Looking for a wine bar in Bristol? Read our review of Marmo, and check out more places to eat and drink in Bristol here.
Marmo in a nutshell
An owner-run, casual restaurant and wine bar in the heart of Bristol offering a bargain selection of seasonal dishes celebrating the South West larder.
There’s a husband-and-wife duo behind Marmo – Cosmo and Lily – who met at uni, in Bristol. Chef Cosmo trained at St John and has worked at Magdalen, Brawn, Yard in Paris and Rubedo in Stoke Newington, before returning to the South West to run the kitchen of Bosco in Clifton.
What’s the vibe?
Fans of Bar Buvette – the space’s previous incarnation – will notice a lighter and brighter décor. With a mosaic beneath your feet as you enter, there’s herringbone hardwood floors, cream wood panelling on the walls framed by vino-inspired prints, vast windows and an open-plan kitchen and bar.
What’s the food like at Marmo?
With such a short menu that’s so well priced – three courses at lunch for as little as £17 [November 2019] – the team at Marmo have made life easier by removing the need for decision making. Simply order it all.
Mussels arrive soft, plump and drunk on West Country nectar (aka cider), their liquor moreishly sweet, saline and mellow from tender shredded leek. Delica pumpkin (so favoured by chefs thanks to its concentrated pumpkin flavour) sings of the season, parcelled up in ravioli, bathed in sage-scented butter, and topped with toasted walnuts. Pork collar, with smashed chickpeas, chard, raisins and pine nuts, is a last-minute substitution for pork belly – Cosmo orders in a whole pig at the start of the week, working his way through the animal with each menu iteration – but doesn’t suffer for it, achieving a golden crust and a blushing, juicy heart.
And the drinks?
With Luca, Six Portland Road and Bar Buvette under her belt, former lawyer Lily knows what a good wine list looks like. There’s a strong choice by glass and carafe, as well as bottle – and if you want anything to take away there’s another bargain 30% off the list price. Bodegas Vinessens Benimaquia Tinajas from Alicante is an amber, organic blend of moscatel and merseguera that stands up to the seafood and ravioli, as well as, even, featherlight gnocchi with a rich, earthy venison ragu.
The restaurant is dog friendly so if your pooch is well behaved, bring them along to share in the joy!
Marmo, 31 Baldwin Street, Bristol BS1 1RG
Words by Laura Rowe
Photos by Ed Schofield