In a nutshell
Granger & Co King’s Cross is the latest outpost of Australian celebrity chef Bill Granger’s empire in the new-minted foodie hub of King’s Cross, adding a third London branch after those already established in Clerkenwell and Notting Hill.
Granger’s menus are famously eclectic, bringing flair to the sunny Australian Med/South-east Asian melting-pot.
Breakfast is big at Granger & Co, with daily queues forming for his famous ricotta hotcakes at his original Sydney branches, served here with banana & honeycomb butter (£11.80). Or try the buckwheat bowl, poached egg, kefir goat’s milk, rose harissa, avocado and alfalfa sprouts (£11). The small plates are varied, surprising and excellent – from whipped avocado, tofu and wasabi breakfast radishes, seeded chia and dulse crackers, £7.50, to grilled squid, coriander, green chilli and rocket, £12.50.
You can go more trad with dishes such as parmesan-crumbed chicken schnitzel, creamed corn and fennel slaw (£15), or less so with shrimp burger, jalapeño mayo, shaved radish salad, sesame gochujang (£15). Desserts rock, from the excellent for at least three reasons salted caramel and bitter chocolate pot with bitter thins, £7, to the now-I-know-what-people-mean-when-they-say-a-dish-is-‘witty’ jasmine panna cotta and black sesame crumb (£6.60). It tastes astonishingly like a very creamy cup of tea, and is also utterly delicious.
What we’re going back for
The crispy duck, spring onion crepes, iceberg and plumb sauce, which is like a dream you might have had about what crispy duck pancakes might be like before you’d ever seen any (£16.60).
What’s the room like?
Referencing 80’s Italian train station restaurants.Terrazzo floors and bar tops, olive leather banquettes, a wood-paneled ceiling, 70s table lamps, moody modern art, salmon and peach paintwork, an Italian style leather and brass fixed-stool-seated bar with a huge feature mirror dominating the space behind it.
What’s the service like?
Australian-style seamless and unfussy.
Chicken fat fried (brown) rice – raw vegetables, arame, pickles, chilli fried egg and sprouting seeds. A bright take on bibimbap), £12.50
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