Best Welsh weekend breaks for food lovers
Check out where to go in Wales, from the city breaks in Swansea and Cardiff to rural escapes in Pembrokeshire
If you're looking to explore more of the UK, why not get to know Wales? There's plenty to discover in its unspoilt landscapes, whether you immerse yourself in buzzy Cardiff or Swansea for a city getaway, want to tick off hiking up Snowdonia, or spend days on the beach in Pembrokeshire. From classic fish & chips and ice cream to pan-Asian fusion, elaborate tasting menus, fresh seafood and even local wine – the food scene is thriving. Read on for our best Welsh weekend breaks, sharing our top recommendations of where to go and, most importantly, where to eat. For more UK travel inspiration, read our guides to the best UK islands for foodies to visit and the best small towns in the UK. Cardiff For a foodie weekend away, add Cardiff to your travel plans. As Wales's capital and largest city, there is plenty to see and do, including the iconic castle, walking along Cardiff Bay for waterfront views, and exploring the shops, markets and National Museum. Three weekly farmer's markets rotate around the city, showcasing over 100 local producers, farmers and artisans with plenty to eat as you browse. The buzzy food scene offers something for everyone and you can easily eat your way around the world within the city: try authentic Spanish cooking at Asador 44, Indian classics (and a whole tandoori roast chicken on a Sunday) at Purple Poppadom, or Thai fried chicken and rotis at buzzy Brother Thai. Can't decide? Go to Cardiff Market, a historic indoor market now filled with diverse street food kitchens. Save space for an elegant dinner at Gorse, a relative newcomer to Cardiff's food scene that quickly earned a Michelin star for its tasting menus, making the most of traditional Welsh ingredients such as laverbread and bara brith. Will you go for the four, seven or 10-course menu? Swansea A Welsh city break doesn't just have to mean Cardiff. Swansea, Wales' second-largest city, is undergoing something of a culinary renaissance with exciting new openings and classic institutions being rediscovered. Start your day at Little Valley Bakery: a passionate artisanal bakery using traditional methods and organic flour. The sausage rolls are Great Taste Award-winning, and your sweet tooth is well catered for with generous flapjacks, brownies and cinnamon buns. Anyone with a sweet tooth should visit Joe’s Ice Cream Parlour, a local spot since 1922, that now serves up modern flavours including Nutella Crunch, Cherrylicious and Biscoffi. The Shed by chef Jonathan Woolway is leading the charge in Swansea's culinary revolution with a daily changing menu that celebrates local producers, featuring seasonal dishes like roast pumpkin and laverbread soup, crispy pigskin and ketchup, and greengage trifle. It's not purely Welsh fare on offer though. Pan-Asian restaurant Muswanna champions Chinese, Japanese and Korean cooking with dishes like deep-fried king prawn won ton with crab roe, Japanese-style chicken curry udon, and beef ribs cooked in sake. Pembrokeshire The charming county of Pembrokeshire, in south-west Wales, has plenty to offer. Expect stunning scenery, beautiful beaches and Britain's smallest city, St David's. Foodies will also find 16th-century inns, tasting menus, fish bistros and lively taprooms to fuel all that exploring. Spending a day at the beach? Pick up fish and chips at long-running fish bistro The Shed, which overlooks the pretty quay of Porthgain. It's best known for fish and chips, but also has a fortnightly changing menu, which could include bouillabaisse or mussels. For fine dining, head to Grove of Narberth's Fernery restaurant for the seasonal five-course tasting menu that champions local produce. For dinner in a memorable location (as well as a pretty hotel), visit Penally Abbey in Tenby. Set on 12th century monastic ruins, the dining room features romantic gothic windows framing postcard perfect sea views. See our full guide to the best restaurants in Pembrokeshire for more must-visit spots. Angle, Pembrokeshire The tiny village of Angle in Pembrokeshire is worthy of an extra mention of its own. Nestled in the southwestern tip of Wales, Angle is wild, windswept and full of coastal charm. Two sandy bays are the main highlights: with golden sands, secluded coves and crystal clear waters that appear almost Mediterranean in summer. Walk the length of the bays and wide mudflats. West Angle Bay makes a great spot for wild swimming – a quick dip being most likely in these brisk water temperatures. Warm up afterwards with a breakfast bun or lobster roll at Cafe Môr on East Angle Bay, which is a first of its kind, solar-powered mobile seaweed kitchen. Check out our full guide to the 10 best lidos and outdoor pools in the UK for more wild swimming spots. Gwynedd Seafood Trail North Wales has always been known for its spectacular coastal views and colourful, quaint towns. Bangor University’s School of Ocean Sciences are out to showcase the best places to eat seasonal, locally caught seafood in the region. Split into three parts, Bangor & Caernarfon, Llŷn Peninsula, and Eifionydd & Meirionnydd, much of the Seafood Trail falls along the Wales Coast Path, a continuous footpath running the entire length of the Welsh coastline. No matter which route you decide to follow, there will be plenty of independent and seasonal-focused cafés and restaurants to fuel your journey. From Thai-style fishcakes at Llofft in Felinheli, to locally caught lobster at The Potted Lobster in Abersoch, it’s a seafood lovers’ hotspot. There’s also a chance to try some delicious Welsh lamb at Morfach in Caernarfon. If you’re looking for places to stay during a multi-day walking holiday, Llety Arall in Caernarfon is perfect for hikers and casual tourists. This community run establishment provides spacious rooms and a communal kitchen for guest use in the heart of Caernarfon. If you find yourself exploring the Llŷn Peninsula, The Lion Hotel in Criccieth is a well-placed stop-off for a night, with an excellent breakfast in the morning. Anglesey Anglesey is an island located off the northwest coast. Boasting over 120 miles of coastline, the island is renowned for its natural beauty, alluring beaches, historic sites like Beaumaris Castle, and landmarks like the Menai and Britannia bridges. It’s also known for great food, much of it unique to the island and using local produce. Seafood is naturally a highlight here. Anglesey's on the Menai Strait, which means fresh mussels, oysters and even lobster – head to The Lobster Pot to try it all, including lobster grilled, thermidor or mornay. Also harvested from the Strait is Halen Môn, or Anglesey Sea Salt, a quality salt used by chefs around the world for its unique taste. It makes the perfect souvenir to take home. Anglesey even produces wine; visit Red Wharf Bay Vineyard for a wine tasting where you can try their white, made from the Spanish Solaris grape, and red, made from the Rondo. Abergavenny Time a visit to Abergavenny for September and you'll be there for the famous Abergavenny Food Festival. The festival takes over the town with demos, debates, food stalls and outdoor feasts. For 2025, visiting chefs and food writers include Sami Tamimi, Thomasina Miers and Ixta Belfrage. But there's plenty for foodies to explore in Abergavenny whatever time of year you're visiting. The town is filled with independent shops and restaurants – visit the The Angel Bakery for seasonal fruit pastries and perfect artisanal baguettes, and head to The Marches Deli for local artisan produce, great cheese and hampers. The Kitchen at The Chapel is a casual stop-off for breakfast and lunch (don't miss the homemade soda bread) while the Michelin-starred Walnut Tree Inn is just outside town. Stay at the Angel Hotel, a Georgian former coaching inn in the centre of town. The menu features quality, locally sourced ingredients, with lavish home-cooked breakfast spreads and award-winning afternoon teas, enhanced by a dedicated tea sommelier. Snowdonia Looking for an active break in Wales? Tick something off your bucket list and head to Snowdonia to hike up Mount Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales and England. There are six paths up Snowdon. If this is your first time, the Llanberis Path is considered the easiest, with a total round trip distance of 9 miles, and a total climb of 975 metres. Check out our guide to the best walks in the UK for more hiking inspiration. The village of Llanberis at the foot of Snowdon makes a great base for a long weekend of hikes, sightseeing and food, with some good local places to eat. Further afield on the edge of Snowdonia, Palé Hall is nestled in a 50-acre estate with breathtaking views of the Dee Valley for a peaceful country house retreat, complete with fine dining restaurant and more casual bistro. The afternoon tea makes a great post-walk reward. Hay-on-Wye Hay-on-Wye is best known for being the first 'book town' in the world and home to the legendary literary festival, but it’s also carving out a name for itself on the culinary map. Chapters Restaurant has a menu that champions hyper-local, often homegrown, produce and was awarded a Michelin Green Star for its commitment to sustainability and zero-waste practices. Get back to nature with a glamping break in Hay-on-Wye that will immerse you in your surroundings. By the Wye is a riverside glamping retreat that lets guests embrace the wild without sacrificing comfort. Safari tents are hidden in the trees, raised on wooden platforms with views of River Wye below. Tents contain the essentials such as proper beds, hot showers and a wood burning stove, with room for up to five guests. You can order food hampers to your tent treehouse, such as breakfast deliveries or a barbecue feast. More travel inspiration... Best small towns across the UK every foodie should visit The UK's best pubs with rooms UK boutique hotels for food lovers 10 exciting UK city breaks for food lovers Best restaurants with rooms UK spa hotels for food lovers Best romantic UK hotels Best seaside staycations Best country hotels
