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Bowls of ayam masak merah (red chicken)

Malaysian cuisine: how to cook like a local

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Explore the diverse flavours of this Southeast Asian country, from chilli-spiked fish to freshly fried fritters

Want to learn about the cuisine of Malaysia? Discover what makes it special, plus three recipes to try from Sugen Gopal. For more global recipes, check out our guides to Venetian cuisine or Vietnamese cuisine.

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Recipes extracted from Roti King by Sugen Gopal (£18.99, Quadrille). Photographs: Sam Folan. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.


Malaysian cuisine

Malaysian cuisine is vibrant and flavoursome, and has been greatly influenced – in terms of ingredients, flavour combinations and cooking techniques – by neighbouring countries including Thailand, Indonesia and beyond. Malaysia is made up of a diverse demographic, with just over half of the population being Malay, around a quarter Chinese and many Indian. Immigration, historic trading routes and colonisation have all influenced the variety of ingredients and methods of cooking that make Malaysian cuisine what it is. Street food is an intrinsic part of life for many in Malaysia, whether you want a hot meal, a savoury or sweet snack, or a reviving drink, whatever time of day, there is a huge variety available. Roadside street vendors and hawker market stalls sell a mixture of fried, steamed and boiled meat and fish, flavoured with an abundance of vegetables, herbs, spices and aromatics. There are rice and noodle dishes that are cooked quickly in front of you using fresh ingredients, as well as curries that have been made from scratch. Malaysian cuisine makes use of the diverse fresh ingredients and spices that are so readily available across the country.


Sugen's recipes from Malaysia

Ikan masak cili kering (dried chilli ginger fish)

This recipe was inspired by a chicken dish that Sugen first tried in Ipoh, in a restaurant that, sadly, has since closed down. When he came to the UK he wanted to try to make a version using cod, which is much more readily available here than in Malaysia. The meaty texture of the fish stands up well to the sweet, spicy sauce.

Chilli ginger fish in a pan with plates on the side


Ayam masak merah (red chicken)

In Malaysia, this is a special-occasion dish, something often eaten at weddings and other celebrations. If you don't want to cut the chicken up yourself, you can buy cuts of your choice, such as legs or thighs. Just be sure to buy skin-on and bone-in, as these add so much flavour. Ensure the pieces of chicken are similar sizes so they cook consistently.

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Three bowls of red chicken with rice


Cekodok pisang (banana fritters with cinnamon sugar)

This is a popular street food snack in Malaysia and a good way of using up very ripe bananas. The cinnamon sugar is a delicious addition to these vegan treats. These fritters are best eaten on the day they’re made and, better yet, while still warm.

A tray of banana fritters covered in sugar

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Sugen Gopal

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