Best restaurants in St Albans: where to eat and drink
The best food spots to try in St Albans, including the city’s most popular pizzeria, sharing tacos and our favourite farm shop cafés, restaurants and bakeries
Looking for restaurants in St Albans? Want to know where to eat in the cathedral city? Locals Cassie Best and Charlotte Morgan share their insider tips for the best places to eat in St Albans, including where to find the best cocktails, cinnamon buns and tacos. For more travel guides, check out our best foodie day trips from London by train and small towns across the UK that every foodie should visit. Also discover our pick of the best restaurants in Winchester, best restaurants in Oxford and best restaurants in Cambridge. Best places to eat and drink in St Albans Vesper – best for late-night small plates and martinis Vesper is a restaurant within a restaurant, tucked into an intimate corner of The Hub on Verulam Road. You might already know this space for its sun-trap terrace, hidden cinema room, summer BBQs, excellent roasts or as a great place to work from during the day. Its latest incarnation, however, has really put it on the food map. Open in the evenings only, Vesper feels like a distinct destination in its own right. I visited on a Friday night and immediately loved the glamorous feel: low lighting, deep, rich décor and a buzzy yet cool atmosphere. The menu focuses on modern European small plates from chefs Drew Knight (also behind Hazels) and Myles Fensom, designed for sharing but each generous enough to enjoy solo. We started with wedges of smoky grilled focaccia and aïoli to whet the appetite alongside an apéritif. Martinis are a big part of the experience here and the tableside trolley is a lovely touch. I went for the seasonal spiced pear martini which I enjoyed immensely. The BBQ XL prawns with garlic butter and green chilli aïoli were a standout – plate-sized and not to be missed. The barbecued whole Cornish seabass with XO sauce and burnt lemon was beautifully cooked, tender and juicy, while the Basque-style slow-cooked pork belly with romesco and crisp crackling was exceptional. Sides deserve a special mention, too, particularly the patatas bravas and creamed spinach with nutmeg. Koffmann fries were also everywhere you looked resulting in some serious chip envy. The dessert menu leans heavily towards after-dinner cocktails and dessert wines, so if you’re after pudding you may feel slightly short-changed. vesperstalbans.com Iberos – best for small plates This new counter-style restaurant is inspired by the tabernas of Spain and Portugal, and it’s quickly become one of my favourite recent openings in St Albans. I’ve visited twice since it opened in November, drawn back by its buzzy atmosphere and sleek, modern décor. It feels like exactly what the city has been missing, bringing to mind stylish London spots such as Oma or Bocca di Lupo – somewhere to meet friends for a glass of wine and a few plates, without committing to a long, formal meal. I kicked things off with an Agua de Verano cocktail, a refreshing mixture of cava, gin, orange blossom and orange bitters, though I was also tempted by the spiced winter sangria. The wine list focuses exclusively on Spain and Portugal, and there are thoughtful non-alcoholic options too: the olive lemonade is excellent (also great over dry sherry and ice). Food-wise, start at the bar with buttery jamón ibérico cebo de campo, carved in front of you, alongside salt cod fritters with aïoli, and creamy Olavidia goat’s cheese drizzled with honey. A small selection of larger plates changes seasonally. On my last visit, highlights included fried ceps with an oozy egg yolk and a gloriously fatty (in the best way) ibérico pork chop with artichoke hearts. I’m told the skate wing is not to be missed, so that’s next on my list. Desserts are intentionally limited: almond torte, wine-poached pear and what’s fast becoming a signature: panna cotta with olive oil and sea salt. I went for the latter and can confidently call it my favourite dessert of the year, best enjoyed with a glass of oloroso. Iberos is walk-in only, so get there early if you want one of the few tables at the back. iberos.co.uk Dylans at The Kings Arms – best for cosy, seasonal gastropub dining Wander down the cobblestoned George Street in St Albans’ Cathedral Quarter (flat shoes recommended) and you’ll find Dylans at The Kings Arms, one of the city’s oldest and cosiest pubs, set inside a beautiful 15th-century Tudor building. It’s my go-to local for an after-work drink, mainly because of its fantastic bar snacks – don’t miss the smoked duck scotch egg with Guinness brown sauce. This is a proper neighbourhood gem, loved by locals for its warm, unfussy hospitality, an impressive line-up of craft beers, specialist wines and spirits, and a comforting but elevated British dining menu. The food is all about simplicity and quality, with menus that change seasonally and make the most of excellent produce from small local suppliers. Highlights for me include beautifully cooked Cornish fish, rich txuleta dairy cow rib and elevated pub classics done with real care and confidence. The sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream is hard to resist. The pub itself is compact and full of character. The front bar is often buzzing at weekends, while the restaurant at the back seats around 50 and feels cosy and intimate, making it a great choice for a special dinner. Expect rustic décor, candles, floral touches and plenty of twinkly lights. There’s a bar menu for casual visits, a more formal à la carte offering and a great-value set lunch (£25 for two courses, £29 for three), which is one of the best in town. dylanskingsarms.com Gracey’s Pizza – best for pizza Who would have thought that Chiswell Green, a quiet conurbation halfway between St Albans city centre and the M25, would be home to 2024’s most talked-about St Albans eatery? Gracey’s Pizza, next to the village store, is so popular that townsfolk like me have been waking up early to guarantee a slot on its online click-and-collect system. It's a tiny joint, with one or two tables inside, a few places to perch outside and an open kitchen where the family-run team transform smooth balls of 36-hour fermented dough into American-style pizzas with crunchy crusts, charred air bubbles and a San Marzano tomato sauce. It's a sauce so flavoursome and fresh that one pizza, the marinara, doesn’t even need cheese on top to be a success – just a few shavings of sweet garlic and fresh oregano (no dried herbs here). Whether it’s the pizza sauce, hand-cut slices of spicy Calabrian salami, 36-month aged parmesan, or dough made from flour milled at nearby Redbournbury Mill (a beautiful working mill – visit for bags of flour and fat eccles cakes), it’s the quality of ingredients that really makes these pizzas shine. If you can only choose one, get The New Haven – baked extra-long for optimal charring, with a base thick with sauce, two types of mozzarella, Pecorino Romano and garlic. graceyspizza.com Hazéls – best for a special occasion Hazéls, a pocket-sized, candle-lit restaurant with linen café curtains and warm, wooden interiors, only opened in July 2024 and is already the most fashionable place to eat in St Albans. It’s the passion project of chef (and St Albans local) Drew Knight, whose love for ‘jazz kissa’ (niche Japanese jazz cafés with high-end audio systems) inspired the venture. A custom-built oak bar at the back showcases Drew’s vinyl jazz collection, which is played throughout the evening by guest DJs on twin vintage turntables. The sound system is on its own circuit to avoid interference, and even audio ingénues will notice how crisp the acoustics are. It’s more than just background music – but still unobtrusive, and not loud enough to drown conversation out. You’re welcome at Hazéls for just a glass of wine, craft local beer or short cocktail (we liked the rhubarb negroni for its aroma and rhubarb-infused vermouth), but Drew’s French-style menu shouldn’t be missed. We loved the panisse, a trio of cylindrical cheesy chickpea chips with the lightness of a gougère and a velvety comté middle. Also from the small plate menu is the juiciest fillet of flaky Cornish mackerel, balanced on top of pommes Anna and finished with sauce vierge and tiny basil leaves; and a towering wedge of airy focaccia sprinkled with sea salt chunks and spread with whipped cultured butter. Larger plates (double in price and size) might include grilled onglet steak with courgette two ways (buttery chunks and mouth-puckering pickles); and Cornish sole on the bone, the star of which was the accompanying flavour-packed moules marinière. It’s worth noting that Hazéls is probably best enjoyed by omnivores – and adults, for that matter (over 12s only). Finish with lemon tart for dessert, with its crème brûlée-style topping and wobbly, lemon curd filling, or a signature Snickers old fashioned (peanut butter, cacao nib, salted chocolate and bourbon). hazels-stalbans.co.uk Per Tutti – best for Italian “For everyone” indeed, family-run Per Tutti manages to keep us all happy: bustling groups of friends, young families hoping for a kids’ menu (two courses and a drink for under £8), and quiet couples in search of romance will all find sanctuary here. From the outside, with its pretty red bricks and curved bay window, Per Tutti looks like a tiny trattoria, but it’s a rabbit warren inside, with tables tucked into all sorts of corners and an expansive dining room upstairs (the place to be for big groups). Our preference is the cosy, softly lit space on the ground floor, where olive-green panelled walls and low-hanging pendant lights set the scene for intimacy. Risotto gamberetti, with its fat prawns and flecks of chilli, is excellent, but we suggest picking from the pasta menu: homemade, paper-thin ravioli stuffed with velvety butternut squash, or long strips of fettuccine in a rich Italian sausage, red wine and rosemary sauce are our current favourites. pertutti.co.uk Boot Cantina at The Boot – best for sharing plates Built in 1420 right next to the city’s Clock Tower (the pub walls would have witnessed the very first Wars of the Roses battle), The Boot and its gnarled wooden beams has always been worth visiting. But, now that Boot Cantina is here, it’s an absolute must. The team launched its sharing fusion menu in 2021. Hand-sized tacos are piled high with vibrant and eclectic toppings, including rich confit duck leg with oi muchim (a kind of spicy cucumber salad), gochujang mayo and chipotle black cherry jam; and slow-cooked pork with jalapeño coleslaw, chipotle barbecue sauce and pickled pink onions. It's all very relaxed – go with your pals and order as many different taco types as you can (but leave room for the chocolate-stuffed churros). Want to keep the party going? Head to The Boot’s sophisticated sister pub, Dylans at The Kings Arms on George Street (a 45-second walk away), for craft beer and specialist cocktails in a 15th-century tudor building. It serves an excellent espresso martini made with 58 and Co British vodka, Mr Black Coffee Liqueur and The Gentlemen Barsita’s espresso. @bootcantina No Nuisance – best for cocktails Also on George Street (probably the prettiest shopping street in the city) is No Nuisance, a new cocktail bar from mixologist maestro Alastair Burgess, owner of the London speakeasy bar Happiness Forgets. Head here to sip exceptional cocktails in a trendy, low-lit, moody bar decorated with splashes of crimson and mustard-yellow bar stools. There are at least 10 cocktails to choose from, including classics (we love the spicy margs for their chilli oil kick) and innovative concoctions. Brighter Later is an irresistible, fragrant blend of mezcal, umeshu Japanese liqueur, amontillado sherry and genmaicha tea – sweet and slightly sour, with a buttery, toasty aroma. @nonuisancebar Sopwell House – best for afternoon tea Sopwell House Hotel is a grand affair, with more than 100 rooms, two restaurants, a spa and 12 acres of grounds to its name. Among all of that, the best place to relax is in the cocktail lounge, where afternoon tea is served. It’s a long, breezy room that starts at a marble-topped bar and stretches all the way to a library, with little alcoves and giant sash windows along the way. Waiters make the rounds with silver trays of sandwich refills, and scones are well-risen and shiny on top, with fluffy interiors and a good bite. But, by far the best tier of Sopwell House’s afternoon tea stand is the homemade cake selection. Bright-yellow lemon macarons burst with zest, their shiny shells sandwiched together with a thin layer of sharp raspberry jam. Little pastry cases come filled with soft crème patisserie and topped with blackberries, and deliciously moist squares of carrot cake are decorated with chocolate feathers. sopwellhouse.co.uk For more, check out the best afternoon teas in London. Darlish – best for ice cream Darlish, the Persian ice cream specialists, set up shop here in spring 2018, bursting onto the scene with a clever seasonal special – hot cross bun ice cream sandwiches. All the ice cream is made by hand in St Albans, and it sits in creamy mounds under silver domes on the countertop. Blackboards spell out the day’s flavours: floral orange blossom studded with pistachios and apricot, aromatic coconut and cardamom, or sweet cream and sour cherry. There are sorbets, too (vegan coconut and raspberry rhubarb, with an intensely sweet and sharp berry flavour, is our favourite) and you can garnish your chosen flavour with a sprinkle of homemade halva or sesame brittle. Turkish coffee, deep-red Persian tea and mini cones for children are also available. A couple of tables line the walls, but you’re best off moseying around the weekend market (which dates back to the ninth century) or nearby St Albans cathedral while you lick – this is a very pretty part of town. darlish.com Lussmanns – best for a sustainable dinner Lussmanns is the kind of neighbourhood restaurant that you can always rely on. The bright, modern space is a reflection of what to expect from the menu: clean, colourful plates of food, smartly presented without pretension. Menu highlights include a pretty tangle of seasonal salad leaves, lovage pesto, roast beetroot and local Wobbly Bottom goat’s cheese to start, and plaice with North Sea brown shrimps and a coin of melting paprika butter for main. Ninety five per cent of the ingredients used at Lussmanns are grown or produced in the UK, all the fish is Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) approved, the beef and mutton is organic (try the latter in an aromatic kofta with a brioche bun and cucumber mint raita), and the British Saddleback pork is woodland-reared. Order a pint of Farrs Brew bitter, Mad Squirrel pilsner, Zealous pilsner or Three Brewers classic English ale with your dinner – all of them are brewed in Hertfordshire. lussmanns.com The Waffle House – best for waffles Opposite a quaint ford and over the brow of an 18th-century brick bridge, The Waffle House is well worth the 10-minute walk from St Albans city centre. It sits in the middle of St Michael’s village (a winding road lined with red-brick cottages and ancient pubs) and is housed in a 16th-century watermill. Choose from a menu devoted to Belgian waffles made from organic flour milled just three miles away, including a breakfast special of smoked back bacon, fried banana and grilled vine tomatoes. Make a feast of it by ordering a savoury waffle to start (topping highlights include slow-cooked barbecue pulled pork with homemade slaw) and a sweet waffle to finish. The latter are piled high with everything from banana and crumbled flapjack, to pecans and butterscotch sauce – there’s always a seasonal special, too, such as blueberry-studded waffles with wild blueberry sauce. Help yourself to as much maple syrup as you like, and don’t forget to marvel at the original water wheel and millstones before you leave. Once only a breakfast and lunchtime spot, The Waffle House is now open for dinner, too. wafflehouse.co.uk The Potting Shed – best for lunch Carpenters Nursery, with its position just off the main road to Sandridge village, is easy to miss. But, locals know better than to pass by this treasure-trove of home-grown produce. It’s been both a garden centre and farm shop since 1923, selling vegetables grown in the fields right next to the building. A tiny team of three plant seeds in early spring, eventually filling the farm shop with everything from chard and marrows, to red lettuce, beetroot and Brussels sprout tops. Optimal freshness is the aim: carrots pulled and bunched in the morning are on the shop shelves an hour later. You can also pick up cereals, soaps, beers, chocolate, eggs, oil, honey and even vodka, all from Hertfordshire producers, and there’s always a hefty selection of organic breads made by Redbournbury Mill (the same folk who mill flour for The Waffle House). Even better, a barn at the back of the farm shop has been converted into a sleek café, which transforms all that home-grown produce into breakfast, brunch and lunch. The Potting Shed is a modern, L-shaped space flanked by bifold doors that beautifully frame a rockery with open fields beyond. It’s a bucolic view, given how close you are to St Albans city centre. Mushrooms on toast for brunch may sound modest, but you’ll be served a powerful plate of punchy pickled mushrooms on sourdough with a poached egg, truffle oil and a little puff of superbly rich goat’s cheese mousse. For something bigger, try harissa-roasted sweet potato with hummus, chill and garlic kale, fried capers and tahini yogurt. There’s a separate kids' menu and an afternoon tea option with homemade scones and local jam. pottingshedcafe.com, carpentersnursery.co.uk/farm-shop The Prae Wood Arms – best for a country pub Once a standard carvery joint, this “little cottage” (as described by its original owner, Lady Frances Cooke Grimston, in 1838) has been transformed by Brunning & Price into The Prae Wood Arms, a destination pub and restaurant. You can walk to it via The Gorhambury Estate, which encompasses a roman theatre, the 16th-century ruins of a house built by Sir Nicholas Bacon, a neo-palladian mansion, babbling River Ver brooks, and dense woodland that's home to everything from muntjacs to woodruff (a sweet-fragranced plant with tiny white flowers that taste like vanilla). Downstairs is a warren of dining rooms, each with its own ambience from family-friendly to romantic, and most tables have views of the pub’s expansive lawn and the Gorhambury Estate beyond. There’s even a rickety wooden gate that leads from The Prae to the banks of the River Ver, which shines with wild trout. A rusty old tractor, piles of gnarled tree trunks and a gentle hill to roll down keeps kids entertained for hours, while parents watch from a terrace sheltered by an elegant iron awning. It’s posh pub grub to eat, including braised shoulder of lamb with dauphinoise and rosemary gravy, baked whole plaice with butter sauce and, for dessert, a teeth-tingling sticky toffee pudding with matching sauce. To drink, order from a mighty gin menu, which is split into flavour profiles (there are 23 options in “smooth and fruity” alone), or go for a pint of Side Pocket for a Toad, a citrussy, floral golden ale that’s brewed in nearby Tring. brunningandprice.co.uk/praewoodarms Bishop’s Cave – best for cheese Holywell Hill, said to be the site where Saint Alban was executed (his head apparently rolled all the way to the bottom), never used to be fashionable, but over the past decade several independent restaurants – including the aforementioned Per Tutti – have chosen it as their home. Bishop’s Cave, sister to the original Cave in Bishop’s Stortford, is the city’s first cheese, wine and craft beer emporium, and it’s housed in one of the Hill’s most historic spaces. Sloping beamed roofs, geometric tiled floors and crumbly red-brick walls ooze history, while a St Albans coat of arms, soft lighting and vintage wine crates add to the atmosphere. Create your own cheeseboard from a fridge crammed with around 45 options (try Baron Bigod, Britain’s first unpasteurised brie; gruyère-style Red Wine Farmer, which is washed in Swiss red wine; or Darling Blue for its mellow butteriness) and eat it alongside a glass of Tuffon Hall English pinot noir. There are also more than 100 modern and craft beers to sip, including Millionaire – a decadent salted caramel milk stout made by Wild Beer. Prefer spirits? The team behind Bishop’s Cave has recently opened The Gin Cave in the shop next door, where you can pick from a menu of more than 70 small-batch gins – try a spicy, citrus-tinged Silverback Old Tom gin with lemongrass tonic. thebishopscavestalbans.co.uk, thegincave.co.uk More UK restaurant guides Best restaurants in Penzance Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Manchester Best restaurants in the Lake District