25 small towns across the UK that every foodie should visit
From Welsh market towns with creative culinary gatherings to Yorkshire boroughs that are home to artisan roasters and gin distilleries, these are 10 of the best foodie towns across the UK for a staycation
Looking for UK staycations? Want to know the best towns for foodies? Check out our guide for the must-visit UK towns that every foodie should visit. Filled with must-try restaurants, bakeries and bars, there is something for everyone in 0ur gourmet picks – from an island getaway in Jersey to picturesque Bruton in Somerset's green rolling hills. For more travel inspiration, find out the best unique UK holiday cottages for foodies and check out our best gastropubs with rooms. Feeling active? See our picks of 10 unique walking holidays for foodies. If you're planning a summer holiday, check out our UK summer travel ideas. Totnes, Devon The market town of Totnes in Devon has some of the most progressive organic restaurants in the country. The Bull Inn is driving the charge with its ecological and social impact pledges, including commitments to “field grown, not flown”, mindful meat, seasonality and supplier-led organic food. Its inventive menu includes such dishes as roasted courgettes, whipped tahini, preserved lemon, pumpkin seed picada and basque cheesecake with plums. Eversfield organic farm shop & café has a menu of all-day brunch classics such as toasted banana bread with seasonal compote and Turkish eggs with warm chilli butter. The Totnes Sunday food market is the biggest in Devon offering up fine produce from local producers. For a taste of fine-dining, head to Gather which showcases locally sourced and wild foraged ingredients from Devon’s fields, shoreline, rivers and hedgerows. Where to stay: not just a restaurant, you can also stay at The Bull Inn. There are nine chic, minimally-designed rooms to choose from plus a four-bed self catering apartment (with it's own private terrace) that is ideal for larger groups. Doubles from £165, check availability at booking.com Alnwick, Northumberland The market town of Alnwick, famous for its historic castle, is quietly becoming something of a culinary hotspot. New fine-dining restaurant Sonnet serves up a tasting menu inspired by ingredients from small local farmers, producers of rare-breed meats and British fine food makers. Alnwick Brewery Co & Taproom has been producing traditional brown ales and IPAs since the 1860s, and is a lively hangout that regularly hosts food trucks from local establishments like Caribbean Ren’s Kitchen. The Bistro at The Cookie Jar is a relaxing restaurant serving up local produce in dishes such as tempura cod cheeks with spicy pea purée and chorizo crisps, and homemade ice creams and sorbets. And Jasper’s Bistro, in nearby Amble, is an intimate seafood restaurant with just six tables, specialising in locally landed lobster, crab and langoustines, with an excellent wine list. Check out our full guide to the best restaurants in Northumberland for more. Falmouth, Cornwall Falmouth in Cornwall is famous for its scenic natural harbour and stunning views, and is now also something of a culinary hotspot. Perched on the rocks overlooking Swanpool beach is new seafood restaurant Beach House Falmouth, which is centred around a menu of fresh, local and sustainably sourced seafood. It serves delicious dishes like whole grilled Falmouth Bay crab with garlic butter, shell-on wild prawns with ’nduja, and fried oysters with aïoli. Harbour House, just over the bay in Flushing, is a waterside pub with a focus on seasonal dishes and local drinks. Its menu includes Fowey scallops from the grill, beef short rib cottage pie, and kedgeree scotch eggs with curry mayonnaise. Located between Mylor and Flushing, Food Barn is a weekly market with more than 20 stalls that champion local, sustainable food from traders like Allet Dairy, Penny’s Pies, Loveday distillery and Ruby June’s Indian Kitchen. Sabzi’s Deli serves up Cornish and British produce cooked into Middle Eastern-inspired dishes, like local roasted Savoys with sumac, butter beans and fresh herb chutney, and spiced roasted carrots with whipped tahini. Settle, Yorkshire Dales This historic market town and the villages of surrounding Ribblesdale and Malhamdale are cultivating quite the food scene. In Settle, foodies are buzzing about the hip, crisply executed small plates at chef Iain Graham’s The Nettle restaurant. Elsewhere, refresh at High Street Coffee, micropub Millers @ Bar 13 or the Talbot Arms freehouse. For food shopping visit butcher and expert pie maker, Drake & Macefield, homewares store (and cute café) Car and Kitchen, Tuesday’s town market and Settle Artisan Market (second Sunday, monthly). Heading into the surrounding countryside, Lay of the Land is a small garden centre whose café, led by chef Jimmie Lay, is much-loved by discerning locals. As is Town End Farm Shop, a crucial outlet for regional artisan foods, including owner Chris Wildman’s charcuterie. Just a few miles from Settle, Austwick is home to the well-regarded hotel restaurant The Traddock and nationally significant food hub The Courtyard Dairy. The dairy retails up to 50 carefully matured cheeses from small farmhouse producers, houses a cheese museum and hosts events and cheese-making courses. It also shares its Crows Nest Barn location with pizzeria Rind, natural wine shop Buon Vino and artisan bakery Ambry. Folkestone, Kent The coastal town of Folkestone in Kent offers a unique blend of creativity, seaside charm, and hidden foodie hotspots which are lesser known than some of its trendy seaside neighbours such as Margate and Rye. The Folkestone Harbour Arm is home to an outdoor array of shipping containers which have been converted into independent food businesses, offering everything from fresh oysters and champagne to global street food, all set against the backdrop of stunning sea views. Highlights include poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes), and inventive cocktails. For a relaxed family meal, head to Rocksalt, where local produce takes centre stage in dishes like Romney Marsh lamb and Folkestone-caught mackerel. Folkestone's Creative Quarter, brims with live music, tapas, cafés and Kentish beers and wine. In the evening, discover strong and perfectly-formed cocktails at The Potting Shed which will transfer you back-in-time to the vibrant 1920s. Where to stay: Shoreline Holiday rentals are the ideal base for exploring Folkestone. Each property is thoughtfully styled, offering luxurious yet cozy interiors, well-equipped kitchens, and private balconies with sweeping views of the English Channel. Perfect for families and couples alike, there’s two and four-bedroom beach houses on offer, all within walking distance of beaches, galleries, and restaurants. Jersey, Channel Islands A short hop from the UK (or France), Jersey, famous for its prized potatoes, oysters and rich custard-yellow cream – is having a gourmet revival. Restaurant pêtchi, from island-raised chef and Great British Menu finalist Joe Baker, is leading the charge. Its menu celebrates the abundance of the island’s local seafood with dishes such as Chancre crab and seaweed tarts, and a signature wood-roasted lobster rice. JEJE, housed in St Helier’s historic fish market, specialises in fresh sushi and Korean-inspired dishes made using the daily catch. Over on St Ouen’s Bay is SANDS, whose menu is inspired by Australasian and Californian coastal cuisine, with homemade tacos and sodas like its apricot/cardamom and lychee/vetiver. And for a nightcap head to The Porter’s Store, a stylish speakeasy with live music and cocktail masterclasses on offer. Reigate, Surrey Reigate has had an influx of foodie establishments in recent years, making it well worth a visit. Lebnani – from chef Jad Youssef – is leading the charge. Its menu is inspired by the food of Beirut with traditional meze and charcoal grills designed for sharing, using the finest spices, herbs and grains from Lebanon, combined with local ingredients. Chalk Hills Bakery makes artisan breads that use traditional long-fermenting methods, each kneaded by hand, including sourdough with potato, rosemary and nigella seeds. The Chapel is an independent café specialising in perfectly brewed coffee, open sandwiches and sausage brioche rolls using meat from local family butcher Robert & Edwards. And New Gurkha Kitchen serves up authentic Nepalese cuisine, like Gurkha aloo (potatoes with turmeric and cumin), Kathmandu chicken and Nepalese-style chow – stir-fried noodles with spices. Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire Famous for its spirited community ethos which has attracted writers and artists for decades, Hebden Bridge in West Yorkshire is now a hotbed for culinary creatives. At its heart is Kitchen 91, a micro-bakery and dining room in a converted weaver’s warehouse specialising in Italian cuisine with sustainability at its core. Independent cooperative Valley Organics sells ethically sourced ingredients from local producers, and Goo Cheese has a range of more than 100 British and continental cheeses with an emphasis on lesser known cheesemakers. Stylish contemporary restaurant Coin is the best spot for dinner, serving small plates such as Crown Prince squash, rocket, Loch Arthur yogurt and smoked almonds alongside an extensive list of natural wines. For a night cap, lively bottle shop Drink (open until 10pm) has a range of regional craft ales, fruit sours and cloudy gose beers from across the county. Bruton, Somerset Picturesque Bruton is nestled among Somerset's green rolling hills and has become a something of magnet for unconventional chefs and arty culinary creatives in recent years, turning the once quiet market town into a foodie hot spot. At the Chapel – a Grade II listed restaurant-gallery-hotel hybrid – takes pride of place in the centre of Bruton high street, serving a Mediterranean menu that heroes West Country produce and a wine store filled with organic, biodynamic vintages. Durslade Farm Shop showcases artisan makers and growers of Somerset in the chic Hauser & Wirth Gallery. The Newt country estate hosts seasonal gastronomic events such as foraging masterclasses and artisan cyder tasting in its orchard. And Michelin-starred restaurant Osip, fronted by chef Merlin Labron-Johnson, has removed all menus entirely – asking diners to put their faith in the hands of its masterful chefs. Where to stay: Number One Bruton is a revamped Georgian townhouse that offers 12 bedrooms and a sense of playfulness behind the polish. In the Georgian townhouse itself, designers Frank & Faber have decorated the bedrooms with a tasteful riot of pattern on pattern, plus period fireplaces and gilt mirrors. For a more modern feel, a trio of cottages behind the main house (overlooking the courtyard garden) have simple white bathrooms, quarry-tiled floors and neutral colour schemes, reflecting their former status as workshops. Breakfast, taken in Osip (see above), is totally unique in terms of its offerings. Try vanilla-spiked rice pudding topped with homemade granola and a spoonful of toffee-ish milk jam; still-warm boiled egg cradled in a little nest of hay; pheasant terrine and chutney on freshly baked sourdough; or a sliver of jammy pear and quince tart. Check rates and availability at numberonebruton.com Lyme Regis, Dorset Affectionately known as the pearl of Dorset, thanks to its beautiful bay, the areas surrounding Lyme Regis are also rich in culinary delights. The Seaside Boarding House, overlooking Lyme Bay, champions local Dorset produce and has a guest series with a host of exciting chefs including Jeremy Lee, Rick Toogood and Abby Lee. The Parlour at Bredy Farm offers Italian small plates like Tuscan fish stew with Dorset clams and courgettes alla poverella. And Rachels in West Bay is a beach side hut with fresh local seafood platters, moules and chowder, plus it gets our vote for the best fish and chips in the area. Stockbridge, Scotland Perched on the Water of Leith river and blessed with eye-catching architecture, this hip, upmarket inner suburb is a very pleasant 25-minute walk from central Edinburgh. Beyond its period charms (check cobbled Insta fave, Circus Lane), it is also a tasty place to eat. Acclaimed fine dining restaurants eòrna and Avery, which previously operated in San Francisco, rub shoulders with ambitious gastropub, the Scran & Scallie, cool basement small plates joint, Skua, and the Last Word Saloon, sister bar to legendary cocktail spot, Bramble. Wine geeks will love pace-setting wine bar, Smith & Gertrude (do not miss its grilled Montgomery cheddar sandwich) and the shopping opportunities at treasure trove, Raeburn Fine Wines, Vino and newcomer, Communique Wines. To accompany those wines, food shop at Stockbridge Market (Sundays) or cheesemongers IJ Mellis or George Mewes. Before the steep climb back into Edinburgh, refuel on next-level croissants at revered bakery, Lannan, or take a moment in craft beer haven, Stockbridge Tap, or Edinburgh Cider Co’s The Cider House. Aldeburgh, Suffolk Aldeburgh, a small seaside town in Suffolk, is famous for its annual food and drink festival, and something of a hot gastronomic ticket. The Lighthouse serves simple home-cooked fare with a neighbourhood vibe – including its very own Lighthouse 77 gin, which includes botanicals such as heather and liquorice. Sea Spice is a beautiful restaurant that combines local Suffolk produce with flavourful Indian cooking. The beach is lined with shacks selling boxes of prawns and smoked fish from local artisans including Butley Oysterage. And, like all great coastal towns, there’s the iconic Aldeburgh Fish & Chips made the traditional Suffolk way – fried in beef dripping! Be it colour palettes and decorative touches inspired by the Suffolk countryside or a guest pantry where you can pour yourself a complimentary cocktail, every detail of six-bedroom The Suffolk has been carefully considered. Enjoy the rooftop sea-view terrace, then head down to the restaurant, where chef Tom Payne makes impressive use of Suffolk produce, such as Gressingham duck or Dingley Dell pork. From Butley Creek oysters to lemon sole in Pernod garlic butter, seafood is prominent. Check rates and availability at the-suffolk.co.uk Malton, Yorkshire There’s so much going on in Yorkshire’s food capital of Malton right now. Those serious about their food won’t be disappointed. Over a four year period, 26 food and drink businesses have set up shop here. Many cluster around Talbot Yard – a former stables – which now houses an artisan roaster, Roost, the Bluebird Bakery, the Groovy Moo gelateria, macaron-maker Florian Poirot, the Rare Bird Gin Distillery and a butcher, Food 2 Remember. Other dates for the diary include the Malton Harvest Food Festival in October, and the monthly food markets. These events bring together the wider area’s exceptional producers’ including Malton Cider, cheese from Botton Creamery, chutneys from Sloemotion and lots more. Where to stay: Talbot Inn (owned – like much of Malton – by aristocrat Tom Naylor-Leyland and his glamorous wife and Vogue-contributor Alice) has relaxed décor, in a glamorous, playful sort of way. Ex-Lucky Onion stalwarts, Georgie and Sam Pearman, spruced up the 26-bedroomed Talbot, bringing a modern style to the imposing 17th-century coaching inn, resulting in oak-floored rooms where modern art and antique finds rub alongside ancestral portraits. Eating is when and where you want. Already savoured the views of the watermeadows from the plant-draped Garden Room? Curl up by the log fires in the Snug, or slouch into a leather armchair beneath the wall-mounted wild boar in the navy-walled Upper Bar. Wherever you sit, jeaned and Converse-sneakered waiting staff miraculously appear. Doubles at Talbot Inn from £96 per night, check availability at booking.com Studland, Dorset The village of Studland, on the Isle of Purbeck in Dorset, is gathering a reputation as a beach destination with discerning culinary clout. Shell Bay Restaurant & Bistro – on the tip of the Jurassic Coast – is a scenic sunset-watching spot that specialises in open-fire cooking. Its exciting menu champions local lobster, bass and Poole Bay oysters, with dishes including fire-roasted miso and yuzu cod and pepper soft-shell crab with smoked pineapple chilli sauce. The Pig on the Beach has a walled kitchen garden and is committed to home-grown produce with its 25-mile menu, serving veg picked that morning and transformed into dishes such as marinated beetroot with spiced hazelnut crumb and blood orange. Across the water from Studland in Poole is Thirteen from head chef Alex Naik, whose tasting menus combine locally sourced and foraged ingredients – courses might include the likes of mushroom tom kha soup with seaweed noodles, velvet shank and oysters, and thyme panna cotta with orange jelly, ginger gel and clementine powder. And Bankes Arms is a pub by the sea that’s also home to the award-winning Isle of Purbeck Brewery – serving up the likes of Studland Bay Wrecked, Solar Power, Fossil Fuel and Purbeck IPA. Moreton-in-Marsh, Cotswolds In the Evenlode Valley, within