Olive Magazine

Snaps + Rye, London W10: restaurant review

Published: June 5, 2015 at 10:34 am
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Our content is updated regularly but it’s advisable to check opening times and availability with the venue before you plan to visit. Please follow government guidelines regarding social distancing

Try expertly cooked fish (along with the lowdown on Fiskefredag ('fish Friday')) and the best liquorice in London at this Danish cafe in Notting Hill

Snaps + Rye, a new Danish café on Golborne Road, is an effortlessly cool place. Typically Scandi in design (light and airy, clean lines, soft brown décor and a splash of red in the form of industrial shelves and bar stools), it’s the realised dream of local couple Kell and Jacqueline Skött, who also run a hairdressers round the corner.

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Diners choose from an a la carte menu that’s peppered with various wonderful combinations of fish, egg, rye bread, pickled things, berries and potato – so if you like all of the above, you’ll have a great time. The food is partly inspired by Cornish head chef Tania Steytler’s seaside upbringing, although there are also snippets that hark back to Kell’s childhood in Denmark – a surprisingly rich mushroom, nut and cream pâté, for example, that’s been a secret family recipe for decades.

Try flash fried smoked eel with warm potato salad, crisped ham and watercress; and smoked sardine with egg yolk, pickled beetroot, caper berries and radish ('sun over Golborne'). Or choose from a wide selection of smørrebrød (open face sandwiches), all made with homemade organic rye bread – boozy Akvavit-cured Var salmon is one of our favourites.

Plate of fish at Snaps + Rye, Notting Hill

But to experience Snaps + Rye at its very best, go on a Friday evening (the only day they’re open past 6pm) for Fiskefredag – fish Friday. Steytler creates a new four-course menu every week that’s totally dictated by what’s available, and as such the dishes are only announced the day before, on Snaps + Rye’s twitter feed. On a recent visit we had a punchy, vinegary bowl of cubed short-cure salmon and wild seabass with pickles and young herbs; a warm salad of cod, asparagus and lettuce with intense chicken dressing; a hearty shellfish and pearl barley risotto; and, to finish, silky buttermilk panna cotta with delicate pepparkakor (ginger biscuits) and pickled strawberries – all for £35. With food like this, it’s no wonder Denmark is the happiest nation in the world.

To drink, try a bottle of flavoured birch sap (destined to be the latest health food craze) or, for something a little more Viking, a rye snaps espresso cocktail made from house-infused rye Akvavit, Kahlúa, espresso and ice. Do as the Danes do and finish your meal with a strong coffee and a few pellets of exquisite Danish 'Lakrids' liquorice – please don’t leave without trying the dulce de leche flavour.

Bullseye: house-cured herring and horseradish on rye, available from the counter (£3.70) or as a starter with potato salad (£5.50). An absolute classic, beautifully done.


By Charlotte Morgan

@snapsandrye

93 Golborne Road, Notting Hill, W10

Opening Hours:

Tuesday - Thursday: 8am - 6pm

Friday: 8am - 11pm

Saturday: 8am - 6pm

Sunday: 10am – 6pm


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