25 small towns across the UK that every foodie should visit
From Welsh market towns with creative culinary gatherings to Yorkshire boroughs that are home to artisan roasters and gin distilleries, these are 10 of the best foodie towns across the UK for a staycation
Looking for UK staycations? Want to know the best towns for foodies? Check out our guide for the must-visit UK towns that every foodie should visit. Filled with must-try restaurants, bakeries and bars, there is something for everyone in 0ur gourmet picks – from an island getaway in Jersey to picturesque Bruton in Somerset's green rolling hills. For more travel inspiration, find out the best unique UK holiday cottages for foodies and check out our best gastropubs with rooms. Feeling active? See our picks of 10 unique walking holidays for foodies. If you're planning a summer holiday, check out our UK summer travel ideas. Totnes, Devon The market town of Totnes in Devon has some of the most progressive organic restaurants in the country. The Bull Inn is driving the charge with its ecological and social impact pledges, including commitments to “field grown, not flown”, mindful meat, seasonality and supplier-led organic food. Its inventive menu includes such dishes as roasted courgettes, whipped tahini, preserved lemon, pumpkin seed picada and basque cheesecake with plums. Eversfield organic farm shop & café has a menu of all-day brunch classics such as toasted banana bread with seasonal compote and Turkish eggs with warm chilli butter. The Totnes Sunday food market is the biggest in Devon offering up fine produce from local producers. For a taste of fine-dining, head to Gather which showcases locally sourced and wild foraged ingredients from Devon’s fields, shoreline, rivers and hedgerows. Where to stay: not just a restaurant, you can also stay at The Bull Inn. There are nine chic, minimally-designed rooms to choose from plus a four-bed self catering apartment (with it's own private terrace) that is ideal for larger groups. Doubles from £165, check availability at booking.com Alnwick, Northumberland The market town of Alnwick, famous for its historic castle, is quietly becoming something of a culinary hotspot. New fine-dining restaurant Sonnet serves up a tasting menu inspired by ingredients from small local farmers, producers of rare-breed meats and British fine food makers. Alnwick Brewery Co & Taproom has been producing traditional brown ales and IPAs since the 1860s, and is a lively hangout that regularly hosts food trucks from local establishments like Caribbean Ren’s Kitchen. The Bistro at The Cookie Jar is a relaxing restaurant serving up local produce in dishes such as tempura cod cheeks with spicy pea purée and chorizo crisps, and homemade ice creams and sorbets. And Jasper’s Bistro, in nearby Amble, is an intimate seafood restaurant with just six tables, specialising in locally landed lobster, crab and langoustines, with an excellent wine list. Check out our full guide to the best restaurants in Northumberland for more. Falmouth, Cornwall Falmouth in Cornwall is famous for its scenic natural harbour and stunning views, and is now also something of a culinary hotspot. Perched on the rocks overlooking Swanpool beach is new seafood restaurant Beach House Falmouth, which is centred around a menu of fresh, local and sustainably sourced seafood. It serves delicious dishes like whole grilled Falmouth Bay crab with garlic butter, shell-on wild prawns with ’nduja, and fried oysters with aïoli. Harbour House, just over the bay in Flushing, is a waterside pub with a focus on seasonal dishes and local drinks. Its menu includes Fowey scallops from the grill, beef short rib cottage pie, and kedgeree scotch eggs with curry mayonnaise. Located between Mylor and Flushing, Food Barn is a weekly market with more than 20 stalls that champion local, sustainable food from traders like Allet Dairy, Penny’s Pies, Loveday distillery and Ruby June’s Indian Kitchen. Sabzi’s Deli serves up Cornish and British produce cooked into Middle Eastern-inspired dishes, like local roasted Savoys with sumac, butter beans and fresh herb chutney, and spiced roasted carrots with whipped tahini. Settle, Yorkshire Dales This historic market town and the villages of surrounding Ribblesdale and Malhamdale are cultivating quite the food scene. In Settle, foodies are buzzing about the hip, crisply executed small plates at chef Iain Graham’s The Nettle restaurant. Elsewhere, refresh at High Street Coffee, micropub Millers @ Bar 13 or the Talbot Arms freehouse. For food shopping visit butcher and expert pie maker, Drake & Macefield, homewares store (and cute café) Car and Kitchen, Tuesday’s town market and Settle Artisan Market (second Sunday, monthly). Heading into the surrounding countryside, Lay of the Land is a small garden centre whose café, led by chef Jimmie Lay, is much-loved by discerning locals. As is Town End Farm Shop, a crucial outlet for regional artisan foods, including owner Chris Wildman’s charcuterie. Just a few miles from Settle, Austwick is home to the well-regarded hotel restaurant The Traddock and nationally significant food hub The Courtyard Dairy. The dairy retails up to 50 carefully matured cheeses from small farmhouse producers, houses a cheese museum and hosts events and cheese-making courses. It also shares its Crows Nest Barn location with pizzeria Rind, natural wine shop Buon Vino and artisan bakery Ambry. Folkestone, Kent The coastal town of Folkestone in Kent offers a unique blend of creativity, seaside charm, and hidden foodie hotspots which are lesser known than some of its trendy seaside neighbours such as Margate and Rye. The Folkestone Harbour Arm is home to an outdoor array of shipping containers which have been converted into independent food businesses, offering everything from fresh oysters and champagne to global street food, all set against the backdrop of stunning sea views. Highlights include poffertjes (mini Dutch pancakes), and inventive cocktails. For a relaxed family meal, head to Rocksalt, where local produce takes centre stage in dishes like Romney Marsh lamb and Folkestone-caught mackerel. Folkestone's Creative Quarter, brims with live music, tapas, cafés and Kentish beers and wine. In the evening, discover strong and perfectly-formed cocktails at The Potting Shed which will transfer you back-in-time to the vibrant 1920s. Where to stay: Shoreline Holiday rentals are the ideal base for exploring Folkestone. Each property is thoughtfully styled, offering luxurious yet cozy interiors, well-equipped kitchens, and private balconies with sweeping views of the English Channel. Perfect for families and couples alike, there’s two and four-bedroom beach houses on offer, all within walking distance of beaches, galleries, and restaurants. Jersey, Channel Islands A short hop from the UK (or France), Jersey, famous for its prized potatoes, oysters and rich custard-yellow cream – is having a gourmet revival. Restaurant pêtchi, from island-raised chef and Great British Menu finalist Joe Baker, is leading the charge. Its menu celebrates the abundance of the island’s local seafood with dishes such as Chancre crab and seaweed tarts, and a signature wood-roasted lobster rice. JEJE, housed in St Helier’s historic fish market, specialises in fresh sushi and Korean-inspired dishes made using the daily catch. Over on St Ouen’s Bay is SANDS, whose menu is inspired by Australasian and Californian coastal cuisine, with homemade tacos and sodas like its apricot/cardamom and lychee/vetiver. And for a nightcap head to The Porter’s Store, a stylish speakeasy with live music and cocktail masterclasses on offer. Reigate, Surrey Reigate has had an influx of foodie establishments in recent years, making it well worth a visit. Lebnani – from chef Jad Youssef – is leading the charge. Its menu is inspired by the food of Beirut with traditional meze and charcoal grills designed for sharing, using the finest spices, herbs and grains from Lebanon, combined with local ingredients. Chalk Hills Bakery makes artisan breads that use traditional long-fermenting methods, each kneaded by hand, including sourdough with potato, rosemary and nigella seeds. The Chapel is an independent café specialising in perfectly brewed coffee, open sandwiches and sausage brioche rolls using meat from local family butcher Robert & Edwards. And New Gurkha Kitchen serves up authentic Nepalese cuisine, like Gurkha aloo (potatoes with turmeric and cumin), Kathmandu chicken and Nepalese-style chow – stir-fried noodles with spices. Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire Famous for its spirited community ethos which has attracted writers and artists for decades, Hebden Bridge in West Yorkshire is now a hotbed for culinary creatives. At its heart is Kitchen 91, a micro-bakery and dining room in a converted weaver’s warehouse specialising in Italian cuisine with sustainability at its core. Independent cooperative Valley Organics sells ethically sourced ingredients from local producers, and Goo Cheese has a range of more than 100 British and continental cheeses with an emphasis on lesser known cheesemakers. Stylish contemporary restaurant Coin is the best spot for dinner, serving small plates such as Crown Prince squash, rocket, Loch Arthur yogurt and smoked almonds alongside an extensive list of natural wines. For a night cap, lively bottle shop Drink (open until 10pm) has a range of regional craft ales, fruit sours and cloudy gose beers from across the county. Bruton, Somerset Picturesque Bruton is nestled among Somerset's green rolling hills and has become a something of magnet for unconventional chefs and arty culinary creatives in recent years, turning the once quiet market town into a foodie hot spot. At the Chapel – a Grade II listed restaurant-gallery-hotel hybrid – takes pride of place in the centre of Bruton high street, serving a Mediterranean menu that heroes West Country produce and a wine store filled with organic, biodynamic vintages. Durslade Farm Shop showcases artisan makers and growers of Somerset in the chic Hauser & Wirth Gallery. The Newt country estate hosts seasonal gastronomic events such as foraging masterclasses and artisan cyder tasting in its orchard. And Michelin-starred restaurant Osip, fronted by chef Merlin Labron-Johnson, has removed all menus entirely – asking diners to put their faith in the hands of its masterful chefs. Where to stay: Number One Bruton is a revamped Georgian townhouse that offers 12 bedrooms and a sense of playfulness behind the polish. In the Georgian townhouse itself, designers Frank & Faber have decorated the bedrooms with a tasteful riot of pattern on pattern, plus period fireplaces and gilt mirrors. For a more modern feel, a trio of cottages behind the main house (overlooking the courtyard garden) have simple white bathrooms, quarry-tiled floors and neutral colour schemes, reflecting their former status as workshops. Breakfast, taken in Osip (see above), is totally unique in terms of its offerings. Try vanilla-spiked rice pudding topped with homemade granola and a spoonful of toffee-ish milk jam; still-warm boiled egg cradled in a little nest of hay; pheasant terrine and chutney on freshly baked sourdough; or a sliver of jammy pear and quince tart. Check rates and availability at numberonebruton.com Lyme Regis, Dorset Affectionately known as the pearl of Dorset, thanks to its beautiful bay, the areas surrounding Lyme Regis are also rich in culinary delights. The Seaside Boarding House, overlooking Lyme Bay, champions local Dorset produce and has a guest series with a host of exciting chefs including Jeremy Lee, Rick Toogood and Abby Lee. The Parlour at Bredy Farm offers Italian small plates like Tuscan fish stew with Dorset clams and courgettes alla poverella. And Rachels in West Bay is a beach side hut with fresh local seafood platters, moules and chowder, plus it gets our vote for the best fish and chips in the area. Stockbridge, Scotland Perched on the Water of Leith river and blessed with eye-catching architecture, this hip, upmarket inner suburb is a very pleasant 25-minute walk from central Edinburgh. Beyond its period charms (check cobbled Insta fave, Circus Lane), it is also a tasty place to eat. Acclaimed fine dining restaurants eòrna and Avery, which previously operated in San Francisco, rub shoulders with ambitious gastropub, the Scran & Scallie, cool basement small plates joint, Skua, and the Last Word Saloon, sister bar to legendary cocktail spot, Bramble. Wine geeks will love pace-setting wine bar, Smith & Gertrude (do not miss its grilled Montgomery cheddar sandwich) and the shopping opportunities at treasure trove, Raeburn Fine Wines, Vino and newcomer, Communique Wines. To accompany those wines, food shop at Stockbridge Market (Sundays) or cheesemongers IJ Mellis or George Mewes. Before the steep climb back into Edinburgh, refuel on next-level croissants at revered bakery, Lannan, or take a moment in craft beer haven, Stockbridge Tap, or Edinburgh Cider Co’s The Cider House. Aldeburgh, Suffolk Aldeburgh, a small seaside town in Suffolk, is famous for its annual food and drink festival, and something of a hot gastronomic ticket. The Lighthouse serves simple home-cooked fare with a neighbourhood vibe – including its very own Lighthouse 77 gin, which includes botanicals such as heather and liquorice. Sea Spice is a beautiful restaurant that combines local Suffolk produce with flavourful Indian cooking. The beach is lined with shacks selling boxes of prawns and smoked fish from local artisans including Butley Oysterage. And, like all great coastal towns, there’s the iconic Aldeburgh Fish & Chips made the traditional Suffolk way – fried in beef dripping! Be it colour palettes and decorative touches inspired by the Suffolk countryside or a guest pantry where you can pour yourself a complimentary cocktail, every detail of six-bedroom The Suffolk has been carefully considered. Enjoy the rooftop sea-view terrace, then head down to the restaurant, where chef Tom Payne makes impressive use of Suffolk produce, such as Gressingham duck or Dingley Dell pork. From Butley Creek oysters to lemon sole in Pernod garlic butter, seafood is prominent. Check rates and availability at the-suffolk.co.uk Malton, Yorkshire There’s so much going on in Yorkshire’s food capital of Malton right now. Those serious about their food won’t be disappointed. Over a four year period, 26 food and drink businesses have set up shop here. Many cluster around Talbot Yard – a former stables – which now houses an artisan roaster, Roost, the Bluebird Bakery, the Groovy Moo gelateria, macaron-maker Florian Poirot, the Rare Bird Gin Distillery and a butcher, Food 2 Remember. Other dates for the diary include the Malton Harvest Food Festival in October, and the monthly food markets. These events bring together the wider area’s exceptional producers’ including Malton Cider, cheese from Botton Creamery, chutneys from Sloemotion and lots more. Where to stay: Talbot Inn (owned – like much of Malton – by aristocrat Tom Naylor-Leyland and his glamorous wife and Vogue-contributor Alice) has relaxed décor, in a glamorous, playful sort of way. Ex-Lucky Onion stalwarts, Georgie and Sam Pearman, spruced up the 26-bedroomed Talbot, bringing a modern style to the imposing 17th-century coaching inn, resulting in oak-floored rooms where modern art and antique finds rub alongside ancestral portraits. Eating is when and where you want. Already savoured the views of the watermeadows from the plant-draped Garden Room? Curl up by the log fires in the Snug, or slouch into a leather armchair beneath the wall-mounted wild boar in the navy-walled Upper Bar. Wherever you sit, jeaned and Converse-sneakered waiting staff miraculously appear. Doubles at Talbot Inn from £96 per night, check availability at booking.com Studland, Dorset The village of Studland, on the Isle of Purbeck in Dorset, is gathering a reputation as a beach destination with discerning culinary clout. Shell Bay Restaurant & Bistro – on the tip of the Jurassic Coast – is a scenic sunset-watching spot that specialises in open-fire cooking. Its exciting menu champions local lobster, bass and Poole Bay oysters, with dishes including fire-roasted miso and yuzu cod and pepper soft-shell crab with smoked pineapple chilli sauce. The Pig on the Beach has a walled kitchen garden and is committed to home-grown produce with its 25-mile menu, serving veg picked that morning and transformed into dishes such as marinated beetroot with spiced hazelnut crumb and blood orange. Across the water from Studland in Poole is Thirteen from head chef Alex Naik, whose tasting menus combine locally sourced and foraged ingredients – courses might include the likes of mushroom tom kha soup with seaweed noodles, velvet shank and oysters, and thyme panna cotta with orange jelly, ginger gel and clementine powder. And Bankes Arms is a pub by the sea that’s also home to the award-winning Isle of Purbeck Brewery – serving up the likes of Studland Bay Wrecked, Solar Power, Fossil Fuel and Purbeck IPA. Moreton-in-Marsh, Cotswolds In the Evenlode Valley, within the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the market town of Moreton-in-Marsh makes an ideal base for a ‘foodie’ trip. A short hop from popular villages and towns such as Daylesford (famous for its organic farm, shop and restaurant), Chipping Norton and Stow-on-the-Wold, it benefits from good public transport links including direct trains to London. The main street is lined with handsome stone buildings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, many of them shops, tea rooms, pubs and places to eat. There are plenty of places to stay the night, including the White Hart Royal, a former manor house where King Charles I took refuge during the Civil War. The main public building is the Redesdale Hall which holds antiques and craft fairs, and there’s a weekly Tuesday street market. When it comes to eating out, Henne is highly