Looking for places to visit in France? Check out our top French food trips and take a spin around olive groves Uzes, relax in luxury in Provence or sample patisserie in Paris
Looking for the best food trips to take in France? Check out our guide to the best places across the country to eat and drink, from hearty ski food in the French Alps to undiscovered corners of Provence. For more French inspiration, check out our picks of the best hotels in Paris and foodie guide to Lyon, then hop across the border with our guide to the best Spanish food trips or further afield with our best Morocco food trips. 17 best French food trips Uzes For chocolat-style villages Pungent truffles and gummy bears? Just two of the more unusual ingredients on the menu in Uzès, one of those achingly pretty French towns whose Chocolat-style looks make it seem like a Hollywood film set. Indeed, its plane-tree-pricked Place aux Herbes once starred in the Gérard Depardieu movie Cyrano de Bergerac. Uzès is surrounded by truffle plantations and hosts a truffle festival every January, while confectionary giant Haribo opened Le Musée du Bonbon here in 1996. The company is synonymous with the gummy bears invented by German founder Hans Riegel in 1920. Your ticket comes with a bag of sweets to suck as you wander from room to room learning about the history of sugar and the candy-making process before ‘nosing’ some of the ingredients. Pressing a button releases a puff of vanilla, cacao or liquorice into the air. This less well-known corner of France is just 40 minutes from Avignon, where you can jump off the Eurostar as it hurtles on to Marseilles. Once here the pace is far more leisurely. Uzès has its share of sites to tick off including the cathedral of Saint Théodorit with its ornate Romanesque bell tower, the Fenestrelle, the Duke’s palace and the Medieval Garden in the grounds of a ruined château which has around 450 plants, many medicinal, and is a lovely spot to unwind with a liquorice tisane after clambering up the tower’s 100 steps for a sweeping panorama. Be sure to visit Uzès on a Wednesday or Saturday when you’ll find a food market in full swing. And don't miss a visit to Boulangerie Fougasse d’Uzès where you can buy fougasse filled with anchovies and olives. Where to stay: spend the night at boutique hotel La Maison d'Uzes set in a listed building the heart of the old town. The hotel restaurant, all parquet floors and vibrant velvet chairs, serves modern French dishes and local specialities, and the hotel has a spa, Roman baths and hammam. Doubles from £255, check availability at booking.com Provence For luxury relaxation Head to Provence to explore pretty villages, ancient vineyards and historical cities. Hike up Mount Ventoux, head to a wine-tasting at Cheateau Pesquie (and enjoy picnic in the pretty garden) or visit the idyllic village of L'Isle Sur-La-Sorgue on market day for antiques, bountiful fresh produce and lavender souvenirs to take home. The pretty walled city of Avignon is perfect for soaking up some history. Where to stay: Hilltop village Crillon Le Brave is a vision of Provençal style; a clutch of honey-hued, pastel-shuttered houses surrounded by slopes carpeted with olive groves and vineyards. The top of the village is now the effortlessly elegant five-star Hotel Crillon Le Brave. The highlight has to be the 180-degree views of unspoilt rolling countryside, vineyards, olive groves and Mount Ventoux. Made of nine houses linked together by the village streets, the 34 rooms are stylishly decorated in soothing neutral tones with Diptyque products in every bathroom. After a day of exploring, return to the hotel for dinner on the terrace at La Table du Ventoux. Admire the panoramic views whilst dining on seasonal French cuisine – expect local asparagus in spring and strawberries in summer. Spend your time playing boules in the terraced garden, relaxing by the pool the or having a massage in the tiny spa set in atmospheric ancient vaulted stables. Should you be able to tear yourself away from the hotel, borrow e-bikes to explore through fields and tiny villages. Doubles from £408, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Cognac For brandy, vineyards and medieval towns In southwestern France the Cognac region – birthplace of the world-famous grape brandy – is a rural one of rolling hills laced with vineyards and pristine medieval towns. It’s an area ripe for exploration, speckled with distilleries and cognac houses, many of which you can visit, from river boat rides and VR tours at Hennessy to intimate private dinners at Delamain, cocktail mixing at Château Montifaud and, of course, cognac tastings galore – sip neat or copy the locals and mix with tonic water. Many producers also use cognac to make a fortified wine, pineau des charentes, which makes a deliciously fruity aperitif. The town of Cognac is where some of the biggest cognac brands are located and makes a great base for exploration. Its quiet cobbled streets, full of medieval and 18th-century architecture, as well as the quay-lined Charente river, are perfect for walking off cognac tastings. It's also where you’ll find buzzy, industrial-chic Poulpette which has a counter lined with natural wines and a roster of pared-back seasonal plates. Or, further afield, head to Montendre for lunch at La Quincaillerie, an ironmonger turned restaurant with a classic French menu (don’t miss the cheese tray). Where to stay: In the heart of Cognac, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa is a 19th-century cognac house turned five-star retreat, a seamless fusion of period architecture with modern glass structures. Interiors cocoon you in buttery neutrals, and rooms come stocked with French toiletries and madeleines on arrival. Book a junior suite on the upper floor of the original 19th-century part of the hotel, which comes with exposed wooden beams. The Michelin-starred Les Foudres, in the old ageing cellar, serves tasting menus that ripple with seasonal, local produce, while the more casual La Distillerie serves classic Gallic fare as well as a majestic breakfast buffet that includes fresh breads and pastries, eggs cooked to order and pain perdu. From €265 per room, check availability at chaismonnethotel.com and booking.com. Lille For a gourmet city break Close to the Belgian border, Lille is but 1 hour 22 minutes on the Eurostar from London, and one of northern France’s undiscovered culinary gems. It has traditional Flemish estaminet restaurants like Estaminet La Ch’Tite Brigitte, which serves regional classics like carbonnade beef stew in beer, leek flamiche and escargot in maroilles cheese in an eclectic setting. Krevette is a stylish contemporary seafood bistrot serving the freshest local catch in dishes like breaded sardines with oyster mayonnaise and St Jacques with BBQ brown butter. Méert is a Lille institution famous for its pastel patisserie and caramel-filled waffles. Grand Scène is a colourful, neon-lit street-food market hall with 10 stands serving global specialities like tacos, bao, gyros and duck burgers. Finally, BierBuik is a trendy pink-tiled craft brew pub that also serves modern takes on Lille tavern dishes, including moules, crêpes, and some of the best frites in town. Bonnelles For a peaceful countryside escape Bonnelles is the idyllic setting to switch off, get outdoors and reset for a weekend. It’s a huge expanse of countryside just a short drive from Paris but it seems a world away from city life. Explore the protected Haute Vallée de Chevreuse Regional Natural Park or the Bonnelles Ponds nature reserve for serene walks. Le Barn is a must-visit for horse lovers, as it shares grounds with prestigious horsemanship school Haras de la Cense and is now offering a Horse Whisperer’s Experience for guests on Sundays. The two-and-a-half-hour experience introduces you to a horse, their training and behaviours, then gives you