This thriving city is now a must visit for foodies across the country, and the perfect choice for a long weekend away
Looking for Bristol restaurants? Check out the best places to eat in Bristol, including cafés, bars and restaurants. Here you'll find local beers and interesting wines, lively bars and buzzy cafés. Check out our local food and drink guide to Bristol... For more exciting restaurants and weekend ideas for food lovers, check out our best UK city breaks and the UK's best artisan bakeries. Also read our city guides to the best restaurants in Bath, best restaurants in Cardiff, best restaurants in York and best restaurants in Oxford. Jump to: Best places to eat and drink in Bristol Best cafés in Bristol Best food and drink shops in Bristol Foodie neighbourhood in Bristol Where to stay in Bristol Best places to eat and drink in Bristol Marmo For modern European food and wine Marmo is one of Bristol’s most special dining experiences. It sits on bustling Baldwin Street – inside are high ceilings, an open kitchen and a buzzy, inviting atmosphere. It has an extremely pleasing menu taking influence from Italy, and an exceptional organic/biodynamic wine list. Marmo is headed by couple Cosmo and Lily Sterck. Cosmo is ex St John and Brawn, and Lily worked front of house at Luca in their London days. The menu reads really well to a point that it’s hard to know what to order for fear of missing out. Simple Italian ingredients are given the best treatment. There’s plates of lightly fried gnocco fritto and salame rosa, perfectly pickled, crunchy vegetables and bobby beans tossed with white peaches and a pine nut cream. A fresh pasta dish is always available and the famous steak tartar always graces the menu. The staff are well versed in both wine and food so you feel in good hands. If you order any dessert make sure you get at least one chocolate mousse for the table – it’s perfectly set with a blanket of lightly whipped cream strewn over it. It’ll be the ideal end to what’s likely to be a flawless meal. marmo.restaurant Farro, Bristol For pastries and sourdough Farro is certainly Bristol’s best bakery. In fact, it’s renowned as one of the best in the country. Because of this you may be faced with a queue on weekends but don't let this deter you. The queues move fast and the cabinets are well stocked. Sitting comfortably in central Bristol, it’s a slick, small establishment but with limited seating so be ready with an empty tote bag for pastries and sourdough, and a free hand for takeaway coffee. There are classic French pastries from golden pain au chocolat to a classic croissant. The perfectly sweet and heavily vanilla-scented canelé de Bordeaux is the best we’ve tried outside of France. There's savoury scones packed with cheese and rosemary, seasonal fruit galettes (like strawberry and elderflower in the summer) and if you go on the right day you’ll find trays of custardy pastel de nata. Don't leave without a loaf of sourdough, and the dense and nutty rye bread is also excellent. The menu is seasonal so changes regularly but whatever’s on offer is never far off pastry perfection. farro.co.uk Root For veg-led dining Long standing favourite Root (opened in 2017) is known for its modern, small plate, vegetable-led dishes. It sings of seasonality, with just a few meat and fish dishes of the highest quality gracing the menu. Unsurprising that this place had earned such accolades when it’s owned by renowned chef Josh Eggleton (The Pony Chew Valley). Start with a seasonal cocktail like a gooseberry and elderflower martini or an apricot whisky highball. Root has a real skill at making humble veg the star of the show with a menu that boasts mouth-watering dishes such as a hispi cabbage caesar salad, crispy Cornish potatoes with curried butter, pizzettas with caramelised onions and Cotswold brie, and smoked Cornish monkfish with tahini, yogurt and pickled red cabbage. What’s great about Root is its extensive use of British ingredients, championing some of the country’s best producers. This is a fantastic shout for vegetarians, or those who just prefer a vegetable-led meal. rootbristol.co.uk Noah's For seafood or fish and chips Noah’s is a fish and seafood restaurant situated under a bridge on Spike Island overlooking the Cumberland Basin. It’s not hard to tell where its name came from – the restaurant itself, with modern wooden cladding and a subtle nautical theme, hints to fishing boats. Its simple approach to seafood is supported by the freshest produce, boasting a menu of fish caught from the south coast to the clear lochs of Scotland. To start there’s soft crumpets piled with lemony crab mayonnaise, hand-dived fat Orkney scallops drenched in garlic butter, and piles of Fowey mussels in a perfect white wine sauce. For a main you can choose your fish grilled or fried, like Cornish sole with brown butter and capers, or battered hake. There’s a rather clever Lock Keeper’s menu that runs for lunch daily 12-3pm as well as 12-6:30pm Mondays and Thursdays – this includes mussels, a fishcake or prime battered cod fillet with a pile of chips, mushy peas, homemade tartare sauce and a mug of builder’s tea. It comes in at £14.50, an absolute steal for some of the freshest fish you’ll get in the west of England. noahsbristol.co.uk Wilson's and Wilson's Bread Shop For fine dining Headed up by husband and wife team, Jan and Mary, Wilson’s opened its doors back in 2017 on Chandos Road in Redland. This one-Michelin-star restaurant happily brings together fine dining with farm-to-table eating in a relaxed neighbourhood setting. The small whitewashed restaurant features bare wooden tables and black painted boards with the leafy streets of Redland on the doorstep. The menu, though fine dining, is simple. You’ll find ingredients treated with the upmost thought and consideration such as raw seabass with smoked crème fraîche, gooseberries and thai basil, or blackcurrants from their farm turned into a smooth, delicate sorbet with basil leaves and oil, also made from their own crops. For a six-course menu available at both lunch and dinner you’ll pay £78, and the wine flight is an extra £50, which is very good value for such a fantastic dining experience. Just a few doors down from the restaurant is the bread shop, which absolutely should not be missed. Here you can pick up some of the exceptional sourdough served in the restaurant, as well as loaves such as Icelandic rye. There’s Wookey Hole cheddar toasties with house-made seasonal pickles, thick wobbly custard tarts and seasonal fruit-filled choux buns (with the fruit sourced from the farm). At weekends it serves up a real treat: the most excellent bacon rolls using Hokkaido milk buns, Koji-cured bacon and homemade red or brown sauce – just the perfect bite. wilsonsbristol.co.uk Bokman For modern Korean cooking Bristol favourite Bokman is a small Korean restaurant run by husband and wife duo Kyu Jeong Jeon and Duncan Robertson. It’s a small establishment in Stokes Croft, known for its independent businesses and thriving pub and live music scene. Bokman dominates the area as the best eatery around, serving up authentic, relaxed Korean food. A blackboard of up to 10 dishes serves as the menu, with regular changing Korean favourites. We started with pork and beef stuffed chillies, deep-fried in a crisp shell of batter and served with a dipping sauce with just the right balance of sweet and acidic, with notes of clementine. Sip on Korean beer before ordering a high-piled crunchy chinese leaf salad, tossed with seaweed, pine nuts and a creamy dressing, or try banchan, a plate of pickled Korean vegetables. There’s delicious locally caught fish on the menu along with rich, spicy braised tofu and a spectacular whole chicken stuffed with raw rice that’s slow cooked until the meat is tender and the rice has soaked up the fat and turned soft and sticky. A soft serve ice cream is always on rotation with seasonal toppings and usually one other dessert – if you’re lucky you may be there on a week where the matcha and chestnut tiramisu makes an appearance. The food feels like you’ve been invited to someone’s home as a guest for dinner. The staff make you feel comfortable, almost like a local. And no doubt you’ll wish you were once you’ve eaten at Bokman. bokman.co.uk Gambas For simple Spanish food at its best Gambas has a cool setting and slick menu – it’s one of those restaurants that does what it does extremely well. You feel in good hands eating there, under chefs that know what they’re doing and staff who competently chat you through the specials. Consistently excellent, it’s located in Wapping Wharf, overlooking the harbour, so on a sunny afternoon you’re in for a treat. The high-quality ingredients here never feel short of excellent. You’ll find fresh, juicy prawns pil pil, drenched in garlic butter, a fat tortilla with a wobbly centre and a smear of garlic aïoli, and plates of hand-carved jamón ibérico and golden, freshly fried croquettes. It all comes out at a good pace, never rushed, with enough time to enjoy the views and the wine. There’s a good wine list too and a jug of seasonal sangria never disappoints, such as cherry in the summer or clementine and rhubarb in the cooler months. gambasbristol.co.uk Dongnae For sophisticated sharing dishes Dongnae is the newer, sister restaurant to the popular Bokman. It sits on Chandos Road in Redland and has a much smarter setting than its more relaxed sister. The way of eating is different here too. You’re encouraged to share dishes from a charcoal grill, such a whole Brixham john dory, grilled pork belly and wagyu feather blade. These are all served with a wooden tray of ssam and condiments – essentially crispy whole lettuce and bitter leaves which act as a wrap for the smoky meat, fish, vegetables, pickles and sauces. There are also small plates, like beef dumplings in a delicate broth and the crispiest fried chicken wings in salty, almost caramel-like, lip-smacking sauce. You can order extra banchan too, including the homemade kimchi, which is the best we’ve ever tried. This is a really special dining experience. Book a table for an early evening and eat some of the most delicious Korean food in a calm, sophisticated setting. dongnae.co.uk Sonny Stores For Italian-led modern dining Pegs Quinn’s unassuming eatery sits happily on a corner in the backstreets of Southville. Unassuming it may be but here you’ll find some of the best food being served in Bristol. Pegs spent five years at The River Café before packing his bags and heading back to his home in the West Country to work in several restaurants before opening Sonny Stores five years ago. The menu reads head to toe of things you’ll be desperate to eat. There are fat, salted anchovies swimming in olive oil, large hunks of bubbly focaccia and the most sublime, crispy vegetable fritti to start with crispy curls of fried sage. There’s always pizza on the menu, smaller, chubbier and blistered or larger and thinner to share, the dough is light and fluffy, and toppings carefully thought out – like a pizza bianco with a creamy sauce, salami and little sharp pickled chillies. You could just eat the pizza because it’s so good but then you’ll want to save room for more. There’s hand-rolled pasta circulating the menu and meat braised slowly, served with the softest polenta. There’s a fat wedge of fluffy tiramisu, a simple, well-executed end. This small but perfectly formed restaurant is not to be missed. sonnystores.com Gigi's Pizza For New York slices This relatively new pizza joint is one of the hottest tickets in town. Located in the Old Market area of Bristol, it sings more of the backstreet pizza joints of Brooklyn. The premise is simple: American ovenbaked pizza with a crisp bottom and fantastic toppings. You can order Gigi’s by the slice or in whole 12-inch or 18-inch pies. The best way to dine here is to bring some friends and share some big pizzas. The margarita has a rich, glossy tomato sauce and a generous layer of oozy cheese. There’s pepperoni with just enough hot honey to cut through the spicy meat, and a really special cacio e pepe number. Order some slices, a pot of buffalo ranch and a couple of cold beers. Once you start it’s hard to stop ordering slice after slice. gigispizzashop.com The Kensington Arms For a very good Sunday roast Tucked away in the picturesque, leafy streets of Redland is local favourite The Kenny. It’s a cosy corner pub that serves evening meals, lunches and Sunday roasts that are as good as they come. There’s a sense of neighbourhood in this boozer, locals sit at the bar drinking Somerset cider and sleepy dogs wind themselves around their owners’ legs under the table. But what really makes this pub stand out is the exceptional cooking that comes out of the kitchen. Head for a Sunday roast and enjoy ruby red ex-dairy beef with fat yorkshire puddings, creamed celeriac and crispy roasties, or perfectly crackled iron aged pork belly. Start with a blackboard special that might involve some freshly caught Brixham scallops, lightly whipped cod’s roe on toast or pan-fried gnocchi with goat’s curd. Finish up with a wedge of sticky toffee pudding and a big satisfied smile on your face. Be sure to book as seating is limited in this cosy establishment and the Sunday roasts in particular are popular. thekensingtonarms.co.uk Fed For brunch Breakfast and brunch is always a 10/10 at one of the four Fed cafés that are dotted across Bristol (find them in Cotham, Gloucester Road, Fishponds and Westbury). With knock-out coffee, a really strong breakfast menu and some of the most delicious cakes in Bristol, order something sweet like apple overnight oats with earl grey soaked prunes, or a savoury number such as poached Cacklebean eggs on thick sourdough toast with garlicky greens, or a hot brioche bun with crispy bacon, eggs and chilli chutney. The huge selection of cakes is hard to pass by, strategically located by the exit, so don't leave without a big wedge of banana bread or a slice of the famous towering fudgy chocolate cake. fedcafe.co.uk Bristol Lido For building up an appetite Bristol’s Clifton Lido and its historic setting is one of the highlights of the city. Take a dip, sauna and hot tub before setting yourself down for a fantastic lunch in the bar or restaurant. The poolside bar offers a small plate menu inspired by the Mediterranean. There’s taramasalata with pickles, sumac and fluffy flatbreads, watermelon and barrel-aged feta salad, chargrilled lamb pintxo with harissa and seasoned yogurt, and Cornish sardines with tahini, coriander and lime. The restaurant above has a more extensive menu with larger plates such as slow-cooked tomato cavatelli or pan-fried skate wing. There are some fantastic packages on offer: for £55 you can bag yourself a swim and lunch package where you can use the facilities then enjoy two courses in the restaurant, or on Sundays have a swim and three small plates in the bar for the same price. Booking ahead is highly recommended as this is one of the most popular spots in Bristol. lidobristol.com More restaurants in Bristol loved by the olive team 1 York Place Chef Freddy Bird of Little French fame has opened his second Bristol restaurant, this time a split-level dining room on the outskirts of Clifton. Freddy’s food is flavour-driven and strongly European with opening snacks like jamón and smoked eel croquetas, and the lightest potato beignet with anchovy mayonnaise and pecorino. Seasonality comes into play in a starter of asparagus and a brown butter hollandaise with homemade sourdough. There is plenty of seafood on the menu – wild prawns, scallops, surf clams, hake, skate and gurnard – plus sharing options including roast rump cap with crisp cubed dripping potatoes and horseradish. 1yorkplace.co.uk Bank It’s a pleasure to spend time in this airy, welcoming space in Totterdown where all the important things matter: decent cocktails, imaginative wines, cooking over fire with seasonal ingredients, small plates and feasting menus, excellent coffee. Founder Dan O’Regan and his co-owner chef Jack Briggs work with local suppliers and seasonal ingredients, some grown at the restaurant’s allotment, to offer hearty plates for two or three to share like Hereford Cross sirloin with beef shin rendang, bone marrow and charred pineapple. Smaller, regularly switched-up dishes such as smoked pork belly, picked watermelon and mission crab butter; Scottish girolles, burnt sweetcorn custard, crispy poached egg and jalapeno show sharply-honed kitchen skills and influences from across the world. bankbristol.com The Pony Brother and sister Josh and Holly Eggleton are well-known on the Bristol dining scene. Their smallholding, a short drive from the city, combines restaurant with cookery school and polytunnels, gardens and orchards. Take lunch, dinner, afternoon tea – or a sustainable wine course. The Pony’s set menu is a great-value intro: cold roast beef with garden pesto, chalkstream trout with Pony herbs and vanilla set cream. theponychewvalley.co.uk Cotto Across several much-loved Bristol restaurants, including their eponymous flagship, the Bianchi family is an energetic proponent of modern Italian food. Cotto is steeped in tradition: old family recipes, cooking research in Padova, sourcing trips to storied Tuscan butchers. But it is colourfully innovative, too – for example, in its artichoke fritti with mint and hot honey or its Loco carbonara. Originally a cult hit at a previous Bianchi restaurant, Pasta Loco, a recently revived carbonara – which takes several days to make – arrives as a plate of saucy spaghetti and fennel sausage, topped with a slab of slow-cooked, crispy pork belly and a pancetta-wrapped poached egg. cottowinebarandkitchen.co.uk littlefrench Freddy Bird’s family-run restaurant in Westbury Park serves up hearty, regional French dishes which deliver on every level. With a menu of snacks, starters, mains, sharers and sides, you get the feeling Freddy’s trying to feed you up. Let him. A ‘snack’ of chargrilled baby monkfish is the juiciest we’ve ever tried, served with sauce vierge, fresh basil and a decent thwack of woodsmoke. We down massive oysters with shallot vinegar for a saline hit, seriously good olives sweet with garlic and rosemary, and creamy fizz from the Loire. littlefrench.co.uk Bianchis A painted Bell’s Diner & Bar Rooms sign still exists above the door at this famed Montpelier restaurant site, taken on by Dominic Borel and Ben Harvey to turn into a traditional Italian trattoria. Interiors include bottle-green banquettes and wood panelling, crisp white tablecloths, and a modern geometric print in the bar – and there’s a mix of bookable tables and those reserved for walk-ins. There’s a suitably grown-up nod to the restaurant’s Italian roots right from the off, with a bitter aperitivo list (negronis, Aperol and Campari spritzes, vermouth and tonics), and plenty of Italian wines, but there are also a few curveballs to look out for – including an Essex pinot blanc, an Austrian orange wine and a trendy Greek red. When it comes to the food, the team goes further than the pasta-centric offerings at its other sites. The menu – divided into cured, raw, antipasti, primi (showcasing their pasta-making skills) and secondi sections – makes the most of local West Country producers: think braised quail with pancetta, coco blanc, turnip and girolle agrodolce; and roast hake with Dorset clams and baby fennel. The kitchen is headed up by Pegs Quinn, who boasts the River Café on his CV. bianchisrestaurant.co.uk Bertha’s Once an engineer for the McLaren Formula 1 team, Graham Faragher and his wife, Kate, started Bertha’s as a street-food business, serving pizzas from a converted canary-yellow Land Rover Defender before opening a bricks-and-mortar pizzeria in Bristol’s burgeoning harbourside food quarter. For Graham, it’s all about a long fermentation for the sourdough – at Bertha’s, it’s between three and five days – and seasonal South West ingredients for the toppings. berthas.co.uk Poco Café by day, tapas joint by night, ethically focused Poco is a long-time member of the thriving indie community of Bristol, with food and drink menus featuring seasonal, British and often organic produce. The varied but cohesive collection of small plates (which is chalked up on the back wall alongside the producers whose ingredients it stars) is illustrative of Ian’s imagination and skill. Sweetcorn fritters are far more exciting than the image they conjure, and come loaded with jalapeño and rich crumbs of chocolate to offset that sweetness. Each is sat on an aioli-topped kohlrabi slice, for wrapping it in, taco-style. Cornish hake, dusted with kelp powder, is cooked with real care; the soft flesh falls away in thick, moist flakes at the mere suggestion of a fork, and slips into the silky oyster mayonnaise it’s partnered with. pocotapasbar.com Bulrush This modern British restaurant in the Cotham area of the city quickly made an impression on locals thanks to the clever cooking, interesting techniques (they’re big fans of fermentation) and bold flavour pairings from 30-year-old chef George Livesey. Originally from the Peak District, George has worked at St. John, for Dan Cox (executive chef of Fera at Claridge’s), and White Rabbit in Dalston before deciding to head West. His menus champion the produce of the region, including all the foraged ingredients he can get his hands on (from fiddlehead ferns and pine, to juniper and sea kale). With personable and passionate service, a cracking cocktail menu that complements the food, and sterling cooking coming out of the tiny kitchen. bulrushrestaurant.co.uk Pasta Ripiena Pasta Ripiena is the sister restaurant to the popular Pasta Loco. To keep things seasonal, the restaurant gets two weekly deliveries from the Milan fruit and vegetable market. This produce ends up in a range of dishes, particularly stuffed pasta, which is made on site every day. Typical main courses include tortellini of salt marsh lamb, artichoke barigoule, pancetta and ricotta salata, and ravioli of beef shin ragu, crispy coppa, chard and pedro ximénez. Dominic says: “You’ll find Joe rolling five different styles of stuffed pasta between the end of lunch service and dinner – the PX sherry jus on the beef ragu is sticky, sweet, rich and just plain naughty!” pastaripiena.co.uk River Station Bag a table by the window (or on the terrace) in the glass-fronted River Station (The Grove) to catch the action in the harbour. Go all out in the smart upstairs restaurant with mains such as roast hake with parmesan crust and cannellini beans, the two-course set lunch in the relaxed downstairs café-bar is a bargain. riverstation.co.uk Koocha Mezze Bar Koocha Mezze Bar is a Persian, all-vegan cocktail and mezze bar with a contagiously sparky, easy-going spirit, in Bristol’s independent quarter. Run by long-time vegetarian turned vegan, Noda Marvani, Koocha’s bold, all-black exterior hints at the snug, stylish space within. There are also bright blue picnic tables on the patio outside for warmer days but Koocha’s brought the outdoors in, too; festoon lighting against a dark ceiling makes for an atmospheric, dining-under-the-stars feel. The menu is short and sweet, with one page for mezze, mains, sides and desserts then another for drinks — including plenty of vegan cocktails and signature G&Ts. Menu highlights include the koopa – earthy rice balls, deep-fried and loaded with cinnamon and turmeric – and spiced, slow-roasted cauliflower teamed with saffron yogurt and pomegranate seeds. Almost everything here is made from scratch (including the seitan used in the kebabs) and what Koocha don’t make themselves they look to the Bristol community to supply. Desserts are brought in from Elspeth’s Kitchen — a vegan, gluten-free bakery down the road from the restaurant — and bread’s sourced from Bristol-based Abunoor Pitta Factory. koochamezzebar.com Nutmeg Located in smart Clifton, Nutmeg serves up seriously delicious Indian cuisine. With its buzzy, welcoming atmosphere, this restaurant doesn’t mind if you’re dressed up or down, but the dishes are certainly special enough for a celebration. In its dishes, decor and demeanour, Nutmeg is wonderfully colourful. Street-art-style murals on the walls are pure Bristol, while wooden floors and red banquettes add polish. Owner Raja Munuswamy and head chef Arvind Pawar source ingredients from local indie suppliers, including Ruby and White butchers and Bristol Sweet Mart. While the tasting menu focuses on one region at a time (on our visit the northern region of Kashmir), cycling quarterly to keep things fresh, the à la carte features flavours inspired by all 29 of India’s states. After a tray of well-balanced homemade chutneys, the amuse bouche of golgappa puri – a traditional street snack of deep-fried tried filled with tamarind water, chilli, chaat masala and chickpea – proved to be one of the standouts of the night. We also found ourselves particularly enamoured with the main course’s yakhni gosht – rich, slow-cooked lamb that was moreishly tender, warm with ginger and cumin and cooled with a hung yoghurt sauce. Paired with a fruity pinot noir rosé, the pudding rounded the evening off beautifully; a deliciously syrupy jalebi acted as the perfect foil to a fragrant ball of homemade rose kulfi ice cream. nutmeg.co.uk Bravas For a pre-dinner bite, cross Whiteladies Road to small, buzzy Bravas which, with its exposed brick walls and hessian coffee sacks, could be a backstreet tapas bar in Spain. Make sure you try the lamb à la plancha with hazelnut and parsley salsa or the tortilla with homemade aïoli. bravas.co.uk Bocabar For a sit-down Sunday lunch with friends and family, Bocabar is a Bristol institution (though it’s just as good on other days of the week too). There’s a local, sustainable ethos running through the menu; fish and meat dishes often list the farm or fishmonger those scallops, roast pork or lamb come from. It's a great option for kids: the relaxed vibe means there are plenty of child-friendly sharing platters stocked with West Country cheeses and meats. Wood-fired pizzas and Sunday roasts are other classic menu items here (though it’s also the kind of place you could just drop into for coffee and order some toast for the kids). And the large space and laid-back vibe makes it a breezy, chilled out place to be with children, where you don’t feel you’re impinging on other diners. bristol.bocabar.co.uk Green Man Tucked away in tranquil Kingsdown, the cosy Green Man could almost be in a Somerset village. Savour a pre-dinner pint of Bristol Best, made with British malt and hops by Westcountry brewers Dawkins (who own the pub). If you’re not booked elsewhere for dinner, the home-cooked food is good too. facebook.com/thegreenmanbristol Best cafés and coffee shops in Bristol Ahh Toots Tables are much sought after at this cool and cosy bakery-café, where, behind that historic Tudor façade, owners, Tam Galliford and Amy Symonds, create ace celebration cakes and lush afternoon teas. Sandwiches and unusually interesting scones (sour cherry and toasted pumpkin seed, for example) are followed by a variety of modish bakes, such as thyme and sea salt chocolate cookies or lemon mascarpone choux buns. Tam and Amy like to use products from fellow Bristol indies, such as Circumstance Distillery’s whiskey in their white chocolate truffles. Their house coffee blend was created with Radical Roasters. ahhtoots.com Hart’s Bakery The queues snaking out the door tell you all you need to know about Hart’s Bakery. Set under the arches at Bristol Temple Meads railway station, swing by for epic sausage rolls and Saturday Bread. hartsbakery.co.uk Two Day Coffee Roasters As unpretentious as coffee shops get, Two Day Coffee Roasters sells an impressive selection of beans by weight, as well as cups of coffee to go (there are no seats). The Bristol coffee scene may have grown over the past few years, but these guys were right there at the start. twodaycoffee.co.uk Primrose Café Ease yourself into the day with brunch at one of Bristol’s longest-standing food institutions, the Primrose Café (Clifton Arcade, 1 Boyce’s Avenue). Go for the All-In-Two cooked breakfast, haddock fish cakes, or a slab of its legendary chocolate and salted caramel cake. primrosecafe.co.uk Papadeli Transport yourself to the Med at Papadeli, a deli-cum-café-cum cookery school whose ‘papa’ is affable ex-chef Simon MacDonnell. If you’re staying beyond the weekend, book onto a weekday evening cooking class. Otherwise, devour a chocolate brownie in the café or snap up a Sorelle Nurzia Italian Easter Colomba cake in the deli. papadeli.co.uk Spicer & Cole Amble into classy Clifton for tea at Spicer & Cole, the antidote to faceless coffee shop chains. Ingredients are locally sourced and the sandwiches and cakes are handmade on site. The carrot cake is addictive. spicerandcole.co.uk Mark's Bread You can spot the queues long before you reach Mark Newman’s artisan bakery on the popular North Street. Bag a loaf of his sourdough, still warm from the ovens behind the counter, or settle down with a paper and croque Monsieur in the café next door. marksbread.co.uk Best food and drink shops in Bristol The Bristol Cheesemonger Shopping in a shipping container is cool, right? Literally in the case of The Bristol Cheesemonger, since the space is also refrigerated; proprietor Rosie Morgan sells excellent More Wine bag-in-box wine and the most marvellous array of British cheeses, including an awesome trio of cheddars (when in the West Country…). bristol-cheese.co.uk Bristol Sweet Mart Head to Easton (east of Bristol city centre) to find Bristol Sweet Mart, a glorious South Asian emporium where you can buy anything from tiffin boxes to bunches of herbs, chutneys, fresh pickles, pulses and grains (make sure to nose through the gargantuan selection of spices). sweetmart.co.uk Wai Yee Hong Apart from having one of the funniest Twitter profiles out there, Wai Yee Hong is a behemoth of a Chinese supermarket, requiring a whole day to fully explore its shelves. Charge round with a shopping trolley stocking up on all things Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Thai. waiyeehong.com St Nicholas' Market Soak up the atmosphere at St Nicholas’ Market which offers everything from wheatgrass juice to handmade Pieminister pies (try the Heidi with Somerset goat’s cheese), and pulled pork sandwiches from Grillstock Smokeshack. At the gorgeous Source food hall & café, grab a Gloucester Old Spot sausage roll or stock up on local goodies. bristol.gov.uk/st-nicholas-markets Reg the Veg Take your pick from the veg-laden cart outside another Bristol stalwart, Reg the Veg greengrocers. Reg has moved on and it’s now run by John Hagon and son Tom. Vegetables come from nearby Failand or in the case of asparagus, the Wye Valley. There’s Bradley’s apple juice and Ooh! Chocolata bars made in Nailsea too. regtheveg.co.uk Foodie neighbourhood to explore: Wapping Wharf Situated on Bristol’s historic floating harbour, Wapping Wharf is one of the city’s coolest and best loved neighbourhoods. And for good reason. It boasts a collection of shipping containers housing some of the best independent restaurants, bakeries and bars in Bristol. Here you’ll find more casual dining, lunches to grab after a visit to Bristol's famous M Shed museum as well as harbourside evening dining. There’s well known Bristol institution Root, for vegetable, seasonal-led eating, and Gambas for authentic waterside tapas (not to be missed, the garlic butter sizzling pil pil prawns). For a quick bite grab a New York style bagel from Bagelry Box, served from an old horse box – this small menu doesn't skimp on quality with freshly baked hand-rolled bagels filled with 10-hour smoked pastrami and all the trimmings – an ideal lunch alongside a coffee from Mokoko sat by the water. For finer dining head to Lapin, a small French eatery with modern twists: try golden comté gougères, Brixham scallops with garlic butter, and roast aubergine ratatouille with pistou. The best way to satisfy your after-dinner sweet tooth might be a trip to Swoon Gelato for its rich, creamy Italian artisan gelato, the pistachio and Bacio (hazelnut and chocolate) being nothing short of perfect. If you fancy grabbing anything for the road, independent supermarket Better Food stocks an array of great local Somerset produce, from cheeses, milk from Bruton Dairy and seasonal organic veg to delicious breads from Batches Bakery and local chocolate Where to stay in Bristol The Bristol First time visitors entering by Prince Street will be surprised and delighted to discover that that across the lobby of The Bristol lies the harbour, making it a great base for exploring much of the city’s most vibrant food scene. The hotel’s classic afternoon tea in the River Grille provides the opportunity to see the iconic yellow ferries putter along over cucumber sandwiches, Victoria sponge and hyper-local Bird and Blend tea. Next door is contemporary Rick’s Bar, for sharing boards and brunch on the terrace and signature cocktails at the bar. Book a cosy Harbourside Room for views of the Bristol Eye ferris wheel. Rooms from £98, B&B from £125. Check availability at booking.com The Artist Residence Looking for a place to stay in Bristol? The unstoppable Artist Residence team has restored a Georgian townhouse, previously an old boot factory, right by Bristol’s eclectic city centre. Loft rooms have standalone bathtubs, whilst the luxurious Lookout room on the top floor is spread over two levels with a private terrace for views over the city. Doubles from £154, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com More UK travel guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Manchester Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Words by Esther Clark, Laura Rowe, Claire Thomson (Bristol-based chef and the author of three cookbooks), Mark Taylor, Rosie Sharratt, Tory Parks, Kate Authers, Christine Hayes and Helen Salter Photography by Sam Gibson, Mike Lusmore, Getty, Kirstie Young
Discover the tavernas with sun-dappled courtyards, the top bakeries, coolest wine bars and more with our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Athens
