Pi, Battersea Rise: restaurant review

Who’s cooking?

After working in a Florence pizzeria, owner Rosie Whaley set up Pi in Winchester before opening her second place in south-west London.

What’s the vibe like?

Pi feels calm, restful and welcoming. Concrete walls are warmed up by striking living trees; vibrant yellow velvet seats and deep-blue tiles add a Mediterranean feel. The glass roof floods the already airy space with natural light while tea lights add warmth in the evenings.

How does the menu work?

As you’d expect, pizzas are the focus, with the option of splitting toppings half and half or into thirds. Portions are hearty (choose between a 12 or 20-inch pizza), with a selection of starters and sides including creamy burrata with sticky caramelised black fig, a mixed bruschetta board to graze on or a simple side of tomatoes drizzled with basil oil.

Which dishes should we order at Pi?

Pi’s dough is fermented for 72 hours, giving it a crisp yet chewy crust with a slight tang, while toppings were original and intriguing. We loved the earthy umami flavour of the truffle mushroom medley; a mixture of shiitake, oyster, field and chestnut that still had a bite to them. A cauliflower cheese sauce came as a rich, smooth purée topped with salty slices of chorizo and peppery spinach.

If you do want something more classic, the roast aubergines came sweet with just the right amount of bite with a fragrant garlic oil drizzled over, or go back to basics with sweet, juicy Isle of Wight tomatoes (also used to make the punchy Sunshine Mary cocktail).

Which dishes should we miss?

Skip the starters and go straight for mains as the cauliflower and Old Winchester arancini were a little stodgy and lacked seasoning on our visit.

What’s dessert like?

Desserts are kept classic, from creamy gelatos to rich salted caramel tarts. Make sure to end with the fig tiramisu, a lighter alternative to the coffee-soaked classic. Moist sponge is doused in rich grappa then topped with sticky figs and crunchy flaked almonds for a sweet, well-balanced dessert.

What are the drinks like at Pi?

The wine menu offers red, rosés and whites (six of each) with at least two vegan options for each. We enjoyed the velvety smooth montepulciano d’Abruzzo with notes of cherry, while a slightly sharper malbec was warm and spicy. If you fancy something a little stronger, grab a seat in the buzzing bar area beforehand for a pre-pizza cocktail.