the chance to try out what you’ve learned at the lunge ring alongside an expert trainer. The venue is a popular retreat for Parisians looking to switch off from city life and is just as easily accessible from the UK, being just a 45-minute drive from Paris Orly airport. It champions local food, with a vast kitchen garden that provides a lot of the fruit and veg for the daily changing restaurant menu, designed by the head chef according to what’s in season. Other French classics, like award-winning cheese and wine, are locally sourced, and the simple breakfast is a treat. Think freshly baked baguettes, homemade jam, and bacon and eggs. Where to stay: Le Barn offers cosy rooms with tons of activities included in the price. From yoga to archery, there’s plenty on offer to occupy you while enjoying the 500-acre estate, full of grazing horses. The grounds have a sauna, hammam and Nordic baths, and two restaurants serving seasonal, locally sourced menus. Guests can also go for a massage, play board games by the fire or borrow an e-bike to explore the grounds, and kids can enjoy pony rides and games in the garden. Rooms are separate from the main building, across two converted barns with special suites available as well. Most have a balcony that overlooks the horse fields or the hotel’s lake (which is open for wild swimming if that’s your thing). Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com Normandy For local produce Calvados, cream, butter, cheese, apples, cider: like many places in France, Normandy is not easy on the arteries. It is, however, a superb place to sample AOC-status booze and food made by small, unfussy family producers, many of whom have been perfecting their produce since William the Conqueror started peppering the landscape with castles. Normandy boasts no fewer than 30 Michelin-starred restaurants and a packed calendar of food festivals throughout the year celebrating its natural larder, from the Fête du Camembert in Orbec in June, July’s oyster festival in Denneville, the Foire aux Fromages in Livarot in August, the scallop festival in Ouistreham in October and an annual cider festival in picturesque Beuvron-en-Auge. With 370 miles of coastline, menus are brimming with seafood. The region’s oysters have their own AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) and Port-en-Bessin’s scallops are justifiably famous – this is the home of coquilles St Jacques. The countryside is lush and green, grazed by native dairy herds, the region’s cheeseboard showcases the big four: livarot, neufchâtel, pont l’évêque and camembert de Normandie. The rolling hills are also blanketed with orchards of apples and pears, used to produce cider, calvados and poiré. Where to stay: soak up the impressive surroundings of the Château de la Puisaye, a rambling 18th-century property in Verneuil-sur-Avre, now an elegant b&b. British owners, Diana and Bruno Costes, have spent years renovating the Napolean III château, and now offer a handful of rooms in the main house, a studio over the stables and a holiday cottage: the old hunting lodge. Breakfast in the wood-panelled dining room is a delicious spread of home-baked bread and jams, fruit from their orchards, and local cheeses. Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com Brittany For the home of crêpes You’re never more than a frisbee’s throw from a crêperie in Brittany. The northwest corner of France is famous for its pancakes – sweet, wafer-thin crêpes smeared with salted caramel or buckwheat galettes stuffed with artisan sausage. It’s also a popular bucket-and-spade destination. But there’s more to Brittany than beaches and pancakes. Its larder is bulging with cider, oysters and onions; that French stereotype, the beret-clad man on a bike with a string of onions round his neck, was an ‘onion Johnny,’ hopping from Brittany to Britain to sell sweet, pink onions from Roscoff. Butter is also big in Brittany – rich, creamy and seasoned with fleur de sel from the Guérande. Where to stay: Right by the water’s edge in Dinard, an elegant resort town in Brittany whose belle époque villas and grand hotels still hint at the grandeur of days gone by, Hotel Castelbrac holds its own among the surroundings. This fortress-like jumble of manicured stonework, originally built in the 1930s as a marine research station, sits on the town’s eastern shoreline overlooking St Malo across the water. Inside there’s a sophisticated, modern vibe (think art deco-inspired headboards and bathroom fittings, columns intricately tiled with mosaics and porthole-like windows illuminating velvet banquettes in the bar) while panoramic seaside views reflect the hotel’s restive, peaceful atmosphere. Splash out on one of the prestige rooms and you can enjoy panoramic windows stretching across the entire front of the room. Walk-in rain showers come as standard but some rooms also have elegant bathtubs at the foot of the beds Pampering is very much the order of the day here. Guests have access to private boat trips, bespoke treatments by Parisian spa brand Thémaéand a stunning sliver of a pool – a heated outdoor lap pool that lies just above the shore (bob your head up between strokes and you can look out at the sea below). Doubles from £349, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Dordogne For rural idyll There’s a reason why the Dordogne river has long been a magnet for those of us in search of classic beauty: it undulates through some of the loveliest parts of France, curling round towns and villages of gasp-inducing gorgeousness and, despite the odd sighting of jet-skis, gives the impression that nothing much ever changes. Head to Souillac (not for food, but for the slightly creepy Automaton museum; unmissable if you love the bizarre). And Sarlat, whose Saturday market is almost impossibly over-subscribed at the height of the summer season. As with many tourist destinations, the restaurants haven’t the greatest reputation, buy fat, vac-packed sausages and figs from the covered market in the Église Sainte Marie. For a blissful bout of people-watching at the heart of the market square, visit hilarious Jimmy’s Bar, a rockabilly French fantasy of a US diner, to eat oysters from one of the nearby market stalls and quantities of chilled Bergerac rosé. Where to stay: Chateau de la Treyne, clinging to the steep banks of the river, has baronial, wood-panelled rooms, vast open fireplaces and sense of serenity. Breakfast includes tiny, freshly made omelettes, cured ham, just-baked baguette and pastries, homemade jams and butter so luscious you could eat it by the spoonful. Dinner at the Chateau's Michelin-starred restaurant is quite the event, course after course of inventive cuisine making full use of the area’s native bounty – Quércy lamb, Aubrac beef and truffles (of course), in a tapestried room breathing stories of the past. Check rates and availability at chateaudelatreyne.com Read more about edible delights of the Dordogne here Sète For seaside fun Sète’s sandy beaches are thronged with visitors during summer, but the peninsula has bigger fish to fry than tourism – it’s the largest fishing port on the French Mediterranean coast, and behind it is the oyster-filled Thau lagoon. It’s picturesque, too – from the hillside ‘Little Naples’ district to its boat-lined canals, the 19th-century facades are an attractive reminder of the town’s prosperous wine-trading heritage. Local recipes – such as octopus-stuffed tielle pie – have stood the test of time, many brought by the Italian immigrants that settled here in the last century. The best seafood restaurants are along Quai Maximin Lucciardi near the harbour, where you’re likely to spot fishermen unloading still-writhing stock. Where to stay: Le Grand Hotel retains much of its belle époque charm. Velvet curtains and chandeliers set the scene for market-fresh ingredients at Quai 17, the hotel’s opulent restaurant; try