Looking for the best restaurants, bars and café's in Greece's foodie capital? We asked Athens-based Kate Lough for her top recommendations. For more European travel guides, check out our picks of the best restaurants in Porto or the best European city breaks. After falling more and more in love with Athens over the past 18 months, I moved to its Kypseli neighbourhood in January 2025 – the fitting culmination of a childhood spent devouring Greek myths, exploring its sun-drunk islands and studying its ancient language. An undulating city that straddles ancient and modern, Athens fizzes with a creative energy. Its gastronomic scene also ripens from month to month, as homegrown chefs open dynamic restaurants and native wine producers bolster its drinks menus. From old-school classics to contemporary tavernas, here are a handful of my favourites, many of which celebrate homegrown ingredients, methods and vines. Best places to eat and drink in Athens Linou Soumpasis & Sia, Psiri Open since 2022, Linou Soumpasis & Sia is one of the best examples of Athens’ neo-gastronomy. It's a love letter to Greek produce and wines, including some brilliant pet nats, and most of its offerings are made from scratch. An all-white space is perked up with metal tables and chairs and wooden counters (a great option for solo diners), and warmed with skinny beeswax church candles — apt for a former candle shop. Choose from top quality dishes with a pescatarian leaning such as hot wild greens, tuna carpaccio in watermelon oil and grilled John Dory. New for 2025, it now serves breakfast — including a delicious schnitzel bun. Seychelles, Keramikos Located in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Keramikos, Seychelles is an older favourite on the neo-taverna scene. Always packed, this relaxed spot works just as well for a long lunch with friends as it does perching at the small bar for a late dinner à deux. The menu, inspired by small producers around Greece, changes regularly, but make sure to try its stalwart beef pappardelle, topped with soft mizithra cheese. Taverna Ton Filon, Kolonos Drawing a loyal crowd to scruffy Kolonos, Taverna Ton Filon is a co-venture from chef Yiannis Mousios and sommelier Giorgos Kontorizos. Charmingly decorated in homage to its 1950s origins, this modern taverna riffs on traditional Greek dishes, paired with good value Greek wines. The menu changes daily, but you can expect plates such as roasted beetroot with walnut skordalia, grilled sardines and some excellent wedges of potato — plus, for dessert, an addictive chocolate mousse laced with salt. In summer, the softly lit courtyard space is one of the loveliest alfresco spots in Athens. instagram.com/tavernatonfilon Oikonomou, Ano Petralona Opposite the much loved Zefyros outdoor cinema in the leafy neighbourhood of Ano Petralona, Oikonomou has been serving up comforting family recipes since 1930. With its chequered tile floor and joyful primrose yellow walls, it is a simple, homely taverna that nourishes stomach and soul. Alongside pitchers of hyma (house wine), order traditional dishes such as fava, rooster with spaghetti and roast lamb, which falls off the bone. On sunnier days, sit at one of its pavement tables under the shade of olive trees. Manari Taverna, Monastiraki A newcomer to the Athenian scene at the end of 2024, Manari has quickly cemented itself as one of the hottest tables in town. From the founder of Birdman and Nolan, it focuses heavily on meat, with a hefty chunk of its menu cooked over fire. Come with a big group and order a pile of the oregano-marinated chicken or mutton paidakia and the melt-in-the-mouth lamb giouvetsi, alongside its cabbage salad and top-notch patates. Make sure to book ahead. manaritaverna.com Epta Martyres, Neos Kosmos Run by a group of friends, this is a low-intervention wine bar with meze dishes inspired by the tsipouradika bars of Volos – where many of the team come from and sister to Loggia in Sifnos. Sit outside with a pét nat and make your way through the chef ’s surprise plates. @eptamartyres.athens Ta Kanaria, Moschato An idyllic option for Sunday lunch, you will be surrounded by Greek families in the sun-dappled courtyard of Ta Kanaria. Run by the Argyropoulos family since the 1950s, this fish taverna has no menu, which only makes it more delightful. Dark olives, thick slices of olive oil-drenched feta and a perfect tomato salad (with grated onion) are served ahead of platters of plump prawns and excellent whole fish such as bream or red mullet sold by the kilo. Pharaoh, Exarchia Don’t let its location on a dodgy street between Exarchia and Omonia put you off. Once inside, Pharoah always delivers on a sexy vibe. The proud owner of a Michelin Bib Gourmand, it combines village-style dishes cooked the old fashioned way (over fire and in wood ovens), an extensive natural wine list from Greece and beyond, and vinyl. Once the kitchen closes, it transforms into a late-night bar, soundtracked by the city’s finest DJs. pharaoh.gr Di Porto, Monastiraki Another Athenian institution, you will find Di Porto down a few stairs in a nondescript basement opposite the Varvakeios fish market. Workers and visitors mingle at this no-menu joint that has been in operation since the late 1800s. Retsina is served in aluminium jugs, bread is plonked straight onto butcher’s paper stretched across its few tables and plates (made with ingredients from the market) include simple things such as chickpeas, meat stews and Greek salad. No-frills authenticity. Black Salami, Exarchia The Black Salami micro-bakery makes the best sandwiches in Athens, with its chewy yet crispy focaccia-style bread. It sells out every day by closing time at 5pm, so get there early to choose the best fillings — including my favourite with mortadella, tomato, feta and pistachios. instagram.com/the_black_salami_microbakery Materia Prima, Pagrati Occupying a gorgeous spot on the edge of Mesolongiou Square in Pagrati, this is the second wine bistro from the Materia Prima team. A changing menu of dishes such as potato cakes, pasta with lemon and wild mushrooms, and short ribs with celeriac are married with an impressive wine list that changes monthly — and runs the gamut from Greek Assyrtikos and Xinomavros to Pinot Noirs from Chile. materiaprima.gr Dexamenes, Kolonaki An all-day spot leading up the pedestrianised street from Dexameni Square, this is a winner for a sunny weekend lunch in elegant Kolonaki. Informal and walk-in only — there is often a queue but it moves quickly — Dexamenes sets up its dark green tables on the pavement and serves up a reasonably priced menu of mezze-style dishes such as dakos salad and fried calamari, with jugs of white or tall glasses of cloudy ouzo. Afterwards, you can climb nearby Lycabettus Hill for a spectacular view of the Acropolis and the wider sprawl of Athens below. Kennedy Vins, Syntagma Self-styled as a ‘sans sulphite listening bar’, Kennedy Vins is one of the best-looking spaces in Athens, and the latest project from photographer and magazine founder Chris Kontos. Small but perfectly formed, the bar has a thoughtful list of wines from small French producers — with a focus on the Alsace region — simple plates of cheese and charcuterie and a high-end sound system for records, which Kontos personally selects each evening. instagram.com/kennedyvins Diporto, Downtown Diporto sits in a nondescript basement opposite the Varvakeios fish market. Workers and visitors mingle at this no-menu joint, in operation since the late 1800s. Retsina is served in aluminium jugs, bread is plonked straight onto butcher’s paper and plates include simple but market-fresh grilled sardines and stews. Kora Bakery, Kolonaki Near the bottom of Lycabettus Hill, Kora is a contemporary Athenian bakery specialising in sourdough and viennoiserie. Stop by for a high quality loaf, a pain au chocolat or one of its famous salted cookies. Look out for its fleeting offerings, including hot cross buns at Easter (a nod to co-founder Ianthi Michalaki’s time in London) or melomakarona (small honey cakes) at Christmas. korabakery.com Tanini Agapi Mou, Exarchia One of the pioneers of Athens’ natural wine scene, Tanini Agapi Mou (which translates as ‘Tanin my love’) has an impressive cellar of 100 all-Greek natural wines — most of which are available by the glass. Its knowledgeable, friendly staff are on hand to guide you through the vast menu (helpful ruler included), which roams from Serifos to Crete to Thessaly. Plus, look out for its regular tasting nights. taniniagapimou.gr Wine is Fine, Monastiraki A hit since it opened in 2023, this Gallo-Greek natural wine bar and restaurant puts a relaxed spin on white-tablecloth drinking and dining. Settle in at one of its pavement tables, and make your way through its low or no-intervention glasses of the day — soaked up with a bowl of its much loved cacio e pepe. Walk-ins only. wineisfine.gr A foodie day trip outside of Athens An hour’s drive from central Athens, just over the Corinth Canal, lies the Peloponnese. Book in for lunch at Kavos 1964, an iconic family-run taverna known for its fish and shellfish dishes. After a quick dip on the tiny beach nearby, order some taramasalata, kalamaraki and horta (wild greens) to start, before sharing a vast platter of spaghetti with clams. After a long lunch, you can visit the ancient theatre in Epidaurus, which is only a short drive away and one of Greece’s most important archaeological sites. More travel guides Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Giorgi Mindiashvili, Georgian restaurateur and owner of soon to open DakaDaka in London, shares what makes the cuisine of his homeland so special
From cheesy khachapuri to hearty stews and unique local wines, Georgia has plenty to offer foodies. Restaurateur Giorgi Mindiashvili shares the things he loves the most about his homeland. After you've read our guide below, check out our guides to Turkey and Finland, then discover our Turkish recipes. Georgian food: 10 things we love Khachapuri We have endless varieties of khachapuri, each from a different region. From boat-shaped adjaruli, filled with mixture of imeruli and sulguni cheese, and topped with butter and egg yolk, to round imeruli stuffed with fresh curd cheese, and chakhragina, my personal favourite, filled with chard and salty cheese. Khinkali No Georgian table is complete without khinkali, our famous dumplings. The story goes that they travelled from the east centuries ago, carried by nomadic tribes crossing the Caucasus. Today they’re made in every region, each with its own touch – some with beef and pork, some with lamb, mushrooms or cheese curds. To eat one properly, pick it up by the twisted stalk (we call it the belly button), turn it upside down, take a bite, slurp the hot broth, then eat the rest. It’s a meal and a ritual in one. Spices Tbilisi’s position on the old Silk Road means centuries of spice passed through our kitchens. From Persian saffron to Syrian coriander and Indian flatbreads, everything found a way into Georgian cooking. The backbone of our flavour is khmeli suneli, a golden-green spice blend of blue fenugreek, marigold and coriander. It seasons our stews – kharcho and satsivi – and ties the country’s east and west together in one shared taste. Georgian wine Georgia is where wine was born. Archaeologists have found evidence of winemaking dating back to 8,000 BC. We still use qvevri – large clay vessels buried underground – to ferment and age the wine, allowing it to breathe naturally. It’s not a trend here, it’s ancestry. The soils, often chalky and mineral-rich, give our wines a saline edge. In the east, the region of Kakheti produces structured, powerful wines from grapes like saperavi, rkatsiteli, khikhvi and krakhuna. In the west, Imereti and Samegrelo give lighter, more aromatic expressions – tsitska, tsolikouri, ojaleshi, otskhanuri sapere. We distil the left-over grape must into fiery chacha (our grappa) and we make churchkhela, candle-shaped sweets of walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice. Walnuts – the sacred ingredient Almost every Georgian household has a walnut tree in its garden. We use walnuts in everything: as the base for sauces and spreads, for thickening stews and in countless versions of pkhali – finely ground walnuts mixed with spinach, aubergine or the wild mountain herb ekala. It’s one ingredient that defines the Georgian palate: earthy, nutty, nourishing and beautifully versatile. Supra and sharing-style menus If you really want to understand Georgia, start with a supra. These traditional feasts used to take place outdoors. There would be catfish in coriander-vinegar sauce, crispy suckling pig, whole chicken, tomato and cucumber salads, bundles of herbs, spring onions and radishes, bowls of pkhali – vibrant walnut and vegetable spreads – and still-warm shoti bread fresh from the clay oven. Every supra has a tamada, the toastmaster, who leads the table in toasts – to love, to peace, to the future – often accompanied by polyphonic singing. These days supras are mostly for celebrations and holidays but their spirit lives on in sharing-style dining in Georgian households and restaurants. Festive feasting Before Orthodox Christmas (7 January) many Georgians observe a 40-day plant-based fast. When the fast breaks it’s not just a meal, it’s renewal. Families gather, bringing dishes from their own homes: satsivi (chicken in walnut-garlic sauce), Rachan ham, aubergine pkhali, crispy roast pork and gozinaki, walnut and honey sweets. Candles glow in the window, a special cloth covers the table and the house fills with warmth. Rachan ham In the Racha mountains, people make a cured ham called lori. The pig is slaughtered in October, the hams hung, smoked and left to dry for months in the cold air. In winter, thin slices are added to lobio – a claypot stew of red beans, walnuts and spices – then sealed under a layer of cornbread and slow cooked over fire. The flavour is smoky, nutty and deep, like Georgia’s answer to cassoulet. Shkmeruli Named after the highland village of Shkmeri, this dish is the essence of Georgian comfort food. A spatchcock chicken is pan-fried until crisp, then cooked with garlic in its own juices. In the city people began to whisk the pan juices with a little cream, creating a silky emulsion not unlike a Basque pil pil. Traditionally it’s cooked in cast iron with a heavy stone on top for the perfect crust. Once served it’s drenched in its own hot garlicky sauce – simple, humble, extraordinary. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2024/04/GettyImages-1314856610-85f3a0e.jpg" width="594" height="396" alt="Shkmeruli, is a traditional Georgian dish of chicken in garlic sauce. Both sides of the chicken are fried and then is cooked over low heat for 20–25 minutes in the covered pan. When the chicken is done, it is placed in a plate and a little oil from the pan is added; garlic and nuts are simmered along with water in the remaining oil. After 5 minutes, the chicken is added to this mixture and heated before serving. Almaty, Kazakhstan. (Photo by: Kushamanov Didar/Majority World/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)" title="Shkmeruli, is a traditional Georgian dish of chicken in garlic sauce." /> Hearty stews Comforting stews slow cooking for hours over a stove are a staple in Georgian households. These include kharcho (beef, tomatoes, herbs and ghomi, our version of grits), workers’ favourite ostri (spicy beef with chilli and deep umami), chicken chahhokhbili braised with tomatoes, herbs and fiery ajika paste, and bright spring chakapuli with lamb, tarragon and sour plums. Perhaps the most beloved of all is satsivi, made of cold chicken bathed in thick walnut sauce, finished with saffron oil. 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10 magical London streets and neighbourhoods for Christmas shopping
Shop, eat and feel merry on these festive London streets lined with unique boutiques and established brands – it'll make Christmas shopping a breeze
On the hunt for unique gifts for the food lover in your life? These London neighbourhoods are brimming with independent boutiques, artisan food stores and Christmas markets – perfect for shopping, exploring and soaking up some festive cheer. We've also included nearby foodie hot spots to refuel for an all-round shopping experience with seasonal sparkle. Discover our guides to the best UK city breaks and our favourite European hidden gem hotels. For more winter travel inspiration, see our guide to the best ski destinations or best winter sun destinations for something a little warmer. Festive London streets and neighbourhoods for Christmas shopping Columbia Road Market More than the heaving East End flower market that takes place every Sunday, Columbia Road's shops host a range of events during the year, including Columbia Road Christmas Wednesdays. Being one of the few streets in the country composed of sixty independent shopfronts, it's a good opportunity to pick up unique gifts in a local environment while enjoying a big dose of Christmas cheer (expect mulled wine and mince pies). You can also shop later in the evening along the small stretch of stores, where small art galleries sit next to English delis and homeware and antique shops. There’s also a wealth of great pubs, cafés and restaurants. Pick up custom cakes at Lily Vanilli Bakery or head to cool boozer The Royal Oak for a post-market tipple. Brawn is an olive favourite, serving European small plates alongside a menu of natural and organic wines. Coal Drops Yard and King’s Cross Once industrial, but now one of London’s most stylish shopping destinations, King’s Cross and Coal Drops Yard come alive at Christmas with a packed programme of markets. The Canopy Christmas Market is home to over 50 indie crafters, designers and artisan produce – perfect for ticking off your gift list and sampling street food and mulled cider. Other Christmas offerings include the Wine Car Boot, where each stall is an independent wine store; the N4 Makers’ Market; and B Corp-certified Lower Stable Street Market, to name a few. Outside the markets, browse unique brands such as designer Tom Dixon's flagship store and plant-filled Botanical Boys, then tuck into gooey hand-topped cookies from The After School Cookie Club. If you need a pause mid-shop, The Drop is an intimate wine bar housed within the Victorian stone arches – it has a stellar cheese and charcuterie menu – while Happy Face Pizza offers wood-fired slices with sloppy centres and puffy crusts. Peckham and Rye Lane Looking to shop small this Christmas? Peckham is the place. Starting as small boutique market, Pexmas is now an annual fixture on the London Christmas market scene. Taking place at Copeland Park, it's a great chance to stock up on handmade gifts while supporting some of the best micro brands in Peckham. If you miss it, visit the store on Market Row in Brixton Village. Elsewhere, dig through vinyl crates, unearth independent prints and meet local collectors at The Big Market Record & Art fair at Peckham Levels – perfect for those who like their Christmas shopping with a side of creativity. The area also promises some of south London's most exciting restaurants – Lai Rai is the spot for playful Vietnamese cooking, while Hausu's menu of modern sharing plates makes a cool date night spot. Redchurch Street and and Spitalfields Market Visit this buzzy east London district for its clutch of creative indie shops and designer-makers. Redchurch Street is dotted with cool and contemporary one-off shops, from fashion boutiques and vintage designers to home fragrance brands; Old Spitalfields Market is a bustling hub for thoughtful Christmas gifts, with unique stalls selling everything from London-made leather goods to vintage watches and hand-poured candles. Foodies should make a beeline for the market’s huddle of street-food traders, with options like Dumpling Shack and Le Bab. For a caffeine fix, head to Grind's pastel pink van, taste authentic chai from Chai Guys or tuck into fluffy Taiwanese pancakes at Wheelcake Island. Gloria, a flamboyant Italian trattoria on Great Eastern Street, is perfect for a fun group dinner, while Passione Vino offers a secret wine bar experience as well as bottles to gift wine lovers. Marylebone Village Marylebone’s elegant high street and surrounding lanes are a haven for good-quality shopping. Daunt Books is a book-lover’s paradise, while Le Creuset provides ultimate cookware inspiration. Pop into Rococo Chocolates for bespoke hampers and La Fromagerie for cheese, fine wines and extra virgin olive oil – speak to the affineur (cheese specialist), who will help with selections. The area’s boutiques – VV Rouleaux for ribbons, hats and accessories or KJ’s Laundry for covetable fashion – make present-hunting a joy. Refuel at The Ginger Pig with a hot sausage roll or linger over a coffee and cake at Fischer’s, a Viennese-style café. For a memorable dinner, Carlotta serves famiglia-style Sicilian classics with an American twist, complete with lavish gold décor and glitter ball-decorated toilets. Charlotte Street and Fitzrovia The surrounding streets of leafy Fitzrovia are heaped with quaint indie shops, making it a hot spot for those seeking a one-of-a-kind gift. Make a beeline for Rathbone, New Cavendish and Percy streets, where you can expect a blend of sleek interior shops, small boutiques and niche bookshops such as Treadwell’s Books – specialising in esoteric books and mystical gifts. Tottenham Court Road is a stone's throw away, should you need to hit the big flagships. Laid-back Charlotte Street is considered Fitzrovia’s foodie hub. Elsa offers Alsatian-inspired fare with a glow-up, while Roka's elegant Japanese robatayaki is a must. Nearby Kiss The Hippo makes top-notch coffee alongside a roster of brunch classics. End the day by grabbing a seat at Bar Kinky for inventive drinks in a sultry setting. Covent Garden No area does Christmas quite like Covent Garden, where twinkling lights, oversized baubles and a giant Christmas tree set the scene for some of the city’s best festive shopping. The cobbled piazza is home to a refined clutch of gifting specialists – lotions and potions from Aesop, floral-scented candles from Miller Harris and curated tea gift boxes from Whittard of Chelsea. Covent Garden’s Christmas market stalls add extra sparkle, with handmade or antique stocking fillers and seasonal treats galore. Hidden just off the main square, Neal’s Yard courtyard is a treasure trove for food lovers, with 26 Grains serving wholesome porridge bowls and seasonal plates, and The Barbary offering counterside Middle Eastern feasts. For a pick-me-up, head to Fabrique Bakery for cinnamon buns or La Gelatiera for Sicilian buns and hot chocolate. When you’re ready for something stronger, La Compagnie is a stylish wine bar tucked away in Neal’s Yard, ideal for a glass of something special and a few small plates. King's Road and Duke of York Square Chelsea’s King’s Road and Duke of York Square are royally dressed up for Christmas, with festive lights, markets and a cluster of chic stores selling their finest wares. Browse Nokwol for premium leather footwear and Monica Vinader for handcrafted, 100 per cent recycled gold and silver jewellery. Luxury British perfume house Penhaligon's boasts 180 years of olfactory experience. You'll also find the flagship stores of skincare favourite Dermalogica. If time allows, pay a visit to the Saatchi Gallery for a culture fix. You're also not short of delicious offerings on King's Road: tuck into contemporary Mediterranean at Kora or settle in for a cocktail-fuelled dinner at Ixchel, an award-winning Mexican restaurant and tequila bar. Carnaby Street Soho’s warren of streets is a goldmine for fun gifting, from designer homeware at Liberty to Korean beauty at PURESEOUL on Carnaby Street. The street's neon Christmas lights are legendary, and the area hosts festive pop-ups and late-night shopping events throughout the season. Refuel at Imad’s Syrian Kitchen, where a sharing-style menu of Syrian dishes steal the show. Find it in Kingly Court, Carnaby's three-storey food hall, where you can also take in Indian eatery Darjeeling Express and vegan Tex-Mex spot Club Mexicana. For a classic Soho experience, Bar Italia is open late for espresso, while Dishoom’s Bombay comfort fare is always a crowd-pleaser. Broadway Market This weekend market is an established Hackney institution, groaning with independent traders selling everything from small-batch accessories to quirky prints and wheel-thrown ceramics. There's plenty of street food vendors, too, for a quick nibble or on-the-go lunch. The market street is flanked by food shops and delis that are open seven days a week – stop at La Bouche for cheese and charcuterie or pick up pastries from Pavilion Bakery. Sune, a groovy neighbourhood restaurant, is a top spot for eclectic small plates and natural wines. For something sweet, check out popular Benny's Broadway, the viral banana pudding spot. Nearby Netil Market is a smaller, charming alternative, hosting artisan stalls and street-food offerings.
Celebrate the bold, warming flavours of the Czech Republic with these classic recipes, from hearty dumplings to iconic beer snacks and buttery bakes.
Want to learn about Czech food or looking for Czech recipes? Read Evie Harbury's guide, then check out the guide to Turkish food and Maltese food. Recipes extracted from My Bohemian Kitchen by Evie Harbury (£20, Murdoch Books). Photographs by Ola O Smit. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. Czech cuisine Czech cuisine is bold. Despite being a country not widely known for its gastronomy, boy, does the food speak volumes. It's accidentally seasonal and serendipitously simple. The flavours are similar to those you might be familiar with in German, Austrian and Polish cuisine (by no coincidence, since these are the countries that border it). With paprika, pickles, cabbage, mustard and dill featuring heavily, the rich cooked meats – such as beef, duck and pork – are complemented by perfectly prepared carbs and garden-grown vegetables. Other key flavour-makers that feature on a typical plate of food are caraway seeds, marjoram (both fresh and dried) and mushrooms (often foraged from the forests). As a Bohemian, I firmly believe the best things in life come wrapped in dough. In Czech cuisine, these take the form of hearty, warming dumplings stuffed with smoked meat and served on sauerkraut, or even turned into a sweet treat filled with strawberries, apricots or plums. Not all the array of Czech dumplings are stuffed, though – some are served on the side to soak up the flavourful sauces and accompany meats. Bakes and sweet treats are certainly a highlight of Czech cuisine, often favouring jam, fruit or nutty fillings over chocolate ones – the cakes, biscuits and bakes tend to be simple but purposeful. No fuss and few frills, but melt-in-your-mouth delicious. The linzer cookies featured here are a great example. Like in plenty of places around the world, the food is the language of love, but not in a soppy way – in a "I’m going to prove I love you by showering you (metaphorically) in copious amounts of food that I spent hours of my life growing, nurturing and preparing" kind of way. Importantly, the food is best washed down with slivovice, a Czech plum brandy that is drunk as an aperitif, digestif and everything in between. If someone offers you a taste of their homemade slivovice, made from the plums in their orchard, know that you’ve made a friend for life. Czech recipes Smoked ham stuffed dumplings (Bramborové knedlíky plnené uzeným masem) Satisfying to both make and eat, this recipe has such simple ingredients and yet delivers an interesting and massively filling plate of food. In the Czech Republic, you can buy a large piece of cooked smoked ham in any supermarket or butcher but, as that is not the case everywhere else, I have suggested using pancetta instead. These dumplings are served sprinkled with what I’ve heard described as České zlato {chess-kair zla-toh} – ‘Czech gold’ – a poetic term for golden crispy onions that accurately expresses just how valuable a part of the meal they are, the all-important finishing touch that brings the whole dish together. Marinated cheese (Nakládaný hermelín) This is one of Bohemia’s most iconic beer snacks, found in nearly every pub in the region. It goes hand in hand with Czech beer culture, where pivní chut’ovky (beer snacks) are an essential part of the drinking experience – arguably just as important as the beer itself. This is often made with hermelín, a soft Czech cheese from Sedlcany – 25 miles south of Prague – that is akin to camembert. It’s usually served with a couple of thick slices of freshly baked rye bread and always a large, ice-cold pilsner. A tangy, spiced, creamy snack that takes to beer like a duck to water. You will need a 500ml container or wide jar. Linzer cookies (Linecké cukroví) Two buttery biscuits sandwiched together with a gooey layer of jam: the textures here balance carefully on the line between beautifully crumbly and deliciously melty. As visually appealing as they are tasty, these cookies are an ideal sweet snack. Note that these need to be made the day before you want to eat or serve them, and the dough also needs chilling time. They are perfect to pack into a box to give as a gift, or just to keep on hand for your afternoon cup of tea. You can make mini ones as a part of your Christmas biscuit offering, too.
The 10 best festive UK day trips for food lovers
Soak up the yuletide atmosphere at one of these foodie hot spots across the UK, from artisan markets to twinkling wine bars, indie boutiques and more
Soak up the festive spirit without staying the night with a day trip that promises stellar food, indie shopping galore and a twinkling, wintry atmosphere. Each of these locations make an inspired day trip destination for food lovers, with plenty of independent boutiques, stalls brimming with hand-crafted wares and foodie hot spots which come to life at Christmas. All are easily reached by train or car from across the UK. Discover more winter travel inspiration with our guide to the best ski destinations or the best winter sun destinations for something a little warmer. For more like this, check out our guides to the best UK city breaks and our favourite European hidden gem hotels. 10 festive UK day trips for food lovers Bruton This chill, boho Somerset town provides all the carols, craft stalls and late shopping needed for a chilled recharge before a busy Christmas period. Browse its stylish interiors and lifestyle stores, from Philo & Philo to Smouk and New Romantic, for one-of-a-kind gifts, then walk up the footpath, past allotments, to the Hauser & Wirth for the free art exhibition. Art aside, Bruton is also known for its clutch of renowned restaurants, such as Michelin-starred Osip, Italian Da Costa, artisan bakery, wood-fired pizzeria and all-day restaurant, At the Chapel, Matt’s Kitchen and nearby communal barn dining experience, Horrell & Horrel. Seasonally wrapped in a huge bow, boutique hotel Number One embraces the spirit of the season (and recently launched a new farm-to-table restaurant, Briar, with chef Sam Lomas). For a longer trip and the chance to walk off any gastro-indulgence, choose from Bruton's many brilliant walking routes on its doorstep. Nearby National Trust estate, Stourhead offers a Christmas light trail, returning from 29 November. York York transforms into a festive playground each winter, with the York Christmas Market (12 November-21 December) bringing wooden chalets to the medieval city centre. Expect food producers selling everything from spiced apple chutney to pecan and amaretto brownies alongside local crafts and artisan products, with over 80% of the businesses coming from Yorkshire, as a way to celebrate local producers. If you’re feeling the chill, cosy up by the fire inside Thor’s Tipi and wrap your hands around a mulled wine. Before the day is over, squeeze in a pit stop at Betty’s Tea Rooms in St. Helen’s Square for signature creamy hot chocolates, or sample street food at the Shambles Market food court (highlights include savoury galettes from the Krep Truck and arancini from Pizzoli). For a sit-down meal, Skosh is not far from the markets, serving inventive small plates and seasonal cocktails on one of York’s most historic streets. Cosgriff & Sons bakery is a must for seasonal pastries and sourdough focaccia sandwiches. End your day with a glass of wine or seasonal cocktail at boutique hotel Malmaison’s rooftop bar - its impressive views over the famous cathedral marks a fitting close to a day of exploring. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2025/11/GettyImages-1869686823-38fba6a.jpg" width="4592" height="3448" alt="York, UK - Nov 23 2021: Tourists and shoppers in the Shambles area of the City of York in northern England. On the side of an old timbered building, the road sign of the old street of Little Shambles." title="Tourists and shoppers in the Shambles area of the City of York" /> Frome This vibrant market town is renowned for its independent spirit and creative flair that comes into its own over the Christmas period. Winding cobbled streets flanked by stone buildings set the scene, and the town’s infectious energy is especially palpable when the festive lights are twinkling. The jewel in the town's events calendar, The Frome Independent (7 December) – a monthly market running from March to December – transforms the town centre into a treasure trove for unique, hand-crafted presents and local delicacies to take home for the Christmas table. Streets are closed off to make way for stalls brimming with one-of-a-kind wares, from contemporary craft and designer-made homewares to ethical clothing and artisan jewellery. Attractive street food options for refuelling include Tibetan Momos, stuffed souvlaki and grilled cheese (all made using West Country ingredients) – order as you soak up the twinkly atmosphere and live music on the ‘village green’. Food lovers can also fill their totes on funky local produce, from cheese and cider to vegan cakes and kimchi. The town's cluster of independent cafés and restaurants offer plenty of cosy corners to warm up in. On Cheap Street, Cafe Flora tempts passers-by with freshly-filled focaccia and real hot chocolates, while at the top of Catherine Street, Bistro Lotte serves classic French dishes such as charcuterie platters, coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon using locally sourced ingredients. Bath Bath’s cobbled streets and picturesque Georgian streets are a festive stunner, especially when the beloved Christmas Market (28 November-14 December), nestled amongst the city's most famous sights – the spa, Roman Baths and Bath Abbey – fills the city with more than 160 independent and sustainable retailers, offering everything from baked goods, warming drinks and artisan gifts. Start your day at Landrace Bakery with a fresh-from-the-oven cinnamon bun, then wander through the historic Circus crescent to Berdoulat, a grade-II listed food emporium selling artisan wares, shelves of small-batch wines and spices from the jar. Amble back down into town, via the sweeping grandeur of the Royal Crescent, to refuel with serious espressos at Colonna & Smalls, or while away an hour at contemporary tea house Comins. For a pre-dinner tipple, The Elder offers barrel-aged negronis in plush, cosy surrounds. If it’s dinner you’re after, tuck into a seasonal five-course menu at plant-based restaurant OAK, offering views of an unseen angle of Bath Abbey. The city's independent food and drink stores, boutiques and designer stores ensure shoppers are well catered for. Don’t miss Christmas shopping on and around Milsom Street, where you can find notable indies like cheesemonger Paxton & Whitfield, chocolatier Neuhaus, and, for wine and spirits, Amathus. For a spin on the ice, head to the annual Bath on Ice (open from 14 November 2025 until 4 January 2026). Tewinbury Farm Slow down and embrace the joy and sparkle of the season at Tewinbury Farm, located just 30 minutes outside of London in the Hertfordshire countryside. This 700-acre countryside retreat transforms into a glittering wonderland with a woodland light trail (running from Thursday 27 November), making a wholesome family outing, festive catch up or winter date. You can expect fireside marshmallow toasting, a horse box bar serving warming mulled wine and a riverside Après Ski Bar with live music, seasonal cocktails and street food each evening. Christmas afternoon teas with carols, feasts from The Cowshed & Granary Kitchen and Christmas parties are also on offer (or make a weekend of it with a festive stay from £175). Edinburgh With its narrow, winding streets and medieval buildings, Edinburgh’s old-world feel means it's far too easy to absorb the magic of the season. Southside's Marchmont and Newington neighbourhoods are the city’s festive (and more relaxed) foodie hot spots, with historic streets dotted with independent shops and local boutiques for gift hunting. Start with a pastry at bakery-café Kate’s or head to Pomelo for hand-ripped noodles and vibrant Asian sharing plates. Nàdair offers Scandi-style dishes using foraged Scottish produce, or for a special dinner book a table at Michelin-starred Condita for a tasting menu rooted in Scottish ingredients. If you're in the mood for buzzy festive fun, don’t miss the Christmas markets in central Princes Street Gardens for shopping galore, ice skating as well as a Hogmanay torchlight procession as part of the city’s winter festival. Otherwise, perkily pretty Stockbridge takes care of all your produce needs, from delis and patisseries to cheesemongers, butchers and bakeries. Retro-chic wine bar Smith and Gertrude is also worth checking for good wine, cheese and company. Heckfield Place, Hampshire There's possibly no better way to embrace the warmth of the season than with a dose of festive creativity, and Heckfield Place is an exemplary place to do it. Inviting guests to treat the house as their home, heartfelt traditions include a wreath making workshop (4 December) in the Glass House with Heckfield Place’s resident florist, using foliage and flowers from the Home Farm and estate. Or craft whimsical decorations from foraged materials gathered across its 438-acre estate at the festive fairy decoration workshop (7 December), complete with tea, coffee and cake. For those who fancy a spirited afternoon of mixing, shaking and bottling cocktails, the festive cocktail gift making workshop (14 December) with the Heckfield bar team includes making your own spiced daiquiri, margarita and espresso martini (making quite the toast to festivities). Winchester Winchester’s cathedral grounds are transformed each year by its German-inspired Christmas market (22 November–22 December), lined with wooden chalets offering glühwein, street food and handmade crafts. Outside of the market, coffee aficionados can geek out at Coffee Lab Academy – pair one of their speciality coffees with a freshly baked sourdough toastie. For a post-market nibble, stop by family-run Cabinet Rooms for a cheeseboard and glass from its discerning wine list, or perhaps a seasonal cocktail, such as its Montreal negroni. Or book a table at The Wykeham Arms for a classic Sunday roast – a short walk from the house Jane Austen once lived in, this 18th century coaching inn boasts beautiful curved, Georgian bow doors, a cosy but bright bar and a separate dining room decorated with wonky framed photos, Persian rugs and gnarled oak chairs. Relaxing with a drink by one of their original fireplaces is a merry way to while away an hour or so. Norwich Norwich, with its endless historic layers, looks particularly picturesque in winter – check the Insta-perfect cobbled Elm Hill – while offering a fab mix of food and indie shopping. Norwich's Lanes is a particularly vibrant, walkable hotspot of streets and alleys with indie boutiques aplenty, including sustainable slow-fashion store Atwin, Elm homewares and Bowhill & Elliott, makers of luxurious house slippers since 1874. There's also the legendary Jarrolds independent department store for reliable gifts. Shopping aside, the area is abundant in good food and drink. Start your day with a pastry from Bread Source bakery. For lunch, tuck into fresh pasta at Yard or classic French bistro fare at L’hexagone. As evening falls, book a table at Brix and Bones for live-fire cooking and next-level steaks or enjoy a modern British menu at Benedicts. The city is also home to a host of Christmas fairs and markets — perfect for picking up last-minute foodie gifts. Brighton It may known as a free-spirited seaside destination, but Brighton, particularly the Lanes, exudes a festive buzz in winter with its huddle of indie shops dusted in fairy lights. Lost in the Lanes makes a solid starting point for a seasonal brunch before exploring the area's string of independent shops. Browse the boutiques before heading to Shelter Hall on the promenade for a pitstop lunch. Soak up the sea views, then take a postprandial stroll along the beach. Elsewhere, Unbarred brewery's terrace is a local favourite for craft beer and Neapolitan-style pizza from Fatto a Mano. In the evening, head back to the Lanes for Mediterranean-inspired small plates at Burnt Orange or settle in at Bincho Yakitori for authentic Japanese small plates. For an unparalleled skate around the ice, the Royal Pavilion Ice Rink is a must.
