20 food experiences around the world that every food lover should try
From summer crayfish banquets in Malmö to Quebec's snow-taffy celebrations, check out Gurdeep Loyal's favourite foodie experiences from across the globe
Looking to add memorable foodie experiences to your bucket list? We asked food and drink trends specialist Gurdeep Loyal for 20 recommendations from around the world. For more from Gurd, check out his favourite homeware brands and products to discover, Gurdeep Loyal's culinary hotspots and Gurdeep Loyal's trend-led recipes. Gurdeep's favourite foodie experiences around the world 1. London, UK – Eat pie and mash in an iconic East End pie house Pie, mash and liquor (parsley sauce) is a culinary icon, upheld today by a handful of East End family eateries. G Kelly on Roman Road Market (in the Mile End neighbourhood) has been serving pies, mash, liquor and jellied eels since 1939. Its classic beef mince pie has a perfectly burnished pastry crust and is served with a puddle of flavourful green liquor and creamy mash. S&R Kelly & Sons in Bethnal Green is another East End institution – it’s been making traditional handmade mince meat pies since 1915. 2. Malmö, Sweden – Welcome August like a Scandi at a crayfish party August in Sweden is all about kräftskiva: outdoor parties centred around music, drinking and vats of freshly caught crayfish boiled in briny liquid (sometimes with a splash of ale), served cold with a crown of fresh dill. Malmö on the southwestern coast of Sweden is one of the best places to experience one. The Malmö Festival takes over Stortorget Square every August with long banquet tables (they stretch for more than 1km) piled high with boiled crayfish. 3. Mumbai, India – Do a sunset chaat street-snack crawl at Juhu Chowpatty Beach Juhu Chowpatty Beach in Mumbai is famous for its long sandy beach, sunset views and some of the best – and most colourful – street food stands in all of India. Visit Shree Ram Pav Bhaji for its paneer pav bhaji served with a buttery roll, masala pilou and Indo-Chinese hakka noodles. Sharma Chaat Bhandar is known for crunchy pani puri and papdi chaat, while Juhu Sealand specialises in technicolour falooda milkshakes and creamy pistachio-cashew kulfis. 4. Primorska, Slovenia – Visit a biodynamic orange winery Slovenia’s orange wines (made from white grapes where the skin and seeds are left in the macerations to impart an orange tint and tannins) are some of the best in the world. They’re known for their bold and complex flavours, with notes of floral herbs and rich honey. The north-western Primorska region, which stretches along the Adriatic Sea, is where Slovenia’s most prominent orange wineries can be found. Guerilla, a biodynamic winery in the Vipava Valley, is famous for its deep golden-coloured wines with notes of chamomile; and Movia wine estate in the village of Ceglo makes wines with intense bouquets of citrus, peaches, liquorice, vanilla and nutmeg. 5. Penang, Malaysia – Take in the nighttime delights of Kimberly Street Night Market One of the most vibrant places to eat after dark in Penang is Kimberley Street Night Market in George Town’s Chinatown. Here you can try everything from laksa and oyster omelettes to char kway teow fried noodles and sweet si koh soup. Kimberley Street Duck Kway Chap is known for its rich braised duck flat-rice noodle soup. Tina’s Kitchen is a family-run spot that sells five-spiced Chinese sausage rolls, nasi ulum salted fish rice, and purple yam with tapioca jelly. And Tua Pui Curry Mee serves thick, aromatic curry soups with chicken, squid or cuttlefish. 6. Quebec, Canada – Head to a sugar shack for maple syrup snow-taffy celebrations Maple syrup taffy celebrations mark the Canadian culinary calendar every March and April. The highlight is when freshly tapped maple syrup is boiled, drizzled over clean white snow, then wound and twisted onto popsicle sticks into a sticky, chewy taffy. The area surrounding Montreal is famous for its cabanes à sucre (sugar shacks), which are traditional Quebec establishments where the new season’s maple syrup is celebrated in all its culinary guises. Érablière du Cap has been celebrating maple syrup since 1983 and offers a unique sugar shack menu and maple snow taffy experience. The Le Relais des Pins sugar shack experience includes visits to the maple sugar refinery and sleigh rides in the snow. 7. Houston and Louisiana, USA – Put on a bib and dive into a Viet-Cajun seafood boil Vietnamese immigrants have been thriving in the USA since the 1970s, particularly in Houston and Louisiana, which has resulted in a unique Viet-Cajun fusion cuisine. The most famous dish to come from this is Viet-Cajun seafood boil (traditional Cajun boil meets Southeast Asian aromatics). Crawfish & Noodles in Houston from James Beard Award-nominated chef Trong Nguyen specialises in Viet-Cajun crayfish, flavoured with a special spice blend (featuring lemongrass, ginger, garlic and cayenne) and served with Asian honey garlic wings on the side. Big EZ in Louisiana serves its Viet-Cajun boil Saigon-style: with kumquat, lemongrass and Cajun spices. 8. San Sebastián, Spain – Hop from bar to bar for pintxos and txakoli Basque-style tapas (pintxos) are typically served on long cocktail skewers or on top of toasted bread. San Sebastián, with is long sandy beach and characterful cobbled old town, is famous for its numerous pintxos bars, where hopping from one place to another is very much the done thing. Try the ‘igueldo’ at Antonio Bar: roasted tomato, tuna belly, Basque green peppers and salted anchovy on bread. Then head to Bar Txepetxa for fried calamari, gambas, vinegared anchovies and gilda, eaten alongside the region’s famous sparkling dry white wine, txakoli. Finish at La Espiga for thinly sliced jamón, oozy Spanish tortilla and stuffed piquillo peppers. Check out our full guide to the best restaurants in San Sebastian for more inspiration. 9. Oaxaca City, Mexico – Try freshly steamed street-side tamales Mexico’s Oaxaca City is all about tamales: steamed masa corn parcels filled with richly flavoured fillings, wrapped in banana leaves or corn husks, then freshly steamed. The rich, intensely savoury mole tamales at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas are some of the best in the city. Or head to Tamales de Tia Tila just outside of the city for black mole and salsa verde filled tamales, along with sweet tamales with cinnamon and tropical fruits. See our full guide to Oaxaca for more, including where to stay. We've also got a recipe for Mexican chicken mole rojo, to recreate at home. 10. Lagos, Nigeria – Enjoy barbecued suya skewers with yaji spice Nigeria’s famous suya skewers are strips of beef or goat, marinated in a yaji spice blend of chilli, ginger, garlic, peanuts and sometimes fermented locust beans and crushed bouillon. These are barbecued on skewers and served with more yaji spice sprinkled on top. The roads of Lagos are awash with suya carts and stalls. Glover Court Suya is one of the most loved spots, serving up beef and mixed grill skewers using its own unique spice blend. Locals favour Belton Suya Spot and Akerele Super Suya for their flavourful suya skewers. Discover more about Nigerian cuisine. 10. Nice, France – Take a fire-baked socca and pissaladière to the beach The regional cooking in Nice combines seasonal Provençal ingredients with Italian influences, as is best illustrated by socca and pissaladière. Socca (chickpea flour pancakes) are cooked in large iron pans over fire until scorched, then hand-cut into craggy pieces before being piled onto paper plates and served with sachets of salt and pepper. Pissaladière is a savoury Niçois pizza-tart with a thick layer of caramelised onions, anchovies and olives on top. Chez Rene Socca situated on a bustling corner of old town has queues for their piping hot socca and generously topped pissaladière at all hours. Chez Teresa, which also pops up in the old town market, is known for its crispy and moreish socca, perfect for taking to the beach with a cold bottle of French beer. Check out our round up of the best French food trips for more France travel inspiration. 11. Chicago, USA – Indulge in Chicago’s deep-dish and ultra-thin tavern-style pizzas Although Chicago deep-dish has attracted global fame, there are in fact two pizza styles that reign supreme in the windy city: buttery crusted cast-iron deep-dish, and ultra-thin crispy square-cut tavern style. For deep-dish, head to cult Chicago institution Piquods in Lincoln Park for ‘caramelised edge’ cheese-crusts, oozy layered inverted fillings and high-quality ingredients. For square-cut tavern style, visit Italian-owned Pat's Pizzeria, where the ‘cracker crust’ pizzas have been a hit with locals since 1950. 12. Singapore – Dive into some saucy Singaporean chilli crab Singaporean chilli crab is traditionally made with mud crabs that are cooked in an intensely flavoured sauce, rich with chilli, garlic, ginger, shallots, tomato paste and sometimes lemongrass, fermented soybean paste, sesame oil, or Shaoxing wine. Roland Restaurant is often cited as the birthplace of the dish and its recipe (invented by Madam Cher Yam Tian) has an intense chilli heat and deep flavour. The Michelin-recognised Keng Eng Kee Seafood at Alexandra Village is equally renowned for its own take on chilli crab, with a slick sweet and sour style sauce that’s thickened with egg. Try making it at home with our Singapore chilli crab recipe. 13. Tokyo, Japan – Try whisky highballs and drinking snacks in the alleyways of Golden Gai Golden Gai is a district of Kabukicho in Shinjuku where there are more than 250 tiny drinking dens across a handful of streets. Dongara-Gassyan specialises in Osaka-style fried meat and vegetable skewers, and Japanese karage-fried chicken with a tare glaze. Albatros bar with its kitsch chandeliers and chintzy interiors is famous for cocktails infused with ingredients such as spicy pepper and prickly pear. And Totobar is known for its sake, served up with small plates of grilled fish and sashimi. 14. Brussels, Belgium – Feast on shrimp bechamel croquettes and Belgian craft beer Belgium’s famous garnaalkroketten are deep-fried bechamel croquettes filled with flavoursome grey shrimp – expect a crisp, bread coating and creamy, velvety middle. Most traditional restaurants in Brussels have them on the menu, but the best place to try them is at Noordzee Mer Du Nord situated in a picturesque square in the historic old town, overlooking the gothic Église Sainte-Catherine. They’re freshly fried to order and are served with a rich mayonnaise and thick wedges of lemon – perfect for eating on outdoor tables that dot the square, with a craft Belgian beer to hand. Mare in the hip Wolf Food Hall also serves classic shrimp and old brugge cheese croquettes with homemade tartar. 15. St John’s, Antigua – Try the national dish of pepperpot and fungee Pepperpot is a one-pot stew that’s cooked long and slow with everything from beef to salted pork, spinach, yams, scotch bonnet peppers, thyme and all-spice. It’s served with fungee – a cornmeal and okra-based bread ball. Suga Beez is a road-side eatery with a daily changing menu of local specialities that serves up some of the most flavoursome pepperpot in St John’s. And Joe Mikes restaurant, which is attached to a casino, is a buffet-canteen style eatery that serves pillowy soft and delicate fungee alongside long-cooked pepperpot in a rich, meaty broth. 16. Crete, Greece – Eat traditional antikristo at a Cretan tavern Antikristo, which means ‘over fire’, is a traditional Cretan method of roasting salted lamb or goat on large skewers for several hours over open flames, then letting the meat cook in its own juices to give it a deep, intensely smoky flavour. Taverna Arhaia Lappa is an ancient tavern in the village of Rethymno that’s famous for its antikristo lamb. In Heraklion, Petousis is known for its traditional Greek barbecued lamb, cooked with the skewers in a circular formation for up to six hours until tender and deliciously charred. 17. Hong Kong – Dine at an old-school dim sum trolley-cart institution These unique establishments that serve freshly steamed dim sum on old-school trolley carts are treasured in Hong Kong. Lin Heung Lau Tea Room is one of the oldest, known for its steamed barbecued buns and har gau, pan-fried radish cake and deep-fried sesame balls. Luk On Kui is another traditional push-cart dim sum eatery that harks back to the 1970s with its décor and old world charms. Maxims Palace is one of Hong Kong’s most adored dim sum cart institutions, complete with white table clothes, crystal chandeliers and an almost endless selection of dim sum to select from trolleys that circle through the restaurant every lunchtime. 18. Turin, Italy – Try gianduja hazelnut chocolates in all their guises Gianduja – a rich chocolate and hazelnut confection – is the culinary symbol of Turin and Piedmont in northern Italy, showcasing the regions intensely flavoured buttery hazelnuts. It’s often turned into chocolate bars, sold as a spreadable paste, or even made into gianduiotto chocolate nuggets. Guido Gobino is a 50-year-old Turin institution with a historic headquarters on Cagliari Street. Its gianduja combines 45% tonda gentile trilobata hazelnuts, Italian sugar and vanilla bean. Contemporary chocolatier Guido Castagna sells unique tear-drop shaped gianduiotto, made with chuao cocoa from Venezuela. 20. Hanoi, Vietnam – Tackle a deep-filled bánh mì at a street-side stall in the city The bustling motorbike-flooded streets of Hanoi are the best places in the country for Vietnamese bánh mì sandwiches (French-style baguettes filled with the likes of lemongrass-marinated barbecued meats, pickled carrots and radishes, whole red chillies and fresh coriander). Bánh Mì Bà Dần in Hanoi’s old quarter is known for its crispy-soft breads and generous fillings, while Banh Mi Lan Ong offers Vietnamese sausage and fried egg fillings, plus signature sauces and duck pâté. Check out our rainbow banh mí recipe to make your own at home. 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Eat your way around this diverse city by way of Cambodian noodle bars, bustling seafood counters, street-side caviar kiosks and, of course, Philly cheesesteaks and hoagie sandwiches
Philadelphia – the city of brotherly love – is a place where historic buildings like Independence Hall (where the US constitution was signed in 1787), extraordinary art galleries like the Barnes Foundation, and icons of American culture like the Liberty Bell can be found. It is also without doubt one of the most exciting food cities in America right now. Discover everything from sky-high cocktail bars and vegan fine-dining restaurants to lively oyster counters, perfect hand-crafted cannoli and one of the best sandwiches (or hoagies) you will ever eat, plus some of the most innovative contemporary Southeast-Asian, Central-American and African-American cooking in the country. Philly is a city that lives up to its cordial reputation in every way, with a welcoming – and progressive – food scene that’s surprising at every turn. From its energetic downtown Centre City area to the stylishly hip Fishtown – and from bohemian East Passyunk Avenue to the cultural melting pot that is West Philly – every neighbourhood has its own unique gastronomic energy, contrasting and complimenting the others with full volume flavour. What’s more, Philadelphia is the same distance from London as New York, is a fraction of the cost when it comes to great hotels, and is also refreshingly walkable. Just be sure to take the advice of locals: come hungry, get ready to be amazed, and be sure to wear stretchy pants! Jump to: Best restaurants in Philadelphia Best restaurants for Philly cheesesteaks in Philadelphia Best restaurant hubs and markets in Philadelphia Best bakeries in Philadelphia Best cocktail bars in Philadelphia Best restaurants in Philadelphia Suraya This bustling restaurant – right in the heart of the happening Fishtown neighbourhood – serves up classic and contemporary Levant-inspired dishes. It’s a large, welcoming space with ornate painted tiled floors and a buzzy garden terrace in the back. From the meze menu, the exceptional hummus is served with your choice of toppings like crispy za’atar cauliflower or baharat short rib. There is a host of freshly baked man’oushe Lebanese flatbreads and sandwiches with sumac spiced fries. And the ‘kawarma’ slow-roasted lamb is extraordinary – served with dill yogurt, cucumber and pomegranates. surayaphilly.com Friday Saturday Sunday This James Beard Award-winning restaurant – in beautiful Rittenhouse Square – is the creation of Philly-born African-American chef Chad Williams, with his wife Hanna Williams. It’s a stunning space with an open dark wooden bar counter, globe-like hanging lamps and monochrome harlequin diamonds on the floor. The exquisite tasting menu is filled with storytelling, in dishes like Castle Valley Mill grits with Grenada peppers and chestnuts; honeynut squash with labneh and walnut; and black teacake – an artful combination of house-made fromage blanc, preserved rose petals, Meyer lemon gelée and milk skin. fridaysaturdaysunday.com Vernick Fish Located in Philadelphia’s cosmopolitan Logan Square, this upmarket ingredient-led seafood and oyster restaurant is a well-loved city institution. Seasonality, local sourcing and sustainability are central to its ethos, with an innovative menu that’s filled with global flavours. The open room is chicly designed with an open kitchen teeming with lively activity that’s thrilling to see. Don’t miss the amberjack crudo with zingy passion fruit, crispy rice and lime; the olive oil poached halibut with maitake mushroom, Jerusalem artichoke and vermouth cream; and the classic shrimp cocktail with a kick of horseradish. Also be sure to check out the streetside caviar kiosk from Biederman’s that’s right outside. vernickfish.com Mawn This Cambodian noodle bar in the Italian Market has been the talk of Philly since it opened – serving dishes from across Southeast Asia. It’s a lively intimate space from Cambodian-American chef Phila Lorn and his wife Rachel, with exposed brick walls and a soundtrack of Cambodian rock on the speakers. Kick off with the mahope samut – seared scallops with red curry moke, vinegar peppers, lime leaves and crushed peanuts. Try the classic Mawn noodle soup, a chicken stock with poached breast and thigh, schmaltz and crispy garlic; then finish with a fragrant jasmine rice pudding. mawnphilly.com Picnic One of the most spectacular dining rooms in all of Philadelphia, Picnic – in East Kensington – is housed in a former brewery and specialises in wood-fired rotisserie, oysters and unique wines. The organic rotisserie chicken is served with a choice of flavourful sauces like anchovy salsa verde, pickled pepper aïoli and roasted garlic chicken jus. Vegetarian plates include the delicious grilled cabbage with jalapeño dressing, brown butter and gouda. And for dessert try the famous chocolate cake with whipped cream, caramel and candied pecans. picnicphilly.com Dizengoff No trip to Philadelphia is complete without sampling the food of Philly chef Mike Solomonov (@mikesolomonov) at his iconic restaurants like Zahav and Laser Wolf. Dizengoff is his more casual place in the heart of Centre City – a brightly coloured restaurant specialising in ultra-creamy loaded hummus, stuffed homemade pittas and platters. Try the hummus pitryot with mushrooms, amber spice and dill; the shawarma-spiced lamb with sumac and tahini; and the remarkably tasty citrus olive oil cake with sachlav whipped cream and blood orange. It's also known for cocktails enlivened with za’atar, Turkish coffee and chai. dizengoffphilly.com Vedge Often touted as one of the best vegan restaurants in America, Vedge is a plant-based modern dining restaurant from chefs Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby. The ‘medium plates’ menu changes with the seasons, following what’s best in the markets and farms they source from. The inventive smoked portobello mushroom carpaccio has a caper dressing, nigella seeds and fennel remoulade; ‘campfire carrots’ are served with BBQ black lentils, smoked carrot mustard and slaw; and salt roasted chioggia beets are contrasted with lemon tahini, cucumber zhoug and mint. This celebration of vegetables extends to the cocktail list which has creations like their Sea Legs – mezcal with sugar snap pea; and Black Lodge – a mix of reposado tequila, genepi liqueur and beet shrub. vedgerestaurant.com Best restaurants for Philly cheesesteaks in Philadelphia Pat’s King of Steaks The invention of Philly cheesesteak is most often