Best restaurants in Tbilisi: where locals eat in the vibrant Georgian capital

Looking for restaurants in Tbilisi? Want to know where to eat and drink in the Georgian capital? Restaurateur Giorgi Mindiashvili showed me his favourite spots in his hometown, and shares a deep-dive into Georgian cuisine here.

Where to eat and drink in Tbilisi, Georgia

Shavi Lomi – for sharing-style suppers

Named after Niko Pirosmani’s Black Lion painting, this stunning tree-lined courtyard and cosy converted house is popular with artsy locals. Centre stage is the gobi, a thali-style wooden sharing bowl filled with multicoloured pkhali dips, fresh cheeses and breads. Next comes the likes of stuffed lobiani, whole grilled aubergines doused in walnut and pomegranate sauce, Georgian lamb risotto and beef dolma with minted yogurt. Plus, layered honey cake for dessert. instagram.com/shavilomi_tbilisicuisine/

Craft – for cosy bistro feels

A concept store turned bistro and wine bar with a warm, homely feel, showcasing ceramics from Georgian artisans on its blush pink walls. Alongside rotating wines from small-batch producers (Artana, Ethno, Kiketi Farm), authentic flavours and regional dishes are given a contemporary lift. Think pan-fried butter mushrooms in bazhe (spiced walnut sauce), fresh from the oven lavash flatbreads and marinated aubergine from the charcoal makali grill served with spiced green chilli ajika and red pepper pkhali. craftwinerestaurant.com

Saperavi – for wine ice cream

Look out for kiosks selling unique, purple-hued wine ice cream, including this pretty wooden domed kiosk perched above the river by the Second Bridge of Love. Order a cone piled high with wine soft serve and a glass of fresh pomegranate juice before heading to the atmospheric Orbeliani Baths for a rejuvenating sulfur soak and scrub. 8 Abano Turn

Oro – for western Megrelian dishes

Set in a former printing house with elegant interiors and a leafy courtyard, Oro is an ode to Georgia’s historic western Megrelian region, with a little spicier cuisine and unique preparation techniques – for example, its pizza-style khachapuri served with bubbling cheese on top. Try regional sharing feasts of elarji (pulled sulguni cheese melted into cornmeal ghomi), adjika-roasted corn on the cob, herb-flecked kharcho stew, roast shkmeruli chicken in a creamy garlic sauce and cottage cheese dumplings served with fig jam and soured cream. The wine list has a section dedicated to qvevri wines using ancient techniques from Tegani, Nareklishvili and Kviriashvili vineyards. orotbilisi.ge

Caravanserai Bakery – for Georgian bakes

Housed in a vaulted cellar hidden beneath Tbilisi's old town, this traditional Georgian bakery offers all kinds of baked goods, most notably khachapuri cheese breads. Female bakers in traditional aprons are on hand to guide tastings through the repertoire of curd cheese-filled imeruli, meat-filled kubdari and megruli with extra bubbling cheese on top. 13/40 Sioni St

Kakhelebi – for farm-to-table Kakhetian cuisine

On the outskirts of Tbilisi lies this popular roadside restaurant, where locals flock for long lunches. Most of the produce used in the sharing dishes is grown on the restaurant's own farm in the rich, fertile Kakheti region. Salads come jewelled with pomegranates and walnuts and platters of delicate khinkali were the freshest I tried in the city. Slow-cooked tomato and herb goat stew and juices from an assortment of shish-style mtsvadi skewers (goat, lamb, pork) can be mopped up with grilled flatbread pockets. The owners even make their own wine following the traditional qvevri method, while surplus grapes are used to make pelamushi pudding. instagram.com/kakhelebi/

Keto & Kote – for special occasions

Offering sweeping views of the city from its expansive terrace, this beguiling 19th-century mansion is nestled into the trees in Tbilisi's Vera district. Inside, chandeliers, handwoven tapestries and murals add splashes of colour to the building's wooden floorboards, shutters and intricate cornicing. Contemporary takes on Georgian classics include red bean-filled lobiani, megrelian cheese pie, chikhirtma herby chicken broth and plenty of fresh zingy salads. A dessert table is laid with the likes of meringue pie, walnut honey cake and the signature cherry tart. instagram.com/ketoandkote/

Saamuri – for natural wine

This natural wine bar and shop is a lesson in industrial chic, housed in a former sewing factory as part of urban space Fabrika. Its shiny walls are left bare save for contemporary wooden shelves from which a curation of natural Georgian wines shine. Sit at the tiled window counter to watch the world go by before hopping across the way to Popolo for thin-crust pizza if you've had too many dumplings. fabrikatbilisi.com

Where to stay in Tbilisi – Stamba

Stamba’s former life as a 1950s publishing house is embraced from the moment you enter – a functional printing press runs along the ceiling of the brutalist-style lobby, through which trees grow alongside concrete pillars. A mustard-hued wood oven for baking kachapuri takes centre stage in the main all-day Georgian European fusion brasserie, with the kitsch Pink Bar offshoot serving signature cocktails and a coffee and chocolate roastery for soothing treats. The building sprawls out in all directions, with original floor-to-ceiling windows opening into concrete jungle courtyards, co-working spaces and a dedicated wine bar and shop, Warehouse, where an ex-Noma sommelier guides guests through tastings from Georgia’s finest vineyards. Spacious rooms interweave industrial features with contemporary Georgian artwork, bold furnishings and mini libraries. Plush amenities include brass and copper bathtubs, state of the art coffee machines and regional spirits, and recipes to craft your own cocktails. stambahotel.com