10 premium hot chocolates in London to try this festive season
Fight the winter blues and treat yourself to one of these handcrafted hot chocolates, expertly blended for a bespoke and luxury experience
As the temperature drops and Christmas lights start to twinkle, there’s nothing more comforting than wrapping your hands around a cup of thick, silky hot chocolate. London is home to a bundle of independent cafés stirring up luxurious versions of this classic winter warmer – read on to discover where to find the most indulgent hot chocolates this festive season. Recreate a rich and creamy hot chocolate in the comfort of your kitchen with our hot chocolate recipes, including a chocolate orange twist and boozy alternative. Or seek more ways to make the most of the season with our four festive UK city getaways perfect for shopping, eating and exploring and these magical winter travel experiences for food lovers. Barnabys, Covent Garden (and Tottenham Court Road and City of London) This handmade chocolate shop may be known for its thick, gooey chocolate bars, but its newer range of hot chocolates, using real chocolate, are just as noteworthy. Available in three flavours – classic, malt and peanut butter and caramel – all offerings are equally drool-worthy. Dip a bar of the weekend special into your cup and you'll notice that the chocolate pools in the bottom – just heavenly. barnabybars.com Dark Sugars, Greenwich A visit to Dark Sugars is a sensory experience, with their viral hot chocolate poured thick and topped with generous shavings of their own dark, milk or white chocolate. Each cup is a spectacle, crowned with curls of chocolate that melt into the drink, creating a multi-layered, ultra-rich treat. For hot chocolate aficionados, this one’s a no-brainer.⁠ darksugars.co.uk Chin Chin Desserts, Soho Chin Chin's team of dessert alchemists ensures everything is handmade in their Soho development kitchen, from theatrical cookie dough pie sundaes to boundary-pushing potato soft serve. Its unashamedly decadent hot chocolates are finished with gooey, flame-torched marshmallows, and festive specials from previous years include the snowball cookie hot chocolate, where a raspberry-filled coconut marshmallow sensually melts into the steaming chocolate. instagram.com/chinchinicecream The Nook, Hampstead There's possibly no nicer way to spend a London afternoon than mooching around leafy Hampstead with a hot chocolate in hand. Secure the goods at The Nook, a charming drinks and bites bar on a cosy little corner of Hampstead Heath. The team craft luxury chocolate milks by melting Belgium chocolate with steamed milk, resulting in a sweetly silky drink. Choose from six chocolate strengths, from 28% all the way up to 80%. Milk and cream is from The Estate Dairy and fresh roasted marshmallows from Kensal Sugar Kitchen. The list of specials is up there with some of the best, such as the Pistachio, which sees pistachio paste mixed into the chocolate. thenookhampstead.co.uk Mello by Chin Chin Ice cream, Covent Garden London's first marshmallow bar, complete with a viral-worthy marshmallow drawer, is fast becoming one of the city's hottest spots for a well earned 'sweet treat'. From the team at @chinchinicecream, you can expect smooth, nutty handcrafted sips capped with blowtorched marshmallows, with options including a hazelnut s’mores and even a frozen hot chocolate. instagram.com/mellodeluxe Qima Cafe, Fitzrovia Claiming to be the UK’s first tree-to-cup café, this smart coffee shop pays just as much attention to its hot chocolate as it does to coffee. Expect rich yet well-rounded cups, starring a creamy combination of single-origin 72% dark chocolate from the Solomon Islands and Valrhona's 70% Guanaja. It's then accented by a sweet dose of brown sugar, depth of cocoa powder and a final sprinkle of sea salt to keep the sweetness in check. Pair your cocoa with one of the flaky pastries on the counter. qimacafe.com Venchi, Covent Garden (and Richmond, King's Road and more) Find this Italian chocolate boutique and cafeteria right in the middle of Covent Garden. The signature hazelnut hot chocolate, poured from a tap and finished with a scattering of chopped nuts, is unabashedly rich, and may just be the thickest cup of cocoa going (and incomparable to shop-bought powder). There's even the option to drink its hot chocolate poured over ice cream, served in an elegant cocktail glass with lashings of whipped cream and a shot of Venchi's hazelnut chocolate. venchi.com Melt, Notting Hill (and Holland Park) This boutique chocolatier in West London stirs up hot chocolate with luxury front of mind, melting its signature house-made chocolate into thick, glossy, sippable heaven. Customers can choose their preferred chocolate, mix up flavours and top up with a flamed marshmallow for extra indulgence. meltchocolates.com William Curley, Soho This orange-painted boutique by Scottish chocolatier William Curley is a charming spot which promises cosy, comforting vibes. Order the rich, velvety classic or experiment with an Aztec chilli, Mayan spiced or gianduja variety. Whichever you choose, you can be certain that your beverage will be crafted with care and precision. williamcurley.co.uk Knoops, Richmond Despite the fact that multiple locations are sprouting across London, Knoops still takes hot chocolate incredibly seriously. Offering a menu of different cocoa percentages, origins and milk, you are free to choose your strength — from a creamy 34% milk to a punchy 85% dark — and add custom extras like orange zest, chilli or sea salt. Though the stores tend to fill up at peak times, each cup is still expertly blended for a bespoke, luxury experience. knoops.com
From romantic markets dotted around a forest-lined lake to family-friendly markets in French towns, here are 9 of the best continental Christmas markets for the festive season
Looking for the best Christmas markets? Want to find the best European food markets? Read on for 9 of the best continental Christmas markets, then discover the best spots for winter sun and our favourite foodie city breaks by train. Brussels, Belgium Head to Brussels for Christmas markets filled with freshly fried frites, warm waffles and chocolatiers galore. Running from 28 November until 1 January 2025, the Christmas markets spread over several squares in the centre of the city with over 200 chalets, a towering Christmas tree, an ice skating rink, curling and a ferris wheel to take in views over the city. Choirs perform on an igloo-shaped stage at weekends and there's a Santas Workshop with children's activities. From 5pm to 10pm every day, a five minute video and light show is projected onto the tower of the City Hall every 30 minutes. This year's theme is 'Winter Wonders'. Chalets serve warming tartiflette, glühwein, thick hot chocolates and waffles – discover the difference between the two waffles styles, Liege and Brussels waffles, by trying both, naturally. brussels.be <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2024/11/Brussels-market-232cb1d.jpg" width="2118" height="1412" alt="Christmas tree in the iconic "Grand Place" (literally "Big Square") in the centre of Brussels. Built mainly between 1696 and 1704 the square has beautiful façades, with a mixture of baroque and Renaissance architecture. During Christmas evening, there's a light festival at dusk, as well as christmas markets." title="Magic Christmas light at Brussels Grand Place Belgium, Europe" /> Vienna, Austria You're spoilt for choice with Christmas markets to explore in Vienna, with festivities springing up in every square and palace gardens across the city and over 20 official markets. The Viennese Dream Christmas Market is the largest, held on the square in front of the city hall, with light installations, plenty of mulled wine and choirs singing carols at the weekends. Visit both the Schönbrunn Palace and Belvedere Palace for smart markets in the palace grounds. Hot punch (mulled wine, but also mulled amaretto, gin or even mulled Aperol) will keep your hands warm. Try langos – fried dough topped with sour cream and grated cheese, and hot kartoffelpuffer – freshly fried crispy potato pancakes. For something sweet, kaiserschmarrn is shredded fluffy pancakes served with plenty of icing sugar. austria.info Lisbon, Portugal Sweet aromas of roast chestnuts fill the air in the Portuguese capital from 11 November (St Martin’s Day). Grab a paper cone and wander the steep, cobbled streets, joining locals in corner kiosks as they shot cherry liqueur (ginja). Rossio Square comes to life in December with wooden huts in its Christmas market, as does the old Campo Pequeno bull ring, that hosts exclusively Portuguese artisans. The technicolour designs of Conserveira de Lisboa’s tinned fish make pretty stocking fillers to take home for loved ones, as do pastéis de nata scented lip balms and hand creams from Lisbon beauty brand Benamôr. visitlisbon.com Krakow, Poland Only a two hour flight from most UK airports, Krakow offers a picture perfect Christmas market experience. The Krakow Christmas market is centred in and around Krakow’s Main Square with over 80 huts, plus a main stage for festive entertainment. Foodies will find mulled beer alongside mulled wine, spiced beetroot soups, hot sausages and tender roasted pork knuckles. Pierogi (Polish dumplings) are a must try, with stalls selling wide varieties of fillings. Bruges, Belgium Bruges brings the fairytale festive charm with medieval buildings, winding streets and boats floating down the canal. Bruges' Christmas markets are known as 'Winter Glow' celebrations and two markets take over the city in December: the Market Square offers traditional Christmas market charm and the Simon Stevin Square is filled with crafts to buy for souvenirs. As well as the markets, there is ice skating, a magical lights trail and decorations throughout the city. The air is filled with the scent of fresh waffles and stopping into tiny chocolatiers for treats to take home is a must. Combine a trip to Bruges with stopping in Brussels for double the Christmas market fun. visitbruges.be Arras, France If you're craving a quick Christmas weekend getaway this December, look no further than the charming historic town of Arras. A mere 2-hour journey from London will transport you from the hustle and bustle of city life to the enchanting Christmas markets with more than 140 stalls nestled across three magnificent Flemish-Baroque-styled squares. These markets, while not the largest in Europe, boast a delightful array of attractions for all ages – from a vintage carousel and ice rink for the kids, to delectable local treats like chicory conserve, honey and craft beers. arraspaysdartois.com Bled, Slovenia A misty Lake Bled and the tiny, church-topped island at its centre form the backdrop to one of Slovenia’s most romantic Christmas markets, the Winter Fairytale, open from 28 Nov-4 January. Walk beside the forest-lined lake, following a route marked by flickering fire torches and watch a team of divers ceremonially recover the lake’s sunken bell on Christmas Day, then hit the market stalls to track down festive gifts, and food and drink typical of Slovenia’s Gorenjska region. Try a golden fried potato snack called pocrt krompir, or a slice of potica – a swirly cake made from paper-thin sweet dough and creamed nuts, rolled as tight as a pinwheel biscuit – but leave room for Bled cream cake, a neat little square made from layers of butter puff pastry, vanilla cream and whipped cream. bled.si Riga, Latvia The air is sweet with roast almonds, mulled wine and glazed gingerbread at Riga’s Old Town Christmas Market, open from 28 November. Way back in 1510, the Latvian capital was one of the first two cities in the world (the other was Tallinn) to display a Christmas tree in the way we do today – the supposed spot, in Cathedral Square, is where the festive market now stands. Little wooden huts sell everything from hand-knitted mittens to carved wooden spoons and piping-hot “grey peas”. Despite the uninspiring name, the latter is actually a delicious combination of sticky-sweet onions, Latvian peas and crispy bacon, fried together until fragrant. You can also eat sausages with sauerkraut and drink hot cocktails made with Riga Black Balsam (a herbal liqueur made from vodka infused by black pepper and valerian). vzt.lv/ Black Forest, Germany Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market takes place, as the name suggests, in a geological chasm beneath a railway viaduct in Germany’s Black Forest. Among its 40 or so snow-capped cabins are those selling everything from cuckoo clocks to cherry-topped Black Forest gâteau, Black Forest-smoked trout and venison, and flammkuchen – a German-style flatbread topped with bacon, onion and cheese. To drink, it's all about a theatrical glass of feuerzangenbowle: mulled wine topped with a square of rum-soaked sugarloaf which is set alight as it’s served. While you shop, frosty blue lights bounce off the Höllentalbahn railway line 40 metres above you, and for a special treat you can hike to the Christmas market via the Löffeltal walk, a 3km trail starting from Hinterzarten village (there are shuttle buses back, if you’re knocked out by all that feuerzangenbowle). hochschwarzwald.de Trento, Italy Split across Piazza Fiera and Piazza Cesare Battisti, Trento’s Christmas market is so dedicated to local produce and sustainability (there’s a ban on plastic bags) that the city has earned itself the reputation of Italy’s Città del Natale. Browse nearly 100 stalls selling regional specialities, including dried orange slices, local sheep’s cheese, grappa and mostarda di rosa canina, a Christmassy condiment made from rosehip berries and winter spices. Go hungry – there are shallow-fried potato pancakes called tortel di patate to try, as well as polenta wedges, panettone and apple strudel (a nod to the city’s previous life as part of the Austro-Hungarian empire). Sit and eat awhile, enjoying (if you’re lucky) views of the snow-dusted Dolomites beyond the city. visittrentino.info Bilbao, Spain Traditional Basque products hog the limelight at Bilbao’s Santo Tomás Fair, held on December 21 every year (officially the first day of Christmas in this part of Spain). Buy homemade cider, cheese, chorizo, honey and ever-so-slightly-sparkling txakoli wine from local farmers, then hit the street-food stalls for corn flour tortillas, txistorra pork sausages and rosquillas – cake-like ring donuts, often dipped in chocolate and dusted in icing sugar. There’s always an exhibition of farm animals and plenty of live music to enjoy, including those from bertsolaris (singers of bertso, a Basque form of musical verse) and txalapartaris (they make rhythmic music using wooden sticks and planks). tourism.euskadi.eus Bologna, Italy The Fiera di Natale is Bologna’s biggest wintertime celebration, running right through until January 7. On New Year’s Eve, amidst the bustle of Piazza Maggiore’s street market, a statue of an old man (or an old woman on leap years) is burnt to symbolise the ousting of the old and beginning anew. Stalls are set out underneath the gaze of San Pietro Cathedral, selling ornate Christmas decorations, handmade nativity scenes, roast nuts, chocolate-dipped orange peel and torrone (citrus-scented nougat, studded with almonds). Plus you’ll discover Bologna’s version of panettone: a dense fruit cake made with brandy, dried figs and cocoa, then brushed with alchermes or saba liqueur (a sort of syrup made by slow-cooking wine in copper cauldrons). bolognawelcome.com Angers, France An illuminated ferris wheel, vintage merry-go-round, ice-skating rink and colourful light show (projected onto Angers Cathedral) makes this French market ideal for families. Even Santa Claus shows up each year, to receive the keys to the city from the Mayor of Angers. Stalls are set out on the Place du Ralliement in front of the Grand Theatre selling food and drink typical of the Loire Valley – pommes d’amour (like toffee apples, but coloured red), nougat, vin chaud, gingerbread houses and warm galettes – while the nearby Maison du Vin offers tastings and sales of 70 local Loire Valley wines until 6:30pm most evenings. Better still, at a corner kiosk, you can get any purchased gift-wrapped in pretty paper. marchedenoelangers.com Torun, Poland Head to the Polish city of Torun if you want to get your Christmas market fix away from the crowds. Warm nippy hands around firepits, drink mulled wine spiked with warm honey, watch old movies in the Market Square and snap a photo with a life-size nutcracker. Food-wise you can indulge in everything from dried sausages to oscypek, a smoked sheep’s milk cheese that’s served warm with cranberry sauce. Whatever you do, don’t miss the peppery gingerbread – Torun has been making it in traditional moulds since the 14th century. Buy beautiful, intricate examples of the craft, or simple heart-shaped gingerbread cookies filled with plum jam. You can even learn how to make your own during the Christmas period, at the Museum of Torun Gingerbread. jarmarktorun.pl/ Tallinn, Estonia Estonia's enchanting Christmas markets in Tallinn beckon as snow blankets the landscape. Dating back to 1441, when the Brotherhood of the Blackheads introduced the first Christmas tree to Tallinn's town square, this tradition continues to captivate. From 21 November - 28 December, Tallinn's medieval Old Town and Tartu host festive markets blending holiday cheer with Estonian charm. Discover over 100 stalls in the UNESCO Old Town, offering hand-knit woollens, crafted woodwork and festive decorations. Indulge in traditional Estonian treats like black pudding and sauerkraut, and savour the magic from 10am to 10pm daily – an unforgettable blend of history, tradition and holiday joy. visitestonia.com/en/tallinn-christmas-market Image credits: Getty Images More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Margate: where locals eat and drink in the Kentish seaside town
Explore this cool coastal Kent town via elegant fish suppers, plump Whitstable rock oysters and scoops of rhubarb and custard gelato
Looking for Margate restaurants? Want to know the locals' favourite fish and chips in this Kentish seaside town? Check out our favourite places to eat and drink in Margate below, then peruse more seaside holidays for food lovers including the best restaurants in Deal and where to eat in Brighton. The best places to eat and drink in Margate Angela’s – for elegant seafood Two small dining rooms separated by a central kitchen, Angela’s is as no-frills as the menu, which prides itself on simplicity and minimal waste (even the tabletops have been fashioned out of recycled plastic bags). Plump Whitstable rock oysters, mussels with cider and garlic, whole roasted plaice and thornback ray with brown butter are just some of the reasons why Angela’s is still in rude health after more than half a century. angelasofmargate.com Forts Café – for vibey brunch This popular spot is always bustling with local creatives catching up over some of the best brunch dishes in town. The focaccia sandwiches are legendary on the Margate food scene, with fillings such as braised brisket with pickled chilli and herby aioli, jerk jackfruit with pineapple and corn slaw, and the epic bacon sarnie. Baristas work wonders with speciality coffee beans roasted by a rotation of the country’s best, from Manchester’s Ancoats to Somerset-based Round Hill Roastery. @fortscoffee Pomus – for Sunday feasting Unassumingly located in Margate’s revamped shopping precinct, Ryan Jacovides’s bistro and wine bar has all the warm, friendly feels of a neighbourhood favourite. Prime spot is perched on a mustard-hued stool at the burnt orange counter, so you can peruse the bottles on the shelves behind and watch head chef Aaron Costen and his team look after the impressive cooking. Pop in for a herbaceous rosemary-infused negroni, house-infused vermouth spritz or glass of floral Kentish sparkling wine, or bed in for the Sunday sharing feast. Things kick off with a selection of snacks such as mackerel rillettes, soy and ginger popcorn chicken with zippy mango and habanero sauce, gobstopper olives and squidgy focaccia (that just so happens to be gluten free, as is the whole menu). Next comes a huge sharing cut (on our visit Tomahawk pork in a rich, buttery beef stock sauce) accompanied by a generous spread of sides – bubbling ramekins of cheesy dauphinoise potatoes, pancetta-flecked sprouts and chilli-laced mangetout. Elegant puddings might be blackberry-topped dark chocolate ganache or tarte tatin with miso ice cream. A third of the cocktails are creative non-alcoholic options such as a refreshing coastal spritz, and there’s also an extensive list of wines chalked up on the blackboard alongside frames of quirky art to liven things up. pomus.co.uk Sargasso – for harbourside lunches The owner of east London’s neighbourhood restaurant, Brawn, also takes pride in this seaside restaurant at Margate’s iconic pier destination, Harbour Arm. Enjoy lobster spaghetti and Catalan salt cod salad with a quintessential view back over the harbour to the Old Town. Ingredients are sourced locally, many grown on musician and restaurant partner Matthew Herbert’s farm 10 miles from the town, with wines from Europe’s boutique vineyards. sargasso.bar Mannings Seafood – for seaside picnics This seafood shack perched on the harbour is a Margate legend. Must-trys include the simple, fresh crab sandwich, and little pots of cockles, whelks and prawns. Let owners Trev and Val make up a platter for you or take a plate of oysters and a bottle of champagne to the beach for the ultimate seaside picnic. @manningsseafoodmargate Oast – for artisan bakes Be it stone-ground heritage wheat flours from Kent’s Nonington Farms or skills honed at Scotland’s Twelve Triangles, baker Will Moss and co-founder Charlotte Keeys have drawn on the best from near and far to create their hit bakery-café. Sourdough breads are forefront but Will’s baguettes, made using a starter and fresh yeast, are prized among Margate’s French community. “Sourdough provides flavour, fresh yeast a light soft crumb,” says Will. There is a distinct Swedish influence in Oast’s knotted buns and sandwiches. The buns are often flavoured with buttery cinnamon or cardamom, then glazed with syrup and pearl sugar. But flavours can broaden to include, for example, chocolate, orange and cardamom, or seasonal fruits and custard. oastmargate.co.uk Peter's Fish Factory – for fish and chips Ask locals where you can get the best fish and chips in Margate, and they’ll point you in the direction of Peter’s Fish Factory, overlooking the seafront. There will be queues, but the salty, crisp and golden chips, waft of malt vinegar and perfectly cooked cod is more than worth the wait. Everything is served in boxes – so you won’t have to negotiate soggy, scorching chip paper on your lap, and you’ll get change from a fiver. facebook.com/petersfishfactorymargate Sète – for French wine bar feels Natalia Ribbe of Ladies of Restaurant fame has curated a cosy wine bar that offers a rare blend of fun vibes and serious wines. The eclectic, revolving wine list puts the spotlight on female winemakers, Eastern European vineyards and Kentish growers. Taking inspiration from French neighbourhood tabacs, sharing snacks include pâté en croute with pickled gherkins, potted smoked prawns and French onion tart, plus superb Oast baguette and butter. In the dining room at the back larger sharing plates such as crispy lamb with grilled radicchio, taramasalata with crushed new potatoes and elegant dover sole meunière are served from a small open kitchen, giving feels of being at a friend's for dinner. There's also a surprisingly large, sun-soaked courtyard at the back where Natalia and team host wine tastings, events and of course lunch walk-ins too. setemargate.com Bottega Caruso – for Italian classics Harry Ryder and his Italian wife Simona met when they worked in London restaurants, but it wasn’t until Harry visited Simona’s family in Campania that he realised the Italian food he had tasted in the UK wasn’t anything like the real thing. “I tried her family’s tomato sauce, the pasta, the cheeses, wines and oil – I’d never tasted anything like it. I joked that we should start bringing it back to the UK, and that’s what we’ve done with Bottega Caruso.” This small Italian kitchen and shop started out as a pop-up stall at The Goods Shed in Canterbury, selling fresh pasta and Simona’s family sauces. Popular dishes on the menu include verdura e fagioli – a slow-cooked stew of greens, organic beans and smoked chilli – and handmade cavatelli pasta with a meaty Neapolitan ragu comprising slow-cooked beef shin, top rib, pork belly, pork rump, fennel sausages, meatballs and Simona’s family tomato sauce. bottegacaruso.com Little Swift – for wines and cocktails Bottle shop, deli and wine bar, this seafront hangout has an eclectic offering. Work your way through personally recommended wines by the glass and pair with a charcuterie board livened up with cucumber pickles from Kentish forager Karly’s Kitchen. When the weather’s playing nice, take a frozen margarita or piña colada to the beach or join local pals catching up on the terrace. @littleswiftct9 The Greedy Cow – for casual lunches For a seriously good sourdough toastie make a beeline to The Greedy Cow. Available from noon onwards (only breakfasts are served in the mornings), we like the chorizo version, laced with fresh orange. Or go for a Gents Burger, made with black pudding, sausage, bacon, cheddar, chutney and beetroot and served with fennel coleslaw. Eat in the upstairs café or ask for your order to go. thegreedycow.co.uk The Two Halves – for craft beer With its prime spot on the seafront this craft beer bar is often busy and might take some time to make your way to the bar here but it’s a great place to try locals brews from breweries such as Canterbury Ales, Gadds and Shepherd Neame. @TheTwoHalvesAle The Old Kent Market – for iconic food market vibes The Old Kent Market is a newly opened food emporium just across the road from the Turner Contemporary (you can’t miss it – it’s painted bright red). Inside you're greeted by a full-size red bus that’s home to a cafe but don't jump on the first foodie offering you see. Venture further inside and you’ll find stalls selling freshly made sushi, pulled pork and takeaway pies plus local breads baked daily on site and locally grown fruit and veg. theoldkentmarket.com Local neighbourhood spotlight: Cliftonville A short walk out of the town centre, this independent, artistic area is bookmarked by Margate’s landmark lido sign and striking Botany Bay, famous for its rock pools and chalk rock formations. Join creatives for brunch at Forts, known for its focaccia bacon sarnies, or go for a proper fry up at The Dalby Café, before browsing the bars, shops and galleries along Cliff Terrace, including stylish fragrance store, Haeckels (which also sells a delicious seaweed tea made from locally foraged seaweed and sold in gorgeous glass jars). A few streets back from the seafront is Northdown Road, home to some of Margate’s friendliest independent food businesses. Mori Mori is a cosy spot for tucking into sushi boxes and ramen, The Grain Grocer has your organic groceries covered, and Oast bakes a fabulous rotation of sourdough and sweet buns. Head back to the seafront to work up an appetite by strolling along the coastal path to Botany Bay or embracing the sea water with some lengths in Walpole Tidal Pool. Back inland from Walpole Bay, you can warm up with coffee and vinyl at Cliffs or make your way through Sète’s eclectic curation of wines and cheeseboards (they also throw a casual BBQ in the garden every Sunday in August). Where to stay in Margate No 42 Guesthouse Margate’s recent reinvention has seen it become a popular destination for food lovers, with the opening of several independent restaurants such as Angela’s, Sète and Sargasso. Now this seaside hotel, part of the small Guesthouse group, also in Bath, York and Brighton, provides another reason to visit the Kent coastal resort – its Pearly Cow restaurant and rooftop terrace providing magnificent views across the channel. Pearly Cow focusses on seafood platters, fish and grills. Whitstable oysters and salt cod tacos make a good sharing starter, salt-aged steaks are prepared in the open kitchen, with whipped bone marrow butter and beef fat chips – this is the kind of easy food, prepared simply, you want to enjoy on the coast. The reasonable wine list includes a decent house cava. Breakfast is similarly classic, with local Brogdale sausages in the full English, alongside a decent eggs royale and organic porridge with honey and pistachio. Make use of the communal pantry for early morning tea, coffee and pastries, or late-night snacks – huge jars of traditional sweet shop treats like lemon sherbets and chocolate bars. Bedrooms are light and sunny, with neutral colours and fabrics, made contemporary with touches such as a record player and choice of vinyl, modern prints and beach-hut-shaped tea and coffee station. Bramley toiletries and power showers are very welcome after a day on the beach. In the lounge bar, Dreamland’s ferris wheel is referenced in its wall decorations, with raffia lightshades and touches of aqua adding beach house vibes. B&B from £170 per night. Check availability on their website. Fort Road Hotel One of Margate’s iconic seafront buildings opposite Turner Contemporary gallery has been restored to its former life as a hotel. Design is at the forefront throughout, with pieces from artists with Kentish ties and vintage Scandinavian furniture (Danish teak mirrors, beech chairs, rosewood tables) giving each room its own unique character. Bold-hued tiles adorn neat bathrooms, kitted out with seaweed-infused products from local spa Haeckels. Local connections extend to the food and drink options, served in the smart, intimate ground-floor restaurant. Choose between Kentish wines from the likes of Simpsons vineyard or a local gin (Greensand Ridge is herbaceous while Dockyard has notes of citrus and spice). Dishes include trout lifted with Hinxden Farm Dairy crème fraîche and skate wing bathing in beurre noisette and brown shrimp. Breakfast is a real treat, with bacon sarnies offering a satisfying crunch courtesy of hot baguettes from Oast Bakery down the road. Small touches take the hospitality to the next level. A brown paper bag of homemade cookies awaits in the room, best enjoyed with a a glass of rosé or sherry-laced hot chocolate on the rooftop while watching the sunset over the rugged coastline. Doubles from £140, check availability at fortroadhotel.com or booking.com The Reading Rooms One of the first boutique-style b&bs to open on the North Kent Coast, and one which has made great use of the fine Georgian buildings that dominate this area. In Hawley Square, just back from the old town but within strolling distance of all the main attractions, its three bedrooms pair ‘rough luxe’ styling (think fabulous beds and designer bathroom fittings but artfully distressed walls) with gloriously high ceilings and beautiful wooden floors. Breakfasts are equally special, ranging from a full English to ciabatta and bacon sandwiches or slices of toast spread with cream cheese, honey and cinnamon. And don’t miss the gourmet hot chocolate. Doubles from £142, check availability at thereadingroomsmargate.co.uk More UK travel guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge
Four festive UK city getaways for shopping, eating and exploring
Discover four of our favourite festive UK cities where you can gift shop, chill and eat magical food (plus the cool neighbourhoods you should be exploring)
Looking for a quick festive getaway which combines unique shopping with delicious food? Discover the most festive city getaways across the UK, then check out our guide to the UK's best boutique hotels for food lovers and farm stays for food lovers. Or find your new favourite neighbourhood in our top foodie neighbourhoods in 11 UK cities. Bath Milsom Street and around, Bath A Unesco World Heritage site, Bath is a festive stunner. Behind its Georgian facades, moreover, you will find incredible shopping that should cover all gift buying needs. Names like Kiehl’s, Russell & Bromley, Aesop and Lakeland cluster in and around Milsom Street, alongside notable Bath indies, such as shoemaker Chanii B or Gabucci Menswear. Foodie stops include cheesemonger Paxton & Whitfield, chocolatier Neuhaus, Green Street butcher and, for wine and spirits, Amathus. In the new Shires Yard (previously Milsom Place), you will find Coret coffee, classes at The Cookery Studio and an outpost of Bristol chef Josh Eggleton’s muchpraised, veg-led restaurant, Root. Elsewhere in Bath, other tasty options include: Corkage Handsome bottle shop, bar and dining room offering up to 60 wines by the glass to accompany seasonal sharing plates of, say, beef shin croquettes with capers and mustard, or salt-baked celeriac, burnt apple, black winter truffle, vanilla, pecorino and mint. corkagebath.com Magari Impressive fresh pasta kitchen in Shires Yard. High-quality Italian and British ingredients (Amalfi lemons, Mutti tomatoes, Cacklebean eggs, Sussex Charmer cheese) underpin competitively priced dishes of sausage ragu, pesto, carbonara and such. magaripasta.co.uk Chez Dominique A short walk from Milsom Street. Modern French and European cooking that delivers in mains of, for example, roast cod, butter beans, chorizo and tapenade, or onglet, wild garlic butter and pommes frites. chezdominique.co.uk Beckford Canteen Modern British restaurant which, since 2022, has taken Bath by storm in well executed dishes such as onion squash soup with hazelnut and sage; venison, celeriac and blackberries; and plaice in café de Paris butter. beckfordcanteen.com Norwich and Oxford Norwich Lanes, Norwich Remote enough to feel like a genuine getaway, Norwich is a city of fantastic food, fab indie shopping and endless historic layers. It also looks – check the Insta-perfect cobbled Elm Hill – particularly picturesque in winter. These features come together in Norwich Lanes, a colourful, walkable neighbourhood of streets and alleys, many home to Georgian and medieval buildings, that sits between the River Wensum and the Guildhall. Stylishly festooned at Christmas, Jarrolds independent department store is legendary. Start your gift shopping there before delving into the Lanes’ hundreds of boutiques, from sustainable slow-fashion store Atwin, Elm homewares or Lisa Angel jewellery, to Bowhill & Elliott, makers of luxurious house slippers since 1874. The Lanes are also abundant with good food and drink. Refuel at bakery Bread Source, brunch spot JC Pinto or burger joint Bun X. Later, after pre-dinner cocktails at The Drawing Rooms, pick from: Benedicts A much-loved modern British restaurant in which chef-patron Richard Bainbridge makes memorable use of regional produce in, as Christmas nears, dishes such as a spicy game pâté en croûte or a festive version of his GBM-winning Nanny Bush’s trifle. restaurantbenedicts.com Yard Fresh pastas, fastidious sauces and on-point cocktails are the draw at this buzzy walk-in only spot. Try the pappardelle with 12-hour beef shin ragu or the sausage and fennel rigatoni. yardnorwich.com L’hexagone Modern French bistro cooking from chef Thomas Aubrit. Expect dishes such as soupe à l’oignon, boeuf bourguignon and a stand-out crème brûlée. hexagonebistrofrancais.com Brix and Bones This attractive live-fire restaurant is a hit for next-level steaks (aging sides of beef are displayed in several gorgeous fridges) and chef George Wood’s modish dishes of, say, sesame pork toast with black bean emulsion or aged mutton, fermented celeriac and nasturtium. brixandbones.com East Oxford A historic gem of dreaming spires and ancient streets, Oxford is an evocative festive destination. Nearby attractions, including Blenheim Palace with its Great Court skating rink and seasonal light trail, seal this wonderland deal. But beyond this cute backdrop a different Oxford is doing its thing. East of the city centre, around Cowley Road, hip young Oxford is at play: browsing vinyl at record shop Truck, catching movies at the indie Ultimate Picture Palace and shopping at boutiques such as Scandi lifestyle store Löfgrens, and vintage clothing hub The Retro Room. Pick up foodie treats at Hamblin Bread, coffee roaster Missing Bean, health food store Wild Honey and, every Saturday, East Oxford Farmers’ and Community Market. Later, get a taste of the local scene at The Chester Arms (home of a legendary steak platter) or at these varied picks: Arbequina With its long zinc bar and lively vibe, Arbequina riffs winningly on Spanish tapas culture in plates of, for example, onion tortilla, aubergine, whipped feta, molasses and pomegranate, and ibérico de bellota pork tenderloin with mojo verde. Exciting news alert! Arbequina co-owner Rufus previously ran the acclaimed Oli’s Thai with his wife, chef Ladd Thurston, which they recently relaunched on boho Magdalen Road. Go, go, go. arbequina.co.uk Taste Tibet Spruce, stripped-back neighbourhood hang where Yeshi Jampa’s Tibetan dishes (beef momos, various curries, flatbreads, sides such as fermented mooli) have an enthusiastic following. tastetibet.com The Magdalen Arms For 16 years this gastropub has won hearts with its homemade focaccia, fresh pastas, classic cheese soufflé and feasting sharing dishes such as a seven-hour cooked lamb shoulder with dauphinoise and pickled cabbage. magdalenarms.co.uk Bigfoot With a neat line in DJs, margaritas and tacos, Bigfoot’s short menu includes taco toppings like miso oyster mushrooms, jalapeño crema and spring onion, or braised pork, pickled red onion and pineapple. bigfootoxford.com Edinburgh Edinburgh Southside, Marchmont and Newington Britain’s most Christmassy city? It is hard to look past Edinburgh which, around its central Princes Street Gardens, offers shopping galore and diversions, from ice skating to a Hogmanay torchlight procession as part of the city’s winter festival. After that excitement, chill in Edinburgh’s foodie neighbourhoods, such as Stockbridge, Leith or the simmering Southside, around Marchmont and Newington. Bordering the green Meadows and Holyrood Park (home of Arthur’s Seat) and close to the Hermitage of Braid and Blackford Hill nature reserve, the Southside boasts restorative walking country on its doorstep and cultural hotspots – notably, Summerhall Arts and music and comedy venue The Queen’s Hall. Ace places to eat include casual faves such as bakery-café Kate’s, Mara’s Picklery, contemporary sandwich shop Alby’s, and NY-inspired slice joint Sear’s Pizza. Also, these four zingers: Argile Ten-seat chef ’s counter, where engaging chef Jack Montgomery and team imaginatively deploy superb Scottish ingredients. Stand-out dishes include a slow-cooked egg (63C for 63 minutes) presented in a 96-hour cooked pressed onion broth, garnished with salted trout roe, togarashi and ibérico fat. argilerestaurant.co.uk Pomelo Chef-owner Jun Au’s modern Asian venue is loved for its cosy warmth, hand-ripped noodles and the vibrant creativity of its sharing dishes. Think roast cauliflower, Cantonese curry and spelt risotto, or scallop carpaccio, gordal olives and chilli crisp. pomelocafe.co.uk Nàdair Modish Marchmont restaurant where chefs Sarah Baldry and Alan Keery treat foraged and seasonal Scottish produce with distinctive Scandi-adjacent élan: including the likes of beautifully plated cured trout with spruce, smoked crème fraîche, pickled apple and sorrel. restaurantnadair.com Condita From individual hand-drawn menus to specialist ingredients cultivated on its owners’ Borders allotment, intimate candlelit Condita is a special experience. Chef Tyler King’s tasting menu takes the Scottish larder on a global tour in detailed dishes awarded a Michelin star in February. condita.co.uk
8 magical winter travel experiences for food lovers
From snow festivals in Japan to the northern lights in Norway, these are unforgettable foodie experiences for winter
Winter has a way of slowing life down in the gentlest of ways, setting in like a quiet spell or a morning’s frost. Days feel softer and nights longer, the darkness illuminated by the warm glow of lights. Winter gives permission to linger, to be still and to savour simple comforts, and this ethos transfers from our minds onto our plates. It’s the season for indulgence and embracing nature, whatever the weather. Here’s a list of eight magical winter experiences for food lovers that get you outdoors experiencing the best of food and nature, with a little adventure thrown in. Get hands-on with an immersive farm experience in Ireland Aiming to preserve heritage farming techniques, Willow & Lore Heritage Farm in rural County Antrim offers immersive, hands-on experiences for visitors to deeply connect with nature and rural life. Rooted in the Irish tradition of community cooperation, guests can help work the land, tend to livestock, harvest and process crops. In the kitchen, get stuck in with cooking: make butter, cook potato bread on an open fire and prepare a traditional meal, followed by a fireside ceili. Pronounced ‘kay-lee’, this is a traditional Irish gathering centred around a hearth or fireplace, where people socialise, share music, songs, stories and poetry. Book a luxury whiskey escape in the Scottish Highlands Glenmorangie House offers a magical Highland escape where whisky, design and hospitality converge for a memorable, intimate winter escape. Days might be spent foraging with the chefs, learning how to make delicious whisky cocktails, or simply strolling along the beach. In the evenings, dinner at the hotel unfolds in true “dinner party” style. It begins with guests gathering to enjoy canapés and drams around the fire. Sitting around a communal long table in the elegant dining room, a four-course menu is then served of the Highlands’ finest seasonal produce, with each dish paired with Glenmorangie’s whiskies. End the night fireside with a final dram before retiring to a cosy four-poster bed, decked in tartan, naturally. Go on a snow mobile crab safari in Norway Nowhere does winter better than Norway, where the season transforms the Arctic landscape into a playground of ice and snow. High above the Arctic Circle, embark on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure on a king crab safari day trip. The experience begins with driving your own snowmobile across vast stretches of frozen fjords and shimmering white plains, to reach the crab catching spots. If you’re lucky, you might even get a chance to see the sky ignite with the glow of the northern lights above you, dancing in waves of green and purple. Out on the ice, you’ll have the chance to haul up giant king crab traps through holes cut in the ice. These ginormous crabs, an invasive species in Norwegian waters, are as fascinating as they are enormous and can measure up to 1.5m. Returning to the Lavvo, a traditional Sami-style communal tent, your catch will be steamed over the fire and served simply with bread, butter, lemon and mayonnaise. It’s a feast you’ll remember – you’ll never again eat so much delicious crab! Discover unique delicacies in Iceland Iceland excels at quirky and offers magical winter foodie experiences that cannot be rivalled anywhere else. After a mud mask and relaxing in the mineral-rich, geothermal pools at the famed Blue Lagoon, head to restaurant Moss. Located within an 800-year-old lava cliff, Moss offers a Michelin-starred seven-course tasting menu that evolves with the seasons. The seven-course tasting menu presents a curious take on Icelandic ingredients such as sea urchin, Icelandic wasabi, lamb and Arctic char, transformed into beautifully plated dishes that reflect the island’s dramatic terrain. Time your visit to Iceland with the Þorrablót Festival: one of Iceland’s most traditional winter festivals, celebrated from mid-January to mid-February. This festival is a tribute to the Norse god Thor and involves feasting on traditional Icelandic foods such as fermented shark, smoked lamb and pickled ram’s testicles... During the festival special menus are available across the city. While the food might be an acquired taste, the experience is truly unique and offers a glimpse into Icelandic culture and history. Experience a snow festival in Japan The Sapporo Yuki Matsuri or snow festival is one of the best reasons to visit Hokkaido in Japan in winter. People flock in their tens of thousands from all over the world to see huge ice and snow sculptures which fill the squares of Odori Park in the centre of the city. Hokkaido is not only a magical winter wonderland during the festival, but also an excellent place to explore local delicacies. As the region is home to Japan’s indigenous Ainu people, head to Umizora No Haru, a unique izakaya in Sapporo that brings the flavours of authentic Ainu cuisine to life. Enjoy a carefully curated menu inspired by traditional Ainu ingredients and cooking methods, featuring dishes such as ohaw (a hearty venison or fish soup), citatap (hand-chopped raw fish) and grilled venison. The interior decor of the intimate restaurant also reflects Ainu culture, including a private dining room designed to resemble a traditional Ainu chise, or house, for an immersive dining experience. Relax in outdoor thermal baths in Budapest Few capital cities feel as magical in winter as Budapest, with grand boulevards dusted in snow and puffs of steam rising from its historic outdoor thermal baths. Spend the afternoon soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters of the Széchenyi Baths or the Ottoman-era Rudas Baths, a restorative ritual cherished by locals for centuries. After dark, step into the golden-lit dining room of Stand, one of Hungary’s Michelin-starred restaurants, where chefs Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll reimagine Hungarian classics — think venison with smoked beetroot or gulyás elevated to fine dining — paired with exceptional Tokaji wines. The wonderfully rich gulyás soup and the soft, flavoursome venison are hits, as is the ever-present somlói dessert. Celebrate 'sugaring off' in Quebec In winter, Québec City is blanketed in snow. Its historic streets glow with twinkling lights, skaters glide across outdoor ice rinks and cozy cafés invite visitors to warm up with hot chocolate or mulled wine. In mid-February, the famous Québec Winter Carnival fills the city with ice sculptures, toboggan rides and parades. From February to early April Quebec celebrates what they call ‘sugaring off’, which marks the end of winter and the arrival of spring, as the maple sap starts to rise in the trees and Sugar Shacks can start to tap and boil the sap to make the famous syrup. Locals and visitors drive out of the cities to the Sugar Shacks to welcome spring. Activities include horse-drawn sled drives through the maple groves, rolling maple taffy on the snow, hearty breakfasts slathered in maple syrup and typical French Canadian folk music and song. It’s a right of passage for many Quebec families that becomes an annual tradition. Head to La Sucrerie de la Montagne to experience a sugar shack for yourself. Snow shoe to a cozy mountain hut in the Dolomites Famed for its cuisine and stunning jagged mountains, in winter the Dolomites transform into a snowy playground. Choose the South Tyrol region of the mountains for a gourmet winter escape. Work up an appetite and take a leisurely snowshoe hike along a magical alpine forested trail between San Candido and Sesto to the rustic Jora Mountain Hut. Here, devour South Tyrolean specialities, all made with products from local farmers by local celebrity chef and pasta specialist, Markus Holzer. The menu details the source for every ingredient in each dish, highlighting local specialities. Order the tagliolini with chive blossoms, catfish and cress pesto and take in the views of the snow covered 3 Zinnen Dolomites’ famous peaks. More travel guides The best health and wellness retreats for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known cities 5 destinations at the cutting edge of sleep tourism Best romantic hotels Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best European city breaks 10 unique walking holidays for foodies
10 of the world's most unique whisky distilleries to visit
From urban distilleries in London's East End, to rural escapes high in the Alps or Japanese forests, these are the world's most unique urban distilleries