regarded by the locals with its inventive and sustainably driven menu using hyper-local produce. If it’s artisan bread and patisserie you’re after, Otis & Belle bakery is exceptional and The Cotswold Cheese Company sells countless local cheeses. A short drive out of town is the Michelin-starred Royal Oak at Whatcote. Tisbury, Wiltshire In Wiltshire’s pretty Nadder Valley, Tisbury is more village than town yet still packs a punch when it comes to eating and drinking. On its edge the Grade I thatched Tithe Barn has been converted into Messum’s, a contemporary art gallery where the Mess Restaurant offers much more sophisticated fare than your standard museum café. In the morning Genius Coffea, on the High Street, is the first port of call. For sustenance to go with it, continue on to Tisbury Deli where the shelves prop up goodies from croissants to pork pies. Pick up a bottle to go with your supplies from <The Beckford Bottle Shop, where you can try-before-you-buy and get expert advice from staff. Pythouse Kitchen Garden should be on everyone’s radar too; not only for the first-rate restaurant but because the company’s glamping village, tucked away in the orchard, is the perfect place to stay. Where to stay: Pubs in the area are plentiful but few focus on food; the exception is The Beckford Arms where you’ll need to book to get ahead of the locals who come for a Beckford Bloody Mary and stay on for Sunday lunch. Doubles from £91 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com North Berwick, Scotland There’s a food revolution underway in the seaside town of North Berwick, just half an hour from Edinburgh by train along the East Lothian coast. Millennials priced out of the city have de-camped to the coast bringing with them a demand for flat whites and sourdough – which they get at Steampunk Coffee Roasters and the <Bostock Bakery. The croissants at the latter are so good that NOMA’s René Redzepi sent his pastry chef from Copenhagen to learn from Bostock’s Ross Baxter. For seafood, try Lobster Shack – a seasonal operation on the harbour that cooks its catch from the neighbouring Firth of Forth Lobster Hatchery between Easter and October; the lobster and crab bisque is exceptional and the Shack is licensed so you can order a glass of crisp white to go with it. A blustery and beautiful walk out of town brings you to shipping container turned coffee shop DRIFT, perched on an outcrop above Canty Bay; sit in and order the bacon and egg sandwich with herby aioli. Where to stay: Stay just out of town, in Gullane, at The Bonnie Badger, Tom and Michaela Kitchin’s restaurant with rooms. Doubles from £236 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Deal, Kent Kent’s coastal towns are smartening up, luring in a hip London crowd who steer south on fast trains. Whilst foodies still love Whitstable, Deal is the buzzy new kid on the block. Find everything from Kent’s favourite chippie, Middle Street Fish Bar to date-night-dining at Victuals & Co. where the Raid the Larder menu on Sunday evenings is particularly good value. The Deal Dining Club is an institution and its Friday and Saturday night set-menu feasts always sell out; typical events include a Taste of Kent, with a menu boasting Canterbury cheese puffs, Kentish brown shrimp, local pigeon, home-smoked haddock and rhubarb crème brulee. It’s BYOB so pick up a bottle beforehand at Le Pinardier, a French wine bar and shop with an array of predominantly natural wines. Where to stay: Cross the road to The Rose where the seasonal cocktails are invented by local forager and chef, Lucia Stuart, who also runs excursions such as a Berry Bonanza Wilderness Picnic via The Wild Kitchen. As well as a bar, restaurant and pretty courtyard garden, The Rose has eight artfully-designed bedrooms. It’s worth staying for breakfast – the sourdough toast with pear and ginger jam is scrumptious. Doubles from £167 per night, check availability at booking.com Orford, Suffolk The Suffolk town of Orford may have kick-started its foodie reputation with the opening of the renowned Pump Street Bakery (a visit to its Suffolk-pink premises for breakfast pastries is a must) but the business has done a pivot into artisan chocolate-making so save space to try one of their artisan bars too. Proximity to the shingly coastline means the town is also home to two excellent seafood spots, fixtures since the 1950s – Butley Oysterage, a smart restaurant serving up plump oysters and griddled prawns dripping in garlic butter, and the sister shop, Pinney’s, where you can buy smoked fish, potted crab and angels on horseback to take away. If you’re visiting in September, Orford also makes a great base for exploring Aldeburgh Food Festival – confusingly not in Aldeburgh town but, rather, at nearby Snape Maltings, the Victorian red-brick malt kilns turned world-famous concert halls that sit amongst the reedbeds on Suffolk’s river Alde. It’s a great setting to learn, among other things, how to make bread courtesy of Marriage’s Bakery Room. Where to stay: Orford’s pub, the The Crown and Castle, promises smart bedrooms overlooking Orford’s 12th century castle, or there’s the Wash House Studio B&B – stay in a sweet shepherd’s hut or the converted wash house next to the coastguards cottages and wake up to find a breakfast hamper covered with a gingham cloth on your doorstep in the morning. Doubles at The Crown and Castle from £122, check availability at booking.com Abergavenny, Wales Abergavenny Food Festival takes place each September and is one of the most creative and dynamic culinary gatherings in the UK, also one of the longest running. Regulars come for talks by Diana Henry and Bee Wilson, Dinner Party masterclasses with Rosie Birkett and Elly Pear, vegan BBQing tips from Matt Pritchard, debates on sustainable farming, a children’s cookery school and outdoor feasts based around wild cooking. Beyond the festival, you’ll find a quiet market town packed with independent shops like The Angel Bakery, which serves seasonal fruit pastries and perfect artisanal baguettes. Pair one of the latter with a ploughman’s hamper from The Marches Deli (it includes three Welsh cheeses, local chutney, Cradocs crackers and Welsh ale). The top table in town for breakfast and lunch is at The Kitchen at The Chapel where soda bread is baked each morning and might be served with pumpkin, butter bean and olive oil soup and a local craft cider, while the Michelin-starred Walnut Tree Inn is just outside town. Where to stay: Stay at Old Lands in one of three pretty holiday cottages set within converted stables and barns on an old family estate. There’s a walled garden and an on-site micro farm shop and guests can book children into Forest School, go on a nature walk or take a rowing boat out to an island on the estate’s lake. Check rates and availability at old-lands.co.uk Clitheroe, Lancashire The Lancashire market town of Clitheroe, in the Forest of Bowland, is the hub of Lancashire’s Ribble Valley. You’ll find a heaving cheese counter at Holmes Mill, Clitheroe’s monumental new food hall, and regional produce galore at Booths. Dip into independent food shops, such as Cowman’s Famous Sausage Shop, which sells over 70 varieties. Then go for a walk on Pendle Hill, followed by lunch at the Assheton Arms in Downham. Where to stay: Stay over at Freemasons At Wiswell, just south of town. As well as a chef’s table experience the dining pub has added bedrooms; enjoy Herdwick lamb with aubergine and miso purée, and a superlative vanilla slice, then stumble into bed. Or head half an hour out of town to remote Dale House, a 400-year-old farm. One of its owners used to work as a chef for the Roux brothers so expect standout breakfasts and sumptuous (zero-mile) dinners, such as venison haunch steak with blackberries followed by homemade eccles cakes. Doubles from £160 per night, check availability at freemasonsatwiswell.com Porthleven, Cornwall Almost as far southwest as you can get in England, Porthleven is a pretty Cornish port that greets you with waving sailing flags and colourful buoys bobbing in the water (and a medley of carefully curated food stalls if you time a trip to tie in with the annual Porthleven Food Festival each spring). It may be a tiny town, but the food scene is growing at pace here – think Padstow thirty years ago. Current highlights include Origin, a coffee roasters that started here but now has shops in Shoreditch, Edinburgh, the British Library and Southwark too. Next door is Kota Kai which serves Thai tapas and forms a more relaxed little sister to Kota restaurant, up the road. Run by half-Maori, half Chinese Malay chef, Jude Kereama, Kota (meaning ‘shellfish’ in Maori) serves Cornish seafood with Asian and Kiwi influences; think pan-fried hake, crab ravioli, Cornish mussels and tiger prawns in a vegetable dashi broth or Porthilly oyster tempura with wasabi tartare. Try the tasting menu and then stumble upstairs to bed. Where to stay: Kota has two bedrooms above it so you don’t need to leave town. Alternatively rent a picture-perfect thatched cottage on the nearby Trelowarren Estate, also home to the excellent New Yard restaurant. Bridport, Dorset It’s over fifteen years since Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall turned the spotlight on field-to-fork dining in Dorset, with the River Cottage, and West Dorset is now a firmly foodie pocket of the UK. Exciting things are happening in the market town of Bridport. A vibey Asian street food joint might be the last thing you’d expect to stumble on up a small-town alley, but Dorshi is exactly that. The name (“Dorset-sushi”) stems from the founders’ days spent doing a roaring trade out of a food truck. Now in a bricks-and-mortar restaurant the menu is all about dumplings, buns, zingy salads and noodle bowls. Likewise the Soulshine Café is on-the-button with superfood spirulina smoothies, oat milk lattes and a vegan full English on the menu – meat-eaters needn’t worry you’ll find sausage sarnies here too. For a sweet treat visit Baboo Gelato where the ice cream is award-winning – try the plum sorbet. Just outside the town visit Washingpool Farm, home to one of the region’s best farm shops (it stocks its own veggies as well as other local produce, like North Perrott apple juice and Dorset Cereals. Where to stay: Stay further up the sands at the Seaside Boarding House, a hip hotel with unrivalled views over Lyme Bay, elegant modern cooking and a grown-up line in cocktails. Ashburton, Devon Dartmouth and Salcome might get all the attention in Devon’s southernly corner, but look inland for fewer crowds and great food spots. Ashburton, on the edge of Dartmoor, is home to the famed Ashburton Cookery School where over 40 classes are offered from a five-day patisserie week to a three-hour Indian cook-to-go and a recently introduced range of Christmas classes, from festive breadmaking to party canapés and chocolate advent calendar workshops. If you’d rather leave the hard work to the experts, the award-winning Ashburton Deli is the place to go, stocked with the best produce from across the West. Ten minutes’ out of town, meanwhile, brings you to Riverford, the organic farming champions – visit their home turf for lunch or supper at The Riverford Field Kitchen where the set veggie menu is about as close to farm-to-fork as can be. Where to stay: Stay at the Live and Let Live pub where there’s excellent provenance-orientated food and three bright and airy bedrooms. Kendal, Lake District But for its eponymous mint cake, Kendal is not known for its food. It is overlooked entirely by many visitors who, alighting at Oxenholme station or racing past from the M6, head straight for the Lakes’ better-known hot spots. This is a mistake. The food and drink scene in this handsome market town is on a flavour-packed roll at casual dining spots such as Comida, Marra 46, Pappy’s Texas BBQ, Baba Ganoush and exciting small plates restaurant, Ramble, run by wine-maker, Northern Wine. It is home to two mega breweries, Lakes Brew Co, which hosts street food traders at its monthly brew-tap, and Fell (check its bar and new arts venue, Glisky). Kendal also boasts award-winning butcher, Roast Mutton, a carefully curated, twice-monthly farmers’ and artisan-makers’ market (second/last Fridays), and, just outside town, one of Britain’s best bakeries, Lovingly Artisan – a neighbour to, among other food businesses, Plumgarths farm shop. Is Kendal Cumbria’s tastiest town? Quite possibly. Where to stay: 20-minutes drive from Kendal, Gilpin Hotel & Country House in Windermere offres luxurious bedrooms with lakeside views, and an on-site Michelin-starred restaurant that puts an Asian twist on Cumbrian dining. Doubles from £335 per night, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Words by Daisy Allsup Photographs by Clare Hargreaves, Weekend Journals, Rhiannon Batten, Helen Cathcart, Keiko Oikawa More travel guides Best country house hotels in the UK Best health and wellness retreats Best hotels in London Best UK boutique hotels Best hotels in the Cotswolds Best Cornwall hotels Best hotels in the Lake District Best London hotel bars to visit Best romantic hotels in the UK European hidden gems: hotels off the beaten track Best Paris hotels Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best restaurants with rooms in the UK Best Amsterdam hotels
Best restaurants in Oxford: where to eat, drink and stay
Explore Oxford's French wine bars, cheese shops and cafés hidden down passages between ancient university college buildings
Looking for Oxford restaurants to try? Check out our ideas for eating and drinking in the university city, from Jericho to Summertown and beyond… For more exciting restaurants and weekend ideas for food lovers, check out our best UK city breaks and foodie day trips from London by train. For more city guides, discover the best restaurants in Bristol, best restaurants in Cambridge and best restaurants in Cheltenham. Jump to: The best places to eat and drink in Oxford Where to stay in Oxford Best places to eat and drink in Oxford Pompette – for French fare and wine Pompette, meaning tipsy in French, is run by husband-and-wife duo Laura and Pascal Wiedemann. The focus is on French classics with European influences, from the food to the design: start with warm bread (all of which comes from local French bakery Gatineau), slathered with butter and sprinkled with sea salt from dinky pots on the table. Order the piping hot croquettes to share, oozing with a gently spiced roux sauce and nuggets of ham. Desserts are not to be missed, from hearty choux buns laced with boozy cherries and a glossy chocolate sauce to crisp meringues loaded with lightly-whipped vanilla cream, chunks of juicy rhubarb and pistachios. Wine is the focus when it comes to drinks, from natural and low-intervention to sweet orange options from Georgia but it’s the French wines that really shine. pompetterestaurant.co.uk Permit Room – for Indian sharing plates The sister restaurant to Dishoom, Permit Room now has three locations, with a fourth opening in May 2025, that all embrace the now familiar Irani café vibe of the popular restaurant. Tucked down one of Oxford’s oldest city streets, Permit Room serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner with menus that feature all the Dishoom favourites, refreshing cocktails and its famous house chai. As expected, this place is all about sharing, no matter your party size, so make sure you pick something from each section of the menu. We’d say four to five plates for a table of two. The crispy spinach chaat is a light and surprisingly moreish way to start your meal, and we recommend the chicken pick-me-ups for a hands-on dish. Dishoom’s signature black dhal is always a must-order, cooked for 24 hours for a rich and smoky dish, perfect with a side of hot, fresh naan or rice. The drinks menu has ample choice of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic options. Make sure to book your table ahead as this venue gets busy. permitroom.co.uk Spiced Roots – for Caribbean food Various Caribbean influences can be found on the menu at Spiced Roots in Oxford. Run by friends Jumoke Brewster and Michael Krah, dishes to look out for include include buljol (a traditional salad of salt cod, peppers, chillies and tomatoes) transformed into croquettes, mellow curry goat, and Guyanese pepperpot beef shin, while vegans will delight in jerk tempeh and stewed pigeon peas. spicedroots.com The Harcourt Arms – for Spanish-inspired bar snacks, open fires and Sunday roasts One of the latest pubs to undergo a refurb in the Oxford area is the 17th-century The Harcourt Arms. Head chef Olly Oakley (brother Will is GM) has peppered the menus with nods to Spain through bar snacks such as Friggitelli peppers, an enthusiastic use of rabbit as both chops and in rice dishes, and steaks cooked in a Josper charcoal oven. There’s a cosy and comfortable bar as well as a dining room, so you can eat as casually as you like. Local beers feature, there’s a splendid Sunday lunch which includes coal-fired carrots and, if you can’t make it home, book one of the ultra-comfy rooms upstairs. theharcourtarms.com Arbequina – for tapas Housed in a former chemist’s building (and the charming original sign still remains on the exterior) this celebrated, buzzy tapas bar is always busy with hungry, happy diners. The restaurant is simply decorated with functional furniture and a stainless steel bar for those keen to have a more interactive experience. The concise menu is approachable and authentic with a range of small plates for picking and larger dishes for sharing, and a confident wine list to accompany. Let the friendly staff guide you but don’t miss the irresistible tortilla and the Santiago tart for dessert. arbequina.co.uk Hamblin – for baked goods Hamblin is found on the outskirts of Oxford, in a flurry of popular shops and cafes. The bakery was opened in October 2018 by Hugo Thurston and Kate Hamblin, who proudly make all their bread with stone ground flour made from organic wheat and rye, all grown within fifty miles of the bakery. Out back, the bakers work hard to produce as much as they can, while the smiley staff in the shop talk customers through the tempting selection. There are sweet and savoury options to satisfy any craving; hearty sausage rolls and pizzas, addictive cinnamon buns and melt in the mouth chocolate cookies. If you are organised, you can order the day’s treats online and collect before 1pm each day, to avoid disappointment as they always sell out! hamblinbread.co.uk Missing Bean – for a gourmet coffee shop Missing Bean were, arguably the first to introduce speciality coffee to Oxford, and their cafes offer an alternative to the more traditional tearooms. The company opened their original site in central Oxford in 2009, tucked away on Turl Street. In 2014 they opened the roastery site and café in East Oxford, a larger space where you can relax with a drink and pastry (from their own bakery) while watching the beans being roasted each day. Both founders, Ori Halup and Vicky Troth, experienced the fast evolving third wave coffee scene in Australia before coming to the UK to introduce Oxford to better, sustainably sourced coffee. The diverse range of coffees, from the classic smooth blends to more quirky fruity specials have made their coffee popular both in their own cafes and across their wholesale clients. themissingbean.co.uk 2 North Parade Produce – for local produce 2 North Parade opened in September 2013, a tiny neighbourhood store run by Peter Slade and Victoria Borondo. The humble pair really know their stuff and only offer the very best produce, working closely with farmers and suppliers who focus on the quality, integrity and provenance. The shelves are heaving with abundant seasonal and rare fruit and vegetables, British farmhouse cheeses and charcuterie, homemade cakes and locally roasted coffee. If you are staying in self-catering accommodation this is the place to stock up your larder! 