Make these impressive cod's roe choux bites, then check out our giant champagne and lemon prawn vol-au-vents, salmon tartare with lemon and capers and more exciting starter recipes.

After moving to London and starting a series of supper clubs around Tottenham, Genevieve Sparrow has ventured into a bricks and mortar business with food led by head chef Pip MacDonald. As a morning-to-night venture, Pasero serves coffee and pastries, breakfasts, lunchtime sandwiches and small plates with wine in the evenings, as well as a deli shop to pick up fresh local bread and high-quality charcuterie, among other things. The menu changes with the seasons but keeps an overall focus on European cuisine, celebrating the flavours across the continent.



  • 60g unsalted butter
  • 90g plain flour
  • 2 eggs


  • 150ml red wine vinegar
  • 150g caster sugar
  • ½ tsp black peppercorns
  • ½ tsp yellow mustard seeds
  • ¼ tsp juniper berries
  • ¼ tsp coriander seeds
  • 1 small red onion, thinly sliced


  • 125g smoked cod roe, peeled
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed
  • ½ tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 100ml grapeseed oil
  • dill, to garnish


  • STEP 1

    Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. In a large pan, mix the butter with 115ml of water and bring to a simmer over a medium heat. Once the butter has melted, add the flour along with 1/2 tsp salt and mix together, stirring continuously, until it starts to come away from the sides of the pan. Remove from the heat and transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the paddle attachment, beat for 1 min on a medium speed to gently cool before adding the eggs one at a time, scraping down the side of the bowl every so often until it’s a thick, pipeable consistency. Leave to cool completely before transferring to a piping bag. Line two baking trays with baking paper and pipe on 4cm blobs, using a wet fingertip to pat down any tips, as these will burn. Transfer to the oven and bake for 25 mins until risen and golden, being sure to not open the door. Remove from the oven, slash the side of each choux bun and return to the oven for 5 mins. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

  • STEP 2

    Meanwhile, put all the pickled red onion ingredients – except the onions – with 150ml water in a medium pan. Bring to a gentle boil then remove from heat and immediately add the sliced red onion. Leave to cool before transferring to a container and chilling.

  • STEP 3

    Put all the ingredients for the smoked cod’s roe mousse, except for the oil, into a blender and blend until completely smooth – if it’s struggling in the blender, add a splash of water. Very slowly feed in the oil with the motor still going until creamy.

  • STEP 4

    Put the mousse into a piping bag. To fill the choux, insert the tip of the piping bag into the slash of each bun and begin piping carefully, with steady pressure, until filled. Arrange on a platter and top each choux with a little more mousse. Scatter over the onions, some of the dill and serve.

Discover more starter recipes

A plate of olives coated in golden breadcrumbs with fresh herbs

Goes well with


Comments, questions and tips

Rate this recipe

What is your star rating out of 5?

Choose the type of message you'd like to post

Choose the type of message you'd like to post

Overall rating