credited to Pat Olivieri, an Italian hot-dog stand owner who in 1930 started to serve up chopped steak with grilled onions and cheese – which quickly exploded into the culinary icon it is today. Their legendary corner restaurant on East Passyunk Avenue always has a queue – so be sure to decide what you want before you get to the front! Your first decision is ‘wit or wit-out’ onions. Then you have to pick a cheese: provolone, American, cooper sharp or bright yellow cheez wiz. Then if you want any additions like mushrooms or peppers, or cheese fries if you want it even cheesier. Geno’s Steaks is their rival right across the street – which opened in 1966 – and who claim to have the ‘best’ cheesesteak in town. Take a bite of both, and decide for yourself! patskingofsteaks.com Jim’s South Street This well-loved cheese steak institution can be found on a striking corner of South Street – the eclectic alternative Philly neighbourhood close to the Delaware river. Established in 1976, its iconic art-deco façade is contrasted by the inside seating area which is a riot of colourful tiled mosaics on every surface from renowned Philadelphia-based artist Isaiah Zagar. As well as classic cheesesteaks, it also offers the option of cooked mushrooms and bell peppers. You can also sprinkle over a sachet of its ‘South Street Heat’ spice dust from Saint Lucifer – with garlic, paprika and habanero pepper. jimssouthstreet.com Angelo's Pizzeria Yes, you did read that correctly. This South Philly pizzeria – on the edges of the Italian Market – has become social media famous for serving up one of the best Philly cheesesteaks in the city. Connoisseurs point out that it’s a combination of quality rib-eye steak, a very specific seasoning, good bread and the cheese-to-steak ratio that makes it so good. Thanks to its viral fame, the queue almost always goes down the street, but you can order by phone and collect if you want to jump the line. Their eponymous pizza and loaded hoagie sandwiches are also equally delicious! angelospizzeriasouthphiladelphia.com Uncle Gus Steaks The action-packed Philly cheesesteak grills at Uncle Gus are one of the must-visit counters in Reading Terminal Market. Everything here is done classically, with very generous portions and excellent bread from Angelo's Pizzeria. Steak is ‘medium chop’ – so it still has some bite and is not too fine like at other cheesesteak establishments. You can ask for the addition of mushrooms, long hot or cherry peppers. instagram.com/unclegussteaks/ Best restaurant hubs and food markets in Philadelphia Reading Terminal Market There are more than 80 vendors at Reading Terminal Market – one of America’s largest public markets that has been housed in its current National Historic Landmark building since 1893. The choice of foods to try is almost overwhelming, so be sure to come hungry and eager to try a little something from as many as possible. Check out seafood specialities at Pearl’s Oyster Bar; iconic roast pork and broccoli rabe sandwiches at DiNics; Georgian cheeseboats at Saami Somi; and American soul food at Ma Lessie’s Chicken & Waffles. For a sweet treat, the hand-dipped chocolates at Mueller Chocolate Co are divine, the cookies at Famous 4th Street Cookie Company a Philly classic, and the exquisite dessert counters of Termini Brothers Bakery something not to miss! readingterminalmarket.org Frankford Avenue in Fishtown Fishtown is one of the hippest and most exciting food neighbourhoods in America right now – buzzing with artisanal bakeries (Fiore), trendy BBQ joints (Zig Zag BBQ), award-winning restaurants (Kalaya), champions of global street food (Amy’s Pastelillos), ethically minded grocers (Riverwards Produce), craft breweries (Philadelphia Brewing Company) and urban wineries (Mural City Cellars). The length of Frankford Avenue is its main thoroughfare – from which many side streets are their own mini pockets of culinary cool. Celebrity chef Jen Caroll (@chefjencarroll) offers up culinary food tour adventures of the area, taking you to the latest openings and giving unrivalled access to the chefs and culinary creatives that are making the area thrive. Southeast Asian Market in FDR Park One of the most brilliantly unique aspects of Philadelphia’s culinary scene is the weekly Southeast Asian Market in Franklin D. Roosevelt Park (FDR) – an outdoor festival of delicious food and drink that welcomes everyone into its vibrant, community-minded space. There are more than 70 diasporic vendors every week, the majority specialising in Cambodian, Vietnamese and Laotian cuisines with a handful of Thai and Indonesian vendors also. Try Southeast Asian specialities like Cambodian sour pork sausage from a smoking grill, crispy pork rice from Laos, made-to-order Thai papaya salads and Vietnamese BBQ skewers. There are also incredible sweets to try like bamboo cooked coconut rice, and pandan-coconut milk noodles with water chestnuts. They also have weekly guest pop-up stalls - follow their Instagram page @seamarket_fdrpark for all the details. fdrseamarket.com 9th Street Italian Market & East Passyunk Avenue Philadelphia’s Italian community has a long history – and remains one of the most thriving diasporas in the city. The Italian market on 9th Street is their culinary heartland, a buzzing parade of speciality delis (Di Bruno Bros), pasta restaurants (Ralph's), butchers (Cappucio’s Meats), and Italian bakeries (Sarcone's). The south end of the market is also home to brilliant traders from countries like Mexico and Honduras including the unmissable South Philly Barbacoa from chef Cristina Martinez. Eventually this turns into East Passyunk Avenue – with Pat’s and Geno's Steakhouses marking the intersection. East Passyunk Avenue itself is lined with trendy independent natural wine bars (Supérette), small-batch ice cream shops (Milk Jawn) and casual all-day restaurants (Barcelona). Be sure to check out the delicious Vietnamese restaurant Gabriella's right at the very end. italianmarketphilly.org Best bakeries in Philadelphia The Bakeshop on 20th This bijoux bakery – just a block away from picturesque Rittenhouse Square – serves some of the most delicious sweet treats in the city. It's especially known for glazed morning and sticky buns, freshly baked soft-chewy cookies and exceptional homemade flaky pastry pop tarts filled with flavours like tart cherry. Plus, deep-filled sandwiches, fresh baked scones and blueberry or Nutella-filled muffins. bakeshopon20th.com K’Far Cafe This bakery – whose name means 'village' in Hebrew – is another of Philly legend Mike Solomonov’s establishments. It’s a bright, buzzy space that specialises in pastries like chocolate rugelach, marzipan challah danishes and babka. The Jerusalem bagels come with inventive fillings like the ‘labneh trio’ with za’atar, sumac, and honey pistachio-flecked curds. Their coffee comes from Ox Coffee and they also have a lovely outside seating area if it’s sunny. kfarcafe.com Dream World Bakes Nestled on a quiet, unassuming corner of trendy Fishtown is Dream World Bakes from the exceptionally talented Ashley Huston. Her inventive cakes include creations like Baby Spice with cardamom cake, passionfruit curd and mango-chai mousse; Cherry Cherry with brown butter cake, black and sour cherry pie filling and dark chocolate sea salt mousse; and Strawberry-Matcha with condensed milk buttercream. Save space for her exceptional thin-crunchy chocolate-chip and walnut cookies that are shatteringly crispy on the outside and pleasingly chewy in the middle. dreamworldbakes.com Shane Confectionery Located in the heart of historic Old Philly, the enchanting Shane Confectionery is America’s oldest confectionery shop. It’s a beautiful and charming place to visit, with baby blue counters, vintage tills and an antique hot-chocolate bar in the back. Today it specialises in ethically made chocolates – with playful bars like their Harmoni-yum cherry pistachio-praline bar; house-dipped pretzels; homemade peanut butter cups and craft bon bons with flavours like yuzu cream, honey-sesame and wild rose. Don’t miss their sister ice cream and soda parlor Franklin Fountain two doors down, that’s just as historic, captivating and unique. shanecandies.com Best cocktail bars in Philadelphia Lovers Bar at Friday Saturday Sunday The cocktail list at the Lovers Bar in restaurant Friday Saturday Sunday by Chad Williams is so inventive it’s been James Beard nominated. It’s a classy, vibey space for discerning drinkers and those seeking adventurous, flavour-forward drinks. They’re famous for cocktails like the Assassin’s Handbook with cognac, Jamaican rum, Averna, mulled wine shrub and habanero; Sob Story with Torino vermouth, coconut rum and arrack; and the room temperature-served Ekling with bourbon, pear eu di vie and allspice. instagram.com/theloversbar/ a.bar This intimate, cosy cocktail bar – right on Rittenhouse Square – is the perfect place to get your evening started. They serve up an innovative drinks list and French-inspired food from their sister restaurant a.kitchen right next door. Along side creative inventions like their Train to Nowhere – a mix of Oka Kura gin, Japanese plum, miso-infused honey, Cocchi Americano and lemon cordial – they also serve up a menu of forgotten classics and old time favourites. Try the adonis – the manhattan’s older and easier-to-drink cousin; their light-floral take on an aviation; and their take on an old fashioned with absinthe and cherry bitters. abarphl.com Sky High The view from Sky High bar at the top of the Four Seasons Hotel in Logan Square is spectacular – taking in the skyline of the city with thrilling style. The space itself is a bright spacious parlour with glass windows on every side, mirrored arches, comfortable sofas and gigantic floral displays. Try delicious cocktails like their Lychee Raspberry Bellini with De Perrier crémant; the Agace Negroni with Banhez Mezcal, Mi Campo tequila and Carpano Antica; or the Cucumber Collins with Bluecoat Gin, Onó sotol, and Ancho Reyes Verde poblano liqueur. The view is completely different at every hour – being particularly special just as the sun comes down. skyhighphiladelphia.com Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co This atmospheric speakeasy – hidden behind a secret unmarked door in the lobby of The Franklin on Rittenhouse Hotel – is a great place to come for a night cap. It has a dark, sultry vibe with cosy nooks, a large open bar and vintage-feeling brown leather chairs. The cocktail list is divided into ‘light & refreshing’, ‘boozy & direct’, ‘long & carbonated’, or the most unusual but equally delicious ‘odd & fun’. Try the Self Made Monster – with Ford’s Gin, persimmon, almond, Cocchi Americano and orange bitters. thefranklinbar.com
4 Californian wine regions you need to visit
Plan the ultimate US wine tour with our expert guide to California's wine regions, from Napa Valley to lesser known areas
Are you a fan of Californian wine? A trip to the Californian wine regions could be the perfect holiday for you, and a chance to learn much more about how the wine is produced. Tour vineyards, have wine tastings in the sun and get to know local producers and small towns across this incredible wine-producing area. From the famous Napa Valley to lesser known Yolo County and laidback Mendocino, these are the best Californian wine regions to visit. For more like this, check out our best UK vineyard breaks or the best European vineyards to visit. Jump to: Sonoma County Mendocino Napa Valley Yolo County Sonoma County The Sonoma region has a large variety of microclimates and soil types, so is able to produce a wider range of grapes and wine styles. Pinot noirs and chardonnays, particularly from the cool Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast regions, are capable of great elegance and complexity, while warmer inland areas such as the Alexander Valley are known for their robust wines made from cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel (also known as primitivo) that tend to be heavily oaked and high in alcohol. Sonoma is a wonderful place to visit, with its rolling countryside, pretty towns, ancient redwood forests and wild Pacific coastline, as well as hundreds of vineyards and wineries which are very welcoming to tourists. Where to stay in Sonoma County Montage Healdsburg Billing itself as a resort rather than a hotel, Montage Healdsburg is the ultimate in discreet luxury, set among its own immaculate vineyards in the heart of Sonoma’s wine country. The gorgeous rooms all have their own balconies with fabulous views and are very hard to leave, but don’t miss out on dining on the terrace at the Hazel Hill restaurant, which uses brilliant local produce to create spectacular dishes, or eat poolside at the more casual Hudson Springs Bar and Grill. Check rates and availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or montage.com/healdsburg Where to eat in Sonoma County Barndiva, Healdsburg Quirkily decorated and with bags of charm, Barndiva recently turned its back on the Michelin-starred food it used to serve and now focuses on more approachable, more affordable dishes made from fantastic local organic produce. Drinkers are spoilt for choice with inventive seasonal cocktails and an incredible international wine list. barndiva.com Catelli’s, Geyserville Fifth-generation family-run Italian restaurant lies on Geyserville’s main street. It’s laid back and lots of fun with homemade pasta dishes, vibrant salads and local wine the highlights, all served with warm and welcoming hospitality. mycatellis.com Cyrus, Geyserville Set right on the edge of vineyards with Sonoma’s majestic mountains as a backdrop, this beautiful restaurant will take your breath away. Settle in for a multi-course dining experience of many dazzling dishes, or just treat yourself to a glass of fizz and very superior bar snacks in the Bubble Lounge. cyrusrestaurant.com Mendocino County North of Sonoma, at the upper end of Highway 128, sleepy Mendocino County is a lesser-known and more laid-back wine region but has loads to offer intrepid drinkers and tourists alike. Dramatic landscapes, from rolling hillsides inland to the rugged Pacific coastline, provide diverse microclimates for its mainly small, family-owned wine producers, many of whom are committed to sustainable, organic and/or biodynamic practices. Cooling maritime breezes give elegant, poised wines, especially in the Anderson Valley which produces excellent pinot noirs and chardonnays, as well as other cool-climate grapes such as riesling. Warmer inland areas are known for riper, more robust zinfandels, syrahs and cabernet sauvignons. Many wine producers welcome visitors and there are also plenty of brilliant local breweries and cider makers – pay a visit to Gowan’s Heirloom Cider, established in 1876 and set on the edge of an orchard of very old apple trees, and taste through their range of lovely award-winning ciders. What to do in Mendocino Mendocino town is a good base from which to explore the area. Right on the coast with rocky cliffs and surf-bashed beaches either side, Mendocino’s pretty Victorian architecture dates from its heyday as a logging centre in the 19th century. These days it’s more of a village, attracting artists and craftspeople as well as tourists who are well served with good accommodation and dining options. As well as great eating and drinking, there are loads of activities for outdoorsy types in the region. Hiking, cycling, horse-riding and fishing are all available, or paddle up the appropriately named Big River from Catch-a-Canoe on the edge of Mendocino where you can rent canoes of different sizes to explore the wild and wonderful nature all around – look out for otters, seals and herons. Where to stay in Mendocino Stanford Inn Mendocino Stay in gorgeous, cosy wooden cabins with balconies overlooking the extensive gardens and out to the sea in this lovely hotel on the outskirts of Mendocino town. Innovative all-vegan organic food at on-site Ravens Restaurant, a heated pool and a well-stocked bookshop with the emphasis on wellness and good living are a few of its many charms. Check rates and availability at stanfordinn.com Where to eat in Mendocino Cafe Beaujolais Set in an attractive 19th century farmhouse in the town of Mendocino, this restaurant has been running since 1968. Great French-Italian-Californian dishes are served with old-school charm and there’s a really interesting wine list of bottles from Europe as well as the US. cafebeaujolais.com Noyo Fish Company, Noyo Harbour Don’t miss this casual, sunny joint in the middle of Noyo harbour where you can soak in the atmosphere of the busy fishing town. Huge portions of super fresh fried fish, oysters, tacos and other treats are best washed down with excellent local beers. Pennyroyal Farm, Boonville This charming farmstead makes its own wine as well as handmade cheeses using milk from its own flocks of sheep and goats. Drop by for a wine and cheese tasting, visit the animals and stay for delicious food made with wonderful produce from the organic kitchen garden. pennyroyalfarm.com Napa Valley Napa Valley still produces some of the world’s most prestigious (and costly) wines, and is a playground of delights for the millions of well-heeled, wine-loving tourists who visit each year. There are now over 400 wineries, many of which have their own tasting rooms to welcome visitors. Cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are the king and queen of the grapes here and make Napa’s most famous wines. What to do in Napa Valley Napa is a premium region for its quality of tourist offerings as well as its wines. There are countless top-notch uber-luxe hotels, many with their own immaculate vineyards, golf courses, spas and anything else your holidaying heart could desire. Roll up your sleeves and roll out the dollar bills as everything costs big here but serious wine lovers are unlikely to leave disappointed. You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to winery visits. Some, like Castello di Amorosa, a complete facsimile of a 14th century Tuscan castle complete with torture chamber and antique suits of armour, are more like theme parks. My pick of the crop is Sterling Vineyards, one of the oldest producers in Napa, offering stunning views from the cable-car ride that takes you up to the hillside winery. Renovated following damage in the 2020 fires that wreaked such havoc on the region, the winery has interesting explainers as you walk around seeing all stages of production up close, and some very good wines in the bar which has a panoramic terrace, as well as artwork treasures by the likes of Picasso and Matisse on the walls. Where to stay in Napa Valley Dr. Wilkinson's Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs Calistoga is Napa’s northernmost town, more low-key than the rest of the valley and with a rustic, historic charm. Dr. Wilkinson's has well-appointed modern rooms and warm mineral pools, plus an on-site spa including its famous mud bath treatments and a restaurant serving healthy but delicious Mexican-inspired vegan food. Check rates and availability at booking.com or drwilkinson.com Best restaurants in Napa Valley Mustard’s Grill A staple of Napa Valley dining for more than 30 years where you rub shoulders with truck drivers, winemakers and in-the-know tourists. Generous servings of excellent American dishes served along with an astonishing wine list drawn from across the US and Europe. Really good fun and not to be missed. mustardsgrill.com Oakville Grocery California’s oldest grocery store; lots of tempting food to take away or eat in, and a splendid collection of wine to taste by the glass, including those from some of Napa’s most prestigious producers. oakvillegrocery.com Truss Restaurant & Bar Eat on the drop dead gorgeous terrance overlooking the valley’s vineyards here at the Four Seasons Hotel & Resort. Innovative but crowd-pleasing food using local produce, unsurprisingly wonderful wines and charming service. fourseasons.com/napavalley Yolo County Just to the south of Napa, Yolo County is known as a more low-key (and cheaper) alternative; locals say it’s like Napa was 30 years ago. Most of its wine producers are small, boutique operations, often family-run farms which also grow other crops. This is a solidly agricultural region where grapes grow alongside walnuts, olives, plums, apricots and almonds, and it is one of the world’s largest producers of sushi rice – which is why very few of the wines make it across the pond to the UK. What is there to do in Yolo County? With activities such as trekking, horseback riding and fishing, Yolo is also a resting place for migratory birds on their annual trek from Canada to Mexico and back, so has lots to offer nature-loving visitors as well as those more interested in wine. Unlike Napa, it’s one of the most diverse regions in terms of grape varieties grown, ranging from albariño to zinfandel and with so many in between. Twenty five miles from Sacramento Airport, the town of Winters makes a great base from which to explore Yolo. It has a certain sleepy, wild west feel to it, with pretty buildings and plenty of eating and drinking options including tasting rooms of some of the regions’s best wine producers, such as Berryessa Gap Winery & Brewing Company and Turkovich Family Wines. Winters is also the start of Highway 128 which travels 144 miles through Napa and Sonoma to Albion on the coast of Mendocino County and would make a fantastic road trip for wine-loving travellers. Where to stay in Yolo County Hotel Winters Slap bang in the middle of Winters with comfortable, well-equipped rooms, a rooftop bar, excellent restaurant and a luxury spa, Hotel Winters offers small-town charm and warm hospitality with all mod cons. Check rates and availability at booking.com or hotelwinters.com Where to eat in Yolo County Park Winters Just 10 minutes' drive from Winters town and set in a charming eco-friendly flower farm that also grows its own organic food, Park Winters serves fabulous weekend brunches, as well as pizzas made in their outdoor wood-fired oven on Thursday-Sunday evenings. You can also stay at The Inn at Park Winters which has four lovely rooms in the beautifully restored main house on the site. parkwinters.com Steady Eddy’s A Winters institution, Steady Eddy’s is a terrific café and coffee roasters serving breakfast, brunch and lunch dishes using fabulous fresh local produce, including very generous salads, sandwiches and homemade cakes, as well as a range of their own coffees and smoothies, and local beers and wines. steady-eddys.com L’Apero à Trois Three women, all with backgrounds in food and/or farming, run this pretty bar and tasting room in the middle of Winters and produce their own delicious farmhouse-style aperitifs using local fruit and nuts. Take the tasting flight to sample the full range, alongside carefully matched and beautifully cooked snacks. They also have bi-monthly seasonal dinners which are well worth looking out for. laperolestrois.com More travel inspiration Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Grenadian cuisine: how to cook like a local