2northparade.com Cherwell Boathouse – for modern European For a lunch with a view book a table at Cherwell Boathouse, an Oxford institution serving a modern European menu (expect everything from Jerusulem artichoke arancini to guinea fowl with celeriac fondant). On our visit we tried crisp brown shrimp fritters with a gently spiced carrot and caraway purée and sweet onion chutney. Pink duck breast came in a rich blood orange sauce with tender kale and buttery Pommes Anna, but desserts are where it really impressed. A fudgy slice of sticky toffee pudding with a slice of caramelised banana perched on top had the right balance of sweetness, with a rich caramel sauce and quenelle of cooling milk sorbet, while biscuit nuggets added a welcome hint of salt. cherwellboathouse.co.uk Edamame – for Japanese Peter Galpin and his Japanese wife, Mieko, set up Edamame in 1998 with the intention of creating an inviting, hole-in-the-wall eatery for guests to enjoy authentic Japanese home cooking. There are no reservations and tables are shared to help keep the prices low and the seating efficient in what is a tiny restaurant. Edamame offers a lunch-only menu Wednesday to Sunday lunchtimes, a sushi-only menu on Thursday early evenings, and a dinner-only menu on Friday and Saturday early evenings. Peter says: “We are delighted that for the last three years the Japanese government has awarded us with exclusive recognition as being Oxford’s only truly authentic Japanese eatery.” edamame.co.uk The Handle Bar Café and Kitchen – for cosy breakfast or brunch Whether you need your bike fixing, or just fancy a chai masala tea, the Handle Bar Café and Kitchen can provide. Dig into hearty veggie breakfasts complete with plantain chips and smashed avocado for brunch (and order a pot of JING loose-leaf tea on the side). Or, save yourself for roast squash salads with feta and dukkah come lunchtime. If you’re after something stronger, head downstairs to Le Bar, a 1920s-style speakeasy serving tea-infused cocktails, from the Chai Chai Again (a concoction of bourbon, chai spice-infused sweet vermouth and Campari) to Chamo Sour (chamomile-infused rye whiskey, fresh lemon, sugar and egg white). handlebaroxford.co.uk Oli’s Thai – for Thai It’s not far from East Oxford’s hip, studenty Cowley Road, but hidden amid houses on an unassuming suburban street, Oli’s Thai is deliberately discreet. This bright, simple canteen has become one of Oxford’s hottest restaurant – such is the power of Ladd’s cooking. The shelves are decorated with Thai groceries but she is no slave to tradition. Instead, Ladd uses Western techniques confidently (confiting duck for her panang dish, slow-cooking pork for her green curry), to bring a new depth to dishes beyond their radiant Thai seasoning. The oven-roasted pork belly on rice in a dark soy broth – its glassy crackling swathed in a fresh chilli and lemongrass paste – is a glorious example of this East-meets-West process. olisthai.com Gee's Restaurant and Bar – for rustic, Mediterranean dining Housed in a listed Victorian conservatory, this cosy restaurant on the Banbury Road, just north of the University Parks, has been going strong since 1989. Flooded with natural light from floor-to-ceiling windows, the light and airy space has a greenhouse vibe, with its tiled floors and potted olive trees. From weekend brunches to Sunday roasts, the Mediterranean inspired menu focuses on cooking over fire. Dig into sweet potato and oregano risotto, burrata with rainbow chard and sides of wood fired courgettes with beetroot and dill. Puddings include British classics like pear and apple crumble and sticky toffee pudding, while crema catalana and chocolate nemesis take inspiration from Spain and Italy. gees-restaurant.co.uk Jericho Cheese Company – for cheese and sourdough Set up in 2016 by an ex-Neal’s Yard Dairy cheesemonger, the shop sells a variety of cheeses from across the British Isles. Ask the shop’s enthusiastic staff for a recommendation; options range from raw Isle of Mull cheddar to Suffolk’s St Jude. Other shelves are stocked with loaves of sourdough, local free-range eggs, jars of Radnor Preserves chutney and bottles of Herefordshire’s Townsend Farm apple juice, while a fridge holds Neal’s Yard yogurt and Kentish butter. If you’re visiting on a Saturday, book in for one of the shop’s monthly evening cheese and wine tastings. jerichocheese.co.uk Oxford Covered Market – for food market dishes This indoor market doesn’t just sell food but it’s worth a visit to stock up on fruit, vegetables and local beers. Wander down the aisles, stopping off at Bonners Fruit and Veg for a colourful array of seasonal produce before heading to Teadrop, a tiny micropub serving cask ales to drink in, as well as local draught and bottled beers to takeaway. If gelato is what you’re after, head to iScream for scoops of chocolate, hazelnut and stracciatella. Cream and milk comes from Guernsey cows in Wiltshire, while the production equipment comes direct from Italy. Classic Italian flavours include pistachio, coffee and hazelnut or, in the summer, keep cool with a cone of lemon sorbetto. oxford-coveredmarket.co.uk Objects of Use – for kitchen accessories Be sure to check out Objects of Use while you’re on Market Street. A kitchen shop selling only useful, albeit beautiful, objects, it acts as a treasure trove for cooks, with wooden tables laden with cast-iron baking tins, Japanese brass trivets, Korean kettles, can openers and no less than 25 different brushes, from vegetable brush no. 1 to a three-ring dusting brush. objectsofuse.com G & D's Café – for ice cream An Oxford institution, G & D's (originally George and Davis) now has three branches across the city, but the original still stands proudly in Jericho. Open from 8am until midnight every day, it’s the place to head to (or the central St Aldate's branch) for a take-away cone to lick while you sight-see. All made on site, flavours veer towards student-friendly favourites, from classic vanilla to Oxford Blue (blueberry) and Daim Bar Crunch. Don’t see anything that takes your fancy? Sign the petition book in each of the cafés, and if your flavour suggestion gets enough support, it’ll go on the menu. The cafés serve more than just cones, with ice cream sundaes, banana splits and bagels all best-sellers too. gdcafe.com New Ground Coffee – for top-notch coffee and waffles Started by Dickon and Joel (who believe in great coffee and social justice in equal measure), New Ground Coffee is an Oxford-based social enterprise that trains and employs ex-offenders. As well as selling their beans (these come in beautifully sleek white packaging, with a simple pop of colour to distinguish the different blends), they have a speciality coffee bar where you can sit in and sip. Interiors are minimalist, with white-washed walls, black stools and birch ply tables. As well as top-notch drinks, you can stock up on moreish stroopwaffles supplied by Bath-based Dutchboy Waffles. newgroundcoffee.com Society Café – for speciality coffee Society Café is a vibrant space that acts as a hub for local creatives. As fans of its sister branches in Bath and Bristol will know, this café is one for real coffee lovers. Peruse an open counter laden with squidgy almond croissants, slabs of gooey peanut butter brownies and slices of cinnamon and walnut loaf while you decide on your coffee. Classic options include flat whites, cappuccinos and espressos (helpfully labelled with tasting notes), all made with Origin beans – which you can buy in bags to take away. Various guest coffees are available too, sourced from suppliers such as Horsham Coffee Roaster and Belfast’s Bailies Coffee Roasters. If you fancy something caffeine-free, grab a bottle of Jarr kombucha, or a hot chocolate made with Willies Cocoa. society-cafe.com Where to stay in Oxford and Oxfordshire The Porterhouse Only a five-minute stroll from the station, The Porterhouse is a restaurant-with-rooms that makes the perfect base camp for a weekend in the city. Downstairs, a bar and restaurant focus solely on steaks cooked over charcoal, while seven bedrooms upstairs are simply yet stylishly furnished. Midnight-blue walls, teal velvet headboards and exposed filament lightbulbs add a sense of modern luxury, while exposed wooden floors and latch windows give it a timeless townhouse feel. A communal help-yourself fridge comes stocked with milk and bottles of water, with a bowl of fruit set above it. If steak is what you fancy, head downstairs hungry. All steaks are cooked within a bertha (a type of indoor charcoal oven) using charcoal sourced from the Oxford Charcoal Company to give them a smoky flavour. If there are two of you, opt for the juicy cote de boeuf, aged for 35 days, or, if you’re a party of four, go for the Porterhouse which comes with both sirloin and fillet. Fluffy fries and crisp walnut salads come on the side, and you can choose between a selection of sauces to drizzle on top (our money is on the punchy salsa verde). A succinct yet impressive gin menu is where it’s at in drinks terms, with eight to choose from including Toad dry gin and Twisting Spirits earl grey, both of which come from Oxford. Try them with a splash of tonic, or get them made into negronis. Doubles from £190 per night, check availability at booking.com Artist Residence In a sleepy village in rural Oxfordshire Justin and Charlie Salisbury, the duo behind quirky Artist Residence hotel group, restored a 16th century Cotswold-stone farmhouse and opened it as their fourth property, Mr Hanbury’s Masons Arms. A community-focused pub, with five perfectly put-together bedrooms upstairs, Mr Hanbury’s (the name is a fictional nod to colourful characters associated with the pub historically) is split into two areas – a cosy bar area with a classic pub menu (the heart of South Leigh village life) and a more sophisticated dining room where guests can enjoy a fine dining menu beneath up-cycled crystal decanter lamp shades. After fine-tuning his skills in professional kitchens across the UK (most notably Michelin-starred gastropub, the Pony & Trap, in Somerset), young talented chef Leon Smith has taken the reigns at Mr Hanbury’s Masons Arms. Hyper-local produce from the Oxfordshire countryside is the order of the day, whether that’s lamb from just across the road or kohlrabi from Leon’s own allotment. And everything is homemade, from elderflower-infused Aperol to brighten up punchy negronis, and wild nettle puree folded into pan-fried homemade gnocchi to toasted marshmallows served with strawberries and lime curd for pud. Doubles from £182 per night, <a href="https://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-100565798-11795693?sid=olivemagazine-85697&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fhotel%2Fgb%2Fartist-residence-oxfordshire-south-leigh1.en-gb.html%3Faid%3D318615%3Blabel%3DEnglish_United_Kingdom_EN_GB_29562089065-V39waLuA6GZJTAO%252A2fCNrAS217243460100%253Apl%253Ata%253Ap1%253Ap2%253Aac%253Aap%253Aneg%253Afi159055020334%253Atidsa-301067192779%253Alp1007149%253Ali%253Adec%253Adm%3Bsid%3Dc1571dc47fba14a01abc8f1d668ad838%3Ball_sr_blocks%3D277389702_106815746_0_0_0%3Bcheckin%3D2022-02-24%3Bcheckout%3D2022-02-25%3Bdest_id%3D-2604911%3Bdest_type%3Dcity%3Bdist%3D0%3Bgroup_adults%3D2%3Bgroup_children%3D0%3Bhapos%3D1%3Bhighlighted_blocks%3D277389702_106815746_0_0_0%3Bhpos%3D1%3Bmatching_block_id%3D277389702_106815746_0_0_0%3Bno_rooms%3D1%3Breq_adults%3D2%3Breq_children%3D0%3Broom1%3DA%252CA%3Bsb_price_type%3Dtotal%3Bsr_order%3Dpopularity%3Bsr_pri_blocks%3D277389702_106815746_0_0_0__27830%3Bsrepoch%3D1642762406%3Bsrpvid%3Da5a14c92e322062b%3Btype%3Dtotal%3Bucfs%3D1%26" target="_blank" rel="sponsored" data-id="iframe-0-anchor-38">check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Click here to read our full review of Artist Residence, Oxfordshire Mollie's Motel A stylish, American-style roadside motel and diner from the Soho House Group, Mollie's Motel livens up the A420 motorway outside Oxford. Though purposefully low-key (to keep rates affordable), this unique space is sealed with the signature Soho House Group stamp. The lobby-cum-lounge-cum-general store is a calm, contemporary hang out with squishy leather sofas, a large reclaimed oak table, self-serve tea and coffee station, and retro shelves lined wit jugs, plants and books. The 79 rooms are compact and simply furnished while maintaining a homely style – blonde wood panels adorn pale green walls, peachy velvet chairs sit in the windows, and globe wall lights cast a warming glow. There aren’t lots of extras, but luxurious touches come in the form of Egyptian cotton sheets on kingsize beds and Cowshed toiletries in epic rainforest showers. Across the car park, the motel’s main dining space, Mollie’s Diner, is full of locals venturing out for a casually glam dinner, Soho House members, and people passing through on their travels (there’s even a drive-thru option). Start with a round of cocktails (smooth espresso martinis or the refreshing Mollie’s Margarita) and some cheesy nachos before tucking into diner classics. It’s worth saving room for a slice of homemade apple pie, spooned out at the table from a huge ceramic dish. Pieces of cinnamon-laced apple are covered with crusty pastry and served with a dinky jug of cream. Breakfast is also served in Mollie’s Diner, with an all-day menu of fry-ups (try the veggie platter laden with grilled corn on the cob, avocado, Portobello mushrooms, croquette-style hash browns, eggs and toast); and Bargain Baps piled with the likes of smoked salmon and cream cheese or sausage and egg. Doubles from £72, check availability at booking.com Milly’s new book ‘Oxfordshire’ by @weekendjournals is now available to pre-order here. More UK travel guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Cambridge
Best restaurants in Margate: where locals eat and drink in the Kentish seaside town
Explore this cool coastal Kent town via elegant fish suppers, plump Whitstable rock oysters and scoops of rhubarb and custard gelato
Looking for Margate restaurants? Want to know the locals' favourite haunts in the Kentish seaside town? Check out our favourite places to eat and drink below, then peruse more seaside holidays for food lovers including the best restaurants in Deal and where to eat in Brighton, plus Rosie Birkett's favourite Kent restaurants. The best places to eat and drink in Margate Angela’s – for elegant seafood Two small dining rooms separated by a central kitchen, Angela’s is as no-frills as the menu, which prides itself on simplicity and minimal waste (even the tabletops have been fashioned out of recycled plastic bags). Plump Whitstable rock oysters, mussels with cider and garlic, whole roasted plaice and thornback ray with brown butter are just some of the reasons why Angela’s is still in rude health after more than half a century. angelasofmargate.com Forts Café – for vibey brunch This popular spot is always bustling with local creatives catching up over some of the best brunch dishes in town. The focaccia sandwiches are legendary on the Margate food scene, with fillings such as braised brisket with pickled chilli and herby aioli, jerk jackfruit with pineapple and corn slaw, and the epic bacon sarnie. Baristas work wonders with speciality coffee beans roasted by a rotation of the country’s best, from Manchester’s Ancoats to Somerset-based Round Hill Roastery. @fortscoffee Pomus – for Sunday feasting Unassumingly located in Margate’s revamped shopping precinct, Ryan Jacovides’s bistro and wine bar has all the warm, friendly feels of a neighbourhood favourite. Prime spot is perched on a mustard-hued stool at the burnt orange counter, so you can peruse the bottles on the shelves behind and watch head chef Aaron Costen and his team look after the impressive cooking. Pop in for a herbaceous rosemary-infused negroni, house-infused vermouth spritz or glass of floral Kentish sparkling wine, or bed in for the Sunday sharing feast. Things kick off with a selection of snacks such as mackerel rillettes, soy and ginger popcorn chicken with zippy mango and habanero sauce, gobstopper olives and squidgy focaccia (that just so happens to be gluten free, as is the whole menu). Next comes a huge sharing cut (on our visit Tomahawk pork in a rich, buttery beef stock sauce) accompanied by a generous spread of sides – bubbling ramekins of cheesy dauphinoise potatoes, pancetta-flecked sprouts and chilli-laced mangetout. Elegant puddings might be blackberry-topped dark chocolate ganache or tarte tatin with miso ice cream. A third of the cocktails are creative non-alcoholic options such as a refreshing coastal spritz, and there’s also an extensive list of wines chalked up on the blackboard alongside frames of quirky art to liven things up. pomus.co.uk Sargasso – for harbourside lunches The owner of east London’s neighbourhood restaurant, Brawn, also takes pride in this seaside restaurant at Margate’s iconic pier destination, Harbour Arm. Enjoy lobster spaghetti and Catalan salt cod salad with a quintessential view back over the harbour to the Old Town. Ingredients are sourced locally, many grown on musician and restaurant partner Matthew Herbert’s farm 10 miles from the town, with wines from Europe’s boutique vineyards. sargasso.bar Willy's – for cosy bistro feels Tucked away at the back of Margate House (below), restaurant Willy's oozes intimate bistro feels – wood-fringed marble tables, frilly wall lamps and velvet banquettes, all sealed with a classic jazz soundtrack. Perch at the quartz counter to watch Dublin-born chef Mark O’Brien (ex The Dairy) add his elevated stamp to comfort classics. Kick off with a trio of glistening hot honey devils on horseback before caper-dressed beef tartare topped with frilly Jerusalem artichoke crisps to scoop onto beef dripping toast. Hearty mains include Cumberland sausages with colcannon (Savoy cabbage-flecked buttery mash), red wine jus and caramelised onions, roast chicken with pan-fried hen of the woods in a rich tarragon sauce and braised beef rib topped on leek and barley risotto, with a lovage sauce to finish. Sticky toffee pudding is rich and treacly with stem ginger ice cream that melts into silky toffee sauce. Pair with a glass of port, Calvados or pear cognac as an elegant digestif. willys.co.uk Mannings Seafood – for seaside picnics This seafood shack perched on the harbour is a Margate legend. Must-trys include the simple, fresh crab sandwich, and little pots of cockles, whelks and prawns. Let owners Trev and Val make up a platter for you or take a plate of oysters and a bottle of champagne to the beach for the ultimate seaside picnic. @manningsseafoodmargate Oast – for artisan bakes Be it stone-ground heritage wheat flours from Kent’s Nonington Farms or skills honed at Scotland’s Twelve Triangles, baker Will Moss and co-founder Charlotte Keeys have drawn on the best from near and far to create their hit bakery-café. Sourdough breads