the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the market town of Moreton-in-Marsh makes an ideal base for a ‘foodie’ trip. A short hop from popular villages and towns such as Daylesford (famous for its organic farm, shop and restaurant), Chipping Norton and Stow-on-the-Wold, it benefits from good public transport links including direct trains to London. The main street is lined with handsome stone buildings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, many of them shops, tea rooms, pubs and places to eat. There are plenty of places to stay the night, including the White Hart Royal, a former manor house where King Charles I took refuge during the Civil War. The main public building is the Redesdale Hall which holds antiques and craft fairs, and there’s a weekly Tuesday street market. When it comes to eating out, Henne is highly regarded by the locals with its inventive and sustainably driven menu using hyper-local produce. If it’s artisan bread and patisserie you’re after, Otis & Belle bakery is exceptional and The Cotswold Cheese Company sells countless local cheeses. A short drive out of town is the Michelin-starred Royal Oak at Whatcote. Tisbury, Wiltshire In Wiltshire’s pretty Nadder Valley, Tisbury is more village than town yet still packs a punch when it comes to eating and drinking. On its edge the Grade I thatched Tithe Barn has been converted into Messum’s, a contemporary art gallery where the Mess Restaurant offers much more sophisticated fare than your standard museum café. In the morning Genius Coffea, on the High Street, is the first port of call. For sustenance to go with it, continue on to Tisbury Deli where the shelves prop up goodies from croissants to pork pies. Pick up a bottle to go with your supplies from <The Beckford Bottle Shop, where you can try-before-you-buy and get expert advice from staff. Pythouse Kitchen Garden should be on everyone’s radar too; not only for the first-rate restaurant but because the company’s glamping village, tucked away in the orchard, is the perfect place to stay. Where to stay: Pubs in the area are plentiful but few focus on food; the exception is The Beckford Arms where you’ll need to book to get ahead of the locals who come for a Beckford Bloody Mary and stay on for Sunday lunch. Doubles from £91 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com North Berwick, Scotland There’s a food revolution underway in the seaside town of North Berwick, just half an hour from Edinburgh by train along the East Lothian coast. Millennials priced out of the city have de-camped to the coast bringing with them a demand for flat whites and sourdough – which they get at Steampunk Coffee Roasters and the <Bostock Bakery. The croissants at the latter are so good that NOMA’s René Redzepi sent his pastry chef from Copenhagen to learn from Bostock’s Ross Baxter. For seafood, try Lobster Shack – a seasonal operation on the harbour that cooks its catch from the neighbouring Firth of Forth Lobster Hatchery between Easter and October; the lobster and crab bisque is exceptional and the Shack is licensed so you can order a glass of crisp white to go with it. A blustery and beautiful walk out of town brings you to shipping container turned coffee shop DRIFT, perched on an outcrop above Canty Bay; sit in and order the bacon and egg sandwich with herby aioli. Where to stay: Stay just out of town, in Gullane, at The Bonnie Badger, Tom and Michaela Kitchin’s restaurant with rooms. Doubles from £236 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Deal, Kent Kent’s coastal towns are smartening up, luring in a hip London crowd who steer south on fast trains. Whilst foodies still love Whitstable, Deal is the buzzy new kid on the block. Find everything from Kent’s favourite chippie, Middle Street Fish Bar to date-night-dining at Victuals & Co. where the Raid the Larder menu on Sunday evenings is particularly good value. The Deal Dining Club is an institution and its Friday and Saturday night set-menu feasts always sell out; typical events include a Taste of Kent, with a menu boasting Canterbury cheese puffs, Kentish brown shrimp, local pigeon, home-smoked haddock and rhubarb crème brulee. It’s BYOB so pick up a bottle beforehand at Le Pinardier, a French wine bar and shop with an array of predominantly natural wines. Where to stay: Cross the road to The Rose where the seasonal cocktails are invented by local forager and chef, Lucia Stuart, who also runs excursions such as a Berry Bonanza Wilderness Picnic via The Wild Kitchen. As well as a bar, restaurant and pretty courtyard garden, The Rose has eight artfully-designed bedrooms. It’s worth staying for breakfast – the sourdough toast with pear and ginger jam is scrumptious. Doubles from £167 per night, check availability at booking.com Orford, Suffolk The Suffolk town of Orford may have kick-started its foodie reputation with the opening of the renowned Pump Street Bakery (a visit to its Suffolk-pink premises for breakfast pastries is a must) but the business has done a pivot into artisan chocolate-making so save space to try one of their artisan bars too. Proximity to the shingly coastline means the town is also home to two excellent seafood spots, fixtures since the 1950s – Butley Oysterage, a smart restaurant serving up plump oysters and griddled prawns dripping in garlic butter, and the sister shop, Pinney’s, where you can buy smoked fish, potted crab and angels on horseback to take away. If you’re visiting in September, Orford also makes a great base for exploring Aldeburgh Food Festival – confusingly not in Aldeburgh town but, rather, at nearby Snape Maltings, the Victorian red-brick malt kilns turned world-famous concert halls that sit amongst the reedbeds on Suffolk’s river Alde. It’s a great setting to learn, among other things, how to make bread courtesy of Marriage’s Bakery Room. Where to stay: Orford’s pub, the The Crown and Castle, promises smart bedrooms overlooking Orford’s 12th century castle, or there’s the Wash House Studio B&B – stay in a sweet shepherd’s hut or the converted wash house next to the coastguards cottages and wake up to find a breakfast hamper covered with a gingham cloth on your doorstep in the morning. Doubles at The Crown and Castle from £122, check availability at booking.com Abergavenny, Wales Abergavenny Food Festival takes place each September and is one of the most creative and dynamic culinary gatherings in the UK, also one of the longest running. Regulars come for talks by Diana Henry and Bee Wilson, Dinner Party masterclasses with Rosie Birkett and Elly Pear, vegan BBQing tips from Matt Pritchard, debates on sustainable farming, a children’s cookery school and outdoor feasts based around wild cooking. Beyond the festival, you’ll find a quiet market town packed with independent shops like The Angel Bakery, which serves seasonal fruit pastries and perfect artisanal baguettes. Pair one of the latter with a ploughman’s hamper from The Marches Deli (it includes three Welsh cheeses, local chutney, Cradocs crackers and Welsh ale). The top table in town for breakfast and lunch is at The Kitchen at The Chapel where soda bread is baked each morning and might be served with pumpkin, butter bean and olive oil soup and a local craft cider, while the Michelin-starred Walnut Tree Inn is just outside town. Where to stay: Stay at Old Lands in one of three pretty holiday cottages set within converted stables and barns on an old family estate. There’s a walled garden and an on-site micro farm shop and guests can book children into Forest School, go on a nature walk or take a rowing boat out to an island on the estate’s lake. Check rates and availability at old-lands.co.uk Clitheroe, Lancashire The Lancashire market town of Clitheroe, in the Forest of Bowland, is the hub of Lancashire’s Ribble Valley. You’ll find a heaving cheese counter at Holmes Mill, Clitheroe’s monumental new food hall, and regional produce galore at Booths. Dip into independent food shops, such as Cowman’s Famous Sausage Shop, which sells over 70 varieties. Then go for a walk on Pendle Hill, followed by lunch at the Assheton Arms in Downham. Where to stay: Stay over at Freemasons At Wiswell, just south of town. As well as a chef’s table experience the dining pub has added bedrooms; enjoy Herdwick lamb with aubergine and miso purée, and a superlative vanilla slice, then stumble into bed. Or head half an hour out of town to remote Dale House, a 400-year-old farm. One of its owners used to work as a chef for the Roux brothers so expect standout breakfasts and sumptuous (zero-mile) dinners, such as venison haunch steak with blackberries followed by homemade eccles cakes. Doubles from £160 per night, check availability at freemasonsatwiswell.com Porthleven, Cornwall Almost as far southwest as you can get in England, Porthleven is a pretty Cornish port that greets you with waving sailing flags and colourful buoys bobbing in the water (and a medley of carefully curated food stalls if you time a trip to tie in with the annual Porthleven Food Festival each spring). It may be a tiny town, but the food