Hawksmoor, Edinburgh: restaurant review

Renowned steak restaurant, Hawksmoor has thrown open its doors in Scotland’s capital city in a Grade-A listed building. The former banking hall, which has been closed off to the public for decades, has been refurbished to celebrate the building’s original features.

What’s the vibe?

Expect spectacular, original art deco interiors – vintage furniture, light fittings and ironmongery have been sourced from all over the world in order to create an incredible dining room.

What's the food like at Hawksmoor, Edinburgh?

Like all Hawksmoors before it (there are several in London and Manchester) the kitchen team source the finest ingredients and produce they can. Here, of course, they make the most of Scotland’s impeccably rich larder. Seafood comes from around the Scottish coast and beef from grass-fed native breed cattle, both north and south of the border. There are much smaller suppliers reflected on the menu, too, including sourdough (discover our guide to making sourdough) from a local Edinburgh bakery.

Hawksmoor classics such as hand-dived scallops roasted with white port and garlic are succulent and sweet, and half a native lobster simply grilled with garlic butter is mouthwateringly good. Respect for ingredients is apparent, the kitchen team don’t overcomplicate anything, they don’t need to.

There’s an abundance of steak, naturally, and front of house are well informed as to the provenance of the cattle. The chateaubriand was unbelievably good – you’d be hard pushed to find anything quite as delicious elsewhere in the city. Sides of Doddington (Northumbrian cheese) caesar salad and buttered greens are a perfect light accompaniment. Triple-cooked chips are good, but leave room for dessert instead.

A gargantuan chocolate and hazelnut dessert is more than enough for three, aptly named the ‘Ambassador’s reception’, it’s a serious undertaking (we have the recipe for Ambassador's reception here to make at home). A lighter dish of Scottish raspberries, homemade hobnob and crème fraîche is a perfect finisher and there’s a great selection of ice creams or Scottish cheeses, too.

And the drinks?

A great cocktail list will start your dining experience off well, and the wine list is huge but does cover all budgets. There are local beers, plenty of softs and, if you’re doing this in style, there’s a magnum list too!

olive tip: With ingredients this good expect a bill to match. However, an express lunch menu or early evening dinner gets you the same produce, cooked by the same kitchen team for a fraction of the price.

Hawksmoor Edinburgh

23 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA

Words by Hilary Sturzaker