Enjoy the flavours of this Caribbean island, from spiced baked crab to nutmeg-spiked ice cream
Want to learn about the cuisine of Grenada? Discover what makes this unique cuisine special, plus three recipes to try, from Keshia Sakarah. For more global recipes, check out our guides to Turkish cuisine and Singaporean cuisine. Recipes extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caribe-Caribbean-Cookbook-Keshia-Sakarah/dp/1784886831/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1UN7OWN5NXV9I&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.eRWmtxRCd67J4vOExzuxrlPkNSGXaOiRcmuNqR6qNeBMVZqKDQBifuBcj8D-R9sBvNqq0IQ6R-u8HdGzUpamCuh-GTuOTL46atwQueTHT4KVLNqzoCv13mmjy5vesGYlW9TU5tfgIVBBnu0ZNIW193w_-6wUgXJawRUpVC0IYpigLo7EPdWd6a11ifhdL3Ra6MkCmklHoNQcIR_LIet8GK-WM-SmgkpMkIzp0nRy2ms.vG1TEEtnDNKQmz6T6F5v2g9-f6clWH5a6ivDNMj9JKE&dib_tag=se&keywords=caribe&qid=1747058862&s=books&sprefix=caribe+%2Cstripbooks%2C91&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-263619" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">Caribe by Keshia Sakarah (£30, Quadrille). Photography © Matt Russell. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. Grenadian cuisine Sitting slightly north-west of Trinidad and Tobago, and south-west of St Vincent and the Grenadines, Grenada is an evergreen, mountainous, plush island, abundant with spice plants, fruit trees, waterfalls and old volcanic lakes. The old Georgian-style buildings overlook the Carenage harbour, as a subtle but distinct reminder of the island’s colonial past. The isle is full of vibes yet peaceful and very welcoming by the Grenadian people. At night you may hear soca or calypso playing in the distance, laughter and conversation from the community limin’ (hanging out), but in the morning you’ll always hear the grounding call of cockerels as the sun comes up to start a new day. Known by many as the spice isle, nutmeg has historically been one of the main agricultural exports and, as such, it sits in the centre of the flag, representing the island’s devotion to the spice in its cooking. As well as spices, cocoa trees covered with multicoloured cacao pods line the roadsides freely. Once harvested, the pods are fermented in wooden boxes under banana leaves, sun-dried then ground to make local chocolate or an islandwide classic, cocoa tea – Caribbean hot chocolate that is spiced, rich and sweet. Red hands, tuna and barracuda are some of the fresh, local fish swimming in Grenada’s surrounding waters that the fishing town of Guave has long been known for. Grenadian food is varied and eclectic, from creole fish and cou cou to fried lambí (conch) or saltfish and bake. The national dish, oildown, is a special one, often cooked for large gatherings, although you can find it at local spots serving it up on Fridays or Saturdays. Oildown combines salted pork, saltfish and chicken with curry spices, layered in between dumplings and ground provisions, then topped with a layer of dasheen leaves and cooked in turmeric coconut milk. The red, gold and green colours of the ingredients mirror that of the flag representing wisdom, agriculture and unity respectively. The experience of the food, people and land has forever changed me, and it will always hold a special place in my heart. Keshia's recipes from Grenada Cocoa tea Almost like hot chocolate, this is the best tea recipe you’ll ever taste. The tradition of cocoa tea drinking is said to have originated in the West Coast town of Soufriere, St Lucia around 1833, following abolition. As tea leaves were harder to source but cocoa was not, it became a new custom that has stuck ever since. I first tried this in St Lucia with bek fwi (fry bakes) for breakfast and have never looked back. Boiling the raw cocoa with the spices (and bergamot peel, as my friend from Grenada does) before adding the milk and sugar gives the tea an extra warmth and hum. Cocoa has been grown and exported from St Lucia, Grenada and Dominica, to name a few, for centuries. Along with sugar and coffee, cocoa was one of the main exports to Europe and beyond. Grenadian crab back (stuffed crab shells) Blue crabs spend most of their life on the land, unless it’s mating season, hence their historic uses within Caribbean cooking – where fishing was not possible, land crabs were easy to utilise as a protein source. The outside shell is a blend of purple, grey and blue with the underbelly commonly white. For the best crab backs, the fresh crabs are boiled, before removing the meat and mixing with fresh green seasoning and topping with breadcrumbs. I used Cornish crab for this recipe, with a mixture of both white and brown crab meat which worked well – however, you can use exclusively white crab meat but that may be a little more pricey. This recipe can be made using pre-picked crabmeat and ramekins if you prefer. Nutmeg ice cream Nutmeg is precious to Grenada and this ice cream is a local favourite. This recipe is very easy to make even if you don’t have an ice cream maker.
Martin Louzao, head chef of Cocina Abierta, shares the highlights of Puerto Rican cuisine and culture from his island homeland
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of Puerto Rico so special, from an abundance of tropical fruits to Caribbean lobster and fresh fish. Plus, we share where to eat and where to stay whilst you're in Puerto Rico. For more deep-dives into global cuisines, check out our guides to the South Tyrol, Grenada, South Africa and Mumbai. Jump to: 10 things we love about Puerto Rico Where to eat and drink in Puerto Rico Where to stay in Puerto Rico 10 things we love about Puerto Rico Tropical fruits Over 1,000 exotic fruits grow here, guava is the most popular currently. Everything is guava flavoured, from cocktails to energy drinks. You can find it in a paste, for eating with cheese and crackers or even adding to toasted sandwiches. It is also reported to be a fantastic hangover cure! Jueyes (crab) alcapurria Alcapurria are a filled fritter with a dough made from plantain and taro. They’re usually filled with ground pork, but the crab ones are delicious, filled with a rich sauce and chunky pieces of crab. I love alcapurria de jueyes because it connects me to the past, to a pre-industrial time when people cooked with honest, local ingredients. Traditional Christmas food Christmas is a hugely important time in Puerto Rico. We make pasteles, which are similar to a tamale, but made with green plantain and cassava. We fill them with roasted pork with sofrito, which is a flavour base for our cooking. It is made of onions, sweet peppers, garlic, tomatoes and coriander, though every family has its own version. Christmas is special to me because It’s a bit of flavour mixed with nostalgia—food evokes memories, and those from the holiday season here are the most beautiful. Fresh fish In Puerto Rico, commercial fishing is artisanal, regulated, and there are around 170 species in our underwater ecosystems. From mahi-mahi, snook, yellow-fin tuna to dorado. They can be prepared in all manner of ways, from bacalao (salted fish) to ceviche or carpaccio. At Cocina Abierta, we roast snook in our wood-oven and serve with a coconut ‘beurre blanc’; it is one of our favourites. Caribbean lobster Caribbean lobster, sometimes called spiny lobsters, are a species of lobster that have a firmer textured meat than Atlantic lobsters. We serve them with a chilli crisp which is a winning combination. The waterfalls in El Yunque Puerto Rico has diverse landscapes – of course we are famous for our beautiful beaches, but we also have mountains, and a rainforest, El Yunque. It has 29,000 acres of lush greenery and three large waterfalls. There is nothing better than standing underneath a waterfall on some of our hottest days. Sunset in Rincón Rincón is a fantastic town on the west coast of the island that has amazing beaches and a thriving surfing scene. The sunsets are some of the best in the world. If you’re into surfing, make sure you check out María’s beach. In the winter it hosts pro-surfing events and in the summer, it has a more relaxed vibe. Bar hopping in Old San Juan Puerto Ricans know how to party! There is a bustling nightlife scene in Old San Juan, with plenty of drinks and dancing. There’s something for everyone; I like heading to La Factoría for cocktails, grabbing a quick bite at Caleta, and jazz and mezcal cocktails at La Grieta. Mangrove forests in Piñones The mangrove forests in Piñones are the biggest network of natural mangroves in Puerto Rico – it really is an ecological paradise. Follow a trail through the mangroves near the reefs where you can spot wildlife such as sea turtles, crabs and all varieties of birds. Pack a cooler full of alcapurrias and oysters to enjoy at the end. Attending a Bomba event Bomba is the traditional dance of Puerto Rico, blending the three cultural heritages of PR; African, Spanish & Taino. Taino are the indigenous people of Puerto Rico. The dance is a lively call and response style between a drummer and a dancer. The events are full of joy and celebration. It is definitely worth seeing a performance. Where to eat and drink in Puerto Rico Café Cuatro Sombras This micro-roastery is an interactive coffee where you can see the machines going as you sip. As well as spectacular coffee there’s a small menu, including a must-try grilled ham and cheese croissant with guava jam. cuatrosombras.com Choco Bar Cortés This café is devoted to all things chocolate and has an impactful social history. In 1902, the US banned the teaching of Spanish in schools, so comic strips in the wrappers of the chocolate bars helped teach young Puerto Rican’s how to read their language. It still offers traditional hot chocolate served with a piece of cheddar cheese. Don’t knock it until you try it! chocobarcortes.com Cocina Abierta Chef Martin’s restaurant is an absolute masterclass in Puerto Rican flavour and the duck mofongo is a must-try. This was one of the first restaurants to re-open after hurricane Maria, where they rallied together and fed their local community. cocinaabierta.net La Faena Head chef Kevin Garcia centres on local and seasonal ingredients. The restaurant collaborates with farmers all over the island, favouring the locally grown over imported ingredients. The result is a fresh, exciting menu in a relaxed atmosphere. instagram.com/lafaena.pr Frutos del Guacabo This is a small but mighty farm focussing on hydroponics and sustainable farming. In guided tours you can sample all the things the farm has to offer, including milking a goat. They grow everything from mangoes, chillies, pomegranates, lime leaves, microherbs, all supplying local restaurants and communities. frutosdelguacabo.com Flavors Food Tours Flavors Food Tours offers an in-depth and delicious food tour away from the classic tourist spots of San Juan, peppered with samples such as ceviche, Puerto Rican coffee and pure fruit ice lollies, as well as snippets of social and cultural history. sanjuanfoodtours.com Sofrito Tours If you’re exploring the island, Sofrito tours, named after the staple Puerto Rican ingredient, will show you some of the best food off the beaten track. I loved the circular alcapurrias at Sazón de Sylvia. You can pick a side of the island to explore in depth and Laura will tailor the tour to you. If you choose the northeast of the island, you might get lucky and see the manatees at Loiza. sofritotourspr.wordpress.com Hacienda tres angeles Up in the mountains of Puerto Rico resides the most idyllic coffee hacienda. This family-run coffee farm is surrounded by incredible views and run by lovely, knowledgeable people. Seeing the ‘bean to cup’ experience really makes you appreciate the coffee we rely on every day! haciendatresangeles.com Casa Bacardí The piña colada was originated in Puerto Rico, although there is still debate as to where; (either the Caribe Hilton or Barrachina). Visiting the Bacardi distilleries is a lot of fun. You can have a tour, take part in a mixology class or just sip on their wide cocktail selection. bacardi.com/casa-bacardi Where to stay in Puerto Rico Aire de Olive A stone’s throw from some of the most stunning beaches, Aire de Olive offers a luxury, laid-back, bohemian vibe. The 80-room hotel gives a more personal feel and you're very much encouraged to view it as a home away from home. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, furnished with sustainable materials such as wood, rattan and cotton, and use low-energy lightbulbs, many with a sea-view. There are two great spots to eat, head to the rooftop bar for KUMO, offering relaxed fare such as burrata and wagyu sliders, or to AWWA, the raw bar, for dishes such as sashimi with passionfruit – an omakase with Puerto Rican touches throughout. There is a rooftop pool for relaxing with one of the many cocktails from the menu, or walk the 30 seconds to the beach for a dip in the sea, where they provide you sun loungers and towels. It's very close to the airport, too, which is very handy. Rooms start from £300 a night, check availability at booking.com or airedeolive.com More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
Try the diverse flavours of this iconic city, from soft chewy pretzels to cumin-spiced noodles
Want to learn about the cuisine of New York? Looking for recipes from New York? Read Yasmin Newman's guide to the food of New York then discover our guides to North Mexican food and Peruvian food and then try our American recipes. Recipes extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/EAT-NYC-iconic-recipes-that/dp/1922754234/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1T00ZS2HC75VC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FQ4-8VIjziIynUtWTUZzEAh17XyC-zlALelmTrnaahXM3TgB9vHS6GLDLnENDTynOglmVS4O_ByAfHpZQPJg4R3f7K-aXTzuYDbD_MFQAuU1hWv5-nMKpNoU4ER-Khd1h6StpgHtyoyRzfT5Lis9oYYv31toL_ClZ6uNM0Lr80IkhArYJLz4Gz8F0XvCgKvnmzPciAtGdl-mkA4Ak8rxjTfGYGbEeFsbiCz2D8hNz5ZSCBmCO6U0hnpFlBSF5z6C-97IGGPTr8xbDvCYpSVJ75y0ssUCwqQixGPLLacyzvw.xn6SuBAWY_ioQMzeh9wtrPKgjdtergtNDXDZZMs7sRw&dib_tag=se&keywords=EAT+NYC&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736338985&s=books&sprefix=eat+nyc%2Cstripbooks%2C207&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-247853" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">EAT NYC by Yasmin Newman (£35, Smith Street Books). Photographs: Alan Benson. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. New York cuisine Of the world’s cities, New York is one people feel they know, even if they’ve never been here. From Broadway to Wall Street, New York has helped shape global culture and the same goes for its food. Bagels, pizza by the slice, Katz’s Delicatessen and Magnolia Bakery are a handful of household names the city has inspired. What makes New York such an incubator of innovation? Partly its sheer size. Home to more than eight million people, New York City is the most densely populated city in the United States with more than 25,000 restaurants catering to every food niche. There’s also unparalleled diversity. At last count, migrants account for more than 30 percent of the population, hailing from more than 180 countries around the world. Around 200 distinct cuisines now call the Big Apple home, from Ukrainian to Hunanese, Ecuadorian and Nigerian. At the same time, there’s the city’s undeniable influence: Jewish-American delis, Italian-American restaurants and halal carts blending South Asian, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Caribbean cuisines are just a few of the unique culinary cultures born from all social walks living side by side. Connected through five boroughs and a vast grid of streets and avenues, the city’s character-filled communities are part of New York’s one-of-a-kind appeal and where traversing the city is just as rewarding as the final destination. From the historic brownstones of West Village and cobbled streets of SoHo, the storied grit of Chinatown and Lower East Side, the melting pot of Astoria and Harlem, or the grandeur of the Upper East and West Sides, each neighbourhood offers a new dish to discover. The turn of seasons also brings a return to cherished experiences. Park picnics and cold, creamy desserts in summer. Gulping bowls of ramen and cider in fall. Cozy upstate getaways, and grilled cheese and tomato soup specials come winter – and spring, blossoming with new produce from farmers’ markets. From street food to hot spots (and both are just as good) and almost every cuisine and food fixation in between, there’s something for everyone in NYC — and more of it than any other place in the world. Yasmin Newman's New York recipes New York crumb cake In bakeries, bodegas and coffee shops, generous slices of crumb cake call out from the counter. The defining New York touch is the ratio, size and texture of the crumb – at least a third to three-quarters of the cake – and large, fall-apart-in-your-mouth rubbles. Street cart soft pretzels In America, pretzels first made landfall in Pennsylvania with German immigrants who arrived at the turn of the 1700s. A century later, a second wave of migrants brought pretzels to New York, peddled in beer halls in Little Germany on the Lower East Side and then in street carts around the city. Today they are one of New York’s most enduring street snacks, the large rings conveniently stacked on rods to grab, or warmed in a heated cabinet on vendors’ carts. The best are soft yet slightly chewy, with a dark golden skin from being boiled before baking, slow-fermented for a richly flavoured dough and speckled with fat crystals of salt. Spicy cumin lamb noodles Within the many Chinese enclaves in NYC is the food of Shaanxi, a province at the eastern end of the ancient Silk Road, known for its fiery, spice-laden cuisine. Xi’an Famous Foods began selling specialities from the region at a stall in a Flushing mall and quickly expanded across New York as locals fell for the hand-pulled biang biang noodles rippled with chilli oil and moreish, heavy-handed spicy cumin lamb. While both dishes are commonly found in parts of China, the crowd-pleasing two-in-one combo was born in New York at XFF. For ease, this adapted recipe uses wide store-bought noodles with ground, toasted spices for intense flavour.