the signature lobster risotto with bisque sauce, or local speciality bourride, a monkfish stew with aïoli. The bright bedrooms are spread across three elegant floors – go for one that overlooks the canal and gaze at the shimmering image of buildings and boats reflected in the water. Doubles from £149, check availability at booking.com Languedoc Roussillon For less crowded South of France West of the glitz and glamour of the Côte d’Azur is a quieter, less crowded corner of the South of France: the Languedoc Roussillon. Sweeping from Provence to the Pyrénées via a scenic string of historic towns and villages, shimmering coastline and wild, untamed countryside, the region is also one of the oldest and largest wine growing areas of the world. Inland you can take to the lazy waters of the Canal du Midi or the rugged surroundings of the Cévennes National Park or visit one of the many vineyards of the region. Historic local towns with their bustling produce markets like Pézanas, Béziers and Narbonne provide plenty of scope for picking up ingredients if you want to self-cater. Where to stay: wine forms the central theme of Château St. Pierre de Serjac, a 200-acre hotel-cum-vineyard outside Puissalicon. At its heart is a turreted, 19th century chateau surrounded by fragrant gardens, olive trees and palms. From its windows guests can gaze out over a huge, heated infinity pool onto regimented rows of vines and, beyond it, the fertile Langeudocienne landscape. The ground floor is home to the reception area, bar and a fine dining restaurant, and is decorated in a sophisticated palette of peacock and teal with Art Deco-style chandeliers picked up in the antiques market in nearby Béziers. A Cinq Mondes spa, with tranquil indoor pool, completes the picture. Upstairs in the château are eight, luxurious suites, fittingly decked out with chandeliers, antiques, roll-top baths and singular touches such as (in an eaves room) the hand-painted walls of a former chapel. An extensive renovation has also seen the repurposing of the estates’ many outbuildings, resulting in 36-self catering apartments and houses. These are the real appeal for families. Sleeping two to eight, each one has been tastefully decorated in 50 shades of Elephant’s Breath with lots of linen, oak and wrought iron. They also come with high spec kitchens and all the latest tech – some of the larger properties also have fenced off pools. Amble over to the château for breakfast in the main restaurant – a spread of freshly baked croissants and pastries, fruit, yoghurt, cereals and hot dishes cooked to order. Doubles from £238, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Loire Valley For a gourmet rural escape The Loire Valley is one of France’s most rewarding gourmet destinations. Often called the garden of France, it produces an abundance of fresh ingredients so youll be spoilt for choice with local produce to enjoy – from asparagus and goat’s cheese to river fish and seasonal fruit. Wine lovers will have plenty to explore with the region's vineyards too. Between meals, visitors can explore storybook châteaux (and even stay in them, see below), lively markets (perfect for stocking up on all those local goodies) and charming towns that feel refreshingly unhurried compared to more crowded regions. Whether you’re cycling between wineries, lingering over a long lunch by the river or discovering small family-run producers, the Loire Valley offers a slower, more intimate way to experience French gastronomy. Where to stay: Tucked into the sleepy Loire Valley village of Vernou-en-Sologne, La Borde en Sologne Châteaux & Spa is a quietly luxurious countryside retreat, drawing couples and slow-travel seekers with its elegant, unfussy charm and sense of seclusion. Rooms are individually styled, blending traditional features with contemporary comfort. Expect soft linens, muted tones and views across the surrounding woodland or gardens. Some rooms offer baths or private terraces, ideal for a more indulgent stay, while thoughtful touches like locally sourced toiletries and well stocked minibars add to the sense of place. The on-site restaurant, Mémoire, is a highlight, with a seasonal menu rooted in the Loire Valley. Think delicately prepared river fish, garden-led vegetable dishes and refined takes on classic French plates. The wine list leans local, showcasing the region’s crisp whites and lighter reds, while the bar offers a relaxed spot for an apéritif or nightcap. In summer the terraces come into their own, with drinks and light bites served outdoors overlooking the gardens. Breakfast is a generous spread of pastries, fresh breads, local cheeses and preserves, alongside cooked to order eggs and seasonal fruit. Doubles from €220, check availability at booking.com or laborde-sologne.fr South Pigalle, Paris For Parisian patisserie The once overlooked SoPi neighbourhood is now a must-visit for its artisan patisseries, hip bistros and stellar cheese shops. If you're travelling to Paris for the patisserie alone, check out Sébastien Gaudard’s Rue des Martyrs boutique. Whether you want a choux bun, or a jar of crème de marrons (chestnut cream), you'll feel like a child in a sweet shop. They look almost too good to eat, but don't let that stop you. After all those cakes, a coffee might be in order, so stop off at KB Café Shop. After spending time in Sydney, the French owner wanted to bring some Australian influence back to France. It's got a relaxed vibe and the beans are roasted on site so they're as fresh as can be. Flaine For a foodie ski trip Looking for the best French ski trip? Set in the French Alps, Flaine is the ideal base for a weekend spent skiing and indulging in vin chaud and crepes. Restaurant Le Michet is set at a handy spot where many of the runs converge. It’s a place to wallow inside on a cold evening, protected by timber rafters, thick stone walls and central fireplace. If you’re after Savoyard specialities you’ll find everything from tartiflette to home-smoked trout and salmon on the menu but it’s worth experimenting with some of the more unusual dishes; the subtly spiced lentils with coconut milk and black rice (essentially a creamy dhal) is great post-ski fuel. Make sure you take a big enough suitcase to squirrel away some gourmet souvenirs from artisan food store Chez Bolzi on your way home. In the centre of Flaine Forum, close to the tourist office, almost everything it sells comes from within a 50km radius of Flaine; take your pick from reblochon and tome cheeses, Savoie salamis, beer from Brasserie Mont Blanc and Savoie-produced Pinot Noir and Cremant. Where to stay: Make Terminal Neige Totem your base, with its views out on the slopes and outdoor hot tub. The buffet food they offer is much more than your average spread, think plates of charcuterie and cheese, pan-fried seabass as well as fondue. Don’t miss out on the dessert bar – a place to indulge in Nutella mug cakes, made-to-order waffles and homemade bluberry marshmallows. If you need a break from all the skiing, head to one of the street food stalls in Flaine Forum and warm yourself up with hot crepes. Read our full guide to Flaine, here. Bordeaux For a winter getaway This city’s robust signature dishes, rib-sticking entrecôte cooked in red wine, butter, shallots, herbs and bone marrow sauce, confit duck and lamprey, come into their own in winter, and it’s an excellent place to shop for foodie stocking fillers. Each year, Bordeaux’s Allées de Tourny is transformed into a Christmas market with wooden huts and stalls selling local gifts, many of them food-related. Stock up on canelés from Baillardran and don’t miss Maison Darricau for handmade chocolates peppered with honey and spices. Where to stay: Twenty minutes’ drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the epitome of French country chic. There’s a stone manor house at its heart, a small lake, and a hard-working kitchen garden, plus a hamlet-like extension of suites. Great food and wine are the focus at this gastronomic getaway, but even the finest dining (the hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, holds two Michelin stars) is done without fuss. The newer, cabin-like suites (designed to reflect the oyster fishermen’s huts of Cap Ferret, in the nearby Arcachon Basin), with their whitewashed timber walls, retro-influenced furniture and spa-like bathrooms, are the ones to splash out on; in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by frogs as you return to your room along flower- and water-lined pathways. In the mornings, step onto your private terrace and watch carthorses ploughing the vines just outside. The three restaurants at Les Sources have most tastes covered. Celebrate a special occasion with dinner in La Grand’Vigne and enjoy a meal where even the table salts stick in the memory (one of ours, blended with Bordeaux pimento, was the colour of roast peppers). The cheeseboard comes with fresh cottage cheese, from a local dairy, served with a dot of cherry jam. Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Biarritz For a foodie French seaside trip If you’re looking for a French spring getaway, head to Biarritz – a glitzy seaside resort which is the perfect place for cheese lovers. Start off with a visit to Crampotte 30, an old fisherman's hut turned restaurant serving a selection of pintxos. Head to halles-biarritz for a selection of regional produce including dry-cured bayonne ham. Don’t leave before visiting Patisserie Miremont, a confectionary shop that dates back to the 19th century. Order the speciality which is a chocolate mousse cake called Le Beret Basque. Bayonne For a visit to the French capital of chocolate The tranquil city of Bayonne embodies the gastronomic energy of the Basque region, historically famed for its artisanal hams, and as the French capital of chocolate. The legendary Chocolat Cazenave serves up intense bubble-topped ‘sparkling’ hot chocolates in porcelain cups. Chocolaterie Xokola Etxetera specialises in chocolate spreads infused with spicy Espelette pepper, and L’Atelier du Chocolat Bayonne has its iconic Bayonne chocolate shard bouquets. Eat pintxos including jamon croquettes, truffled croque monsieur and Pyrenees milk-fed lamb kebabs at Les Basses Pyrénées bar. Then, for dinner, head to La Brasserie Basa for fish dishes with daily catch from the local village of Saint-Jean-De-Luz, and sweet creations such as buckwheat almond praline choux to finish. Europcamp Domaine de Massereau For a foodie family camping trip Eurocamping is an affordable way to have a family holiday, but Domaine de Massereau promises so much more than just a campsite. The on-site vineyard produces 30,000 bottles a year, and you can sample of few of them on the free one hour-tour and tasting each evening. If you find one you like, stock up as they’re rarely exported. If you want to eat on-site, you can order pizzas fresh from the wood-fired oven or seafood platters piled high with crabs, razor clams and langoustines. Should you wish to explore the local area, head into Sommières – a beautiful French town with shuttered buildings and market squares. Check rates and availability at eurocamp.co.uk More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Nice: where a local eats and drinks in France's chic southern city
From picture-perfect pastries to special occasion dinners, this is where to go in Nice
Looking for the best gourmet spots in Nice? Insider Alexane says: “I grew up in Nice and still live here, so I know the city’s food scene inside out. Nice isn’t just about the views, it’s about the bites! Now working as a food and travel content creator, I spend most of my time discovering new spots, but these are the places I always come back to and the ones I recommend to friends without hesitation. These hidden gems are my favourites and, trust me, once you try them, you’ll be hooked, too.” For more travel inspiration, check out our guides to the best French food trips and the best hotels in Paris. A local’s best restaurants in Nice Grab breakfast at La 36eme Chambre La 36eme Chambre is one of my favourite brunch spots in Nice when I want something a little different. Tucked away near Libération, it’s a small coffee shop that blends French brunch dishes with Japanese and Korean influences – think fluffy pancakes, onigiri and more. I love coming here when I’m craving something comforting but unexpected. @la_36eme_chambre Enjoy a sunny lunch at Le Local Le Local is the kind of place you almost wish you lived next to. It’s relaxed, seasonal and always buzzing with regulars. The menu features Italian-Mediterranean fare and changes often depending on what’s fresh, with simple, generous plates done really well. The pasta is always incredible! I love coming here for a long lunch with a glass of wine on the terrace. @le_local_nice Have a date night at Le Bistrot de Jan If you want classic French bistro vibes with a twist, this is the spot. Just next door to its Michelin-starred big brother, Restaurant JAN, Le Bistrot de Jan feels like dinner at a chic friend’s house. The menu mixes beloved French favourites (tournedos Rossini, sole meunière) with playful nods to chef Jan Hendrik’s South African roots. janonline.com Get French wine at Au Coeur des Terroirs Forget basic wine nights! Au Coeur des Terroirs is one of my favourite places in Nice to actually learn about, taste and geek out over wine. The cute wine bar and shop doubles as a tasting room, where knowledgeable hosts guide you through French terroirs with flights, rare bottles and perfect food pairings. aucoeurdesterroirs.com Head to Pistache for delicious pastries If you think all pastries in France are the same, think again! Pistache proves that neighbourhood bakeries can still surprise you. Everything here is beautifully made, from classic croissants to its signature pistachio-laden delights (hence the name). I usually grab a flaky pastry, then wander toward the port and sit watching the pointus – the colourful, pointed wooden fishing boats that have been a staple of the Côte d’Azur for generations. nicepistache.com Locals’ best-kept secret for pan bagnat If you’re after a real taste of Nice while on the go, Chez Félix is the place. This local favourite is known for some of the city’s best pan bagnat – the classic 'sandwich niçois' of moist bread filled with fresh veg, tuna, eggs and lots of olive oil, all prepared to order. I like to swing by for a lunch that I can grab and take to the park in front to watch the world go by. It’s the closest thing to a local rite of passage in Nice. The cutest coffee shop in Nice Caffè Orso is a charming, Italian-inspired coffee shop and pasticceria that brings a touch of dolce vita to the Riviera. Serving coffee roasted using Italian beans alongside an ever-changing selection of handmade pastries, it’s the perfect spot to relax. Don’t miss the homemade focaccia and baci. caffeorso.com Enjoy fine dining at Le Patio Tucked inside La Pérouse hotel, Le Patio is a gorgeous spot with a terrace set beneath century-old lemon trees, and with sweeping views over the bay. It feels like your very own Riviera hideaway. The menu, crafted by chef Damien Andrews, focuses on refined Mediterranean cuisine with seasonal, sun-soaked flavours. It’s perfect for a special occasion. hotel-la-perouse.com/restaurant-bar-terrasse Italian flair at Apulia Italian food in Nice is not just pizza and gelato – this restaurant truly celebrates the flavours of Puglia, with dishes that are simple, sun-kissed and absolutely delicious. Think: fresh burrata with ripe tomatoes, orecchiette with greens and olive oil and delicious limoncello spritzes. apuliabistro.fr The best French classics at Le Napoléon This old-school brasserie serves hearty favourites like boeuf bourguignon, duck confit and perfectly seared fish, all paired with a great wine list and warm service. It’s the kind of place I bring friends to when they want to try proper French cooking. lenapoleon-nice.fr More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Porto Best restaurants in Malaga Best restaurants in San Sebastian
