Name: Maunika Gowardhan's joyous Keralan dishes
Cuisine: Indian

A plate of nadan chicken peralan with curry leaves on top

One of the most stunning regions within southern India is undoubtedly the state of Kerala. Most people I speak to who have visited always rave about the scenic views, food, culture and the local people. My first trip and introduction to the Malayali community was at the age of 12 when I made a trip to travel with family and friends across the city. Ever since, I have been so many times to explore the city, cuisine and also, by chance, for a family wedding.

Seeing the varied communities within one region including Christians, Muslims and Hindus, and the differences in cooking styles, fascinates me. For instance, the Malayali Hindus have a unique cooking style with recipes and traditions which include religious practices that differ to the Christian and Muslim communities in Kerala. The prevalence of cooking fish, meat or poultry within the coastal region have come from the culinary influences of the Christian and Muslim families. A region renowned for its use of black pepper in curries and stir-fried dishes much before chillies made an entry into India. For me, delving into Syrian Christian cooking holds joyous memories as a young girl. I always turned to Mariam, a lovely lady who left Kerala to join our family home and brought along with her an abundance of local knowledge and recipes that I have adored. This in its truest form is where my love for (and introduction to) Kerala and its people began. She used to cook the most delicious avial (potato curry) and plenty of fish, as well as meat curries, too. She would share stories of her hometown and how they grew local veg, went fishing and ground spices. I could listen for ages and that is one of the reasons I thoroughly enjoy visiting Kerala even today.

Maunika Gowardhan's Keralan dishes

Kerala fish moilee

This is best made with fish steaks, which are held together with the help of a centre bone and ensure the fish stays intact (ask the fishmonger to do this). If you can’t get steaks, chunky fillets will work.

Nadan chicken peralan

Last year during my travels in Kerala, I ate this chicken peralan and loved the flavours. Most family homes I’ve eaten this dish at have cooked the chicken separately to the gravy, although I prefer to make it all at the same time rather than in stages. Chicken peralan has heat, so tailor the level of spice based on how much you prefer. Vinegar, pepper and fennel add so much flavour, as well as a gorgeous aroma while complementing spices such as mustard seeds and curry leaves. Serve with rice, paratha or pathiri.