In a nutshell: An Edinburgh go-to for sharing plates of great curry matched with craft beer. Energetic, a slightly mad front man, a disco ball and strictly no mango chutney.
Who’s cooking? Chef Spencer Barrie previously of The Kenmore Hotel.
Menu know-how: The menu is a one pager with all the comedy puns you’d expect from celebrity owner, Scottish writer and broadcaster Hardeep Singh Kohli. Bubble & Sikh (spiced potato cake with seasonal greens) and a Full Indian to name a couple.
Must-order dishes: Staff curry – better the devil you know, this is the devil you don’t. On this occasion it was a crowd-pleasing chickpea curry that we were more than happy to share with the staff (£6.50). You must also try dhal makhani, a three lentil dhal, turtle beans, urad dhal and red kidney beans dish (£6.75), served in an enamel mug.
Mutton Achari (£6.50) was jam packed with flavour, the meat so tender that it melted in the mouth. You can order any Indian bread you like (chef cooks to order), and we’d recommend chapatti – the naan breads were huge, and too much to handle even between two.
Bhegan bartha, a smoked aubergine and pea curry, was another highlight (£6.50), as was the mixed pakora that greeted us on arrival (£8.50). We loved the obvious nod to Scotland, via a haggis and apple pakora. If you’ve got room for a pudding then the masala chai spiced doughnut is the best dessert on the menu (£5).
What we’re going back for: The disco ball, the dhal makhani which was so good, and to try the full Indian brunch (available at the weekend, 11-4pm).
What’s the room like? Long tables, vintage stools, factory lighting, exposed brick, graffiti and a soundtrack akin to TFI Friday. It’s cool, fairly loud, and you might think twice about taking your grandma.
Need to know: The food is served up in small enamel dishes that are made for sharing. Choose four or five between two to start – you can always go back for more.
What we loved: The fact that the staff really knew their stuff. We ordered flights of beer that were duly matched to the food we’d chosen. A glass of rich, deep black porter was perfect with mutton achari, and a red ale was a delight with the smoked aubergine. The food comes fast, too.
Fun fact: Ask for the booth with the disco ball near the entrance; you’ll be the centre of attention for a while.
Bullseye: VDeep have just launched their pop up/pick up. In other words, a selection of their lovely food is now available to take-away, and you can even pick up some tinnies at the same time.
Total bill: £48 for two including tip
60 Henderson Street, Edinburgh, EH6 6DE
0131 563 5293
By Hilary Sturzaker
Images by Paul Johnston at Copper Mango; and Hilary Sturzaker