Soho foodie guide
Discover our favourite places to eat in and drink in the buzzy central London neighbourhood, from Taiwanese fine dining to pasta joints and intimate cocktail bars
Here are our favourite Soho restaurants. The best foodie spots include Neil Rankin’s barbecue restaurant Temper, afternoon tea at The Ham Yard Hotel, sticky pork buns at Bao and champagne at the press of a button at Bob Bob Ricard.
Check out our ideas for eating and drinking in Soho from Brewer Street to St Anne's Court, from Old Compton Street to Chinatown (here are the best restaurants in Chinatown).
Here are our top places to eat and drink in Soho...
Yeni, Beak Street — for wood-fired modern Turkish food
With most dishes at Yeni given the funk of fermentation or seasoned with smoke, this is food that’s big on flavour but handled with enough respect to let the quality of the ingredients shine. The open fire kitchen is centre stage in the tall-ceilinged room, start with a G and house-made T (tonic meets kombucha) then it’s all about choosing sharing plates for the table or letting the chef choose for you with a daily changing tasting menu. About half the menu is creatively vegetarian – beetroot is almost sticky from being slow braised in olive oil then punctuated with sour cherries, salty galomizithra cheese and a crunch of hazelnuts. Choose a filling of either beef or dried aubergine for the Turkish manti dumplings which come in a broth made so complex and creamy from using double-fermented yogurt that you’ll be ordering more wood-fired puffy tava bread to mop the bowl clean with. yeni.london
Humble Chicken, Frith Street — for nose-to-tail yakitori and modern cocktails
Humble Chicken’ name gets straight to the point. This intimate Soho restaurant, the first from chef Angelo Sato — ormerly head chef of Michelin-starred Restaurant Story — is all about grilling every part of the bird (from gizzard to thighs) over binchotan charcoal (a high-quality charcoal used in Japanese cooking). Start with a selection of refined snacks, including a delicate, umami miso foie gras tart and creamy freshly made tofu with tangy kimchi, before diving into the yakitori menu with gusto. Skewers — smoky, juicy, delicious — arrive speedily from the open kitchen, with highlights including meatball with salty tare sauce and egg yolk for dipping, rib with spicy miso and chives, and (our favourite) absurdly tender chicken oysters with smoked garlic and ponzu. Larger plates include crispy chicken leg with rice, and save room for dainty desserts such as deconstructed strawberry cheesecake, and purin, a Japanese dessert akin to a creme caramel, and just as delicious.
There’s Asahi on draft and a small selection of sakes, wines and Japanese whiskies, but it’s the cocktails that deserve most attention on the drinks list, including a tangily fruity lychee martini; a silky Nikka whisky, coconut milk and oolong highball, and a sultry miso and coffee old fashioned. humblechickenuk.com
Imad’s Syrian Kitchen, Kingly Court — for Syrian sharing plates
Imad Alarnab’s story is a remarkable one. After spending years as a successful restaurateur in Damascus, his businesses were destroyed by the war, and he was forced to flee the country for safety. Shortly after arriving in London in 2015, he began cooking Syrian food at supper clubs and pop-ups (at which he raised thousands of pounds for refugee charity, Choose Love), before crowdfunding for his own permanent restaurant. Located on the top floor of Soho’s Kingly Court, the restaurant has the feel of a family-run taverna, with white walls accented by bright blue windows and tiles, dotted with heart-warming photographs from Imad’s past. As for Imad’s food, its every bit as uplifting as his story. Every dish we tried from his sharing-style menu of Syrian dishes was a hit, from the super-crisp, perfectly seasoned falafel with lightly pickled, sumac-dusted red onions, to the pool of chickpea-topped hummus with hot, fluffy pittas for dunking. Other highlights include the fattet macdous – a dish of silky soft baby aubergines filled with cumin-spiced minced lamb, served with tahini, crispy pittas, pine nuts, herbs, and juicy pops of pomegranate – and the shish tawook, which combines beautifully tender, charred chicken with homemade paprika crisps, tomato mayo and pitta. imadssyriankitchen.co.uk
Ino, Soho — for playful riffs on classic Greek dishes
INO is the latest opening from the team behind London restaurants OPSO and PITTABUN. Billing itself as a gastrobar, this compact venue has two snug, buzzy counters upstairs and some (slightly) calmer seats below and outside. Take a place at the bar to watch the action at the grill and get instruction on how to swipe a finger of pitta bread through the taramas topped with a slow-cooked egg yolk and bottarga without mixing it first. Like the taramas, the rest of the dishes are modern, playful riffs on classics — ceviche is dressed with avgolemono, souvlaki made from Iberico presa and octopus makes its way into a taco.
