A complete guide to summer suncare

All year long, we're bombarded with tips on managing our skincare regimes, from the wrinkle-busters we should be using, to the makeup that won't slip southwards come sundown. Once you’ve realised there’s no magic anti-ageing cream, it's tempting to block out the noise – after all, there are worse things than crêpe-like skin. But, there's one regime that can't be ignored: suncare is much more than a guard against the unwelcome aesthetics of skin ageing; it's preventative health. It is our skin's shield against the very real and dangerous effects of accumulative sun exposure.

The science of suncare is an area of constant research and development. We've come a long way since the days when mahogany-coloured sunbathers would smother themselves in cooking oil while children ran around beaches wearing sunscreens that left them looking like they'd rolled around a chalk pit. Today, we understand the need for a robust defence against the damaging rays emitted by the sun – in particular, UVA (rays that penetrate deep into the skin and cause premature ageing) and UVB (rays that cause sunburn, the quick-hit damage that leads to accumulative harm, including melanoma).

"Modern sunscreens cut the amount of both types of UV light reaching the skin in one of two ways: they either absorb it or scatter it and reflect it away from the skin," explains Caroline Rainsford, director of science at CTPA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association). The former, sometimes referred to as chemical or organic filters, work by absorbing ultraviolet rays much like a sponge soaks up water. "Each tiny sunscreen 'sponge' soaks up ultraviolet rays, then releases it back out after converting it into lower-energy rays," she continues. "Reflector filters – mineral or inorganic filters – act differently, reflecting and scattering UV rays. They can be thought of as thousands of tiny mirrors, each reflecting UV rays away from the skin.”

Increasingly, we're looking to suncare to go further and perform in ever more sophisticated ways. We want it to blend the science of sun defence with protection against other pollutants, plus textural comfort, multifunctionality and sustainability. "Recent innovations in suncare are all about formulation elegance and multifunctionality," says Dr Tara Francis, a practitioner in facial aesthetics and skin treatment. "We're seeing sunscreens that feel more like skincare, with lightweight textures, hydrating ingredients and no white cast. There's also a growing focus on broad-spectrum protection beyond UVB, to include UVA, infrared, blue light and pollution defence. Hybrid sunscreens that combine chemical and mineral filters are on the rise, offering both comfort and cosmetic appeal." There are more options than ever available, but how can you choose what's right for you?

You want: sunscreen that doubles as skincare

While it's generally advised that SPF-reinforced skincare should not be treated as primary suncare, sun creams are evolving to do both jobs. "Modern sunscreens are now infused with skincare actives," affirms Dr Rachna Murthy, a medical aesthetic practitioner and co-founder of the FaceRestoration clinic. "Think: hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides and antioxidants. These ingredients not only protect from UV damage, but also hydrate, soothe and repair the skin barrier, improving overall skin texture and health."

For oily skins, she recommends lightweight, non-comedogenic, water-based or gel sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Additives like niacinamide help control oil and inflammation. For dry skin, she suggests creamy sunscreens that are rich in hydrating agents – hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides – and soothing botanicals like aloe vera. Alcohol and fragrances should be avoided, as they can exacerbate dryness.

Layering also works to ensure all needs are met. "Most water-based and gentle actives, like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, mix well with sunscreen. However, combining certain actives, like retinol or AHAs, with chemical filters can increase irritation or reduce efficacy, so compatibility and order of application matter," advises Dr Murthy.

You want: sun protection that doesn't leave a white cast

Historically, mineral sunscreens have been responsible for leaving behind a white cast, which becomes more pronounced on darker skins. "The white cast is typically caused by mineral filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in their raw form," explains Dr Francis. "However, newer technologies use micronised or nano-particle versions that are far more transparent on application, even on darker skin tones." She recommends mineral sunscreens that are marketed as 'sheer', 'invisible' or 'tinted', and to opt for cream or gel textures over thick pastes. "Brands like ISDIN, Ultra Violette and Black Girl Sunscreen have done particularly well in this space.”

You want: SPF you can rely on

"There are internationally standardised test methods that are used to provide an SPF number," says Rainsford. "These tests, developed over decades, are subject to intense scrutiny by the leading global sun protection experts and rigorously tested by different laboratories around the world before they are issued for companies to use." A separate, internationally standardised test is performed to ensure the UVA protection has been achieved. Water resistance and broad-spectrum protection are also rigorously tested. "Look for products that state compliance with EU Cosmetics Regulation or the FDA (for the US), or bear marks like 'broad-spectrum,' 'water-resistant' or 'reef-safe' for additional assurance," advises Dr Murthy.

You want: sun cream that doesn't irritate your skin

"For sensitive or reactive skin, mineral sunscreens made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are generally better tolerated, as they sit on the skin's surface and are less likely to cause irritation," says Dr Francis. The most common irritants in suncare are oxybenzone and octinoxate. Some chemical filters, like avobenzone or octocrylene, can trigger stinging or redness in those with sensitivity, and across the board, fragrance, alcohol and certain preservatives should be avoided. "Choose sunscreens labelled 'hypoallergenic' or 'fragrance-free', or those that are specifically formulated for sensitive skin.”

You want: suncream that doesn't harm the planet

Certain chemical filters, especially oxybenzone and octinoxate, have been linked to coral bleaching and marine toxicity, leading to a ban in Hawaii and other Pacific and Caribbean regions. Bioaccumulation has been found in fish and algae, while microplastic beads or silicones contribute to water pollution. "Look for 'reef-safe', 'biodegradable' or 'ocean-friendly' labelling, although this isn't a regulated term, so check ingredient lists," recommends Dr Francis. "Non-nano zinc oxide is generally considered the safest for both skin and the environment." Some brands now carry eco-impact ratings or certifications for environmental safety.

You want: SPF that works with make-up

"Lightweight, non-greasy, fast-absorbing sunscreens in gel or fluid forms work best under makeup," says Dr Murthy. "Primers and setting sprays with SPF can add a layer of protection, but should not be your only sun defence. Coverage is often insufficient unless reapplied generously, so they should be used as a supplement, not a replacement." She advises that you choose products with clear SPF labelling and broad-spectrum claims, and ideally those tested for efficacy when used over makeup. "Brands like Supergoop!, Intradermologie, Murad and Live Tinted are recognised for innovative SPF-makeup hybrids that offer real protection without compromising makeup wear." Also on our radar is Colorescience and Heliocare.

The bottom line

While science brings increased comfort, convenience and intelligence, the making of a good suncare regime doesn't begin and end in the laboratory. Responsible use is essential to ensure we are thoroughly protected. It's recommended that sun protection be incorporated into regimes all year round to defend against incidental sun exposure. "We should wear sunscreen even on cloudy days, and even indoors by a window," says Rainsford. For more intense exposure, she recommends applying sunscreen 15-30 minutes before going out and reapplying it every couple of hours (more often if you're going into water). Each time, count on half a teaspoon for the face and each arm, and a full teaspoon for each leg, the front of the body and the back, remembering the ears, under the chin and the soles of the feet if lying down. If using a spray sunscreen, spray generously and always rub it in. And, never use sunscreen to extend the time you would normally spend in the sun. Your skin will thank you for every day you protect it – and so will your future self.

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