Puerto Rico: 10 things we love

Colorful, historical buildings on the coast of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

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10 things we love about Puerto Rico
Where to eat and drink in Puerto Rico
Where to stay in Puerto Rico

10 things we love about Puerto Rico

Tropical fruits

Over 1,000 exotic fruits grow here, guava is the most popular currently. Everything is guava flavoured, from cocktails to energy drinks. You can find it in a paste, for eating with cheese and crackers or even adding to toasted sandwiches. It is also reported to be a fantastic hangover cure!

Jueyes (crab) alcapurria

Alcapurria are a filled fritter with a dough made from plantain and taro. They’re usually filled with ground pork, but the crab ones are delicious, filled with a rich sauce and chunky pieces of crab. I love alcapurria de jueyes because it connects me to the past, to a pre-industrial time when people cooked with honest, local ingredients.

Five bowls of fried fritters on a wooden bar with lightbulbs above — Photograph: Getty

Traditional Christmas food

Christmas is a hugely important time in Puerto Rico. We make pasteles, which are similar to a tamale, but made with green plantain and cassava. We fill them with roasted pork with sofrito, which is a flavour base for our cooking. It is made of onions, sweet peppers, garlic, tomatoes and coriander, though every family has its own version. Christmas is special to me because It’s a bit of flavour mixed with nostalgia—food evokes memories, and those from the holiday season here are the most beautiful.

Two pasteles wrapped in paper and string on a plate with holly leaves

Fresh fish

In Puerto Rico, commercial fishing is artisanal, regulated, and there are around 170 species in our underwater ecosystems. From mahi-mahi, snook, yellow-fin tuna to dorado. They can be prepared in all manner of ways, from bacalao (salted fish) to ceviche or carpaccio. At Cocina Abierta, we roast snook in our wood-oven and serve with a coconut ‘beurre blanc’; it is one of our favourites.

Caribbean lobster

Caribbean lobster, sometimes called spiny lobsters, are a species of lobster that have a firmer textured meat than Atlantic lobsters. We serve them with a chilli crisp which is a winning combination.

The waterfalls in El Yunque

Puerto Rico has diverse landscapes – of course we are famous for our beautiful beaches, but we also have mountains, and a rainforest, El Yunque. It has 29,000 acres of lush greenery and three large waterfalls. There is nothing better than standing underneath a waterfall on some of our hottest days.

Sunset in Rincón

Rincón is a fantastic town on the west coast of the island that has amazing beaches and a thriving surfing scene. The sunsets are some of the best in the world. If you’re into surfing, make sure you check out María’s beach. In the winter it hosts pro-surfing events and in the summer, it has a more relaxed vibe.

Bar hopping in Old San Juan

Puerto Ricans know how to party! There is a bustling nightlife scene in Old San Juan, with plenty of drinks and dancing. There’s something for everyone; I like heading to La Factoría for cocktails, grabbing a quick bite at Caleta, and jazz and mezcal cocktails at La Grieta.

Mangrove forests in Piñones

The mangrove forests in Piñones are the biggest network of natural mangroves in Puerto Rico – it really is an ecological paradise. Follow a trail through the mangroves near the reefs where you can spot wildlife such as sea turtles, crabs and all varieties of birds. Pack a cooler full of alcapurrias and oysters to enjoy at the end.

Image of the mangrove forest and blue sea

Attending a Bomba event

Bomba is the traditional dance of Puerto Rico, blending the three cultural heritages of PR; African, Spanish & Taino. Taino are the indigenous people of Puerto Rico. The dance is a lively call and response style between a drummer and a dancer. The events are full of joy and celebration. It is definitely worth seeing a performance.

Where to eat and drink in Puerto Rico

Café Cuatro Sombras

This micro-roastery is an interactive coffee where you can see the machines going as you sip. As well as spectacular coffee there’s a small menu, including a must-try grilled ham and cheese croissant with guava jam. cuatrosombras.com

Choco Bar Cortés

This café is devoted to all things chocolate and has an impactful social history. In 1902, the US banned the teaching of Spanish in schools, so comic strips in the wrappers of the chocolate bars helped teach young Puerto Rican’s how to read their language. It still offers traditional hot chocolate served with a piece of cheddar cheese. Don’t knock it until you try it! chocobarcortes.com

Chocolate brownie topped with ice cream, chocolate sauce and chocolate swirl

Cocina Abierta

Chef Martin’s restaurant is an absolute masterclass in Puerto Rican flavour and the duck mofongo is a must-try. This was one of the first restaurants to re-open after hurricane Maria, where they rallied together and fed their local community. cocinaabierta.net

Chefs in a dark professional restaurant kitchen

La Faena

Head chef Kevin Garcia centres on local and seasonal ingredients. The restaurant collaborates with farmers all over the island, favouring the locally grown over imported ingredients. The result is a fresh, exciting menu in a relaxed atmosphere. instagram.com/lafaena.pr

Frutos del Guacabo

This is a small but mighty farm focussing on hydroponics and sustainable farming. In guided tours you can sample all the things the farm has to offer, including milking a goat. They grow everything from mangoes, chillies, pomegranates, lime leaves, microherbs, all supplying local restaurants and communities. frutosdelguacabo.com

Flavors Food Tours

Flavors Food Tours offers an in-depth and delicious food tour away from the classic tourist spots of San Juan, peppered with samples such as ceviche, Puerto Rican coffee and pure fruit ice lollies, as well as snippets of social and cultural history. sanjuanfoodtours.com

Sofrito Tours

If you’re exploring the island, Sofrito tours, named after the staple Puerto Rican ingredient, will show you some of the best food off the beaten track. I loved the circular alcapurrias at Sazón de Sylvia. You can pick a side of the island to explore in depth and Laura will tailor the tour to you. If you choose the northeast of the island, you might get lucky and see the manatees at Loiza. sofritotourspr.wordpress.com

Hacienda tres angeles

Up in the mountains of Puerto Rico resides the most idyllic coffee hacienda. This family-run coffee farm is surrounded by incredible views and run by lovely, knowledgeable people. Seeing the ‘bean to cup’ experience really makes you appreciate the coffee we rely on every day! haciendatresangeles.com

Casa Bacardí

The piña colada was originated in Puerto Rico, although there is still debate as to where; (either the Caribe Hilton or Barrachina). Visiting the Bacardi distilleries is a lot of fun. You can have a tour, take part in a mixology class or just sip on their wide cocktail selection. bacardi.com/casa-bacardi

Man pouring bottle of Bacardi into a cocktail shaker

Where to stay in Puerto Rico

Aire de Olive

A stone’s throw from some of the most stunning beaches, Aire de Olive offers a luxury, laid-back, bohemian vibe. The 80-room hotel gives a more personal feel and you're very much encouraged to view it as a home away from home. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, furnished with sustainable materials such as wood, rattan and cotton, and use low-energy lightbulbs, many with a sea-view.

There are two great spots to eat, head to the rooftop bar for KUMO, offering relaxed fare such as burrata and wagyu sliders, or to AWWA, the raw bar, for dishes such as sashimi with passionfruit – an omakase with Puerto Rican touches throughout. There is a rooftop pool for relaxing with one of the many cocktails from the menu, or walk the 30 seconds to the beach for a dip in the sea, where they provide you sun loungers and towels. It's very close to the airport, too, which is very handy.

Rooms start from £300 a night, check availability at booking.com or airedeolive.com

Aire de Olive hotel rooftop swimming pool

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