Gooseberry jam

If you don’t have a sugar thermometer put a couple of saucers in the freezer for testing the jam. Put the berries, lemon juice, ginger and 100ml of water in a very large, deep pan, bring to a simmer, then cook for 20 mins until the fruit is tender and collapsing.

Add the sugars to the pan along with the vanilla pod and seeds, and simmer gently for 2-3 mins or until all the sugar has dissolved. Turn up the heat and cook the jam at a rolling boil for 10 mins, skimming away any scum that comes to the top. Use a sugar thermometer to test the jam – it should come to 105C. If you don’t have a thermometer, spoon a little of the jam onto one of the cold saucers. Leave for 30 secs, then push the jam with your fingertip. If it wrinkles slightly and isn’t running on the plate, the jam is ready. If not, cook for 3-4 mins more and test again on another cold saucer. Try not to cook for more than 20 mins as it will intensify the sweetness, losing some of the flavour.

Give the jam a final skim then stir in the butter. Let the jam cool for a few mins, allowing it to thicken, then ladle into hot sterilised jars (you’ll need three or four 300g jars), seal and leave to cool.