Drinks include a mastiha (a mastic liqueur) G&T with a hint of resin, an excellent selection of Greek wines and a range of barrel-aged cocktails. Don’t leave without trying the Greek salad, a juicy mix of tomatoes, olives and capers topped with chunks of 12-month barrel-aged feta. inogastrobar.com
Rudy’s Neapolitan Pizza, Wardour Street — for impeccable pizzas in laidback surroundings
London is no stranger to a good pizza — from Yard Sale to Homeslice, Theo’s, Vicoli dio Napoli and Voodoo Ray’s (and many more), there’s stiff competition for who serves the best slice in town. Rudy’s latest outpost in Soho (they have pizzerias scattered across the north of England, including Manchester, Birmingham, Liverpool and Leeds) makes a worthy addition to the scene.
Start with an aperitivo of Campari and soda, which arrives premixed in a dinky little bottle alongside a bowl of salted crisps for snacking, before moving onto generous sharing platters loaded with deli treats and house-baked bread.
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Pizza toppings are crowd-pleasing, from parmigiana with roasted aubergine to spicy calabrese with ‘nduja sausage and cinghiale with wild boar salami. Our lavishly topped capricciosa with creamy fior de latte, prosciutto, mushrooms, Kalamata olives and artichoke hearts ticked all the boxes, but it was the base that really impressed — well-flavoured and pillowy while still being satisfyingly chewy. All of Rudy’s pizzas — baked daily using 24-hour fermented dough — are made by trained and accredited pizzaiolos and it shows. rudyspizza.co.uk/soho/
Sucre, Great Marlborough Street — for South American classics
There’s a lot to take in at Sucre: huge chandeliers made from glass decanters, a vast open kitchen with chefs cooking over charcoal, a very lively soundtrack and excellent cocktail lounge. But, nothing detracts from the food, centred around ‘fire cooking’. On the snacks and small plates menu, South American classics like empanada (cheesy pasty-shaped pastries) and scallop tiradito (raw) with jalapeño rub along with white beans with morcilla and romesco, and burnt aubergine with lemon and herbs. Monkfish tail cooked on charcoal with a punchy XO sauce and black beans, and veal ossobuco with saffron risotto are the main course highlights, along with black squid fideu (a kind of paella made with skinny pasta instead of rice). The peach and melon pudding sounds simple, but looks spectacular, and the must-try cocktail is the Campari di Spuma, made with Campari, egg white and gin. sucrerestaurant.com
Mr Ji, Old Compton Street — for Taiwanese chicken, small plates and cocktail twists
This small Soho joint is, as it states on the brushed concrete walls, ‘a modern Asian eatery, all about chicken, small eats and cocktails’. Bottles of Taiwanese whisky sit on the minimalist shelves above the counter bar, while hanging plants juxtapose industrial piping at the back. Share a few small plates to start — unusual daikon cake drizzled with confit garlic soy paste, panko-crusted chicken hearts with a mild katsu curry sauce, and a deep-fried prawn toast brick topped with parmesan fluff that melts into a creamy sweetcorn, prawn and bechamel filling. There are four main chicken dishes to choose from, accompanied by fresh and zingy 24-hour fermented golden kimchi. Traditional Taiwanese tapioca-fried chicken breast is served with scissors to cut into manageable pieces as well as piccalilli mayo to offset the chilli heat. Tender chicken nuggets are slathered in a crispy chilli sauce, and silky poached soy chicken is livened up with a ginger and spring onion dip.