Whisky might be steeped in tradition, but around the globe distillers are reimagining what it can be, and where it can be made. From a Japanese forest sanctuary to a buzzing East London warehouse, these aren’t just places to sip a dram or enjoy a cocktail, they’re destinations worth travelling to, each with its own story, flavour and setting you won’t forget. For more like this, check out our expert guide to the best Scottish whisky distilleries to visit, the best whisky gifts to buy and the best English whiskies to buy. Hakushu Distillery, Japan Why go: For mountain air, cedar forests and some of the freshest-tasting whisky on earth. Hidden high in Japan’s Southern Alps, Hakushu is a remote retreat for whisky lovers. Surrounded by cedar forests and mountain mist, it makes a whisky befitting its surrounds: fresh, herbaceous with a soft, forest floor smoke. The water at Hakushu, key to the whisky-making process, is so pure, it is bottled and sold on its own. Getting here is part of the magic. A two hour train ride from Tokyo lifts you high into the forests. The distillery’s museum explains the meticulous craft behind Japanese whisky, and the tasting room lets you try drams you won’t find outside Japan. In spring, the forest hums with life; in winter, snow settles on the rooftops. Either way, it’s a place to slow down and savour this smoky gem of a single malt. suntory.com/factory/hakushu/ Cotswolds Distillery, England Why go: For a countryside escape mixing rolling fields, honeyed-stone villages and award-winning English single malt. Set among rolling fields and chocolate-box villages, the Cotswolds Distillery captures the charm of rural England in a bottle. It makes a fruity, full-bodied single malt using locally grown barley, matured in high quality oak casks on-site. Tours are hands-on, with guided tastings and a peek at the stills in action. Afterwards, linger over coffee in the café or browse the shop for exclusive releases. They make their own gin, too if whisky is not your thing. Combine your visit with a wander through nearby Stow-on-the-Wold or Bibury, and you’ve got the perfect countryside escape. cotswoldsdistillery.com Maker’s Mark, Kentucky, USA Why go: For a taste of bourbon heritage — and a chance to dip your own bottle in iconic red wax. An icon of bourbon, Maker’s Mark is instantly recognisable by its red wax coated bottle, each hand-dipped on site. The distillery, at Star Hill Farm in Loretto, is just over an hours drive south of Louisville, or twice that from Nashville. It is pure Americana on arrival: white clapboard buildings, black warehouses and a limestone spring bubbling away. You’ll see the wax-dipping in action, watch labels being hand-cut, taste the spirit straight from the barrel and even dip your own bottle. Star Hill Provisions, the on-site restaurant, dishes up bourbon-inspired Southern cooking such as fried chicken and pecan pie and is worth planning your tour around. makersmark.com/distillery Old Midleton Distillery, Ireland Why go: To see one of the world’s largest copper pot stills and taste Irish whiskey history in the making. Part working distillery, part time capsule, the Old Midleton Distillery in County Cork is home to famous Irish labels such as Jameson, Redbreast and Powers. The historic stone buildings sit alongside the modern plant, showing just how far Irish whiskey has come. A newly renovated visitors centre takes you on an immersive tour not just of whiskey-making, but Irish whiskey history too. On the tour, you’ll walk beneath one of the largest copper pot stills in the world, nose casks in the maturation warehouse, and taste limited-edition whiskeys you won’t see outside the visitor centre. The shop is a treasure trove of collectable bottlings. And with Cork city and the seafood haven of Kinsale nearby, it’s easy to make a weekend of it. jamesonwhiskey.com The East London Liquor Company, England Why go: For small-batch creativity in a hipster urban setting, plus cocktails you’ll want to recreate at home. Forget rolling hills and white-washed rural retreats, this is whisky with an East End edge. In a converted warehouse in Bow Wharf, the East London Liquor Co makes bold, experimental whiskies (plus gin, vodka and rum) using unusual cask finishes and small-batch creativity. Tours are relaxed and chatty, often led by the distillers themselves, and the bar serves both drams and killer cocktails, as well as great food. Afterwards, wander along Regent’s Canal or hit nearby Broadway Market for street food. eastlondonliquorcompany.com Domaine des Hautes Glaces, France Why go: To taste whisky that captures the terroir of the French Alps, from grain to glass. High in the French Alps, Domaine des Hautes Glaces is all about terroir. They grow heritage grains on-site, malt them themselves and use glacial spring water to create organic single malts that taste of the mountain landscape. The views alone are worth the trip. Think pure Sound of Music vibes. The tour shows a level of craftsmanship few can match. Visit in winter to pair whisky with skiing, or in summer for hiking and picnics in wildflower meadows. Either way, you’ll leave with a bottle that feels like a piece of the Alps. hautesglaces.com/en Bushmills Distillery, Northern Ireland Why go: To sip smooth Irish whiskey just minutes from the Giant’s Causeway. Dating back to 1608, Bushmills is the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery and it’s still going strong today. The triple-distilled Irish single malt whiskeys made here are famously smooth and honeyed, perfect for sipping by the fire in the quaint Bushmills Inn, next door. The tour takes you from barley to barrel, finishing in a cosy tasting room. Pick up a distillery-exclusive bottle from the shop before heading out along the Causeway Coastal Route, one of Europe’s most spectacular drives, with the Giant’s Causeway just minutes away. bushmills.eu/about-the-distillery/ Stauning Distillery, Denmark Why go: For Nordic whisky with a coastal twist, made in striking, fisherman-hut-inspired buildings. On Denmark’s windswept west coast, Stauning makes Nordic-inspired single malts and rye whiskies using locally grown grain and traditional floor malting. The whisky has a savoury-sweet character that speaks of the sea air and Danish barley. The design-led modern black distillery buildings, inspired by fishermen’s huts, are as striking as the whisky inside. Tours end with tastings of their core and experimental releases, best enjoyed while gazing out at the dunes. stauningwhisky.com Kavalan Distillery, Taiwan Why go: For tropical, fruit-rich whisky made in one of the most dramatic landscapes in Asia. In just over a decade, Kavalan has put Taiwan on the whisky map. The warm, humid climate in Yilan County speeds up ageing, giving their single malts a lush, tropical fruit character you can taste from the first sip. The sleek visitor centre, which welcomes over a million visitors a year, offers guided tastings, blending sessions and a chance to try rare cask-strength releases. Outside, the mountains and coastline tempt you to linger. Plan your trip around the island’s legendary night markets and you’ll be sipping whisky one minute and discovering street food the next. kavalanwhisky.com Starward Distillery, Australia Why go: For wine-cask-aged whisky with a sunny Melbourne personality. Starward rips up the whisky rulebook. Based in Melbourne, a city with a reputation for doing things differently, the single malt whisky here is aged in Australian wine barrels, giving the spirit a juicy, berry-rich flavour that’s made for sunny-day drinking. Housed in a converted airplane hangar in Port Melbourne, the distillery offers tours, tastings and a bar serving inventive cocktails. You’re just a short tram ride from Melbourne’s laneway bars, food markets and coffee roasters giving all the makings of a perfect city break. starward.com.au More travel guides Why autumn is the best time to visit these summer destinations The best health and wellness retreats for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known cities 5 destinations at the cutting edge of sleep tourism Best romantic hotels Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best European city breaks 10 unique walking holidays for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations
10 London park café destinations for food lovers
Discover London's cool clutch of park cafés for refuelling – the perfect excuse to linger a little longer in the city's leafy spaces
London’s plenteous leafy spaces have long been a sanctuary for city-dwellers, but in recent years the classic park café has undergone a transformation. Gone are the days of limp sandwiches and instant coffee in polystyrene cups. Across the capital, a new breed of park cafés is drawing Londoners and visitors with menus as first-class as their views. More than just a place to grab a flat white – these are foodie destinations in their own right, where you can expect specialty coffee, next-level bakes and a sense of community – all without leaving the park. Whether you’re seeking a post-run pastry, a peaceful lakeside brunch or a packed-out burrito, these spots are worth the detour. FINK'S, Clissold House North Londoners have even more reason to swoon over this beloved Hackney park thanks to newly opened Fink’s Clissold House. Breathing life into the park’s elegant Grade II listed Clissold House, expect straightforward fare with an emphasis on utilising local suppliers. Go for the coffee from Scenery Coffee Roasters and stay for the next-level toasties (pastrami, dill pickle and gruyère) and pastries coming fresh daily from Fink's Bakery in N4, such as the rosette apple, vanilla custard and pecan crumble danish. Cakes are made with seasonal fruit from Natoora & Shrub Provisions and Wildfarmed flour. Furrier friends are also catered for, with dog treats available for purchase in shop. Aside from the refrigerator stocked with locally made soft drinks, foodies can fill their totes on Fink's thoughtful selection of gourmet goods, from tinned fish and truffle crisps to wines and spirits. Come for a proper refuel before a stroll to spot the park’s roaming deer - a blissful afternoon. instagram.com/finks.london Bad Manners, Shoreditch Church Serving a pithy menu of burritos and Mexican-style snacks, this shiny silver trailer has become a cult favourite for East Londoners in the know. Following a successful stint at St John at Hackney Churchyard, this hip establishment is now parked at Shoreditch Church, drawing its burrito devotees – arrive early on weekends to bag a table and avoid disappointment. What to order? The slow-braised beef barbacoa burrito is a must, loaded with Mexican rice, lime crema, braised flor de mayo beans, pickles, onion, coriander and salsa verde. Everything is made to order, with no unnecessary fluff – just bold, full-on flavour. You can also refuel on speciality coffee from PLOT Roasting. instagram.com/badmanners.ldn Queen's Wood Café, Highgate Wood Londoners looking for a slice of woodland magic within commuting distance are in luck thanks to this charming Highgate café. Set amid ancient woodlands in a former wood keeper’s lodge dating back to 1898, this chalet-style café is a favourite for those seeking a fairytale escape from the city, complete with a sweet community garden and therapy cabin. You'll find simple, organic and veggie-focused dishes on the menu (think burrata salad and homemade quiche) and pastries baked fresh daily (cherry danish, cinnamon swirl). Art exhibitions regularly adorn the walls, marking a pretty backdrop to while away the hours. Order a coffee and slice of carrot cake, make a beeline for a seat on the fairy-lit terrace, then breathe in those cosy woodland views. It's a dog-friendly space, too, perfect for walkers in need of a restorative pit stop. queenswoodcafe.org Sons, St John at Hackney Courtyard A friendly kiosk in a leafy Hackney space, Sons has quickly become a foodie-fuelled community hub. Last month, each meatball marinara grilled cheese sandwich sold triggered a fresh loaf from local favourite e5 bakehouse to be donated to Lighthouse, a charity providing support to the homeless and vulnerable across Hackney. They also host run clubs, Pilates classes and pop-ups, adding to its neighbourhood appeal. The team particularly love working with local roasteries who focus on sourcing traceable, high-quality coffee and roasting with care (their latest guest roastery sponsored the weekly run club, with a post-run coffee on them). Silky flat whites aside, you can expect pastries from The Snapery East, grilled cheese sandwiches (including a salty, slow-roasted beef brisket) and tomato soup for just £2. You'll also find plenty of wooden bench seating, with an awning to keep you covered from wet weather. instagram.com/sons.hackney Bunhead, Brockwell Park Though technically not in the park, this humble bakery on the fringes of Brockwell Park is a blessing for the pastry-obsessed in south London. This Herne Hill neighbourhood spot opened just a year ago, when self-taught baker Sara Assad-Mannings took the plunge to move her home lockdown business to a permanent site to give customers a taste of her Palestinian flavours. It may be a bijou space, but the team's warmth and humour will always put a smile on your face. It's hard to choose from the tempting range of sweet and savoury buns – from rhubarb, rose and sumac to shatta and cheddar. bunheadbakery.com Blas, Victoria Park Blas is the new kid on the Victoria Park block, giving stalwart Pavilion a run for its money. The modest red-tiled hut, perfectly situated for runners finishing their routes, is rooted in local history, housed in a former chapel turned rangers’ hut. The serving hatch, finished in a pop of striking Rosewood Red, is a nod to the building’s past, while the modern line-up features all the big-hitters, from cinnamon buns and maritozzi to soft serve in the summer (think Estate Dairy cereal milk topped with cornflake crunch). Blas prides itself on spotlighting guest roasters, with a selection of retail coffees from each roaster, along with a rotating filter menu showcasing each coffee in its best form. instagram.com/blaslondon The Engine House Café, Walthamstow Wetlands This Grade II listed building – originally a sewage pumping station built in 1885 – now houses an elegant café where you can fill up on bagels and freshly roasted coffee by north London specialist roasters Liberty Coffee. Offering a peaceful escape from the city within the wetlands, there's seating within the exposed brick walls of the original Victorian building, or head out to the terrace for birdwatching and enviable reserve views to match. wildlondon.org.uk/cafes Pear Tree Cafe, Battersea Park (and Clapham Common and Lincoln's Inn Fields) This sun-dappled spot boasts a prime position overlooking Battersea Park’s pretty boating lake. Lakeside views aside, brunch is a popular occasion here, with a menu that refreshes the classics with bold, luxurious twists. Buttermilk pancakes are topped with apple and blackberry compote, whipped vanilla mascarpone and toasted almonds, sourdough is slathered in marmite and parmesan-flavoured Bold Beans and smashed avocado arrives heaped onto sourdough alongside feta, basil oil, chilli oil and watermelon radish – an olive favourite. At weekends, there's flaky pastries and coffee from Triple Roast. Since you're in the area, it would be remiss to skip a trip to Mahali & Co bakery, located on the park's perimeter – its creative pandan and coconut cruffins are not to be missed. Coal House Café, Woodberry Wetlands Housed in a stylish, Grade II listed former coal house, this waterside café is a local gem for those in the know. Boasting a rooftop patio, desirable waterside views and sizeable garden, it does a good job at enticing Londoners into leafy spaces before they've even looked for the menu. The rooftop patio and garden are superb spots for sunny London weekends, while the indoor space is cosy in the cooler months. The menu covers a satisfying selection of toasties, seasonal soups and freshly baked pastries. Coffee is freshly roasted in north London each week by Liberty Coffee. wildlondon.org.uk/cafes The Serpentine Lido Café, Hyde Park Hyde Park's iconic Serpentine Lido Café sits right by the water, making it one of central London's most picturesque coffee spots. It's an A1 position for ice cream in the warmer months, but you’ll also find a comforting menu of creamy burrata salads, club sandwiches and nduja poached eggs, perfect for catering to your foodie needs without having to leave the park. Families, locals and city explorers all make use of the café’s ample outdoor seating. Being in central, it can get busy on weekends, but the lakeside views and the hum of Hyde Park life are ample reward. Add it to your list for next time you're in the West End and need refuelling. royalparks.org.uk/serpentine-lido-cafe
Best Italian hotels for food lovers to visit
From vineyard estates in Tuscany to converted palazzos in Puglia and boutiques in Milan's foodiest neighbourhood, here's our pick of Italian hotels that offer visitors a slice of la dolce vita
Looking for the best Italian hotel to visit? We've found the best Italian hotels for food lovers in Piedmont, Tuscany, Sicily, Puglia and everywhere in between. Whether you're on a budget or looking for luxury, need a city break or a sea views, check out our round-up of the best Italian hotels for something for everyone. For more hotel inspiration, check out our best European hidden gem hotels, or relax in one of the best hotel baths worth travelling for. Next, learn 10 things we love about Puglian cuisine and Tuscan food, plus discover the 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting for a foodie trip. Best Italian hotels for foodies La Guardia, Tuscany Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Giglio, the second largest island in the Tuscan archipelago, is lush with clifftop vineyards, fig trees and pines. The serene and stylish seaside retreat, La Guardia, is perched atop a granite cave along from the pastel-hued harbour. Brushed concrete and original stone columns are softened with driftwood decorations and wispy wicker lanterns that gently flutter in the Mediterranean breeze. Chic neutral tones continue through to the rooms, all kitted out with luxury Sicilian Ortigia toiletries and many boasting balconies and sea views. Book the junior suite to embrace the elements with a bathroom built into the granite and a beachside terrace for watching the waves lap against the rocks. Mediterranean flavours and island cuisine are served in the on-site restaurant – sip on a Venetian Select spritz at aperitivo hour before a candlelit dinner of Sicilian anchovies, palamita fish with marinated courgettes, and tagliolini with lemon butter and bottarga. The 70-strong wine list showcases rare bottles from Italy’s islands – Giglio, Ischia, Salina and beyond. Breakfast includes the likes of prosciutto, omelettes with Tuscan cheese, homemade fig bread and freshly squeezed juices. There are sunset yoga sessions on the terrace, healing zen shiatsu and Ayurvedic treatments, and e-bikes to explore the island’s rugged trails, cliff-face vineyards and restaurants in medieval castles. Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Forestis, Plose Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Masseria La Carrube, Puglia Doubles from £311, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Reached via a winding road through thousand-year-old olive trees, Masseria Le Carrube sits between the Adriatic and the hills above Ostuni – a low, whitewashed building surrounded by lemon trees, bougainvillea and acres of working land. This is Puglia at its most ingredients-led. The restaurant, set in the masseria's former olive mill, is entirely vegetarian and deeply rooted in the region. Chef Massimo Santoro builds his ever-changing menus around what the estate produces: almonds, figs, wild strawberries, wheat, vegetables, herbs and olives. Carrube (carob) grows in the courtyard and appears as flour in fresh pasta and dusted atop tiramisu. The approach is thoughtful, seasonal and proudly waste-free, with anything not used one day repurposed the next. Dishes are both traditional and surprising. A fennel flan arrives with a sharp cheese sauce, fried vegetables are crisp and balanced, a pasta cooked in red wine and finished with turnip top cream and a taralli crumb feels inventive but grounded. A bowl of breads – cazzatedde, focaccia and taralli – is as generous as the cooking itself. Guests can dive deeper with pasta-making classes led by Massimo, wine tastings with sommelier Mario exploring Puglia’s native grapes, and olive oil tastings at a neighbouring estate. These experiences round out Le Carrube’s philosophy: connection to the land and reverence for tradition. The rooms are simple, with vaulted ceilings and stone floors, a mixture of farmhouse antiques and clean lines. Some have sea views, others open onto lemon-filled courtyards. Two pools overlook the olive groves. In late summer, the estate’s white and black figs ripen, and you can be sure they’ll take centre stage when they do. Meals here feel like an honest celebration of Puglia’s landscape – generous, inventive and unmistakably local. Doubles from £311, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com L’Albereta Relais & Châteaux, Lombardy Nestled among the vineyards of Franciacorta, L’Albereta is a secluded escape near the town of Erbusco. Dating to the late 19th century, the villa was home to Giovanni Cavalleri and his wife Anna, a musician whose passion for the arts is reflected in the sculptures, whimsical art pieces and beautifully manicured grounds. Now owned by Vittorio Moretti, L’Albereta is on the same estate as Bellavista winery, which features on the extensive wine lists of its restaurants. The elegant Leonefelice Vista Lago, with a stunning view of Lake Iseo, serves elevated Italian dishes inspired by the area, such as Franciacorta beef with rocket and baked cherry tomatoes. Seasonal specials include fried duck egg with asparagus and caviar and cacio e pepe with Sicilian red prawns and lime. The desserts are equally elegant, such as kiwi sorbet with green apple, local wine and citrus fruit soup. Stanza 54, a cosy lounge, offers lunches and lighter fare, while La Filiale, the informal pizza restaurant from award-winning pizzaiolo Franco Pepe, serves handmade dough with innovative toppings. Rooms are individually decorated, large and bright, with warm tones, marble bathrooms and delicate furnishings. Expect luxe fabrics like damask and satin, artistic touches and, in some, deep hydro-massage tubs – choose a superior room for a balcony overlooking the gardens. A continental breakfast with local produce and breads is included. To make the most of your stay, book a tour of the on-site winery plus a tasting of its sparkling wines, or enjoy a treatment at the peaceful Chenot Espace wellness spa. Superior rooms from £348 per night, check availability at albereta.it or booking.com Villa La Massa, Tuscany Just 15 minutes from Florence's bustling centre, this riverside 16th-century estate welcomes guests with the heady scent of jasmine, lemon trees and roses. Despite its grandeur, Villa La Massa is laid back, calm and homely. The property has 54 unique rooms across six buildings, from the main Villa Nobile mansion to a riverside suite and a beautifully converted farmhouse. For ultimate seclusion, Casa Colonica stands out with authentic Tuscan elements – exposed beams, wooden floors and green marble bathrooms. There are artisan touches throughout, from hand-knotted rugs crafted by an 80-year-old local tapestry master to traditional key charms instead of modern keycards. The hotel’s restaurants celebrate Tuscan heritage and homegrown produce, with the estate's own olive oil accompanying every meal. Il Verrocchio restaurant offers traditional Tuscan dishes with a contemporary twist such as “Florentine” t-bone steak, duck ravioli, and tagliolini with roasted tomatoes, while L’Oliveto Bistrot focuses on more casual dining featuring the likes of fresh salads, carpaccio, and pizzas. Don't miss the rosemary-studded focaccia or the pici pasta, a hand-rolled specialty. Breakfast unfolds as a celebration of regional delicacies such as focaccia, coconut and cinnamon paradise cake, freshly squeezed orange juice and tables positioned to capture the morning sun dancing across the river's surface. Unwind in the spa with sauna, steam room and tailored massage treatments or participate in hands-on pizza-making classes and cocktail workshops. Villa La Massa invites you to fully lean into rural Tuscan life, while boasting easy access to Florence’s Renaissance treasures and thriving hospitality scene. Check availability at villalamassa.com or booking.com Hotel Su Gologone, Sardinia Doubles from £285, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Winding into the Barbagia mountains you'll find the Hotel Su Gologone. Just a two-hour drive from the Costa Smeralda this is more bandit than paparazzi territory – probably one of the reasons Madonna hid out here, although she could have been swayed by the hotel’s gob-smacking beauty, hippy-chic vibe and gourmet credentials. Food is at the heart of Su Gologone, which started life as a restaurant in the 1960s. Today, it might be a chic, art-themed hotel – a pretty huddle of whitewashed buildings laced with vivid purple bougainvillea and bedded into the mountainside – but it’s still famous for its food. Giovanna’s vibrant artworks pepper the bedrooms’ walls while the corridors are hung with traditional embroidered skirts and shawls. Secret alcoves are dotted around the gardens, there’s an open-air cinema and pool, a small spa, rooftop lounging areas for stargazing and a fabulous bar– whitewashed, open-air, scattered with white cushions and teetering above the valley. Sip a frothy bellini here, as the sun sinks, soaking up the Ibiza vibe and jaw-dropping views. Doubles from £285, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Fink, South Tyrol Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Nestled in the arcades of one of Brixen’s oldest monastery townhouses, this boutique hotel has been passed down through four generations. Husband-and-wife owners Petra and Florian Fink have a deep respect for the 1450s building, creating an intentionally minimalist feel to allow original features to shine in the nine suites – thick stone walls left bare, restored ceiling frescoes decorating cosy window seats and the terrazzo flooring flecked with South Tyrolean stone. A compact vaulted spa awaits behind an ancient wooden door, its central stone plunge pool ideal for cooling down after sessions in the sauna, steam room and Roman bath outhouse. Choose to dine in the chic vaulted restaurant or outside beneath the arcade’s graceful curves. Florian curates produce from 50 local farmers – most specialising in a single ingredient – for his fresh, simple, zero-waste monastery kitchen style. The main menu is vegetarian and includes clever alternatives, such as root veg tartare, tagliolini with red cabbage cream and black truffle, and organic grain ravioli filled with chanterelles and mountain cheese. Meat and fish options are succinct and include local game and freshwater fish, from lake trout fillet to venison stew with beetroot dumplings, and veal schnitzel with lingonberry sauce. Sweet plum dumplings come with black beer ice cream, while three South Tyrolean apple varieties are showcased in a tartlet with ricotta and caramel sauce. An elegant breakfast kicks off with a soothing herb broth followed by fresh juices and fruit salads, crudités to dunk into herb ricotta and compotes to spread over warm croissants and breads, plus made-to-order spelt pancakes and crisp buckwheat waffles. fink1896.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Il Borro Estate, Tuscany Doubles from £455, check availability at booking.com Il Borro is a true working 800-hectare estate, where guests visiting in autumn can take part in the wine harvest and feast alongside the workers and owners (the glamorous Ferragamo family). The hotel itself is set in the remains of a medieval village in the centre of the estate in Valdarno valley, a wilder, more rustic corner of Tuscany. The unique terroir of the estate, with its varying rocky, sandy and clay soils, makes perfect growing conditions for Syrah to make Pian di Nova, San Giovese to make Polissena and Merlot to make the Il Borro signature blend. This unique climate and soil isn’t solely reserved for wine - 700 olive trees provide oil, fields of buckwheat are a playground for honeybees, plus more fields of organic tomato vines, courgettes, pumpkins, green beans and melons provide the hotel’s three-floored Osteria and Tuscan bistro (and chef Andrea Campani) with the ultimate kitchen garden. The buffet breakfast is also exceptional – so abundant that sweet and savoury options are housed in separate rooms. Stay in one of the hotel double rooms or, for more of a countryside experience, the hotel has several ‘farmhouses’ available as guest suites – albeit farmhouses that come with infinity pools, vine-covered terraces and dining rooms where you can whip up your own meals. Don't miss out on a few laps in the infinity pool too. Doubles from £455, check availability at booking.com Nordelaia, Piedmont Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Nordelaia is all about equilibrium: between tradition and modernity; simplicity and indulgence; the boundlessness of nature and the cosy, uplifting comfort of home. It lies within a hilly swathe of rural Piedmont – a region which itself represents a kind of geographical middle ground, suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800-year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are at once contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, while freestanding baths in the bedroom areas add a dose of opulence. On the first floor, the four rooms are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes by which Nordelaia, from its woody hillside perch, is engulfed: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn, and pearly whites in the winter. Two outdoor pools – one heated, one not, but both with views for miles – entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its warm stone floors, barrel-vaulted brick ceiling and stone arches, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Beyond the walls, Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here chef Charles Pearce pays stunning homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and to the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. The two coalesce inventively in his take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta that Charles instead pairs with barbecue-kissed prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a lip-smacking tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms, served with a deeply savoury anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Palazzo Margherita, Basilicata Doubles from £856, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The ethos behind Palazzo Margherita is that it should be a home away from home (albeit a pretty palatial one, bearing in mind that this was originally home to a Hollywood film director), with friendly staff and an open attitude to eating: guests can eat anywhere, anytime, choosing a location within the property that suits their particular mood. Enjoy breakfast in the courtyard, coffees by the walled pool, pizza and pasta at communal tables at the eat-in kitchen and drinks in the cocktail bar. Should you venture away from the hotel, the tranquil local beach has a scattering of sunbeds and parasols reserved for Palazzo Margherita guests. Pick one and look out at the Ionian Sea while you feast on a picnic made up by the cooks at the hotel (they normally add in a delicious seafood spaghetti made with the catch of the day from a local fisherman). Doubles from £856, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Susafa, Sicily Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk It’s a family affair at Susafa, a sprawling estate that has been owned by members of the Saeli-Rizzuto family for five generations - brothers Manfredi and Tommaso are now at the helm. The fortified, 19th-century farmhouse at its heart sits at the foot the Madonie mountains, near Polizzi Generosa, and is the focal point for overnight guests. Around the farmhouse are 18 simple but chic guest rooms. Between terracotta floors and exposed beams are restful ricotta-coloured walls and the odd pop of olive green or tomato red from a headboard or throw. A restaurant is housed in the old granary and flavours here take their inspiration from the traditional Sicilian table. Vegetables, herbs, fruit and organic olive oil all come straight from the farm and the menu is elegantly rustic (think tomato salads, caponata and creamy risottos). Join a cookery lesson if you can drag yourself away from the pool. Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Castello di Casole, Tuscany Doubles from £667, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Roughly half way between Florence and Siena, and surrounded by 4,200 acres of quintessential rolling, forested hills and golden fields, Castello di Casole is a magnificent Italian country estate. At its centre is an imposing, ochre-coloured castle flanked by gardens of lavender, gravel-edged lawns, roses and olive trees. Castello di Casole is pitched at travellers in search of an unblemished version of la dolce vita, one with all the luxurious perks you could imagine. It has 41 rooms and suites within the castle and the hamlet that surrounds it, and another 28 villas and farmhouses (rentable by the week) scattered throughout the estate. Décor is tastefully restrained, with sage and burnt umber paintwork, beamed ceilings, antique furniture sourced from local markets, traditional cotto floors and Carrara marble bathrooms. As with any self-respecting Tuscan estate, this one comes with its own vineyard and olive groves but the real showstopper is the hotel’s infinity pool with its mesmerising views over the undulating landscape. As dusk falls, most guests gravitate to the terrace above the pool, aperitivo in hand, to watch the spectacular sight of the sun sinking behind the hills. As well as the Pazzia Restaurant, which serves traditional Italian dishes and homemade gelato as well as Alessandro’s expert pizzas, there is a more formal restaurant, Tosca, overseen by chef Daniele Sera. Despite the stiff linen and impeccable service here, it still feels relaxed. A standout of the four-course tasting menu was the delicate spinach and ricotta gnudi with tomato confit and light-as-air mozzarella foam. There are more gastronomic experiences available too – from truffle hunting and mushroom foraging to pasta making and wine or olive oil tasting. Doubles from £667, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Borgo Egnazia, Puglia Doubles from £469, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Borgo Egnazia, or ‘village Egnazia’, is quite literally that: an Apulian-inspired network of little streets and piazzas that lead to villas, restaurants, swimming pools, spas, gardens and golf courses. It’s a self-contained bubble of luxury, beautifully designed around the colours white and cream, that’s built entirely from tactile tuff stone. Despite its size, the entire complex exudes a zen-like atmosphere that we found very difficult to leave. You can choose from four types of hotel room, five apartments or six villas – all luxurious, and all within easy reach of a swimming pool. Food is a priority, with six restaurants on site that honour Puglian cuisine – timeless, simple, thrifty food. From grilled octopus at the sophisticated Due Camini, where vaulted white ceilings twinkle with illuminated glass bottles, to a relaxed buffet at La Fresca, rustic orecchiette or pizza at Mia Cucina and fresh seafood at beachside restaurant Pescheria da Vito, it’s easy to stay within the Borgo walls all week. Doubles from £469, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Il Borgo del Balsamico, Emilia Romagna Doubles from £148, check availability at booking.com Modena is synonymous with one of Italy’s most celebrated ingredients: intensely flavoured balsamic vinegar made from fermented grape must. The area around the city of Reggio Emilia is a hub for the vinegar’s production, and also happens to be where you will find Il Borgo del Balsamico. At this historic guest house, in Botteghe Albinea, sisters Cristina and Silvia Crotti produce DOP and IGP vinegars. It’s a lovely setting – an 18th century villa and farmhouse surrounded by wisteria-draped gardens, abundant with damask roses and fruit trees. You can visit the tasting rooms as a day tripper but we recommend booking to stay over in one of the property’s three, refined guestrooms (plus one apartment); think parquet floors, Venetian plasterwork and carefully chosen antiques. There’s a small pool in the gardens too. Doubles from £148, check availability at booking.com Locanda al Colle, Tuscany Doubles from £252, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Calling Locanda al Colle a bed and breakfast is a bit of an understatement. This 12-room guesthouse has many of the perks of a five-star hotel with its antiques and art, saltwater pool and immaculate gardens. Adding to the exclusive feel is its tranquil location, on a pine and olive tree-dotted hill outside Camaiore (also easily reached from seaside resorts like Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi and the pretty town of Pietrasanta). The overall vibe is informal but impeccable, and the same could be said of the food, with everything freshly made each day, from the sourdough bread and granola at breakfast to the cakes for afternoon tea. Resident chef Gianluca also conducts cookery lessons in the kitchen and, twice a week (on Wednesdays and Saturdays) hosts sociable dinners serving homemade ravioli and more on the candlelit terrace (on Monday evenings simple suppers of Tuscan soup and bruschetta are also available). Doubles from £252, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Planeta Wine Estate, Sicily Doubles from £225, check availability at booking.com Unsurprisingly it’s all about wine at the Planeta Wine Estate, just outside Menfi in south-western Sicily. As one of Sicily’s most well established and highly regarded wine producers, Planeta has five different territories dotted around the island but Menfi is where it all began, back in the 16th century. At nearby La Forestiera (part of the estate) there are 14 guestrooms set amid regimented vines, plus a restaurant whose menu is informed by its surroundings - the herbs of the countryside and seafood from the nearby coast. Sip a glass of Nero d’Avola on the pool terrace or visit one of Planeta’s wineries for an in-depth tasting. As well as the pool, in the warmer months guests have access to the Lido Fiori on the beach at Porto Palo di Menfi, 10 minutes’ drive away. Planeta also has vast olive groves at Capparriva producing DOP Val di Mazzara oils; guests can sign up for a tasting and learn about harvesting and pressing. Doubles from £225, check availability at booking.com La Locanda Delle Donne Monache, Basilicata Doubles from £98, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Slightly less well-trammelled by British visitors than other corners of the country, Basilicata is sandwiched between Campania (to the north) and Calabria (to the south). Its rumpled Tyrrhenian Sea coastline is short but sweet at just 30km long, with mountains rising abruptly from the sea. Maratea, its principal town, is a charming cluster of buildings dotted with twisting alleyways and over 40 churches. Also in town, La Locanda delle Donne Monache is a former 18th-century convent, now a smart hotel, with a pool and views over the countryside to the sea. The hotel’s Il Sacella restaurant embraces the flavours of the province – chillies and pork are popular regional staples – and the menu features local sausages from Maratea, homemade pasta with mussels, shrimp and cuttlefish and baked sea bream washed down by Basilicata’s signature wine, the red Aglianco del Vulture. Doubles from £98, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Domu Antiga, Sardinia Doubles from £182, check availability at booking.com A 19th-century farmhouse in the rural heartland of Sardinia, Domu Antiga is in the village of Gergei, surrounded by empty plains and olive groves roamed by more sheep than people. The sensitively restored building is now home to four airy guestrooms whose owners are passionate about local traditions. Guests can jump on a cute Piaggio Ape van and tour the Unesco World Heritage-listed archaeological site of Su Nuraxi at Barumini. Alternatively, join chef Maria Grazia’s bread and cheese-making classes or try your hand at making local pasta shapes, like the island’s unique malloreddus gnocchi. Maria also oversees the guesthouse’s lavish breakfasts, and cooks dinner on request (expect grilled vegetables, local ravioli and Sardinian cheeses). There’s also a pizzeria and a winery close by. Doubles from £182, check availability at booking.com San Luis, Avelengo Check rates and availability at sanluis-hotel.com San Luis is where to go to get away from it all, breathe deeply and just immerse yourself in the tranquility, interrupted only by birdsong and cow bells chiming out through the surrounding valleys. Bedrooms are spread across a scattering of chalets and treehouses around a small, glacier mint-clear lake. Many of the rooms have their own hot tubs and saunas and all of them have small kitchens and dining areas. The showstopper is the double-height spa area in the main clubhouse with its blazing fires, black linen loungers to sink into, huge windows gazing out over the treetops and an inside/outside swimming pool – swim out, race down the pontoon and jump into the hot tub (or, in summer, plunge into the chilly waters of the lake). For foodies, the buzzy, ground floor dining room looks out over the lake and purrs with efficiency. The menu comes in two guises; a traditional one, which draws on the region’s Austro/Italian gastro-heritage, and a more modern, Mediterranean-inspired alternative dreamt up by executive chef, Arturo Spicocchi (five courses, but you can pick and choose how much you want to eat and half portions are available). Lunchtime means soup, salad and cheese, and teatime heralds cakes as well as home-made ice cream. Check rates and availability at sanluis-hotel.com Don Totu Dimora Storica, Puglia Doubles from £295, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com A stylish boutique hotel in the heart of rustic Puglia, Don Totu Dimora Storica is an 18th century palazzo boasting some of the most secluded grounds and best value rooms in the region. In the rural town of San Cassiano large wooden doors along an unassuming backstreet open into a mini palazzo, gracefully decorated in muted tones. Squishy armchairs and books and board games are on hand to keep visitors occupied. Or, help yourself to snacks from the kitchen (homemade biscuits, juices, cakes and nuts) and pad out through a higgledy-piggledy courtyard to find stone staircases leading to secluded terraces. Scented white rose petals drift down from a pergola that leads to a pool and gardens, jazz trickles from speakers and tiny lizards dart from one cacti-filled pot to another. The six bedrooms at Don Totu each have an individual feel. The owners make the most of the building’s quirks (vaulted stone ceilings, quiet alcoves, narrow staircases leading to terracotta terraces…) and have gathered a collection of furniture from across the region to add contemporary touches. There’s no restaurant at the hotel but order before 10.30 and you can enjoy lunchtime sandwiches and salads made with the region’s fantastic produce. The hotel’s small team of staff provides complimentary snacks to break up your day, anywhere in the grounds, from afternoon tea to aperitivo. Doubles from £295, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Palazzo Seneca, Norcia Doubles from £217, check availability at booking.com The foodie town of Norcia is set in the densely tree-covered Sibillini Mountains in Umbria. Enter through one of seven gates in the town’s heart-shaped, ancient walls and you soon discover a network of paved streets rich with foodie delights – café and restaurant tables spilling onto pavements and traditional food shops, Norcinerias, packed with prosciutto, cheeses, spelt and truffles. Relais & Chateaux's Palazzo Seneca is an elegantly restored sixteenth-century building hidden in one of Norcia’s narrow streets. Original stone flooring, open fires and squishy chairs await in the reception rooms, while delicate wrought iron frames, twisted wooden columns and wooden bedheads have been crafted so no two of the 24 rooms are the same. Pad down to the hotel's candlelit barrel-vaulted spa in the basement, complete with jacuzzi, sauna and Turkish bath. For breakfast, a serve-yourself spread is laid out on enormous wooden surfaces, with an entire table dedicated to charcuterie and local cheese. The hotel’s Michelin-starred Vespia restaurant is where the modern and innovative approach really comes into play, with little stacks of 24hr-cooked suckling pig and crisp buttery potatoes with splashes of colourful root veg purée, Norcia sausage ravioli and Breton chicken two ways. Doubles from £217, check availability at booking.com Find out more about our trip around Norcia here Langhe Country House, Piedmont Doubles from £209 per night, check availability at booking.com An imposing 18th-century farmstead near Alba, in Piedmont, Langhe Country House is surrounded by vineyards and hazelnut orchards, and has been beautifully renovated by owners Alessandro and Nadia (a Slow Food member and trained sommelier). The only meal served here is breakfast but it seriously impresses: hazelnut cakes and tarts, biscuits (baci, brutti ma buoni), croissants, jams, seasonal fruit, cheeses from Alta Langa, sliced hams – all homemade or local. Cooking classes for Piedmontese recipes can be arranged, and guests can help themselves to a glass of wine from the poolside wine fridge before going out for dinner in the local village. Doubles from £209 per night, check availability at booking.com Castello Banfi Il Borgo, Tuscany Doubles from £762, check availability at booking.com Set on Montalcino’s largest wine estate, by a medieval castle, Castello Banfi Il Borgo is a glamorous Italian hotel shaped from a hamlet of former estate workers’ houses. Romantic, traditionally styled suites - with terracotta floors, antique furnishings and linen-canopied beds – and classical Tuscan cooking (courses are also available) make it popular with honeymooners but it’s the estate’s Brunello that draws in visiting gourmands; in the on-site enoteca/ wine bar local sheep’s cheese and prosciutto can be paired to the estate’s wines. Doubles from £762, check availability at booking.com Hotel Schgaguler, Dolomites Doubles from £318, check availability at booking.com Pale wood and light hues dominate at Hotel Schgaguler, a central Castelrotto hotel surrounded by the Italian Dolomiti Superski region and all its endless ski runs. The food here is lighter than the hearty mountain fare of the surrounding mountains, with an Alpine-meets-Med twist. But the approach to ingredients remains as hyper-local as possible, making the most of what’s on the hotel’s doorstep. Eat light-as-a-feather gnocchi sprinkled with Alpine herbs, and drink milk supplied direct from local farms. The wine list is cherry-picked from Tyrolean producers further down the valley near Bolzano, and there’s a selection of grappa from neighbouring distilleries. Doubles from £318, check availability at booking.com The Marriott, Venice Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, marriott.com or expedia.co.uk Venice has long been known for its iconic Italian landmarks and traditionally rich culture. And cooking is an intrinsic part of that culture. At the Marriott, Federico Belluco, one of Italy’s youngest Michelin starred chefs, demonstrates why, making the most of the island’s kitchen garden of herbs, edible flowers and vegetables in dishes such as silky tortellini or comforting seafood stew, all drizzled in Isola delle Rose olive oil, the only olive oil produced within the city's boundaries. The resort's luxurious bedrooms and suites are modern and minimalist. Particularly impressive are the Residenza suites, which come with private pools with views of Venice. Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, marriott.com or expedia.co.uk La Favia, Milan Doubles from €125 including breakfast, check availability at lafavia4rooms.com< The four-bedroom La Favia guesthouse, an urban hideaway tucked inside a refurbished 19th-century building, takes its inspiration from owners Fabio and Marco’s travels: no two rooms are the same. On sunny mornings, start the day with breakfast in the rooftop garden – eggs cooked to order, pastries, cakes, bread, homemade jams, fruit and juice squeezed from oranges grown in the owners’ own citrus grove. Doubles from €125 including breakfast, check availability at lafavia4rooms.com Masseria Montenapoleone, Puglia Doubles from £212, check availability at booking.com In time-honoured Pugliese farming tradition, breakfast is the most important meal of the day and, at Masseria Montenapoleone - a stylish farmhouse hotel - it is served in the atmospheric surroundings of the Old Stables. Freshly picked fruits from the farm, dried fig tarts straight from the oven, citrus carpaccio with cinnamon, local cheese and cured meats are just some of the treats on offer for the first meal of the day. The warm sandstone farmhouse, which dates from the 1600s, has 16 guestrooms and is surrounded by a plane of silvery olive and almond trees. Just outside Fasano, on the Salento coast, it is very much a working farm, dedicated to organic produce. Guests are encouraged to pick their own fruit and vegetables and to go behind the scenes to learn more about Puglian cuisine. Doubles from £212, check availability at booking.com Antica Fattoria La Parrina, Tuscany Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com The Maremma is a corner of Tuscany where you can still find countryside roamed by traditional cowboys called “butteri” and Antica Fattoria La Parrina is the perfect stop for a window into rural life down on the Tuscan farm. As well as making well-regarded wines and grappa, the farm also produces cheese, honey, olive oil, fruit, vegetables, pasta, flour and meat – there’s an on-site shop that would put many a farmer’s market to shame. Overnight guests (it also doubles as an agriturismo) can also enjoy the farm’s bounty on the breakfast table, as well as at lunch and dinner; everything is made onsite. Guests can picnic in the grounds, enjoy wine tastings, join a Tuscan cookery lesson or even go boar hunting on the estate. The property’s 12 bedrooms, housed in the solid farmhouse at the centre of the estate, channel rustic charm rather than country chic and there’s a pool, gardens and the beach resorts of the Tyrrhenian Sea a short drive away. Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com Hotel Emilia, Le Marche Doubles from £67, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk With rolling hills, ancient towns and beaches lapped by the limpid waters of the Adriatic, Le Marche’s under-the-radar charms are many. Hotel Emilia commands a haughty spot on the Cornero Riviera, a slice of dreamy coastline south of Ancona mostly given over to a national park. In addition to its 30 guests rooms, there’s a pool, an artsy vibe, a restaurant focusing on local dishes and fabulous sunsets. While you’re there, take the serpentine road down to Portonovo, however. At night the loungers are tidied away and tables are set up on the beach. Seafood is the order of the day, namely the acclaimed wild mussels found in the bay, some of the sweetest you’ll ever taste and harvested in the traditional way. Served in a number of guises; sautéed with lemon, served with spaghetti or with "paccheri" and fennel as is the case at Da Giachetti (ristorantedagiachetti.it). Il Laghetto (illaghetto.com) and Da Emilia (daemilia) are two more to try. Doubles from £67, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
