Olive Magazine

Kouzu, London: quick restaurant review

Published: February 11, 2015 at 3:42 pm
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A quick review of Kouzu, an elegant London Japanese restaurant with its own sushi bar. Expect classic dishes such as tempura, yakatori chicken and wagyu, plus a few surprises…

Kouzu makes a stunning first impression being housed in a Grade II-listed building, a grand entrance into its ground floor restaurant and cocktail bar. On the mezzanine level there’s an omaskase (‘let the chef decide for you’) sushi bar.

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Stunning light fittings give the room a glamorous air. The food easily matches the surroundings with an all Japanese brigade led by ex-Zuma chef Kyoichi Kai. The classics are done expertly, so sashimi, tempura, sushi and grilled yakatori chicken, lamb chops and wagyu are all beautifully presented. There are also some surprises: like French ravigote sauce with salmon yuzu dressing and Portobello mushroom with madeira sauce. (kouzu.co.uk/restaurant)

Bullseye: Sliced yellowtail, shiso, myoga, ginger, spring onion, ponzu truffle dressing.

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Misfire: It’s a big space so, unless it’s full, can feel a little lacking in atmosphere.

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