Cocktails provide Taiwanese spins on the classics; the refreshing spritz uses homemade grapefruit and hawthorn cordial to add an Aperol-orange hue, mezcal gives the salted plum negroni a smoky edge, and an umami-packed rum, sherry and fermented rice martini is served pre-bottled direct from the freezer. Mrji.co.uk
Korean Dinner Party, Kingly Court —for Korean flavours and sharing snacks
Head to the top of Kingly Court in Soho to discover this this lively opening inspired by Korean flavours and LA’s Mexican food scene, with menus designed by prolific chef duo Ana Gonçalves and Zijun Meng of Tata Eatery, and craft sake from London’ only sake brewery, Peckham’s Kanpai. Inside, expect stripped-back interiors with concrete walls, neon lighting and Korean wall art. An eclectic menu covers everything from Korean corn dogs to tacos and kimchi pancakes. There are larger dishes on offer — go for the Korean tacos with 48-hour slow-cooked beef short rib, ssamjang, slae and homemade wrappers — but it’s the sharing snacks and cocktails that especially impress. Bacon mochi, fudgy chewy rice cakes wrapped in caramelised bacon with gochujang caramel are succulently umami, while ‘chikin’ turns out to be a mound of tender nuggets and rice sticks decadently blanketed in garlic cream and parmesan. The drinks list features fresh twists on classic drinks, such as a plum Americano made with Korean plum wine and Kanpai umeshu. We tried the pleasingly fiery Michelada Boilermaker — spiced Korean beer served with a shot of sake alongside — and the sultry and silky burnt rice old fashioned to finish. koreandinnerparty.com
Dai Chi, D'arblay Street – for kushikatsu skewers and small bites
This unique restaurant in Soho is slick, with comfy leather seats and nods to Japanese ryokan furnishings, such as bonsai, lantern-style lighting, plenty of dark wood and floor-to-ceiling prints of entrances to Japanese izakayas.
Cocktails at the team's original Dalston restaurant Angelina are outstanding, and this spot doesn't disappoint. Choose from highball-style drinks including Shoga Enlightenment with tart yuzu sake and lemongrass syrup, or a salty pear and ginger shrub with smoky mezcal. There's also a tsukemono martini with sake and pickled carrot, and Japanese gin shines in the negroni-style Ponzi Scheme.
The six-course omakase menu is a succession of sublime 'kushikatsu' skewers and small bites. Things kick off with roti tacos topped with tobiko tuna tartare and raw Hamachi tuna with truffle soy. Deep-fried skewers are inventive, including flavours like bitter shiso leaf, black ibérico tomatoes, aged rib-eye steak and king trumpet mushrooms, the latter topped with fresh carabineiro prawns and spicy 'nduja sauce. Other highlights include succulent karaage chicken, butterflied cod and sweet heritage tomatoes doused in 20-year-old balsamic, with matcha panna cotta with a burnt white chocolate crumb to finish. daichi.london
Bar Termini, Old Compton Street – for negronis and espresso
Fifties-style Italian café-bar Bar Termini is known for its pre-bottled negronis, but pop in during the day to sip an espresso at the marble-topped counter or recline on a green-leather banquette with a bicerin espresso, stirred up with thick chocolate and foamed milk. Read our full review of Bar Termini here...
Dishoom, Kingly Street – for Indian food
Breakfasts at Dishoom, the small chain of Bombay-café-inspired restaurants, have won a cult following. Not least for the bacon naan rolls – crisp bacon wrapped in tandoor-charred naan with a dollop of chilli tomato jam and cream cheese. Pair with a breakfast lassi or house chai. Here are our favourite Indian restaurants in London.
Lina Stores deli, Brewer Street – for Italian produce
Pretty Italian deli Lina Stores has been a destination for local foodies since 1944. The mint-tiled corner store is packed with anything from metre-long pasta frills to pretty bottles of passata – perfect for stocking fillers. There’s also a fresh pasta bar and a counter piled high with ’nduja, finocchiona and gorgonzola. Lina Stores has now opened a proper restaurant, review below... Read our full review of Lina Stores here.
