Naples foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
The best places to eat, drink and stay in Naples where strong fragrant coffee, pastries peppered with candied citrus and sublime pizza make this chaotic Italian city a culinary knockout
Looking for places to eat in Naples? Want to find the best pizza in the Southern Italian city? Local food writer Gina Tringali shares her insider tips for the best restaurants in Naples, along with traditional cafés, local street food haunts and pre-dinner aperitivo bars.
Best pizza places in Naples
50 Kalò di Ciro Salvo
Visiting Naples without eating pizza would be sacrilege. For the best, head to the seafront at Mergellina and pizzeria 50 Kalò di Ciro Salvo. Order a stellar marinara, or one with braised escarole (endive), gaeta olives and piennolo tomatoes, and grab a local craft beer to drink with it.
Pizzaria La Notizia
Visiting Naples without eating pizza would be blasphemy. Head to smart Vomero and Pizzaria La Notizia for a classic with a twist, the margherita DOP or the San Gennaro with yellow piennolo tomatoes, oregano, anchovies, black olives, parsley and basil.
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Antica Osteria Pisano – best for authentic Neapolitan food
For home-style Neapolitan food in Naples head to Antica Osteria Pisano, going strong since 1947. Order the marinated anchovies, zeppoline di mare (fried dough with seaweed) and fried calamaretti to start, then pasta with seafood and a bottle of greco di tufo. End with a glass of house amaro, made with herbs.
Ai Monti Lattari deli – best food market hangout in Naples
In Naples' bustling Pignasecca market, Ai Monti Lattari deli sells Neapolitan snacks like taralli and tortano (pork- and cheese-studded bread). Ask Eva for a tasting of her family’s fior di latte, provola affumicata and caciocavallo cheese. Via Pignasecca 10; 00 39 081 551 9554
Pizza a Portafoglio di Gennaro Salvo – best street food in Naples
Wander along Via Toledo toward Naples' Piazza Plebiscito for street food at Pizza a Portafoglio di Gennaro Salvo. Order a pizza a portafoglio (it’s folded like a wallet), a crocchè di patate and frittatine di pasta. It’s worth the wait. Via Toledo 244; 00 39 081 2665 1218
Trattoria de Nennella – best lunch spot in Naples
Join the boisterous lunch crew at Trattoria da Nennella in the Quartieri Spagnoli for home-style dishes served at tables adorned with red-and-white-checked tablecloths. Try the creamy pasta and chickpeas or pasta with potatoes and provola cheese for the ultimate Neapolitan comfort food.
Il Vero Bar Del Professore – best place for coffee in Naples
Knock back a luscious caffè alla nocciola (espresso with hazelnut cream) at Il Vero Bar Del Professore. Or, if sweet coffee isn’t your thing, order a caffè shakerato senza zucchero (espresso shaken with ice) on a hot day.
Trattoria da Cicciotto – best seafood restaurant in Naples
Ask for a table overlooking the bay at Trattoria da Cicciotto, where elegantly dressed Italians take in the view of Capri while dining on the freshest local seafood. Order spaghetti alle vongole cooked perfectly al dente by chef Vincenzo.
Cantine Sociali – best place for cocktails in Naples
Moccia a Posillipo – best café in Naples
Whether you’re craving a sweet, flaky sfogliatella, a rum-soaked baba with whipped cream, a pillowy pizzetta or just a caffè, pull up a seat on the balcony at Bar Moccia a Posillipo and you can enjoy them with unparalleled views of the sea, Mount Vesuvius and the bay.
Centrale del Caffè – for coffee
Chic coffee bar Centrale del Caffè sells three coffee blends by the kilo. Go early for a cappuccino and a brioche roll, or after lunch for a caffè (espresso) and a slice of torta della nonna (custard cake).
Attanasio Sfogliatelle – best bakery in Naples
Whether you prefer your sfogliatelle flaky (riccia) or smooth (frolla), Attanasio Sfogliatelle, a cult bakery 10 steps from the city’s Central station, comes up trumps. They’re served warm, straight from the oven, filled with sweetened ricotta and candied citrus.