are forefront but Will’s baguettes, made using a starter and fresh yeast, are prized among Margate’s French community. “Sourdough provides flavour, fresh yeast a light soft crumb,” says Will. There is a distinct Swedish influence in Oast’s knotted buns and sandwiches. The buns are often flavoured with buttery cinnamon or cardamom, then glazed with syrup and pearl sugar. But flavours can broaden to include, for example, chocolate, orange and cardamom, or seasonal fruits and custard. oastmargate.co.uk Peter's Fish Factory – for fish and chips Ask locals where you can get the best fish and chips in Margate, and they’ll point you in the direction of Peter’s Fish Factory, overlooking the seafront. There will be queues, but the salty, crisp and golden chips, waft of malt vinegar and perfectly cooked cod is more than worth the wait. Everything is served in boxes – so you won’t have to negotiate soggy, scorching chip paper on your lap, and you’ll get change from a fiver. facebook.com/petersfishfactorymargate Sète – for French wine bar feels Natalia Ribbe of Ladies of Restaurant fame has curated a cosy wine bar that offers a rare blend of fun vibes and serious wines. The eclectic, revolving wine list puts the spotlight on female winemakers, Eastern European vineyards and Kentish growers. Taking inspiration from French neighbourhood tabacs, sharing snacks include pâté en croute with pickled gherkins, potted smoked prawns and French onion tart, plus superb Oast baguette and butter. In the dining room at the back larger sharing plates such as crispy lamb with grilled radicchio, taramasalata with crushed new potatoes and elegant dover sole meunière are served from a small open kitchen, giving feels of being at a friend's for dinner. There's also a surprisingly large, sun-soaked courtyard at the back where Natalia and team host wine tastings, events and of course lunch walk-ins too. setemargate.com Bottega Caruso – for Italian classics Harry Ryder and his Italian wife Simona met when they worked in London restaurants, but it wasn’t until Harry visited Simona’s family in Campania that he realised the Italian food he had tasted in the UK wasn’t anything like the real thing. “I tried her family’s tomato sauce, the pasta, the cheeses, wines and oil – I’d never tasted anything like it. I joked that we should start bringing it back to the UK, and that’s what we’ve done with Bottega Caruso.” This small Italian kitchen and shop started out as a pop-up stall at The Goods Shed in Canterbury, selling fresh pasta and Simona’s family sauces. Popular dishes on the menu include verdura e fagioli – a slow-cooked stew of greens, organic beans and smoked chilli – and handmade cavatelli pasta with a meaty Neapolitan ragu comprising slow-cooked beef shin, top rib, pork belly, pork rump, fennel sausages, meatballs and Simona’s family tomato sauce. bottegacaruso.com Little Swift – for wines and cocktails Bottle shop, deli and wine bar, this seafront hangout has an eclectic offering. Work your way through personally recommended wines by the glass and pair with a charcuterie board livened up with cucumber pickles from Kentish forager Karly’s Kitchen. When the weather’s playing nice, take a frozen margarita or piña colada to the beach or join local pals catching up on the terrace. @littleswiftct9 The Greedy Cow – for casual lunches For a seriously good sourdough toastie make a beeline to The Greedy Cow. Available from noon onwards (only breakfasts are served in the mornings), we like the chorizo version, laced with fresh orange. Or go for a Gents Burger, made with black pudding, sausage, bacon, cheddar, chutney and beetroot and served with fennel coleslaw. Eat in the upstairs café or ask for your order to go. thegreedycow.co.uk The Two Halves – for craft beer With its prime spot on the seafront this craft beer bar is often busy and might take some time to make your way to the bar here but it’s a great place to try locals brews from breweries such as Canterbury Ales, Gadds and Shepherd Neame. @TheTwoHalvesAle The Old Kent Market – for iconic food market vibes The Old Kent Market is a newly opened food emporium just across the road from the Turner Contemporary (you can’t miss it – it’s painted bright red). Inside you're greeted by a full-size red bus that’s home to a cafe but don't jump on the first foodie offering you see. Venture further inside and you’ll find stalls selling freshly made sushi, pulled pork and takeaway pies plus local breads baked daily on site and locally grown fruit and veg. theoldkentmarket.com Local neighbourhood spotlight: Cliftonville A short walk out of the town centre, this independent, artistic area is bookmarked by Margate’s landmark lido sign and striking Botany Bay, famous for its rock pools and chalk rock formations. Join creatives for brunch at Forts, known for its focaccia bacon sarnies, or go for a proper fry up at The Dalby Café, before browsing the bars, shops and galleries along Cliff Terrace, including stylish fragrance store, Haeckels (which also sells a delicious seaweed tea made from locally foraged seaweed and sold in gorgeous glass jars). A few streets back from the seafront is Northdown Road, home to some of Margate’s friendliest independent food businesses. Mori Mori is a cosy spot for tucking into sushi boxes and ramen, The Grain Grocer has your organic groceries covered, and Oast bakes a fabulous rotation of sourdough and sweet buns. Head back to the seafront to work up an appetite by strolling along the coastal path to Botany Bay or embracing the sea water with some lengths in Walpole Tidal Pool. Back inland from Walpole Bay, you can warm up with coffee and vinyl at Cliffs or make your way through Sète’s eclectic curation of wines and cheeseboards (they also throw a casual BBQ in the garden every Sunday in August). Where to stay in Margate Margate House Step off Cliftonville's wild seafront into a Regency era townhouse and immediately relax. A thoughtful collision of restored features, contemporary art and antique pieces results in a super chic feel, from the candle-lined apothecary cabinet to dusty pink sofas positioned round the stone fireplace in the lounge, fringed with immaculate rose cornicing. Locals stop in for aperitifs at the adjoining bar, softly lit with opalescent table lamps. The pink hues of the comfiest bar stools you might ever perch on even match the signature pomegranate Margate Cosmo. There are nine rooms, all unique and varying in size (Room 6, for example, has large French windows and an exposed brick fireplace), but each in keeping with the earthy colour palette and contemporary design – think wavy velvet headboards, pop art and chocolate brown seats. A rollcall of boutique luxuries elevates from guesthouse to hotel – Roberts radios, Le Labo toiletries and a generous snack drawer. Breakfast is taken in the homely basement parlour, a pink Aga taking centre stage while guests gradually pad down to congregate round one large table. As well as a classic full English, the succinct menu breathes life into the usual contenders – avocado toast lifted with almond chilli oil, smoked salmon and horseradish cream atop Guinness soda bread, and pan con tomate for a peppy Mediterranean option. margatehouse.co.uk No 42 Guesthouse Margate’s recent reinvention has seen it become a popular destination for food lovers, with the opening of several independent restaurants such as Angela’s, Sète and Sargasso. Now this seaside hotel, part of the small Guesthouse group, also in Bath, York and Brighton, provides another reason to visit the Kent coastal resort – its Pearly Cow restaurant and rooftop terrace providing magnificent views across the channel. Pearly Cow focusses on seafood platters, fish and grills. Whitstable oysters and salt cod tacos make a good sharing starter, salt-aged steaks are prepared in the open kitchen, with whipped bone marrow butter and beef fat chips – this is the kind of easy food, prepared simply, you want to enjoy on the coast. The reasonable wine list includes a decent house cava. Breakfast is similarly classic, with local Brogdale sausages in the full English, alongside a decent eggs royale and organic porridge with honey and pistachio. Make use of the communal pantry for early morning tea, coffee and pastries, or late-night snacks – huge jars of traditional sweet shop treats like lemon sherbets and chocolate bars. Bedrooms are light and sunny, with neutral colours and fabrics, made contemporary with touches such as a record player and choice of vinyl, modern prints and beach-hut-shaped tea and coffee station. Bramley toiletries and power showers are very welcome after a day on the beach. In the lounge bar, Dreamland’s ferris wheel is referenced in its wall decorations, with raffia lightshades and touches of aqua adding beach house vibes. B&B from £170 per night. Check availability on their website. Fort Road Hotel One of Margate’s iconic seafront buildings opposite Turner Contemporary gallery has been restored to its former life as a hotel. Design is at the forefront throughout, with pieces from artists with Kentish ties and vintage Scandinavian furniture (Danish teak mirrors, beech chairs, rosewood tables) giving each room its own unique character. Bold-hued tiles adorn neat bathrooms, kitted out with seaweed-infused products from local spa Haeckels. Local connections extend to the food and drink options, served in the smart, intimate ground-floor restaurant. Choose between Kentish wines from the likes of Simpsons vineyard or a local gin (Greensand Ridge is herbaceous while Dockyard has notes of citrus and spice). Dishes include trout lifted with Hinxden Farm Dairy crème fraîche and skate wing bathing in beurre noisette and brown shrimp. Breakfast is a real treat, with bacon sarnies offering a satisfying crunch courtesy of hot baguettes from Oast Bakery down the road. Small touches take the hospitality to the next level. A brown paper bag of homemade cookies awaits in the room, best enjoyed with a a glass of rosé or sherry-laced hot chocolate on the rooftop while watching the sunset over the rugged coastline. Doubles from £140, check availability at fortroadhotel.com or booking.com The Reading Rooms One of the first boutique-style b&bs to open on the North Kent Coast, and one which has made great use of the fine Georgian buildings that dominate this area. In Hawley Square, just back from the old town but within strolling distance of all the main attractions, its three bedrooms pair ‘rough luxe’ styling (think fabulous beds and designer bathroom fittings but artfully distressed walls) with gloriously high ceilings and beautiful wooden floors. Breakfasts are equally special, ranging from a full English to ciabatta and bacon sandwiches or slices of toast spread with cream cheese, honey and cinnamon. And don’t miss the gourmet hot chocolate. Doubles from £142, check availability at thereadingroomsmargate.co.uk More UK travel guides Best restaurants in Penzance Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge
Discover the best restaurants and places to eat in Kent, from no-frills seafood to Michelin-starred fine dining, homemade pasta and unbeatable ice cream
Looking for the best restaurants in Kent and must-visit foodie spots? Here's our expert guide to the best places to eat and drink in Kent, England. From Whitstable to Margate and Broadstairs, Kent's north-east coast hosts a range of restaurants, cafés, bars and even vineyards for foodies to enjoy, celebrating local produce. From a Michelin-starred gastropub for special occasions to the freshest seafood and unmissable gelato, there is plenty to keep foodies happy. For more UK restaurant inspiration, check out our guides to the best restaurants in the Cotswolds, best restaurants in Cornwall, best restaurants in Nottingham or the best restaurants in the Lake District and the best restaurants in York. Best restaurants in Kent Angela’s, Margate – for seafood Two small dining rooms separated by a central kitchen, Angela’s is as no-frills as the menu, which prides itself on simplicity and minimal waste (even the tabletops have been fashioned out of recycled plastic bags). Plump Whitstable rock oysters, mussels with cider and garlic, whole roasted plaice and thornback ray with brown butter are just some of the reasons why Angela’s is still in rude health after more than half a century. angelasofmargate.com The Sportsman, Seasalter – for fine dining Probably the most well-known restaurant in the area, The Sportsman is a Michelin-starred gastropub in Seasalter but isn’t half as pretentious as that sounds. If you're visiting Whitstable, take a taxi out to The Sportsman for lunch then enjoy a leisurely walk back along the coast to walk off any excess. Bookings need to be made quite far in advance but it's worth it. Treading a clever line between casual and classy, the pub’s wooden floors, scrubbed pine tables and pumps of Shepherd Neame beer (brewed in nearby Faversham) maintain the feel of a rural pub (just). Likewise, when it comes to the food, there’s no pretension, just locally sourced seasonal ingredients cooked simply but with an expert understanding of flavour combinations. There are currently two menus across the week – the five course tasting menu or the three course midweek menu. The dishes on the menu changes frequently but there are always local meat and fish dishes (think Monkshill lamb, Thornback ray or Whitstable native oysters – at their best in July). Puddings are outstanding; we liked the apple soufflé with salted caramel ice cream. thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk Samphire, Whitstable – for Kentish produce The best Kentish produce is on offer at chef and owner George Begg’s cosy all-day dining high street bistro. Opened in 2006 a pebble’s throw from Whitstable beach, Samphire has been consistently popular with locals and visitors, including Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge, for seasonal dishes such as asparagus, ricotta and potato pithivier and brunch dishes such as sugar pit bacon loin with fried eggs and hash brown. samphirewhitstable.co.uk Bottega Caruso, Margate – for Italian This small Italian kitchen and shop started out as a pop-up stall at The Goods Shed in Canterbury, selling fresh pasta and Simona’s family sauces. Popular dishes on the menu include verdura e fagioli – a slow-cooked stew of greens, organic beans and smoked chilli – and handmade cavatelli pasta with a meaty Neapolitan ragu comprising slow-cooked beef shin, top rib, pork belly, pork rump, fennel sausages, meatballs and Simona’s family tomato sauce. bottegacaruso.com Melt, Margate – for gelato No trip to the coast is complete without an ice cream. And in Margate the freshly churned gelato from Melt is the best in town. Flavours range from peaches and cream to rhubarb and custard, peanut butter jelly and Turkish delight but they change all the time so no two days’ offering is the same. Find their parlour under the Sands Hotel, right on the seafront. facebook.com/MeltMargate Wheelers, Whitstable – for oysters Oysters are must-try whilst you're in Whitstable. Candyfloss-pink-fronted Wheelers has been dishing up oysters in its parlour-sized dining room since 1856. wheelersoysterbar.com Twenty Seven Harbour Street, Broadstairs – for sea views The sea views and food are equally stunning at this smart bay-side restaurant serving small plates cooked over fire. The restaurant, formerly known as Wyatt and Jones and still under the same ownership, has an upmarket but inviting feel with dark grey painted wood panelling and an open kitchen. Dishes from the charcoal oven might include cod loin served with a smoked cream veloute, trout and herring or roe or Kentish lamb rump with aubergine puree. The restaurant also opens for breakfast. The owners reckon the best seat in the house is table 11 at the bar with it’s own ‘cute nook’ and great views. twentysevenharbourstreet.co.uk Morelli's, Broadstairs – for ice cream Morelli's is a must-visit for ice cream lovers along the North Kent Coast. This branch has been here since 1932 and sells gelato in myriad flavours, from a vanilla to pistachio to nocciola. morellisgelato.com Bar Ingo, Broadstairs – for small plates This San Sebastian-inspired chef-led small plates bar, set on a double-fronted corner site yards from Broadstair’s sandy Viking Bay, is the latest addition to the town’s dining scene. Accepting walk-ins only, the intimate bar’s casually stylish interior features whitewashed brickwork and a tiled bar with counter dining where you can enjoy a regularly-changing blackboard menu of Spanish classics including chilled gazpacho soup, padron peppers with romesco and crema Catalan with cherries as well as a carefully chosen list of wines and craft beers. @‌bar_ingo_broadstairs Chapel Down, Tenterden – for a vineyard lunch One of the best-known English vineyards, Chapel Down covers a huge 325 acres of prime Kentish wine country. It’s open all year to visitors, and offers packages and gift experiences with tutored tastings. Alternatively, just go and have a look and pick up a treat from the terrific wine and fine food shop. Stop at Chapel Down’s smart restaurant, the Swan for lunch. chapeldown.com Click here to read about more of our favourite English vineyards More UK travel guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Manchester
Best restaurants in Broadstairs: where to eat and drink
Check out our top places to eat and drink in Broadstairs, a coastal town in Kent full of foodie spots
