Olive Magazine

A Wanted Man, King's Road: breakfast review

Published: April 22, 2016 at 12:09 pm
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Check out our restaurant review of breakfast at A Wanted Man on the King's Road in Chelsea, London, for surprising twists on classic breakfast dishes

It’s not often that we’re surprised by a menu. We spend so much time talking about food and visiting restaurants that it takes something really special to get us excited. This is particularly true of breakfast; there is only so much bircher muesli or avocado toast you can eat. So, when we visited A Wanted Man, a new opening on the King’s Road, Chelsea, we have to admit that we didn’t have high expectations but they were quickly trounced.


A Wanted Man opened quietly in mid-April. Part of the Spa Esprit group that has 17 food and beauty outlets across 9 cities worldwide, this new space has a Browhaus and Ministry of Waxing upstairs, but it’s downstairs that you’ll want to focus on. There’s a loose Wild West theme with the decor; think brightly-coloured patterned upholstery and a hand-painted mural across the bar, but there are no cowboys in the kitchen.

The team is made up of two Michel Bras-trained chefs, Benjamin Darnaud and Vincent Dery and they’re serving up a innovative all-day menu that is health-focussed without being worthy. We stopped in for breakfast, and while there are dishes you might recognise (waffles, avocado and eggs), they’ve all been given a clever twist that makes the menu feel fresh and exciting.

Order a coffee made from Singapore-based Common Man Coffee Roasters or freshly pressed green juice while you try to pick between a fresh, zingy grapefruit salad with pistachios, macadamias and light elderflower syrup, or half an avocado with a softly-poached egg, balsamic, radishes, kale and a deep umami hit from bonito flakes so fine they look like they’re dancing as they arrive at the table.

If you're looking for something a bit more comforting, go for the waffle machine-toasted croissant sandwich filled with Iberico chorizo spread and tangy pickled cucumbers.

The absolute must-order, though, is the divine crisp, light sourdough waffles topped with salted peanut butter, blueberry jam and roast pecans that takes a classic flavour combination and makes it new again. Using sourdough for the waffles means that you don't get the heavy, doughy texture of some waffles, so you can enjoy the bold, comforting flavours without feeling weighed down for the rest of the morning.

A Wanted Man is a real example of why you shouldn't pre-judge: there is truly exciting food coming out of this little kitchen and it’s well worth stopping in.

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