My unexpected journey through Norway's fjords – saunas, seafood and striking views

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Juggling a black coffee in one hand and a cinnamon bun in the other, I look out across the ripples our boat is creating as it moves through the reflective waters of Hjørundfjord, and realise why Norwegians head to the fjords for restoration. The quiet in this particular valley is paired with a soaring, rugged beauty.

Around its edges it’s not unusual to see people diving into the water or climbing up its peaks. These wellness rituals – which encompass saunas too, of course – are themselves a wonderful match for a local food philosophy that brings people together over flatbreads, rich stews and bowls of cloudberries and lingonberries foraged on mountain hikes.

For a true taste of Norway – and to get up close with the country’s enviable bounty of seafood – the striking western fjords are the place to explore. Whether you’re arriving via Oslo or from the UK (flights are around five hours via Amsterdam), the views heading into the colourful, art nouveau port town of Ålesund will awe you. It’s from the sky that you’ll get the truest sense of the place, gazing down at countless islands and islets in the Norwegian Sea below. It’s the ideal springboard for a five- to seven-day trip, hopping from place to place, immersing yourself in the sublime landscapes and raw beauty of this extraordinary part of the world.

For a first meal that sets you up for a fjordic escape, book a table at Sjøbua. Taking over a handful of former fishing warehouses on the edge of the harbour, the restaurant leans into its history, serving some of the finest seafood on the west coast. One of the local catches is clipfish and you’ll find it here in its traditional form: salted and served as a croquette. The kitchen also crisps up its skin as an accompaniment to goat’s cheese and grayling roe. Order the prawns from nearby Midsund too. Naturally sweet and complex thanks to the ice-cold waters they’re caught in, they’re served simply with duxelles and burnt cream. The kitchen’s hero dish of halibut terrine with green peppers, white wine sauce and potato cakes is a polished take on a homely classic.

The next morning is an opportunity for your first cinnamon bun fix. The best I tried were at Butikken, an eye-catching, sage-green coffee shop and deli. Part of the lovely harbour side Brosundet hotel, it’s the place to grab a box of buns to go as an afternoon indulgence, as breakfast at the hotel is enormous and varied. Among prettily presented cereals, meat, fish and bread, you’ll find the Norwegian delicacy of brunost, a brown cheese. Made from caramelised whey, brown cheese is more sweet than savoury, with a pleasant malty, fudgy taste that pairs well with waffles and raspberry jam. Another morning regular you’re likely to spy is kaviar, a salty roe paste that comes in a toothpaste-like tube. I squeezed some on half a hard-boiled egg but even the Norwegians around us admitted it’s an acquired taste. From then on I stuck to the waffles.

From Ålesund, the closest fjord is Hjørundfjord, an uncrowded yet dramatic valley in the shadow of the towering Sunnmøre Alps. From a boat, the views impress whatever the weather: in winter the mountainsides transform into ski slopes, while spring and summer draw your eyes to the magnificent waterfalls and across to charming yellow and red wooden houses dotted along the water. The walking and biking routes along this valley are also much loved by locals – just remember to pack a bar of Kvikk Lunsj (which translates as ‘quick lunch’) in your coat pocket. Like a KitKat but better, it’s excellent hiking fuel.

Spend time with some Norwegians and you’ll quickly see how much food – and the rituals around serving and entertaining – matters. Sometimes this is by necessity: the harsh winters mean there’s a reverence around hot drinks.

These rituals are honoured at Union Øye, a wonderfully atmospheric 19th-century hotel at the end of one of Hjørundfjord’s passageways. As well as its gloriously grandiose interiors (think four-poster beds, roll-top baths and constant candlelight), a huge reason to stay here is its wooden sauna which floats on the fjord. Even in summer, diving into the water can be bracing – which makes the hotel’s signature hot chocolates, made with cognac, hand-whipped cream and squares of Freia Melkesjokolade chocolate, a welcome treat any day of the year. Come evening, its Palm Room bar serves a wonderfully sharp and bitter negroni, made using the local aquavit – a twist on tradition that’s well worth staying up late for.

Another important stop-off around this part of Norway is Skarbø, a cider and cheese farm run by husband and wife team Kristine and Carlos. As the oldest daughter, Kristine inherited her family’s eighth-generation farm beneath Smørhylla mountain and she’s quietly set about turning its produce into an award-winning brand that’s now served in many of the fjords’ best restaurants and hotels. The farm shop is open year-round but in summer the pair hosts tours, cider tastings and tapas evenings at the farm. These are held in an atmospheric centuries old outbuilding with a grass roof.

Before ducking through the door for lunch I spotted an unusual sculpture hanging on the side of the building. It turned out to be a curved rib of pork, air drying and aging ahead of a family celebration in a couple of months’ time. Inside, among antique crockery and farm tools, we ate steaming bowls of Kristine’s homemade cheese and cider soup. It was one of the most comforting things I’ve had in years and I regret not asking her for the recipe.

If Sjøbua is the perfect start to a coastal escape, then The Boathouse is a fitting finale. Run by the team behind the fabulously cosy Storfjord hotel, this restaurant occupies a former hanger down by the fjord’s edge (you can work up an appetite by kayaking from the same dock earlier in the day).

Open only on Friday evenings, its long-table group dinners are hosted by the hotel’s head chef Florian Harnisch, who cooks everything solo over an open hearth in front of you. And, wow, he can cook. On the night I dined he pulled together caviar and soured cream blinis; cooked oysters in cream and dill oil; langoustines in a deeply rich bisque topped with pickled pine shoots; bright scallops with cucumber and bergamot; and a fillet of reindeer served with jerusalem artichokes. Back up at the hotel’s main restaurant the fish soup and open prawn sandwiches served are just as refined in their simplicity – and its famed Sunday brunch tables are piled high with everything from gravlax to Norwegian-style fish tacos, all made with local catches. Trust me, after a meal here you’ll be grateful for the hotel’s variety of deep sofas and quiet corners.

Your foodie adventure doesn’t have to end here. For a final bite you can order a traditional hot dog, complete with crispy onions and mayo, at Ålesund airport – and then buy all the Moomins biscuits, Minde banana chocolates and blocks of brown cheese you can stuff into your hand luggage. If this trip teaches you anything it’s that you should make snacking a sacred ritual back at home.