
This lush, unspoilt region has plenty to offer foodies beyond its famous cake
Baldwin Ho explains why he keeps trekking back to the Black Forest in Germany every year to dine on the very best that the verdant landscape has to offer.
When you think of the Black Forest, most people think of Black Forest gâteau. And, while this decadent creation is certainly a masterpiece of the region, the extremely fertile terroir has a plethora of gastronomic delights to offer. Immerse yourself in this gourmet region of unspoilt pine forests and scenic hiking routes, and you'll discover countless hidden gems. Here are some the best places to eat and drink in the Black Forest...
For more European travel guides, check out our picks of the where to eat in Porto, the best restaurants in Tbilisi, Georgia, the best restaurants in Prague or our favourite European city breaks.
Best places to eat and drink in the Black Forest
CUBE Restaurant
Stuttgart is one of the gateway cities into the Black Forest, and a great starting point. It's one of the greenest cities in Germany, with around 60 per cent dedicated to green space. You'll find some of the most progressive restaurants here, including Cube. The glass architecture ensures the best views of the city, overlooking the Kunstmuseum, and the menu is eclectic, with onsen tamago (low-temperature boiled egg) ramen sitting comfortably beside creamy burrata served with fig and port. It's one of the most cutting-edge restaurants you'll find in the region. cube-restaurant.de

Grosser Meyerhof
On the other end of the spectrum is Grosser Meyerhof, a must-try when you visit the unofficial capital of the Black Forest, Freiburg. It's one of the oldest taverns in the city, and has a disarming casual vibe with a rustic, wood-heavy interior.
This is the kind of eatery where most diners are locals. Dishes are generously portioned and cost around the €10-20, and you can't miss the sizeable pork shoulder with sauerkraut or the comfort food heaven that is the käsespätzle (homemade egg noodles mixed with melted cheese and topped with caramelised onions). grosser-meyerhof.de

Dorfstuben
For refined country cooking, this restaurant is just the place. Situated inside the ultra-luxury five-star superior Hotel Bareiss, the farmhouse-style rooms ooze quaint charm, with authentic cuckoo clocks and traditional ceramic tile stoves. Personable waitresses even serve you dressed in traditional dirndl attire.
It specialises in the regional cuisine that you'd be hard-pressed to find even in other parts of Germany, like the popular Swabian ravioli and apple fritters. You'll also find local fish dishes, as the hotel owns the Buhlbach trout farm nearby. bareiss.com

Löwen Buchholz
A significant portion of the Black Forest experience revolves around hiking, and you'll find numerous family-run restaurants and hotels in the countryside that serve exceptional dishes – one such spot is Hotel & Gasthaus Löwen Waldkirch-Buchholz, 12km north-east of Freiburg.
Surrounded by boutique wineries and Black Forest scenery, this is what makes this region so magical. Local Swabian Hall pork is used for the schnitzel, which has higher marbling and richer flavour. The restaurant also leans heavily into seasonality – in autumn, you'll find plenty of pumpkin in the dishes, from risotto to cream soup. loewen-buchholz.com

Restaurant zum Hirschen
If you're looking for an authentic, tranquil Black Forest experience, Simonswald is the area to visit, with its lush, natural landscapes. Here, you'll also find Restaurant zum Hirschen, which serves local Swabian maultaschen – sizeable, square-shaped pasta dough pockets filled with a rich mixture of mince, breadcrumbs, spinach, onions and herbs.
If you get into a conversation with the staff about Black Forest cake, you'll most likely end up with the iconic dish on your table. They feel that outside of the Black Forest, restaurants might not use kirschwasser (cherry brandy) – and that would be akin to a cardinal sin. To burn off the calories, visit the nearby historic oil mill – it was built in 1712 and fully restored in 2002, and you can purchase the walnut oil to take home. hotel-zum-hirschen.at

Markthalle Stuttgart
If you don't want to be tied down to the rigidity of a restaurant meal, visit this historic food hall in Stuttgart – an ideal way to explore the diverse culinary scene of the region. Stalls include Wurstliebe by Gustav Breyer, which offers a carefully curated selection of cured meats and high-quality sausages from all over Germany, alongside Swabian burgers (maultaschen in a bun).
Here, you'll also find the most popular bakery in the city, Bäcker Baier. Founded in 1835, it's still going strong. markthalle-stuttgart.de

Alte Wache Freiburg
Another institution is Alte Wache in Freiburg – especially on a warm summer's day. It's a much-loved wine bar in the heart of the old town, directly on the Münsterplatz. It takes pride in being a gateway to Baden wine – you can taste and purchase around 100 bottles, including grauburgunder (pinot gris), spätburgunder (pinot noir) and riesling.
The signature drink here is the kalte sofie: similar to a wine slushie, you can choose from a red or white wine option, or a non-alcoholic version. The sweetness is derived only from the addition of grape juice. alte-wache.com

3 foodie experiences in the Black Forest
Wine tasting at Moosmann
If you prefer wine tasting at an actual winery, consider Weingut Moosmann, located in the centre of Buchholz in the Black Forest. What makes it stand out is that it's very much a family-run affair – you'll be taken on the winery tour by owner Siegfried Moosmann, who will passionately discuss Baden wines for hours on end, even when you suspect he might have more important business to attend to in the winery!
It specialises in various pinot varieties, such as spätburgunder, weißburgunder (pinot blanc) and grauburgunder. The dry wines are particularly highly rated, such as the 2019 Alte Reben Spätburgunder. weingut-moosmann.com

Tapas hiking tour
Culinary hiking tours are all the rage in the Black Forest region, and the Biederbach tapas tour delivers on both a diverse landscape and varied culinary offering. The total experience (and 16km hike) can take up to 8 hours, with three tapas stops along the way. The term "tapas" is used very loosely, as the portions are more akin to a starter, but you're still offered three dishes per stop. You'll pass verdant, sun-drenched meadows as well as towering, evergreen pine forests during your hike.

Oberkircher culinary wine hike
For another wine-focused experience, there's the Oberkirch wine hike. You'll cover a 7km hiking trail, with multiple stops for food and wine. Oberkirch is one of the most famous wine regions in the Black Forest, so you'll be surrounded by magnificent vineyard landscapes en route. The highlight is ascending to the summit of the Schauenburg Castle ruins for the the most mesmerising views of Oberkirch – it'll make you truly fall in love with the charming Black Forest region.

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