Goat's cheese pizza with leeks and pancetta

To make the dough, put 445ml of warm water and the yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer and leave for a few minutes for the yeast to dissolve. Add 370g of the flour, all the rye flour and the wheat germ. Stir with a wooden spoon to combine, then cover and leave at room temperature for 1 hour 30 minutes.

Uncover the bowl and add 205ml of warm water, the remaining flour and the barley malt. Mix with a dough hook on low speed for 2 minutes. Add 1 tbsp of fine sea salt then mix on medium speed for 6-8 minutes or until the dough starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl – if it is not pulling away from the sides at all, throw in a small handful of flour to make it less sticky. While the dough is mixing, lightly oil a bowl large enough to hold the dough once it has doubled in size. Turn the dough out of the mixer into the oiled bowl. Cover and leave for 45 minutes.

Lightly dust a worksurface with flour and turn out the dough. Divide into six equal pieces, then gently tuck the edges of each pieces under itself. Cover the dough rounds with a clean tea towel and let them rest for 5 minutes. Lightly flour your hands and use both hands to gather each round of dough into a taut ball. Dust a baking sheet generously with flour and put the dough rounds on the baking sheet. Cover the baking sheet with the tea towel and leave them at room temperature for 1 hour to prove.

For the leeks, remove the roots, green leaves and any tough outer leaves. Cut into 8cm segments, half again lengthwise, then into julienned strips. Melt the butter with the olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium-low heat. Add the leeks, season with fine sea salt, and cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring often to prevent it from browning, until wilted and translucent. Put a pizza stone or thick baking sheet (upside-down) on the floor of the oven. Preheat the oven to 240C/fan 220C/gas 8 for 1 hour.

Generously flour a worksurface and lay out one round of dough. Dust lightly with flour, then use your fingertips to gently tap on the centre of the dough, stretching it outwards. Move the dough around and stretch until 25cm in diameter, then lay it back down on the flour-dusted worksurface. Dust a peel or chopping board with semolina and transfer the dough round onto this. Brush the rim of the dough with olive oil and season the entire surface with salt. Scatter 6 tbsp of the leeks over the surface of the pizza, leaving a 2-3cm rim without any toppings, and scatter over some of the spring onions. Break the cheese into 3cm chunks and scatter over the leeks and spring onions. Scatter the garlic cloves, if using, over the leeks. Cut the pancetta slices in half crosswise and rumple two halves onto each quadrant of the pizza.

Slide the pizza into the oven and bake for 8-12 minutes or until the cheese is melted and the crust is golden brown and crispy. Remove the pizza from the oven and sprinkle over the chives. Repeat with the remaining dough and toppings.