9 cities that should be on every foodie’s bucket list
Expand your holiday horizons and tick new countries off your travel list with these bucket list destinations
Food can define a holiday. If it’s bad, it casts a shadow. But, eat well and you will deepen your connection with a place. Here, we’ve chosen nine world cities where the food isn’t just good – it’s one of the big reasons to go. Cape Town, South Africa South Africa’s wines are famous for a reason. In Cape Town, you’re within easy reach of the best growing regions – including Stellenbosch and the Cape Winelands – and there are plenty of companies offering day trips to the most storied vineyards (try the Franschhoek wine tram). We suggest an overnighter at Babylonstoren, the original sister property to The Newt in Somerset. A modern wine producer, the garden hotel has a gorgeous selection of accommodations, a spa and lots of overnight guest-only experiences, including one of the most varied and delicious breakfast buffets we’re ever had (we still think about the five varieties of butter). Back in Cape Town itself, the restaurant scene is popping. Down at the V&A Waterfront, Pier offers a high-end heritage experience; Salon serves a highly rated 13-course tasting menu; over in Paternoster, Wolfgat brings together foraging, fermenting and storytelling to create a 20-seat culinary retreat; and Ryan Cole’s Salsify at the Roundhouse rightfully won ‘Restaurant of the Year' at South Africa's latest Eat Out Restaurant Awards. Locals will tell you that Arthur’s Super Mini is the place for breakfast, while the terrace at Belmond’s striking pretty-in-pink hotel Mount Nelson is the spot to book for sundowners. Hong Kong, Hong Kong Hong Kong has so many incredible places to eat, it’s hard to know where to start. So we’ll begin with the first meal of the day. For something sweet and savoury, make a beeline to Cheung Hing Coffee Shop for freshly baked pineapple buns filled with ham and a fried egg. Lin Heung is the oldest dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong and draws a queue from 7am. Its traditional breakfast is served from a vintage trolley, piled high with bamboo steamers filled with siu mai dumplings. While you’re in Hong Kong, you’ll also need to try milk tea and a bright-yellow custard tart. The best we’ve found are at Lan Fong Yuen and Bakehouse, respectively. One of our favourite spots for lunch is Yat Lok, which opened in 1957 and is still loved today for its crispy goose legs, which are served with noodles and a clear broth. Eating here is a no-frills affair, but it deserves its place in the Michelin Guide. Round the corner, Mak’s Noodle is famous for its prawn wonton soup and is a great spot for a filling lunch. Three-floor Luk Yu Tea House is a historic must-visit – we respect its no-phones policy as well as its crispy chicken. And, you can’t visit Hong Kong without a meal at Duddell’s, a Michelin-starred dim sum restaurant that serves dumplings in distinctive goldfish shapes alongside sautéed lobster with sugar peas in black bean sauce. The Chairman is another much-awarded restaurant that should be high on any foodie’s must-book list. For something more high energy, Ho Lee Fook is a fantastic, neon-filled spot in Central, where head chef Archan Chan serves fun, modern takes on Cantonese classics such as sweet-and-sour Kurobuta pork with perfume lemon tea, Tetris-cut pineapple, onion and crispy tea leaves; while Yardbird Yakitori puts a flavour-filled twist on a Japanese izakaya in Sheung Wan. For one of the best views in the city (The Peak on one side, the cityscape and water on the other), book a hotel room at The Upper House. Its 49th-floor bar serves excellent cocktails and it’s almost worth staying here for the incredible dim sum breakfast alone. Los Angeles, US There are many cities in America we could have chosen for your bucket list: Chicago has always been famed for its unique pizza (and The Bear has added the city's beef subs and high-end restaurants to the global map), while New York will always be high on our list for memorable meals. But, nowhere does variety and glamour quite like LA. From XL martinis at the Maybourne Beverly Hills’ beautiful rooftop bar Dante, to more martinis, plus spaghetti and meatballs, at Musso & Frank Grill – a gorgeously evocative grand dining room that’s graced Hollywood since 1919 – a night out in Los Angeles is always a good time. Mexican food is a must. Some of the best places to sample the most authentic tacos and tostadas are the city’s roaming taco trucks. Locations change day to day, so check socials, but the best we tried were from Leo’s, a colourful truck on Sunset Boulevard where we sat at a picnic bench and dived into al pastor and asada fries. For special-occasion dining, look to The Ivy on the Shore over in Santa Monica, Nancy Silverton’s excellent Osteria Mozza and Avra for cracking seafood. For unique LA-exclusive experiences, lunch-only Destroyer in Culver City is a no-reservations ‘café atelier’ that serves the likes of organic duck confit ciabatta with crispy duck skin, wild rocket, preserved shishito peppers and roasted kale emulsion. Or, book a table at Poltergeist, which serves a signature Thai caesar salad and octopus burrata. Finally, you can’t go to LA without trying the Hailey Bieber strawberry glaze skin smoothie from Erewhon – we don’t make the rules. Tokyo, Japan The most populous city on the planet has a unique way of upholding tradition while exploring the cutting edge of everything, including food. Naturally, sushi comes very high on most people’s list of things to try when they visit, and Sushi-Ya in Ginza is one of the very best places to try it in all of Japan. A small sushi shop down a side street, Sushi-Ya has an eight-person counter where lucky diners are presented with the likes of octopus sashimi and traditional handrolls. Other top affordable sushi restaurants include Kagurazaka Yokota in Shinjuku (a meal of 15 handrolls and miso soup will cost around £30) and Sushi Mikata in Minato, which only has stand-up tables to encourage guests to stop in for just a few plates and a beer. Sushi and sashimi are available by the piece and served swiftly – ideal for a pitstop lunch as you spend the day exploring Minato’s shrines, parks and museums. You’ll struggle to find bad ramen in Tokyo, but it doesn’t get better – or more traditional – than Japanese Ramen Gokan, a small shop in Toshima. As at most ramen joints, you place your order on the ticket machine before being shown to a seat at the bar. Soy sauce or traditional ‘salted’ bowls of ramen feature nori dried seaweed and soft noodles made by a local, topped with pork chashu, wontons, egg or steamed chicken. Meanwhile, Butagumi in Minato is a tonkotsu shop in a beautiful old house, where the team serve up noodles in bowls you’ll want to take home as a souvenir. Tokyo has the highest concentration of Michelin stars in the world. One of our favourites is Sézanne, where French chef Daniel Calvert fuses the food of his homeland with the ingredients of Japan. On the seventh floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, it has three Michelin stars and last month won Best Restaurant in Japan on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List. For something similar, Narisawa in Minato is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant with a simple, inventive focus on sustainability, drawing on chef-owner Yoshihiro Narisawa’s French-led training. Sydney, Australia Melbourne might get more cool points, but we think Sydney just edges its local rival for restaurants. Between days spent swimming (we love Clovelly and Wylie’s Baths) and shopping (don’t sleep on Lee Mathews and Poepke), the food scene here has plenty to keep visitors sated. One such top spot is relaxed and unpretentious Sean’s on Bondi Beach. The menu is local and seasonal, with most ingredients sourced from chef Sean Moran’s Blue Mountains farm. There are also tons of top Italian spots: Ragazzi is the place to for a late-night pasta fix (order the anchovy with whipped chive butter on sourdough), while Pellegrino 2000 is a warmly lit, neighbourhood trattoria and bar in Surry Hills serving homemade pasta that transports you straight to the narrow streets of Italy. Leave room for the crème caramel, which comes with a dramatic silver platter of banana-infused whipped cream. Australia, at large, is rightly famous for its coffee scene. A local favourite spot in Sydney is Tamarama’s MyFlowerMan – grab a coffee, soak up the sun and pick up a bunch of flowers. Ever-so-slightly off the beaten track, it’s a calm spot where you can forgo the queue for your morning coffee. Flour and Stone in Woolloomooloo is another standout option, which is also much loved for its cinnamon buns and Valrhona manjari chocolate cake (we hear Nigella Lawson is a fan). Finally, Sydney’s coastal location gives its chefs plenty of incredible seafood to cook with. Clam Bar, Ester and Saint Peter are some of the best places to try fish in unexpected ways – head to Saint Peter for salt-and-vinegar line-caught blue mackerel with olive brine, sourdough and cultured butter, or 12-day dry-aged yellowfin tuna sirloin with hand-cut chips, leaves and condiments. Bangkok, Thailand Bangkok is loved by foodies for two quite different reasons: the diversity of its street food and sheer number of its awarded restaurants. For the former, 120-year-old market Nang Loeng and night market Jodd Fairs are some of the best places to sample affordable dishes that run the spectrum from pad thai and moo ping grilled pork to jellyfish noodles and pineapple fried rice. There are many companies that run street food tours through the city. On A Chef’s Tour, just eight guests are shown around 15 restaurants and backstreet food stalls over four hours, taking in traditional dishes such as cured sausage curry, satay skewers and hand-rolled noodles. Then, there are the high-end names to know: Nahm, Gaggan, Sorn and Nusara are some of the most respected restaurants in the world, so it pays to book a table as soon as (or even before) you’ve booked your flights. In 2002, Nahm became the first restaurant in Thailand to win a Michelin star. It still impresses today, with Bangkok-born chef Pim Techamuanvivit offering a surprising take on the flavours of her country. Indian chef Gaggan Anand turned the Thai dining scene on its head when he launched his eponymous restaurant Gaggan, which is kitted out in neon and has a menu that blends colour, Indian, French and Thai flavours, and his own musical background – it's something truly individual. But for something more distinctively Thai, Sorn’s menu focuses on ingredients and modern interpretations of dishes from southern Thailand. Think: Phuket lobster or Tapi river prawns. Then, there’s Nusara: chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn calls his food ‘colourful Thai cuisine’ that honours his grandmother. Tasting menu highlights include blue swimming crab curry and crispy rice noodles, Thai wagyu with holy basil and a Thai tea ice-cream sandwich. Lima, Peru In 2023, Virgilio Martínez’s Central came top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, becoming the first South American restaurant to do so. Lima has other contenders regularly on the list, including Central’s sister site Kjolle and Mayta, which both lean into contemporary Peruvian cuisine. This year, Lima’s Maido topped the list. The epitome of nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese fusion), the Miraflores restaurant is led by chef Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura, who turns out signature dishes such as squid ramen with Amazonian chorizo. Nikkei food is symbolic of Peruvian cooking, which generally combines indigenous, Spanish, African, Chinese and Japanese traditions, all backed up by the country's incredible biodiversity, which provides a wonderful bounty from across the Andes, Amazon and Pacific coast. One of the best places to experience the full diversity of these ingredients is at the 10-day Mistura food festival, which lands in Lima every September, showcasing food from over 300 farms, restaurants and big-name chefs. Lima is the only capital city in South America by the ocean, which partly explains how ceviche became one of the country’s national dishes. Down by the harbour, there are plenty of food stalls that serve fresh-off-the-boat seafood ceviche-style, but one of the very best places to try it is at Miraflores restaurant La Mar – a pioneering cevicheria that’s only open from noon to 5.30pm to guarantee the freshness of that morning’s catch. Another delicacy is guinea pig (cuy), and it’s served most inventively as a Peking-style meat with hoisin sauce at hotspot Astrid y Gastón, which you’ll find in a striking 300-year mansion in San Isidro. The pisco sour is another Peruvian icon – we drink ours at Hotel Bolivar and Museo del Pisco. Mexico City, Mexico Mexico City is roughly the same size as London, so you’ll want to set aside five or so days if you want to really get around its world-class restaurants. We suggest starting at Central de Abasto food market. It’s where 80 per cent of CDMX’s ingredients come from, so is a great spot to immerse yourself in the colours, flavours and scents of the scene, trying fresh guava and cactus as you go. For a definitive high-end Mexican restaurant experience, book a table at Contramar in Roma Norte, which opened in 1998. Famous for its showstopping dessert trays, chef Gabriela Cámara’s buzzy kitchen turns out the likes of whole fish – butterflied, grilled and painted with parsley sauce on one side and smoky red adobo on the other – in a beautiful blue dining room. Another hero dish is its tuna tostada, which comes topped with chipotle aïoli and sushi-grade tuna. Our favourite breakfast comes from Fonda Margarita, a no-frills café under a corrugated iron roof where diners can start their day with frijoles refritos con huevos (fried corn tortillas, cheese, beans, salsa and eggs), churros and hot sweet coffee. Get there at 7am to avoid the rush (most dishes are gone by 10am). For another traditional CDMX experience, visit Restaurante El Cardenal, a 1969 spot with dark-wood furniture, white tablecloths and a vivid mural painted on one wall, which all adds to the atmosphere. On the menu, you’ll find a wide selection of tacos, pilbil, quesadilla and four mole with braised meat. For a more contemporary approach, Meroma in Roma served the likes of tagliolini in a beef ragout with smoked tomato and hoja santa, and adobo-marinated fish collar with coriander, bonito and avocado in beautiful surroundings. Rosetta, also in Roma, is a Michelin-starred spot that serves an a la carte menu that could feature quail with plum mole, pickled paloma mushrooms and mustard leaf or beetroot tartare al pastor. And, finally, Quintonil in Polanco is a special spot for experimental Mexican cooking. Book a seat at the counter and try the likes of grasshopper tacos, mussel tostada and coconut sorbet with plankton and caviar. Marrakech, Morocco Bustling souks and busy night markets remain the life force of Marrakech. Within the old city walls that define its historic Medina, there are food stalls where you’ll find steaming tagines, couscous loaded with slow-cooked meats and bowls of harira chickpea soup being ladled out to locals. Everything is best eaten elbow to elbow at communal tables, accompanied by mint tea or strong Moroccan coffee. You can find some of the best coffee at showstopping Bacha – decorated with countless colourful tiles, the café’s single-origin drinks are served alongside delicate pastries, making it the ideal spot to recharge after a morning of exploring the souks. Staying within the Medina, you’ll find Le Tobsil, a romantic dining spot in a candlelit courtyard where multi-course Moroccan feasts are served with spiced teas and traditional hospitality. There’s also Le Jardin, where mezze platters, bright salads and grilled meats, such as lamb chops with aubergine and pistachio, are eaten in a tiled courtyard shaded with palms. Elsewhere, Sahbi Sahbi is a female-led restaurant that uses recipes passed down through generations. Interiors conjure the Arabian desert with terracotta walls and woven accents, while the menu shows off classic Moroccan cuisine. Think: lamb and aubergine tagines, slow-cooked meats and stone-baked breads. Another excellent female-run restaurant is Al Fassia (order the lamb tagine with prunes). You can’t visit Marrakech without popping into the Royal Mansour for a drink. One of the world’s most beautiful hotels, this former Moroccan palace is home to Le Jardin, a lovely courtyard with parasols and palms. La Mamounia is another hotel with heritage. We love the terrace of its Bar Majorelle bar for a saffron white negroni with garden views. More travel guides Best Italian hotels for food lovers to visit Best European mountain escapes Best Mediterranean islands for foodies 5 coolcations ideas for food lovers 10 UK and European hotels with Michelin-starred restaurants 10 unique walking holidays for food lovers 11 UNESCO cities of gastronomy to visit 12 foodies share the European holiday destinations you need to know
Best European mountain escapes to visit in 2025
Discover the best European mountain escapes to visit in 2025, from a relaxing treetop retreat in the Dolomites, to an ancient spa nestled in the Troodos mountains in Cyprus
Whether you're after a restorative getaway or want to go hiking surrounded by beautiful scenery, a holiday in the mountains offers the ultimate escape. Breathe in fresh mountain air, spot unique wildlife and soak up the views, surrounded by nature. From architectural hideouts in the Italian Dolomites and the forests of the Bavarian Alps, to an ecotourism getaway in Cyprus, Europe offers a wealth of luxury mountain escapes to visit – discover our picks below of the best mountain hotels that foodies will love. Looking for more travel inspiration? Read our guides to the best saunas to visit in the UK, the best Italian hotels for food lovers and 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting. Best European mountain escapes 2025 Forestis, Dolomites, Italy Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it My Arbor, South Tyrol, Italy Rooms from £206 per night based on two people sharing a Nest Suite; check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or My Arbor Expect to be whisked high above the clouds at this architectural hideout in the Dolomites. Conveniently situated just 50 minutes from Bolzano airport, My Arbor stands proud on stilts against the snow-capped South Tyrolean mountains, making this the perfect spot to experience treetop seclusion. Guests are greeted with the signature cocktail, The Arborene, with its warming blend of sweet vermouth and homemade orange-cinnamon liqueur, best enjoyed on the sun-kissed patio. The hotel has more than 100 south-facing suites, each adorned with reclaimed wood from sunburnt larches and firs from the Eisack Valley. Features include large panoramic windows, a private terrace and a cosy nook for hunkering down with a book. With most of the produce for the restaurant sourced directly from Lake Garda and harvested by owner Markus Huber, sustainability is more than just a concept here. The tasting menu changes daily and is often centred around a theme (think ‘essence of water’ or ‘nature’s delight’). Expect bold flavours, from swordfish tagliata with saffron risotto to onsen eggs with potato truffle espuma. The breakfast buffet is an assortment of local treats, including a juice bar for turmeric and ginger shots, eggs as you like them and homemade breads such as South Tyrolean schüttelbrot – a crunchy flatbread peppered with fragrant spices. Make sure you carve out time to experience an invigorating sauna infusion where the sauna master uses balls of snow enriched with essential oils to control the heat and deepen relaxation. Schloss Elmau, Bavarian Alps, Germany Rooms from £580 per night based on two people sharing; check availability at booking.com or Schloss Elmau Set against the backdrop of the Wetterstein mountains and framed by an abundant pine forest and the icy blue Ferchenbach river, it’s hard not to lose yourself in the scenery and facilities at Schloss Elmau. While staying here, guests can enjoy access to six spas, eight restaurants, a concert hall and two hotels (The Retreat and The Hideaway). The lofty presidential suites at The Retreat are softened with plush furnishings, with an Indian elephant motif woven into the textiles, and are designed to show off panoramic mountain views – take your pick between a luxurious free-standing bath or regal chaise longue to soak up the snowscapes. Restaurant Tutto Mondo offers twists on comforting Alpine cuisine, including homemade tagliolini blanketed in Piedmont truffles. At the neighbouring pan-Asian restaurant Fidelio, expect succulent meats grilled over binchōtan charcoal and paired with foamed nori butter. For those wanting a touch more luxury, opt for the two Michelin starred Ikigai. Breakfast is equally bountiful, with a selection of smoothies and health shots, creamy bircher muesli and homemade breads – including the well-loved German pumpernickel that’s ready to be topped with honey from Schloss Elmau’s bees. Start the day with a soothing golden milk – a silky, fragrant hot drink infused with turmeric, cinnamon and maple syrup. As well as its next-level food and drink options, Schloss Elmau boasts a programme of activities for guests, including yoga, qigong, curling, concerts and cross-country skiing. Ideal for switching off and hunkering down. Nordelaia, Piedmont, Italy Rooms from £261 per night; check availability at Mr & Mrs Smith, booking.com or Nordelaia This stunning property lies in rural Piedmont, a region suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800- year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are both contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, complete with freestanding baths for an extra dose of opulence. The four rooms on the first floor are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes that surround the property: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn and pearly whites in winter. Two outdoor pools (one heated, one not, but both with views for miles) entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its stone floors and arches, and barrel-vaulted brick ceiling, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here, chef Charles Pearce pays homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. His take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta – is instead paired with grilled prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms served with a deeply savoury, anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Priesteregg, Leogang, Austria Berg chalet from £280 per person per night based on two people sharing, including breakfast and spa access; check availability at Priesteregg Surrounded by the snow-dusted Alps, this collection of 15 wooden chalets is reminiscent of a mountain village. Sitting at a height of 1,100 metres there are panoramic views with fresh Alpine air and the aroma of woodsmoke to greet you on arrival. The focus is on traditional local food using highquality ingredients – bread is freshly baked in a stone oven, bacon is smoked in a smoking chamber and the local cows provide the creamiest milk and butter. Each chalet is generously stocked with local treats and every morning guests are delivered breakfast bundles of cured meats, salmon, cheeses, fresh fruits and baked goods. In the evening you can request to dine in your chalet or bundle up and walk to Huwi’s Alm, the on-site restaurant. The signature dish is an event in itself, served on an iron hat that’s heated by small burners. Diners are given a selection of marinated organic steaks and pork loin to cook, with the brim of the hat filled with a rich beef and vegetable soup that gets more intense as the cooking continues. It’s served with crisp baked potatoes, salad and a selection of sauces. Chalets are a combination of beautiful natural materials and modern luxuries. Glass-fronted bedrooms, mountain views, freestanding outdoor baths, suspended fireplaces, private saunas and snow-clad rooftop hot tubs are just some of the unique features. Sheepskin rugs, cosy sofas and the softest bedding make it hard to leave the comfort of your chalet, despite the ski slopes across the valley being in sight of the sun decks. Wellness is taken very seriously here, too – guests can swim in the heated infinity pool next to an open fireplace, relax in Swiss pine saunas or take an invigorating guided dip in the unheated outdoor nature pool. The expansive open-air terrace has luxurious loungers, pillows and blankets to make the most of the winter sun. Casale Panayiotis, Cyprus From £286 based on a two-night stay for two adults in a comfort studio; check availability at booking.com, Hilton or Casale Panayiotis Nestled in the heart of the Troodos Mountains, the climate is noticeably cooler at Casale Panayiotis than down by the Cyprus coast. An agrotourism project saved Kalopanayiotis village from extinction nearly 13 years ago, restoring the historical buildings to their former glory in the form of 29 beautiful rooms and stone cottage suites. The award-winning spa complete with hydrotherapy pool, sauna, herbal steam room and private outdoor whirlpool harks back to the village’s ancient spa origins. Restaurants celebrate local ingredients, including seasonal fruit and veg from the on-site orchards. Byzantino Restaurant spotlights traditional Cypriot dishes, while Pantheon offers casual dining among magnificent mountain views. Grill restaurant Loutraki serves pan-seared, locally sourced trout, premium fillet steak and chicken breast ballotine. Local cultural, culinary and sporting activities are available to be booked for those seeking adventure and new experiences. 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We pick the best foodie places to stay in this south-western county, from a stylish farmhouse retreat with its own smokehouse to a jaunty harbourside b&b with outstanding breakfasts
Looking for the best places to stay in Cornwall? After a bed and breakfast on the Cornish coast? Want to find a romantic hotel in Cornwall? From St Ives to Penzance, we've rounded up the best foodie hotels in Cornwall, from seaside bed and breakfasts to Cornish farmhouse retreats, as well as restaurants with rooms to stay in Cornwall. See our guide to the best restaurants in Cornwall for all the best places to eat and drink during your stay. Now discover UK spa hotels for food lovers, the best hotel baths worth travelling for in the UK or our best European hidden gem hotels for more travel inspiration. Best Cornwall hotels for food lovers Pedn Olva, St Ives Doubles from £136, check availability at booking.com or pednolva.co.uk Perched on the granite rocks above the sands of Porthminster Beach, the Pedn Olva has recently undergone a transformation, creating a luxurious space to spend a long, lazy weekend. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer breathtaking views of every angle from the sweep of St Ives Bay out to the open sea and all along the beach. Grab a pint of Mena Dhu stout in the cosy Lookout nook for seal and dolphin spotting or head to one of the open terraces (including a huge roof terrace) for panoramic views. The décor is warm and inviting with loungy mid-century modern chairs, sheepskin throws and reclaimed wood tables. Walls showcase the work of local artists in a nod to St Ives’ colourful art history. Rooms have been given a plush makeover with rich upholstery in mustard and soft blues, and warm wood cladding. There are cloud-like Hypnos beds and Nespresso machines should you want to linger over morning coffee. Bathrooms are generous with rainfall showers and toiletries from Cornish company Land & Water. We stayed in a snug dog-friendly room which had the advantage of its own outside entrance with a route directly down steps to the beach – perfect for sunrise swims and late-night walks. The menus showcase local suppliers with spankingly fresh fish dishes such as grilled half-shell scallops with Café de Paris butter or steamed mussels in Cornish cider alongside pub classics and daily changing specials. Breakfast is a hearty affair with eggs benedict or smashed avo toast, or keep things simple with a full fry-up. Served up until 11am it makes for a leisurely start to the day. Doubles from £200, check availability at booking.com or pednolva.co.uk Havener's Bar & Grill, Fowey Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com Fowey is a pretty, buzzy harbour town in the south of Cornwall. Set in a designated area of outstanding natural beauty, the town has a rich maritime history and, in season, the harbour is still filled with yachts (there’s also a Royal Regatta each summer). Narrow cobbled streets wind uphill from the quayside and there is a lively independent shopping, eating and drinking scene. Sitting in a prime position right on the quayside is Havener’s Bar and Grill, a restaurant with five stylish bedrooms and an apartment above it. The restaurant itself has a hearty menu with lots of pub classics, traditional desserts and extremely generous portions. There's a well-priced wine list and selection of Cornish beers. We stayed in the Havener’s self-contained, two-bedroom Waterside Apartment (also dog-friendly). It comes with a huge wrap-around balcony overlooking the river and estuary with plenty of room for a table, chairs and loungers. The spacious rooms are cozily furnished and there is the same river view from the large lounge and dining room windows so you can happily read, eat, drink and doze in or out of the sun. The kitchen is really well equipped, too, so impromptu meals are easy to put together. Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com Trevose Harbour House, St Ives Doubles from £165, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk The best bed and breakfast in St Ives... Breakfast is an art form at Trevose Harbour House, in the higgledy-piggledy artistic hub that is St Ives (home of the Tate Modern and the Barbara Hepworth Museum). A jaunty boutique B&B, with six nautical-themed rooms, a smattering of Ercol and harbour views, the focus is firmly on local and organic. Start with a smoothie 'shot of the day' then choose from their version of the continental or a hot dish. The continental is a smorgasbord of homemade bircher muesli, granola parfait, organic yoghurt, fresh fruit, seasonal fruit compote, homemade organic multigrain granola, freshly baked pain au chocolat, pain aux raisins and local organic bread smeared with homemade jams. Along with the full English, cooked options include a hot croissant filled with runny Cornish brie, ham and tomato. Doubles from £165, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Artist Residence, Penzance Doubles from £140, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk A coolly colourful 17-bedroom hotel in Penzance’s old quarter with a relaxed vibe (checked blankets, yellow Roberts radios, contemporary artworks) and a retro-chic restaurant and bar, The Cornish Barn. The menu in the restaurant includes meat and fish from its in-house smokehouse, or tuck into tapas-style dishes of deep-fried squid with chilli, lime and salt, and parsnip rösti with caramelised shallots and goat’s cheese. Dessert is rum-infused crème brûlée, hazelnut brittle and homemade banana ice cream. Doubles from £140, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk The Greenbank, Falmouth Doubles from £143, check availability at booking.com Perched on Falmouth’s waterside, with its own private pontoon, The Greenbank is a little piece of Cornish history in itself, originally serving as a lodging house for sea captains during the town’s maritime heyday before becoming a full-blown hotel (20th century guests included Florence Nightingale and Wind in the Willows author, Kenneth Grahame, whose most famous book is thought to have been based on letters he wrote while staying there). Super-comfy king size beds, crisp sheets, fluffy robes and a white-tiled bathroom complete with huge walk-in shower and White Company toiletries all added to the luxurious feel, as did the calm and muted colour palette, speckled with little flashes of sea-blue. Breakfast is as equally impressive as the view you get while eating it (the Water’s Edge restaurant runs the whole length of the front of the hotel). If you don’t fancy a Full Cornish you can tuck into smoked haddock and poached eggs, eggs Benedict or porridge with Rodda’s clotted cream. Doubles from £143, check availability at booking.com Coombeshead Farm, Launceston Doubles from £165, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or coombesheadfarm.co.uk There are 66 acres of meadow, copse and wooded riverbank to scour for the perfect picnic spot at Coombeshead Farm. Once the dairy farm for the Trelaske estate, this is the latest venture from British chefs Tom Adams (of London restaurant Pitt Cue) and April Bloomfield (who set up Michelin-starred gastropub The Spotted Pig in the States). A working farm, and guesthouse, it's a pulse-racing addition to Cornwall's culinary scene. There are nine bedrooms (and one adjoining bunk room) in the rambling 18th-century Georgian farmhouse, which squints over at Dartmoor on the horizon. Plus a dining room where Adams and Bloomfield dish up dinner at the 'feasting table' - expect produce from their smokehouse, curing and pickling rooms. For breakfast there's homemade yoghurt, bread, freshly milled oats and grains, preserves, butters, ham, bacon and cheeses to tuck into. Doubles from £165, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or coombesheadfarm.co.uk Kudhva, Tintagel Doubles from £143, check availability at booking.com or kudhva.com Drive down narrow lanes flanked by towering green hedges on Cornwall’s wild Atlantic coast to discover Kudhva, an off-grid glampsite near Trebarwith Strand. Set up by leatherworker Louise Middleton, this disused quarry has been transformed into a verdant enclave where visitors can stay in tree tents, rigged above ground, or in one of four kudhva – compact wood-and-metal cabins on stilts. In the midst of this bucolic setting is a self-catering glamping site. Expect flushing toilets, solar-powered showers, your own fire pit, a communal kitchen and even an outdoor hot tub, while the rustic surroundings are reflected in the décor – much of the furniture and structures are wooden and handmade, with jars of velvety fern fronds and wildflowers decorating most surfaces. Doubles from £143, check availability at booking.com or kudhva.com Havener’s Bar and Grill, Fowey Doubles from £145, check availability at booking.com Looking for hotels in South Cornwall? Fowey is a pretty, buzzy harbour town. Set in a designated area of outstanding natural beauty, the town has a rich maritime history and, in season, the harbour is still filled with yachts (there’s also a Royal Regatta each summer). Narrow cobbled streets wind uphill from the quayside and there is a lively independent shopping, eating and drinking scene. Sitting in a prime position right on the quayside is Havener’s Bar and Grill, a restaurant with five stylish bedrooms and an apartment above it. The hearty food menu has plenty of pub classics such as fish and chips, steak and burgers but also offers some slightly more refined cooking with lots of local fish and seafood. Doubles from £145, check availability at booking.com The St Tudy Inn, St Tudy Doubles from £150, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Emily Scott's gastropub The St Tudy Inn in the little Cornish village of the same name is also home to simple, stylish bedrooms, too. Good news for fans of her rustic, seasonal menus, as you can stumble straight up to bed after dinner. Doubles from £150, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk The Scarlet, Mawgan Porth Doubles from £275, check availability at scarlethotel.co.uk Looking for romantic hotels in Cornwall? The only routine at The Scarlet, a hotel perching on the edge of Mawgan Porth, is the regularity of the tide: the cool waters pulling back to reveal soft golden sand and thousands of lead-coloured mussels that cling to the rocks as stubbornly as guests lie on the loungers a few metres above. Rooms, which are spread over five levels, come with their own outdoor space and open-plan bathrooms to ensure the connection with the view is never broken. The goosebump-inducing outdoor pool is naturally filtered with reeds, while the indoor pool is heated by solar panels. Dinner is served in a dramatically quirky three-AA-rosette dining room that makes most sense when the curtains are pulled back to reveal the views. One day you might have Cornish hake with lobster ravioli, cured ham, lobster bisque and cucumber, the next a twice-baked Cornish Crackler cheese soufflé with candied walnut and Devon Cox’s apple salad. Like the hotel as a whole, it’s well considered but far from formal. Doubles from £275, check availability at scarlethotel.co.uk Trewornan Manor, Wadebridge Doubles from £180, check availability at booking.com Luxury B&B Trewornan Manor may date back to the 13th century but its attitude to food is firmly forward thinking. Close to the Camel Estuary, and surrounded by 25 acres of gardens and meadows, the four-bedroom property (Porthilly and Daymer feature freestanding tubs) is fast becoming a gourmet destination. Highlights include an honesty bar stocked with Sharp's Doom Bar, a beer brewed down the road in Rock, and Camel Valley sparkling wine; breakfasts that focus on the best Cornish produce (butcher Philip Warrens in nearby Launceston is one of the suppliers); and a location that’s just a napkin’s throw from Rick Stein's empire in Padstow. Doubles from £180, check availability at booking.com Chapel House, Penzance Doubles from £200, check availability at chapelhousepz.co.uk One of the best bed and breakfasts in Cornwall... Nobody has coined the right term yet for the ‘B&B plus’, according to Susan Stuart, owner of Chapel House in Penzance. Many luxury B&Bs now offer far more than a traditional guesthouse yet don't fall into the boutique hotel category. Chapel House, once the Penzance Arts Club, is certainly one of those. Relishing a new lease of life after an extensive renovation, the stately Georgian building is now light and bright, with six sleek bedrooms and walls hung with striking modern artworks. As well as slap-up communal breakfasts (sizzled cod roe, samphire, smoked bacon and poached egg is a Cornish speciality) Stuart hosts gourmet suppers, long Sunday brunches and lunches, foraging and feasting weekends, guest chef demos, Saturday morning children's cookery classes and has a home-from-home, right-to-roam attitude to the fridge. Doubles from £200, check availability at chapelhousepz.co.uk Haybarton, Tregony Doubles from £120, check availability at haybarton.com or airbnb.com (for The Potager self-catering let) Another fab B&B in Cornwall, the previous winner of Alistair Sawday's 'most praised breakfast award' Haybarton is a farmhouse B&B with just three pretty rooms and a self-catering let The Potager on Cornwall's picturesque Roseland Peninsula. After tumbling out of bed and gazing out over rolling farmland as you run a bath in the roll-top tub, you can wander downstairs to its flagstoned dining room to feast on scrambled eggs (from their own Maran hens), sausages and bacon from the local Kernow Sausage Company, homemade granola baked in the Aga and local artisan breads spread with homemade marmalade and locally produced honey. Doubles from £120, check availability at haybarton.com or airbnb.com (for The Potager self-catering let) More hotel guides Best country house hotels in the UK Best health and wellness retreats Best hotels in London Best UK boutique hotels Best hotels in the Cotswolds Best Cornwall hotels Best hotels in the Lake District Best London hotel bars to visit Best romantic hotels in the UK European hidden gems: hotels off the beaten track Best Paris hotels Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best restaurants with rooms in the UK Best Amsterdam hotels Best Scottish hotels
Celebrate Nigeria’s bold and diverse flavours, from smoky jollof rice to fiery roasted dishes — a feast that captures the country’s vibrant spirit
Want to learn about Nigerian cooking? Looking for recipes from Nigeria? Check out these recipes, then discover our guides to Ethiopian food and Tunisian food, then try our West African recipes. Celebrate Nigeria’s rich and diverse food culture with a feast of vibrant flavours and bold spices. Across hundreds of tribes and traditions one thing remains the same — a love of big personalities and even bigger flavours. Try sweet and savoury favourites such as chin chin, puff-puff and suya, alongside plantain chips and refreshing chapman. Each dish tells a story of heritage, hospitality and togetherness — a cuisine built on generosity, community and a zest for life. Nigerian recipes Nigerian-style roast lamb This dish holds a special place in Jess and Jo Edun’s hearts, created while cooking with their grandma in her Hackney kitchen. Lamb was her favourite and this recipe honours the Easters spent feeding the family, with memories of her bold, rich flavours. A pillar of her community, their grandma’s love for spice is captured in this dish. Slow-cooked, juicy lamb that melts in your mouth, seasoned with suya spice – a Nigerian street-food classic from the north. Combining the best of British and Nigerian flavours, this lamb is a perfect Easter dish, best served hot with jollof rice or roast potatoes, or both! Nigerian jollof rice Jollof rice is more than just a dish – it’s a cultural icon that sparks debates and brings people together, representing the vibrant essence of West African cuisine. At Flygerians, Jess and Jo Edun put their own spin on this classic, blending sweet Nigerian flavours with their signature smoky depth that keeps people coming back. The Flygerian jollof isn’t just for special occasions, it’s an everyday experience. Their late grandmother always said that good jollof takes time and patience and now, every time they cook it, they’re reminded of family gatherings filled with laughter and love. This recipe is perfect for sharing – best served hot with plantain, it works as both a main or a side. Nigerian egusi soup Egusi soup is a beloved Nigerian classic, often served during celebrations like weddings, naming ceremonies and family reunions. With roots in West Africa its preparation and ingredients can vary across regions. Jess and Jo Edun add their Flygerian twist by using spinach and/or ugwu (pumpkin leaf), while others may opt for bitter leaf. Nigerian efo riro Everyone deserves to leave the table full, with heartwarming food that nourishes both the body and soul. Jo and Jess Edun have taken the traditional Nigerian efo riro, usually made with meat, and perfected it for their family. This vegan-friendly version is packed with healthy spinach and loved by vegans and non-vegans alike. While it’s perfect year-round, it’s especially great during Easter, served with white rice, extra-crunchy roast potatoes or fried cassava. Ewa agoyin A comforting Nigerian classic made with black-eyed beans, ewa agoyin can easily be made vegan by swapping or omitting a few ingredients. Jess and Jo Edun say it’s a dish that works at any time of day – breakfast, lunch or dinner – because good food shouldn’t come with rules. Traditionally served with boiled yam, cassava, agege bread or fried plantain, it’s also delicious topped with a fried egg for something a little extra. Recipe extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flygerians-Cookbook-recipes-Nigerian-speak/dp/1788796225/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GJN3GP3U868L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7KIE-A6s6IiF-4CdfHQaM-iwZwvsDcBJ-CEwgYjXVav4qRuNwSvieWXdsVfej5dQRQFmvt861TbJ3djdA8U-WqZlOsOaI6FvcgUelFCitD1zQfL1NT32zyq47F_mt_ntHWU7KSUNcmzoq-5H7ojhiKxb03U3lKcLcRPzCezhUWx_AC63iwa9f85d-ZfkFUHadg0Rft8OHCNo9lWrdPTKR-XbprphYXVCOjNJ-YZBari-uLEqhJ-oQ3x5FRIbpZdM.p-Ui4STKqjb-PLrGaHVcEA-ellgSP1MKGrqW8CFjeEE&dib_tag=se&keywords=flygerian&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736339817&s=books&sprefix=flygerian%2Cstripbooks%2C70&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-273935" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">The Flygerians Cookbook by Jess and Jo Edun (£22, Ryland Peters & Small) and not retested by us. Photographs by Clare Winfield. Beef suya With its melt-in-the-mouth texture this is Nigeria’s number one street food. It’s bursting with cultural history and, most importantly, vibes. Beef suya is just as good as a snack or as a centrepiece and has a unique, beautiful flavour. You will need 10 skewers for this recipe. Recipe extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flygerians-Cookbook-recipes-Nigerian-speak/dp/1788796225/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GJN3GP3U868L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7KIE-A6s6IiF-4CdfHQaM-iwZwvsDcBJ-CEwgYjXVav4qRuNwSvieWXdsVfej5dQRQFmvt861TbJ3djdA8U-WqZlOsOaI6FvcgUelFCitD1zQfL1NT32zyq47F_mt_ntHWU7KSUNcmzoq-5H7ojhiKxb03U3lKcLcRPzCezhUWx_AC63iwa9f85d-ZfkFUHadg0Rft8OHCNo9lWrdPTKR-XbprphYXVCOjNJ-YZBari-uLEqhJ-oQ3x5FRIbpZdM.p-Ui4STKqjb-PLrGaHVcEA-ellgSP1MKGrqW8CFjeEE&dib_tag=se&keywords=flygerian&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736339817&s=books&sprefix=flygerian%2Cstripbooks%2C70&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-273935" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">The Flygerians Cookbook by Jess and Jo Edun (£22, Ryland Peters & Small) and not retested by us. Photographs by Clare Winfield. Mighty Supermalt wings There’s nothing quite like Supermalt – the rich, malty drink that’s earned a permanent spot in Nigerian households. Sweet, bold and unmistakably nostalgic, it’s a staple at celebrations across the country. Jess and Jo Edun’s Supermalt wings are a tribute to their mama (grandma), who adored the drink. Inspired by memories of dancing around the kitchen together, they’ve created a dish that’s full of warmth and flavour, bringing people from all walks of life to the table. Prefer something milder? Simply skip the scotch bonnet for a gentler kick. Recipe extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flygerians-Cookbook-recipes-Nigerian-speak/dp/1788796225/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GJN3GP3U868L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7KIE-A6s6IiF-4CdfHQaM-iwZwvsDcBJ-CEwgYjXVav4qRuNwSvieWXdsVfej5dQRQFmvt861TbJ3djdA8U-WqZlOsOaI6FvcgUelFCitD1zQfL1NT32zyq47F_mt_ntHWU7KSUNcmzoq-5H7ojhiKxb03U3lKcLcRPzCezhUWx_AC63iwa9f85d-ZfkFUHadg0Rft8OHCNo9lWrdPTKR-XbprphYXVCOjNJ-YZBari-uLEqhJ-oQ3x5FRIbpZdM.p-Ui4STKqjb-PLrGaHVcEA-ellgSP1MKGrqW8CFjeEE&dib_tag=se&keywords=flygerian&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736339817&s=books&sprefix=flygerian%2Cstripbooks%2C70&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-273935" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">The Flygerians Cookbook by Jess and Jo Edun (£22, Ryland Peters & Small) and not retested by us. Photographs by Clare Winfield.