scene is growing at pace here – think Padstow thirty years ago. Current highlights include Origin, a coffee roasters that started here but now has shops in Shoreditch, Edinburgh, the British Library and Southwark too. Next door is Kota Kai which serves Thai tapas and forms a more relaxed little sister to Kota restaurant, up the road. Run by half-Maori, half Chinese Malay chef, Jude Kereama, Kota (meaning ‘shellfish’ in Maori) serves Cornish seafood with Asian and Kiwi influences; think pan-fried hake, crab ravioli, Cornish mussels and tiger prawns in a vegetable dashi broth or Porthilly oyster tempura with wasabi tartare. Try the tasting menu and then stumble upstairs to bed. Where to stay: Kota has two bedrooms above it so you don’t need to leave town. Alternatively rent a picture-perfect thatched cottage on the nearby Trelowarren Estate, also home to the excellent New Yard restaurant. Bridport, Dorset It’s over fifteen years since Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall turned the spotlight on field-to-fork dining in Dorset, with the River Cottage, and West Dorset is now a firmly foodie pocket of the UK. Exciting things are happening in the market town of Bridport. A vibey Asian street food joint might be the last thing you’d expect to stumble on up a small-town alley, but Dorshi is exactly that. The name (“Dorset-sushi”) stems from the founders’ days spent doing a roaring trade out of a food truck. Now in a bricks-and-mortar restaurant the menu is all about dumplings, buns, zingy salads and noodle bowls. Likewise the Soulshine Café is on-the-button with superfood spirulina smoothies, oat milk lattes and a vegan full English on the menu – meat-eaters needn’t worry you’ll find sausage sarnies here too. For a sweet treat visit Baboo Gelato where the ice cream is award-winning – try the plum sorbet. Just outside the town visit Washingpool Farm, home to one of the region’s best farm shops (it stocks its own veggies as well as other local produce, like North Perrott apple juice and Dorset Cereals. Where to stay: Stay further up the sands at the Seaside Boarding House, a hip hotel with unrivalled views over Lyme Bay, elegant modern cooking and a grown-up line in cocktails. Ashburton, Devon Dartmouth and Salcome might get all the attention in Devon’s southernly corner, but look inland for fewer crowds and great food spots. Ashburton, on the edge of Dartmoor, is home to the famed Ashburton Cookery School where over 40 classes are offered from a five-day patisserie week to a three-hour Indian cook-to-go and a recently introduced range of Christmas classes, from festive breadmaking to party canapés and chocolate advent calendar workshops. If you’d rather leave the hard work to the experts, the award-winning Ashburton Deli is the place to go, stocked with the best produce from across the West. Ten minutes’ out of town, meanwhile, brings you to Riverford, the organic farming champions – visit their home turf for lunch or supper at The Riverford Field Kitchen where the set veggie menu is about as close to farm-to-fork as can be. Where to stay: Stay at the Live and Let Live pub where there’s excellent provenance-orientated food and three bright and airy bedrooms. Kendal, Lake District But for its eponymous mint cake, Kendal is not known for its food. It is overlooked entirely by many visitors who, alighting at Oxenholme station or racing past from the M6, head straight for the Lakes’ better-known hot spots. This is a mistake. The food and drink scene in this handsome market town is on a flavour-packed roll at casual dining spots such as Comida, Marra 46, Pappy’s Texas BBQ, Baba Ganoush and exciting small plates restaurant, Ramble, run by wine-maker, Northern Wine. It is home to two mega breweries, Lakes Brew Co, which hosts street food traders at its monthly brew-tap, and Fell (check its bar and new arts venue, Glisky). Kendal also boasts award-winning butcher, Roast Mutton, a carefully curated, twice-monthly farmers’ and artisan-makers’ market (second/last Fridays), and, just outside town, one of Britain’s best bakeries, Lovingly Artisan – a neighbour to, among other food businesses, Plumgarths farm shop. Is Kendal Cumbria’s tastiest town? Quite possibly. Where to stay: 20-minutes drive from Kendal, Gilpin Hotel & Country House in Windermere offres luxurious bedrooms with lakeside views, and an on-site Michelin-starred restaurant that puts an Asian twist on Cumbrian dining. Doubles from £335 per night, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Words by Daisy Allsup Photographs by Clare Hargreaves, Weekend Journals, Rhiannon Batten, Helen Cathcart, Keiko Oikawa More travel guides Best country house hotels in the UK Best health and wellness retreats Best hotels in London Best UK boutique hotels Best hotels in the Cotswolds Best Cornwall hotels Best hotels in the Lake District Best London hotel bars to visit Best romantic hotels in the UK European hidden gems: hotels off the beaten track Best Paris hotels Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best restaurants with rooms in the UK Best Amsterdam hotels
Best restaurants in Pembrokeshire: where a local eats in south-west Wales
Discover the best of this charming south-west Wales county, with its frequent celebrations of local produce and all the beautiful beaches you could dream of
Looking for the best restaurants, bars and café's in Pembrokeshire? We asked Welsh food and drink writer Kacie Morgan for her top recommendations. In Pembrokeshire you'll find 16th-century inns, tasting menus, fish bistros and lively taprooms. For more Welsh inspiration, browse our guide to the best Welsh weekend breaks. Or check out more local city tips in the best restaurants in Cardiff and best restaurants in Glasgow. Best places to eat and drink in Pembrokeshire Fernery at Grove of Narberth, Molleston – for fine dining One of three Welsh Michelin Key hotels, Grove of Narberth’s Fernery restaurant champions local produce. Exec chef Douglas Balish’s seasonal five-course tasting menu includes dishes like Meat Matters, named after the Gower butcher that provides the dairy beef, and Atlantic Edge – turbot fillet with Angle Bay oyster velouté. Paired with expert wine or non-alcoholic selections, it’s an unforgettable fine-dining experience. ferneryrestaurant.co.uk The Old Point House and Café Môr, Angle – for seafood Driving across the rocky road to seaweed-strewn East Angle Bay you might wonder if you’ve taken a wrong turn – but this 16th-century inn is worth the journey. Inside, the log burner roars as local band, Barti Waves – named after owner Jonathan Williams’ seaweed-infused Barti Rum – strum their guitars. The seafood-inspired menu includes classics from award-winning Café Môr – think lobster rolls and Atlantic Edge oysters. On Sundays, feast on Pembrokeshire lobster rarebit and roast lamb dinners with seaweed-buttered greens. theoldpointhouse.wales The Shed, Porthgain – for beer-battered fish and chips Long-running fish bistro The Shed overlooks the quay in picturesque Porthgain. Best known for its beer-battered fish and chips, it boasts a fortnightly changing à la carte menu studded with classics like cockle popcorn, bouillabaisse and mussels. Owner Rob and son Jack land their own fish and shellfish daily (depending on the weather), while head chef Sean Phillips thoughtfully sources the rest of his fish from local fisherman, Mark Davies. theshedporthgain.co.uk Rib & Oyster, Kilgetty – for fresh fish and grass-fed meat After selling fish from his van during lockdown, fisherman Gavin Davies opened a fishmonger and butcher with his wife, Lucy, in 2021. A few months later they added some tables. Four years on this Pembrokeshire hotspot counts Marco Pierre White among its regulars. The seasonal menu prioritises local, wild-caught fish and high-welfare, grass-fed meat. Choose from daily changing fresh fish and specials alongside steaks, burgers and platters. ribandoyster.com Lan y Môr, Saundersfoot – for Welsh cooking with coastal views Previously Coast, Lan y Môr (‘land and sea’ in Welsh) brings together Hywel Griffith of the Beach House, Oxwich, and Gerwyn Jones (ex-Grove of Narberth). Share small plates like Selwyn’s Gower ‘frockles’ (fried cockles), Snowdonia Cheese rarebit and Carmarthenshire charcuterie; or indulge in PGI Welsh beef and lamb steaks, alongside Copper Bay salmon, all while admiring the sweeping views of Coppet Hall Beach. lanymorsaundersfoot.co.uk Paternoster Farm, Hundleton – for farm-to-fork dining Hidden down a bumpy track in Hundleton, near Pembroke, Paternoster Farm offers farm-to-fork dining. Set within a converted milking parlour, the fixed menu offers six sharing plates crafted by self-taught chef, Michelle Evans. Each dish is made using the farm’s own produce and ingredients from trusted local suppliers. Standout plates include three cheese, buffalo and fennel arancini, and Mangalitza porchetta with lentil vinaigrette and salsa verde. @paternoster_farm Blas at Twr y Felin Hotel, St David’s – for contemporary dining Wales’ first contemporary art hotel, Twr y Felin (‘mill tower’) is built on an old