Lina Stores restaurant, Greek Street – for pasta
A much-anticipated pasta, antipasti and aperitivi bar from Soho institution Lina Stores, an Italian deli that’s been the go-to for authentic produce since opening in 1944.
The white and mint striped awning makes the new restaurant easily identifiable to regulars at Lina Stores’ original green-tiled corner shop a few streets away. Pops of its signature pastels continue inside – leather bar stools at the ground-floor counter, shelves heaving with Italian liqueurs and produce, and striped aprons on the chefs who slice pink ribbons of prosciutto, plate up antipasti and toss handmade pasta in pans of sauce in the tiny open kitchen. Downstairs is where you’ll find the atmospheric cellar room, where more mint green leather banquettes cling to whitewashed walls and Italian Art Decolamps cast an elegant glow.
Colourful bottles of Campari, Cynar (a bittersweet artichoke leaf liqueur) and Cocchi Americano vermouth that line the shelves behind the counter tempt diners into top-notch aperitivi. Go for a classic punchy negroni (great value at £6, and made with aromatic red vermouth), or venture into a zingy limoncello and thyme spritz or a blood orange bellini spiked with aromatic Fernet Branca liqueur.
Head chef Masha Rener has kept the menu simple and seemingly authentic, with every ingredient hailing directly from Italy – from bright and buttery Cerignola olives right down to the sugar used in exemplary Italian desserts and cakes.
The antipasti menu includes silky aubergine fritters in a crunchy golden shell, crisp radicchio salad with anchovy dressing, and little bowls of almost-too-pretty-to-eat baby artichoke hearts. Start with a porchetta sandwich, served Roman-style, in a crisp ciabatta roll, stuffed with crunchy bites of golden crackling and soft, slow-cooked pork marinated in rosemary and fennel seeds.
Fresh pasta, handmade an hour before service, is given pride of place at Lina Stores, served as the main event rather than traditional pre-main primi. Bright yellow strands of pappardelle soak up light, gamey rabbit ragu, perfectly formed gnocchi is brightened up with popping peas, and a vibrant mint and courgette mixture is stuffed into little tortellini parcels. Pici alla norcina is the highlight, though – springy worms of pasta in a creamy, nutty sauce of porcini mushroom and Norcia sausage (often celebrated as the best in Italy).
Creamy lemon sorbet refreshes after so many comforting carbs, the little half-lemon bowl a nostalgic nod to Italian holidays, and is served with a shot of limoncello to send you merrily on your way.
Street Food Union Market, Rupert Street – for street food
Fuel up on the run at Street Food Union market. We’re particular fans of Slingin Po Boys’ Louisiana-style sub rolls stuffed with blackened shrimp, and the epic roast-dinner-filled Yorkshire pudding wraps from Yorkshire Burrito. streetfoodunion.com
Duck Soup, Dean Street – for date night
For a post-shopping drink or two, head to wine bar and restaurant Duck Soup. It’s pared-back but cosy, and super friendly. Its range of natural and biodynamic wines, served by the glass, changes weekly, as does the short menu of European dishes chalked up on a board. You can even browse the in-house vinyl collection and choose your own soundtrack.
Blacklock, Great Windmill Street – for a chophouse
Go for the ‘all in’ option at cool and casual restaurant Blacklock and you’ll be faced with pre-chop bites (duck rillettes, kimchi, pickle) followed by huge sharing platters of skinny chops (including short rib beef, lamb cutlets and pork loin) plus chargrilled flatbreads to soak up the juices. The £5 cocktails are fab, too.
Swift, Old Compton Street – for cocktails
From the team behind Nightjar and Oriole, Swift is a classy spot that covers all your cocktail needs. Stand at the slick upstairs bar for a pre-theatre aperitivo (we love the refreshing lemon sorbet, prosecco and Italicus sgroppino) or sink into a sofa in the basement for your whisky of choice from an extensive list.