South Tyrol's cuisine: 10 things we love
Local chefs Roland Lamprecht and Florian Fink share what makes the cuisine of this Austro-Italian alpine region (also known as Alto Adige) unique
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of this northern region of Italy so special from local chefs Roland Lamprecht and Florian Fink. From festive traditions to local pasta dishes and excellent wines, there is plenty for foodies to enjoy. Plus, we share some of the top places to eat in the region and our picks of the best places to stay. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, the Algarve in Portugal, Cork in Ireland or Istria in Croatia. Jump to: Where to eat and drink in South Tyrol Where to stay in South Tyrol South Tyrol cuisine: 10 things we love Austro-Italian culture The region’s difficult recent history is now embraced in a fusion of Austrian and Italian cuisines and culture. Historically the South Tyrolean kitchen is German-Austrian, featuring the likes of dumplings, veal schnitzel and kaiserschmarrn, but the Italians have added elegance, plus fish, vegetables, olive oil and salt. The two cultures – along with the Mediterranean and mountain climates – are now very much intertwined, to the extent that all towns have both an Austrian and Italian name. Speck While many cured meats are popular in South Tyrol, speck is the most popular (previously smoked venison). This air-dried, cold-smoked ham is lightly spiced and encased in a juniper crust. PGI-protected farmhouse bauernspeck is made only with the highest-quality meat and has a higher ratio of nutty marbled fat that melts on the tongue. Its red and white colour reflects the Tyrolean flag, and it’s a signature ingredient in countless dishes. Törggelen Celebrated following the grape harvest in late September or early October, and running through the end of November, Törggelen, the region’s ‘fifth season’, is a culinary trademark. It’s a time when Alpine huts and farmhouses throw open their doors for tastings of freshly pressed wine (grape must), alongside roasted chestnuts, large feasts (featuring schlachtplatte meat plates), folk tales and merriment. Knödel dumplings There are more than 20 types of regional dough dumplings, from rustic buckwheat to those flecked with spinach and herbs, and even sweet varieties made with apricot or plum. It’s a versatile dish, served as a soup garnish, main or side, that reflects our rich agricultural traditions inherited from generations past. Venison We use a lot of game meat, particularly venison, as it is abundant in the forests and includes roe deer and chamois. There’s also hare and wildfowl. The meat is naturally lean and healthy, and can be enjoyed in a variety of ways – braised, raw or roasted – always offering that distinct game flavour. Festive sweet treats Zelten is a traditional sweet bread flecked with dried fruit, nuts and spices. It’s a hybrid of Italy’s panettone and Austria’s stollen. We usually come together as a family to prepare it around 1 December then take it along to gatherings through the festive season. Other popular regional treats are krapfen (chewy doughnuts usually filled with apricot jam), apfelküchlein (apple fritters) and knieküchle (deep-fried dough with a thin middle and thicker edges). Christmas traditions South Tyrol is very religious, so Christmas is an important holiday. We mark Christmas Eve with soup and bread, and usually the 25th involves a centrepiece of braised venison or fillet of roast beef served with potatoes, red cabbage and herb dumplings to soak up the jus. Many traditional households celebrate with a bauernbratl (farmer’s roast) of pork belly or ribs in a caraway seed marinade. Pasta dishes The contemporary Italian influence is evident in the likes of ravioli filled with spinach and mountain cheese, tagliatelle with venison ragu and mountain herb pesto stirred through spaghetti. The most traditional regional speciality is schlutzkrapfen – ravioli-like pasta pockets, often filled with porcini mushrooms. Wine South Tyrolean wines have a great reputation, dating back hundreds of years thanks to wine-making traditions in the monasteries. The Eisack Valley makes the most of warm days and cold nights, which results in excellent fresh white and sparkling varieties. Merano and Bolzano, in the south of the region, benefit instead from warmer climates for elegant reds. Ladin culture A unique combination of German and Latin, this small Alpine community is one rooted in folklore and ancient traditions. The Ladin communities live in two valleys in the heart of the Dolomites: Val Gardena and Alta Badia. Signature dishes include ravioli-like cajinci, panicia barley soup and sweet grappa-infused furtaies (‘funnel cakes’), traditionally served to celebrate wedding engagements. Where to eat and drink in South Tyrol Finsterwirt and Vitis, Brixen Though housed in one of the oldest buildings in town, enveloped in wood panelling and stained glass, the tucked-away Finsterwirt restaurant serves creative contemporary plates, such as veal with salsa verde, Eisack Valley wine soup and duck leg with potato rösti and orange jus. Adjoining wine bar Vitis is home to 500 wines, many of which are local and best sipped by the stone fountain in the leafy courtyard. adlerbrixen.com Toma Spirit & Winebar, Bolzano Local duo Tobias and Marian’s compact but well-stocked wine bar is a great spot to soak up Bolzano’s bustling vibe while tasting some of the region’s finest wines by the glass, from Appiano’s sparkling elegant pinot bianco, to cabernet franc grown on the slopes above Lake Caldaro. instagram.com/toma.bozen Wirtshaus Vögele, Bolzano This traditional inn was an ancient meeting spot for poets, philosophers and intellectuals, and has wood-panelled walls that provide cosy surrounds for South Tyrolean classics such as spinach ravioli with bacon butter, wiener schnitzel, apple strudel and kaiserschmarrn. voegele.it Apollonia, Sirmiano Perched in the hills up a winding road above Bolzano, this Alpine guesthouse serves cuisine from Alto Adige and dramatic views of the Dolomites. Most ingredients are locally foraged or grown on site to create spicy beef goulash with speck dumplings, Passeier Valley char fillet with herby sweet potato cream and affogato doused in homemade nut liqueur. apollonia.it Decantei, Brixen Set in a cloistered courtyard, this is an atmospheric spot to try hearty South Tyrolean dishes – a colourful trio of knödel dumplings, pumpkin-topped ravioli and deep-fried puffed potato dough blattln with sauerkraut – alongside a wide selection of craft beers. decantei.it Where to stay in South Tyrol Forestis, Plose At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Fink, Brixen Nestled in the arcades of one of Brixen’s oldest monastery townhouses, this boutique hotel has been passed down through four generations. Husband-and-wife owners Petra and Florian Fink have a deep respect for the 1450s building, creating an intentionally minimalist feel to allow original features to shine in the nine suites – thick stone walls left bare, restored ceiling frescoes decorating cosy window seats and the terrazzo flooring flecked with South Tyrolean stone. A compact vaulted spa awaits behind an ancient wooden door, its central stone plunge pool ideal for cooling down after sessions in the sauna, steam room and Roman bath outhouse. Choose to dine in the chic vaulted restaurant or outside beneath the arcade’s graceful curves. Florian curates produce from 50 local farmers – most specialising in a single ingredient – for his fresh, simple, zero-waste monastery kitchen style. The main menu is vegetarian and includes clever alternatives, such as root veg tartare, tagliolini with red cabbage cream and black truffle, and organic grain ravioli filled with chanterelles and mountain cheese. Meat and fish options are succinct and include local game and freshwater fish, from lake trout fillet to venison stew with beetroot dumplings, and veal schnitzel with lingonberry sauce. Sweet plum dumplings come with black beer ice cream, while three South Tyrolean apple varieties are showcased in a tartlet with ricotta and caramel sauce. An elegant breakfast kicks off with a soothing herb broth followed by fresh juices and fruit salads, crudités to dunk into herb ricotta and compotes to spread over warm croissants and breads, plus made-to-order spelt pancakes and crisp buckwheat waffles. fink1896.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
Looking for places to visit in Greece? Check out our top Greek food trips and discover where to eat and drink across the country
Looking for places to visit in Greece? Check out our top Greek food trips and discover where to eat and drink across the country, from eating souvlaki surrounded by history in Athens to island escapes on Crete, Sifnos and Ithaca. Discover more of the Greek islands with our guide to the best Greek islands, along with plenty of Greek hotel recommendations. For more travel inspiration, check out our best Portuguese food trips, best Spanish food trips and best French food trips. If you love an island getaway, we've got the 10 best Mediterranean islands for foodies to visit. Best Greek trips Athens From bougatsa with cinnamon sugar and the locals' favourite souvlaki, to aromatic Greek wines by the glass, try all these and more in the Greek capital – there's plenty of food to discover in between cultural exploration. Souvlaki – marinated meat grilled on skewers, sometimes served in pitta bread – is the fast food of choice for most Greeks. Around since the 1950s, O Kostas is one of the best places to try it in Athens (join the queue at this hole-in-the-wall for a truly authentic gyros experience; there’s no website but you’ll find it at Pentelis 5, near Syntagma Square). Or, for an updated (albeit smaller) version, make your way to Hoocut (“butcher’s cut”), where a group of enterprising young chefs has put an artisanal spin on the dish, using carefully sourced pork, chicken, lamb and beef and serving a vegetarian version, too. Home to a famous flea market and several scenic (if tourist-heavy) ancient landmarks, the Monastiraki neighbourhood is a must-visit. Here, Café Avissinia’s artful mish-mash of blowsy wallpaper, marble-topped tables, antiques and picture-strung walls proves the perfect backdrop to its homely mix of traditional bistro-style cooking. In true Greek style, it’s a place to casually pop in to at any time of day, with a menu that covers the whole country but is marginally skewed towards Macedonian cuisine: try the stuffed sour cabbage with pork, or cheese-filled baked potatoes. Where to stay: At the centre of ERGON House’s double-height agora (gathering place) there’s a silvery, 200-year-old olive tree. It’s just one of the highlights at this hotel, restaurant and market. At breakfast you can sample traditional sweet or savoury pies called bougatsa, while the all-day dining menu includes Greek meze, pasta, fish and meat. There are also cookery classes on offer and, if hotel guests want to cook what they buy at the market – which sells everything from local fish to herbs (ERGON’s owners also run a string of delis) – there are communal kitchens available. Doubles from £204, check availability at booking.com Crete Greece’s largest island, food is the language of love for Crete. Set across mountain and sea, while drenched in year-round sun and carpeted in olive groves, it is an abundant natural larder of fish, meat, vegetables — Cretan horta (wild greens) are the best — fruit, honey and, of course, the finest extra virgin olive oil. The original Cretan capital and, today, its second largest city, Chania is charmingly low-key, the old town’s narrow streets tumbling down to a picturesque Venetian harbour. Its chequered history is still visible in its Minoan ruins, old city walls, Venetian lighthouse and Turkish quarter, but the harbour is now lined with fish restaurants and tavernas, while 16th-century Venetian townhouses converted into chic boutique hotels hide down little backstreets. The grand covered market hall, built in the shape of a cross at the beginning of the 20th century and modelled on the market in Marseilles, has butchers’ stalls in one arcade, fishmongers in another and speciality food stores stocked with salted sardines, glistening olives and golden oils, cheeses and charcuterie. It’s open throughout the week, but on Saturdays there’s also an open-air farmers’ market nearby. Where to stay: Set amid chestnut trees with the rugged mountainous beauty of the Kissamos region as a backdrop, Milia is a beautifully renovated collection of 15th-century stone buildings. All rooms have thick stone walls and their own fireplaces, making it perfect for cosy off-season stays, and the retreat is surrounded by an extensive network of hiking trails. The restaurant serves traditional Cretan “humble gastronomy”, such as wild greens soup and grilled aubergine spread, as well as roast baby goat, lamb with herbs and boureki courgette pot pie cooked in a wood stove. Every Wednesday, guests can join a four-hour traditional Cretan cooking session in the kitchen. Doubles from £75, check availability at milia.gr Sifnos Known as the Cycladic island of gastronomy, Sifnos is the birthplace of renowned 20th century Greek chef Nikos Tselementes, whose cookery book is still the home-cooking bible for Greeks. While on the island, you must taste two of its most traditional dishes: revithada, a slow-cooked chickpea soup with onion, garlic and bay leaves; and mastelo, lamb cooked slowly with dill and wine in one of the ceramic pots that Sifnos is synonymous with. In recent years, Sifnos has begun to draw an elegant crowd with its contemporary restaurants, notably Cantina, which perches above the water in the shadow of Kastro, the ancient capital of the island, and its new sister restaurant Pelicanos, a reimagined waterside taverna in Faros. Omega 3 is a trendy but unpretentious seafood bar: order sharing plates of taramasalata and various raw fish dishes and accompany your meal with a bottle of fresh, crisp white (ideally a malagousia). Where to stay on Sifnos: The place to stay is Verina Astra, a boutique hotel just above the idyllic swimming spot of Poulati, which opens a second restaurant in the port of Kamares this June. Doubles at Verina Astra from £349 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Peloponnese Discover the scenic Peloponnese peninsula, a region with strong Mediterranean flavours and rich culinary traditions. Olive fans should visit the coastal town of Kalamata to try the famous black olives in their namesake town. Further south, the rugged Mani Peninsula has more to explore, from the stone village of Areopoli filled with unpretentious tavernas, to fortified medieval town Monemvasia which clings to a rock off the coast. You can dine on seafood and local specialties inside the castle walls at Chrisovoulo. Charming Nafplio is another town worth visiting - a vibrant seafront destination full of neoclassical architecture and culinary delights. The Peloponnese makes for a great road trip – discover this and more in our 10 unmissable road trips for food lovers. Kefalonia A Greek island that feels unspoilt but is easy to get to. Pretty towns to explore and stunning beaches to relax on. Local specialities to discover in charming restaurants. Kefalonia ticks all the boxes of what we're looking for in a Greek island getaway. You can fly direct from several UK airports and you'll be transported to rolling hills, lush greenery, dramatic cliffs and sparkling blue sea. Myrtos Beach has been voted one of the best beaches in the world so is a must-visit for white sand sandwiched in between dramatic cliffs. Stop for fresh juices and sandwiches at Myrtillo at the top of the cliff before heading down. Hire a car to drive further along the stunning cliff road and spend time in the pretty villages of Fiskardo and Assos – ideal locations for a long lunch overlooking the water. Where to stay: Eliamos is an all-villa hotel that blends privacy with five-star hotel luxury. Designed to feel like a home away from home, 12 secluded villas are set on the hillside, divided by lavender-lined paths to create a village atmosphere. Expect high ceilings and open beams, generous bathrooms with olive oil toiletries to use in waterfall showers and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors opening onto private terraces with saltwater pools that boast uninterrupted views over the Ionian Sea. Wake up early to watch the sunrise from the breakfast terrace. The à la carte menu includes a range of egg dishes and avocado on toast variations, along with Greek specialities such as bougatsa thessalonikis (vanilla cream and cinnamon filled pastries), fresh pita and pancakes with local honey and apricot jam. The terrace is also where lunch and dinner are served: don't miss the traditional tomato fritters, a must-try that you'll want to order on repeat. When you're not relaxing by the pool, you can hire e-bikes to explore the island, have an in-room massage, take a cooking class or hit the outdoor gym. From £650, check rates and availability at eliamos.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Ithaca Visit this peaceful Ionian island to beach-hop by boat, swim in dazzling cobalt waters and graze your way through meltingly soft feta, local olives, just-caught fish and note-perfect lemon tart. There are plenty of food shops in Stavros, from a greengrocers and a fishmongers to a basic supermarket but don’t miss the shop marked 'General Store’ – the last small family-owned grocery on the island, it’s been operating since 1930 and still has beautiful old wooden cabinets towering all the way around its walls. Also in Stavros, cheerful orange-hued Cafe Margarita is the centre of local village life, in no small part thanks to owner Maria’s renowned baking skills. There are normally spinach and cheese pies on offer and, occasionally, a delicious courgette quiche but she’s also known for her rovani – local cake made with ground rice, olive oil and honey. Visit Frikes, a postcard-perfect arc of painted houses overlooking glitteringly clear water. There are plenty of cafes to choose from here but only the seriously steel-willed could miss Dodoni, the ice cream parlour. Just beware that it’s addictively good. Check out our full guide to Ithaca for more recommendations. Where to stay: stay at the Levendis Estate. Run with great care by an Aussie-Greek couple, Spero and Marilyn Raftopulos plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko, this collection of four cottages plus a swimming pool is set on Spero’s family homestead, overlooking a bay in the north of the island. Cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner, plus supplies for breakfast. You can easily stay within the Levendis gates – happy to swim in the pool and snooze in the cottage garden (each one has cleverly been designed for ultimate privacy) – or you could amble down to one of two little coves around 10-20 minutes’ walk away, the routes thrumming with butterflies and the sound of goat bells as you make your way past olive and cypress trees. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com. Spetses The name Spetses derives from an ancient Greek word that reflects the pine trees that blanket much of the island. But the Venetians also christened the island “Spezia” as it was on a major spice route, floating in the Saronic Gulf between mainland Greece and the Peloponnese. During the Greek war of Independence from Turkey, in 1821, the island played a pivotal role. Today, however, it’s a tranquil, Hellenic version of the Hamptons, albeit slightly more low-key, where some of Greece’s wealthiest dynasties come to play attracted by its verdant charm (its interior is laced with walking trails) and by quiet coves and beaches like Ligoneri Vrellas and Agioi Anargyroi. Food-wise, it's the classics that win out here: grilled octopus with parsley pesto and lobster spaghetti at taverna Patralis. Don't leave the island without sampling or buying a box of the orange blossom-scented, sugar-dusted chewy almond cookies called amygdalota. Where to stay: In the Old Harbour, the former port authority building has been sensitively restored to house the Orloff Resort. Doubles cost from £141, check availability at booking.com Rhodes Known for its ancient ruins, medieval old town and sun-drenched coastline, Rhodes is ideal for those seeking a historic retreat with exceptional food. Once home to the Colossus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the island’s Ottoman, Italian and maritime influences are clear in both the architecture and fare. For seafood lovers, Limanaki Restaurant in Kolymbia is a must – simple grilled catch of the day (choose your own fresh from the counter) is drizzled with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. For something a little less traditional, beach-front Ronda in the old town offers a stellar sushi selection and cocktails perfect for golden-hour sipping. Sweet cravings are best satisfied at Gelateria Palladion in the old town – once voted Greece’s best – the Italian-influenced architecture of the town square making it the ideal place to enjoy a scoop or two. Or cool down with local frozen yogurt at one of the many cafés housed in the signature whitewashed buildings of Lindos after an ascent up its clifftop acropolis. Where to stay in Rhodes: For a modern, laid-back stay, Casa Cook Rhodes is a stylish boho-chic adults-only retreat backed by mountains. Its two restaurants serve thoughtfully prepared dishes – expect all the meze classics like creamy taramasalata, tzatziki and hummus with warm pita or grilled souvlaki and gyros, with vegetarian options throughout. Breakfasts here are a standout: local honey drizzled over thick yogurt, scrambled eggs with salmon and a daily rotating smoothie selection. Don’t miss a chilled freddo coffee before heading off to explore. Come evening, the beach bar pulses with laid-back DJ sets, the ideal backdrop to sip on sweet local Rhodian melitio wine. While you’re there, hike up to hilltop Tsambika Monastery for panoramic views of the Med and you might even spot a goat or two. Doubles from €209 per night, check availability at casacook.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk Thessaloniki Want to explore more of the Greek mainland? Thessaloniki is Greece's second-biggest city and has plenty to offer foodies. It was the country’s first City of Gastronomy in 2021 and has a diverse cuisine influenced by its varied history from the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. Spend time in Ladadika, the historic waterfront district with pretty cobbled streets to explore, lined with colourful pastel-painted buildings and filled with tavernas, restaurants and cafes. Try local produce at the covered Modiano market and visit one of Thessaloniki's oldest bakeries, Koukos, for lunch for the famous cheese pie – a feta-filled slab of flaky filo pastry. As Thessaloniki sits on the coast, it's great for fresh fish and seafood lovers; 7 Thalasses offers simple grilled or fried fish dishes or try something unique at Mourga for the regularly changing menu based around the best fish available. Where to stay in Thessaloniki: ON Residence sits right on Thessaloniki's seafront. The elegant hotel exudes a slick, art deco vibe, retaining many original features from its 1920s-era construction from chequered black and white floor tiles to intricate ceiling mouldings. The interiors of the 60 rooms are understated but chic, with pearl grey walls and snowy white bed linen contrasting with rich, jewel-coloured velvet furniture. On-site restaurant, Olympos Naoussa, serves up a buffet-style breakfast in tastefully plush surrounds; pile your plate with anything from local cheeses to hot egg dishes and bougatsa, a traditional sweet custard pastry dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. Doubles from £150, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or hilton.com Folegandros If you want to escape the crowds of well known Greek islands like Santorini or Mykonos, add Folegandros to your wishlist instead. It is one of the lesser known Cyclades islands with a population under 1,000, no airport and one road. It's the perfect destination to switch off, slow down and simply soak up the views of the Aegean Sea. The limited phone signal should help. Visit the traditional Cycladic town of Chora, take a boat trip round the island and swim at Katergo and Livadaki beaches. For dinner, head to the main square to Kritikos. Order matsata as an accompaniment to rabbit stew, tomato-stewed rooster or kontosouvli (pork roasted on a large spit) and wash it down with the house wine. The remote taverna Papalagi offers spectacular views for a memorable meal. Where to stay in Folegandros: The opening of Gundari in 2024 helped put Folegandros on the map. This five-star eco-friendly resort is the pinnacle of sustainable luxury. Its 29 suites and villas are bio-climatically designed, using solar energy to minimise energy use, kitted in natural colours and with private pools. The cliff-edge pool with swim-up cocktail bar is as dreamy as it sounds, as is the subterranean sea view spa. The resort's own organic farm provides produce and restaurants are helmed by Greece’s first Michelin-star chef, Lefteris Lazarou, serving dishes such as squid with basil pesto, seabass carpaccio and Cycladic salad with local souroto cheese. gundari.com Doubles from £394; check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Ikaria This tiny, rugged island in the north Aegean region is renowned for longevity and a zest for life and featured as one of the Blue Zones in the Netflix series by Dan Buettner. Come to soak up the sunshine and embrace a slower pace of life. Ikaria has brilliant beaches to offer: visit Seychelles or Nas beach for super white sand and clear blue seas. The island is also home to several thermal springs that claim to reduce stress and anxiety and promote relaxation. For the more active, the island is dotted with hiking trails and 37 saves to explore. Where to stay in Ikaria: Cavos Bay Hotel & Studios has a traditional architectural style and is located on the north coast of Ikaria overlooking the stunning Armenistis Bay. Low-key and locally owned, the property oozes Greek charm and has two pools, but is also just a short stroll from a sandy beach. Doubles from £63, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Five Greek island getaways for food lovers
Kate Lough shares her edit of the best Greek islands that foodies should bookmark – where to stay, what to do and where to eat
As well as characterful hotels, sparkling waters for swimming and beautiful Mediterranean light, the Greek islands are a haven for food lovers with everything from traditional tavernas to modern gastronomy, farm-to-table communal feasts and a buzzing viticulture in between. From Tinos to Crete, we round up the best Greek islands to earmark for a summer trip. Best Greek island holidays for food lovers Sifnos Known as the Cycladic island of gastronomy, Sifnos is the birthplace of renowned 20th century Greek chef Nikos Tselementes, whose cookery book is still the home-cooking bible for Greeks. While on the island, you must taste two of its most traditional dishes: revithada, a slow-cooked chickpea soup with onion, garlic and bay leaves; and mastelo, lamb cooked slowly with dill and wine in one of the ceramic pots that Sifnos is synonymous with. In recent years, Sifnos has begun to draw an elegant crowd with its contemporary restaurants, notably Cantina, which perches above the water in the shadow of Kastro, the ancient capital of the island, and its new sister restaurant Pelicanos, a reimagined waterside taverna in Faros. Omega 3 is a trendy but unpretentious seafood bar: order sharing plates of taramasalata and various raw fish dishes and accompany your meal with a bottle of fresh, crisp white (ideally a malagousia). The place to stay is Versina Astra, a sexy boutique hotel just above the idyllic swimming spot of Poulati, which opens a second restaurant in the port of Kamares this June. Where to stay on Sifnos: Doubles at Verina Astra from £349 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Milos On the north-western coast of Milos you will find the charming village of Trypiti where hotelier Nausika Georgiadou has an even more charming house overlooking the curve of Klima. The former economist has spent the last eight years shaping the perfect hideaway, Skinopi Lodge, in the neighbouring village. Set within an olive grove, the fruits of which are bottled for guests, the lodge launches its kitchen table this summer. Guests staying in its seven villas will be able to pick their own herbs and vegetables for cooking classes with local grandmothers, as well as enjoy communal evening feasts cooked in a traditional Cycladic wood oven. When you are not marvelling at the Skinopi sunsets or swimming off its private deck, try and bag a table at O Hamos!, where the Psatha family only include what they grow or rear on their nearby farm— try the pork kleftiko — on the restaurant’s handwritten menu. Sarakiniko cove is known for its white rock formations and crystal blue waters. Have a swim, then head to Ohamos to sit in its shady, flower-filled garden and try local dishes like aubergine with pork or roast kid; the meats and cheeses come from the owners’ farm. For a real treat, charter Nausika’s boat Summer Wine to take you to the neighbouring island of Kimolos, and book in for a feet-in-the-sand lunch at To Kyma. Where to stay on Milos: Villas at Skinopi Lodge from £386 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Folegandros Near to Milos, the diminutive island of Folegandros was put on the map in 2024 thanks to the opening of Gundari, a five-star eco resort set in 80 acres of nature reserve on its western coast. Food takes centre stage with Michelin-starred Greek chef Lefteris Lazarou behind its dining spaces, which are powered by the hotel’s own organic farm, where guests can also enjoy farm-to-fork dinners. From Gundari, there are many hiking routes to explore, virgin beaches to discover and tavernas with spectacular views to bookmark — such as Papalagi, which is best enjoyed after a boat trip around the island. For something a little special, foodies should request a cooking class with yiayia Irene, whose homespun recipes have sustained her restaurant kitchen for more than 60 years. For dinner outside of the in resort, head to the main square on Folegandros, to Kritikos. Order matsata as an accompaniment to rabbit stew, tomato-stewed rooster or kontosouvli (pork roasted on a large spit). The house wine is good, or order a carafe of tsipouro. Where to stay on Folegandros: Standard suite at Gundari from £385 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Tinos Tinos still flies relatively under the radar but it has much to offer the more intrepid traveller. Strewn with more than 40 traditional villages, nascent vineyards and secluded beaches, the Cycladic island is also a hot tip for the more discerning food lover. Seafood pasta at Thalassaki by the water’s edge is a must, as is the lobster baked with orzo at Marathia near Agios Fostis. Stay at Xinara House, a beautifully converted old bishop’s house set beneath Exombourga Mountain, where its house manager Jenny can organise all manner of like-a-local experiences, from private tastings of O-Tionos’ Assyrtiko wines, to visits to Aggelas Rouggeri, where local kariki cheese is matured in the traditional Tinos style. Where to stay on Tinos: Xinara House, check rates and availability at xinarahouse.com or booking.com Crete Greece’s largest island, food is the language of love for Crete. Set across mountain and sea, while drenched in year-round sun and carpeted in olive groves, it is an abundant natural larder of fish, meat, vegetables — Cretan horta (wild greens) are the best — fruit, honey and, of course, the finest extra virgin olive oil. Bed down near the pretty Venetian town of Chania at the family-run Methoi Kindeli Estate, a working organic farm dating back to the 17th century which has three guesthouses to choose from. Family recipes are shared to provide inspiration for evenings spent playing chef in your kitchen, and its myriad fruits are served at breakfast and stocked in guest fridges. For something a little swankier, the iconic Blue Palace reopens this May under the Phāea brand as a boutique hotel. With food at its core, guests will be invited to harvest and cook their own ingredients in the traditional way, under the soil, before enjoying a communal feast under the night sky — alongside Cretan wines. Where to stay on Crete: Metohi Kindelis Estate guesthouses from £240 per night, check availability at metohi-kindelis.gr. Phāea Blue Palace suites from £575 per night, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Kate Lough is a freelance writer and editor. You can follow her on Instagram @‌kateloughstudio More hotel inspiration for Greek island getaways from our team Eliamos, Kefalonia Eliamos is an all-villa hotel that blends privacy with five-star hotel luxury and uninterrupted views of the Ionian Sea. Designed to feel like a home away from home, 12 secluded villas are set on the hillside, divided by lavender-lined paths to create a village atmosphere. Expect high ceilings and open beams, generous bathrooms with olive oil toiletries to use in waterfall showers and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors opening onto private terraces with saltwater pools that boast uninterrupted sea views. The on-site open-air restaurant Olais (named after the birds that visit the surrounding olive trees) forms the heart of Eliamos, with all meals enjoyed outdoors with views of the sea, Wake up early to watch the sunrise for breakfast here, where the à la carte menu includes a range of egg dishes and avocado on toast variations, along with Greek specialities such as bougatsa thessalonikis (vanilla cream and cinnamon filled pastries), fresh pita and pancakes with local honey and apricot jam. Enjoy impressive salads at lunch and Kefalonian specialities for dinner, from tomato fritters to Kreatopita (meat pie) with layers of crunchy pastry and tender ragu. Unwind with in-room spa treatments, walk down a secret path to the secluded beach cove or hop on an e-bike to explore the island. The open-air gym is great for an outdoor workout or guided Pilates class. For a hands-on experience, join a Mediterranean cookery class on the Olais restaurant patio. From £650, check rates and availability at eliamos.