10 of the prettiest Provence villages worth travelling for this summer
Wander cobbled streets, explore local markets and dine on fresh Provençal cuisine in these pretty villages
For more French travel inspiration, check out our guide to the best French food trips and the best hotels in Paris. 10 of the prettiest Provence villages to visit St Paul de Vence Situated 25 minutes by car from Nice, the cobbled medieval streets of Saint-Paul-de-Vence have been attracting legions of artists, writers and gastronomy lovers for centuries. This picture-perfect village is surrounded by 16th century ramparts, with incredible views overlooking the French Riviera from all angles. La Colombe d’Or is its most iconic culinary establishment – a historic hotel filled with paintings by Picasso and Matisse, who’s chic terrace serves up a menu of Provençal classics executed with panache. Think fresh Niçois hors d’oeuvres, perfectly grilled fish with aioli, and local roasted chicken with gratin dauphinois. Le Tilleul is a more relaxed, well-loved bistro just inside the village gates, serving up an all-day menu of artisanal pastas, seasonal salads and a tea-room menu of delicious crepes and patisserie. Finally, Le Fromager de St Paul is a charming, picturesque spot with an aperitif terrace where you can pick up local artisan cheeses, mountain honeys, saucisson and organic wines to take away. Èze The stunning village of Èze (20 minutes along the coast on the train from Nice) is one of the most unique in Provence as it’s split across two levels – with medieval Èze-Village high up in the hills and Èze-sur-Mer situated along the sea. Its steep stone pathways are excellent for walking, with lots of bijou bistros to discover along the way. Its most famous culinary institution is the two-Michelin starred La Chèvre d’Or – established in 1953 and today headed up by Chef Tom Meyer. The tasting menu features high French gastronomy at its most intricately refined, showcasing ingredients like fermented cherries, veal sweetbreads, fresh pike eggs and Andaliman pepper. Deli' – near the Jardin Exotique – is a brilliant spot for a casual lunch, serving up generously filled baguettes and fresh pizza served alongside tastings of local olive oils. Away from the bustle of tourists is La Campagne, which has a welcoming rustic terrace and specialises in Corsican and Mediterranean dishes that are wood-fire grilled and made with fresh seasonal produce. Sainte Agnes The accolade of being the ‘highest coastal village in Europe’ gives Sainte Agnes a unique edge when it comes to culinary offerings – blending rustic mountainous flavours with influences from the Mediterranean. Located 800m high, its labyrinth of stone streets and balcony views across the lime-stone cliffs of the Med are dramatically beautiful to behold. A 20-minute drive up the winding roads from Menton, traditional dishes from the area include rich mountain-game stews made with rabbit or wild boar and herbs, Swiss chard pies, and sweet tarts filled with local blueberries or figs. Le Righi, near the Maginot Fort, has the best panoramic views in the area, with a menu of dishes like roasted suckling pig, pasta with beef stew, baked trout and zingy lemon tarts. Another great option is the family run Le Saint Yves, whose generously plated menu includes local country pates, homemade courgette pies and a lavender scented crème brûlée. Les Baux de Provence Nestled in the heart of the Alpilles, 1 hour from Marseille, the stunning rural village of Les Baux de Provence is rooted to the world of gastronomy. This is primarily thanks to its prestigious AOP protected olive oil which is cold pressed for 24 hours and has an intense, grassy peppery flavour, along with other specialities like artichokes à la barigoule and local honeys. Le Petit Rocher is a relaxed bistro in the old village that’s carved into the rocks, whose kitchen follows the rhythm of the seasons. Their menu includes Charolais beef, lamb from the Alpilles, organic ice creams and local wines from Vallée des Baux. The romantically cosy Une Table Au Soleil serves up a menu of ingredients sourced within 50km of the village – cooked up into dishes like rack of lamb, stuffed squid and fresh apple tart. Or for something more fancy, the bucolic L'Oustau de Baumanière is a three-Michelin star restaurant serving up an avant garde 10 course menu using hyper local ingredients in a historic Provençal farmhouse setting. Lourmarin One of the prettiest of the Luberon region’s villages, Lourmarin is often cited as being one of the most beautiful in France and is famous for its mix of rustic Provençal traditions with sophisticated contemporary flair. Just under 1 hour from Marseille, locals from across the region travel for its renowned Friday morning market in Boulevard du Rayol and Place Henri Barthélemy, which has seasonal produce in abundance. Browse sun-ripened melons, Cavaillon strawberries, goat cheeses and salty tapenades. Le Champ des Lunes is Lourmarin's must-visit restaurant known for its creative cuisine that uses produce from their restaurant garden. Think pigeon with rosemary, coffee-encrusted fish with Jerusalem artichokes, and candied carrot millefeuille’s for dessert. The more relaxed Le Comptoir serves up a daily changing menu that’s based on the freshest produce of the days harvest, including platters of Corsican charcuterie, Provençal classics like duck confit, and salads filled with wild aromatic herbs and cheeses. Don’t miss La Maison du Gibassier bakery, famous for its firm shortbread made with French olive oil. Gordes The hilltop village of Gordes – situated 1hr 20mins from Marseille – is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful villages in the world. With its high altitude and limestone soil, the village is renowned for its winter truffles, Banon goat cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves and local honeys, all proudly for sale at Gordes Tuesday market, set amidst the village’s renaissance castle. For an authentic taste of the region, try La Trinquette which serves up a modern take on traditional dishes – like their crab and red snapper ravioli, tender lamb chops, stuffed aubergines and well-soaked rum baba. Alternatively, the daily fixed menus at the family-run Restaurant L'Outsider includes inventive dishes like smoked salmon and leek "crème brûlée", slow cooked lamb with rosemary and a triple chocolate fondant. Don’t leave without picking up olive breads, speciality cuculine loaves, orange-blossom scented brioche or strawberry tarts from Le Fournil de Mamie Jeanne – the best artisanal bakery in the village. Ramatuelle Just 15 mins from St Tropez, the village of Ramatuelle mixes rustic Provençal tranquillity with full-on sandy coastal luxury. One of the culinary highlights of the village is Chez Camille, famous for its signature wood-fired bouillabaisse cooked to a family recipe that dates back to 1953. Other menu highlights include their lobster linguine, Provençal calamari and pavlova aux fruits rouges. For a more refined taste of the regions terroir, La Voile serves up the option of a ‘Tout Légumes’ tasting menu featuring dishes like beef heart tomatoes with burrata, saltwater cooked beetroot with cherry chutney and even garden inspired desserts that feature celery. For something more relaxed, but equally refined, head to Saveurs Sincères – a family run establishment that offers the choice of either cozy interior rooms or a stone terrace patio. Their rotating chalk board menu includes dishes like traditional pork meatballs with sage, stuffed squid with prawns and mussels and peanut-praline ganache pie. Gassin