windmill in Britain’s smallest city, St David’s. Blas (‘taste’) is led by chef Sam Owen, whose creativity shines in à la carte dishes like Hispi cabbage with smoked crème fraîche, cider, pickled mustard and miso; and halibut with jerusalem artichoke, hen of the woods mushrooms and mussel sauce. twryfelinhotel.com Penally Abbey, Tenby – for local produce in a romantic setting Set on 12th-century monastic ruins, Penally Abbey boasts romantic gothic windows framing postcard perfect sea views. Once home to the Jameson whiskey distillers, it’s now a labour of love for the Boissevain family. At Rhosyn (Welsh for ‘rose’), breakfast highlights include Glamorgan sausages and laverbread hash browns, with lavish afternoon teas replacing lunch. In the evening, à la carte and tasting menus spotlight locally sourced, foraged ingredients. penally-abbey.com The Griffin, Dale – for local and sustainable seafood Few deliver on local produce like Dale’s 300-year-old The Griffin, where you can watch local fisherman Mark Gainfort land his catch as you eat simple, honest seafood. Fifteen years ago, Simon Vickers left architecture for a life by the sea with wife Sian. Try king prawns with sundried tomato sauce or steamed, wild-caught john dory with cockle and bacon sauce. Buy a sauce and relive the experience at home. griffindale.co.uk Llys Meddyg, Newport – for foraged ingredients from the shores Set within a Grade II listed Georgian coach house with a secret garden, Llys Meddyg works with local suppliers like Cig Lodor farm, which provides Dexter beef and Preseli x Texel lamb. The menu offers refined dishes guided by seasonal and foraged produce. After dinner, enjoy a cocktail in the Cellar Bar before retreating to your room. Nearby at Pwllgwaelod Beach, Llys Meddyg’s new 16th-century pub, Sailors’ Safety, offers unmissable seafood. llysmeddyg.com More places to eat and drink in Pembrokeshire Velfrey Vineyard, Lampeter Velfrey – for Welsh wine tours and tastings Farmers Andy and Fiona Mounsey swapped livestock for vines in 2017, planting 3,500 pinot noir and seyval blanc varieties, followed by 500 solaris a year later. Rooted in south-facing clay loam – common to top wine regions – these cool climate varieties flourish in Pembrokeshire’s mild weather. Today, Velfrey’s award-winning still and sparkling wines are served by top local restaurants. Enjoy year-round tastings and 90-minute tours (Easter-October), with optional grazing boards. velfreyvineyard.com Bluestone Brewing Company, Newport – for Welsh brewery tours Housed in a 300-year-old dairy built from Preseli bluestone, Bluestone Brewing Company crafts beer using pure spring water from its own well. From April, the taproom opens four days a week, buzzing with locals quaffing pints of hazy pale ale Al Fresco and sampling beer flights. In summer, live music and comedy nights draw lively crowds. Book a brewery tour or grab a courtyard bench for front row seats to the brewing process. Continue your beer trail at Gwaun Valley Brewery, then visit The Dyffryn Arms (known affectionately as Bessie’s) for a pint of Bass served through a hatch. bluestonebrewing.co.uk Coastal foraging with Craig Evans – foraging along with coastline A lifelong forager, Craig Evans leads edible treasure hunts along 150 miles of south-west Wales coastline with his loyal golden retriever, Llew. Scour the shore for greens, shellfish and crustaceans, before gathering around a campfire to savour your haul. Choose from two courses: the Classic, a six-hour introduction to the intertidal zone, or the Extreme Low Tide, a seven-hour expedition in search of deep water delicacies. coastalforaging.co.uk More UK restaurant guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Manchester Best restaurants in the Lake District
Read our review of this peaceful glamping site in rural Wales which has fire-pits and rowing lakes
What is One Cat Farm’s USP? Weave your way down winding Welsh lanes, through the stunning Brecon Beacons National Park (in springtime past fields of lambs and forests of bluebells) and you’ll end up in a small valley four miles south of the harbour town of Aberaeron. Tucked away down quiet tracks woven among rolling fields is One Cat Farm. It was was set up by Jessie Roberts-Duffey and Lyndon Duffey, who returned to Wales with their young family in 2015 to build a small, unique glampsite (there are no tents here but four cosy cabins, designed and built by Lyndon). And the general vibe? Wheelbarrows are parked outside The Pig Shed (a communal kitchen and lounge area) so guests can leave their cars behind and cart their luggage down the narrow stone path that leads to the cabins (here known, playfully, as dens). Baskets of freshly cut logs are waiting for you to start your first campfire and a pared-back but homely communal kitchen is kitted out with a fridge, hobs, a toaster and kettles (and shelves filled with jars of popping corn, bottles of balsamic vinegar and fresh eggs). On one wall, a mini honesty shop (you put your money in a tin can) offers glamping luxuries including packets of marshmallows, bottles of Fentimans ginger beer and bars of NOM NOM peanut butter chocolate (made in Llanboidy, an hour down the road). A blackboard hangs on another wall listing all the best things to do in the area during your visit, from where to see dolphins to which fish and chip shops are the best. Down at your cabin, loaves of freshly baked bread and jars of flowers are waiting inside on arrival. Rays of sunlight streaming through the windows and moos from cows in the neighbouring fields act as nature’s wake-up call in the morning, while evenings are spent huddled around your personal fire-pit before the sea mist drifts over, engulfing each den in a mystical haze. Which cabin should I book at One Cat Farm? The four heated, grass-roofed wooden cabins (each one is named after a type of tree that grows on site) blend seamlessly into the buttercup-filled field that they’re dotted around. Each one has a simple stripped-back Scandinavian feel to it – comfy double beds (with both a firm and a soft pillow) are laid with crisp cotton covers and topped with plaid wool blankets while striped rugs cover the floors. A bookshelf is stocked with well-thumbed literature ready to delve into, or relax on your hammock outside in the sun-dappled shade. Our cabin, Derwen, was at the bottom of the site, sheltered in a corner beside tranquil natural ponds. Bathroom facilities (two showers and two toilets) sit at the top of the hill next to the kitchen area, and each is supplied with eco-friendly toiletries and hand towels. And to eat? Stop at Watson and Pratt farm shop in Lampeter on your way to One Cat Farm to stock up on bundles of Wye Valley asparagus, vines of sweet Isle of Wight tomatoes, tubs of creamy Neil’s Yard Dairy yogurt and freshly baked country loaves and croissants from Lampeter Bakehouse (handily just next door). A well-stocked counter filled with local cheeses is hard to resist, as are the boxes of Booja-Booja truffles next to the tills. Cook your haul over your cabin’s BBQ that evening before toasting marshmallows for dessert. In the summer months, be sure to ask Jessie for salad leaves as they have plenty growing in their garden and are happy to give them to guests. Is One Cat Farm family-friendly? Absolutely. Along with the double bed, each den comes with a single bed plus an extra pull-out one, too. There’s a rowing boat to take around the ponds as well as fishing nets if you want to take a closer look at the water’s wildlife. The hills are perfect for strolling around, or bring your bikes and cycle along the paths until you reach the coast. What can I do while I’m there? Wander four miles through muddy fields and up zigzagging footpaths until you reach Aberaeron. Head to the harbour and pay a visit to Hive for cones of ice cream to enjoy on the seafront. Each of the flavours is made with honey, so either keep it classic with vanilla (which has strong, sweet, floral notes) or order a scoop of creamy hazelnut if you like something a little richer. Hop in the car and head 40 minutes along the coast to Cardigan to visit Bara Menyn bakery for freshly baked cakes and loaves of sourdough, and, in the summer months, stop for lunch at Pizza Tipi, a pop-up pizza restaurant on the banks of the Teifi. Grab a table next to river for stunning views, cosy up under the tipi next to roaring fires or perch on one of the stools in the bar. Simple pizzas on thin, crisp bases leave room for a side of crunchy focaccia drizzled in oil and covered generously with garlic. The owner says… Book in advance to reserve one of the outdoor wood-fired baths, designed and built by Lyndon. Overlooking the fields and farms, the site’s two cast-iron tubs are the ideal place to soak for a few hours with a mug of hot chocolate or a glass of wine. Keep them going by throwing logs on the burners and they’ll stay warm for over three hours – perfect for watching the sunset from. olive says… Wrap yourself in one of the fleece blankets provided and huddle around the fire at night with mugs of mint tea. Listen to the crackle of firewood and the gentle hum of crickets while losing track of time gazing up at the star-filled sky. There’s no sense of urgency at One Cat Farm (and no phone signal either) so switch off and relax. Cabins sleeping up to four people at One Cat Farm start from £160 for two nights, onecatfarm.com Words by Ellie Edwards Photos by Jessie Roberts-Duffey and Ellie Edwards
