The Fishmarket, Newhaven, Edinburgh: restaurant review
Read our review of this fish restaurant in Newhaven, Edinburgh for fish, seafood and local beer and wine
The Fishmarket in a nutshell
The Fishmarket, a modern seaside-eating house, has been created by two stalwarts of the Edinburgh seafood scene – Gary Welch, owner of Welch Fishmongers, and Roy Brett, chef patron of renowned fish restaurant Ondine.
What’s the vibe?
The Fishmarket shouts "seaside" inside and out. It’s based in the old fishmarket in Newhaven which dates back to 1896 and was previously a filleting unit for Welch’s Fishmongers next door. It’s been transformed in to a takeaway chippie and a sit-down restaurant with white-tiled walls, an unrivalled view of the sea and front-of-house staff wearing breton t-shirts.
What's the food like?
At the takeaway, traditional battered, breaded or grilled fish comes in standard, large or ‘whale’ size. There’s haddock, cod, sole or a choice of crispy squid, scampi or monkfish. Classic sides of mushy peas, tartare sauce and buttered bread rolls and there’s even ‘wee haddie’ for the kids. Batter is light and crispy and the fish melts in the mouth.
Dine in and opt for classics from the takeaway or explore a slightly larger menu, which includes plenty of sustainably sourced shellfish. Loch Fyne oysters, Newhaven dressed brown crab and lobster from Dunbar, East Lothian. There’s squid, crab claws and monkfish from Peterhead, Aberdeenshire and scampi from Scrabster, Caithness.
Isle of Skye langoustine are served simply with a garlic butter – there’s no need to do more when the ingredients are this good. Crispy squid is battered with the fish-shop batter, it’s tender and served with an umami-packed Vietnamese-style dipping sauce. A ‘whale’ portion of fish lives up to its moniker, and the accompanying chips are plentiful, with great texture. Desserts include lemon posset, chocolate pots and ice cream.
And the drinks?
A concise wine list includes some crispy dry whites to accompany your fish, and a couple of lighter reds, too. There are local beers, ciders and soft drinks. And if you’re having oysters there’s always champagne, of course.
olive tip: You really can’t beat eating fish and chips sat at the harbour watching the sun go down. If the weather is fine, grab a takeaway, find a bench, take in the view and enjoy the fresh sea air.
The Fishmarket address: 23A Pier Place, Newhaven, Edinburgh, EH6 4LP
Written by Hilary Sturzaker
Photographs by Jessica Shurte Photography