One of the most noticeable landmarks in the medieval village of Gassin, 10 minutes from St Tropez, is Place deï Barri – a beautiful scenic square filled with shaded restaurant terraces and stone architecture. The popular Le Pescadou has a surf-and-turf menu with dishes like filleted Mediterranean seabass with sauce vierge, and hand cut steak tartar with summer truffles. After taking a stroll around its narrow-cobbled streets, (including L'Androuno, one of the narrowest streets in the world), check out Gassin market which specialises in sun-ripened tomatoes, artisanal jams and house-made anchovy purées. Alternatively, head to the family-run La Verdoyante who’s shaded terrace with panoramic views is one of the loveliest spots in the village. They serve of a menu of southern gastronomy, with dishes like lamb quasi with herb panisse, vol au vents with mushroom and asparagus, and a molten moelleux au chocolat served with banana ice-cream. Le Casstellet The fortified medieval village of Le Casstellet – 45 minutes from Marseille – balances pastoral Provençal traditions with ultra-luxurious gastronomy, perched above the Bandol AOC vineyards that surround it with timeless views on all sides. Its Saturday morning market is famous for it’s Cadière d'Azur goat cheese and Beausset saffron which come directly from producers, along with anchoïade dips and fougasse breads. The village has many terraced cafés and restaurants which celebrate the finest produce and wines of the region, such as La Farigoule which is known for its wood-fired cooking. The menu includes dishes like rabbit terrines, whole grilled fresh mullet, and a trio of crème brûlée. For something ultra-refined, head to the 3-starred La Table du Castellet headed up by chef Fabien Ferré, where the multi-course tasting menu includes dishes like: squid and marjoram, velvet crab soup, lamb with anchovy, and a cheese-trolley which has an extra-special selection of matured regional cheese from across France. Tourettes sur Loup Also known as ‘The City of Violets’, Tourettes sur Loup – situated 40 minutes from Nice – is an artistic village perched on a rocky spur, filled with quaint vaulted passages, some excellent food and lots of galleries that sell the local speciality violet ice-cream. The refined menu at Le Bistrot Gourmand Clovis offers something a little different – focussing in on one seasonal ingredient, with menu options built around that speciality – be it St Jaque scallops, Bresse poultry or Provençal green asparagus. The charming Le Petit Tourrettan has a ‘home-cooked’ feel and menu of soulful dishes like stuffed petit farcis, octopus with chorizo and classic tarte tatin. And don’t leave without making a visit to Confiserie Florian, where you can sample and buy speciality violet scented chocolates and even violet jams. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2026/04/GettyImages-2177834494-29dfd94.jpg" width="724" height="483" alt="Stone steps leading from a narrow cobblestone alley of picturesque medieval homes in the old town of Tourrettes sur Loup, in the Cote d'Azur region." title="Stone steps leading from a narrow cobblestone alley of picturesque medieval homes in the old town of Tourrettes sur Loup, in the Cote d'Azur region." /> More like this Best European mountain escapes 10 unique walking holidays for food lovers Best health and wellness retreats for foodies 8 US cities to visit that offer spectacular value for money Best European city breaks Best foodie city breaks to visit by train Best English vineyard breaks
Best hotels in Paris for a memorable stay in the French capital
From cosy, characterful hotels with exotic gardens to minimalist spaces with historic open-air swimming pools, these are the must-stay foodie hotels in Paris
Looking for the best hotels in Paris? Want to know which city hotels to book? Our guide to Paris’s best boutique hotels… Feeling enamoured in the city of love? Now find out our best honeymoons for foodies. For more hotel inspiration, check out our best European hidden gem hotels or best Spanish hotels. Best places to stay in Paris Hotel Panache, Grands Boulevards From £108, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com, expedia.co.uk or lastminute.com Hotel Panache in a nutshell A super-chic hotel with 40 bedrooms scattered across seven floors. Why foodies stay here Café Panache occupies the hotel’s ground floor. It serves bistro dishes with a modern twist, including beef tartare with potato sticks, pork belly noodle soup and, for dessert, cookies sandwiched together with ice cream. For lunch, feast on a club sandwich stuffed with fried chicken, cabbage and a Japanese omelette. What are the bedrooms like? Choose from seven sizes, the largest of which are top-floor suites. A consistent colour scheme of light grey, dusty pink and pale blue runs throughout, with filament light bulbs, wicker headboards and old-school telephones adding elegance. The classic single comes with an en-suite shower room, double bed and writing desk, while the family room can sleep up to four people, with a small living space and double sinks. Breakfast Eggs come any way you want, with chunks of cheese, wodges of sourdough and fresh figs on the side. If you want something lighter, order muesli topped with maple syrup. Where to eat and drink nearby Parisian institution, Le Bouillon Chartier, is a two-minute walk away. Join the queue early (it doesn’t take bookings) and prepare for exemplary snails, steak frites and rum babas. From £108, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com, expedia.co.uk or lastminute.com Le Grand Mazarin, Le Marais Doubles from £515, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Le Grand Mazarin in a nutshell With twin inspirations of Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel (hence the purple-clad staff) and Alice in Wonderland, Le Grand Mazarin achieves an impressive feat of being full of eclectic colours and patterns, yet still remaining a chic and calm oasis in the heart of the bustling Le Marais district. Why foodies stay here Hotel bar and restaurant Boubalé (meaning ‘little darling’ in Yiddish) combines Eastern European and Mediterranean flavours. Make sure to look up at the colourful ceiling above you: it may look wooden, but every detail and flower was hand-painted. Share a giant chicken schnitzel and incredibly cheesy spinach risotto, then finish with the signature ‘benimousse’ – a large scoop of rich chocolate mousse topped with a generous drizzle of olive oil and scattering of sea salt. What are the bedrooms like? Originally three buildings (a chocolate shop, a bar and a hotel), the hotel renovation took five years with incredible levels of detail throughout – from the mural in the underground swimming pool to 1,300 hand-painted flowers in the courtyard patio (a hidden oasis just waiting for sunny lunches). There are now 61 rooms and suites, an indoor pool, restaurant, bar, courtyard dining and gym. There is an extraordinary level of detail to discover in every corner of the hotel, including nearly 500 artworks scattered throughout. Bedrooms are decorated with carefully sourced vintage objects, custom rugs and Murano light fittings. Rooms are bold and colourful yet always elegant. Think raspberry pink walls, tapestry canopies over beds and yellow tiles in the bathrooms. Extra touches such as Diptyque toiletries in the waterfall showers and curtains that close from a touch of a button by your bed add a luxurious feel. If you can drag yourself away from the comfy bed or super warm pool, don’t miss the gym with stone vaulted ceilings and chandeliers, surely the prettiest place to work out in the city. Breakfast Served in the colourful surroundings of Boubalé, the central breakfast buffet is laden with croissants, cakes, madeleines and brioche, with butter served in chic mini tins. Hot options, cheese and ham are available too, including an excellent