Koya Soho, Frith Street – for noodles
Duck through the curtains at Koya Bar and you’re transported straight to Tokyo. A wooden counter spans the narrow space: punters huddle over bowls of springy udon noodles on one side, while chefs add eggs to breakfast bowls, and slip noodles, prawn tempura, tofu and miso pork into hot broth on the other.
Pleasant Lady, Greek Street – for street food
If you’re after an on-the-go snack between shops on Oxford Street or before a show in the West End, this pretty hole-in-the-wall outfit on Greek Street is where to head. Tucked beside dim sum restaurant Bun House and Tea Room, Pleasant Lady serves a popular Chinese street food staple, jian bing.
These Cantonese crisp multigrain crepes are all about texture, stuffed with tender marinated meat, crunchy daikon pickles, fresh coriander and parsley, fermented bean sauce and a punchy sesame and peanut paste, with homemade crunchy wontons to finish. Choose between Iberico char siu pork, miso chicken, cumin lamb or tofu, and eat your wrap from a brown paper bag amongst the buzz of Soho.
We only wish that there were more of these little takeaways on London’s streets…
Here are some of our other favourite restaurants in Soho...
Robata, Old Compton Street – for Japanese robata grill cooking
Located on Old Compton Street in the heart of Soho, Sonny Huang’s Robata restaurant specialises in robata grill cooking, a Japanese tradition that was first introduced by ancient fishermen who took boxes of hot coals with them on their boats to cook the food that they gathered from their day’s catch. The menu is broken down into five sections – small plates, raw and sushi, bao buns, robata skewers and robata large – and diners are encouraged to share dishes. Stand-out plates include miso aubergine topped with pickled shimiji mushroom and red chilli; sweet soy glaze and spring onion pork belly skewers; and Chilean wagyu smoked and cooked over burning hay. Robata also serves an extensive selection of sake and sake-based cocktails including the Umetini (Roku gin, umeshu plum sake and orange bitters). Head chef Charles Lee worked in a number of Michelin-starred restaurants during his career before arriving at Robata, and his menu shows the diversity of Japan’s food, highlighting traditional cooking techniques and contemporary flavours, along with using high-end British produce.
Berenjak, Romilly Street – for Iranian food
This is a buzzy casual restaurant and tables are a tight squeeze. Out front, the open kitchen spills out its sights, sounds and smells onto the counter diners – there’s a flaming tandoor (oven), mangal barbecue, and vertical rotisserie.
The menu at Berenjak is broken down into mazeh that are designed to be mopped up with house-made flatbreads – either taftoon, seeded sourdough, baked in the clay tandoor, or whole wheat sangak cooked on hot pebbles – kababs and khoresht (stews), and sides, including various pickles, rice and beans. It’s hard not to order everything but we’re reliably informed by our enthused German waitress that jigar (mangal-grilled calves liver) is a good place to start. She was right, as were all her recommendations. Served on soft and blistered lavash bread with mellow sliced red onion, a wedge of lemon to squeeze over, and shredded mint, the offal was burnished, buttery and blushing.
Folie, Golden Square – for business lunches
Folie (translating as madness) brings 70s-inspired French cuisine to a plush Soho setting. Step through the velvet curtain and into the warm surroundings: gold-rimmed tables, beige leather booths and terrazzo-tiled floors. This bijou spot is best suited to boozy business lunches or late-night drinks, so perch at the central curved bar and let waiters in bow ties mix you a cocktail – try the Victoire, a warming concoction of mezcal, pear, lime juice and fiery ginger, or go booze-free with a pineapple and coconut Kerala. Pass on the larger dishes, and instead share a few small plates. Light chickpea sticks come crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, while scallops sprinkled with crumbled hazelnuts get an umami kick from bouncy mushrooms. If you can’t resist a dessert, be swayed by the chocolate mousse with smooth caramel centre and nutty buckwheat ice cream on the side.