Austin, Texas: a local shares what to eat and where to try
Alexa Mejia, chef de cuisine of Emmer & Rye, shares what makes this Texas city’s food and drink culture so special, plus we share where to eat and stay
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of Austin in Texas so special from Alexa Mejia, chef de cuisine of Emmer & Rye. From food trucks and festivals to famous barbecue, local produce and distilleries, there is plenty for foodies to enjoy. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, the Algarve in Portugal, the Isle of Skye in Scotland, Cork in Ireland or Istria in Croatia. Jump to: 10 things to know about Austin cuisine Where to eat in Austin Where to stay in Austin Day trip to Fredericksburg What to eat in Austin, Texas Food trucks We love food trucks. Most of the flagship restaurants in Austin started as food trucks. Before he opened Barley Swine, Bryce Gilmore had a food truck called Odd Duck which he ran with his brother that was so successful he could open a bricks and mortar restaurant. The trucks usually set up at these large patio spaces, which are typically breweries. For example, Meanwhile Brewing is a newer one that has an excellent line-up of food trucks at it. Farm-to-table We really want to shorten the gap between restaurant and farm. We’ve actually partnered with our local farm, Trosi Farms. They collect our compost, use it to grow produce for us, and some of my team even volunteer to work on the farm because they love being part of the whole cycle. The shorter the journey from the soil to your plate, the better it tastes. We get to have conversations about the kind of produce we want and we can make a promise to use everything they grow for us. Peaches Texas has some really delicious peaches which thrive due to the hot, dry summers and mild winters. Just a little over an hour from Austin you’ll find Fredericksburg, which is famous for growing them. In season, you can drive through and see plenty of peach trees and peach stands selling them. We’re also one of the largest producers of melons, specifically watermelons. Wagyu beef Texas has got really smart with breeding. Farmers found that they could crossbreed Black Angus cattle with Japanese Wagyu cattle to get these bigger Wagyu cattle and that’s become really popular on menus. At Emmer & Rye we use Iron Table Wagyu, which is 100% Wagyu cattle, raised in Texas. It’s a smaller breed but has the high density of fat marbling that is so prized. Texas barbecue Texas is famous for beef barbecue. Brisket, beef ribs and even whole animal barbacoa, which is the influence of Mexico coming in. The rub here is very simple, usually just salt and pepper – the important thing is the smoke they use and the relationship that has with the beef. Most barbecue in Austin is first-come, first-served, so you have to wait in line and if they run out they’re done for the day. And don’t expect to get BBQ on a Monday – Sunday is most people’s day off so the smokers don’t get lit. Speakeasies Austin has a great cocktail bar scene and there are lots of speakeasies tucked behind unmarked doors or behind fake storefronts. I really like a place called Small Victory which is hidden behind what looks like the entrance to a multi-level parking garage. I get the Painkiller, which is a pineapple, coconut and rum cocktail served in a very tall glass. Food festivals We love a festival in Austin. There’s the Austin Food & Wine Festival which is a big one. There’s also Hot Luck, a grilling fest where chefs cook everything over live fire so you can taste the wood and the smoke. There’s also times when music coincides with food like Austin City Limits. There’s multiple stages across downtown parks as well as fields and fields of food vendors. Distilleries There are lots of great distilleries in Austin. Still Austin is probably one of my favourites (it was also the first distillery opened within Austin city limits since prohibition). They do gin and whiskey which is made mainly with local heirloom heritage grains. The botanicals for their gins are usually grown in Texas as well, so a lot of wildflowers and citrus. They give their spent grain from making spirits to cattle ranchers, too, so you also have very happy cattle. Farmers’ markets Farmers’ markets happen at different places all week – you have Mueller farmers’ market on Sunday, downtown Austin twice a week and another at Barton Creek. Mueller market even built an indoor section so people could get out of the blazing heat of summer. The farmers we buy from will drive into the city to do the markets, then drop off deliveries for us so it makes it much easier for both consumers and restaurants to get high-quality local produce. The Michelin Guide We’re all pretending not to care but we’re secretly excited about Michelin coming to Texas. They announced that they had started reviewing at the beginning of this year and the stars will be awarded at the end of the year. So there’s a lot of chefs waiting to hear. I’m not sure Austin really needs the Michelin Guide though – what’s special about the food scene is its chefs who are just really passionate about Austin itself. (Ed’s note: In November 2024 seven Austin restaurants were awarded Michelin stars; Emmer & Rye was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand and a Michelin Green Star.) Where to eat and drink in Austin, Texas Perla’s Seafood and Oyster Bar Grab a coveted table on the giant oak-shaded patio overlooking South Congress Avenue and indulge in spankingly fresh seafood. As well as oysters on ice (there’s usually at least 12 varieties on offer) and seafood platters from the cold bar, you’ll find expert fish cooking with dishes such as Espelette shrimp and blue crab gumbo and crispy red snapper with lemon spinach. Order the draft paloma with a Tajín salt rim for a perfect aperitivo. perlasaustin.com Prélude Chef Matt Peters opened this cocktail and canapé lounge as a taster of his next fine dining restaurant, Maven, which will eventually occupy the second floor of this beautiful historic house in west downtown Austin. The luxe surroundings (think colour-drenched walls, plush velvet and seductive low lighting) are echoed by the craft cocktails and beautifully presented small plates. Cocktails are season- and ingredient-inspired – try the Pines & Miso with its complex mix of mezcal, pine-infused vermouth and miso caramel. Canapés are perfectly executed (large) bites designed with some playful touches like chicken nuggets with whipped dill crème fraîche and pickled green tomatoes or corn hushpuppies with iberico ham and black truffle mornay sauce. prelude-austin.com Emmer & Rye Tucked away at the end of Austin’s famous bar-lined Rainey Street is this cool, airy dining room which champions farm-to-table. The restaurant embraces heritage grains (hence the name) which are milled locally to make its pasta, fermentation and full-animal butchery, and menus change daily depending on that day’s farm deliveries. Inventive plates include ricotta-stuffed ravioli with parmesan whey sauce and fennel oil, and a rich smoked wagyu beef ragu with handmade pappardelle. The cocktail menu is concise and fun – try Le Vida Verde, a zingy mix of tequila, mezcal, cucumber, Serrano chilli and lime. emmerandrye.com Garbo’s This cute 10-seater counter restaurant was founded by three sisters who relocated from the east coast to Austin via a series of food trucks. Star of the menu is the lobster roll served either Connecticut-style (butter-poached and warm) or Maine-style (chilled with lemony mayo), both stuffed into a soft New England style bun. You can add a touch of luxe to either with an optional caviar topping. garboslobsteratx.com Otoko x Watertrade Located at the South Congress Hotel but housed in its own separate space hidden away at the top of a set of metal stairs, Otoko is the 12-seater restaurant where chef Yoshi Okai blends Tokyo and Kyoto cuisine into a multi-course omakase experience. For a more casual experience, Watertrade is the adjoining cocktail bar specialising in Japanese whiskies, sake and dramatic craft cocktails like Heaven and Earth – a heady mix of Banhez mezcal, Cynar and Campari which is served under a glass cloche filled with hickory smoke. The izakaya-style menu of bar snacks and small dishes includes raw plates like ocean trout crudo with cucumber, ocean pear and ponzu, and nasu (aubergine) frites with hamachi salt and tofu crème fraîche. otokoaustin.com Where to stay in Austin, Texas South Congress Hotel One of Austin’s trendiest districts, South Congress (or SoCo) is a long avenue of traditional Austin low-rise buildings peppered with art galleries, music venues, restaurants and upmarket shops (as well as vintage clothing and cowboy boot stores). This boutique-style hotel sits bang in the centre and has enough going on to encourage guests to linger. There are six food and drink offerings – as well as the cool Lobby Bar there is a modern take on a chop house, Maie Day; an all-day Café No Sé; and Mañana, a coffee shop and bakery. Set apart from the main building is the Japanese-inspired Otoko x Watertrade. The stylish rooms are furnished in a cool, minimalist, mid-century modern style with plenty of dark wood and a muted colour palette as well as huge, comfortable beds. Bathrooms are sleek and luxurious with pale tile and bronze, and there are walk-in showers, deep bathtubs and covetable Ursa Major toiletries. The chic rooftop pool is serviced so you can enjoy a cocktail watching over the buzz of South Congress Avenue as the sun sets. southcongresshotel.com Day trip to Fredericksburg Just over an hour from Austin, Fredericksburg is a perfect blend of old-world charm and modern convenience. Famous for its wine – there are over 60 wineries in the area – Becker Vineyards is one of the oldest, housed in a stunning building surrounded by lavender fields, with daily tastings and charcuterie boards available. Nearby Halter Ranch offers dining and wine-matching experiences in Restaurant H, an airy vaulted-ceiling room with an open kitchen. If you want to stay close to the town, the Urban Wine Trail offers an easy way to explore downtown’s tasting rooms and sample local varietals without leaving Main Street (many of the venues offer great food as well). Main Street itself is a treasure trove of boutique shops, galleries, breweries and restaurants – ideal for a leisurely drinking and grazing exploration. If you fancy staying over, Hoffman Haus is a cosy, upmarket B&B retreat that combines modern amenities with Texas Hill Country warmth – with a fresh breakfast basket delivered to cabins each morning. For more information visit traveltexas.com More cuisine guides Finland cuisine: 10 things we love Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love
The cuisine of Grenada: 10 things we love
Grenadian vegan chef Joachim Joseph shares what he loves about his home island, plus where to eat, drink and stay
Learn all about the cuisine of Grenada and what makes it so special. From the history of some of the island's most loved dishes to the soil the produce is grown in. Plus, see our top places to eat and stay on the island to complete your Caribbean adventure. Want to find out more about other global cuisines? Check out our guides to Fez, Istria, Cork and many more in our travel hub. The cuisine of Grenada: 10 things we love The Spice Isle Grenada is famous for its homegrown spices, so much so that it is known as the Spice Isle. Nutmeg and mace are the two biggest that they produce, but also expect to find cinnamon, bay leaf, and turmeric amongst others. Walking through Grenada’s street markets you’ll find plenty of stalls selling packets of fresh spices that are used daily in Grenadian cooking. You also find sweet products like nutmeg jelly and jam. Rum punch Like other Caribbean islands Grenada is a big producer of rum that is often used to make delicious rum cocktails and punches. To make the perfect punch you should remember the phrase “one part sour (lime juice), two parts sweet (grenadine or sugar syrup), three parts strong (rum) and four parts weak (a mix of fruit juices)”. Oil down Grenada’s national dish finds its roots in slavery, a one-pot meal usually combining pigs’ tails, chicken, fish, and vegetables local to Grenada like callaloo and breadfruit. This stew-like dish was made using up ingredients that plantation slaves could easily get their hands. You can make this dish vegan by simply omitting the meat and fish and adding more of the plentiful spices and fresh vegetable produce Grenada has to offer. Cocoa Grenada takes pride in its cocoa production, with six chocolate producers on the island. A popular way to take this is as cocoa tea by adding a cocoa ball which is made of ground raw cocoa nibs mixed with bay leaf, nutmeg and cinnamon to milk and sweetened to your taste. In powder form the cocoa is also perfect for cakes and brownies. Spicemas Spicemas is Grenada’s annual carnival held in August. Over four days the island celebrates its heritage with Soca music, panorama, and street food. The unique Jab Jab on Monday is where masqueraders cover themselves in black oil or charcoal to represent devils, which is what slaveowners in the region used to refer to enslaved Africans as. Fruit You can find fruit growing in abundance in Grenada so expect to have fresh fruit juices wherever you go. Sorrel juice, which is similar in colour and in tartness to cranberry, and golden apple juice, which is sourer than our version of apple juice, are some different options to try when you’re there. You can also get hold of fresh coconut water, perfect for a long hot day. Landscape and soil More than just being picturesque, the importance of Grenada’s landscape has a big impact on the cuisine. Rich, volcanic soil means that the island is great for growing fresh produce and the spices that the island is known for, and there’s nothing quite like enjoying a refreshing fruit punch or rum cocktail in front on one of Grenada’s beautiful waterfalls. Tania log Tania is a root vegetable, similar to a yam, that is a staple for Grenadians. It's popular to eat it for breakfast as a porridge-like dish combined with nutmeg and cinnamon, sugar and milk (use coconut if you want a vegan version). Callaloo Similar to spinach, callaloo is a leafy green plant that is readily available and cheap, which helps explain why callaloo soup was a staple for enslaved Africans on the island and its popularity carries through to today. Usually made with a combination of pumpkin, okra and spices, it makes a fantastic vegan dish, but you could also add meat or crab should you wish. Sea moss A great natural multivitamin, sea moss is high in iodine, potassium, calcium and other vitamins. In Grenada its common to find it in in shops and at markets in gel form which you can then add to smoothies, tania log and most other dishes to provide additional nutrients without affecting the overall flavour. Where to eat in Grenada Dexter’s If you’re driving past, you could easily miss the sign on the side of the road for Dexter’s. Follow the winding pathway and you’ll reach Dexter’s own home that is also his restaurant. Once welcomed into his cosy living room it feels like you’re having dinner round a friend’s house. Dexter’s serves five courses; three set starters, a main with a choice of protein and a choice of dessert to end. facebook.com/Bestexperience7/ Aquarium Restaurant views don’t get much better than Aquarium’s. This open restaurant blurs indoor and outdoor dining and looks directly out to the beautiful Caribbean Sea on Magazine Beach. Enjoy some of the best locally sourced seafood like curried conch and lobster thermidor that Grenada has to offer all while taking in the exquisite coastline and sea breeze. aquariumgrenada.com Dodgy Dock Within True Blue Bay Resort is an oceanfront restaurant, Dodgy Dock. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, you’re able to experience the true flavours of Grenada as well as international favourites. If you go on a Thursday night you can experience the chocolate themed menu, an innovative way of showcasing Grenada’s quality cocoa. truebluebay.com/restaurant/dodgy-dock-restaurant-and-bar Home Hospitality Let Chef Kennedy welcome you into his home for this authentic cooking experience. Learn how to make Grenada’s national dish, oil down, and enjoy it on Chef Kennedy’s balcony which looks out over his expansive garden. You’ll also get a tour of the garden where he grows everything from bananas and passionfruit to cinnamon trees and herbs. Home Hospitality is a true family affair with Chef Kennedy’s wife, Nikoyan, and daughter, Ariel working alongside him. hhgnd.com Where to stay in Grenada True Blue Bay Resort This vibrant waterfront resort on the south coast of Grenada offers rooms, suites and villas to suit all needs. This family-owned climate-smart resort has an onsite restaurant, yoga studio and spa, as well as offering water sports and diving experiences. All rooms feature colourful Caribbean-inspired décor and sustainable furnishings. The Cocoa Pod and Waterfront suites provide beautiful views of the bay and tropical gardens, with balconies perfect for enjoying a morning coffee on. When booking you also have the option to go all-inclusive for complete piece of mind. Rates start from £108 per person per night, check availability at booking.com or truebluebay.com. Silversands Beach House The newest resort in the Silversands collection has just 28 canopied accommodations on the shores of Portici Beach. This secluded spot offers a peaceful, romantic Caribbean getaway with a fine dining restaurant and outdoor wellness room onsite. Choose between an ocean view room or suite, island view king room or a beachfront junior suite, each with a private canopied terrace. Staying at Beach House also gives you access to the amenities at Silversands’ main resort in the popular Grand Anse area. Another beachfront property, this site has several restaurants and a spa that Beach House guests can use. Rates start from £350.19 a night, check availability at booking.com or silversandscollection.com/resorts/beach-house.
North Mexican food: how to cook like a local
Explore the flavours of this sun-soaked region, from crunchy tacos to creamy caramel flan. Karla Zazueta shares her treasured recipes
Want to learn about North Mexican food? Looking for North Mexican recipes? Read Karla Zazueta's guide to North Mexican cuisine, then learn about the food from Mexico City and Peruvian food in our local guides. Words and recipes extracted from Karla Zazueta's book Norteña: Authentic Family Recipes from the North of Mexico (£26, Pavilion Books). Photography: Joe Woodhouse. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. North Mexican cuisine The northern part of Mexico is generally arid and hot, the majority of its landscape being covered with endless deserts, like the Vizcaíno Desert in Baja California or the Sonoran Desert in Sonora. Meat features prominently in the northern Mexican diet and so, besides being extremely friendly, people from the north of Mexico love grilling. Organising a carne asada (northern Mexican barbecue) isn’t reserved for special occasions but instead is something that they do all the time. A good norteño (a person from the north of Mexico) loves eating steak tacos, machaca (dried beef, which is finely shredded) burritos, chilorio (pork marinated in chillies and spices), lamb barbacoa, birria and more. Pinto beans are also commonly served to accompany many dishes – they are usually just fried or sometimes prepared as frijoles puercos (pinto beans with chorizo, bacon and chipotle chilli) or frijoles charros (beans with bacon, pickled jalapeño and spices). People here tend to prefer flour tortillas over corn for making burritos, quesadillas or tacos, but corn tortillas are enjoyed as well. Seafood and fish also play an important role, especially for those living by the coast. I grew up in Ensenada, a coastal town in Baja California, the home state of Baja fish tacos, so we used to eat fish cooked in many different ways, such as fried or in the oven, as well as a lot of other seafood in the form of ceviche, seafood cocktails and broths. There are 14 regions in Mexico that produce wine, with two of the most important ones located in the north – Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California and Valle de Parras in Coahuila. Wine is therefore the beverage of choice for us during a special occasion, but we also love drinking a cold beer, agua fresca (a drink made with fresh fruit) or tejuino (a fermented corn with lime juice drink) on a very hot day. Six of the nine states that make up northern Mexico border the United States, so that has also greatly influenced the way of being, living and eating in the region. For instance, we enjoy having Mexicanized hot dogs after watching a good baseball game. The cuisine of the north of Mexico that I grew up with is the combination of cultures brought by the immigrants that have settled here over the past two centuries as well as the natives indigenous to the region. The result is a versatile cuisine that is evolving and changing all the time. North Mexican recipes Chicken red hominy soup (Pozole rojo de pollo) Popular all around Mexico and consumed long before the Spaniards arrived, pozole was often made as an offering to Xochiquetzal, the god of fertility. Nowadays, pozole is made for national celebrations, like Independence Day or Day of the Dead. However, its versatility means it’s also great to make on a sick day to clear a cold. There are three types of pozole: white, green and red. The red version is very common in the north of Mexico and the guajillo chillies used in the broth create a distinctive bright red colour. Fish tacos (tacos de pescado baja) I’m proud to say that these tacos are 100% native to Ensenada, even though everyone knows them as Baja tacos. This famous recipe was reportedly created by Don Mario in the 1960s, in a taqueria at Mercado Negro, the city’s fish market. He used to sell fried fish in the Bachigualato quarter of Sinaloa, and the fishermen started to ask him to serve the fish in tortillas. That is how the fish taco was born. The original recipe was made with pieces of angel shark fish, although nowadays it can be fried and served as a taco with any white, meaty fish. Later on, another taquero, Zeferino Mancilla Fortuna, added the batter to the fish, not knowing that this would make these tacos world-famous. Make Karla's salsa bandera to go with our Baja-California fish tacos or beer battered fish tacos. Mexican flan (flan mexicano) This recipe for super-creamy flan is easy to make and can be prepared a day in advance. There are different versions of this dessert – some add whole eggs (like this one), others only egg yolks, others use cream cheese. You can also add an extra punch of flavour by including some grated orange zest on top when serving.
