South Pigalle, Paris foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
Check out author of the Wallpaper* City Guide Paris Sophie Dening's guide to Paris' once overlooked SoPi neighbourhood. A must-visit for its artisan patisseries, hip bistros and stellar cheese shops
Looking for restaurants near Pigalle Paris? Check out our list of the best places to eat and drink in South Pigalle. This area south of Place Pigalle in the 9th arrondissement is known by Parisians as SoPi, and is where local foodies head for modern bistros, cool cocktail bars and a super trendy hotel...
Le Pantruche – best modern bistro in Pigalle
Although it opened in 2011, Le Pantruche feels old-school. Slide onto a banquette, unfurl a white napkin, and eat deftly executed classics such as braised ris de veau (sweetbreads), scallops with cauliflower purée, or roast sucking pig with pear, celery and chestnut, followed by Grand Marnier soufflé or cheese from dairy royalty Pascal Beillevaire. The team’s stablemate, nearby Caillebotte, is equally admirable. facebook.com/LePantruche
Le Dépanneur – best burgers in Pigalle
Trendy and fun, Le Dépanneur might seem anathema to “real Paris”, with its Brooklyn beer, milkshakes and cheesecake, but young locals love this neighbourhood diner. It’s more Mex than Tex, with cacti adorning tables and a menu featuring ceviche, guacamole and tacos, as well as gourmet burgers: go for a ‘dude’, with bacon, beaufort (Alpine cheese), grilled peppers and caramelised onions. ledepanneurpigalle.com
Sébastien Gaudard – best patisserie in Pigalle
Pretty vitrines of cakes, chocolate and confectionery in Sébastien Gaudard’s Rue des Martyrs boutique give grown-ups a cinematic kid-in-a-candy-store treat. Indulge in a caramelised choux bun or a rum baba, or take home a jar of crème de marrons (chestnut cream) or a packet of candied fruits. sebastiengaudard.com
Grand Hotel Pigalle – best Italian restaurant in Pigalle
The menu at the new Grand Hotel Pigalle (the first hotel project from the folk behind Experimental Cocktail Club) gives fans of Giovanni Passerini, formerly
at Rino in the 12th, a chance to revisit his ethereal pasta. Start with fiore sardo hard cheese with sautéed escarole, then try a seasonal take on gnudi or ravioli, and finish with proper cannoli. grandpigalle.com
Ito Izakaya – best Japanese in Pigalle
A favourite among young chefs and restaurateurs (it’s open late), Ito Izakaya is hung with glamorous vintage geisha prints and paper lanterns. Book ahead for inventive small plates, and sake by the carafe, and go in a gang so you can try everything: wakame salad with fried anchovies; curried monkfish; ox cheek croquette; risotto with kombu dashi. itoeats.fr
KB Café Shop – best coffee shop in Pigalle
When you wake up and smell decent coffee in Paris, there’s often an Antipodean influence. Set up by a Frenchman ‘pining’ after a spell in Sydney, KB Café Shop (the KB is for ‘kooka boora’) is a cheery, laptop-friendly space where the carrot cake is homemade and the beans are roasted on site. kbcafeshop.com
Crémerie Rochechouart – best cheese shop in Pigalle
On the eastern slopes of South Pigalle, Crémerie Rochechouart is an old-fashioned encyclopaedia of a cheese shop, stocking pretty much every style, from obvious to obscure. Pick up some comté (young and nutty or the ultra umami 24-month aged version), or the highly transportable vieille mimolette. la-ferme-saint-hubert-de-paris.com
Causses – best deli in Pigalle
When Causses opened in SoPi in 2012 (there are sibling stores in the Marais and Les Halles) it won local gourmets over instantly – no small feat. It’s a stylish-looking slow food deli selling every sort of well-sourced premium comestible, from Alpine honey and Limousin yogurts to jambon de Paris and caillettes (faggots). causses.org
Hôtel Amour – best brunch in Pigalle
Comfort food and low-key, arty decor means the restaurant at Hôtel Amour attracts a cool, sometimes starry crowd. The €21 vegetarian brunch includes salad of carrot, orange and passion fruit, tandoori avocado, and pumpkin velouté. Or, go à la carte with eggs benedict, steak tartare or chicken and chips. hotelamourparis.fr
Artisan – best cocktails in Pigalle
Never mind Artisan’s slightly exasperating name, just enjoy its gimmick-free, friendly vibe, deftly made cocktails and superb small plates. Try a Rhubarbe, made with rhubarb-infused vodka, grapefruit juice, Peychaud’s bitters, absinthe and elderflower cordial, and a plate of pork belly with bourbon, ginger and szechuan pepper. artisan-bar.fr
Where to stay in South Pigalle, Paris
Charmingly wonky, with an intriguing jigsaw of room shapes, and super chic, thanks to Dorothée Meilichzon’s textile-led design, Hôtel Panache occupies a wedge-shaped corner of the 9th arrondissement.
Spread over seven higgledy-piggledly floors, the hotel’s 40 bedrooms share certain features, such as fancy filament pendant lights, tiled bathrooms, and lots of fabric and colour toning (blues or pinks, depending on the floor). Some individual rooms are decorated with striking wallpaper or metallics, and a few have tiny balconies – not to be sniffed at in summer.
Your everyday breakfast spread (not included in the room rate: it’s €18 extra) is an enjoyable offering of viennoiseries, thick yoghurt, hams, cheeses and dried figs, apricots and almonds. We loved the seasonal fruit juices from Provençal producers Kookabarra. At weekends, the popular brunch menu runs from Iberian charcuterie and scrambled eggs to an excellent club sandwich or fish n’ chips, via granola and maple syrup crêpes.
Julie and Adrien are delighted to see Panache bistro becoming a hit in its own right. At lunch (from €24 for two courses) ex-Racines chef Paul Landre tweaks classic ideas, serving onion soup with Mont d’Or cream, or plaice with endives and popcorn. At dinner, dishes such as octopus with chickpeas and sauce diable, and suckling pig with artichoke, parsley root and pickles, are ingredient-led, accomplished yet not over-fussy. Locals are keen, so there’s always a good buzz.
How to get to South Pigalle, Paris
Return fares from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord start at £58 (eurostar.com).