Ikoyi, St James’s Market – for fine dining
At Ikoyi, Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan are on a mission to give the flavours and ingredients of West Africa a slick, fine-dining polish. The Manx Loaghton rib is probably the best lamb I’ve ever eaten, with a rich, deeply savoury flavour that’s perfectly balanced by a fiery chilli and pepper relish. The jollof rice was lick-your-plate-clean delicious, the smoked bone marrow meatily perfuming the air around us.
KILN, Brewer Street – for Thai food
Ben Chapman’s latest outpost has all the ingredients for yet another frustratingly brilliant Soho restaurant – small, no-reservation policy, sterling reviews. But, it’s worth any queue. Grab a spot at the pass, where the flames of the charcoal fires will keep you as warm as the spices from the confidently succinct, regional Thai menu. As well as delivering on atmosphere, Kiln actually offers the lesser-known and ever rarer phenomenon of good value in London. Aged lamb skewers, delicately fragrant with cumin and Szechuan pepper and cranked-up in flavour with the lick of those flames, are £2.90 for two. A delicious main of clay-pot baked glass noodles with Tamworth pork belly and brown crabmeat, which comes with an intense, zingy herb dip on the side, is only £5.75.
We’re warned about the heat of the roasted long pepper and Tamworth pork shoulder curry but its tingle was just the right side of numbing, mellow and spicy sweet. Wild mushroom salad seasoned with soy and lime, inspired by the region of Isaan, in the northeast of Thailand, was precisely the sort of plate that the term umami was coined for. One of the top openings of the year.
Hoppers, Frith Street – for Sri Lankan dishes
Named after the lacy, bowl-shaped pancakes that are a staple of Sri Lanka, Hoppers has quickly established itself as one of London’s hippest hangouts. From the can-do-no-wrong team behind Michelin-starred Gymkhana, Hoppers references the food of southern India and Sri Lanka. There’s a succinct menu starring traditional hoppers: light fermented rice and lentil pancake bowls, with a softly steamed egg and a selection of confidently spiced karis.
Load up on the ‘short eats’, though. Mutton rolls are like crunchy cigars – with a golden crumb, shredded gamey meat and lightly spiced tomato chutney. Bone marrow is so seductively sauced that you would be forgiven for refusing to share. The best, perhaps, are buttered devilled shrimps: juicy and fiery. There a fab and refreshing cocktails also.
Bao, Lexington Street – for Taiwanese buns
Bao began life as a tiny bar in Hackney, selling pillowy soft ‘baos’ (steamed milk buns) stuffed with various fillings. Following its success, the team opened a restaurant in Soho. Husband and wife team, Shing Tat Chung and Erchen Chang, alongside Shing’s sister Wai Ting Chung are behind the venture, and it was the trio’s travels across Asia that inspired the menu.Their signature bao take centre stage – try classic braised pork and panko-crumbed daikon radish bao – but there’s also xiao chi (small eats) on offer. As for drinks, expect hot oolong and cold foam tea, plus cider, sake and whisky. It’s a cosy space with shelves lined with homemade pickles – including golden kimchi.
Temper, Broadwick Street – for BBQ
Blink and you’ll miss Neil Rankin’s new barbecue restaurant in London’s Soho. From ground level it looks like just another wine bar, but head underground and it’s a dark den of mezcal, smoke, meat and, er, Pickled Onion Monster Munch.
Temper is cavernous, with booths and tables filling every corner, but if you want a piece of the real action, grab a counter seat around the open kitchen where tacos are hand-pressed, flatbreads are blistered, and whole animals are butchered and roasted over glowing coals. It’s not for the squeamish but this waste-little, love-food attitude did it for us. (As did the surprisingly ergonomic bar stools and Irn Bru spritzes and mezcal negronis).
Ember Yard, Berwick Street – for Mediterranean small plates
Part of the Salt Yard Group, Ember Yard in Soho serves Italian- and Spanish-inspired tapas and small plates using a bespoke, Basque-style grill and sustainable charcoal and wood from Kent, which gives a distinctive taste to dishes such as chargrilled Iberico presa with whipped jamon butter, and grilled octopus with broad beans, preserved lemon, pea and mint purée.