Celeste Gordon, resident chef at Jamaica Food + Drink Kitchen, Kingston, shares what makes her heritage cuisine so special, plus where to eat, drink and stay while you're there
Learn all about what makes Jamaican cuisine special, from spices and seafood, to rum and coffee. Plus, discover some top places to eat on the island and the best places to stay. Feeling inspired to have a go at cooking some Jamaican cuisine yourself? Check out our recipes for Jamaican beef patties, Jamaican rum punch and a fluffy spiced Jamaican ginger cake. Jump to: Where to eat in Jamaica Where to stay in Jamaica Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Seasoning and spice Jamaican food is all about flavour and balance, and seasoning. Our food has layers, and that’s something I really love about it. Our soils enrich our produce in a way that’s unique. Spices like pimento, scallion, thyme, ginger, cloves and more combine to elevate the flavours, and add Jamaican character to dishes. Heat from scotch bonnet chillies is optional but popular. Seasonal seafood Snapper is the fish we tend to utilise the most, but we do get good mahi and wahoo. Those are the kind of big fish we can catch in our native waters. We also love grouper and mackerel, and sprats, which run at certain times of the year, traditionally eaten at Easter. We fry them until crispy and they’re everything! Generational skills sharing I tell people that all Jamaicans know how to cook. There are a lot of people that will tell you they don’t but intrinsically I think there is that spark of magic in us that we just love food, we know how to handle food, we grew up around it – a lot of what happens in your family and home life happens around food. You think of all the little tips and tricks you need to learn how to make a lot of different things. I think it’s a generational thing. Our food has been influenced by lots of different cultures. Ice cream on Sundays Surrounded by shade-giving mango and ackee trees in Kingston, I Scream at Devon House is famous for its award-winning Jamaican ice cream flavours and generously sized single-scoop cones. A weekend visit is a Sunday tradition for many locals and families, for whom the grapenut, rum and raisin, subtle coconut and malty stout are a refreshing taste of home. My favourite is coffee but all the flavours are great. The grapenut has a vanilla base but also has grapenuts in there that give it a kind of malty flavour. I put raw grapenuts on top of the ice cream for crunch. They’re very firm, almost like peanuts. Barrel-aged rum The intensity of Jamaica’s sun and tropical climate sees sugar cane thrive. Acres of tall sugar cane are burnt, harvested and the juice extracted for making molasses and sugar. For rum, the molasses is diluted with natural limestone water and yeast, then fermented and distilled before being aged in oak barrels. Its interaction with the wood brings out complex flavour profiles. One year in the tropics is equivalent to nearly three years of aging in temperate climates, so the flavours develop at pace with intensity and complexity. Oxtail stew Ask what Jamaica’s national dish is and you’ll hear oxtail as often as ackee and saltfish. This cut is marinated in pimento, thyme, ginger and more, then seared to lock in flavour before braising on the bone to create a rich gravy with butter beans. Best served with rice and peas. Check out olive's Jamaican oxtail stew recipe to have a go yourself. Blue Mountain coffee The richness of the soil combined with the cool, moist air at over 2,000 feet in the Blue Mountain region create ideal conditions for coffee. It is grown across three parishes in legally specified regions and regulated by the Jamaica Agricultural Commodities Regulatory Authority to ensure the quality is authentic and graded A1. The cherry coffee is patiently given time to develop its flavour before being handpicked and processed within 24 hours to preserve the freshness. Bammy Bammy is made of casava root pressed into little cakes and is one of those things we will have eaten from knee-high to grand pappa. Everyone does it a little bit differently. I like to soak mine in a bit of vanilla milk and salt; some people tend to use coconut milk, while others just use coconut water. These are then fried. Cooking over wood and coals Barrel barbecues are everywhere in Jamaica. Traditionally cooked in old oil drums over pimento wood, modern pan chicken still retains its smoky character and charm. The chicken is marinated in jerk rub or traditional spice blends before being slow-cooked over coals, and remains a firm favourite as street food as much as in restaurants. Ackee and saltfish This is traditionally a breakfast dish. Ackee is indigenous to Jamaica, grown and picked from trees when its bell pepper-shaped fruit is fully ripe. Only the flesh around its seeds is edible, and must be boiled to remove its toxins first. Paired with salt fish, it’s eaten with fried plantain, dumplings, boiled green banana and callaloo, a collard greens-style dish with a texture like spinach. Where to eat in Jamaica Miss T’s Kitchen, Ocho Rios A colourful, welcoming gem in the heart of bustling Ocho Rios that celebrates the heart and character of Jamaican food and culture. There are no walls, for a comfortable al fresco experience. misstskitchen.com Pretty Close 876, Gordon Town, St Andrew Riverside outdoor kitchen where traditional dishes are cooked over coals beside the waterfall pools. It’s reservation-only so make sure to book. Wednesdays-Sundays. Uncorked, Kingston and Montego Bay A favourite of locals, with an extensive menu of global cheeses and delicious dishes with smart wine pairings. Instagram @uncorkedja Teddy’s Beach Grill at Jamaica Inn, Ocho Rios Dine with your feet in the sand beneath the canopy of a large almond tree at this relaxed oceanfront beach bar and grill. jamaicainn.com Waah Gwaan Café, Kingston A perfect fuel stop for some likkle bickle or cooling off with an iced smoothie packed with good stuff. Instagram @waahgwaancafe Where to stay in Jamaica Blowout: Jamaica Inn A favourite of Marilyn Monroe and Winston Churchill, this family run boutique hotel oozes old-school class with the lightest of touches. Its social director, Shadow, a fifth-generation Labrador puppy, greets and guides guests into the tranquil pace of life at Jamaica Inn. Staying here can be a digital detox, with no clocks or TVs in the bedrooms and access to the private beach direct from deluxe verandas or across the croquet lawn. The hotel’s history-steeped legacy underpins forward-looking and environmentally conscious commitments, setting an example for sustainable hospitality in Jamaica with renewable energy, a turtle conservation programme and more. Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, britishairways.com or virginholidays.co.uk Budget: S Hotel Kingston This is a well-connected favourite from which to explore Kingston’s vibrant food scene. It’s packed with luxury for the price. Music’s influence is present in all corners of this hotel, from the record players in the bedrooms to the décor of its Strings & Stones Bar. Order the lava stone shrimp or lobster tail, served sizzling hot for you to finish to your preference. You’ll find a menu of hearty Jamaican dishes in the comfortably formal Rocksteady restaurant, representing the hotel’s international clientele in a localised way. Doubles from £189, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or thomascook.com visitjamaica.com More cuisine guides Isle of Skye cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Istria cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love
Food, drink and travel writer – and Nashville native – Chris Chamberlain shares what to eat and drink in Music City on the olive podcast
Want to learn more about Nashville food? Looking for Nashville recipes and dishes to try? Read our guide below then check out our guide to Nashville's restaurants. We also have our 10 things we love about Floridian cuisine and Cuban-American cuisine. Listen to Chris Chamberlain share the 10 things you need to know about Nashville food and drink in the olive podcast: View oEmbed on the source website 1. The restaurant scene We have great produce, so farm to table has always been very strong here. But chefs realised it didn’t all have to be all shrimp and grits and fried hoe cakes, and they could use local ingredients to create amazing Asian food or rustic Italian menus. Take City House with chef Tandy Wilson. He would substitute grits for polenta or catfish for whitefish in a traditional Italian dish. 2. Preserving It’s trendy in restaurants now but it’s a historic practice. Country ham (salt-cured aged, smoked ham) came from Appalachians who would slaughter a pig, salt, smoke and preserve it so that they’d have meat through the winter. The same thing with corn and whiskey. Excess corn can be converted into whiskey – easy to store in barrels and your neighbours will pay you money for it. 3. Nashville hot chicken You’ll find hot chicken all over Nashville but the founders and champions are still Prince’s Hot Chicken. The story goes back to Thornton Prince who was cheating on his girlfriend. She decided to punish him by piling cayenne pepper all over his chicken until it was infernal, but he loved it and invited his friends over to try it. And they told him he should open a restaurant to serve it. Prince’s Barbecue Shack came out of that. 4. Food trucks Food trucks are a great stepping stone for chefs. Julio Hernandez is a good example. He was working in kitchens but grinding his own maize to make his own masa. That turned into Maiz de la Vida, his food truck and tortilla operation using American corn. He parks in front of Chopper Tiki, a fantastic tiki bar, so you can order your meal from him, go inside and eat with a cocktail. 5. BBQ BBQ is big here but I wouldn’t say we have a unique Nashville style of barbecue. I think that’s because we’ve got three or four interstates that cross within a mile of each other downtown. And they all lead to great barbecue regions like North Carolina, Memphis, St Louis and Alabama. All those influences cross here in Nashville. 6. Tennessee whiskey After Prohibition you could only distill in Tennessee in three counties. For 50 years those three counties only had two distilleries, George Dickel and Jack Daniel’s. The law changed in 2009, now we’ve got an entire Tennessee whiskey trail of 40 different distilleries. We have the perfect climate for it and we’ve got the limestone shelf through which the water is drained and it takes the iron out of the water, so it makes a nice soft whiskey. 7. Gin renaissance If you want to go into business as a new distillery you need to have things you can sell immediately. So the first things off the still are going to be clear spirits like vodka or gin. So in a lot of cases, that is the primary product for the first couple of years of a new distillery. So that’s where we’re seeing our gin renaissance. 8. New food neighbourhoods The Nations is a place that’s growing fast. It was a residential neighbourhood until one corridor of it started popping up restaurants, and now running down 51st Avenue you’ll find 15 great restaurants and bars, a craft butcher and two breweries. We’re also seeing growth going up on the east bank of the city and going north. 9. Craft beer We’ve got about 30 independent breweries across the county brewing to their own style and making what they are passionate about. There’s been a couple of breakout beers in Nashville that are become regionally popular, like Homestyle IPA from Bearded Iris. There’s a lot of collaboration and it’s a small, tight industry. 10. Meat and three, and soul food A meat and three is a down home restaurant where you go down a line and pick one meat, such as roast beef, baked ham or catfish. And then pick your three veg to go with it. A soul food restaurant is similar but the difference is who’s cooking. It’s almost always black-owned restaurants and so that’s a chance to experience a part of Nashville’s community that doesn’t really have a toehold downtown. If you want to experience traditional soul food try Big Al’s Deli or Silver Sands. More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Istria cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love
Patrick Quakenbush, executive chef of Tampa’s Ulele, a restaurant specialising in native Floridian food, shares his recommendations for what to eat and drink in the Sunshine State
Want to learn more about Floridian cuisine? Looking for Floridian dishes to try? Read Patrick Quakenbush's guide below, then check out Florida's foodie neighbourhoods to visit and our Miami foodie guide. Patrick Quakenbush, executive chef of Tampa’s Ulele, a restaurant specialising in native Floridian food, shares his recommendations for what to eat and drink in the Sunshine State. Floridian cuisine: Patrick Quakenbush's guide 1. Cuban sandwiches The pressed Cuban sandwich reflects the migration of Cubans, as well as Spanish, Italians and Germans who came to Florida in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Fillings can vary: pork, ham and cheese are layered with mustard and pickles. Tampa’s version also includes Genoa salami. 2. Alfresco dining Floridians love dining outdoors. They like to feel connected to where they live, and a waterfront view is one way to do that, whether they’re dining casual or something more formal. Florida has 1,350 miles of coastline, so there’s often a water view to enjoy, usually in the sunshine. 3. Grouper sandwiches In the late 1970s, restaurateurs discovered that the inexpensive, mild-flavoured fish made for a great dining experience, especially when fried or blackened and stuffed into a bun. The sandwich took off in popularity, making grouper one of the most popular fish in the state. A grouper sandwich is now, in many people’s eyes, a symbol of being on vacation in Florida and there are as many variations as places that sell them. 4. Fresh seafood As a peninsula, Florida has an abundance of fresh seafood nearby, whether it's served in restaurants or caught on a line during a fishing trip while standing on a bridge or seawall. From fish, such as grouper and snapper, to many varieties of clam, stone crab and Florida lobster, you’ll find it prepared as everything from ceviche to chargrilled. 5. Stone crab Florida’s stone crab season, from October to May, is religiously observed by diners looking to enjoy meaty crab claws dipped in melted butter or a traditional mustard sauce. Florida’s lobster season is equally anticipated, as the spiny delicacies are harvested in the Florida Keys for a mini season in July and then from August to March. You should note that these lobsters don’t have big front claws, eating them is all about the tail. 6. Cocktails and craft beer Across Florida, cocktails have always been popular. Citrus and tropical fruits grow in the state, so there’s a range of readily available flavours to use fresh. Florida also has a beer-making tradition that only continues to expand – find a local one to wherever you are. 7. Michelin-starred dining Florida’s incredible dining scene, including in Tampa, Orlando and Miami, is being spotlighted – there are 15 restaurants with Michelin stars. Ulele is Michelin-recommended, alongside diverse dining experiences from craft bakeries to Thai small plates and smart tasting menus. 8. Breakfast treats In Tampa, breakfast is often a simple café con leche with Cuban toast – this means slices of Cuban bread, buttered and cooked in a sandwich press. Floridians are, of course, big orange juice fans, too. While it’s very American to eat meals and snacks on the go, we certainly enjoy long, leisurely brunches as well. 9. Native ingredients At Ulele, the goal of our native-inspired menu is to emulate what the Tocobaga natives and early European explorers, who arrived during the life of Ulele (the daughter of a Tocobaga chief in the 1500s), would have eaten here in this area of Florida. We serve several dishes made with local ingredients, wild seafood and meats raised on family farms. We make our own hot sauce with the Florida datil pepper, cook oysters on the half-shell over open flames and we encourage our guests to eat alligator hush puppies with their hands. 10. Floridian food culture Florida’s revolving door of diverse guests and locals breeds a unique standard for dining establishments. At any given hour, restaurant guests might be on their way to a theme park, cruise ship or nearby beach. Because of this, some establishments keep things casual, while others create elevated environments, and some restaurants combine styles – it’s not uncommon to see flip-flops at a fine dining restaurant in Florida. More cuisine guides Emilia Romagna: 10 things we love Grenada cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland: 10 things we love Isle of Skye cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Food in Fez: 10 things we love
Florida's foodie neighbourhoods to visit
We've discovered some of the Sunshine State's hottest neighbourhoods for sophisticated cocktails, Cuban sandwiches, Michelin-starred dining experiences and more
Want to make the most of Florida's year-round sunshine? Looking to extend your stay and treat yourself to some next-level food and drink while on a visit to Walt Disney World Florida? Soak up the sunshine over IPAs and tacos in beachside community St Pete, capture a slice of Cuban culture in Tampa City and hop between mural-clad restaurants in Miami's vibrant Wynwood district. For more recommendations check out our Miami foodie guide and the 10 things we love about Floridian cuisine. The EDGE District, St Petersburg This small but thriving section of downtown St Petersburg claims to be one of Florida’s best neighbourhoods, and it certainly deserves its place in this guide. Queue up at the hatch at Bodega’s white, 1930’s-style premises to order Cuban sandwiches, stuffed with lechon pork and pressed until golden, with a side of lively, crunchy jicama, pineapple and mango salad. Across the way is Intermezzo, an elegant coffee shop by day and Italian cocktail lounge come evening. Bartenders turn an impressive selection of amaros into aperitifs such as the punchy 5 Amaro Manhattan. Bag a seat in the open-fronted taproom of St Pete’s first brewery, Green Bench Brewing Company, to enjoy a flight of Florida IPAs and ales while soaking up the state's year-round sunshine. Sit outside Red Mesa Mercado with chimichanga burritos, grilled shrimp tacos and fajita bowls, or build your own poke bowl at Pacific Counter for a refreshing, nutrient-rich lunch. On Central Avenue is Wild Child, a tropical bistro with a handful of tables inside and a large, funky terrace for al fresco dining. Unique dishes involve a riot of flavours and textures; try crisp brussels sprouts on smooth aïoli in fish sauce vinaigrette, panko-coated croquettes filled with creamy butternut squash and mascarpone, and fresh tuna and avocado on a crackling toasted tortilla. The staff get their coffee from sleek and contemporary Bandit Coffee Co across the way, or there’s another branch of cosy and eclectic Black Crow Coffee down the road. Wynwood, Miami Miami’s art district offers all sorts of food and drink spots dotted amongst the mural-adorned warehouses. Sip on small-batch cold brew beneath the shade of an impressive tree at Panther Coffee and plan your visit. This area boasts Michelin-recommended restaurants at both ends of the price spectrum, from Zak the Baker’s babka, challah bread and pastries to Greek dishes in al fresco taverna Mandolin Aegean Bistro, and swanky Michelin-starred tasting menus at Hiden and Le Jardinier. If you're looking for a bolthole in this trendy part of the city then try Arlo Wynwood, complete with a mural-clad staircase leading to a funky tropical cocktail bar and terrace. The rooftop pool is the place to relax for classic Miami vibes; wiggle along to tunes on your sun lounger and sip refreshing mezcal cocktails or tuck into tuna poke bowls beneath candy-striped parasols. The ground floor restaurant is a collaboration with some of Miami’s best-known names, including chef Brad Kilgore and Broken Shaker’s Elad Zvi and Gabriel Orta. Armature Works, Tampa Previously a streetcar warehouse, this riverside food hub showcases food and drink businesses from the Bay Area. Try one of the city’s best Cuban sandwiches at Hemingway's, and taste your way through small-batch sustainable wines at Cru Cellars (originally a small neighbourhood wine shop). Industrial Steelbach focusses on grass-fed, marbled beef from its own ranch outside the city. Alongside juicy steaks, there are southern-style classics including spicy fried chicken buns and plump shrimp on a creamy bed of grits and deep, rich gravy. Pair with cocktails such as basil-infused vodka spritz or choose a dram from the extensive whisky and bourbon list. Behind Armature Works resides one of Tampa’s three Michelin Bib Gourmand winners, Rocca. Bag a sought-after table to try the mozzarella, made fresh tableside by hydrating, pulling and shaping New Jersey cheese curds with hot water. Pasta also makes its mark, particularly the parcels of fresh agnolotti, stuffed with creamy ricotta and salami and topped with crunchy garlic breadcrumbs. Nearby is another iconic building restored by local restaurateurs. Ulele showcases the future of Florida’s food, highlighting native ingredients from the region. Alligator is worked into crispy hush puppy nests, fried okra is served with homemade ketchup, and Gulf Coast oysters are slathered in butter and parmesan then tossed on