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To start the tartare sauce, whizz the egg yolk, mustard and lemon in a jug or tall container using a stick blender. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil, a little at a time, and continue blending until the mixture starts to emulsify. When all the oil has been added, fold in the brown crabmeat and check for seasoning, adding a little more lemon juice, salt and pepper or a dash of water if the mayonnaise is too thick. Cover and chill.
Cook the potatoes in a pan of boiling water until very tender, then drain and leave to steam-dry. Push through a ricer if you have one, or use a sieve to remove any small lumps. Tip the mash into a bowl with the spring onions, white crabmeat, cayenne and lemon zest. Season well and fold in 2 tbsp of the mayonnaise mixture. Stir briefly until just combined, then mould into eight crab cakes. Put on a baking tray lined with baking paper. Chill for 30 minutes until firm.
Put the flour, eggs and breadcrumbs in three separate bowls. Fold the remaining ingredients for the tartare sauce into the remaining mayonnaise mixture.
Once the crab cakes are firm, lightly dust in the flour, then dip into the egg and coat in the breadcrumbs. Heat a 1⁄2cm depth of oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and fry the crab cakes for 4-5 minutes on each side or until golden, crisp and piping hot. Serve with the tartare sauce and watercress.