Relaxed café Auntbenny serves lovingly prepared breakfasts, coffees, lunches and dinners, many of which are gluten-free. Order a bottle of wine and a cheese plate with rosemary crackers or a slice of apple cake and eat it around the large communal table.
It’s worth making a long weekend of it just to catch Street Food Thursday. Taking place every Thursday evening at Markthalle 9, there’s always a good choice of dishes, from Swabian ravioli at Barbara’s kaffeetafel to Ruby beer from Heidenpeter, which is brewed on site (well, in the market’s basement).
Dive into the world of a Chinese eating house at the Long March Canteen. Specialising in both hot and cold dim sum, its most impressive feature is the dumpling station, the steam rising from it glowing under a red light. Try the tuna sashimi with beetroot.
Michelin-starred restaurant Skykitchen is set on the 11th floor of Andel’s Hotel Berlin, so diners get to enjoy breathtaking views of the city’s skyline as well as dishes like pikeperch with black pudding, pickled cabbage, pear and pearl onion.
If you’re after an edible souvenir to take home, head to Eat Berlin for delicious local delicacies. You’ll be spoilt for choice among its selection of chutneys, sauces, pestos, spices, teas and spreads, all made by small food companies.
When the sun hits, there’s nothing better than sitting outside wine bar Not Only Riesling with a glass of something chosen with care, direct from German and European wineries. Order a Riesling Quickie (three 0.1l glasses of German wine) or a Small Wine Tasting, (six 0.1l glasses from further afield plus a cheese board).
Not everything in Berlin is fast-changing and modern. Head to Café am Literaturhaus, a literature-focused exhibition space in a Wilhelminian-style villa, for a breakfast of ham and eggs, or a coffee and a strawberry tart; grab an outdoor table to enjoy the beautiful gardens.
The Berlin burger scene is huge and the standard high, but Burgeramt is the best for brisk but friendly service and a wide selection. If you’re overwhelmed by choice go for the teriyaki burger.
Owner of The Barn Roastery, Ralf Müller, has been a slow-brew pioneer in Berlin so expect a sensational coffee here, accompanied by a Berliner stulle (sandwich). The coffee is roasted at the back of the shop and is available to buy if you want to take some home.
Shop til you pop
A paradise for gourmets, Goldhahn & Sampson (pictured below) sells fine food, exceptional drinks, artisan chocolates and pastries as well as a variety of cookbooks. It also hosts regular cookery classes, some of them in English.
HOW TO DO IT
Return flights from a range of UK airports to Berlin Schönefeld start at around £50 (easyjet.com). Double rooms at the Michelberger Hotel cost from €69, room only.
Trust olive: Ellen Teschendorf is the author of Berlin Style Guide (Murdoch Books), and is the owner of the city’s cult kitchenwares store, Küchenliebe.