the open grill. Delicate local pompano fish comes with crawfish tails, crunchy Floridian green beans and crispy carrot ribbons. Bread pudding is made using La Segunda bread, caramelised and sweetened with rum and pineapple, served with homemade coconut ice cream. Exclusive beers are brewed on site, including a Wedding Beer creation that’s creamy and refreshing with a whisper of berries. Ybor City, Tampa This atmospheric neighbourhood of Tampa is rich in history and legend. Built in the 1880s by the thriving cigar industry, it became a hub for immigrant workers from Cuba, Spain, Italy, Germany and beyond. Still at Ybor City’s heart is Columbia, Florida’s oldest Spanish restaurant. Menu stalwarts include the 1905 salad, pollo manchego (juicy crumbed chicken topped with sun-dried tomatoes on paella-style rice), and white chocolate bread and butter pudding. The 1,000-seater original restaurant is a mansion of eclectically adorned rooms that pay homage to the cultures that influenced it. Ybor City bills itself as the birthplace of the Cuban sandwich (though this is hotly contested by Miami). If you have a cubano anywhere in Tampa, the bread is likely to have come from La Segunda, a bakery that’s still going strong in its original location since 1915, close to JC Newman (Tampa’s only remaining cigar factory – it's well worth a visit to learn how the industry shaped the neighbourhood’s culture and cuisine). Bite into a crisp, layered cubano or try the guava turnover for a sweet, flaky accompaniment to a café con leche. For something stronger, small batch brewery, Cigar City, works homegrown ingredients such as habanero peppers into its award-winning beers. Right in the epicentre, boutique hotel Haya preserves Ybor City’s heritage with cigars for sale, an eclectic curation of Cuban artefacts and an on-site contemporary Cuban café, Quiquiriqui. The latter serves Cuban-style coffees alongside empanadas, club sandwiches and breakfast burritos. South Beach, Miami The city’s glamorous, extravagant beach neighbourhood, gridded with palm-lined boulevards of art deco buildings, is where the world’s A-listers come to party. But there are more casual, affordable beachside options for those in the know. Locals roll up on skates, blades and boards to South Beach institution, La Sandwicherie, for crusty French baguettes loaded with fresh ingredients and the magic sauce vinaigrette. Or stop for signature blue corn tacos and quesadillas filled with squash blossoms at Taquiza’s sweeping wooden bar. Further up the beach, Sweet Liberty promises a lively night out. Mixologists climb the ladder to reach the immense library of bottles containing every spirit, liqueur and homemade syrup imaginable. Sophisticated cocktails include toasty coconut sazerac; silky, spiced banana negroni; and sweet and zesty rum-based The Florida Cocktail. Tucked behind pedestrianised Española Way, Esme hotel is an elegant revamp of a bohemian warren of rooms, courtyards, restaurants and bars. Head up to the rooftop for chic pool loungers, plenty of pretty flowers, floating drapes for shade and no less than six varieties of sangria. Come evening, sip on manhattans in the dinky, seductive little bar, El Salón. The Drexel, from the owners of Mandolin Aegean Bistro, serves Mediterranean dishes including wood-fired wild prawns and charcoal tzatziki-laced lamb chops, while Tropezón offers globes of Spanish gin and a selection of tapas. Rattan details, velvet bedspreads and romantic lamps are thoughtfully placed in rooms coated in sultry hues of peach, mustard and teal. Downtown St Pete, St Petersburg St Pete’s Pier was revamped in 2020, stretching over 26 acres, and you can now walk between palms, red hibiscus and purple jacaranda trees that blossom at different times of the year, between which flutters Janet Echelman’s illuminated Bending Arc installation. For views of the pier, Tampa Bay and beyond, rooftop bar Canopy comes alive at night with locals scattered around private cabanas and perched at high tables. For drinks on the ground, leaf through the leather-bound wine list of smart wine bar Allelo, its showstopping feature an intricate mural showcasing endangered birds of Florida. Next door is Ceviche for tapas, paella and zingy versions of its namesake dish. Mooch down to Paradeco Coffee for sustainable coffee in an array of trendy serves, and a scoop of Paciugo’s black cherry or peanut butter chocolate swirl gelato. Stop in at Black Crow Coffee for a warm muffin and coffee, then onwards for a stroll through the Sunken Gardens to spot cockatoos, kookaburras and flamingos flitting between waterfalls, Japanese ponds and tropical plants. Set slightly back from the harbour is The Birchwood Inn, a quirky boutique hotel with 18 rooms. Book a deluxe room to soak in the bathtub before plunging into your four-poster bed, or make the most of the proximity of previously mentioned rooftop bar Canopy. Little Havana, Miami Vibrant Little Havana beats to its own cafecito and mojito-fuelled drum, with live music floating out of bustling bars and dynamic Cuban-American culture on every corner. Casual must-eats include pressed sandwiches at Sanguich de Miami, iconic patties and shoestring fries in old-school diner El Rey De Las Fritas, and no-frills seafood lunches at fish market turned canteen, La Camaronera. Classic Cuban cocktails, live music and a slice of Cuban cantinero culture are to be found at lively, internationally award-winning bar, Café La Trova. Or Olds does a brilliant mojito and ropa vieja stew with live music. Non-Cuban spots include dinky, popular Lung Yai Thai Tapas, whose fiery, fragrant northern Thai plates have bagged it a Michelin Bib Gourmand badge. Hyde Park Village, Tampa Promenade through Tampa's bougie Hyde Park Village for upmarket shopping and grazing. Nourish yourself with smoothies and acai bowls from Clean Juice, get your caffeine fix at sleek Buddy Brew Coffee or pop into chic Timpano any time of day for Italian American dishes and cocktails such as the zingy frozen blood orange negroni. For the all-American experience, Goody Goody burgers is an old-school-style diner, where friends and families gather for hot-off-the-griddle buttermilk pancakes, cheeseburgers with secret sauce, and famous sweet butterscotch or chocolate cream pies washed down with root beer ice cream floats and shakes. A short walk through Hyde Park’s residential streets, lined with houses that embody the American suburban dream (pastel-hued verandas, lanterns lining walk ups, trees tumbling over front yards), is Bern’s Steak House. This legendary restaurant makes for a lavish dining experience, complete with dry-aged steaks and caviar, a dedicated dessert room and one of the largest wine collections in the world. Bern’s is so popular that the Epicurean Hotel was strategically opened across the road. If you can’t get a reservation at the steak house (tables book up to three months in advance), you can try a selection of cuts and wines at the hotel’s Élevage bistro, alongside Florida grouper, chicken schnitzel and mushroom shepherd’s pie. Bern’s Fine Wines also lies in the hotel lobby, where you can peruse rare bottles from the world’s finest classic vineyards. If you prefer cocktails, EDGE rooftop bar boasts sweeping skyline views and a hip, lively crowd. Passe-a-Grille Beach, St Pete Beach This beach community has a rhythm and character of its own, making it well worth a visit. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you pass one of the Bay Area’s most iconic landmarks. The Don CeSar hotel is a Wes Anderson-style pink confection located right on the beach. Pop in for a cocktail or bourbon at the elegant bar. In Passe-A-Grille proper, local character Evander Preston’s legacy lives on in his studio of colourful curiosities, that's still open to visitors. His widow describes his Viking-like stature looming over the hob to host dinner parties for famous guests. Across the way on 8th Avenue is The Berkeley Beach Club and its restaurant The Dewey, owned by the glamorous Maryann Ferenc, who also runs riverside fine-dining restaurant Mise en Place in Tampa City. Rooms are distinctly beach chic, with sweeping balconies to soak up the sunsets. Or head up to the rooftop deck that was built to watch the pink and orange hues melt into the Gulf of Mexico. Take your pick from the Gulf Primeval oyster and raw bar or seafood dishes such as grilled shrimp. For a true American dive bar experience, hop across the way to Shadracks, complete with pool tables, darts and cold beers, as well as a bloody mary bar on the first Sunday of the month. Next morning, join locals at iconic diner Sea Horse, that’s been serving southern-style breakfasts and lunches since 1938. Treat yourself to an iced coffee or scoop of blueberry cheesecake ice cream from Paradise Sweets and stroll along the sugary white sand to the end of the peninsula with views of Shelly Key preserve.
Miami foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
Head to glamorous South Beach and detour to explore Miami’s edgier Wynwood district. And don’t miss vibrant Little Havana for dinky Cuban cafecitos, fresh fish and guava ice cream
Visiting Miami? With blue skies all year round and MIA airport a transit hub for onward flights across South and Central America, we recommend stopping off for a few days to explore this lively Florida city. For more recommendations check out Florida's foodie neighbourhoods to visit and the 10 things we love about Floridian cuisine. Where to eat and drink in South Beach The most glamorous part of Miami, South Beach is where the world’s A-listers come to party. We seek out the most elegant bars, restaurants and people-watching spots among the pencil palms and art deco buildings of Ocean Drive, Collins Avenue and Washington Avenue. Pura Vida – for a healthy breakfast Health-conscious locals come to this bright and breezy spot for smoothies and wholesome breakfasts. On our visit a hefty vegan carrot cake dominated the counter (overseen by gluten-free banana cake, Alyssa’s almond cookies and vegan empanadas) while a row of pineapples framed the juice list. The choice is vast but we liked the sound of Welcome to Miami, so chose this sunny blend of passion fruit, mango, banana and honey. Start the day healthily with one of the pure acai bowls (the PB Energy was our favourite ­­­– raw Brazilian acai blended with banana and peanut butter, topped with strawberry, banana, granola, goji berries, almond slivers and cacao nibs). Puravidamiami.com La Sandwicherie – for a quick lunch This French-owned sandwich shop has been a South Beach institution since 1988. Locals roll up on skates, blades and boards to the palm-framed hatch or bag a red leather stool at the counter and wiggle along to Manuel’s fabulous disco playlist. Crusty French baguettes are loaded with fresh ingredients named after their regional inspiration – think French salami and brie (Frenchie), smoked salmon and mozzarella (Alaskan), ham, salmon, prosciutto and provolone (Italian). Toppings - from cucumbers to cornichons, olives to onions - come at no extra charge, along with La Sandwicherie’s “magic sauce” vinaigrette. Lasandwicherie.com Serena Rooftop – for Mexican al fresco dining Soak up the bustle of Washington Avenue from Moxy South Beach’s vibrant al fresco restaurant and bar. Pretty pink flowers and fairy lights wrap around an intricate wrought-iron canopy, under which tropical foliage-filled planters lie alongisde pink banquettes and blue-cushioned garden furniture. Mexican sharing dishes include super fresh and vibrant aguachiles, with fish or prawns dressed in a ceviche ‘rojo’ (heirloom baby tomatoes, avocado, jalapeño, coriander and tangerine-infused olive oil) or ‘verde’ (Persian cucumbers, avocado, serrano chillies and lemon-infused olive oil). Plus, sushi-grade tuna atop crunchy stone-ground corn tostadas, shredded chicken enchiladas and barbacoa marinated braised short rib. Sit at the bar before dinner while the setting sun casts a pink and orange glow across the iconic art deco buildings. Enjoy Serena’s house passion fruit margaritas or a refreshing ‘The Moxy’ concoction of mezcal, beetroot and ginger, all with a backdrop of Latin music and live DJs. Serenamiami.com Yardbird Southern Table and Bar – for fried chicken and whisky Yardbird was recommended to us by every local we spoke to for its buzzy atmosphere and Southern-style comfort food. When the bread and butter course comes as buttermilk biscuits (scone-like bakes from Louisiana) with sweet honey butter, you know you’re in for a treat. It gets more intense – 10-oz braised short rib is served over cauliflower mash, pickled carrots and spicy chillies; crisp fried chicken is dipped into honey hot sauce and bourbon maple syrup; and three types of beef (brisket, short rib and chuck) are ground into a patty with cheese and pork belly laid on top for the most decadent burger imaginable. If you’ve got room for dessert (hats off to you if so!), try the show-stopping peach cobbler for two, served with homemade vanilla bean ice cream. The bourbon list is over 50-strong, and used to create punchy cocktails such as blackberry bourbon lemonade with cardamom, and six twists on the old fashioned. Or, opt for a craft beer from the taps that run along the large bar (Goose Island IPA, Big Wave American golden ale, Yardbird stock ale). Runchickenrun.com Broken Shaker – for a fun night out This tropical oasis is one of the liveliest night spots on Miami Beach; with its laid-back, care-free vibe it’s a refreshing contrast to the glitz and glam of South Beach. There’s a tiki-style bar made cosy with kitsch wallpaper, bamboo panels and cabinets of trinkets (crystal canisters, model sailing boats, vintage tins). From sundown onwards a large plant-filled patio fills up with guests from the adjoining hostel, arty folk from across the bridge and party-goers ready to dance into the night. A large bowl of punch on the bar tempts you in with jewels of star fruit, orange slices and star anise. Beers come from Milwaukee to Mexico via Tampa, and mixologists shake up spins on classics – lemongrass caipirinhas, peachy coladas and kaffir lime and anise gimlets. Freehandhotels.com Joe’s Takeaway If you’re heading to Miami, it’s likely you’ll have been recommended Joe’s Stone Crab. The area is famous for the seafood speciality, and this smart restaurant is a Miami Beach institution. It’s very popular and hour-long queues are the norm, so sneak round to the adjacent takeaway counter for stone crab to eat on the beach or in the casual seating area. Other classics include stone crab bisque, lobster reuben and fabulous sides (creamed spinach, house slaw, mac ‘n’ cheese). The key lime pie is also justifiably famous; don’t forget to order a slice for dessert. Joesstonecrab.com Where to stay in South Beach Miami 1 Hotel South Beach – for eco-luxury 1 Hotel has a commitment to the environment, combining ecological initiatives with super-cool design concepts – a huge whale made from natural salvaged goods from the beach guards the lifts, a repurposed clay floor can be fixed without the addition of more materials, and recycled wooden keys add to the beach vibe. Plush rooms are decorated in an earthy palette, with ocean views and huge beds on hewn oak platforms. Amenities are five-star and beyond, with powerful filtered water taps, Nespresso machines, and custom-made bath products to use in large marble tubs and rainfall showers. Not to mention the slick gym and steam room, three pools boasting sea views, and sun loungers on the beach with waiter service. The airy lobby is a natural spectacle, with gnarled wooden tables made from salvaged driftwood, deep canvas sofas in muted tones, and an enormous living wall of local plants. The stone-and-wood lobby bar has a chic beachside feel, and is the place to be at happy hour when guests sip on refreshing lemongrass and ginger caipirinas, citrusy yuzu mules, and negronis, before heading out onto Collins Avenue to revel in South Beach’s nightlife. There are ample options for eating over the large site, too – Habitat is Miami chef Jose Mendin’s Asian-inspired raw bar and grill; Watr at the rooftop combines Japanese and Peruvian flavours for diners beside Miami’s largest rooftop pool; casual Sandbox focuses on Florida produce by the main sea-level pool, and PInthouse puts nourishment in the limelight with cauliflower flatbreads topped with fig and pear, poke bowls with tuna, avocado, ginger and kimchi, and pre-and-post workout smoothies (the gym is next door). 1hotels.com Where to eat and drink in Little Havana Vibrant Little Havana beats its own cafecito-fuelled drum, with live music floating out of bustling bars, fresh seafood, and foodie ventures from dynamic Cuban immigrants. We explore the best Cuban cafés, family-run restaurants and hip third-generation joints along Calle Ocho and beyond. Café La Trova – for Cuban cocktails Cuban mixologist Julio Cabrera and Miami chef Michelle Bernstein offer a slice of Cuban cantinero culture on Calle Ocho. Bartenders dressed in smart, timeless uniforms shake up classic Cuban cocktails – think refreshing daiquiris, mojitos and the iconic rum, pineapple and apricot concoction, Hotel Nacional. There’s live music most evenings, plus snacks such as steak empanadas, lobster croquetas and focaccia lechon sliders. Heartier ‘platos principales’ include crispy whole snapper, seafood stew and classic Cuban steak ropa vieja (translating as ‘old clothes’). Cafelatrova.com Sanguich de Miami – for Cuban sandwiches Hop onto a wooden stool at the counter of this small café to watch a slick production line of toasted sandwiches. Our pick is the classic Cubano, layered with ham, slow-roasted pork, swiss cheese, homemade pickles and mustard; or the pan con lechon, stuffed with slow-roasted pork, pickled mojo onions and coriander aioli. Grab a cafecito shot for a sweet caffeine fix and you have the perfect American-Cuban lunch. Sanguich.com Azucar – for ice cream Little Havana is home to Cuban cafés, retro restaurants and bars brimming with live music, as well as some of the best ice cream in town. This kitsch parlour serves cones loaded with Cuban flavours – think Cuban coffee, coconut flan, guava and sweet plantain. Abuela Maria combines vanilla ice cream with rich cream cheese, jewels of red guava and pieces of sweet galletas Maria (sweet, milky biscuits). Take your cone and eat it while mooching down Calle Ocho, where a star-studded pavement pays tribute to famous Cubans who successfully pursued their American dreams. Azucaricecream.com La Camaronera – for a casual seafood lunch A former fish market turned canteen, this no-frills neighbourhood joint is worth the detour from Calle Ocho. The fried shrimp are famously good, Florida yellowtail snapper sandwich legendary and portions hearty. You can order whole fried fish, local stone crab and even breaded lobster. Service is friendly and interiors are simple, with standing counters that look onto the fryers and cartoons of the restaurant’s history drawn on the sea-blue walls. Lacamaronera.com Where to eat and drink in Wynwood Edgy, graffiti-covered Wynwood is a unique community that allows indie shops, restaurants, bars and cafés to thrive. The character is constantly changing as existing murals are painted over by up-and-coming artists in time for the annual Art Basel festival. We visit the best bakeries, brunch spots and bistros in this colourful neighbourhood. Zak the Baker – for brunch This artisan bakery stands out even in wacky Wynwood, with its curved exterior covered in multi-coloured blocks. Inside it’s a more minimal affair, allowing the bakes and pastries to take the limelight – try pull-apart cinnamon rolls with swirly folds of buttery cinnamon and flaky chocolate babka adorned with ripples of dark chocolate. Brunch options range from simple jam and butter, letting Zak’s squidgy sourdough shine, to doorstep wedges topped with creamy avocado, chilli and feta. The tuna melt sandwich comes with tarragon, cranberries and sharp cheddar, while the salmon reuben, on Jewish rye bread sourdough, is jazzed up with kraut, thousand island dressing and swiss cheese. Zakthebaker.com Alter – for date night tasting menus Chef-owner Bradley Kilgore arrived on the Wynwood restaurant scene in 2015 and quickly established Alter as one of Miami’s go-to destinations for hip gourmands. Industrial interiors remain from the restaurant’s previous life as a warehouse, though it feels cosy thanks to flickering candlelight, friendly servers and the buzz from constantly-filled tables. Chefs play with local ingredients in an open kitchen, creating seasonally-changing tasting menus that kick off with sumac-crusted loaves and umami butter. Subsequent dishes on our visit included bavette beef tartare with mole-cured egg yolk, smooth chicken liver parfait encased in a frilly tart made from a reformed croissant from Zak the Baker, and a fat little quail stuffed with chicken and sage, with hibiscus-pickled onion on top. Alter’s signature dish is a soft-boiled egg in a creamy, briny Gruyère and sea scallop espuma with truffle pearls and chive, served with a wafer-thin Gruyère crisp. Altermiami.com Panther Coffee – for coffee There are surprisingly few speciality coffee shops in Miami, so stop in at one of Panther’s five popular outposts (Miami Beach, Coconut Grove, Little Haiti, MiMo and Wynwood) for a change from Starbucks or Cuban cafecitos. Outside the Wynwood branch, bag a spot in the shade beneath the huge tree, or head inside the chocolate-coloured building and breathe in the smell of coffee being ground and