omelette. Don’t miss the warm chocolate chip hazelnut cookies. Where to eat and drink nearby There’s plenty to choose from in the Marais district. A 10-15 minute walk from the hotel, past the Pompidou Centre, is Tekés. Enjoy sharing plates of vegetarian food from fluffy laffa bread and dips to curried gnocchi and unique egg-filled borek pastry. As part of the same group as Boubalé, you’ll find the showstopping benimousse on the menu here, too. Doubles from £515, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Hotel Lutetia, Boulevard Raspail Hotel Lutetia in a nutshell Oozing Parisian style, this is an impossibly handsome Art Nouveau meets Art Deco building on the corner of St Germain’s Boulevard Raspail and Rue de Sèvres. Why foodies stay here The hotel's food and wine credentials owe much to its connection with long-time previous owner champagne house Taittinger. The partnership lives on in its own Cuvée Lutetia, enjoyed in the frescoed Bar Josephine, or with an indulgent brunch of truffled scrambled eggs under the stained glass in salon Le Saint Germain. During Fashion Week Lutetia is home to the great, the good and the famous, its serene Akesha Spa being a major pull. Year round, Brasserie Lutetia provides unequalled people-watching opportunities on its perfectly placed outdoor terrace serving caviar, smoked oysters and lobster with black truffle. What are the rooms like? Luxurious in-room touches – monogrammed pillowcases, lavish fruit plates, chocolate sculptures – speak to its reputation as one of the city’s finest addresses. From €1445. Check rates and availability at hotellutetia.com or booking.com Hotel des Grands Boulevards, Grands Boulevards From £248, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Hotel des Grands Boulevards in a nutshell A gorgeous 18th century grand dame of a building given a glam but sympathetic modern makeover. This 50-bedroom hotel also has an elegant restaurant and a rooftop terrace. Why foodies stay here The third hotel in the Experimental Cocktail Club stable makes sure its food packs a punch. The hotel’s in-house restaurant marries French and Italian country cooking, serving it in a bright airy space, designed around a landscaped courtyard, with a central cocktail bar for pre-dinner tipples. Start with Italian charcuterie and grilled focaccia, or haddock croquettes with romesco sauce, before filling up on plates of pasta (linguine with zucchini, quail with cherries, or monkfish with miso and chards). Desserts are all about fruit: try pistachio biscuits with cherry coulis, or roasted apricot and orange blossom ice cream. Rise to the rooftop for stellar cocktails at The Shed, a small makeshift-style bar hidden among the greenery. Try the Pink Paloma made with tequila, Aperol, grapefruit juice and lime, or order the non-alcoholic East Indian, a sweet concoction of masala chai, lemon juice, maple syrup and ginger beer. What are the bedrooms like? Under the nuanced touch of designer Dorothée Meilichzon there are nods to the hotel’s 18th-century heritage here, including canopy beds (handmade in Brittany) and marble surfaces. But crisp linen, plain-painted walls and a muted three-tone colour scheme add modernity to the mix. Choose between five bedroom sizes, including Petit Boulevard (which sleeps one or two and looks out over the courtyard) and Parisian Eaves, complete with exposed beams and a private terrace. All bedrooms have in-room climate control and a minibar stocked with pre-made cocktails. Breakfast The Parisian come with pastries, fresh juice and a hot drink. Order à la carte for homemade cakes, avocado toast or fresh fruit salads. Teas come from Pascal Hamour. Where to eat and drink nearby For old-school classics - including scallops with cauliflower purée, roast sucking pig with pear, and Grand Marnier soufflé – make your way to Le Pantruche, a 15-minute walk away. From £248, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk The Hoxton, Sentier From £238, check availability at booking.com The Hoxton in a nutshell An elegant 18-century building turned hip hideaway with more than 150 bedrooms and a cosy cocktail bar. Why foodies stay here Rivié offers all-day dining, serving French-inspired dishes with Asian influences. Try cold carrot soup with corn and coconut milk, or share small plates of nori tempura with red cabbage slaw and yuzu tartare. The bavette steak marinated in lemon ginger comes with a peanut sauce and fries or, for something lighter, try a bulgar and broccoli buddha bowl. Sip on natural wines and tuck into cheese plates at casual wine bar Planche, or try Moroccan-inspired drinks and nibbles at the colourful Jacques’ Bar. What are the bedrooms like? Choose from four sizes, starting with Shoebox (the clue’s in the name) then Cosy, Roomy and, the largest of the four, Biggy. Compact Shoebox rooms have parquet flooring, rainfall showers and a selection of books curated by locals, while Roomy promises super-king size beds and roll-top baths. All bedrooms come with a handy neighbourhood guide and light breakfast bag. Breakfast For the full works head to the restaurant and start your day with a banana split served with coconut yogurt, red fruits, peanut butter and bee pollen, or quinoa granola topped with Greek yogurt, orange and blueberries. Avocado fans will love the upgraded toast, which comes topped with smashed avocado, peas, edamame beans, poached eggs and coriander. Where to eat and drink nearby La Guinguette d’Angèle is the perfect spot for a casual lunch. Veggie and gluten-free standouts include lentils on pesto rice with smoked tofu, hummus toast with roast vegetables, and vegan hazelnut cake (you can eat-in or take-away). From £238, check availability at booking.com Hotel Henriette, Croulebarbe From £137, check availability at booking.com Hotel Henriette in a nutshell A family-friendly boutique hotel on the Rive Gauche with 32 individually designed bedrooms and a private courtyard. Why foodies stay here Although there’s no restaurant at the hotel, the central courtyard is a great place to bring back a deli feast while affordable room prices mean more centimes to spend in the city’s restaurants. What are the bedrooms like? All of the bedrooms are decked out with vintage fabrics and flea market finds. Designed by a fashion editor turned hotelier, some boast statement yellow walls and rose gold side tables, while others have tropical wallpaper and pastel linens. Breakfast Breakfast runs to a full continental spread, from cakes and croissants to charcuterie. Where to eat and drink nearby Dip into a nearby Moroccan or contemporary French restaurant, or visit L’Auberge du Roi Gradlon, which specialises in Breton cuisine. The menu at the latter features haddock tart with Roscoff onions, galettes and, for dessert, a Breton speciality called Kouign-amann (swirls of caramelised, buttery parcels) served with salted caramel. From £137, check availability at booking.com L’Hotel, Saint-Germain-des-Pres From £365, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com L'Hotel in a nutshell An opulent and historic five-star hotel, with a charming cocktail bar. What are the bedrooms like? Spread over six floors, the luxurious bedrooms boast lavish furnishings, carefully selected artwork and one-hour private sessions at the hotel’s hammam pool. Mignon bedrooms look out over the Rue de Beaux Arts and come with leopard print wall coverings, chandeliers and ornate wooden headboards. Chic rooms are themed around famous historic characters (including Marco Polo and Mata Hari) and include separate sitting areas plus spacious tiled bathrooms. Oscar Wilde spent his final night at this hotel, and his namesake suite boasts a private leafy terrace. Breakfast Start the day with a continental buffet of pastries, juice and coffee, or made-to-order egg dishes. Detox juices and boozy breakfast mimosas are also available. Where to eat and drink nearby