Where to eat and drink in Málaga: an insider shares her favourite restaurants

Looking for the best restaurants in Málaga? Want to know where to eat and drink in the southern Spanish coastal city? Insider Milli Taylor says, "My family spent much of my childhood between Málaga and London, and eventually settled there permanently when I was 17. Although I stayed in London, I think of Málaga as my soul home and, however many times I visit in a year, the city still gives me the same buzz. This year, I co-hosted our first Spanish retreat, Sobremesa – a few unforgettable days of introducing food lovers to the city and teaching them to cook and bake with its extraordinary local produce from the market. Playing city guide was pure joy, so I’m thrilled to do the same here."

For more Spanish travel inspiration, check out our guide to the best Spanish food trips, best Spanish hotels for food lovers or the best restaurants in San Sebastian.

A local's best restaurants in Málaga

Eat breakfast at Churrería de Malagueña

I like to get into the city early for coffee and churros. Everyone will tell you to go to Casa Aranda and, don’t get me wrong, both places do great churros (also called porras or tejeringos) but I prefer the chewy texture at La Malagueña and the chocolate is far superior. Where Casa Aranda is fun and fast paced, it is very touristy and I find La Malagueña a more chilled out local spot, perched up on the bar watching the waiters move around each other like dancers.

Sample local wine at Antigua Casa de Guardia

It’s the oldest wine bar in Málaga and really feels like not much has changed there since it opened in 1840. I wouldn’t order food other than a couple of banderillas to whet the appetite but standing at the bar tasting sweet Màlaga wines from the barrel for a couple of euros a pop really roots you in a good time and place. In the summer this place is heaving but the service is quick and the glasses are small so it’s worth waiting for your spot. When you’re done they chalk up your bill on the counter and you’ll feel ready to head out and eat. antiguacasadeguardia.com

Head to Atarazanas Market for seafood

The market is a joy for the senses and to walk around. It’s divided into fresh produce, meat and fish. It’s become a little touristy but if you know where to go it’s still brilliant. You cannot eat fresher fish than here. You’ll need to try gambas rojas and razor clams, or any clams really that take your fancy. Málaga is home to the concha fina, a big juicy clam that is eaten alive and with lemon juice. My favourite place for seafood is standing at the bar in the hustle and bustle at Marisqueria El Yerno. mercadomalaga.es

Solo diners must try Mesón Mariano

I like watching the food come out the kitchen and the jamón being cut. This place is famous for its artichokes so if they’re in season you must try them. I also love the huevos rotos here.

For a fancy yet informal meal I love Mesón Ibérico

This place is really popular with locals and so I get there just before doors open to secure a spot. Service is so swift and friendly, and it’s a beautiful bar to sit in. As soon as you sit down you are given a few slices of salchichón de bellota while you look at the menu. My top tip would be to order the bacalao al pil pil. If you order the fabada asturiana they will tell you it comes from a tin but it is exceptional and after just one day in Málaga you’ll be embracing all food from tins. mesoniberico.net

After lunch try an ice cream at Casa Mira, an institution

There are a couple of spots: go to the one on Calle Larios for all the slamming lids and drama, or the smaller one by the cathedral if you want to sit outside in a quieter spot. The local ice cream is almond and pedro ximénez soaked raisins, and really does taste like Málaga in a mouthful.

No trip to Málaga is complete without eating espetos on the beach

These sardines are skewered on a cane and slow-roasted over wood fires right in the sand. It’s a tradition that goes back more than a century, originally created by fishermen cooking their catch on the shore. Today you’ll find the little boats turned firepits lined up along the coastline. You can smell them before you see them – olive wood smoke, charred skin and sea salt.

My favourite dessert is from a restaurant called La Cosmo

It’s the corn flan with corn praline that is so iconic they cannot take it off the menu. If you ask nicely and they’re not busy they’ll let you in just to eat dessert. lacosmo.es/en

More travel guides

Best restaurants in Athens
Best restaurants in Tbilisi
Best European mountain escapes
Best Morocco food trips
Best French food trips
Best Spanish food trips
Best Portuguese food trips
Best European vineyards to visit and stay
Best foodie city breaks by train
Best Spanish hotels
Best Italian hotels
Best country house hotels in the UK
Best Scottish hotels