roasted by a machine in the corner. Panthercoffee.com Kush – for burgers This small and lively craft beer and burger joint is a popular hangout for trendy Wynwood locals. It’s often full, so punters spill out onto the sidewalk and into the bar next door (handily stocked with colourful cans of rare craft beers from all over the world, including Wynwood Brewing Company’s own La Rubia American blonde ale). The 18 taps in the bistro proper range from Brooklyn-based Sixpoint the Crisp to local brews such as Funk Buddha Floridian and Twist Trunk Watermelon Saison from Palm Beach Gardens. Burgers from a ranch in Marion County, Florida, are ground in-house and loaded with unique toppings. Try the Johnny Utah (complete with hot pastrami and all the trimmings), a LoKal (served with honey mustard, melted jack cheese and Florida avocado) or the Kush & Hash (added bacon and a fried egg in a waffle bun with maple syrup) - the ultimate breakfast burger. Kushwynwood.com Salty Donut – for an indulgent snack Get your donut fix at this popular camper van turned bricks-and-mortar café. Permanent items on the menu include traditional glazed buttermilk, maple and homemade candied bacon, and a couple of chocolatey numbers, all made using 24-hour brioche. The seasonal specials are where things get really exciting, though. If it’s on the menu, try the likes of Oreo cookie cake donut holes, an old fashioned chocolate cake or a chestnut cookie crumble cannoli. Saltydonut.com Coyo Taco – for a fun casual dinner Stand in line at this funky taco joint to order some of Miami’s freshest Mexican street food. It’s very lively – orders are zipped along a wire to the prep station, and there’s a constant drum of coriander chopping, guacamole smashing and tortilla rolling. There’s a sun-soaked patio out front, and a secret bar in the back. The taco line-up includes local fish with citrus slaw and chipotle aioli, crispy confit duck with serrano salsa, and slow-roasted pork shoulder with achiote and habanero pickled onions. There are cinnamon-coated churros for pud to dip into chocolate, or homemade ice lollies from La Michoacana. Make sure you try a margarita (they were serving a frozen blood orange variety on our visit). Coyo-taco.com KYU – for Asian fusion dinner The iconic KYU Lady mural, created by local artist 2 Alas (check out his moss mural outside nearby Plant the Future), greets guests at the pared-back dining room of this Asian BBQ restaurant. Dishes cooked on a Japanese wood-fired grill include Thai fried rice stone pot with king crab, grilled jumbo tiger prawns with black bean vinaigrette and Korean fried chicken in red chilli butter. Don’t miss the roast cauliflower with goat’s cheese and herb vinaigrette, duck breast burnt ends or Florida snapper ceviche. Asian-inspired cocktails receive just as much attention as the food, and you can choose to dine at the quartz-topped bar to watch mixologists shaking and stirring Wynwood Mules and Shisho Sours. Kyurestaurants.com Ono Poke Shop This funky space is a popular lunch spot, great for a grab-and-go healthy fix. The Hawaiian-Japanese hybrid bowls include fresh tuna with spicy mayo and eel sauce, spicy tuna with crisp tempura, and King salmon with shoyu and wasabi aioli. Colourful toppings add plenty of texture – sweet onions, pickled cucumber, crispy onions and frilly micro greens. You can create your own combination, or you can take pot luck on One Poke’s mystery poke bowl (on offer every Monday night). Onopokeshop.com
10 things we love about Cuban-American cuisine
Luis Gonzalez-Castro, founder of sell-out Cuban-American supper clubs in London, shares what he loves about the food of Little Havana, Miami
Want to learn more about Cuban-American cuisine? Looking for Cuban-American dishes to try? Read our guide below, then Luis' recipe for Cuban boca de principe, a cake topped with custard and dusted with cinnamon. We also have guides to Floridian cuisine and Venezuelan cuisine. Luis Gonzalez-Castro was born in Puerto Rico but his family relocated to Little Havana when he was seven. In vibrant Little Havana, Luis’s father owned a small bakery, kick-starting Luis’s life-long passion for food. Luis affectionately called his beloved grandmother Cuca, and she is the inspiration behind his regular Cuban-American supper clubs across London. For more details, see @cocinacuca on Instagram. We also have our podcast episode where Luis shares the 10 things you need to know about Cuban food and Colombian cuisine. Listen to Luis Gonzalez Castro share 10 things you need to know about Cuban food and cooking, including the melting pot of influences on the cuisine, why a lot of Cuban dishes are named after celebrities and the secret to the perfect cafecito coffee. View oEmbed on the source website 1. Pastelitos Pastelitos (pastries) can’t be missed. Found on every corner bakery across Little Havana, you will see them beautifully laid out behind a glass counter. It’s almost as though they are being shown off with true Cuban pride. Getting there early is key so you get them straight out of the oven. You order a café con leche and at least two or three types of pastelito. Fillings include guava with cream cheese, pulled chicken or picadillo (beef mince). 2. Cuban cafecito Small in size but big on Cuban tradition. The cafecito is a sweetened espresso shot, but what makes a Cuban coffee so unique is the espumita you make to go on top. This is literally whipped sugar made with the first spurt of coffee from the machine. I’m a huge fan of Café Bustelo, which was and still is the coffee of choice for my family. Making the espumita was a ritual that I loved taking part in as a kid because it meant I could stay up longer with the grown-ups. When you vigorously whip the sugar and coffee together until the paste is light in colour, and then stir a spoonful into your tacita (small cup) the result is sensational: a rich and sweet boost of energy for day or night. 3. Tres leches cake In short, what a dessert showstopper. This beautifully light, fluffy sponge drenched with three different kinds of milk (and sometimes coconut or spiced rum, depending on how adventurous you’re feeling) and topped with whipped vanilla pod cream is just wow, and was always my childhood favourite – and a top choice in every restaurant and cafeteria in Little Havana. The trick to success is folding your cake mix, rather than beating it. Dangerously addictive. 4. Ropa vieja Literally meaning ‘old clothes’ due to its long, shredded fibres, this is the national dish of Cuba and served in every restaurant in Little Havana. With its fragrant, smoky, aromatic mixture of tender, melt-in-the-mouth pulled beef, olives and other rich flavours, it’s no surprise. It takes a while to cook down, so make sure you can have time for a relaxed cooking session when you make this (see Luis's recipe for rope vieja). At our supper clubs we make it the day before, then let it rest overnight before gently cooking it again the next day. We serve it with rice speckled with black beans, called moros y cristianos, a traditional and historical rice dish brought to Cuba from Spain. 5. The Cuban sandwich The sandwich – or, as we say in Miami, sanguich – is a Little Havana classic. Any restaurant or café you go to will serve different types of sandwiches but my favourites include the medianoche – a delicious combination of roast pork, ham, mustard, melted swiss cheese and sweet pickle in a brioche-style bread – and the Cubano, made with the same ingredients but on a crisp Cuban loaf. And I can’t leave out the unique Elena Ruz, grilled turkey breast served in a sweet bun with cream cheese and strawberry jam. These are never a light lunch but then, in Little Havana, there is never a time for a light lunch. 6. Mariquitas con mojo These moreish deep-fried plantain crisps studded with salt and dipped in mojo are a Cuban snacking staple. They kick off most meals across Miami where they originate from and, when dipped in the lemon juice, olive oil, garlic and salt mixture, are a taste bud tingler. There’s this satisfying feeling I get slicing them and seeing these gorgeous, long, golden and crisp curls come out. They’re a bit like British salt and vinegar – a classic combination. 7. Mofongo Traditionally from Puerto Rico, mofongo is deeply comforting and very versatile. There’s an excitement as it arrives (served inside a wooden pilón, a pestle and mortar) at your table, often served with a side of crispy pork. It is made by mashing together fried green plantains with salt, crushed garlic, chicken stock and olive oil in a mortar. An all-time favourite of mine. 8. Arroz imperial This traditional dish is also known as a Cuban lasagne, and it forms the centrepiece of any formal Cuban party. It is carefully made with layers of beer-cooked rice, cheese and pulled chicken, which has been gently poached in sherry, spices and good quality chicken stock. The result is something that guests say is ‘ridiculously good’ – you’ll always want a second slice. 9. Daiquiris This elegant rum-based Cuban-born cocktail was Ernest Hemingway’s drink of choice and, in Miami, you’ll find it served in several ways. Its simple yet fresh, fruity flavours have made this drink one of the most requested and well-known cocktails across Miami and indeed the USA. At Cuca, we have a few daiquiri-based creations, each with a unique flavour and story. Try olive' frozen strawberry daiquiri. 10. Jugos Fruit in Miami grows very big, with vibrant colours and abundant juice (jugos). When I was little, we’d always head for El Palacio de los Jugos, a brightly lit restaurant in Little Havana (and now throughout Miami) serving up traditional Cuban food in a kind of fast-casual setting. But it is the juice that brings back locals time and again. With unique tropical fruits such as mamey, guava, papaya, tamarind and the better-known fruits including watermelon, coconut, mango, orange, grapefruit and pineapple, you have plenty of choice. When it’s more than 30 degrees outside, one of these is the only remedy you need. 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10 things we love about Barbados's cuisine
David Carter, chef and founder of Smokestak in London, tells us what makes the food of Barbados so special
Want to learn about Barbados's cuisine and Bajan food? Take a virtual trip to this Caribbean island with David Carter, chef and founder of Smokestak in London. Check out this recipe for Bajan chicken here, then try our best ever Caribbean food recipes and guide to Cuban-American cuisine. Smokestak’s homage to US-style barbecue has attracted a dedicated following, with diners flocking to the Shoreditch restaurant for dishes such as crispy ox cheek with anchovy mayo, and cult brisket buns. Founder David Carter’s roots, however, lie in Barbados, where the likes of rum shops and fish-frys, pepper sauce and salt fish cakes define the island’s food scene. Barbados's cuisine 1) Grilled mahi mahi The best is at Oistins – a local fish market by day, fish-fry/grill by night. It has fast become one of the islands most famed hot spots, especially on a Friday night. Locals and tourist alike converge in masses to take in the atmosphere. Expect big open grills, picnic trestle tables, open-air market vibes, and hearty portions. Beyond the food, there are street hawkers selling local crafts, steel-pan drums and karaoke. Mahi mahi, known locally as dolphin, is a local meaty white fish. It takes to the grills particularly well. Undeniably, my death row meal. 2) Rum shops A rum shop to Barbados is what a pub is to England, but a very dressed-down version. It’s part of our culture. There is no beer on tap, only bottled. There is no 25ml pour of spirit, nor 50ml. There are no pours, period. Bottles of liquor only. A rum shop is a glorified off licence with picnic tables out front covered by rusting corrugated sheets. You buy your bottle of liquor, buy a mixer (if you choose), politely ask for a bucket of ice, are given a cup and on your way you go. More established rum shops tend to extend and build on kitchens. These are not restaurants but aunties and grannies cooking straight from the heart. One of the more famed rum shops of our time is Lemon Arbour located in St John. Soul food at its best, it attracts people of every age and from all walks of life. It would not be uncommon to see the prime minister sitting alongside toilers of the land shooting the breeze. Expect fried chicken, baked pork, stewed oxtail, grilled fish, rice and peas, macaroni pie, plantain, barbecue pigtails and breadfruit among the many menu delights. 3) Crop Over Festival/Kadooment Our local carnival. Historically, it is a celebration to mark the end of the sugarcane harvest and season, hence the name Crop Over. It is celebrated on the first Monday in August where we take to the streets to masquerade and conga-line in full-blown costume right through Bridgetown ending up on Spring Garden highway. Streets are lined with food hawkers and the island comes alive. I still hold many a fond memory of eating pickled seacat (octopus) and roast breadfruit roadside. 4) Pudding and souse A traditional Saturday staple lunch for many a local. It’s a dish with roots back to slavery when the offcuts and less favourable parts of the pig were given to the slaves. Taking ingredients from the land, they used local sweet potato (the flesh is whiter in colour and it is much starchier than orange sweet potato) and made a blood pudding of sorts. The sweet potato is mixed with pig blood, scotch bonnet chillies, chives, thyme, marjoram, cloves and other spices, before being stuffed into pig intestines and steamed. The souse is pickled pork off-cuts, essentially – pig ear, tail, trotters, snout. The pork is boiled and mixed with more scotch bonnet chillies, lime and finely chopped cucumber. In recent years the dish has become gentrified, substituting a brown colouring for pig’s blood and it is seldom seen stuffed in intestine. More commonly, and much less labour-intensively, it is seen in a mash format and the souse now uses any cut of pork, including prime cuts. 5) Fish cutter A pan-fried piece of swordfish, heavily marinated in bajan seasoning and served in salt bread (a local bap). Made fresh and served hot – I could live on this. The best on the island is from Cuzz – a fish stand/shack located on Pebbles Beach. It’s a national treasure serving one dish, a fish ‘cutter’. 6) Bajan pepper sauce Scotch bonnet, the key ingredient here, is my favourite hot chilli pepper because it adds a fruitiness and sweetness versus just heat. The local version is balanced with mustard and vinegar along with aromatics such as onion, garlic and turmeric. 7) Rum punch Our national drink. And if it isn’t, it should be. The rhyme goes: one of sour (fresh lime juice), two of sweet (sugar), three of strong (dark rum), four of weak (water). Once upon a time, the main industry in Barbados was sugar cane. Tourism has since taken over but much of the arable land is still used for sugar cane production. The two most common derivatives are brown sugar and rum. The precise measurements on the above recipe are varied as are the precise ingredients when it comes to rum punch. Four of weak is generally made up in part water, part crushed ice – year-round temperatures of 30C generally melt the latter rather quickly. The selection of dark rums used is vast. While demerara sugar is mostly used, sugar syrup, falernum and dark brown sugar are not uncommon. The final punch can be spiked with Angostura bitters, shaved nutmeg and any number of local juices. Every mum thinks hers is the best and well, quite frankly, my mum’s is the best. Top tip: make the punch in advance and store it in the freezer for an icy-slushy finish. Serve with plenty of ice. 8) Winter sun This season is the most celebrated time of year to visit the island. A welcome escape from dark, dreary UK winters, it is the polar opposite in weather. Expect bright sunshine and mild temperatures of 25-30C with a cool breeze. It is ever so slightly cooler than summer, which can be sweltering. Conversely, autumn is regarded as the wet/hurricane season, even though Barbados has been very blessed without major incident since 1955. Still, the weather can be wetter than normal. And any tropical storm activity in the Caribbean region can draw all the breeze out of the atmosphere making it hot, humid and sticky. 9) Bajan seasoning Delicate, refined flavours are not the reason you visit Barbados. A piece of a lightly seasoned fish, caught straight off the boat, will never make it on the grill on its own. A cardinal sin by many international chef standards, who celebrate and champion a single ingredient. In Barbados, it has to be ‘seasoned’ (which means marinated in the UK) or ‘juked’ where incisions are made in the fish or meat and bajan seasoning is stuffed inside, especially on larger cuts like whole chickens or legs of pork. Much like rum punch, the recipes are varied, but the common denominator is that you use ingredients of the land and ones which are local to Barbados. The flavours are bold and pungent but equally delicious. Fish, chicken and pork alike get this treatment, even beef and lamb. It’s a religion. 10) Salt fish cakes Croquettes, essentially. Salted cod was first brought here from the British Isles. Pungent in its own right, it is blended with flour, scotch bonnet chillies and local herbs to balance out the salted fish before being deep-fried. The resulting salt fish cakes should be golden crispy on the outside, pillowy soft inside.
This Caribbean island has married diverse foods from across the globe to forge its own culinary identity
Want to learn about Jamaican food? Looking for Jamaican recipes? Read Craig and Shaun McAnuff's guide, then check out our guide to Cuban-American cuisine. Now find out 10 things we love about Jamaican cuisine. Craig and Shaun McAnuff are brothers from south London who share recipe ideas @originalflava_. They were taught to cook traditional Caribbean recipes by their beloved nan, who grew up in Jamaica. Their cookbook, Original Flava: Caribbean Recipes From Home, is out now (£20, Bloomsbury). Jamaican cuisine Eating out on this Caribbean island means experiencing a sense of togetherness, fun and flavour, and savouring the generous slice of history that comes with so many of the island’s dishes. Take the Jamaican patty, for instance – a culinary mash-up of the Cornish pasty, Indian curry spices and indigenous fiery scotch bonnet peppers. Or the island’s most famous export, its beloved jerk chicken, goat and pork, thought to be a mix of indigenous Taíno cooking methods (barbecuing meat slowly over the wood of the island’s allspice trees) and spicing (hot peppers, allspice berries, thyme and ginger) bestowed by African slaves. Ackee, originally from West Africa, forms the national dish when boiled and sautéed along with saltfish, onions, scotch bonnet peppers and tomatoes. Breadfruit, a savoury fruit brought to the Caribbean from the South Pacific by Captain Bligh, is used in lots of side dishes, as is plantain, the starchy cousin of the banana, which was introduced to the region from Southeast Asia by Spanish explorers. The island is also known for its high-quality ginger, another Southeast Asian adoption. And for its Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee, Arabica Typica imported from Martinique in the 1700s. Jamaican cooking tends to be fresh and simple. In addition to the bountiful seas that surround it, the island’s tropical climate lends itself to growing a range of produce and many people grow much of what they eat in small kitchen gardens and abide by a policy of thrift – Saturday soup is an institution, usually made in the morning then shared with anyone who might visit. For a food culture that’s primarily known for its grilled and stewed meat dishes, there is one exception to the rule: the Rastafari movement began in Jamaica in the 1930s and its followers embrace ital (natural, often organic and vegetarian) foods. Jamaican recipe: traditional rum punch What to eat in Jamaica Beef patties The Jamaican beef patty is an institution and not to be missed. Made with a crunchy, flaky pastry that contains turmeric to give it Caribbean kick and colour, it’s filled with a rich, spicy minced beef filling. It’s often eaten stuffed inside soft coco bread as a hefty sandwich. Curry goat The GOAT (aka the ‘Greatest Of All Tastes’ for many Caribbean food lovers) is one of the most iconic Caribbean dishes, truly soul-satisfying. Some people like it with rice and peas but others believe it should only be served with white rice. Try olive's version of a goat curry. Roast seafood mix Conch, a local delicacy, similar to crab or lobster, is a local shellfish. Roasted, grilled or boiled, then stewed or baked in foil with a mixture of vegetables, it’s really tasty. If you want to recreate it in the UK, try using scallops. Plantain pancakes Make sure you use ripe plantains for these American-style pancakes – the riper the plantain the sweeter the pancake will be. All sorts of toppings are possible but it’s hard to beat sticky maple syrup and fried plantain. Ackee and saltfish Jamaica’s national dish, it’s usually eaten in the morning but is delicious at any time of day. Ackee – which has a texture similar to scrambled eggs – is available in UK shops in tins but in Jamaica it’s picked fresh from the trees when ripe (if it’s not ripe it can be poisonous). Find recipes for the above dishes in Shaun and Craig's cookbook, Original Flava: Caribbean Recipes From Home, out now (£20, Bloomsbury). Photographs by Matt Russell.