Head chef Brett Barnes says: “The char and the smoke working in unison are a magical combination that appeals to our most basic instincts.”. saltyardgroup.co.uk
Baozilnn, Romilly Street – for Chinese food
Baozilnn takes it culinary cues from all corners of China, from a roster of hearty northern street-food dishes to dim sum with Sichuanese and Hunanese accents. Set over three floors, kitschy Mao-era propaganda posters adorn black walls, and diners sit on red leather chairs and benches. Service is brisk and efficient.
Expect plenty of jiaozi (dumplings) on the menu, served plain, slathered with chilli sauce or floating in a broth, as well as lots of dim sum and grilled dishes, from meat and fish skewers to sea bream in XO sauce and red-braised pork.
Head chef Francis Law is a dim sum expert and this part of our meal proved to be the highlight. Watercress prawn dumplings – the pastry tinged bright yellow with turmeric – were delicately made, the peppery watercress matching the subtle astringency of the turmeric. Beetroot and prawn dumplings, prettily pink, were also well balanced, the earthiness of the vegetable a faint back note that didn’t overwhelm the crustacean. Our favourite, though, was a fat, pork-filled bao zi lurking in its own lake of spicy, deeply savoury hot and sour broth. Chengdu dumplings were impeccable, silky and generously drizzled in chilli oil, while our skewers – cumin lamb and grilled king prawn – could have been a little more tender. Dan dan noodles lacked the requisite fiery heat.
There’s a quirky choice of beers on the menu (from Belgian to Chinese), a globe-trotting selection of wines and a selection of baijius, rice wines and sakes.
Pastaio, Ganton Street – for pasta
Chef Stevie Parle’s latest venture brings handmade pasta and affordable wines to Soho. The agnoli was a triumph of pared-back cooking; perfectly cooked and crafted pasta, a generous game filling and a seriously moreish sage-butter sauce.
Cecconi’s Pizza Bar, Old Compton Street – for pizza
From the team behind Soho House, Cecconi’s Pizza Bar focuses on pizza, pasta and Aperol spritz on tap. Vintage Italian posters, black and white mosaic tiles and mahogany tables give the space a retro feel. In the summer, grab a seat on the street and spend the evening sipping on punchy negronis.
The super doughy charred crust has a slightly smoky flavour, while the sloppy base is piled high with toppings. Either keep it classic with buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil, or choose one topped lavishly with parma ham, peppery rocket, mozzarella, parmesan and meltingly creamy burrata – torn apart then drizzled with olive oil. If you fancy something a little lighter, go for a pizzette instead.
Crisp matchsticks of zucchini fritti with silky aioli (lifted with lemon) is the best place to start. While pizza is the focus, be sure to share a bowl of creamy spaghetti dusted with shavings of umami truffle. If you’ve saved room for dessert, the tiramisu is a must. Waiters bring large dishes to the table and serve the rich coffee-soaked dessert straight up.
The Good Egg, Kingly Court – for brunch
After the success of their first site in Stoke Newington, The Good Egg crowd-funded to their second site in Soho’s Kingly Court. This café-cum-restaurant, inspired by the Jewish café-culture of Montreal, serves all-day brunch Monday to Sunday. Take a seat on one of the dark-teal wooden chairs and watch chefs at work behind the metal counter. Walls are covered in jars of pickles and bottles of wine and blackboards list names of the meat, fish and veg producers that feature on the menu.
Pizza Pilgrims, Kingly Court – for pizza
With its green and white chequered plastic table cloths, silver napkin holders and framed film posters hanging on the walls, Pizza Pilgrims feels like an American diner meets Italian pizzeria. If you can’t get a table, grab a pizza to takeaway and eat in Soho Square.
