Best known for its homemade vermouth and superb squid ink gnocchi, Mele e Pere on Brewer Street has launched into the unknown with its first breakfast menu. It’s served on the ground floor, quite apart from the dining room downstairs, in a warm and cosy space decorated with gnarled wooden tables and a wall-to-wall display cabinet of beautiful Murano glass apples and pears.
It’s a relaxing place to be, sat on a comfy bar stool with a view of bustling Soho streets outside. Inside it’s quiet and calm – you’ll only hear the espresso machine, and maybe some soft Belle & Sebastian albums playing in the background. Start the day with a freshly squeezed orange juice and coffee from The Terrone Coffee Company – an olive favourite.
The menu is appropriately Italian, and primarily sweet. Chocolate brioche was fine, but not a patch on the delicate crumble of the jam biscotto (think melting moments). Try and get there early, because Mele e Pere only bake their pastries once a day – they were already out of custard cream bombolones by the time of our 9:30am sitting. Plenty of little smoked salmon buns left though; garlicky cream cheese and soft salmon in a sweet brioche bun.
But the star of the show, and a bargain at £5, has to be the full breakfast boccone: gamey, rich sausage (homemade), smoked pancetta, free range egg, crisp mushrooms and house relish on chewy sourdough. Despite the mammoth filling, it’s beautifully presented – a work of art, with impossibly neat layers and not a dollop of relish out of place. It’s that tangy, homemade relish that takes this breakfast sandwich into 5/5 territory, lifting it to a much more mature and savoury bite than your usual breakfast bap.
Be prepared to wait if you order the full breakfast boccone – it takes 10 minutes or so to create. But you could always spend that time nibbling on another jam biscotto, like we did…
By Charlotte Morgan
Top image taken by Giulia Mulè, mondomulia.com
Address: 46 Brewer Street, Soho, London W1F 9TF
Breakfast served from 8:30am – midday, Monday to Saturday
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