Brooklyn, New York foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
Williamsburg foodies are venturing past its iconic brewery to Brooklyn’s northernmost neighbourhood, Greenpoint, bordered by the East River’s Newton Creek. Trendy bistros and bars have popped up here beside traditional grocery stores and bakeries run by the area’s Polish and Jewish communities
Looking for pizza restaurants in Brooklyn? Want to find the best bars in Greenpoint? Check out the best places to eat and drink in Williamsburg, Greenpoint, Bushwick and beyond, from pizza and ramen joints to bagel shops and intimate bistros. Once Manhattan’s poor neighbour, famed for its Italian restaurants, Brooklyn’s restaurant scene these days is less one-trick pony, more Champion the wonder horse of culinary and cultural cross-pollination. (You can check out our guide to where to eat in Manhattan here) Where to eat and drink in Williamsburg, Brooklyn Williamsburg is Brooklyn’s chicest neighbourhood and close to the flag-flying summit of its culinary heights. Okonomi /Yuji ramen – for ramen This dinky spot, on a leafy residential road in Williamsburg, is home to just a handful of tables plus four seats at a wooden counter. Grab a spot in the evenings to watch chefs in the open kitchen prepare pickled vegetables, clam lips with mustard miso and spicy seafood ramen topped with dancing katsuobushi flakes. Ingredients change daily and soups showcase lesser-known fish varieties such as madai seabream sashimi, roast perch or monkfish liver. During the day, Okonomi serves Japanese set meals of rice, miso soup, fish, veg and an egg. There’s no menu, just choose how you want your fish-of-the-day cooked – salt-roast, dry kelp-cured or glazed in sweet miso. okonomibk.com/yuji-ramen Nick and Sons Bakery – for cinnamon rolls Nick Heavican’s minimal shop and open-plan working bakery is dominated by a counter piled with bakes of the day (think cranberry and orange zest scones, rosemary sourdough, trays of focaccia, cardamom-laced pain-au-raisins and za’atar croissants). The cinnamon rolls are legendary – huge, icing sugar-coated swirls, reminiscent of those served at Braud og Co in Reykjavik (Nick took his inspiration from charismatic Icelandic baker Gusti (link to feature)). For lunch, try croissants filled with pork shoulder and cheddar or sourdough sarnies stuffed with pastrami. nickandsonsbakery.com Amor y Amargo – for aperitifs Slouch at the marble bar of this fun hangout and peruse bottles of bitters, vermouth and amaro. Cocktails are stirred, not shaken, and there are no mixers, just pure, punchy, bitter drinks. Try the refreshing grapefruit-led Di Pompelmo with a dash of tequila, or the smoky Renaissance Man. The bar’s speciality is the 8 Amaro Sazerac, featuring the house Amari blend (a mixture of no fewer than eight different types). amoryamargony.com Lilia – for Italian food Chef Missy Robbins’ Lilia restaurant is one of the hottest tables in town. Try the sheep’s milk cheese-filled agnolotti with honey, saffron and dried tomatoes and you’ll understand why. lilianewyork.com Brooklyn Winery – for wine Brian Leventhal and John Stires gave up lucrative day jobs to found a winery in an old dairy in Williamsburg and it’s doing so well they’re expanding, opening another near Washington DC. Not many grapes grow in New York but with the help of winemaker Conor McCormack they source grapes from across the States. You can book a tour and enjoy a tasting in the wine bar with its tables and chairs made from old church pews. bkwinery.com Smorgasburg – for market vibes Williamsburg is full of markets, from Mccarren Park Farmers’ Market to Smorgasburg, a Saturday waterfront fixture with food stalls selling everything from doughnuts to oysters, New Orleans po’ boys to popcorn. Gourmet stores range from the Bedford Cheese Shop to Mast Brothers, which offers factory tours and chocolate tastings (don’t miss the goat’s milk flavour), and Zen-like tea emporium Puerh Brooklyn, which stocks 70 hand-picked teas and exquisite teaware. brooklynflea.com Where to eat and drink in Greenpoint, Brooklyn Williamsburg foodies are venturing past its iconic brewery to Brooklyn’s northernmost neighbourhood, Greenpoint, bordered by the East River’s Newton Creek. Trendy bistros and bars have popped up here beside traditional grocery stores and bakeries run by the area’s Polish and Jewish communities. Frankels – for bagels Head to this contemporary take on a New York-style deli to try a toasted, hand-rolled poppy seed bagel filled with smoked salmon, punchy horseradish beets, dill and cream cheese. Other recommended eats include a hot pastrami rye sandwich and Anita’s braised brisket on griddled challah bread. frankelsdelicatessen.com Chez ma Tante – for neighbourhood vibes White-washed brick walls, dark wood furniture and flickering candles set the tone at this intimate neighbourhood joint in the heart of Greenpoint. The seasonal menu of European dishes rotates between the likes of fennel sausage with butter beans and chanterelles, stracciatella cheese with marinated kale and anchovy crumble, and trout tartare with creamy oyster Pernod sauce. There’s classic lemon tart for pud, as well as maple crème brûlée and seasonal sorbets. The succinct wine list includes sparkling rosé from Greece, Oregon orange, and a wide range of French wines, from Jura whites to Burgundy reds. chezmatantenyc.com Peter Pan Donut and Pastry Shop – for donuts Make a beeline for this Greenpoint stalwart for its chocolate-frosted rings and cream-filled donuts. Flavours of the day are displayed until they run out – try gingerbread crullers, Bavarian cream fillings and strawberry ice-cream donut sandwiches. Linger at the counter with a coffee or take away to eat while you mooch around Transmitter Park, with its jaw-dropping views over the East River to Manhattan. peterpandonuts.com Paulie Gee’s – for pizza This creative pizza restaurant has been a must-visit for years, in no small part for its trademarked Hellboy pizza ‘pie’ topped with spicy soppressata salami and chilli-infused honey. Newer to the area is Paulie Gee’s slice shop, a couple of streets away, serving Neapolitan-style pizzas in a casual, contemporary environment (they’re also available to take away). pauliegee.com Achilles Heel – for cocktails In winter, soak up cosy vibes by the fire at Achilles Heel cocktail bar. Order a ‘hotter toddy’, a warming concoction of bourbon, apple brandy, walnut and ginger, or for something more refreshing, a Psychic Sand’s mezcal, crème de cacao, citrus and honey combo. Pop in at lunchtime for a loaded porchetta sandwich with fermented cayenne aioli, pickled onions and a fried egg on She Wolf Bakery pizza bread. achillesheelnyc.com Glasserie – for Middle Eastern small plates For date-night vibes, book a table at this buzzy Middle Eastern bistro and try fried cauliflower with caper yogurt, chicken with roast apples and kale, and pine nut-studded lamb sausages. glasserienyc.com Where to stay in Williamsburg – The Hoxton This slick hotel on the Williamsburg/Greenpoint border sits metres away from the iconic Brooklyn Brewery. Sip hoppy, amber-gold lager in its stylish lobby lounge and restaurant, Kleins, or head up to the rooftop bar, Summerly, in the warmer months to soak up Brooklyn vibes over a cocktail and a plate of fresh seafood. Book a room on the Manhattan side for uninterrupted views of the New York skyline. Doubles from £159, check availability at booking.com Where to eat and drink in Bushwick, Brooklyn Ballsy Bushwick – one of Brooklyn's up-and-coming areas – is peppered with gourmet pitstops. Roberta's – for pizza Behind Roberta’s graffitied walls is a joint with attitude and one mean pizza oven. Tuck into Roberta’s ‘Famous Original’ the crispy base smeared with rich tomato, creamy mozzarella, caciocavallo, parmigiano, chilli flakes and oregano. robertaspizza.com Hops and Hocks – for craft beer This is a craft beer store, growler filling station (a growler is a reusable beer bottle or flagon) and charcuterie with gourmet sandwiches to go and beer, cold-brew coffee and kombucha on tap. hopsandhocks.com Where to eat in Downtown Brooklyn Ample Hills Creamery – for ice cream Head to Ample Hills Creamer for ice cream in a pretzel-, gluten-free-, chocolate chip- or M&M-cone. Try ‘It Came From Gowanus’, the saltiest chocolatiest, most orange-scented, brownie- and hazelnut-packed ice cream. If you need a reason to traipse across the bridge to Brooklyn, here it is. amplehills.com Museum of Food and Drink – for a spot of culture It’s no accident that the Museum of Food and Drink is based in Brooklyn. What started life as a nomadic exhibition travelling around New York with a cereal-puffing machine to educate the public about contemporary food issues found its permanent home in an old warehouse in Williamsburg at the end of 2015. “There are so many established food cultures here, from Italian restaurants to Polish to Dominican,” founder Peter Kim explains. “Brooklyn is a microcosm of New York.” mofad.org Written by Alex Crossley and Lucy Gillmore
New York foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
From bagels laden with smoked salmon at Manhattan Jewish delis to bloody marys pepped up with homemade lemon vodka in the East Village, these are the best places to eat and drink in the city that never sleeps
Looking for the best New York deli? Want to know the best restaurants in Manhattan? New York City local author and recipe writer Alison Roman shares her favourite foodie spots in the city. Listen to our podcast with Alison Roman here about about how she became an internationally acclaimed recipe writer and cookbook author: View oEmbed on the source website Where to eat and drink in Manhattan Russ & Daughters – for pumpernickel bagels and smoked fish One of the most iconic spots in town, Russ & Daughters has been a champion of Jewish food in America for more than 100 years. Immigrant Joel Russ kick-started the empire in 1907 by selling herring from a barrel, eventually working his way up to a bricks-and-mortar store. The business is still in the family, and it’s great to sit at the counter for a breakfast of lots of smoked fish – including yellowfin tuna, sturgeon and chubs – and black coffee. There are also seven types of smoked salmon to try, even more varieties of herring (try rollmops or fillets in curry sauce), pumpernickel bagels baked in-house, and cinnamon babka. Joel’s great-grandchildren, Josh and Niki Russ, opened sibling business, the Russ & Daughters Café, on Orchard Street in 2014 – head there for whitefish croquettes, matzo ball soup, baked kippers and a Lower East Side cocktail (gin, dill, lime and cucumber). russanddaughters.com Café Altro Paradiso – for classic New York vibes If you’re after fun, classic New York restaurant vibes, make your way to Café Altro Paradiso. It's not very old (it launched on Spring Street in 2016), but it feels like this Italian restaurant has been around for years. It's open for lunch and dinner, and has the best lighting in town – plus a shiny brass bar and huge windows that offer a view of Hudson Square. The pasta is incredible, including simple classics such as pasta pomodoro, but for lunch try the chicken milanese. They serve it with a little dish of mustard for dipping, plus rocket leaves and pine nuts, and it's perfect with a glass of wine, picked from a menu that focuses on natural and small Italian producers. altroparadiso.com Grand Central Oyster Bar – for shellfish If you happen to find yourself in Midtown make the most of it by treating yourself to a plate of oysters and clams. Grand Central Oyster Bar, established in 1913 on the lower level of Grand Central Terminal, is about as old-school New York as it gets. With a capacity for more than 400 diners, it's wonderfully loud and crowded, and elegant marble columns and an illuminated tiled ceiling make it an atmospheric place to spend an evening. The oysters – there are more than 20 American types to choose from, including those from Rhode Island and Maine – are super-fresh, but if you don’t like shellfish try fried coconut jumbo shrimp, smoked Idaho rainbow trout, or barbecued swordfish instead. There’s old-fashioned pumpkin pie and classic New York cheesecake for dessert, too. oysterbarny.com Sardi’s – for stiff martinis served by bow-tied waiters The theatre district is touristy and packed with people but if you’re there to see a Broadway show it’s worth staying on to check out the area’s classic restaurants, and watch waiters in bow ties make very stiff martinis. Sardi’s, on West Street, counts Kevin Bacon, Whoopi Gholdberg and Lucille Ball among its fans, and is the place to go for post-Broadway pigs in blankets, jumbo crab cakes and cannelloni au gratin. sardis.com Where to eat and drink in Brooklyn Sahadi’s – for Middle Eastern grocery shopping The staff at Sahadi's Middle Eastern market are the best and it stocks almost every single pantry item you could think of. It’s the place to go for hot pepper paste, cardamom tea, pistachio butter, truffle burrata, natural rose water, guava juice, fresh baba ganoush, baby octopus, dark chocolate pretzel nuggets…the list is endless. The original store is on Atlantic Avenue, but another, more modern, branch has recently opened in Industry City. sahadis.com Where to eat and drink in Queens Szechuan House – for spicy Sichuan hot pot If you love spicy food, you’ll love Sichuan food, especially spicy Sichuan hot pot. There are great hot pot spots all around NYC, but some of the best are in the Flushing neighbourhood. Try Szechuan House, open since 1985, for everything from sour cabbage fish hot pot to tomato hot pot and lobster hot pot. szechuanhouseflushing.com Where to eat and drink in the East Village Prune – for bistro dining Open since 1999, this New York restaurant is still going strong to this day. Chef and owner Gabrielle Hamilton introduced locals to the delights of sweet butter and radishes (found on the bar snacks menu) and other bar nibbles, including fried anchovies with aioli, and roast-your-own Turkish ‘disco’ pistachios, which are doused in anise-flavoured brandy and set on fire at the table. Separate lunch and dinner menus typically include gems such as swiss chard and leek gratin, lamb neck stew with green sauce zhug, and, for dessert, fresh fig clafoutis. Check out the dedicated bloody mary menu, too – the Mariner is a blend of homemade lemon vodka, clam juice and olives. prunerestaurant.com Where to eat and drink in the West Village Via Carota – for Italian comfort food It’s almost impossible to get a table at Via Carota, a walk-in-only Italian restaurant on Grove Street. Every New Yorker and every tourist wants to eat there. A tip for success: arrive as close to 5pm or 5:30pm as possible, and eat at the bar. The service is better, the vibe is perfect and you can people-watch as the dining room fills up. Waiters in cream-coloured jackets deliver negronis, svizzerina (salt-crusted chopped rare steak, served with tender cloves of roast garlic), charred artichokes, and, best of all, incredibly rich and cheesy cacio e pepe. viacarota.com Photographs by Alison Roman and Getty Images
Foodie guide to Nashville: where locals eat and drink
It might be known as Music City but Tennessee’s capital has other strings to its bow, including a food scene big on spicy fried chicken, scallop crudo and caramel clusters
Looking for restaurants in Nashville? Want to know where to eat the in the Tennessee city? Local food writer Jennifer Justus shares her insider tips for the best restaurants in Nashville, along with where to find the best fried chicken, seafood and cocktails. Best Pennsylvania Dutch cooking in Nashville – Josephine Josephine on the 12th (the name is a reference to its location) is a small restaurant combining Southern hospitality with Pennsylvania Dutch cooking. Perch at the bar and order a Mochi-San cocktail made with Roku Japanese gin, Lillet Blanc, suze, grapefruit, lemon and thyme before tucking into cornbread with cultured butter and sea salt. With chef Andy Little at the kitchen’s helm larger dishes are split into ‘vegetables’ and ‘meat and fish’ (think buffalo cauliflower served with celery and blue cheese, or duck leg confit with corn and kale). Comfort food reigns when it comes to desserts, from warm oatmeal raisin cookies to chocolate peanut butter cake. Pop by on the weekend for a lazy brunch of cinnamon sugar doughnuts with apple cider caramel or fried bologna with sunny egg and American cheese. Best fried chicken in Nashville – Bolton’s Spicy Chicken & Fish Some Nashville hot chicken joints are as famous as the town’s country stars, and deservedly so. But Bolton’s Spicy Chicken & Fish is a more laid-back locals’ favourite. Order a plate of cayenne-spiced fried chicken on white bread or a slab of hot fish scattered with mustard, onion and pickles. Best burgers in Nashville – Butcher & Bee As well as superior burgers and sandwiches (fried avo, trout melt, grilled cauli with harissa) and a bounty of locally grown ingredients, Butcher & Bee is also known for its mezze dishes – try the turnip cacio e pepe, or the grilled radish with green tahini and shallot butter. Best food market in Nashville – Azadi International Food Market Surprising but true: Nashville is home to the largest Kurdish population in the United States. Drive down Nolesville Pike and you’ll find markets like Azadi International Food Market brimming with dates, lentils and pistachios, and the scent of freshly baked flatbreads wafting from their in-store bakeries. 391 Elysian Fields Ct (00 1 615 315 0940) Best cocktails in Nashville – Black Rabbit Velvet, leather and exposed brickwork tip a hat to neighbouring Printers Alley, and its associations with printing presses, gambling and drinking. Straddling the line between bar and restaurant, Black Rabbit serves craft cocktails and small plates including rabbit rolls – buns stuffed with rabbit terrine, mustard and poppy seeds. Best doughnuts in Nashville – Five Daughters Bakery Owned and run by Isaac and Stephanie Meek, along with their five daughters, family-run Five Daughters Bakery has seven sites across the South. Best known for its croissant-style, 100-layer doughnuts, the flavours range from chocolate sea salt to maple glaze, with seasonal specials available each month (think huckleberry or pumpkin chocolate cheesecake). If you're not a pastry lover, tuck into chewy ginger molasses - or classic chocolate chip - cookies. Best cosy restaurant in Nashville – Treehouse A former home in East Nashville, Treehouse has a warm, dinner-party vibe, with a fairy-light-strewn bar and rustic seating. Chef Jason Zygmont turns out Insta-worthy dishes: think scallop crudo in a dainty moat of spiced pork broth with jerusalem artichokes and nasturtiums. Best chocolate shop in Nashville – Goo Goo Cluster Howell Campbell created the iconic Goo Goo Cluster – a nougat, caramel, peanut and chocolate cluster – in 1912. At the Goo Goo Cluster shop you can buy various varieties, or make your own in one of the store’s chocolate classes. Best bakery in Nashville – Dozen Bakery What began life as a pop-up has blossomed into a bricks-and-mortar bakery and café, the Dozen Bakery. Fill up on buttery croissants, madeleines and scones, or grab a baguette and a barley salad, zesty with lime and the crunch of greens and crushed peanuts. Best seafood in Nashville – Henrietta Red Peek in the kitchen at hot new dining spot Henrietta Red and you’ll find chef Julia Sullivan and her mostly female team calmly turning out on-point plates of wood-roasted oysters, or trout with white beans, rocket and dill vinaigrette, to a buzzy crowd. Best distillery in Nashville – Green Brier Distillery Think Tennessee whiskey and Jack Daniel’s probably comes to mind. But before Prohibition, Green Brier Distillery sold more of the hard stuff than Jack. Brothers Charles and Andy Nelson revived the family business in 2009 and tell their family’s American Dream story over tastings on their distillery tours. HOW TO GET TO NASHVILLE British Airways launches direct flights from Heathrow to Nashville in May 2018. Return fares will start from £641 (ba.com). WHERE TO STAY IN NASHVILLE Double rooms at the sleek Noelle hotel cost from $232 per night, room only (noelle-nashville.com). More info: visitmusiccity.com TRUST OLIVE Nashville-based writer Jennifer Justus is the author of Nashville Eats – a collection of stories and recipes from Music City. She also leads tours for Walk Eat Nashville (jenniferjustuswrites.com). Photographs by Sam Angel, Christen Clemins, Getty