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Try Turkish gözleme, then discover Turkish-style eggs, keşkek with aleppo pepper butter and gözleme with caçik, or Turkish ice cream (dondurma).

I adore gözleme. The origin of these stuffed flatbreads goes back thousands of years. Turkish yörüks (nomads) made gözleme as they travelled from Central Asia and settled in Anatolia, today’s Türkiye.

You can find gözleme all over the country, in street stalls, markets and cafés with a variety of fillings offered in each region. It can be enjoyed for breakfast with a cup of çay (tea), for lunch or as an wholesome all-day snack. I have happy memories of enjoying gözleme at street stalls at our farmers’ markets (pazar) with my dear father, Orhan. With glasses of çay in our hands, enjoying gözleme and watching a buzzing pazar, it always felt special. Traditionally cooked over a round sac griddle, it is one of the nation’s favourite snacks. It is also easy to make at home and versatile – mashed potatoes, cheese, chopped spinach, herbs and sautéed minced meat are some of the popular fillings. You can use a wide non-stick pan to cook your gözleme at home. If I am not making at home, I go to Tas Deli in London, which makes great gözleme.

Award-winning food writer and cookery teacher Özlem Warren was born and raised in Turkey, and is an expert in Turkish cuisine. Her latest cookbook, Sebze: Vegetarian Recipes from My Turkish Kitchen, is out now (£28, Hardie Grant).


Turkish gözleme recipe

  • 450g plain flour
    sifted, plus extra for dusting
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
    plus a drizzle
  • 40g butter (or plant-based alternative)

FILLING

  • 680g potatoes
    peeled and cut into 5cm chunks
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 medium onion
    thinly sliced
  • 150g spinach leaves
    chopped
  • ½ tsp pul biber

Nutrition: per serving

  • kcal516
  • fat19g
  • saturates6g
  • carbs74g
  • sugars2g
  • fibre5g
  • protein10g
  • salt1g
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Method

  • step 1

    Prepare the filling first. Put the potatoes in a medium pan, pour in enough boiling water to cover and add a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, partially cover and simmer over a medium heat for 20 mins until the potatoes are fully cooked. Drain and put in a large mixing bowl to cool for a few minutes, then add the cumin, season and mash until smooth.

  • step 2

    Heat the oil in a large, wide frying pan over a medium-high heat and cook the onion for 10-12 mins, stirring often, until softened and golden. Add to the mash along with the spinach and pul biber. Once cool enough to handle, combine everything with clean hands. Check the seasoning and add more salt or spices to taste, combining well. Cover and set aside.

  • step 3

    For the dough, put the flour in a large mixing bowl, make a well in the middle and sprinkle in 1 tsp of sea salt, add the oil and pour in 225ml of lukewarm water. With clean hands, combine to a rough dough. On a lightly floured worksurface, knead the dough for 2-3 mins to a smooth, semi-firm ball. Put in a bowl, coat with a drizzle of oil and cover with a damp kitchen towel. Rest for 20 mins.

  • step 4

    Put the dough on a lightly floured worksurface and divide into six pieces. Roll each into a ball and put them back in the bowl, covered with the damp towel to keep them moist. Take one dough ball out at a time and use a rolling pin to roll out to a 27cm circle, 1mm thick. Spread a sixth of the filling (about heaped 6 tbsp) evenly over one half of the circle, leaving a 2cm border. Fold the dough over to enclose the filling and make a half-moon shape. Gently pat the top of the gözleme to get rid of any air bubbles and press down the edges with your fingers to seal well (dust your fingers with a little flour if it gets sticky). Put on a tray side by side and cover with a clean kitchen towel so it won’t dry out. Repeat with the remaining dough balls and filling.

  • step 5

    Heat a large, wide non-stick pan over a high heat. Put a gözleme on the pan and cook for 1 min, then carefully flip over and cook the other side for another minute. Flip again and cook for 45-50 seconds (light brown circles will start to appear). Flip over again and cook for another 45 seconds. By now the gözleme should be cooked with visible light brown patches on the surface. Put the cooked gözleme on a clean tray and spread butter on both sides. Cover with a clean towel to keep moist and cook the rest of the gözleme in the same way. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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