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Casa Cook, Rhodes Tucked into the mountain-fringed landscape near Kolymbia, Casa Cook Rhodes is an adults-only retreat that blends soulful design with a connection to nature and community. The hotel's architecture leans into simplicity – whitewashed structures, organic textures and calming pools merge beautifully with olive trees and rugged hillsides. Every room has a unique offering but the shared pool suites are particularly clever – semi-private thanks to verandas and greenery. Casa Cook takes the Greek concept of parea – a gathering of friends sharing ideas and moments – and infuses it into every aspect, from the communal tables at its Kitchen Club restaurant to the layout of its pools. Food is fresh and thoughtful, with a focus on seasonal ingredients. Breakfast is a standout: local honey, thick yogurt and freshly baked breads sit alongside international options. The Freddo, a blended iced coffee, is also not one to miss. For lunch, Olive restaurant offers a relaxed, poolside setting serving meze plates. Come evening the beach bar pulses with laid-back DJ sets, the ideal backdrop to sip on sweet local Rhodian melitio wine. Wellness is central here: morning yoga sessions, a tranquil spa and the ever-present backdrop of the mountains create an atmosphere of serene escape. For those seeking a bit more adventure, climb up to the Tsambika Monastery. Along the way you’ll brush shoulders with mountain goats pecking at olive trees until reaching a hilltop with panoramic views across the island’s landscape, where mountains roll into turquoise bays. It’s a hotel that doesn't just offer a place to stay but curates a rhythm of life – slow, social and deeply restorative. Starting room rates, including breakfast, at Casa Cook Rhodes are EUR 209 per night, depending on the booking period. Check availability at casacook.com or booking.com Amathus Residences, Cyprus Amathus Beach Hotel is a truly luxurious place to rest your head right on the Limassol waterfront. In addition to the beachfront hotel, one-, two- and three-bedroom serviced residences are available to book for longer stays, with access to the hotel’s vast facilities such as top-tier restaurants (The Grill Room and Limanaki Restaurant, plus Italian, Cantonese and Japanese-Peruvian fusion spots), a spa, tennis court, fitness centre, indoor-outdoor pool and more. Some apartments have private pools on balconies overlooking the beach, and all have impeccably stylish décor with floor-to-ceiling windows, muted tones and a marble bathroom kitted out with Molton Brown products. The breakfast buffet, served from the Kalypso Restaurant, includes live cooking stations and Cypriot specialties such as tahinopittes (sweet tahini pastries), grilled halloumi and local honey, best enjoyed on the terrace overlooking the crystalline waters on a warm day. From £1,742 based on a two-night stay for two adults. Check rates and availability at amathusresidences.com or booking.com Nido, part of the Mar-Bella Collection, Corfu If you're looking for a luxurious slice of heaven just a short drive from Corfu old town, five-star adults only hotel Nido is for you. Part of the Mar-Bella collection, Nido consists of 70 rooms, all are suites and come with their own mini pool or jacuzzi. It has two restaurants offering Greek and Mediterranean gastronomy and two bars – one of which is in the infinity pool. So you can sip a cocktail while staring out at the breath-taking panoramic views of the Ionian sea. Relaxation and indulgence are the name of the game at Nido and it's been carefully designed to be a treat for the senses. Colourful bougainvillea line the paths and the decor is exquisite – our favourite room is the Heritage bar. With huge windows, plush furnishings and a stunning marble-topped bar, it's the perfect place for pre dinner drinks. You're in good hands with their mixologists, who were thrilled to bring us everything from fresh juice to negroni spagliatio (with prosecco in it). Compared to the all inclusive sister hotel MarBella next door, which has 359 rooms and is a very family-friendly affair, Nido is peaceful and intimate. It would be a great spot for a romantic getaway. However, there are some fantastic meals to be eaten at MarBella – we enjoyed plate after plate of fantastic fresh fish and seafood at the Deck beach bar and grill while sipping local Greek wines. The good news is they offer a dine around experience, to experience the restaurants at MarBella all you need to do is hitch a ride in one of the private golf carts. A highlight of our stay was lunch in the rustic, family-owned Akrogiali taverna, located next to the hotel beach. It was here we had the best taramasalata we've ever had the pleasure of eating with warm, fluffy pitta, scattered with oregano and salt – a thoughtful touch which really set this taverna lunch apart. As well as Greek salad drenched in extra virgin olive oil, made with salty Corfu olives and tomatoes which tasted of sunshine. Sat in a shady spot, next to the lapping waves, it really is paradise. There are lots more classic dishes to try too, like calamari, baked butter beans and stuffed tomatoes. Another one for your itinerary is the walking food tour of Corfu town, organised by the hotel. Starting in Durrell park, under the low branches of olive and magnolia trees, you'll learn about architecture, history, Corfu traditions and, of course, food! Stopping at the best local spots, we tried delicious cured meats, cheeses and – our favourite – sweet and savoury pastries from a tiny bakery. We couldn't stop smiling as we wolfed down feta and spinach pie, nutty halwa bites and slices of custard tart. All washed down with the ginger beer that's a Corfu must-try. Anyone who appreciates good ingredients will love stopping at the spice shop, an Aladdin's cave that hits you with an unbelievable fragrance before you're even through the door. For those with a sweet tooth, there's the artisan kumquat shop. From the traditional candied fruits which have a deep floral honey-like flavour, to the selection of boozy beverages, there's something for everyone. Make sure you get a freshly made canned cocktail to sip on while you walk. Heads up for booking: Greek Orthodox Easter is in April and Corfu town gets exceptionally busy, as the church plays a central role in the procession and ceremonies. Rates at Nido start at €196 for bed and breakfast, they also offer half board. At MarBella, rooms start at €272 with premium all inclusive. Hotel Archontiko Angelou, Leros Though Marianna doesn’t offer dinner at this sympathetically renovated old mansion, her al fresco breakfasts are worth a visit alone. She uses a glut of local ingredients (many grown in the hotel’s garden, where breakfast is taken), including freshly squeezed juices, yogurt, honey, home-baked bread, fresh cheeses, jams and a legendary lemon curd. There are also vegan, dairy- and gluten-free options, such as chia puddings and cashew cheese. If you want to explore Leros, Marianna will pack a picnic for you. If not, press her for recommendations, from the island’s best beaches and tavernas to boat trips for lazy days spent snoozing and swimming to remote white pebble beaches. Doubles from £121 per night, check availability at hotel-angelou-leros.com or booking.com Kivotos and Mavro, Santorini Perched high on Santorini's cliffs, Kivotos Hotel's unique architecture mirrors the island's volcanic aesthetic, creating a dramatic and sleek effect for a luxury break. Located in the tranquil area of Imerovigli on the island’s coastal west side, the hotel’s unobstructed views of the crescent-shaped caldera are among the best on the island. The perfect spot to soak in these scenes is at Kivotos’ upscale dining establishment, Mavro. Now under the expert guidance of Chef Dimitris Katrivesis, Mavro blends local ingredients and traditional recipes with modern flavour combinations. Drawing from Katrivesis’ global travels, the signature cooking technique is Japanese robata (open fire cooking) while the Greek shared dining style, ‘moirasma’, is heartily embraced. These sharable tasting menus, themed around the phases of the moon, feature locally sourced ingredients and superbly fresh seafood that is delivered daily by local fishermen. The whole effect is bold, decadent, and unforgettable with a bucket list Santorini-sunset as your backdrop. Doubles from £448 per night, check availability at booking.com and expedia.co.uk Rosy’s Little Village, Agistri A cluster of whitewashed buildings splashed with bright bursts of bougainvillea, hibiscus and geraniums, Rosy’s perches above a small rocky cove (grab a kayak to explore sea caves nearby). A family-run hotel serving simple but excellent food, the extensive menu at its terrace restaurant includes marinated anchovies, zucchini pie, rosemary lamb and glasses of local retsina, a salty-sweet wine made using pine tree sap. Best of all, freshly caught fish (sold by weight) includes sardines, red mullet and swordfish, all of which is simply grilled and served with organic vegetables grown on-site. Eat looking out across the Saronic Gulf towards the neighbouring island of Aegina. Doubles from £82 per night, check availability at rosyslittlevillage.com The Good Life, Syros The villas and studios at this aptly named organic retreat each come with kitchens (help yourself to plums, peaches, figs and lemons from the farm to pep up your holiday breakfasts). Guests at The Good Life congregate around a large outdoor kitchen in the evenings to cook and share stories, and once a week they’re invited to join a (complimentary) communal dinner – think barbecued beef fillet with a range of pitta breads and salads – accompanied by generous amounts of Greek wine. Grapes in the vineyards are also used to distill juice for tsipouro (similar to Italian grappa), and guests are given a small bottle to take home with them. Double villa from £182, check availability at booking.com Kamarotí, Sifnos Sensitively built within an ancient olive grove (not a single tree was cut down during construction), with views over the pretty village of Kastro and the Aegean Sea beyond, Kamarotí puts a surprisingly Spanish twist on its food (the hotel is owned by three Spanish brothers). Breakfast varies greatly: you might have Spanish omelette one day, and diced home-grown tomatoes with fresh local mizithra cheese and crushed melon seed juice the next. Dinner, served only in July and August, starts with a selection of tapas, and paella is on the menu once a week. Doubles from £110, check availability at kamaroti.com Villa de Loulia, Corfu Named after owner Loukia’s grandmother, Loulia, who built this historic Italianate villa in 1808, Villa de Loulia houses nine elegant, colourful bedrooms and suites, plus a restaurant that serves old family recipes made from local, organic produce. Start the day by the pool with Loukia’s homemade zucchini pie or ravani orange and almond semolina cake, then explore the ancient village of Peroulades and its uncrowded beaches before heading back to Villa de Loulia for classic Corfiot dishes (including bourdeto: fish cooked in spicy tomato sauce). Doubles from £108 a night, check availability at villadeloulia.gr Milia Mountain Retreat, Crete Set amid chestnut trees with the rugged mountainous beauty of the Kissamos region as a backdrop, Milia is a beautifully renovated collection of 15th-century stone buildings. All rooms have thick stone walls and their own fireplaces, making it perfect for cosy off-season stays, and the retreat is surrounded by an extensive network of hiking trails. The restaurant serves traditional Cretan “humble gastronomy”, such as wild greens soup and grilled aubergine spread, as well as roast baby goat, lamb with herbs, and bureki courgette pot pie cooked in a wood stove. Every Wednesday, guests can join a four-hour traditional Cretan cooking session in the kitchen. Doubles from £75, check availability at milia.gr Levendis Estate, Ithaca Aussie-Greek couple Marilyn and Spero Raftopulos – plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko – run this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool on Spero’s family homestead. It overlooks a bay in the north of the island and has been going for more than 30 years. Bathrooms come generously stocked with Levendis’ own natural skincare products, while cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner. Plus peach juice, bread, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast. Click here for more places to eat and drink in Ithaca. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Mèlisses, Andros A stylish, four-suite guesthouse, Mèlisses is a favourite with foodies thanks to its culinary host, Allegra Pomilio, an Italian with a passion for all things Greek. Every season she hosts a selection of retreats and workshops together with guest chefs and other creatives. Sign up and, in between learning how to cook tahini chocolate cookies, you might join an excursion to nearby waterfalls or to Palaiopoli, the ancient, partly-submerged former capital of the island. Suites have kitchens and sea views and are so dreamily decorated in shades of greys and blues that you’ll want to move right in. Guests gather in the open-plan kitchen for breakfast before heading down to the private bay, glass of homemade sour cherry lemonade in hand, for a morning dip. Check rates and availability at melisses-andros.com Ktima Lemonies, Andros As the name suggests, the Ktima Lemonies estate on lush Andros is surrounded by lemon (and olive) groves. Start the day with syrup made from lemon tree flower petals (which owner Nelly carefully collects at dawn to avoid bees and to keep them fresh), served on bread or simply from the jar. Only breakfast is available, but making your own picnic lunch from the breakfast buffet is encouraged rather than frowned upon here, and you can enjoy a glass of the estate’s own wines or limoncello in the evening before heading out to one of the island’s many restaurants. Check rates and availability at ktimalemonies.gr More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
The UK hotel baths worth travelling for this autumn
From tubs under the stars to full spas in a hotel bathroom, these are the perfect relaxing escapes
As the clocks change and evenings draw in, the shift from autumn to winter pulls us two ways: our bodies crave hibernation while daily life demands we keep going. Now more than ever, we need ways to wind down, as nearly one in three of us report lower mood and heightened stress as the days shorten. The antidote? Surprisingly simple: a bath. But, for many of us, a freestanding tub remains a fantasy constrained by the realities of our home bathrooms. The promise of a proper bath is often top of the list when booking a weekend away. You're not alone if a bath is high on your accommodation must-haves: more than 60% of travellers now prioritise wellness amenities when booking, and hotel bathrooms are being transformed from functional spaces into full-blown sanctuaries. Think: gleaming copper tubs, Japanese onsen-inspired soaks or outdoor cast-iron baths where you can bathe under the stars. The ritual of a proper soak does fantastic work. It regulates circadian rhythms, lowers cortisol and triggers the release of serotonin and endorphins. Plus, it’s the kind of easy luxury many of us are really after in a hotel stay: not posh pillow menus or champagne on arrival, but space to properly relax. The evenings are drawing in and the temperature's dropping, so next time you're booking a trip, seek out a room where the bath is the main event. Here are our favourites. Copper baths There's something extra-special about copper. These burnished baths develop their own character, acquiring a unique patina over time. Copper also conducts heat beautifully, meaning it will keep your water warmer for longer. It's been synonymous with luxurious bathing since Victorian times, when gleaming tubs were polished to a mirror shine. Where to go: the huts and lakeside suites at Another Place in the Lake District have gleaming copper baths positioned as bedroom centrepieces, so you can soak (ideally after a hike) while watching the fells reflected in Ullswater. For a soak by the sea, Artist Residence properties in both Brighton and Penzance tuck copper baths into light-flooded window spots where the metal catches the seaside sun. You'll also find beautiful examples throughout The Pig's collection of country house hotels, each one ideally placed for post-walk muscle recovery, but the copper tub at its Combe Manor is really special. Tucked into its own curved alcove with a rainfall shower overhead, it's burnished to a warm glow that creates such a sense of sanctuary, you'll want to cancel dinner plans and stay put all evening. Traditional roll-top baths The classic Victorian roll-top never goes out of style. There's a reason these freestanding beauties have endured: claw feet planted firmly on tiled floors, generous depth and a satisfying curve that supports your back as you relax. They're the baths of our collective imagination when we think 'luxury'. Where to go: the Lido Townhouse in Bristol has a lovely classic bath, shrunk to an adorable short roll-top design that's perfect for a proper shoulders-under submersion. One is even placed in the centre of the bedroom for that special sense of theatre. Edinburgh's The Witchery features them throughout its gothic hotel, often surrounded by lavishly painted panelling and mirrors for maximum impact. Retro baths Is it modern or retro? The best contemporary bath designs blur the line entirely, reimagining classic silhouettes in unexpected colours that feel both very now and nostalgically 1970s. Think: avocado green, dusty pink or slate grey – all shades that would have been perfectly at home in a decade obsessed with earthy tones and sunken conversation pits, but rendered in sleek contemporary forms that feel fresh. Where to go: Restaries, a chic retreat on a 16th-century Suffolk farm, features the cult-favourite BC Designs 'Senator Tub'. This sculptural beauty has a chunky lip and distinctive bun feet that's become an Instagram phenomenon. The Pig in the South Downs fully commits to the retro revival with an avocado green tub from Aston Matthews that manages to feel both playful and sophisticated against its country house backdrop, while Glebe House in Devon opts for candy colours in pink and yellow, proving that great interiors don’t have to be white and minimal. Japanese onsen baths The Japanese understand bathing as ritual, not routine. These honour that tradition with spaces deep enough to submerge to your shoulders so you can have a contemplative bathing session rather than a quick dip. Where to go: Fforest in Wales has crafted onsen-style baths from a repurposed cow's trough that somehow feels both rustic and refined. The concrete cast conducts heat beautifully, so you can stay as long as you like while nature moves around you. In Norfolk, Spink's Nest has an indoor sunken tub that feels meditative and calming, positioned to embrace Japanese principles of bathing – deep and dark to encourage you to slow down completely. Baths with a view Why hide the tub in a separate room when the landscape outside deserves equal attention? These are baths positioned for maximum impact, where the vista becomes part of the bathing ritual. Part of the joy of a long soak is the enforced pause, a rare stretch of time without screens. With time to think, it's good to have a stunning view to contemplate. Where to go: Another Place The Lakes suspends a tin tub in a glass-walled treehouse, offering canopy-level views over woodland. The Beacon, an Arts & Crafts-era country house outside Tunbridge Wells, has a copper bath hidden in a Princess turret (velvet curtains included) with breathtaking views across the Kent valley. Can’t decide between indoors or out? At The Hideout Treehouse in Devon, the choice is yours. It's home to the UK's first moving bath, so wherever you're positioned, you get a great treetop view – and there's even a rainfall shower outside. Outdoor baths For the truly committed, outdoor bathing offers something special: the contrast of hot water against cool air, steam rising into the night and the rare sense of freedom that comes from being exposed to the elements. Canopy & Stars reports that 'outdoor baths' is consistently in the top five features searched on its site, and it's for good reason – there's nothing quite like soaking under the stars while autumn mist settles over the landscape. Where to go: Southcombe Piggery, a lovingly restored piggery among the wildflowers and woods of Dartmoor National Park, has two outdoor baths for star-filled views across the valley during an evening under the stars. Oh, and there's a hillside sauna, too. Elmley Nature Reserve on the Isle of Sheppey places outdoor baths where you can watch marsh harriers hunt at dusk. Its beautiful shepherd's huts are surrounded by wildflower meadows, and are the perfect spot for birdwatching as the sun sets. Couple baths Some experiences improve with company. These baths accommodate two comfortably, turning bathing into a shared ritual. Where to go: No. 15 in Bath – naturally – excels in the bath department, positioning them beneath Georgian windows in rooms where Jane Austen herself might have felt at home. Its 55sqm Hideout feels less like a hotel room and more like an apartment with its own spa. The star of the show is its huge hot tub that's big enough for two. If you don't fancy sharing, check into the Oak Suite at Foxhill Manor for two twin window-facing slipper tubs with just enough space for a champagne bucket in between – a classy touch, if you ask us. More hotel guides Best country house hotels in the UK Best health and wellness retreats Best hotels in London Best UK boutique hotels Best hotels in the Cotswolds Best Cornwall hotels Best hotels in the Lake District Best London hotel bars to visit Best romantic hotels in the UK European hidden gems: hotels off the beaten track Best Paris hotels Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best restaurants with rooms in the UK Best Amsterdam hotels Black Friday hotel deals
10 foodie nature spots in the UK for spotting autumn leaves
Embrace the joys of autumn with these top foodie destinations, from golden foliage in the Cairngorms to the russet beauty of the Cotswolds
As the leaves turn golden and begin to tumble, there’s no better time to explore the UK’s enchanting nature spots than in autumn. We've found the finest spots that offer unrivalled views of the season's fiery foliage, including a treehouse with panoramic woodland views, a micro-bakery within lush gardens, and a snug Scottish cabin tucked into the hills. These are all prime spots for food lovers, too – from rustic gin distilleries and cider orchards to forest cafés and country pubs – all offering the perfect blend of leaf-peeping and seasonal fare. Which of these nature spots will make it onto your travel wish list? Once you've decided on your destination, embrace the season with coffee expert Celeste Wong's autumn coffee serves, including a clever British twist on the pumpkin spice latte, or make the most of autumn by booking a cosy cabin stay. Inshriach, Cairngorms, Scotland Log cabin within Cairngorms National Park Seek sanctuary during cosy season in this expertly crafted wooden cabin hidden away on the hillside above the River Spey. Owner Walter Micklethwait and his family built the log cabin during lockdown, which now proves as popular for holidays as it is with TV and photoshoots. Surrounded by mature woodland and the vast Cairngorms, this 200-acre mini Highland estate is ablaze with fiery colour by the time autumn rolls around, with picture-perfect views. It also happens to be home to a rustic gin distillery, where Walter concocts small-batch Speyside gins in an award-winning shed. Alternatively, if relaxation is top of your list, hop into the wood-fired sauna and steam away the stress. Besides the cabin, the estate’s elegant country house is perfect for a large family gathering (sleeping up to 18, with or without a chef) but, for a back-to-nature experience, there’s the cluster of quirky glamping options peppered throughout the tangled woodland. The quaint Swedish-style shepherd’s hut is old-school romantic with surrounding juniper bushes (the key ingredient in gin; most of the botanicals are foraged from the estate). Or, for those who want something a little more contemporary, there’s the bothy, a little modernist cabin nestled in the birch woods above the Spey. inshriachhouse.com Queen's Wood Café, Highgate Wood, London Charming woodland café in north London Londoners looking for a slice of autumn tranquility within commuting distance are in luck thanks to this enchanting café in north London's Highgate. Set amid ancient woodlands, the space was originally built in 1898 as a wood keeper's lodge and tearoom. It now functions as a friendly chalet-style café with a community garden and therapy cabin. You'll find organic and veggie-focused dishes on the menu (think burrata salad and homemade quiche) and pastries are baked fresh daily (cherry Danish, cinnamon swirl). Art exhibitions regularly adorn the walls, making a pretty backdrop to while away the hours. We recommend ordering an autumnal coffee and slice of carrot cake, then sitting out on the terrace illuminated in lights, taking in the woodland views. It's a dog-friendly space, too, perfect for walkers hoping for a coffee pit stop or spot of lunch. queenswoodcafe.org The Cordia Collective at Borde Hill, West Sussex Micro-bakery within historic Sussex gardens Find this new culinary venture from Green Michelin-starred chef Chantelle Nicholson nestled within the idyllic gardens of this Grade II-listed, 2,300-acre estate in West Sussex. The collective started life as a micro-bakery in spring this year, and there are plans to develop into a glasshouse restaurant, café and wine bar, and workshop space in the former stables. Headed up by acclaimed baker Janine Edwards from London’s much-loved Toklas Bakery, highlights include warm, freshly baked curlicues, (aka their own take on a much-loved cinnamon bun), vibrant focaccia sandwiches and Ploughman's plates, with some ingredients harvested straight from the garden itself. After securing your goodies, take a peaceful stroll among the vibrant foliage which, in autumn, deepens into warmer, richer tones – look out for the amber-blazing maple tree which glows against the light. It's an impressive place to take a moment to pause while enjoying the flavours of the season. Elsewhere at Borde Hill, you can sign up to autumn foraging walks, plus Halloween trails and activities for families. bordehill.co.uk Bettys Harlow Carr Tea Room, Harrogate Charming teahouse overlooking lush gardens This little tea house in Harlow Carr gardens supplies all the treats and tipples required for a cosy autumnal day out. Find this North Yorkshire gem overlooking the handsome grounds of RHS Garden Harlow Carr, where autumn is celebrated with stunning displays of fiery red and golden leaves. The beauty of the surroundings is matched by all the traditional Bettys treats, including tempting breads, handmade cakes and hot chocolates, while you admire the panoramic view from your table. Take a walk through the gardens to the kiosk in the centre, order a hot chocolate and mooch through the vibrant trees, plants and greenhouses full of autumn produce. A wholesome place to soothe yourself out of a seasonal funk, foodies will love filling their totes with freshly made cakes, biscuits, fancies and other specialities in the Bettys shop – perfect for gifting or enjoying when you get home. bettys.co.uk The Newt, Somerset Cider tasting and woodland walks in the west country This country estate is famed for its cider orchards, woodland walks and immaculate gardens, all of which turn gorgeous shades of amber and crimson in autumn. Located between Bruton and the town of Castle Cary, this Palladian mansion-turned hotel is ideal for a seasonal garden retreat. On site, there’s a butcher’s, bakery, cider cellar, artisanal shop and three restaurants, all serving seasonal dishes – many of which feature ingredients grown or made on the estate (even the sourdough starter is made from apple pulp from the cider press). After taking an autumnal stroll, visit the cider cellar for a guided tour and tasting (The Newt’s own ciders are made with 100% apple juice and slow, cold fermentation, and are made to be served and enjoyed like wine). Sample the estate’s produce at the open-air cider bar located next to the shiny state-of-the-art cider-making facility (where you can also catch the daily apple-pressing 'show'). But it's not all cider-making and woodland walks. It's also a place to learn, with harvest-themed activities ranging from wreath-making to mushroom foraging. Then, there's Apple Day Weekend, one of the most hotly anticipated events on the estate calendar. Think a two-day celebration of Somerset heritage and all things ‘apple’, including apple games, orchard tractor tours, apple-themed menus, tastings, live music, BBQs and plenty of cider. You could also relax by pottering in the greenhouse or swimming in the spa. The choice is yours. thenewtinsomerset.com The Potting Shed, Crudwell, The Costwolds Village pub featuring a two-acre garden and apple trees Autumn's golden hues only add to the rustic charm of The Cotswolds, a prime spot for a seasonal strolling. Originally a Victorian pub called The Plough, The Potting Shed is located in the chocolate box village of Crudwell, a short drive from the M4. With its two-acre garden and apple trees, its the epitome of a country local and a suiting pit stop during your autumn foodie break. Once a favoured romantic bolthole for Prince William and Kate Middleton before their engagement, this cosy country pub sticks to hearty gastropub classics, with much of the produce coming from the abundant vegetable patch in the pub’s two-acre garden, which also has apple trees and lawns. Try a Cotswolds dry gin, or taste local ales such as Elmers pale bitter from Flying Monk Brewery in neighbouring Malmesbury. The pie of the day (ham with a poached egg on top, or chicken, sweetcorn and black pudding) is a must, served, as it should be, with creamy mash and rich gravy. There’s an outdoor patio and garden from which you can peek into the neighbouring allotments or challenge your friends to a game of boules on the pitch out back. Or simply gaze out over the foliage as you settle in with a pint. thepottingshedpub.com Clissold Park, Stoke Newington, London Peaceful north London park with roaming deer When the leaves are at their most golden, this serene Hackney park comes into its own. It offers the best of both worlds for time-poor Londoners: easy to travel to and large enough to escape urban life. The park is a true feast for the senses come autumn. Watch the resident deer rove around the enclosure while the leaves turn russet and gold, then listen to the leaves crunch beneath your feet as you stroll along the grassy verges flanking the New River. Combine your autumn walk with a trip to park café Fink’s Pump House, which opens every day and serves straightforward fare while utilising local suppliers. Go for the coffee from Scenery Coffee Roasters and stay for the sourdough sarnies and pastries coming fresh daily from Fink's Bakery in N4, such as their rosette apple, vanilla custard and pecan crumble danish. Foodies can also fill their totes on Fink's thoughtful selection of gourmet goods, from tinned fish and truffle crisps to wines and spirits. Wearied Londoners should consider a visit to this leafy sanctuary to contemplate and appreciate autumn's fleeting, enchanting beauty. Tu Hwnt I'r Bont Tearooms, North Wales 15th Century luxury tearoom with an idyllic riverside location Located in the small town of Llanrwst in North Wales, this charming grade II listed tearoom is often one of the most photographed places in the area. Though surrounded by beautiful gardens and views of the Conwy Valley, it's the building itself that encapsulates autumnal splendour – a breathtaking mosaic of rich, warm and earthy leaves which envelop the entire building. It's so stunning, you'll want it on a postcard. Inside, you'll find a charming tearoom serving artisan cakes and specialty teas alongside classic lunchtime specials. Choose opulence with a traditional high-tea, or sample its award-winning ice cream (from its very own Parisella's Ice Cream of Conwy). Painting the peaceful Welsh landscape with the most vivid autumnal hues, this modest tearoom is a top-of-the-list destination for a crisp autumn day out. tuhwntirbont.co.uk Stars & Vines, Herefordshire Vineyard cabins with sweeping views of rolling Herefordshire countryside For views of the rolling Herefordshire countryside, this vineyard, with its two beautifully appointed cabins, is uniquely placed. Take in the views while soaking in the outdoor hot tub, or strike out into 1,000 acres of the surrounding farmland where the River Lugg weaves through towering woods, and you might happen upon a small lake by one of the cornfields. The elegantly furnished modern cabins are situated at one of the highest points of the Broadfield Court Vineyard Estate, which produces a small-batch range of whites and rosé – a stay here wouldn’t be complete without a hosted wine-tasting (£95) with Alexandra James, who co-owns the estate with her husband Mark. The cabins are self-catered, but you can request a hamper for a continental or cooked breakfast, again stocked with fresh, local produce. On a clear evening, you can ask for a telescope and kick back by the firepit – with marshmallows and other gourmet treats supplied – to marvel at the stars. starsandvinesluxurylodges.co.uk Wild Escapes, Hampshire Luxury treehouses overlooking Hampshire vineyards Nestled in the forest on sprawling Fullerton Farm, this luxuriously wild autumn getaway offers four modern treehouses. The structures, crafted out of local materials, were designed to minimise impact on the surrounding ecosystem, and rewilding is encouraged, so birds, deer and badgers are abundant. Nestled into a wild woodland overlooking the vines of the Black Chalk vineyard, it's a soothing place to linger, sip and soak. Though each treehouse is unique – The Perigord is Scandi-chic, The Damselfly modern-minimalist, The Fallow decked out in earthy tones and The Poppy the most rustic, complete with its own firepit. All have a few things in common: vineyard vistas, wood-burning stoves, snazzy glass showers and terraces with bathtubs that come with sycamore wood champagne flute rests for the complimentary Black Chalk English sparkling wine. Take a private tour of neighbouring Black Chalk vineyard followed by a Treehouse Tasting, with a view of the vines where the grapes were grown. In the morning, enjoy a breakfast hamper curated from Hampshire producers, including small-batch Moon Roast coffee, Nicky’s Kitchen sourdough, and Fluffetts Farm free-range eggs. The surrounding woodland is perfect for autumnal walks, and local street food pop-ups and country pubs with riverside terraces offer plenty of feasting opportunities. wildescapes.com
Northern Thai food: how to cook like a local
Northern Thai cuisine is a masterclass in bringing communities together around the table, with dishes infused with the vibrant, aromatic flavours of the landscape
Want to learn about Northern Thai food? Looking for Thai recipes? Read Chariya Khatitiyot's guide, then check out the guide to Basque cuisine and North Mexican food. Recipes extracted from Lanna by Chariya Khatitiyot (£22, Ryland Peters & Small). Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. Northern Thai cuisine It’s no surprise that Northern Thailand’s cuisine is as layered and vibrant as the region itself – a misty, mountainous landscape bordering Burma and Laos, shaped by forested hills, cool air and centuries of Lanna tradition. Here food is built around earthy, herbal and fermented flavours. Meals begin with warm sticky rice, the region’s staple, rolled by hand and dipped into bold chilli relishes. One of the most beloved is nam prik ong, a fragrant pork and tomato relish, served with crisp vegetables and crunchy pork crackling – a contrast of textures that defines the northern table. Curry here is slower, deeper. Gaeng hung lay is a rich pork belly stew spiced with tamarind, ginger and garlic – mellow, warming and influenced by Burmese cooking. Grilled meat plays a big role too. Northern-style pork barbecue, marinated in herbs and grilled over charcoal, is eaten with sticky rice, green papaya and dipping sauce. The colours are earthy – turmeric golds, banana leaf greens and chilli reds. Ingredients like lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves and fermented soybeans appear in everything from soups to sausages. Eating in Northern Thailand is communal. In villages, meals are served on low circular trays called khantoke, with dishes placed in the middle for everyone to share. Food is often cooked over wood or charcoal fires, and the air is filled with the scent of herbs, smoke and spice. The cuisine is humble yet refined, shaped by nature, memory and instinct – a living tradition that brings people together, whether in a street market, a temple fair or a quiet family home. Northern Thai recipes Thai pumpkin curry (gaeng fak thong) This always takes me back to the days when we had pumpkin plants growing in the backyard. The leaves were so big, I remember thinking they were larger than my head. The pumpkins were green on the outside but bright orange on the inside. Now, living away from home, I tweak the recipe to use butternut squash, which is easier to find but still tastes just as good. My mum told me this was my grandma’s favourite dish. I was too young to remember her since she passed away when I was little but every time I cook it I imagine sharing it with her, hoping she would have loved it as much as I do. Larb muang (Thai chopped pork salad) This was the dish my family loved to cook every Sunday, our special gathering day. It reminds me of how families here come together for Sunday lunch. We’d prepare this dish, serving half of it raw for the adults and the other half cooked for the children. I always stuck with the cooked version, I never dared to try the raw one. After lunch the whole family would gather around our small TV watching boxing matches. It wasn’t just about the food, it was about spending time with family and sharing simple joys. Crying tiger beef salad (yum nua seua rong hai) Crying tiger beef salad is a dish as intriguing as its name. It is beloved for celebrations and special occasions, partly because steak is considered a luxury in Thailand, making it a rare and meaningful treat. The tender grilled beef paired with bold, spicy and tangy flavours turns every bite into something extraordinary. Its rarity makes it even more special and it’s a dish everyone loves to share when marking life’s big moments.