Planning a foodie seaside break? Check out the best restaurants in Broadstairs and other places to eat in our local guide. We have also found where to stay in Broadstairs if you want to make a weekend out of it and visit as many restaurants as you can... For more restaurant inspiration, check out our guide to the best restaurants in Deal, the best restaurants in Margate and the best restaurants in Bournemouth. Best restaurants in Broadstairs Twenty Seven Harbour Street – best for sea views The sea views and food are equally stunning at this smart bay-side restaurant serving small plates cooked over fire. The restaurant, formerly known as Wyatt and Jones and still under the same ownership, has an upmarket but inviting feel with dark grey painted wood panelling and an open kitchen. Dishes from the charcoal oven might include cod loin served with a smoked cream veloute, trout and herring or roe or Kentish lamb rump with aubergine puree. The restaurant also opens for breakfast. The owners reckon the best seat in the house is table 11 at the bar with it’s own ‘cute nook’ and great views. twentysevenharbourstreet.co.uk Kebbells – best for imaginative seafood plates Share globally-inspired seafood plates at this Michelin guide recommended restaurant set above Viking Bay. Take a seat at the counter in the handsome dining room with it’s parquet flooring and bare wood tables for imaginative creations like tandoori scallops, yogurt, crispy chickpeas, raisin gel, coriander or a whole flame grilled sea bream with garlic and lemon. Enjoy a cocktail-fuelled weekend brunch that might include Turkish eggs or chorizo patatas bravas. kebbells.com Albariño – best Spanish food in Broadstairs A stone’s throw from the seafront, this colourful and comfortable restaurant and deli with counter and table seating has been serving up the best Spanish and local produce for more than a decade. Acorn-fed Iberico pork belly might be served Spanish-style with clams, parsley and garlic, while locally landed day boat fish might include sea bass cured in gin served with couscous and pink grapefruit. The all-Spanish wine list features a selection of Albariño's and a sherry board of three different varieties served with olives, almonds and habas picantes (spicy roasted board beans). albarinorestaurant.co.uk Bar Ingo – best small plates in Broadstairs This San Sebastian-inspired chef-led small plates bar, set on a double-fronted corner site yards from Broadstair’s sandy Viking Bay, is the latest addition to the town’s dining scene. Accepting walk-ins only, the intimate bar’s casually stylish interior features whitewashed brickwork and a tiled bar with counter dining where you can enjoy a regularly-changing blackboard menu of Spanish classics including chilled gazpacho soup, padron peppers with romesco and crema Catalan with cherries as well as a carefully chosen list of wines and craft beers. @‌bar_ingo_broadstairs Morelli's – best ice cream in Broadstairs Morelli's is a must-visit for ice cream lovers along the North Kent Coast. This branch has been here since 1932 and sells gelato in myriad flavours, from a vanilla to pistachio to nocciola. morellisgelato.com Here are our favourite ice cream parlours in the UK to check out this summer... The Chapel – best pub in Broadstairs Continue your hoppy quest down the road at The Chapel, an alehouse set in a 17th century chapel that was once also used as a bookshop. The owners have been careful to keep the bookish atmosphere; grab a book from the shelf, a pint of local ale, a bar snack and, if you’re lucky, catch some live local music to boot. Samworth & Mee – best seafood restaurant in Broadstairs Before heading to the beach or harbour, don't miss the Samworth & Mee bistro in Broadstairs for comfort food, fresh seafood and excellent breakfasts (the French toast with berries and maple syrup is particularly good). Sandwiches shouldn't be overlooked here, either. If the crab sandwich with chips is on the menu, order it. As with most places in the area, fish and seafood is provided by local fisherman, Jason Llewellyn, and his shop, Fruit de la Mer along The Broadway (the high street). Stop off here on the way home if you want to take a slice of the seaside home with you. Samworth & Mee is at 9-11 Albion Street Osteria Pizzeria Posillipo – best Italian restaurant in Broadstairs For over 20 years, Broadstair’s Osteria Pizzeria Posillipo has been providing locals with real-deal Italian food (think rustic vibes and charming Italian service). The decked terrace draws in a lingering summer crowd who are happy to sip wine whilst grazing on antipasti and watching seagulls on the beach a stone’s throw away. Food is simple: Neopolitan-style pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven, fish and meat mains plus a good selection of pasta dishes. Go for the linguine Posillipo with clams, mussels and king prawns or a Borbone salad with rocket, Parma ham, Parmesan shavings and a caramelised balsamic vinegar drizzle. Just beware the huge portions. posillipo.co.uk Where to stay in Broadstairs Belvidere Place Check into Belvidere Place, a Broadstairs B&B run by the charismatic Jilly Sharpe. Full of characterful furniture finds (most of which are available to buy) it's a relaxed and eclectic place, with five stylish, idiosyncratic bedrooms set over three floors of a Regency House. For breakfast, there's no menu. Instead, Jilly will create what you fancy or just leave it up to her; you get the impression she can read her guests' tastes very well. Recent offerings include baked nectarines with marmalade, avocado on toast with parsley and chilli, local dry-cure bacon butties and simple dried fruits such as figs and dates served with slivers of manchego cheese. belvidereplace.co.uk More UK restaurant guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Manchester Best restaurants in the Lake District
Whitstable best restaurants: where to eat and drink
The seaside town of Whitstable has plenty to offer foodies, from Michelin-starred gastropubs and the best fish and chips to tapas and the best bakery
Looking for the best Whitstable restaurants? We've found the best places to eat in Whitstable in Kent and there's something for everyone: try Whitstable oysters, Michelin-starred dining, traditional tapas and much more. For more like this, discover more of our foodie day trips from London by train or for more seaside inspiration, check out our guides to the best restaurants in Deal and the best restaurants in Margate.. A popular choice for day-trippers in the southeast looking for a foodie day out by the sea, Whitstable deserves a little more lingering. In the summer, especially, this quaint little fishing town comes alive with the sound of fish and chip papers rustling, prosecco bottles being popped on the beach and oyster shells being cracked open. And each July it even hosts a whole festival dedicated to local Whitstable oysters. Best restaurants in Whitstable Samphire For Kentish produce The best Kentish produce is on offer at chef and owner George Begg’s cosy all-day dining high street bistro. Opened in 2006 a pebble’s throw from Whitstable beach, Samphire has been consistently popular with locals and visitors, including Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge, for seasonal dishes such as asparagus, ricotta and potato pithivier and brunch dishes such as sugar pit bacon loin with fried eggs and hash brown. samphirewhitstable.co.uk Harbour Street Tapas For tapas You’ll find this intimate tapas restaurant set among the boutique shops of Harbour Street. The simple decor of white-washed walls and wooden tables and chairs puts the spotlight squarely on the menu of classic Spanish dishes and more modern creations made with local produce. Choose from a plate of Jamón Ibérico, patatas bravas or tortilla or try pork belly with red cabbage and PX sauce, all paired with a glass of something from the short list of mainly Spanish wines. harbourstreettapas.com Grain & Hearth Best bakery in Whitstable Baker Adam Pagor relocated what was a micro-bakery in London to this bakery and cafe in Whitstable in 2019 and now has an outlet in nearby Faversham. Specialising in sourdough, this family-run neighbourhood spot on the edge of the town centre is renowned for its friendly welcoming atmosphere as well as its breakfast shakshuka and lunchtime sourdough sandwiches. In good weather enjoy a coffee and pastry in the charming courtyard garden. grainandhearth.co.uk Pearsons Arms Best pub for food in Whitstable Stroll along Whitstable’s pebble beach, then head to this whitewashed clapboard pub just yards from the sea for a cask ale and some seriously good Kentish food in the rustic first-floor dining room. Start with oysters with a compressed rhubarb and gin mignonette dressing or deep-fried with harissa mayonnaise, followed by locally caught lobster with garlic butter. pearsonsarmswhitstable.co.uk The Sportsman For Michelin-starred dining Probably the most well-known restaurant in the area, The Sportsman is a Michelin-starred gastropub in Seasalter but isn’t half as pretentious as that sounds. Take a taxi out to it for lunch then enjoy a leisurely walk back along the coast to walk off any excess. Bookings need to be made quite far in advance but it's worth it. The menu changes frequently but there are always local meat and fish dishes (think Monkshill lamb, Thornback ray or Whitstable native oysters - at their best in July). Puddings are outstanding; we liked the apple soufflé with salted caramel ice cream. thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk Wheelers Best oysters in Whitstable Oysters are must-try whilst you're in Whitstable. Candyfloss-pink-fronted Wheelers has been dishing up oysters in its parlour-sized dining room since 1856. wheelersoysterbar.com VC Jones Best fish and chips in Whitstable The best fish and chips in Whitstable? VC Jones, hands down in our book. The reason? They cook their chips in beef fat. True, the flavour isn't for everyone but the smell wafting out onto Harbour Street is enough to lure us in every time. It's a family owned and run chippie and has been for three generations, and one of the family will likely be serving you your supper. There’s almost always a queue of people outside, either waiting for a takeaway to eat on the beach, or waiting to eat in the restaurant. vcjones.co.uk The Cheese Box Best cheese shop in Whitstable Head to The Cheese Box on Harbour Street for all manner of local cheeses from Dark Horse Ancient Ashmore to Kentish Blue. It also sells cheeses from further afield. Order a cheeseboard to eat in, with a glass of wine. Or, if you’re after something more substantial, stock up here then head next door to its new sister restaurant headed up by local chef Michelle Booth. Wednesday nights are all about pies. thecheesebox.co.uk The Twelve Taps Best bar in Whitstable The vibe at this Whitstable bar is chilled and dogs are welcome. Try artisan gins such as Silent Pool, from Surrey, or Blackwoods, from the Shetlands (there are around 13 gins on the drinks menu), or order a Blueprint coffee or one of a regularly changing line-up of craft beers. thetwelvetaps.co.uk Jojo’s Best café in Whitstable It’s not strictly in Whitstable (happily if you want to escape the crowds it’s in neighbouring Tankerton, where the beach is quieter) but Jojo’s is a local institution. Renowned for its casual vibe and vibrant tapas-style menu (firm favourites include excellent cured meats, lamb cannon and calamari but there are always a few daily specials) bookings need to be made in advance, especially for dinner at weekends. The café at the front is a good spot for a coffee or a freshly squeezed juice. If the weather is nice, sit out at the front and watch kite-surfers riding past. jojosrestaurant.co.uk The Oyster and Chop House Best bistro in Herne Bay, Whitstable Not many people venture to Herne Bay for lunch or dinner. They do so mainly to go to the pier and the arcades, or for fish and chips. But our tip is to venture there specifically to eat at The Oyster and Chop House. Produce is sourced from the surrounding areas, including game from local hunter, John Caddick, and it’s great value. The seared scallops with apple and homemade cured ham are delicious, as is the steak bavette. oysterandchophouse.co.uk More UK travel guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge
Ruby-red blackthorn liqueur, seaweed-flecked sourdough and stuffed roast mallard are on the menu in this coastal county
Food and travel writer Clare Hargreaves takes us on a virtual foodie road trip through Kent, stopping off at country pubs, smokehouses and cheesemakers. Looking for more places to visit in Kent? Read our foodie guide to Margate here Many of us take the frothy white blossoms of the blackthorn tree as a sign that spring has finally sprung. But for forager Miles Irving, the thorny leaf shoots that follow are even more exciting. He gathers them from Kentish hedgerows for customers, some of whom blend the leaves with red wine and brandy to create épine (thorn) aperitif, a drink that hails from France. The ruby-red liquor tasted, surprisingly, of of almond, as I discover when I join the locals (and resident cat Monty) at the bar of The Red Lion in Stodmarsh, a traditional clapboard building buried among the lanes of north-east Kent. The only passing traffic is wellied walkers visiting the neighbouring nature reserve. “You only come here if you want to be here, or you’re lost,” says front-of-house Mark Winstone. Bottles of épine join the rainbow of homemade infusions that line the bar’s shelves. There’s vodka infused with watermint (an edible plant found in streams), horseradish gin (used in the pub’s bloody mary, alongside foraged wild celery) and spirits flavoured with anything from moss to porcini and wild passion fruit. As I sip my aperitif, its subtle almond flavours remind me of amaretto – this is the homemade, Kentish, version. Épine is just one of many collaborations between Miles, who’s been foraging professionally for nearly two decades, and The Red Lion’s chefs, Morgan Lewis and John Young. This is a pub that’s always had a reputation for being eccentric. But now, thanks to enthusiastic chefs and a wild larder, its eccentricity has an off-the-wall flavour – nothing is ordinary here. Wood ants that taste of balsamic vinegar give an acidic crunch to salads, Whitstable oysters come with seaside succulents, and if you order a dirty martini it will be made not with olive brine, but with gin infused with wild sea greens. I kick off my dinner with a poached duck egg ringed with foraged sea cabbage, and marble-sized sprouting bulbs of three-cornered leek that add a garlicky sweetness. “I’d stored the bulbs to plant, but discovered they’d sprouted…so I decided to use them in a dish,” smiles Morgan. The Red Lion’s position at the heart of Kent’s eastern nose means it draws on coast and woodland alike. At Swalecliffe, near Whitstable, I meet Miles’s picking manager, Fred Rother, who swapped his drumsticks (Fred used to play in the rock band, Syd Arthur) for a forager’s knife after developing hearing problems. An icy wind gnaws our bones as we crouch on the shingle, but Fred seems unperturbed as he gathers glossy green sea beet. “At home I cook beet like spinach – it’s great in a saag aloo,” he says. Later, I scour the woods around Stodmarsh for winter chanterelles with Nick Robinson, who, when he’s not supplying The Red Lion, runs mushroom foraging courses from his Oast Smokehouse in Sandwich. In spring the search begins for his holy grail: honeycomb-fleshed morels. “They’re sublime in a poulet aux morilles [chicken breast with morels],” he says, grinning through his handlebar moustache. There’s plenty of fish, fruit and game here, too. Dover sole, sea bass and skate are landed at the tiny port at Broadstairs, and delivered to the pub by Chapman’s fishmongers. In autumn, Miles and Fred forage for citrussy sea buckthorn berries and medlars that, when left to rot or ‘blet’, turn gooey. Then, in winter, game arrives as and when it’s been shot. I also notice a brace of mallards being presented to The Red Lion’s kitchen, by Stour Valley Game’s owner Daran Byrom – they’ll be cooked for the pub’s Sunday roast. The birds are later stuffed with foraged treasures and served with a zingy pickled walnut relish, made from walnuts grown in St Mary’s Platt (west Kent), where I meet grower Alexander Hunt. “To pickle walnuts, you pick the nuts green, around late June, before a shell has started to form,” he says as we tour the walnut groves behind his cottage. “My family always ate pickled walnuts with cheese and cold meat.” With just eight acres of trees, Alexander is one of only a handful of people cultivating walnuts in the UK. “Squirrels make it notoriously difficult, which is why we like selling the walnuts green,” he says. Luckily it’s a growing market, with green walnuts demanded both by makers of preserves and bitters, and by companies manufacturing dyes. As for the pub’s dairy produce – including creamy milk, and primrose-yellow cream so thick you can stand a spoon in it – much of that comes from the pedigree Guernsey cows at Hinxden Farm, also in west Kent. What John and Morgan don’t use in indulgent desserts (including juniper and marshmallow chocolate sponge) they churn into butter, which is delicious slathered over sourdough bread made from flour stone-ground at Eckley Farm outside Staplehurst. As you’d expect, sourdough at The Red Lion is far from ordinary – local seaweeds, herbs or chanterelles are thrown in for extra flavour. If you fancy something to accompany your épine, there’s Ancient Ashmore cheese from Jane Bowyer at Cheesemakers of Canterbury. The cheddar-style hard cheese is crafted by hand to an old smallholder’s recipe, using unpasteurised milk from two local dairy farms. Cheeses are left to mature on pine shelves in the dairy’s maturing room, and are continually turned and rubbed to ensure an even spread of rind mould. Bowyer’s Farmhouse and Ancient Ashmore are well known cheeses, but The Red Lion serves Jane’s 24-month-aged Top Shelf vintage version – it’s as caramel-y, crystalline and crumbly as an aged gouda. Pair it with a slice of sourdough and a chunk of the house plumbrillo, and you’ll make even the fussiest ploughman happy. Of course, this corner of Kent doesn’t have a monopoly on great local food. Over in the west, Will Devlin, chef-owner of The Small Holding in Kilndown, is launching farm and forage days this May, to cater for a surge of interest in the produce he uses. Starting with coffee and homemade pastries at the restaurant, the experience will include touring Will’s smallholding before heading out to forage further afield (dandelions and wild garlic in spring; elderflowers and wild strawberries in early summer; and damsons, sloes and cobnuts in autumn). Finally, guests enjoy a seasonal tasting menu that might include hogget with fennel and chilli; and strawberry with basil and elderflower. In the county’s northern reaches, the Isle of Sheppey, I meet two more entrepreneurs just as enthusiastic about Kent’s varied larder. Georgina and Gareth Fulton accommodate guests in modernist-style shepherd’s huts on their 3,300-acre Elmley nature reserve (read our full review of Elmley here). After a night snuggled under luxury bed linen and Romney Marsh Wools blankets, you wake up to scarlet sunrises illuminating Elmley’s vast marshland wilderness and, if you’re lucky, barn owls flying off to find breakfast. Fortunately, guests don’t have to hunt for their food, if they opt for Elmley’s food-delivery service. Brought in wicker hampers to your hut, a thoughtfully chosen range of local foods is mostly sourced from Macknade’s state-of-the-art foodhall in nearby Faversham. A breakfast bircher muesli made using local Duskin apple juice kicks off the day nicely, while a pie made from Kentish pasture-fed beef makes for a satisfying supper. But the highlight is a terrific dahl, peppered with carrot and courgette, which arrives with a side platter of rosy-hued pickled radishes at lunchtime. It’s made by Katy Newton as part of her Wasted Kitchen business, which turns spoiled or surplus fruit and vegetables (mainly from Macknade but also from local farmers) into delicious ready meals, dips and pickles. Equally full of flavour is her fragrant orange and almond cake, served in Elmley’s magnificent American-style barn for afternoon tea. Enjoy this from the comfort of a slouchy sofa strewn with rugs and hot-water bottles. The cake is made with oranges and cloves previously used to concoct a spiced Kentish damson shrub, part of Katy’s Coxy’s drinks brand that’s on sale in the barn’s honesty bar. As in so much of this food-loving county, nothing is ordinary here. For more information see visitkent.co.uk or follow #oliveeatskent. Follow Clare @larderloutUK Words and photographs by Clare Hargreaves, top image by Getty
Locally grown yuzu, new-wave ciders and caramelised goat’s cheese are just some of the culinary surprises hidden in this region’s rolling hills and beech woods
