Try Edd Kimber's rhubarb and custard cake, then discover his devil's food cake, lemon and lime tart, brown butter blueberry and oat milk chocolate blondies or black and white tahini cookies.
Rhubarb and custard is about as British as the victoria ways to showcase forced rhubarb, grown in the Rhubarb Triangle, a small area of Yorkshire close to where I grew up. Forced rhubarb differs from its chunkier cousin in how its grown: the roots are placed inside large sheds which are devoid of daylight and, in the dark, the rhubarb shoots up quickly in search of light. This sped-up growth leads to a more intense pink colour, a bright vibrant flavour and a less stringy texture.
To use this classic flavour pairing in a way that heroes the rhubarb I chose not to add lots of other competing flavours and to keep the whole thing light to make a perfectly spring-like cake. Made with a light genoise soaked with a vanilla milk syrup, it is filled with rhubarb jam and vanilla pastry cream, and, instead of a heavy, sweet frosting I opted for a mascarpone whipped cream. I was also inspired by Wayne Thiebaud – whose famous paintings of cakes and pies have inspired many a baker – and decorated the cake with nostalgic simplicity.
If you don’t have an instant-read thermometer you can test if the jam is ready by spooning a little onto a saucer you have chilled in the freezer for 15 mins. Wait a few seconds, then push the jam with your fingertip. If it wrinkles, the jam is ready.
Rhubarb and custard cake recipe