Kouzu makes a stunning first impression being housed in a Grade II-listed building, a grand entrance into its ground floor restaurant and cocktail bar. On the mezzanine level there’s an omaskase (‘let the chef decide for you’) sushi bar.
Stunning light fittings give the room a glamorous air. The food easily matches the surroundings with an all Japanese brigade led by ex-Zuma chef Kyoichi Kai. The classics are done expertly, so sashimi, tempura, sushi and grilled yakatori chicken, lamb chops and wagyu are all beautifully presented. There are also some surprises: like French ravigote sauce with salmon yuzu dressing and Portobello mushroom with madeira sauce. (kouzu.co.uk/restaurant)
Bullseye: Sliced yellowtail, shiso, myoga, ginger, spring onion, ponzu truffle dressing.
Misfire: It’s a big space so, unless it’s full, can feel a little lacking in atmosphere.