Looking for pubs in Sussex? Want to know what to eat in the South East region? Food and travel writer Clare Hargreaves takes us on a foodie road trip though Sussex, stopping off at dairy farms, microbreweries and gastro pubs. They’re rebellious, inquisitive, sometimes bolshy and their pet hate is fresh air. No, not your stereotypical teenager but the 220 coffee-and-cream milking goats belonging to Kevin and Alison Blunt of Greenacres Farm in East Sussex. Neither of the Blunts hail from a farming family – he trained as a biochemist, she as a nurse – but in the late 1980s the couple decided to apply their expertise to a different science: making an exquisite soft mould-ripened goat’s cheese, which they christened Golden Cross after their hamlet. I meet the Blunts on their six-acre farm, north of Eastbourne. Kevin is herding the goats from their straw-bedded barns out into the fields, where they make a beeline for the hawthorn hedges. “Goats are browsers not grazers so they find hedges a lot more interesting than grass,” says Kevin. “They hate the wet and cold, so after a few minutes outside they’re usually asking to go back in.” In the dairy, Alison and son Matthew ladle raw goat’s milk curds into log-shaped moulds, following a recipe bequeathed to them by a French cheesemaker. Once salted and dried, the cheese logs are dusted with charcoal, which creates a pleasing border between the pure white cheese inside and the velvety penicillium mould enveloping it. Golden Cross is not just making awards judges and cheese-lovers happy but also local chefs. One of them, Matt Gillan, has just set up shop in nearby Slaugham (pronounced Slaffam) following a successful crowdfunding campaign. Previously head chef at The Pass at South Lodge hotel, near Horsham, where he won a Michelin star, Gillan’s latest venture is Heritage, a gastro-pub-with-rooms hidden among the thick beech woods of the High Weald, West Sussex. Matt is best known for goat’s meat rather than cheese, having featured the meat in his winning dish on Great British Menu in 2015. But he’s smitten by Kevin and Alison’s goat’s cheese, which for one of his starters he whips up into a mousse and partners with discs of raw, earthy beetroot, a dollop of beetroot sorbet and ruby pearls of raspberry vinegar. “It’s hard to find a goat’s cheese that isn’t either young and citrussy, or pungent and farmyardy, but Golden Cross is bang in the middle,” says Matt. “It’s fresh, but not too fresh, and it’s robust enough to stand up to other ingredients. It’s one of the few British goat’s cheeses I really like.” Matt also uses the cheese in a ‘cheeseboard’ dish that substitutes the usual mixed platter for a serving of Golden Cross that’s sprinkled with demerara then grilled to make a sort of fromage brûlée, and paired with cubes of pickled Bramley apple and fuschia-edged coins of radish. Matt hit lucky with vegetables, too. South of Slaugham, in a dip in the South Downs near the market town of Lewes, Robin Williams and his Japanese wife, Ikuko Suzuki, are growing mainly Japanese vegetables and herbs according to the principles of what they call “natural agriculture” – which broadly means using careful inter-planting to pull in native predators and parasites instead of deploying artificial fertilisers or pesticides. “We grow the majority of our crops outside for nutrition and flavour,” says Robin. “Although our slow-grow methods mean a shorter growing season, they also concentrate their taste.” Chefs at restaurants ranging from Heritage to London’s The Ledbury, Koya and Lyle’s are all regular customers of NamaYasai, which translates as ‘raw’ and ‘vegetable’. I ask Robin if I can watch his crops being harvested. “Sure, just get here at one,” he says. I’m a little surprised that harvesting starts so late in the day but he means 1am (ensuring customers receive produce that is only two to 12 hours from being picked). So I twist through ink-black country lanes, then bump up a track into the woods to find his young balaclava-clad team harvesting NamaYasai’s fields by headtorch. It’s eerily quiet as each gets on with the job in hand – wresting pink or white daikons (Asian radishes) from their beds of soft Sussex earth, or plucking armfuls of zig-zag-leafed shiso. Inside coriander-fragrant greenhouses, I spy Japanese aubergines, delicate ruby chard seedlings, and spiky bitter melons that look like reptiles. As a blood-orange sun peeks over the distant chalky rump of the South Downs, the picking ends and the task of loading the vegetables onto vans begins. The produce hits restaurants a few hours later, ensuring it’s as squeakily fresh as possible. Since 2016 NamaYasai has also been producing the Japanese citrus fruit yuzu, another of Matt’s favourites – you’ll find a yuzu syrup giving an exotic citrussy kick to a caramel parfait and bay leaf ice cream on his tasting menus. There’s fruit of a more conventional kind at Old Mill Farm, near Bolney, where Glyn Stephens has been growing apples for nearly 40 years. In the 1990s British apple growers were struggling to compete with the cheap foreign imports flooding supermarket shelves, so the Stephens needed to diversify. Glyn’s son Tom, then at university, decided juicing was the way ahead. “It was sell up or juice, so I decided to give it a go,” says Tom, as he shows me his orchards of Discoveries, views of the South Downs’ Devil’s Dyke in the distance. Under the name of Wobblegate, he now supplies cafés, restaurants and bars across the UK. Matt, who’s known Tom since his South Lodge days, is an enthusiastic customer, serving Wobblegate juice in Heritage’s bar, pairing it with pumpkin-spiced Aluna coconut rum in a cocktail; and using it in desserts such as apple terrine, a refined version of tarte tatin that comes with a grass-green Wobblegate sorbet. Not content with producing simple fruit juice, Tom is now branching into ciders, which he serves along with other local artisan fermentations in his farm-based taproom. His sparkling Rebel Root Obsession, modelled on the dry, high-acidity ciders of the US, and his 2017-vintage still Rebel Root Outcider, made just from Bramleys (“something we were told couldn’t be done”), are both winners. He’s also joining forces with local vineyards to produce a wine-cider fusion that he hopes will take his cider to another level. For now, though, it’s just Tom’s sparkling Eden cider that’s on the pump at Heritage’s bar. It’s in good company, served alongside aptly-named Heritage ale made by Horsham’s Firebird microbrewery to a recipe from co-owner Bill King’s great-great-granddad, and sparkling wine produced by the Goring family from champagne grapes on their tiny Wiston vineyard down near Washington. I try the latter in Heritage’s Forest Fizz cocktail, blended with a homemade roasted chestnut and cherry shrub, and Æcorn Aperitif’s non-alcoholic acorn-based aperitif. Earthy and subtly sweet, with hints of winter spices, it’s the perfect preamble to my lunch of venison loin – pink, soft as butter, and paired with a pastilla parcel filled with the haunch. The meat comes with an array of bitter-sweet accompaniments: frondy enoki mushroom, slightly otherworldly and pleasingly crunchy; blobs of divine chicory caramel; and translucent tangles of pickled turnip. It’s all held together by a dainty dribble of lemony sour-cherry sauce that’s flecked with cocoa nibs – intriguing, but it works. The venison (fallow and roe), culled from large estates and parks along the South Downs by Jack Smallman, has a subtle flavour that’s revealed rather than disguised by Matt’s unusual additions. But Heritage’s must-try dish, The Herder, is, unsurprisingly, based around goat meat – meat from billy kids born to dairy goats that would otherwise be slaughtered and wasted – from stuffed loin to salt-baked leg, barbecued shoulder and herder pie. The dish even includes goat-fat dumplings. Matt’s mother was from St Helena and regularly cooked goat at home, so the dish proudly celebrates his personal heritage. Words and photographs by Clare Hargreaves For more info, see experiencewestsussex.com
The Salutation, Sandwich: restaurant and hotel review
Spend the night at this stately hotel for an affordable fine-dining dinner and al fresco afternoon tea
Looking for places to stay in Kent? Want a country-yet-contemporary hotel? Read our review of The Salutation, and check out more places to eat in Kent here. ***This hotel has now closed The Salutation in a nutshell Just 200ft from the River Stour, the stately Salutation, designed by Edwin Lutyens, is a masterpiece in Georgian grandeur (albeit with an uber-modern tasting room and glass-fronted open kitchen downstairs). The vibe It’s an elegant place, where the atmosphere is hushed and the carpets are spotless. Expect sweeping staircases, twisted columns, double-height sash windows and nearly four acres of carefully tended gardens (also designed by Lutyens). If you fancy a stroll, head to the Poplar walk then continue to the wet meadow, where you can sit awhile and admire the house from a distance. There’s also a timber-clad lounge-cum-bar, a drawing room where afternoon tea is served, and a pretty terrace that looks out onto the gardens. Outside, also on the estate, is a gift shop, café and a small nursery where you can buy plants (more than 100 of those on sale can’t be found anywhere else in the country). Which room should I book at The Salutation? All eight bedrooms are vast, with views of the garden and St Clement’s Church beyond. Billowing curtains, Chesterfield-style sofas and ornate bed canopies lend a heritage feel to four of the rooms, while the others (Farrer, Lutyens, Jekyll and Gertrude) are more contemporary with navy blue walls, geometric rugs and sloping roofs. You can make your own tea and coffee, but there are no fridges for fresh milk. The food and drink The kitchen, refreshed in 2017 when chef Shane Hughes took over, is designed to be entirely transparent. It’s glass-fronted, so diners (who eat at gnarled wooden benches) can watch their meal come together (or turn to face the other side of the room and enjoy tropical garden views). The dining room itself is deliberately muted – dove grey walls, simple panelling and modern lighting – to let those views shine. Order the tasting menu (for a very reasonable £48 per person) to try the best of Shane’s cooking. Pre-dinner snacks might include truffled pea piped back into its shell, and mini mac ’n’ cheese bites made interesting with a background hit of fermented chilli (six weeks in the making). You might also try dark wedges of Guinness sourdough with smoked butter, delicately poached Scottish scallops (lifted with grapefruit) and duck breast with sticky honey sauce, pull-apart confit duck leg and roast butternut squash layered with blue cheese. The wine list is compiled by Master of Wine Vincent Gasnier and, though predominantly French, includes Kentish bottles from Biddenden and Chapel Down vineyards. Breakfast Though not quite as show-stopping as dinner, this includes stewed fruits, cereals, pastries and hot dishes cooked to order (including the egg’s benedict, draped in velvety hollandaise). What else can foodies do? Be sure to visit the kitchen garden (behind the wet meadow), to see the herbs and heritage vegetables that go into Shane’s menus. He works in conjunction with head gardener Steve Edney to keep the food as seasonal and local as possible. Is it family friendly? Children are welcome, but the exclusive feel of the main house could make parents wary of vocal children. Instead, book the Coach House (two bedrooms and a kitchen) or the three-bedroom Gardener’s Cottage, both of which sit in The Salutation’s grounds. olive tip Take afternoon tea on the terrace, right in front of the bowling green. It’s eat-all-you-like, and includes homemade scones, carrot cake with spiced mascarpone and bottomless champagne. the-salutation.com Words by Charlotte Morgan
Heckfield Place, Hampshire: hotel review
Read our hotel and restaurant review of Heckfield Place, a grand and artfully designed hotel in Hampshire offering 46 individually styled bedrooms, a wood-fired restaurant called Hearth and a no-fuss, ingredient-led restaurant called Marle
Looking for Hampshire hotels? Read our Heckfield Place hotel review, a luxury spa hotel in Hampshire. What is Heckfield Place's USP? The UK’s longest-awaited hotel is finally open. Six years on from its originally touted opening date, Heckfield Place in Hampshire launched in late summer 2018 and the consensus is that it was worth the wait. Expect 46 elegant bedrooms and two restaurants directed by chef Skye Gyngell (her restaurant Spring, in Somerset House, is also backed by Heckfield’s owner, Gerald Chan). Chan wants the place to feel like home rather than a hotel; intimate touches include allowing his private collection of paintings and photography to be hung across the house. He is also committed to sustainability, so there is not just an onsite biodynamic kitchen garden but also a whole farm to supply the hotel’s two restaurants, Marle and Hearth. In addition, the 400 acres of parkland that surround the hotel are being restored to their 19th century-style glory days. And the vibe? Intimate, opulent, charming and one of a kind. For example, the flowers and veg are grown biodynamically, according to phases of the moon, and leaves from the grounds’ ancient trees - parts of an arboretum planted by 19th century horticulturalist William Wildsmith - are left where they lie to create mulch instead of being leaf-blowered away. Collaborations with craftspeople are encouraged and tea is supplied by Henrietta Lovell’s Rare Tea Company. Logs for Hearth, where cooking is only over fire, have been carefully chosen by log-savant Mark Parr, of the London Log Co. Jane Scotter of Fern Verrow, the biodynamic farm in Herefordshire that works in partnership with Gyngell, has been consulting. The aim is to redefine modern luxury, and woo a chic international crowd, London’s food pilgrims and locals. Which room should I book at Heckfield Place? Under interior designer Ben Thompson’s influence, the hotel’s 46 bedrooms are decorated in a palate of soft earthy colours, with exposed plaster and distressed walnut floors interjected with chandeliers, worn Persian carpets and rush mats. Diminutive but cosy rooms along the corridor area are the most affordable but the main house is where it’s at for unadulterated elegance, with six signature rooms (our favourite is The Heath Room, deliciously sumptuous with a sitting room of French hand-painted bird silk panels). Start saving now for a night in the Long Room; this enormous suite, with its own private kitchen, costs £10,000 per night. What’s good to drink? The dark blue Moon bar, with its open fire and mirror ball, is overseen by Jonas Stern, whose CV includes Mayfair’s Isabel and Jason Atherton’s Pollen Street Social. Stern has trained up the staff and created nine Moon signature cocktails. Wine buffs can swoon over the small but punchy wine cellar where head of wine, Louise Gordon, has had carte blanche over her selection. A 1944 Chateau Latour, a prized Sassicaia and a booty of limited-edition organic and biodynamic bottles are among the 320 bins. And to eat? Hearth, Heckfield Place's wood-fired restaurant, hasn’t launched when we visit, so we head to Marle for dinner, open to guests and the public. Gyngell, the culinary director, will be juggling two days in Hampshire and five in town at Spring. Bumping into her at Marle’s entrance, she explains that Heckfield will have a warmer, smokier menu, with more slow cooking than Spring. “We’re in the countryside so the menus are more robust, but still with a lightness of touch.” Another difference is that, at Heckfield, there’s a 400-acre estate to draw from, and to inspire; the restaurant has a terrific terrace, looking out over sweeping lawns with a glinting fountain and lake stretching beyond. Inside, it’s a dreamy space with shelves of pickles and terracotta pots elbowing wicker chairs and bright flowers. Windows are a focus, too; we’ve never been in a restaurant streaming with so much natural light before. To kick off proceedings, it’s beetroot, carrots and burrata with datterini tomatoes and black olive dressing. These veg have moved two minutes from field to kitchen and you can tell; a reminder that summer isn’t quite finished, they’re radiant with sunny sweetness. Gyngell is known for letting her ingredients sing and avoiding fuss and our carpaccio of River Test trout - “the Test is just over there,” points the waitress to a far-off valley - is testament to this ethos. There’s freshness and vibrancy, thanks to pickled tomatillos and smoked creme fraiche. All is washed down with an organic Blank Bottle Jimny Verdelho, Western Cape and Gusbourne Estate’s English Chardonnay, perfectly hitting a bacchanalian spot. Following fast is turbot with grilled cucumber and bearnaise sauce - lustrous, creamy, and perfectly fleshy. The poached short rib - slow-cooked for 12 hours - with onion rings is equally accomplished. To finish off, we obliterate a fennel pollen panna cotta and almond tart with plum ice cream, a gleeful marriage of sharp and sweet. What’s the breakfast like? Marle is a temple to the joys of breaking fast. Baskets of sourdough, rye toast and pastries are in abundance. Other heroes are the home-made butter, apple buckwheat bread and Heckfield homemade fig leaf yoghurt with granola. I opt for sticky buckwheat crepes with plum jam and whipped butter, though fans of cooked breakfasts should try the home-cured bellow bacon and eggs on sourdough, or bubble and squeak with fried egg and kasundi (a Bengali-Indian relish). Commendably the breakfast menus here change frequently. Any other food experiences I shouldn’t miss? Definitely sign up for a farm tour. You can snaffle tips on how to grow veg without using pesticides, stroll the paths by the orchards and greenhouses, meet the bees, snuffling saddleback pigs, laying chickens and feather-footed bantams. To get more hands-on, sign up for a class at The Assembly (think autumn workshops on apple-storing and talks with Gyngell and Fern Verrow’s Jane Scotter). Is Heckfield Place family-friendly? Families are welcome to stay in the corridor rooms, but not the main house. As for specific playrooms or children’s menus, the hotel has plans to develop these but hasn’t done so as yet. There are, however, occasional Mud & Guts kids adventure workshops in the schedule. Would we bring our small people to Heckfield? Probably not, as it’s so geared towards adults at present. If you do bring children with you, make a beeline for Wellington Country Park, the neighbouring estate. It’s a kids’ utopia with dinosaurs, toy trains and zip wires (and riding for older children). What can I do while I’m there? A cardio injection can be sated at the gym, but the extensive grounds mean plenty of jogging routes and bike rides – or go further afield across the myriad footpaths and bridle paths that wind into the Hampshire countryside, as well as fly fishing on the Whitewater river. The upper and lower walled garden of wisteria, lavender and English roses make a heady short walk. For wellness-whippets, there is Little Bothy spa, offering personal training, yoga, ballet and pilates, as well as five treatment rooms to dally in. Best of all is the hotel’s 67-seater private cinema - for talks and films - and a cellar bar. olive says… Winter suits Heckfield. There are seven elegant fireplaces in the main house (even some of the bathrooms have log fires). Go for a long walk then find a spot by one of those fireplaces in the drawing room for afternoon tea (check out our guide to the best afternoon tea recipes here) centred around an insanely beautiful cake each day (in our case an exquisitely presented red velvet cake….). Words by Chloe Scott-Moncrieff Photos by Heckfield Place (heckfieldplace.com).