olive pitstop: foodie guide to Pembrokeshire
From artisan cheeses to bug burgers to independent hotels, discover our pick of the 10 best places to eat and drink in and around Pembrokeshire, southwest Wales
CWTCH, St Davids If the name wasn’t enough to remind you you’re in Wales (it means ‘cuddle’ in Welsh), the extensive list of local suppliers on Jackie and John Hatton-Bell’s menu is another giveaway. This welcoming 50-seat restaurant offers seasonal dishes that shine a light on the county’s top producers, without a hint of pretentiousness. Head chef Darren Thomas’ Sunday lunch offering is hard to beat; think rosemary and garlic-studded shoulder of lamb, roast Welsh sirloin of beef or thyme and lemon organic Pembrokeshire poussin with all the trimmings. Book a table (essential), settle down for the afternoon with friends and work your way through the carefully chosen wine menu. cwtchrestaurant.co.uk THE BRASSERIE, Wolfscastle One of two dining options in the recently renovated Wolfscastle Country Hotel, the 2-AA rosette Brasserie may be the more informal of the two but its menu – a tome of Pembrokeshire bounty – fends off any doubt about chef Ian Wilson’s passion for updating the classics. A modern and bright space, with attentive staff on hand, highlights here include starters of seared scallops, black pudding croquette, confit belly pork and compressed watermelon, and a Burford hen’s egg atop a perfectly cooked foraged wild mushroom risotto with Parmesan tuille and fried kale. wolfscastle.com VIC NORTH, Newport Vic North is the latest addition to the culinary collective on Newport’s Market Street with her gorgeous deli-cum-café-cum-cookery school. Find a corner table and watch locals and tourists come and go for great coffee, homemade cakes and a succinct but imaginative menu (Vic pimps up avo on toast with homemade harissa pesto and fresh lebneh – game changer!). The shelves are lined with gourmet continental and local produce to take home and there’s a thriving diary of workshops and supper clubs – can we move in? vicnorth.co.uk GRUB KITCHEN, St Davids Set in a renovated, 18th-century calf shed, this restaurant is based around the beliefs of head chef Andy Holcroft and his partner, entomologist Dr Sarah Beynon, that the Western world could do with a little education on the nutritious and sustainable virtues of entomophagy (that’ll be eating insects). Dishes change frequently depending on season and supply (Sarah’s family farms much of the meat in neighbouring fields) but look out for toasted cumin mealworm hummus, black ant crusted goat’s cheese, cricket flour crepes and Andy’s signature bug burgers. Set on their farm, the restaurant is only one part of the couple’s award-winning tourist attraction; The Bug Farm also plays host to an invertebrate zoo, gallery, academic research centre and guided bug safaris. grubkitchen.co.uk ULTRACOMIDA, Narberth With another branch in Abersytwyth and an outlet in Cardiff opening later this month, Ultracomida has proven its recipe as half deli/half restaurant really works. The company is known for its commitment to sourcing fine Spanish produce, and for its well-executed tapas. Don’t leave this, the original outlet, without ordering the silky morcilla (black pudding), a plato mixto (cheese and cured meats with torta romero, fig and almond wheel) and a serving of authentic patatas bravas. Can’t stop to eat? Fill a hamper with fresh bread, olives and a selection of artisan cheeses large enough to rival the likes of that in Harrods’ food hall. ultracomida.co.uk THE BOAT HOUSE, Saundersfoot Unveiled to the public in July, this is the latest restaurant from husband-and-wife-duo Gemma and Lee Evans (who already own The Harbourmaster in Milford Haven’s Nelson Quay). This one is in a prized spot, in the popular coastal town of Saundersfoot, within Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, and the seaside-y décor suits the location. The cooking is homely with ingredients carefully sourced; look to the specials for the freshest catch of the day. theboathousesaundersfoot.co.uk THE GROVE, Narberth For what is arguably the finest food (and comfiest beds) this side of the Severn Bridge, this small, independently owned hotel (sister to Coast in Saundersfoot and Beach House Oxwich) is the ultimate treat for discerning diners. Executive Chef Allister Barsby, who joined in 2016 having previously worked under Michael Caines at Gidleigh Park, is spoilt with his pick of the property’s landscaped kitchen gardens and the region’s best suppliers. It’s the attention to detail and delicate finesse of pairing flavours that makes Allister’s dishes so memorable; a sirloin of Welsh beef, plaice with wild mushrooms and a pistachio souffle with bitter chocolate proved particular highlights. thegrove-narberth.co.uk WDIG COTTAGE, Whitesands Staying for a while? Set up home in Wdig Cottage on St David’s Peninsula (sleeps 5). This beautifully restored, Grade II-listed Georgian farmhouse (think simple whitewashed walls, original inglenook fireplace, exposed oak timbers and prettily painted stairs) wows with panoramic views of the Preseli Hills. Work up an appetite with a stroll along the sands (it is only a 10-minute walk from the wide stretch of beach at Whitesands Bay). Then retreat to its spacious kitchen/diner (with striking red Aga) to whip up a locally-sourced feast; fill up the larder at nearby deli St David’s Food and Wine and at the county’s thriving farmer’s markets (see below). qualitycottages.co.uk FARMERS’ MARKETS, across Pembrokeshire Whether you’re in Newport (Monday), St Dogmael’s (Tuesday), Haverfordwest (Friday) or Fishguard (Saturday), Pembrokeshire’s farmers’ markets are a thing to behold. Pick up longhorn beef from Carn Edward in the Gwaun Valley, Cothi Valley eggs, Caws Cennarth and Pant Mawr cheeses and organic veggies from Troed Y Rhiw Farm. Look for Pembrokeshire Sea Salt, Shirgar butter, Coedcanlas preserves and honey and craft beer from Bluestone Brewery Co in Cilgwyn. visitpembrokeshire.com THE STACKPOLE INN, Stackpole Few pubs can draw in passersby as swiftly as The Stackpole Inn with its postcard-perfect exterior. Thankfully the charm isn’t just skin-deep, as owners Gary and Becky Evans have crafted a kitchen and bedrooms that match first impressions. This is everything a gastropub should be: homely and familiar with unbelievably good grub. The nearby Pembrokeshire Coast Path brings ramblers in their droves for boards of farm ham, cheese (Caerfai cheddar, Boksburg Blue, Caws Cenarth and Heb Enw), pickles, apple, salad, chutney and home baked bread, while an aged rib of local beef is fit for a sharing with chunky chips, rarebit topped mushrooms and beer-battered onion rings. stackpoleinn.co.uk More information: visitpembrokeshire.com Written by Sophie Rae, November 2016
Dolaucothi Arms, Carmarthenshire, Wales: pub and hotel review
Read our review of The Dolaucothi Arms, a Welsh gem in the beautiful Cothi Valley. Homely cooking, charming rooms, considerate owners and a commitment to local produce makes it an olive favourite
Remote it may be, but a weekend break at The Dolaucothi Arms is certainly worth the journey. Set in the tiny village of Pumsaint, and part of the National Trust’s Dolaucothi Estate, it’s a 16th Century coaching inn that overlooks two rivers, Cothi and Twrch, both of which the pub has fishing rights to. A red-and-white Georgian exterior and beautiful gardens – including manicured lawn, bee hives and wild flower meadow, a pet project of co-owner David Joy – makes for a welcoming approach from the road to Lampeter. Inside, the bar area stays true to its cosy, traditional roots – Chesterfield sofas, log burners, piles of worn books, polished quarry floor tiles and original sash windows are the highlights. But little touches, like meticulously arranged antique beer bottles on the shelves and modern two-tone walls, make it feel fresh and cared for. David runs the bar and chooses his drinks carefully, sourcing real ale and cider from Welsh breweries including Evan Evans and Wye Valley. Even the apple juice is Welsh – try a bottle of Dr Grandad’s, made with teeth-tingling sweet Lord Derby apples. A separate dining room follows the same subtly updated theme. Chairs may be dark wood antiques, but co-owner Esther Hubert has reupholstered them with mix-and-match fabrics to bring colour into the room. Artwork hangs neatly from picture rails and is set against a terracotta-coloured wall, and a large window gives pretty views of the garden and ‘welcome arch’ outside. Food is renowned, to the point where we shortlisted their chicken, leek, bacon and cider pie in our 2014 ‘Britain’s best pub pie’ competition. It’s still excellent, with clean, precise flavours and impressive depth (David attributes that to both Esther’s cooking and the quality of the cider she uses). There are two menus, bar and seasonal, with the latter being a touch fancier. Try heirloom tomato and sourdough salad, a colourful, juicy plate reminiscent of panzanella, with Welsh goat’s cheese as creamy as burrata. A red pepper and lentil soup was made punchy with plenty of cumin, and pearly white hake for main was strikingly contrasted against a vibrant roast tomato sauce and charred spring onions. Look out for globe artichokes and rhubarb on the menu, too – David grows both in giant tractor tyres at the back of the inn. Pick the cheese board for dessert, with Carmarthenshire Mouldy Mabel blue cheese (smooth and pungent) and homemade damson butter. If you’re driving to The Dolaucothi Arms, do as we did and book a room (arrive by bike and you’ll get 10% off for being an eco-friendly customer). There are three to choose from, all no more than £80 a night and all made charming with thoughtful adornments that match the building’s age. We loved the little dressing table, snug window seat, chunky stone walls and silver hospitality tray (complete with china teapot and sugar bowl), and found the absence of a television refreshing – there is a radio, after all. Breakfast is taken downstairs in the dining room and includes organic fruit, homemade jams and muesli. For something hot, try creamy scrambled eggs, laid by hens in the garden coop, with ribbons of soft, rich smoked salmon from Severn & Wye smokery. Milk and butter come from cows grazing five minutes down the road, and all the bread is organic and homemade. Another example of the kind of considerate, personal owners Esther and David are. Don’t leave without a browse of the little tuck shop near the bar, stacked with Welsh produce including David’s homemade piccalilli, cold-pressed rapeseed oil and coffee. Our favourite was the NomNom Venezuelan chocolate, made with chunky Welsh peanut butter and shards of Anglesey sea salt – creamy, so salty and a delicious end to a Welsh mini break. Reviewed by Charlotte Morgan, August 2016 All images (bar that of the hake) courtesy of Ruth Joy Photography The Dolaucothi Arms Pumsaint Carmarthenshire SA19 8UW You might also like Llangoed Hall, Brecon, Wales: restaurant and hotel review Anglesey, Wales: where to eat & drink, 2016
Menai Bridge, Anglesey, Wales: where to eat and drink
Where to eat, drink and stay in Anglesey, Wales in 2016. Find out where to feast on fresh-from-the-creel seafood, Welsh whisky ice cream and deconstructed bara brith
Looking for the best restaurants in Anglesey? Here are the best places to eat and drink on the Welsh island, including Menai Bridge... This pretty, pastel-painted village, linked to the mainland by Thomas Telford’s suspension bridge and the sturdy Britannia Bridge, was for years bypassed by holidaymakers heading for the pier at Beaumaris or the Irish ferries at Holyhead. Today, Beaumaris, a sailing haunt, has a faded elegance, but the high street in Menai Bridge bustles with independent retailers including high-class chocolatier and patissier Benjamin Lee. Dylan's, Menai Bridge This contemporary restaurant down on the waterfront dishes up local seafood straight from the creel beside floor length picture windows onto the strait. Seafood starters include salt and vinegar whitebait, crispy sea bass tacos and homemade crab cakes. Show-stopping fish mains range from roasted local lobster with garlic butter and skinny fries to hearty seafood chowder with Menai mussels. There are plenty of pizzas, too, topped with local ingredients such as Dolmeinir Farm lamb. dylansrestaurant.co.uk Sosban & the Old Butcher's, Menai Bridge An exciting addition to Menai Bridge is Stephen and Bethan Stevans’ rustic restaurant Sosban & the Old Butcher’s, the original slate from the butcher’s shop still cladding one wall. Stephen worked for Marcus Wareing in London before heading back to his native Anglesey. Open from Wednesday to Saturday evenings, this is touted as a dining experience rather than as a traditional restaurant. There’s no menu – the eight to 12 courses are a ‘grouping of ingredients’ – and while dishes sound simple, the result is pure theatre: ‘celeriac, coffee, apple’ is a sort-of risotto, the chopped celeriac resembling rice, served under a cloche filled with smoke. ‘Bitter chocolate, passion fruit, olive oil, peanut’ is a chocolate sphere of passion fruit and peanut dissolved at the table by liquid caramel. sosbanandtheoldbutchers.com Halen Môn Saltcote and Visitor Centre, Menai Strait Granted PDO (protected designation of origin) status, putting it in the same league as champagne and parma ham, Halen Môn is intensely salty. A smooth, long-lasting salty. Try it as part of a guided tour and tasting at the new Saltcote and Visitor Centre (halenmon.com), a £1.25m stunner of a building on the banks of the Menai Strait, Anglesey. Alison and her husband David started a business growing oysters and mussels on Anglesey and then opened a sea zoo before turning their attention to salt. It was the zoo’s fussy seahorses happily breeding in these waters that made them realize how pure the seawater was. They’ve now gone full circle and have started farming mussels once more, on the shore. But it’s salt that has put them, and Anglesey, on the culinary map. Alongside products like smoked water (famously used by Heston Blumenthal and good in a risotto, apparently), Halen Môn salt is now exported to 22 countries and sold by Waitrose, M&S and Harvey Nichols among other stockists, including sixth-generation butcher John Swain-Williams in Menai Bridge. Take part in a salt tasting, ranging from basic table salt to rock salt, European sea salt and then, sparkling like freshly fallen snow in the sun, the brilliant white crystals of Halen Môn, or Anglesey sea salt. Halenmon.com Red Boat Gelato, Beaumaris This ice-cream parlour boasts over 200 flavours (Penderyn whisky knocks spots off rum and raisin). redboatgelato.com Where to stay in Anglesey The Outbuildings, Llangaffo Stay in this restaurant with rooms, in Anglesey’s southwest corner. The four bedrooms and one very pink shepherd’s hut at The Outbuildings are surrounded by farmland. Anglesey was once dubbed the breadbasket of Wales, so fertile was this 276 square-mile island – there are views across to Snowdonia’s mountains and a five-mile beach at Llanddwyn is only minutes away, too. Tucking into scallops seared in Penderyn whisky with owner ‘Bun’ (Judith) Matthews, she told us about her recently-launched gourmet supper hampers (crab lasagna, chicken and lobster pie) and plans to open a crab shack this summer in an old barn in rural Rhoscolyn on the west coast. The aim is to keep it perfectly simple: lobster pots, candlelight, fresh Anglesey crab and sundowners with a sea view. Double rooms at The Outbuildings cost from £75, B&B, with dinner an extra £30-35pp (theoutbuildings.co.uk). For more info on Anglesey, see visitanglesey.co.uk. Menai Seafood Festival Visit in August to tie in with the Menai Seafood Festival. Words Lucy Gillmore Photographs Alamy, Getty, Kieran Ridley
Best gastro pubs with rooms: The Hardwick, Abergavenny
Locally-sourced food and smart but cosy rooms make The Hardwick in Abergavenny a must-visit.
Stephen Terry, owner and chef of Abergavenny’s The Hardwick, and proud adopted Welshman, has worked with the greats – including Michel Roux Jr, Alain Passard and a young Marco Pierre White – and pocketed Michelin stars, but there’s not a shred of show-off in him or his cooking. He and his brigade work with outstanding produce from Wales and the Marches, and turn out highly elevated pub food that never feels pretentious. The food and drink As well as hearty platefuls like Middle White pork belly and black pudding with capers, apple and mustard sauce, or ribeye steak with wild garlic, portobello rarebit and chips, there are vegetable-loving dishes, such as salt-roast beetroot with goat’s curd, cauliflower soup with Welsh cheddar, and seasonal treats of asparagus or puntarelle. Star suppliers Smoked salmon is from Severn & Wye Smokery, and the beef is from TV legend Johnny Morris’s farm, aka HJ Edwards, near Hay-on-Wye. Look out for Welsh charcuterie from Trealy Farm, and lean, organic Black Welsh Mountain lamb raised near Abergavenny. The Greek-style yogurt at brekky is from Neal’s Yard creamery in Dorstone and the sourdough from Hay baker Alex Gooch. The booze It’s got to be a pint of Ty Gwyn cider, Butty Bach or Hereford Pale Ale. What are the rooms like? Stephen and his wife Joanna converted The Hardwick from an old boozer into a smart but cosy place to eat and stay. The eight rooms look neat and modern, with walk-in showers and tables commissioned from a local joinery, and warm touches such as Melin Tregwynt textiles, and furniture and art from the Terrys’ own home. Breakfast The strapping cooked breakfast features smoked bacon, black pudding and bread fried in Middle White pork fat. Alternatives include fried eggy bread, bacon and maple syrup, sausage sandwich, and eggs benedict or royale. thehardwick.co.uk Written October 2015