Plan a relaxing holiday with these boltholes for food lovers, from a riverside retreat to a rural gin-themed getaway and a cosy stay in an idyllic shepherd's hut
Looking for boutique hotels to visit? Discover our boltholes for food lovers below, then check out our favourite UK city breaks, UK gastro pubs with rooms and the best restaurants with rooms in the UK. For further afield, check out our best European hidden gem hotels. If you're looking for a romantic getaway, discover the most romantic UK hotels, UK spa hotels for food lovers and the best hotel baths worth travelling for in the UK. Or, swap the hotels and discover the best unique UK holiday cottages for foodies. Best UK boutique hotels Middleton Lodge, North Yorkshire This Georgian estate tucked away in 200 acres of peaceful North Yorkshire countryside is a destination for serious food lovers and wellness seekers. The jewel in the crown of the estate is Forge, a restaurant that recently earned its first Michelin star, thanks to head chef Jake Jones’s nature-led, hyper-seasonal tasting menus. Dishes highlight foraged ingredients and estate-grown produce, with inventive flavour combinations – dry-aged Nidderdale hogget with summer’s last mint and north coast cod with York asparagus, preserved lemon and English sparkling wine. A standout cheese course of Cashel Blue with pickled walnut, medlar and birch syrup precedes intricate desserts like forced rhubarb tart with custard and toasted milk. Drinks are equally thoughtful, with pairings ranging from a lemon thyme saison by Salt Brewery to a bright ortega from Kent and a rich reserva tinto from Alentejo, Portugal. Coach House offers a more relaxed approach for breakfast, all-day dining and cocktails inside and on the covered terrace, while Forest Spa, next to Forge, has its own light and nourishing spa menu, ideal for pre or post-treatment grazing. Rooms are spread across the estate – from the charming Tack Room with woodburning stove, huge freestanding bath and beamed ceilings, to contemporary suites with outdoor copper tubs and views of wildflower meadows. Interiors mix natural textures with understated luxury: Burlington showers, stone walls, linen drapes, oak floors and velvet armchairs. Outside, the Tom Stuart-Smith designed walled garden is both colourful and serene, adjacent to the working kitchen garden. Rooms from £235 per night, check availability at middletonlodge.co.uk The Beacon, Tunbridge Wells Just an hour from London and 10 minutes outside Tunbridge Wells, The Beacon is a secluded bolthole, offering a pretty wedding venue alongside its restaurant with rooms. There are six elegant rooms to choose from in the main house of the hotel (choose Yarrow for a round copper bathtub in a turret with views of the countryside). Our top pick is the seventh room that nestles below the main house, the Summer House, pictured below. A long, covered balcony offers 180-degree views of the countryside, with a two-way outdoor fireplace and large outdoor bathtub to enjoy. The thoughtful room design includes a king-sized bed, kitchenette, waterfall shower, Noble Isle toiletries and bifold doors to let the outside in and maximise those valley views. The radio, set to Classic FM as you walk in, sets the calming vibe. It's a secluded spot that would be idyllic all year round, offering a cosy hideaway in winter or peaceful sun trap in summer. Warm muffins and homemade cordial greet you on arrival, or head up to the Garden Bar for cocktails with a view. The Beacon Restaurant serves locally sourced, seasonal dishes in the heart of the main country house. There are special cocktails and a generous wine list featuring plenty of English options, such as Rathfinny sparkling wine. The amuse-bouche are particularly memorable, taking a nod from the restaurant's Tea Garden Lane address with savoury twists on classic afternoon tea dishes. Choose two or three courses, or go for the 'Feed Me' tasting menu to try a little bit of everything. In the morning, enjoy breakfast al fresco on the terrace – opt for a full English or a bacon and egg bap. Footpaths at the top of the driveway offer walks through the forest, or all the way to the Pantiles and Tunbridge Wells. Rooms start at £123 per night; check availability at thebeacon.co.uk or mrandmrssmith.com Fowlescombe Farm, Devon Tucked in the foothills of Dartmoor, Fowlescombe Farm is a quietly luxurious rural retreat where regenerative organic farming and contemporary comfort meet with a fork-to-table food ethos. Dating back to 1537, the estate’s original Victorian farmhouse and timeworn stone barns have been thoughtfully restored by director Caitlin Owens and her team. The result is an intimate and relaxed atmosphere, with just 10 suites spread across four distinct buildings. Service is familial – expect to be welcomed as a friend, perhaps even by Basil, the head gardener’s gentle labrador. Daily menus are shaped by the land and seasons. The Refectory’s kitchen table seats 10 with a view of the chef at work. Expect dishes such as silky courgette and apple velouté, sirloin of shorthorn beef with tomato confit and a flavour-packed strawberry parfait with elderflower. Garden-to-glass gin and cocktail pairings add to the sense of place here. A weekly calendar of activities can be dipped into, with bespoke experiences on request. Guided yoga in the garden and sea swimming with a post-dip croissant and flask of tea left us grounded. Cookery courses, guided farm tours and animal feeding deepen the connection to land and food. You’ll want for nothing while at the farm but, if you’re out and about, don’t miss a pint of prawns at The Winking Prawn in Salcombe’s North Sands or a boat to The Millbrook Inn, reached by tidal causeway. The Meadow Suite is a standout room, offering uninterrupted views over wildflower fields and woodland from its private living room and vast bathroom. Graze on the elegant buffet of granola parfaits, pastries, smoked salmon and charcuterie before ordering a Full Fowlescombe: hash browns, sausages, black pudding, homemade smoky beans and eggs to your liking, alongside green juice of the day and excellent coffee. Rooms from £375 per night, check availability at fowlescombe.com or mrandmrsssmith.com The Maltings, Weybourne, North Norfolk The focal point of this recently renovated hotel is The Grain Store, an impressive two- storey structure with lively open kitchen where chefs work their magic with local produce. Norfolk platters, for two or more to share, celebrate both the nearby coast and land, with trend-aware touches like saffron cockles and coal-roasted flatbread; rib of 50-day salt chamber aged beef; and rack of slow-roasted pork with harissa roasted carrots. Breakfast is equally loyal to the region, proudly offering kippers smoked at Cley; Brancaster Staithe smoked salmon eggs royale; cheese and Norfolk charcuterie, and the option to carve your own ham. Design moves between classic in the bar with its studded leather chairs and wall sconce lighting to cosy in the games room with leaping deer Knight’s Tale wallpaper, to The Grain Store’s pared back bare walls with exposed beams, wildflower table arrangements and modern art. Bedrooms, in the main house and stable blocks, are simply decorated with botanic prints, vintage books and textured headboards adding interest. The on-site Bottle Shop is a welcome touch, offering a good selection of wine to enjoy in your room, over dinner for a small corkage or to take home. Doubles from £200, check availability at booking.com or themaltingsweybourne.com/ No 42 Guesthouse, Margate Margate’s recent reinvention has seen it become a popular destination for food lovers, with the opening of several independent restaurants such as Angela’s, Sète and Sargasso. Now this seaside hotel, part of the small Guesthouse group, also in Bath, York and Brighton, provides another reason to visit the Kent coastal resort – its Pearly Cow restaurant and rooftop terrace providing magnificent views across the channel. Pearly Cow focusses on seafood platters, fish and grills. Whitstable oysters and salt cod tacos make a good sharing starter, salt-aged steaks are prepared in the open kitchen, with whipped bone marrow butter and beef fat chips – this is the kind of easy food, prepared simply, you want to enjoy on the coast. The reasonable wine list includes a decent house cava. Breakfast is similarly classic, with local Brogdale sausages in the full English, alongside a decent eggs royale and organic porridge with honey and pistachio. Make use of the communal pantry for early morning tea, coffee and pastries, or late-night snacks – huge jars of traditional sweet shop treats like lemon sherbets and chocolate bars. Bedrooms are light and sunny, with neutral colours and fabrics, made contemporary with touches such as a record player and choice of vinyl, modern prints and beach-hut-shaped tea and coffee station. Bramley toiletries and power showers are very welcome after a day on the beach. In the lounge bar, Dreamland’s ferris wheel is referenced in its wall decorations, with raffia lightshades and touches of aqua adding beach house vibes. B&B from £170 per night. Check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Rectory, Cotswolds This honey-stone Georgian property sits on the border of the Cotswolds and makes the perfect spot for a weekend break. With 18 bedrooms, the rectory is small and perfectly appointed, with striking contemporary interiors touches that elevate the building’s original features and give a cool edge to its Cotswold charm. The outdoor pool is just a short walk across the beautifully kept garden, where guests can enjoy the extensive cocktail menu, and the sister pub is just a short walk over the green. The menu is filled with seasonal and local ingredients, with plenty of choice for those not eating meat. Hero ingredients are handled delicately to deliver elegant plates with real flair. We visited in early summer and enjoyed turbot terrine with tarragon mayonnaise and a lobster and scallop raviolo to start. Mains of nettle cappellacci with walnut sauce and Tamworth pork loin with bagna cauda were beautifully executed but almost eclipsed by an incredibly moreish side of courgettes with olives and marjoram. Breakfast is a generous affair, served in the orangery where a large table is laden with everything you’d expect from pastries to poached fruit. A menu of cooked plates includes favourites like the classic breakfast and Omelette Arnold Bennett as well as house specials like buttermilk waffles with whipped mascarpone and berries. Again, plenty of options for those not eating meat and all delivered with a relaxed but attentive service. Bed and breakfast from £170. Check availability on The Rectory website. The Victoria, Holkham Estate, Norfolk Countryside meets coast at The Vic. Perched on the edge of the grand Holkham Estate and a short stroll from the vast beauty of Holkham beach, you can explore the grounds on bike or foot, meet the resident deer, row a boat on the lake and take a guided tour of the hall. The Holkham Stories experience explains the estate’s history, current sustainable practices and its plans to be carbon neutral. The magnificent walled garden grows everything from grapes – which go to make wine at Burn Valley Vineyard – to herbs, fruit and veg which make their way into dishes at the hotel. Here the menu references its support for suppliers throughout the region, from hyper-local Arthur Howell butchers, Billy Ward’s lobster and Malt Coast Brewery in Wells-next-the-Sea to Fakenham’s Krusty Loaf bakery and Brancaster Bay shellfish. The dining room, with its forest-themed wallpaper, is a fitting setting for hearty dishes like Holkham venison curry and roasted pigeon with parmentier potatoes. The current family in residence’s healthy influence is seen in Lady Leicester’s superfood salad and healthy start breakfast, too. Rooms are reassuringly traditional, with classic striped fabrics, wooden dressing tables and chest of drawers, and Norfolk Natural Living toiletries. Doubles from £200. Check availability at booking.com or holkham.co.uk The Bell at Charlbury, Daylesford The newest of its stable of pubs with rooms, The Bell has all the hallmarks of a Daylesford bolthole: a commitment to local suppliers, largely British menu and cute motif (see the bell on plates, menus and staff T-shirts). The 17th-century building is home to a dozen cosy bedrooms, with a contemporary barn at the rear. There’s more to the pub than a smart market town boozer. Discreetly positioned behind the main building, The Barn serves weekend wood-fired feasting menus – rotisserie chicken, roasts, whole lobster. In summer there’s an additional dining space in The Bell’s acre of apple orchard. The pub’s small, welcoming dining room serves classics like a half pint of prawns, soups, salads, cheeseburger, fish pie, sticky toffee pudding and crumbles, with locally farmed ingredients. Daily specials range from the luxurious, including a chateaubriand for two or whole roasted brill, to a simple porchetta and apple sauce bap. Beers on tap are from family-owned Hook Norton and Jeremy Clarkson’s Hawkstone, Daylesford’s own cider, gins and English sparkling wine. Exposed brick, embroidered bedspreads and reclaimed wooden furniture create a homely, rustic atmosphere. And four posters, red stripes, and crisp blue and white checks feel very British. Rooms start at £194 per night, based on two adults sharing. Check availability on its website. The Bath Priory, Bath In a leafy part of Bath sits this impressive Georgian house, whose old-fashioned hospitality appeals to all generations. Behind the ivy-clad building is a vast, not-so-secret garden, featuring a spectacular cedar of Lebanon tree, croquet lawn, sunken pool and kitchen garden growing herbs, edible flowers, fruit and veg destined for the dining room. Reassuringly classic, bedrooms are designed for comfort and relaxation, with period furniture and florals and tartan adding warmth to neutral décor. Chef Jauca Catalin’s imaginative menu celebrates seasonal, local produce with some surprising Asian touches: a crab starter is teamed with lime confit, mooli and chilli peanut caramel; wild turbot is a complex dish of scallop mousse, caviar and miso and kombu tea. Three courses at dinner can be matched with wines from Burgundy and California, and an exciting Château de L’Ou L’Ove Blanc from Roussillon. At breakfast there is a traditional approach with eggs royal, benedict and florentine, alongside the full English and a fluffy omelette Arnold Bennett. Take a martini in front of the fire in the drawing room in colder months, or afternoon tea on the wisteria-covered terrace in spring for a quintessentially British experience in every season. You can also order a picnic hamper to enjoy in the gardens, with a bottle of English sparkling wine. Rooms start at £275 per night including breakfast, based on two sharing. Check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Coworth Park, Berkshire Contemporary meets classic in a charming mash-up of design that references the rural location. A four poster is fashioned to look like a tree, halls feature dressers filled with plant pots, and huge floral displays and indoor plants abound. Showers are powerful, and some suites feature free-standing copper baths. Fun horsey references – including two dramatic portraits that dominate the bar – are a firm nod to the hotel’s equestrian links. The renowned Guards Polo Club is here (guests can book lessons in advance) and horse riding is offered. Rooms are in the Stables or Mansion House, so there’s a real sense of being in the Berkshire countryside, even while less than an hour from London. Explore the grounds, where there are hidden lily ponds, fountains and sculptures, as well as champagne pods in the warmer months. Woven by Adam Smith is all that’s good about modern, high-end British cooking – fiercely seasonal, celebrating homegrown ingredients, imaginative combinations, clever plating and a passionate, young team from Britain and beyond. Chefs, including Adam, are highly visible, prepping canapés in the restaurant’s anteroom – which doubles as cellar – and explaining each course at the table. Isle of Wight tomatoes, Devon eel and Cornish turbot speak to Adam’s careful sourcing, while A5 wagyu, oscietra, lobster and truffle add a luxurious touch. There’s also a strong focus on English wine. Rooms start at £605 for bed and breakfast, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Royal Crescent Hotel, Bath Few visitors to Bath see beyond the façade of the magnificent Royal Crescent, the city’s most impressive landmark. Fewer guess that No 16 extends into beautiful hotel gardens with lavender path, a haven for birds and butterflies where afternoon tea, cocktails and light lunches are taken. Chef Martin Blake balances simplicity with on-trend touches. Montagu’s Mews’ evening tasting menu starts with tiny canapés of Bath Blue cheese and avocado mousse with cucumber and borage. Then shokupan, a soft Japanese-style milk bread with Somerset’s Ivy Farm butter and smoked roe studded with salmon ikura. Hollandaise for beef tartare is spiked with Bath Ale and IP8 (beer) vinegar. A forced rhubarb dessert is softened with olive oil and vanilla. The comprehensive wine list includes confident choices such as a barrel-aged assyrtiko. The hotel’s five-star spa includes a heated pool with sauna and steam, tranquil treatment rooms and a small garden where you can relax after a swim, still in your robe if you like. Rooms are built for comfort and luxury, some with terraces and views on to the gardens or over the sweeping lawns of the Crescent. Fireplaces in bedrooms may be filled with decorative pinecones, modern art sits alongside vintage portraits and busts, and everywhere the outside is brought in with plants and floral displays. Rooms from £300 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Cowley Manor, Cotswolds Experimental Group, the team behind some of the greatest bars, restaurants and hotels across the world, has teamed up with chef Jackson Boxer in this contemporary country hotel. Jackson can take an unfussy British cut like a Tamworth pork chop and elevate it with a French sauce charcutière (onions, wine, cornichons, mustard); pasta sounds simple but tastes superb (tagliolini with smoked butter and black pepper); and a tarte flambée on the lunch menu sees spelt flatbread topped with Rollright cheese and truffle. The cocktail bar has a clubby feel, in which Experimental’s finest create the classics and their own concoctions, from gin and elderflower-based Saint Germain de Prés, a nod to the group’s French roots, to Horlicks Milk Punch which references a former owner of the manor’s malted drink business. Bar snacks include Old Spot croquettes and cheesy puffs made with local single gloucester, good with a glass of English sparkling, and caviar and crisps is a must order in these decadent surroundings. It’s a curious and comfortable mix of 70s-style glamour, traditional wood panelling and striking bright lacquered furniture in a 17th-century manor, with a laid-back front of house team determined to make your stay cocktail-fuelled and cosy. Rooms start at £329 per night for bed and breakfast, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Glenmorangie House, Scotland Boldly beautiful, this 17th century house looking out over the stunning Moray Firth has been given a maximalist makeover, with a creative Highlands menu to match. With only six bedrooms and three cottages, and warmly attentive staff who’ll soon know how you take your tea, the stay here is designed to feel more house party than hotel. The dining room has one large table, cocktails are taken together before eating, and evening entertainment in the form of music, mixology or stargazing is arranged to make the most of the company. The interiors, by designer Russell Sage, tell the story of Glenmorangie whisky with maximalist styling, sensory interpretation and more than the occasional surprise. Head chef John Wilson creates Glenmorangie food pairings, dishes that are enhanced by, and in turn enhance the flavours of, each whisky. There are all the Scottish treats you’d hope for, with rich haggis en croûte in a velvety whisky sauce. Surrounded by pristine Scottish waters you can expect fresh langoustine, lobsters and scallops, too. Your bacon, sausages and black pudding for breakfast travel just three miles from a local artisan, and some of the fruit, vegetables and herbs are picked outside the dining room window in the handsome walled garden. Thanks to the carefully planned design and the eclectic collection of local arts and crafts, there are new details to discover wherever you turn. Seating in the snug mixes traditional tartan upholstery with bright plain seat pads, antique bud vases are displayed with different seed heads and lichen like prized blooms. For more Scotland inspiration, check out our full guide to the best Scottish hotels. Rooms from £1,347 for three nights, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk The Gallivant, Camber Sands Tucked away just behind the dunes of Camber Sands near Rye, The Gallivant is a cosy bolthole that offers a grown-up seaside break (the hotel is over-16s only) with a relaxed Hamptons beach-house vibe. The Luxury Garden rooms are airy and peaceful with muted beachy painted wood décor, soft throws and well-stocked bookshelves. Doors open onto a coastal garden where you can enjoy coffee in the morning. Sign up for the Complete Gallivant and everything is taken care of, from all-day elevenses in the luxurious snug area to a pre-dinner flask of freshly shaken cocktails to drink in the dunes (or the bath if the weather is bad), a three-course dinner, sleepy tea delivery at bedtime, a morning yoga class and a generous breakfast spread to wake up to. The Gallivant is now also home to Harry’s, a restaurant which continues the hotel’s chic coastal theme and adds precise, pared-back French cookery from ex-Bibendum head chef Matthew Harris. The menu spotlights seasonal produce in classic dishes such as crisp spring vegetable salad with creamy goat’s curd, and delicate smoked eel with oozy soft-boiled egg, rye bread and peppy celeriac remoulade. Mains continue the theme of refined simplicity: sturdy, juicy Romney Marsh Barnsley chop is winningly matched with earthy mushroom duxelle, asparagus, crisp pomme frites and a creamy sauce paloise – a variation of béarnaise flavoured with mint rather than tarragon, and a bull’s-eye match with lamb. The Gallivant sits in the heart of wine country – a location that informs much of the hotel’s offering, from English wine served every day at 5pm in the bar to a lengthy list of homegrown bottles (we sip a chilled Albourne skin contact white for an aperitif with stunning beach views, and enjoy a juicy, crunchy Artelium pinot noir from the South Downs at dinner) and exclusive wine experiences in partnership with the nearby Gusbourne Estate. Of these the most impressive is the Ultimate English Wine Experience, which includes transport, a private tour of the vineyards, tank and barrel samplings, and tutored tastings of rare library and limited-edition wines. The Complete Gallivant (for 2) from £375 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Rose, Deal The Rose, an eight-bedroom hotel, is all that’s good about seaside weekends. It sits three minutes from a beautiful beach, and bang in the centre of a town that’s known for its cute vintage shops and, increasingly, decent food scene. Guests and locals come for well-made cocktails (tip: try Tommy’s smoky mezcal margarita), imaginative wines and local beers, served in a sheltered garden when the weather is good. A small menu of classics such as mac ’n’ cheese and schnitzel is offered alongside dishes that speak to the kitchen’s skill and knowledge. Try sourdough with churned yeast butter; smoked beef tartare with tarragon emulsion; roast saddle of hoggett with ancient grains; and Nuno’s olive oil cake, named after some-time collaborator, Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes. There’s a vintage vibe throughout the place. Expect mismatched floral plates that remind you of your stylish granny, board games in the bar, pops of neon in the courtyard chairs and fabrics, and local art. Rooms are cosy and colourful, and stocked with books. Some also feature record players, antique sinks and roll-top baths. There’s help-yourself tea, coffee and whisky on the landing, too. Complimentary tea and cake for guests in the afternoon is a friendly touch, as is name-checking local suppliers such as Black Pig sausages on the breakfast menu. From £167 for bed and breakfast, check availability at booking.com South Lodge, Horsham This Sussex countryside hotel with three restaurants is making its intention to attract food lovers clear, from the classic three courses at Camellia to the ambitious tasting menu at The Pass and relaxed vibes at Botanica. The latter, with huge, sunny deck overlooking a natural swimming pond, is housed in the modern spa with a plant-focussed menu, and is a window into the hotel’s commitment to sustainability. Brunch is a highlight and goes well beyond pancakes and prosecco. Try poached eggs with spiced green harissa; spanakopita parcels with mojo sauce and yogurt; and rhubarb bircher muesli with crisp ginger rice and stem ginger. Juices are blended in-house and include active botanical tinctures exclusive to the hotel for an extra energy boost. Natural interiors of rattan, wood and stoneware add to the soothing atmosphere. South Lodge also has wine credentials – its south-facing chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier vineyards, planted in collaboration with Ridgeview, will produce high-quality English sparkling wines. From £465 for bed, breakfast and spa access, check availability at booking.com or spabreaks.com Boys Hall, Ashford Only an hour's train ride from London, this revived Grade II listed Jacobean manor is home to a soaring oak-beamed restaurant and nine rooms kitted with antique finds. We stayed in Romney, one of the super-suites located in the eaves of the house and reachable via its own miniature staircase. The lofty space is enriched with dark sage walls, burnt orange cushions and bamboo furniture. The focal point – a freestanding roll-top bath – sits in front of the original stone mullion window and overlooks the front lawn. Rooms also feature super king beds, Dualit coffee pod machine and enviable toiletries from Pelegrims, made with grape extracts from nearby Westwell vineyard. TVs are swapped for Roberts radios; for entertainment, pick up a board game, weekend paper or magazine from the panelled lower sitting room. If you’re feeling peckish, the honesty bar is stocked with treats such as Tunnock’s Caramels. For extra pampering, pre-book a massage in the comfort of your own bedroom on a pop-up massage bed – Swedish, sports or deep tissue massage, plus various facials, are all available. The dining room – crafted from reclaimed local green oak and stone – puts Kentish produce at the forefront. Expect a menu of luxury comfort food: smoked Ashmore and speck croquettes with saffron mayo; 30-day dry-aged rib eye steak; cookie dough with salted caramel ice cream. There is also homemade cakes, served with locally sourced teas and coffee, available in the cosy lounges, or retire to the wood-panelled pub serving Kentish ales and bar snacks. From £190, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or boys-hall.com Fort Road Hotel, Margate One of Margate’s iconic seafront buildings opposite Turner Contemporary gallery has been restored to its former life as a hotel. In a nod to its history, sepia photographs and postcards of the seaside town in its bathing holiday heyday line the burnt orange walls. Design is at the forefront throughout, with pieces from artists with Kentish ties and vintage Scandinavian furniture (Danish teak mirrors, beech chairs, rosewood tables) giving each room its own unique character. Bold-hued tiles adorn neat bathrooms, kitted out with seaweed-infused products from local spa Haeckels. Local connections extend to the food and drink options, served in the smart, intimate ground-floor restaurant complete with flickering fire to warm up the colder months. Choose between a Kentish wine from the likes of Simpsons vineyard or a local gin (Greensand Ridge is herbaceous while Dockyard has notes of citrus and spice). Silky, thick-cut trout is lifted with Hinxden Farm Dairy crème fraîche. Crostini are topped with salty smoked anchovy slivers and tapenade or creamy garlic cannellini beans. A huge pork chop is sautéed in parsley mustard sauce, while skate wing comes bathed in beurre noisette and brown shrimp. Breakfast is a real treat, with bacon sarnies offering a satisfying crunch courtesy of hot baguettes from Oast Bakery down the road (that also bakes divine cinnamon buns). Small touches take the hospitality to the next level. A brown paper bag of homemade cookies awaits in the room, best enjoyed with a sherry-laced hot chocolate on the rooftop while watching the sunset over the rugged coastline. Doubles from £140, check availability at fortroadhotel.com or booking.com Grace and Savour, Birmingham A restaurant with rooms within the grounds of contemporary hotel Hampton Manor, Grace & Savour is a sustainability-first operation run by chef David and front-of-house Anette Taylor. It has its own kitchen garden, a tour of which is offered on arrival. A handful of rooms within the walled garden have a pared-back Scandi sensibility and enticing views of chefs prepping dinner in the restaurant’s open kitchen. Fifteen well-balanced courses reflect David’s commitment to seasonality, regenerative farming and animal welfare, all as beautiful as they are delicious. But spartan it is not. Jerusalem artichoke comes in its deep-fried skin, and tastes buttery – like the best baked potato you ever had – topped with small artichoke discs with pickled bay leaf gel adding extra interest. A one-bite venison tartare is served on the cutest, crisp base. Burnt leeks in a rich emulsion are given extra welly with beef garum. Caviar is in evidence. Chatting with the chefs from your counter seat or when they deliver dishes to the table is part of the fun, as is the wine pairing which focusses on lesser-known wines, many of which are made in small batches. Breakfast overlooking the garden is three relaxed courses with juices and coffee: charcuterie, cheese and apples; yogurt and honey; sausage, spinach cooked in chicken fat and mustard, and a wonderful cinnamon bun. The industrial-style steel-framed panelled windows and corrugated tables and headboards are softened by muted tones of clay and earth to give each bedroom a soothing feel. A huge bathtub and a generous bowl of bath salts demands to be used. Walk-in showers feature Birmingham-based Harvest Skincare. In the restaurant, tableware by a local ceramicist is made from clay sourced from the estate. From £350 for dinner, bed and breakfast; hamptonmanor.com/grace-savour The Fox at Oddington Daylesford's pared-back aesthetic is tempered here with a light-hearted foxy theme on everything from topiary to tableware. Its airy bar and Saddle Room is built around a lively open kitchen where chefs knock out the kind of relaxed, seasonal food we could eat every day. Sustainability is built into all Daylesford does, most visibly in the pub’s living roof, planted with wildflowers and herbs, and acting as a nectar source for bees. Chef Alan Gleeson’s menu of modern classics encourages sharing, from a half-pint of prawns and some Daylesford cheese to the full three courses. Small plates including tuna tartare with soy and ginger, and heritage tomatoes teamed with feta and mint are a promising start. A decent, tender pork chop comes with greens and apple; a simple plaice with seaweed butter and Ratte potatoes. Flatbread with lardo, anchovy and salsa verde is a must-try, as is Korean fried chicken. There’s usually a fruit tart and a dark chocolate mousse with pistachio biscotti. At breakfast, The Fox is flooded with light. Oversized plants and artfully placed saddles all echo the Gloucestershire location. Omelette Arnold Bennett, a rich haddock and cheese concoction, is served with hollandaise in a mini skillet; french toast with poached apricots is equally luxurious, as are breakfast brioche rolls. Wood-beamed rooms are decorated with hunting scenes and local wildlife from local artists. Sheepskins, woollen rugs and quilted blankets add a cosy touch to crisp white bedding. Some rooms include a free-standing bath, showers are powerful and fragrant with sage and geranium Bamford botanical products. B&B from £225 per night. thefoxatoddington.com Leonardslee, West Sussex Where else can you take a walk though woodlands, join feeding time for baby wallabies, enjoy a vineyard picnic, follow a sculpture trail and then settle in for an evening of imaginative food and wine pairings? At Leonardslee House, part of Leonardslee Lakes & Gardens on which the UK’s first pinotage vineyard is planted, you can be as active or as laid back as you like. Inspired by the South African owner’s appreciation of Cape Winelands experiences, it’s a grown-up playground centred around the very best food and wine. Restaurant Interlude offers a tasting menu featuring ingredients from the estate. Each dish is presented with a card showing a map of where it was grown, foraged or raised. Chef Jean Delport’s technical skill makes for a unique experience with playfully named dishes such as “rabbit eats carrot” and the visually arresting “chef’s pasture raised egg with crispy (chicken) foot”. There are 18 well-paced courses, a clever balance of South African-inspired dishes and the more local, including honey from Leonardslee’s beehives with salted caramel. Dishes can be paired with wines, notably those from the owner’s estate near Cape Town. Book in advance for a wine tasting to try wines from family-run Benguela Cove Lagoon in Hermanus. You can also take a tour of the pinotage vineyards, which will produce their first wine next year. With input from interior designers including Nina Campbell and Sanderson, bedrooms have muted, tranquil tones with feature wallpapers and textiles, giving a contemporary feel to a classic English country house. Rooms from £444, check availability at booking.com The Double Red Duke, Cotswolds This restaurant with rooms in the Cotswolds village of Clanfield is committed to cocktails, conviviality and the restoration of calm. From the jolly, red-striped canopies on its terrace to the promise of gin recovery kits in its 19 bedrooms, The Double Red Duke exudes a delightful sense of playfulness. Start with a Barbecue Pineapple cocktail in the bar: a zesty blend of mezcal, pineapple and lime. In the airy Garden Room share starters of apple-glazed bacon ribs with fennel slaw; charred squid; and smoky flatbreads. Larger plates include piri-piri chicken, with nostalgic desserts of sticky toffee and treacle tart to finish. Book at the chef’s counter for ringside seats as your seafood or steaks are prepared over coals, on the spit or in the clay-fired oven. In the morning, this becomes a breakfast buffet with cinnamon buns and pastries from local bakery Blake’s, along with sourdough, marmalade, honey, cheese and cold meats. The chefs will also prepare overnight oats and a much-Instagramed breakfast muffin with Ogleshield cheese, egg, bacon and sausage. Co-owner Georgie Pearlman has put her heart and soul into creating an atmosphere that’s soothing and inspiring. There are modern takes on traditional bathroom floor tiles, oversized patterns on textured wallpapers and simple floral displays. Ask the Duke’s team about local walks – wellies provided. Visit the converted shepherd’s hut to enjoy a beauty treatment or massage, and if you loved the Marmite and cheese breakfast rolls, take a three-minute stroll over to Blake’s to buy some to take home. Rooms from £230 per night; check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Artist Residence, Bristol The unstoppable Artist Residence team has restored a Georgian townhouse, previously an old boot factory and organised squat, right by Bristol’s eclectic city centre. Plenty of the building’s original features remain intact, including wooden beams, pretty cornicing and a dramatic skylight. As with the group's existing properties, the hotel puts the spotlight on local artists, with pieces in all colours, shapes and sizes turning the dilapidated walls into contemporary galleries. Rooms range from compact but charming, thanks to original arch windows and ensuite bathrooms with Bramley products and rainfall showers, to larger feature rooms. In The Lookout, a spiral staircase connects the bedroom to a cosy sitting area and large wrap around balcony with views of colourful terraced houses in Montpelier and beyond. When the star-studded guest list comes to visit, they tend to stay in the two suites, both boasting quirky seating areas, spacious bathrooms with rolltop baths and five large sash windows that look out onto leafy Portland Square. The Boot Factory is open all day, every day, with plenty of cosy corners, a brick-wall backed bar and a small terrace strung with light bulbs. For breakfast, order colour-themed smoothies alongside sweetcorn fritters, Turkish eggs or indulgent banana bread French toast. Later in the day, pick from the pizza menu or a selection of tapas-style dishes such as chargrilled watermelon and feta, salt and pepper squid with saffron aïoli and roast carrots with carrot purée and hazelnuts. Treat yourself to a pastry or two from Farro, a popular bakery round the corner. Silky, bourbon-laced Colombian panela tart, raisin-studded babka swirls and famous soft serve topped with crunchy croissant honey crisps. Mooch up to colourful Picton Street, stopping on the way to spot Banksy's murals, for Italian ingredient treasure trove C&T Licata & Son, local coffee hang out The Bristolian and neighbourhood trattoria Bianchis. Discover more Bristol food and drinks picks here. Doubles from £140, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Eastbury, Sherbourne Slow down, de-stress and be cosseted at this character-packed hotel in the Dorset market town. Guests can stay in the main Georgian townhouse, Potting Shed rooms in the walled garden or in Eastbury Cottage, with each accommodation offering laid-back vibes and a homely atmosphere. The hotel’s small but deluxe garden spa comes with hot tubs and a steam room for fully-fledged relaxing, or guests can venture outside the grounds to explore the town’s food and craft markets and Sherborne Castle (and sample The Castle’s wines in the Eastbury’s bar for good measure). On the menu, Chef Matthew Street works with local suppliers and some further afield to ensure his menus offer the best ingredients: Devon crab from Paignton is served with a chilled cucumber and wasabi soup for starters, followed by indulgent and satisfying mains including Japanese braised pork belly with miso broth and burrata and ricotto agnolotti with parmesan crisp. Alternatively, for a more intimate evening there’s the option to book the garden pod, a unique glass snug looking out across the lawn, furnished with plump cushions, soft blankets and ambient lighting. Interior designer Kathleen Fraser balances muted tones of pale blue and green with colourful prints and interesting textures. The new Eastbury Cottage adjacent to the hotel boasts three delightfully cosy bedrooms, one with a free-standing bath as well as a separate modern shower room. Standout features include the inglenook fireplace, low beams, a very well-equipped kitchen, and sunny private garden with hot tub and dining area. Doubles from £195, check availability at booking.com Heckfield Place, Heckfield The lines between inside and out are beautifully blurred at this Hampshire estate, where guests can bask in the natural surroundings and enjoy food from the hotel’s biodynamic, organic farm and orchards. Saddleback pigs and chickens lead a happy life here, and a micro-dairy provides the house with milk, cream, yogurt and butter from Guernsey cows. The menu is overseen by culinary director Skye Gyngell (chef-patron at Spring at Somerset House) with two restaurants serving what’s good to eat right now from what’s grown on the estate and Fern Varrow, a biodynamic farm. At Marle you’ll find simple, seasonal dishes such as lamb shoulder with anchovy, and stuffed farm courgettes. During summer, meals are served on the Italian terrace overlooking the gardens and woodlands, with fire pits and sheepskins to keep you cosy on chillier nights. Imaginative breakfasts include bircher muesli and roasted rhubarb, bubble and squeak with fried eggs, and buckwheat crêpes with honey butter. Hearth, open for dinner and lunch on Saturday, focusses on fire cooking with lobster, sirloin or grilled farm veg. In line with Heckfield’s biodynamic ethos, cocktails in the Moon Bar are influenced by the lunar phases and made with unique tinctures and bitters. Try turmeric jingle (chamomile gin, millet, lemon and cardoon liquor, turmeric bitters) or cherry moon (sour cherry spirit, lapsang souchong bitters, egg, lemon and lime). Rooms are both luxurious and plastic-free, with headboards made by local craftspeople. Interiors focus on muted shades and natural materials such as rush matting, while dried flowers and plants bring the outdoors in. Doubles from £650, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Beaverbrook, Surrey A curiously brilliant mix of traditional British and modern Japanese makes this character-packed Surrey hotel a playground for food lovers. Once the home of Winston Churchill’s Minister of Aircraft Production, newspaper magnate Lord Beaverbrook, the hotel’s aviation theme is evident, from the Spitfire at the entrance, to vintage photos and artworks throughout the house. Japanese Grill serves exquisite sushi, sashimi and Josper-grilled specialities, including charcoaled wagyu. The eight-course tasting menu includes popcorn shrimp with ponzu mayo, scallop ceviche, nigiri topped with Kentish ants (which add a wonderful citrussy kick), black cod and beef tenderloin, and a chocolate flowerpot with nasturtium – a nod to Beaverbrook’s commitment to growing its own. The estate’s relaxed The Garden House restaurant is a short stroll from the main house, reached via the kitchen garden, where chefs harvest leaves, veg and herbs. The menu here is British with Italian influences, such as pici with Cornish crab and crispy polenta squid. Nearby Albury Vineyard produces the house English sparkling wine, which is best enjoyed on the terrace overlooking the gardens and Surrey Hills countryside. Each of the luxurious bedrooms in the main house are named for Beaverbrook’s illustrious guests – Churchill, the Kennedys and Liz Taylor, to name a few – and decorated in an appropriate style, from muted masculine tones and bold stripes and graphic tiling, to delicate floral fabrics. In The Garden House, wicker and wood provide a neutral backdrop for bright glasses and cruet sets, and the botanical prints and patterned plates that line the walls. Doubles from £545, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or beaverbrook.co.uk Bingham Riverhouse, Richmond Escape the city at this riverside bolthole, converted from two Georgian townhouses with a literary history. Though compact, the hotel has plenty of nooks to enjoy a peaceful moment. French windows open onto a pretty terrace for afternoon tea, and the country-style drawing room is a beautiful spot to sip a mezcal jalapeño negroni. Breakfast is taken in the library, where squishy teal blue banquettes sweep beneath shelves lines with hundreds of Penguin paperbacks. The 15 rooms, each named after a Michael Field’s poem (the pseudonym for the literary couple who previously lived in the building), are decorated in luxurious mid-century style, with touches including Hebridean wool throws, stacks of vintage books tied up with string, sensual LA-EVA toiletries in the marble bathrooms, and artisan crystals for well-being. Book a river room for views of the Thames, eye-catching Catchpole & Rye copper bath tubs and to avoid traffic noise from the roadside options. Doubles from £194, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com House of Joro, Sheffield At this boutique Nordic-inspired nook, with just four luxurious rooms, enjoy expertly curated tasting plates with access to a communal kitchen space and lounge where you can fix a pre-dinner drink at the ‘honesty bar’. We recommend a seasonal G&T featuring Joro’s own Natural Gin made with foraged botanicals. Later, relax into a plush king-sized bed or slide into a bubble bath in your freestanding tub. Joro’s restaurant is a 5-minute walk away in Kelham Island, once the heart Sheffield’s steel industry, now a buzzing food and drink hub inside a series of upcycled shipping containers. Trendy dark walls and low lighting create a relaxed atmosphere where you can experience mouth-watering bites like a Montgomery cheddar & onion croustade, moving onto a beautifully umami mushroom porridge, then a whipped white chocolate and blackberry dessert. For more flavour exploration, try the paired drinks menu, featuring exciting wines from across the globe and a mixture of ciders, spirits and beers. The next morning, your three-tiered trolley breakfast will be delivered to your room, so save some room for fresh croissants, smoked salmon on sourdough and muesli with fresh berries. If you need a dose of caffeine, brew a cafetière of the complimentary Forge Coffee, roasted in Sheffield. Book an eight-course dinner bed & breakfast stay, Wednesday-Saturday, from £225 for two people for a double room. This includes a half-bottle of Nyetimber sparkling wine to toast your arrival. Doubles from £225, check availability at jororestaurant.co.uk For more local recommendations, read our guide to the best restaurants in Sheffield. The Mitre Hampton Court, Surrey Located directly opposite Hampton Court itself, The Mitre Hotel couldn’t be better placed for a historical weekend away. The hotel’s main restaurant is 1665, a cleverly designed moody brasserie where every table offers river views. The menu features generous portions of British and Italian classics, including burrata and chicken Milanese, plus surprisingly standout crispy cauliflower popcorn for a starting snack. Cocktails are top-notch: try the G&T with unique Big Smoke Rhubarb & Pink Lemonade gin. Alongside 1665, the hotel’s Coppernose is a buzzy bar for evening cocktails and breakfast the next day. The short breakfast menu covers all bases, from a tropical smoothie bowl and sweetcorn fritters to a full English complete with wild boar sausages. For more interesting foodie experiences, try afternoon tea served in the airy Orangery or spend a sunny evening on the waterfront terrace, with the Whispering Angel bar to keep you topped up with bubbly as you watch the sunset over Hampton Court Bridge. Each of the 36 stylish rooms are individually and colourfully designed (don’t miss the cosy library complete with a jukebox). For a true treat, the luxurious Catherine Parr suite has a four-poster bed and freestanding roll-top copper bath in the bedroom (although it does face the road). Extra touches like complimentary wine and freshly baked shortbread hanging on your door add to the luxurious hideaway feel. Rooms start from £200, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk The Pig at Bridge Place, Kent Just three miles from Canterbury sits this carefully converted Jacobean mansion. Style-wise, it ticks every Pig box: a focus on the kitchen garden, a relaxed restaurant and homely but luxurious bedrooms. The Grade II-listed building at the hotel’s heart, once bright pink in places (it was a popular nightclub in its heyday, hosting the likes of Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd), was expertly restored during a £5.5million makeover. An imposing elm staircase takes centre-stage, while cosy snugs are great places to sit and ponder, with huge open fireplaces, gnarled wooden panelling and Persian rugs. The bar, refreshingly bedecked with female portraits, is all mahogany and maroon and, as with all Pig bars, is generously stocked with multi-coloured cocktail glasses that shimmer on window shelves. Some bedrooms benefit from original doors, four poster beds and freestanding baths, though all have mini bars stuffed with Kentish treats (grab a bag of crisps, made with Canterbury’s very own Ashmore farmhouse cheese). You can also stay in a hop pickers’ hut – a romantic log cabin for two, set on stilts in the water meadows near the kitchen garden – or a family-friendly two-bedroom lodge, complete with kitchen. Pigs don’t stand on ceremony – there are no white tablecloths or leather-bound menus here. Instead, expect cheery waiting staff and a dining room that wouldn’t look out of place at a posh garden centre. The restaurant’s biggest commitment is to locality: what can’t be grown in the kitchen garden, which you can see from your table, is mainly sourced from within a 25-mile radius, including Kentish Pip apples and wild meat from Mallards Farm. Breakfast is a feast: try dairy-free banana bread, stewed home-grown rhubarb, and nut-free muesli with coconut yogurt. Or, indulge in The Full Pig-Out, made special by the addition of zero-mile mushrooms and poached eggs from the hotel’s hens (they keep quails, too). Doubles from £210. Check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or thepighotel.com Babington House, Somerset The original cool country house hotel, Babington, was one of the very first Soho House Group properties to open. Tucked away down an avenue of trees outside Frome (check out our foodie guide to the best places to eat and drink in Frome here), in the Somerset countryside, the honey-stone 18th century manor house is part members’ club, part hotel (it’s open to all but there are reduced rates for members). All of the hotel’s 33 rooms are atmospheric and beautifully, if femininely, styled. For groups of friends, the old gatekeeper’s lodge, at the end of the main drive, is a self-contained, three-bedroom cottage. In all the rooms, the detail is the impressive thing: full-length mirrors come as standard,, chargers are provided for laptops and phones, hot water bottles are supplied for chillier nights, full-size Cowshed toiletries in the bathrooms and homemade chocolate chip cookies in the minibar. Entertainment is in plentiful supply. Within the extensive grounds, you’ll find a gym, two swimming pools (one indoors, under a beautiful timber-trussed ceiling, the other a sleek outdoor number fringed by a giant L-shaped green-and-white striped lounger), tennis courts, a football pitch, croquet lawn, cricket pitch, beautiful sage-green, leather-seated bikes to borrow, a cinema and a sauna, hammam and steam rooms. Overlooking the extensive kitchen garden there’s also a full-service Cowshed spa (book a marhalika massage, an intense but deeply relaxing and unusual treatment that blends Swedish and Thai methods – think sports massage mixed with acupressure). For dinner, book a window table in the main restaurant, the Orangery, and enjoy sweeping views of the lawn and the lake through towering Georgian windows while you eat. If you want a more casual supper, head to the bar to snack on spiced cauliflower fritters and Scotch eggs or sit down to imaginative salads (Castlemead chicken with spiced chickpeas and harissa yoghurt), wood-fired pizzas and pub favourites. The sprawling breakfast buffet is not to be missed, and nor is the complimentary afternoon tea spread out in the deli each afternoon – impossible to resist. Check rates and availability at mrandmrssmith.com More hotel guides Best country house hotels in the UK Best health and wellness retreats Best hotels in London Best UK boutique hotels Best hotels in the Cotswolds Best Cornwall hotels Best hotels in the Lake District Best London hotel bars to visit Best romantic hotels in the UK European hidden gems: hotels off the beaten track Best Paris hotels Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best restaurants with rooms in the UK Best Amsterdam hotels Black Friday hotel deals