On a hill overlooking Mousehole harbour, The Old Coastguard has one of the best sea views in Cornwall, with a bar that opens onto a huge summer terrace. The downstairs space is divided into an Upper Deck, which contains the restaurant and bar, and a Lower Deck, which is more loungy, with huge sofas and armchairs.

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What to eat Head chef Matt Smith uses great local ingredients for dishes such as Newlyn crab with gazpacho and fennel cracker; Primrose herd pork loin with pea and pancetta risotto and mustard crème fraîche. There are also bar snacks including ’nduja scotch eggs, and pork crackling with apple and mustard sauce.

Star suppliers The fishing village of Newlyn is two miles away and supplies most of the fish. Meat is from local butcher Harveys, veg and fruit from local farms, and cheese from Mounts Bay Dairy.

The booze Wines are served by the bottle, carafe or glass. Local beers and ales on tap include Rebel Brewing’s Penryn Pale Ale.

The bed The 14 bedrooms have been refurbished gradually. Eight have balconies with views of the harbour, and the vibe is cosy with luxurious beds, White Company toiletries and Roberts radios.

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The breakfast As well as pastries, fruit, yogurts and muesli, guests can order kedgeree, Welsh rarebit mushrooms or a full Cornish breakfast.

The bill doubles from £130 b&b, mains from £12.50. (oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk)


Written October 2015


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