FOOD TREND: NEW-WAVE SARNIES
Yes, we’ve all grown a soft spot for so-called ‘real bread’ over the past few years, but it seems that we can’t quite shift our affection for the cheap, white and sliced stuff. Especially when it comes sandwiching something crisp and deep-fried.
The katsu sando – the Japanese sarnie – traditionally features crustless white bread, breaded pork, tonkatsu sauce (think sweet brown sauce) and shredded white cabbage. But nowadays we are seeing different interpretations popping up across the capital, and beyond. Eagle-eyed readers might have spotted the recipe for sardine katsu sandwich here by Two Lights in Shoreditch (read our restaurant review here), and elsewhere we’ve seen a celeriac schnitzel sandwich in Brick House bakery in Dulwich, and olive favourite Tim Anderson’s Brixton katsu hatch, Nanban Express, serves up sliced white and brown bread stuffed with pork and cabbage, chicken thigh with curry mayo and pickled ginger, and aubergine with honey miso mayo.
Here, we’ve gone veggie – using every inch of the seasonal celeriac (check out our best celeriac recipes here) for the fried steak and crunchy fresh slaw.