Pignasecca market – best traditional food market in Naples
Graze your way around lively Pignasecca market, Naples’ oldest outdoor food market. Stalls are filled with sputtering clams, fresh bread and fat, ripe tomatoes, but keep your eyes peeled for holes-in-the-wall selling pizza a portafoglio; piping hot pizza, folded over.
Le Zendraglie – for a traditional, family-run vibe
No frills Le Zendraglie packages offal for steadfast locals or serves it at its few tables. The Fiorenzano family transforms these cuts into traditional Neapolitan delicacies, including a selection of seafood and vegetarian dishes. Try tender centopelli (tripe) dressed with freshly squeezed lemon or a bowl of pasta and beans.
Via Pignasecca 14; 00 39 81 551 1993
Gay Odin chocolate – best chocolate in Naples
It may have nine shops across the city but Gay Odin still makes chocolates with artisanal savvy. At the Via Vetriera outlet you can get a sneak peak at their production and buy a box of the foreste; shaved milk chocolate shaped like logs.
Friggitoria Vomero – for street food snacks in Naples
Take the funicular to upscale Vomero for fritti (deep-fried snacks) with a panoramic view of the bay. Friggitoria Vomero serves delicious fried arancini, polenta and potato croquettes, scooped into a paper cone, to go.
Via Domenico Cimarosa, 44; 00 39 81 578 3130
Veritas – for fine dining in Naples
At Veritas, chef Gianluca D’Agostino (previously of Locanda Locatelli) delivers elegant food that’s big on regional and Mediterranean flavours. Order the ‘dalla terra alla luna’ tasting menu or go à la carte and savour his signature dish, mezzi paccheri pasta with pomodorini del piennolo; Vesuvian tomatoes with mussels and green peppers.
Enoteca Belledonne – for aperitivo in Naples
Well-heeled locals converge in trendy Chiaia to sip on wine and cocktails. Follow them into rustic wine bar Enoteca Belledonne for a glass of coda di volpe.
Osteria La Mattonella – for simple pasta dishes in Naples
In Quartieri Spagnoli take the hidden lift beside Ponte di Chiaia and step back in time at Osteria La Mattonella. Hand-painted tiles from the early 18th century line the walls of the Marangio family’s simple restaurant. Order the pasta alla Genovese; pasta with a beef and three onion - white, yellow and Tropea - sauce.
Via Giovanni Nicòtera 13; 00 39 81 416 541
Il Miracolo dei Pesce – for seafood in Naples
Out past fishermen’s boats at Mergellina minuscule Il Miracolo dei Pesce serves the daily catch to take away or eat in. Try fried mullet, sea bass or anchovy balls and grilled fish.
Largo Sermoneta 17; 00 39 81 769 0778
Pan’e Muzzurell’ – for food shopping in Naples
In the city’s historic centre cubicle sized Pan’e Muzzurell’ sells a range of top-notch local groceries. Grab a DOP cheese – a chunk of provolone del Monaco or mozzarella di bufala - or a made-to order-sandwich. Via Domenico Capitelli 14; 00 39 81 551 5030
Il Gelato Mennella – for gelato in Naples
A few choice flavours made with natural local ingredients is what Il Gelato Mennella offers. If you’re a nut lover order a scoop of nocciola di Giffoni made with = hazelnuts from Salerno, and another of noci di Sorrento made with walnuts from Sorrento.
La Trattoria Castel dell’Ovo – for a local seaside dinner in Naples
To skip dinner at the seaside resort of Borgo Marinaro in the shadow of Castel dell’Ovo would be a shame. Locals flock to barebones restaurant La Trattoria Castel dell’Ovo, aka ‘O Tabbacaro, to dine on zuppa di cozze (mussels and octopus sauté) and spaghetti with vongole.
Via Luculliana 28; 00 39 81 764 6352
HOW TO GET TO NAPLES
WHERE TO STAY IN NAPLES
Doubles at Costantinopoli 104 cost from £160, b&b (costantinopoli104.it).
More info: visitnaples.eu.
Food writer Gina Tringali divides her time between Rome, Naples and Sicily, designing foodie tours and writing for Casa Mia Italy Food & Wine Tours (italyfoodandwinetours.com) and GT Food & Travel (gtfoodandtravel.com).