Demand for more affordable dining options has brought delicious changes to the city’s food scene, not least a growing number of venues providing high-quality street food. At Trapizzino, which opened in Testaccio in May, thick and spongy pizza corners are toasted, sliced open and filled with spoonfuls of hearty Roman dishes like oxtail stew, braised beef, aubergine parmigiana and meatballs (from €3.50). In April, beloved local chef Arcangelo Dandini launched Supplizio in the Centro Storico. Here, in a space that resembles a Renaissance lounge, he serves supplì (fried rice balls), crochette (potato croquettes) and crema fritta (fried pastry cream) from around €3 – a fraction of their cost at his restaurant, L’Arcangelo.
A short stroll away, Forno Campo de’ Fiori makes a supremely seasonal sandwich, available only from August to early October, called pizza con prosciutto e fichi – flatbread filled with ripe figs and sliced prosciutto, or head to historic bakery Antico Forno Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari 34), where pizza con la mortazza (mortadella-filled flatbread) is an inexpensive sandwich served year-round.
Across the river in Prati, porchetta (deboned roast pork) sandwiches, are the specialty at Birra e Porchetta (Via Ciro Menotti 32) and the pizza con la porchetta (roast pork filled flatbread) from Panificio Bonci (Via Trionfale 36) has to be the city’s most satisfying street-food bite.
HOW TO DO IT: Return flights to Rome Ciampino from a range of UK airports start from around £45 (Ryanair.com). Double rooms at B&B Cristiana cost from €80.
Written September 2014