The top 10 restaurants, cafes, pubs and foodie B&Bs to try in Hampshire's Winchester, from old fashioned watering holes to modern lunchtime spots
Winchester, 2016's ‘best place to live in Britain’*, is indeed a beautiful city. In the space of a 10-minute walk you can enjoy Winchester High Street peppered with talented buskers, imposing views of Winchester Cathedral and the River Kitchen, which passes through the National Trust’s city watermill. But it’s Winchester's restaurants and foodie scene that attracts us the most – take a look at our top 10 suggestions for where to eat and drink in Winchester. Discover more city guides with our pick of the best restaurants in St Albans, best restaurants in Oxford and best restaurants in Sheffield. Best places to eat and drink in Winchester Coffee Lab UK – best coffee in Winchester Dhan Tamang, 5-time reigning UK latte art champion, travels the country making coffees look beautiful. You can find him most regularly behind the coffee machine at this smart coffee shop in Winchester. The Roasting Party roasts the coffee, with a bespoke house blend called Create. The knowledgeable and passionate barista team also serves guest blends and single origin coffee. @coffeelabacademy Which coffee to order: The flat white made with house Create blend, the flavour is just delightful, with milk chocolate and strawberry jam notes. Forte Kitchen – best for lunch in Winchester A top spot for lunch (although they do serve dinner on Fridays and Saturdays), Forte Kitchen on Parchment Street is easy to miss – the entrance may be tiny, but inside it’s a large, airy space with charcoal grey walls and clusters of industrial lights that look like giant spiders. There’s plenty to choose from for lunch, but we like the sound of honey and orange roast ham with fried, free-range eggs and hand-cut chips; or the pastrami sandwich with gherkins and mustard. fortekitchen.co.uk The Wykeham Arms – best pub in Winchester Just a short walk from the house Jane Austen once lived in is The Wykeham Arms, an apparent favourite of Colin Firth and Robert Plant. It’s an 18th century coaching inn with beautiful curved, Georgian bow doors, a cosy but bright bar that’s managed to escape modernisation (we loved those tankards hanging from the ceiling) and a separate dining room decorated with wonky framed photos, Persian rugs, gnarled oak chairs and more tankards. It’s easy to imagine Austen in here, scribbling away by one of the original fireplaces. There are rooms upstairs (including superior doubles with four-poster beds) and it’s a popular place for dinner – book in advance for prettily presented plates of ambitious seasonal food, including tempura oysters with wasabi ice cream; Hampshire ribeye steak; and chicken and pig’s trotter pie with mash and liquor. wykehamarmswinchester.co.uk The Chesil Rectory – best gastro pub in Winchester Both inside and out, The Chesil Rectory looks like it belongs in Godric’s Hollow. The building dates back to 1425 and is charmingly wonky, with an original black-beamed frontage and tiny entrance door that livestock once trampled through. There’s a romantic, candlelit atmosphere (see how many vintage chandeliers you can count) and a delicate style of cooking. To start, a vibrant risotto made from local Secrett’s Farm beetroot was ever so slightly sweet, with a subtle tang from Hampshire goats’ cheese and fresh, herby rocket pesto. Rosemary gnocchi, another starter, was crispy but buttery soft inside; it came with charred onions for a pleasant, barbecued taste. Peppered Hampshire venison was a minute-or-so undercooked, but still impressed with the intensity of flavour, matched by a syrupy blackcurrant jus and rich confit root vegetables. Caramelised poached pears were balanced on a sable biscuit, with billowy Chantilly cream for company, and a precise slice of chocolate tart was decorated with candied almonds, coffee cream and a scoop of malty ice cream. chesilrectory.co.uk Palm Pan Asia – best Thai food in Wincchester Relatively new to Winchester’s foodie scene is Palm Pan Asia on the High Street. What used to be a Blockbuster video store is now a modern, unfussy Thai and South East Asian restaurant that’s already gained a loyal local following. The Koong Chu Chi (prawn red curry) is one of their signature dishes. palmpanasia.co.uk Rick Stein – best high street restaurant in Winchester Rick Stein’s High Street restaurant was the first of his chain to open outside Cornwall. There’s a set lunch menu, separate children’s menu and an evening à la carte that includes crab linguine, gremolata prawns, langoustines on ice and an Indonesian curry with sea bass, cod, prawns and crispy shallots. rickstein.com/eat-with-us/rick-stein-winchester Sakura – best Japanese restaurant in Winchester Perhaps the best place for Japanese food in Winchester. It’s ultra-modern inside (bright pink walls and shiny wooden floors) but the food is time-honoured and authentic – choose from sushi, sashimi or teppanyaki dishes, the latter of which involves chefs cooking on hot iron plates in front of diners. Highlights include lobster teppanyaki and wagyu beef teppanyaki. sakurajapanese.co.uk * The Sunday Times Best Places to Live guide, 2016 Written by Charlotte Morgan, July 2016 Updated by Alex Crossley, August 2018
Ramsgate foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
Discover our pick of the best places to eat and drink in Ramsgate on the northeast coast of Kent
Looking for Ramsgate restaurants? This seaside town on the far northeast tip of Kent cashes in on old-world charm, offering hungry visitors much more than your standard beachside fish and chips. Here are our best places to eat and drink in Ramsgate... Arya – best small plates restaurant in Ramsgate To get to Arya, you have to go through The Ravensgate Arms – not exactly a hardship. Leave yourself time for a pre-dinner cocktail, the staff will happily add it to your restaurant bill, to be paid at the end. Enquiring glances follow you as you head up the stairs behind an unmarked door. At the top, a window into the kitchen gives you a glimpse of the action before you’re ushered into the small, six-table dining room decorated with local art, all of which is for sale. The menu is as petite as the dining room, but with three snacks, six small plates, three sharing plates and three desserts, there’s still plenty of choice – if, by some miracle, you’re not tempted to order one of everything. The larger sharing plates are simple but focused: baked Tunworth cheese with bread, whole bream with pink fir potatoes and Iberico pork with padron peppers. Read our full review of Arya here Vinyl Head – best vegan food in Ramsgate For a vinyl and vegan vibe, head to Vinyl Head café-cum-record store in Ramsgate’s Georgian heart. facebook.com/vinylheadramsgate The Albion – best place to stay in Ramsgate On the corner of grand Wellington Crescent, overlooking Ramsgate’s harbour, The Albion hotel is in prime position for sea-gazing, especially if you book the suite that comes with a wraparound terrace. The nine bedrooms at this Regency-style hotel are set around a beautiful circling staircase and come with fine bedlinen, plush carpets and an immaculate finish. The on-site restaurant and bar, Townley's, has just been renovated and covers most bases, from super-healthy salads to sliders, small plate sharing dishes to larger meat and fish dishes (try the whole chicken for two). If you visit at the weekend and don't fancy running the gauntlet of the noisier bars along the harbour, stay here and wallow in the elegant surroundings of the lounge areas or the hotel bar. albionhouseramsgate.co.uk Words and pictures by Leanne Bracey and Pami Hoggatt.
The Isle of Wight foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
Our round-up of the best places to eat and drink on the Isle of Wight. Including Gallybagger cheese soufflé at The Royal, pretty plates from Robert Thompson, and all things Danish at The Little Gloster
Brits have been holidaying on the Isle of Wight for nearly 200 years, many of them inspired by Queen Victoria, who built a much-loved retreat (Osborne House) there. It’s partly that bygone charm that attracts us today. On the island’s southern tip you can stay in a hotel – The Royal, distinguished by its original wrought-iron porch – that the Michelin Guide has recommended every year since it was first published in 1911. But skip over to Newport or Cowes and you’ll find ambitious young restaurateurs transforming island produce into clean, modern food that challenges the Isle of Wight’s nostalgic reputation. olive’s must-visits for foodies on the Isle of Wight The Royal – for a Victorian experience Afternoon tea served on manicured lawns and a lofty dining room that looks as if it once doubled as a ballroom show that The Royal hasn’t lost its Victorian feel. Bedrooms enjoy the same ambience (arched, floor-to-ceiling windows are a highlight), and most are painted sky blue to compliment the views of Ventnor Bay, a five-minute walk away. Perhaps it’s the old fashioned dining room, but we didn’t expect such clever, delicate cooking from The Royal’s restaurant. A cheese soufflé made from Isle of Wight Gallybagger cheese (similar to cheddar) was so light that it evaporated on the tongue; and pearly white lemon sole caught that day had just the right level of bite. Prune and Armagnac soufflé was 10/10. The Little Gloster – for a Scandi sleepover At the opposite end of the scale, The Little Gloster in Cowes takes inspiration from co-owner Ben Cooke’s Danish grandmother. Set against The Solent, a stretch of water usually peppered with sailboats, it looks like an unfussy little bungalow from the outside; but inside its clean, white interiors are illuminated by candlelight, Scandinavian-style. There are three bedrooms, all large suites, and all with the same minimalistic-yet-cosy feel – watch the sailboats race from your very own veranda, decorated with squashy cushions. Not surprisingly, The Little Gloster offers a subtly Scandinavian-inspired menu – try house-cured gravadlax with a shot of homemade aquavit (dangerous, but excellent), or catch-of-the-day with punchy pickled cockles and vegetal seaweed mash. Even the burger comes with Danish pickles. Thompson's – for fine-dining For a more modern menu, head to Thompson’s in Newport. Regular visitors to the island will know Robert Thompson’s cooking from his days heading up the kitchen at Michelin-starred The Hambrough in Ventnor, but this is his first solo venture. Book a table and you can watch Robert at work in his tiny open-plan kitchen. Here he produces dishes such as smoked wood pigeon carpaccio – velvety soft and dramatically presented under a glass globe that billows smoke when removed – and skate wing served with rich, porky black pudding balls. New for 2019, Robert has been recruited by The George Hotel in Yarmouth (on the west coast) as its new executive chef. He'll be splitting his time between Thompson's and the hotel (where he previously worked as a chef, in 2014), designing menus, recruiting staff and cooking at both. There'll be a new outdoors kitchen, with views of The Solent, where guests can relax in the summer whilst watching Robert and his team barbecue local produce. Dimbola Lodge – for afternoon tea Take in the beauty of Tennyson Down (the poet lived on the island for more than 10 years) on a walk from The Needles to Freshwater Bay. Stop off along the way at Dimbola Lodge in Freshwater (once home to Victorian photographer Julia Margaret Cameron) for fat scones with jam and cream. The Hut – for seafood with a view Colwell Bay restaurant, The Hut, perches on the water's edge, with sparkling views of The Solent out to Lymington and fresh seafood literally on its doorstep. It's a timber-clad bungalow, flanked by stripy beach huts, with a suntrap terrace, rope fences and enough seats for everyone. Reach it by boat (The Hut has its own fleet of dinghies), foot or car, and order garlic butter grilled lobster – they served over 1,000 every week in summer 2018 – halibut fish tacos and tempura samphire. Updated by Charlotte Morgan, March 2019 Originally written by Charlotte Morgan, March 2016
Check out our expert guide to the best places to eat and drink in Faversham, Kent’s oldest market town - also home to Britain’s oldest brewery, Shepherd Neame. Faversham was a foodie secret which only locals and a few discerning visitors knew about. Try everything from locally sourced meats to Winterdale Shaw cheese and, fresh fish straight off the boats from Whitstable and Hythe
Our expert guide to the best restaurants, cafes and bars in Faversham, Kent’s oldest market town. Until recently Faversham, home to Britain’s oldest brewery, Shepherd Neame - was a foodie secret which only locals and a few discerning visitors knew about. But now word is out about its burgeoning crop of restaurants, microbreweries and street markets, as well as its annual hop and food festivals, both in September. Read’s restaurant with rooms This elegant Georgian manor-with-rooms on the edge of town has been offering high-end dining for exactly four decades and shows no signs of running out of steam. Much of the fruit and vegetables used by chef-owner David Pitchford and his young team are from the estate’s own walled garden, or from nearby Brogdale - home of the national fruit collection - while fish comes fresh off the boats at Whitstable and Hythe. Firm menu fixtures include the mature Montgomery Cheddar cheese soufflé with smoked haddock in a cream sauce and, for pud, its famous raspberry soufflé. The Yard Café There’s an arty vibe at this boho café, tucked down a cobbled alley off the town’s Preston Street. The menu revolves around salads and hot and cold sandwiches made from seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, plus there’s freshly roasted coffee from Canterbury’s Micro Roastery. Try the Yard chicken ‘burger’: pan-fried free-range chicken breast and prosciutto in a warm bread roll. The café displays work by local artists, and regularly hosts music bands, poetry nights and yoga sessions. It’s open daytime only, except on Thursdays when it hosts a Thirsty Thursday Supper Club. Macknade Fine Foods The Macknade family (branches of which hail from Italy) have been farming and selling food in Faversham for 170 years, and their magnificent food hall has long had a reputation as the best in Kent. It’s an excellent place to stock up on Kentish produce, from local meats to Winterdale Shaw cheese, strawberries from nearby Vinson Farm, and Coxy’s liqueurs. The coffee in its café-restaurant is from Florence’s Caffe Manaresi, reflecting the family’ Italian roots, and its famous cheese and meat platters combine Kentish and Italian ingredients too. The food hall is also home to the Wild Bread bakery and Boutilliers brewery. Shepherd Neame brewery As you hit Faversham your nostrils are hit by the unmistakable smell of malted barley (think Ovaltine) that’s used here, along with Kentish hops, to make beer. Shepherd Neame brewery prides itself on being the oldest in Britain, and even if you are not a beer aficionado, a tour of its ancient buildings is a must. Sample malted barley at various stages of toasting and see the vast mash tuns in which the grain is mashed. The moment everyone waits for, of course, is the tutored tasting at the end – you try six ales, including Spitfire, first brewed in 1990 to commemorate the Battle of Britain. Furlongs Ale House This micropub is an antidote to your traditional town boozer: its tables and pews were hand carved by one of its regulars, there’s no piped music, and local art adorns the walls. Even the bar snacks, which usually include pickled duck eggs or pork scratchings, are homemade. Most importantly, Furlongs offers drinkers the chance to try ales produced by local micro-breweries, such as Kent Brewery and Dark Star. There are normally around five ales on offer, all hand-drawn from casks, and Kentish ciders, wines and apple juices get a look-in too. Also try: the Gallery Café at Creek Creative Studios; Vino wine bar and The Three Mariners at Oare. For general tourist information see visitfaversham.com and visitkent.co.uk Words | Clare Hargreaves
The Oxford Blue, Old Windsor: restaurant review
We review newly renovated pub The Oxford Blue in Old Windsor, and discover attention to detail rarely seen outside of the capital’s fine-dining restaurants
It’s been two years in the making but the last day of 2016 marked the long-anticipated opening of chef patron Steven Ellis’s first solo venture, Old Windsor’s The Oxford Blue. Let’s make things clear from the off, it’s worth the wait. As the former sous chef of three-Michelin-starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, and with Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen and Andrew Pern’s Michelin-starred Star Inn in North Yorkshire on his CV, it’s little wonder that Steven’s menu here is as elegant as it is. Described as one “based on tradition and comfort, presented with a modern twist”, there are familiar pub favourites – a ploughman’s, soup and homemade bread, liver and onions, beef sirloin – but nothing is quite as it seems. (It’s better.) We spot the ploughman’s being served across the dining room – ham is theatrically carved from a trolley and served alongside wedges of Kirkland mature Lancashire – while little black pudding bonbons to get us started are served with military precision from trays by the young but well-versed team. Josh, our waiter, is only 18 and yet advises us on the details of any dish we quiz him on (we weren’t testing, honest), and recommends wine, and later cheese, with authority and charm. This is, in no small part, down to general manager Daniel Crump and restaurant manager Margriet Vandezande-Crump (who created the drinks list). The husband and wife team, and best friends and former colleagues of Steven, have themselves worked for some of the country’s best – Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Petrus and Adam Byatt’s Trinity. A starter of ‘warm potato salad’ reveals Steven’s attention to detail, playful attitude towards traditional flavour pairings, and a clear obsession with good ingredients. A variety of potatoes are served in a multitude of ways – purple truffle potatoes are boiled and sliced, one more (nutty in flavour) is fried into a crisp, while another's skin is made into some sort of sublime vegetarian crackling and stuffed with yet more whipped potato with chives and sour cream. Bitter leaves and spring onions and a creamy, tangy Lancashire cheese sauce all point to the scale of ambition here – it’s no average pub. Another starter, braised suckling pig’s trotter, was as fine as any plate you’ll find in London’s high-end dining rooms. Wafer-thin slices of green- and red-skinned apples are plated with precision, like fish scales, and topped with the sticky roll of stuffed trotter – tender, salty, immeasurably delicious. Delicate dots of sauce gribiche, a neatly trimmed fried quail’s egg, glistening like a tiny sunshine, another piece of fried black pudding and a crab apple half poached in cider would have been impressive enough; but on the side, too, a bespoke wooden wedge held crisp pinwheels of pork crackling, like crispy little pig tails. If Steven’s aim is to get his guests squealing with delight, he’s definitely on the right track here. A specials menu is inspired by the pick of the nearby Crown Estate. Head round the back of the pub and you’ll spot Steven’s own game shed (a nod to the pub’s former life as two gamekeeper’s cottages in the 1800s), where birds from the estate are hung to mature, alongside a herb garden and another 16 extra covers. (There are 60 inside.) A plate of woodcock catches my eye. It’s not for the squeamish – here it’s presented head split down the middle, brain and all – but delicate butchery and an even lighter hand at the pass made for some of the most tender game we’ve tried, its flavour deeply offally and rich. The tiny bird with a big beak pulled serious punches. A slice of paté en croute made swift work of the innards, and perfectly balanced the sweet slice of buttery, naughtily wobbly, foie gras, and pretty bitter rainbow chard pieces. Incredibly elegant. Pie and mash, too, caused gasps as it arrived at the table, with Josh feeding its rich gravy into a chimney hole at the pie’s centre. Inside the crisp raised pastry (so rare in the modern gastropub world – a lone pie lid does not a pie make), lay shredded confit chicken (now drenched in gravy). Its crispy skin had been made into majestic shards and studded into the smoothest pomme purée, while a poached chicken sausage and sweet leek medallions finished the dish. Familiar flavours but delivered in a thoroughly contemporary, refined way. That’s what a gastropub should be all about. We didn’t need sides, but the call of beef-fat chips and buttered cabbage was too loud for us to ignore. There was no mini fryer, or Jenga-like stack, just a simple pot of cracking fried potatoes – crisp, golden, fluffy and flavourful – and the cabbage was as good as any my grandad pulls out of the ground (and trust me, they’re good). The wine list is well annotated and provides an interesting selection taken from the wine attic upstairs, which doubles up as a private dining room. Bolney Bubbly from West Sussex was a great sparkler to start, while a carafe of Bulgarian pinot noir made for a happy pairing with our two birds. Cheese is charged by the slice, rather than the board (great idea), and a selection of modern British artisanal greats are presented and explained with confidence again by our lovely Josh. We go for Stichelton (think Stilton but creamier and all-round more delicious), Beenleigh Blue (a crumbly Devon Ewe’s milk), and a bloomy brie-de-meaux-like Baron Bigod from Norfolk, which are then joined by all the trimmings: homemade biscuits, fruit cheese, chutney, fresh fruit, nuts and more. Steven’s partner, Ami, is in charge of desserts and clementine parfait is both palate-cleansing and lighthearted. A sphere of creamy, sweet and sharp parfait is coated to look like its original fruit, and joined on the plate by flaky compressed discs of puff pastry, confit orange, ginger and fresh fruit segments. A wonderful assortment of textures and flavours – just as at the start of our meal. Earl grey soufflé (made using Cornish Tregothnan tea), although technically perfect, was a touch too delicate in aroma and flavour to make the right impact with its smooth biscuit ice cream. The only dud note of the night. It didn’t end there, though. After dinner, slabs of The Oxford Blue’s own salted mint chocolate are brought out, along with a hammer to break into them, as we sink ever lower into our chairs, warmed by the heat of the roaring open fire at the heart of the pub. The Oxford Blue is presented as a pub (flagstone floors, tartan upholstery, ales on tap) but it really is a restaurant, and a seriously sophisticated one at that. Just when we thought the gastropub was dead… Written by Laura Rowe, February 2017 The Oxford Blue, 10 Crimp Hill, Old Windsor, Berkshire SL4 2QY