The Naples-style pizza with blistering crust and sloppy centre is proved slowly then cooked fast. Order the aubergine parmigiana with fior di latte, basil, plum tomatoes and roast aubergine if you fancy something indulgent, or take it back to basics with the marinara, topped simply with oregano, garlic and basil. Satisfy your sweet tooth with a vanilla ice cream, olive oil and sea salt option for dessert.
Kricket, Denman Street – for Indian small plates
Contemporary and cool, Kricket specialises in Indian small plates using local vegetables along with fish and meat sourced within the British Isles. Expect to queue at these no-reservations restaurants but dishes like samphire pakoras and Keralan fried chicken are more than worth the wait.
We have the recipe for Kricket's kichri. Kedgeree as we know it was an adaptation of the original recipe for kichri, which consists of rice and lentils. You can use poached eggs rather than raw egg yolks, if you like.
Bob Bob Ricard, Upper James Street – for an impressive dinner
Bob Bob Ricard is a Russian-inspired restaurant in Soho that exudes luxury, with ornate interiors loosely based on the Orient Express (train-carriage style booths, brass rails and coat racks), slick service and iconic ‘press for Champagne’ buttons. It’s all about excess, with hearty portions, theatrical presentation and copious amounts of fizz.
The menu focuses on English classics, with Russian influences highlighted in pink (think plenty of truffle, vodka and caviar). If there’s any way to begin a Russian-inspired meal, it’s with a shot of -18 degree vodka. Served in a tiny goblet made from cut glass, this shot has the purpose of cleansing your palate and opening up the taste buds before beginning your meal.
To start, a round of oysters baked with parmesan and black truffle, or traditional truffled potato dumplings served with crispy onions and firm and springy and nutty shimeji mushrooms. Beetroot and goat’s cheese gateau was a stunning little stack of layered golden and deep purple beetroot and thick, creamy goat’s cheese, sprinkled with pea shoots and crunchy pecans.
Popular mains include hearty dishes such as chicken kiev and rich puff-pastry-topped fish pie with chunky pieces of smoked haddock, sole and cod. We ordered the beef wellington, which was presented to us as a latticed pastry sphere before being taken away and carved into thick slices. Perfectly pink 28-day aged Scotch beef fillet was wrapped in a layer of finely chopped porcini mushrooms and a thin pancake to soak up the juices with a golden crisp pastry case. A spoonful of silky truffled mash on the side made this particularly lavish.
‘Chocolate Glory’ was an instagram-worthy dessert. Hot chocolate sauce was poured over a gold sphere that opened up to reveal a soft chocolate Jivara mousse with brownie pieces, zingy berries and passion fruit and orange jelly. If you’re too full for all that chocolate, order the zesty trio of lime, lemon and pink grapefruit sorbets served with Platinum vodka.
Click here for our expert guide on where to get the best beef wellington in London
Ham Yard Hotel, Ham Yard – for afternoon tea
We review afternoon tea at Ham Yard Hotel, Soho. Expect statement artwork and decor from designer and co-owner Kit Kemp and whacky twists on sweet savoury tea treats.
Ham Yard Hotel’s ethos matches its bold name; expect bags of character, typical of all Firmdale Hotels, from co-owner Kit Kemp’s bright and colourful interiors, with patterned textiles, unique finds such as reclaimed African prints and plenty of original artwork.
L’escargot, Greek Street – for a Soho institution
L’escargot was big news in the 80s and is somewhat of a Soho institution but it’s sparkle faded over the years. Now, after a refurb and with a new brunch menu, it’s worth putting on your radar once again. The 280-year-old town house is also a member’s club, and it shows in this room: dark wood and comfortable, red velvet-covered chairs, it hasn’t lost the French bistro charm.
The best Soho hotels
Kettner’s first opened on Romilly Street, in Piccadilly, in 1867. It was one of London’s first French brasseries, and has survived a lot of history over the years, staying open during both world wars and welcoming the likes of Oscar Wilde, Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie. In its latest incarnation the design-focused Soho House Group has bought and spruced up this Georgian building, playing on its 1920s heyday in opening an all-day French brasserie, Champagne bar and 33 glamorous hotel rooms.
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