Bulrush restaurant review
Bristol’s been quietly flexing its culinary muscle in the South-west for decades, but in the last five years the scene has been transformed. And some of the newest kids on the block, George Livesey and partner Katherine Craughwell of Bulrush, are at the forefront of this change.
The modern British restaurant opened in the Cotham area of the city late last year and has quickly made an impression on locals thanks to the clever cooking, interesting techniques (they’re big fans of fermentation) and bold flavour pairings from 30-year-old chef George. Originally from the Peak District, George has worked at St. John, for Dan Cox (executive chef of Fera at Claridge’s), and White Rabbit in Dalston before deciding to head West.
His menus champion the produce of the region, including all the foraged ingredients he can get his hands on (from fiddlehead ferns and pine, to juniper and sea kale). Order off the good-value tasting menus – £45 for nine courses, while set lunch menus start at £15 for three courses. With personable and passionate service, a cracking cocktail menu that complements the food, and sterling cooking coming out of the tiny kitchen, George and his team are giving well—established names on the Bristol food and drink scene a run for their money.
Bulrush dinner party menu
George’s recipe for elderflower-cured mackerel with tomato consommé makes an easy but impressive starter.
This recipe for BBQ pork with almond purée and pickled peaches makes a show-stopping main. The dish was inspired by an Ancient Roman cookery book but is great as a summer BBQ dish.
George’s dessert recipe for jasmine set custard with strawberry sorbet is a bit of a challenge, but a great summer dish, and the hard work will pay off.