This arty neighbourhood (the famous literary pilgrimage site that is the Café de Flore is just a stone’s throw fro the hotel) is also one of the city’s most well-trodden areas, with the dining scene to match. For the ultimate indulgence head to the blue velvet-lined café run by luxury patisserie Ladurée just around the corner, for lunchtime classics (egg white, spinach and goats cheese omelettes or dainty chicken and mushroom vol au vents) plus exquisite pastries and macarons. From £365, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Molitor, Boulogne-Billancourt From £325, check availability at booking.com Molitor in a nutshell A modern, minimalist hotel with a historic open-air swimming pool. Why foodies stay here The urban brasserie encircles an Art Deco central swimming pool, allowing guests the luxurious pleasure of dipping and dining at the same time. Seasonal, uncomplicated cooking is at its heart, so expect the likes of truffled macaroni with ham and comte, pork belly with apricots and hazelnuts, and raspberry elderflower cheesecake. An elegant bar serves cocktails featuring classic French alcohols, so settle down with a Moli-Taï (grapefruit juice with ginger ale and Rinquinquin) or signature Molitor History X, made from pear vodka, tonic water and Absenteroux vermouth. In the summer months, a rooftop kitchen serves falafels with hummus and tabbouleh, crab salads and cheerful, crowd-pleasing desserts – hot cookies with pecan and vanilla ice cream, for example, or chocolate mousse. What are the bedrooms like? Choose between classic, luxury, executive or suite. Calm classic rooms are decorated in shades of white, grey and beige, with Bose dock stations and views over the pool, while executive rooms come with king-size beds and separate baths. If you want extra luxury, the Grand Suite has a separate lounge area and views over the city. Breakfast A lavish affair that covers all tastes. Go savoury with a “big bun egg” (brioche sandwiches stuffed with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce, plus your choice of bacon, salmon or mushrooms), or choose homemade crêpes decorated with chocolate, honey, caramel or maple syrup. Where to eat and drink nearby For colourful, precision-cooked neighbourhood dining walk book a table at nearby Plantxa, Colombian chef Juan Arbelaez’ Paris bistro. The menu changes each week but typical dishes might include pork with peas and artichoke, cod with girolles and wasabi or a prettily presented red fruit pavlova. From £325, check availability at booking.com Le Pigalle, Pigalle From £257, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Le Pigalle in a nutshell Contemporary design meets homely touches in the cool Pigalle neighbourhood. Why foodies stay here At the hotel’s restaurant, ingredients are sourced from local stores and suppliers to create a simple, seasonal menu. All-day dishes include burrata with sweet basil, smoked salmon toast with burnt lemon, or cheese served with nectarine chutney. Come dinner time, however, sharing plates are the focus: try sweet potato croquettes with spicy yogurt and haricot bean hummus, and green asparagus with citrus dressing. Head to the bar before 9pm for a Roches Rouges aperitif (cassis, Saint Raphaël, white wine and soda), or go for a house-bottled old fashioned cocktail, pepped up with walnut and maple. What are the bedrooms like? All 40 bedrooms mimic the style of Pigalle itself, with themes ranging from historic and decadent to modern, multicultural and musical. Comfortable rather than cluttered, rooms sport second-hand furniture and decorative music and books. Pigalle 17 comes with a separate bathroom, queen-size bed and in-room iPad (complete with personalised music selection), while the Pigalle 35 suite has a turntable, king-size bed and views over Sacré Coeur. Plus there are bunk beds available for families, or guests looking for a dormitory-style experience (neighbouring rooms can be accessed through a shared door). Breakfast Keep things classic with a croissant, or go for a zingy mango, avocado and ginger salad. Avocado toast comes with citrus and cream cheese, or you can order smoked salmon and comte cheese with buttered baguettes. Where to eat and drink nearby Opened by a Frenchman with a soft spot for Sydney, KB Café Shop (the KB stands for ‘kookaburra’) is a cheery, laptop-friendly space where the carrot cake is homemade and the beans are roasted on site. From £257, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Hotel Providence, Strasbourg – Saint-Denis From £219, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com and expedia.co.uk Hotel Providence in a nutshell A 19th-century townhouse converted into a smart 18-bedroom hotel. Why foodies stay here The kitchen has three cooking styles: raw, marinated or cooked over wood-fire. Take a seat in the moody dining room (mahogany wood, leather armchairs and a roaring fire), or on the heated terrace, and start with dinky petits fours – everything from avocado and prawn toasts to tuna rillettes – before moving on to bigger plates. Linguine comes dressed simply with lemon, roasted pine nuts and fresh oregano, while bream ceviche zings with lime and pomegranate. For dessert, keep things classic with tarte tatin or crème brûlée. What are the bedrooms like? Split into five categories (mini, classic, superior, deluxe and suite), the 18 bedrooms are luxurious yet homely, with some sporting their own balconies. Each room comes with its own bespoke cocktail bar, too. Classic rooms are draped in azure-coloured velvet, while the deluxe boasts a separate lounge, upholstered walls and striking mustard-yellow curtains. Breakfast Go low-key with a hot drink, pastry and fresh fruit juice, or help yourself from a buffet of organic yogurts, fresh-from-the-oven madeleines, farmhouse cheeses and fruit salads. Where to eat and drink nearby The Little Red Door is set in the backstreets of Paris’ arty Enfants-Rouge district. Pull up a blue velvet barstool and be seduced by a charismatic, apron-clad team, or sink into a chair on the bar’s more private mezzanine level. From £219, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com and expedia.co.uk Mama Shelter Paris East, Porte de Bagnolet From £126, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Mama Shelter Paris East in a nutshell An affordable hotel, styled by Philippe Starck, that’s one of two sister establishments in Paris. Why foodies stay here The downstairs space is home to a buzzing bar and restaurant serving brunch, lunch and dinner. Sit at long wooden sharing tables and tuck into pizzas topped with fresh cream, onions and bacon, or tomato, burrata and oregano. Bar snacks include plates of charcuterie, vegetable gyozas and focaccia with dips. Or head to the colourful rooftop terrace and share small plates of hummus with lemon confit, sardines in olive oil and stracciatella with cherry tomatoes. What are the rooms like? Take your pick between small, medium, large, XL or XXL. Simple decoration runs throughout -grey walls, white linen, large mirrors and an occasional pop of yellow – while a scattering of more outré touches (masks as bedside lights, the eyes beaming, and pop art murals) are pure Starck). Small bedrooms manage to fit in a double bed, iMac and desk, while large rooms have extra space for lounging. If outdoor space is what you’re after, book XL Mama Terrace, which comes with outdoor space and a living room. Breakfast A brunch buffet includes starters, mains and desserts, so arrive hungry. Start with fresh fruit and cereals before moving on to baked eggs, mini croque monsieurs and smoked salmon. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, tuck into crêpes, almond tarts and Nutella waffles. Where to eat and drink nearby Book ahead for a table at Bistrot Paul Bert. The menu is scribbled on a blackboard and includes indulgent dishes such as scallops with creamed potatoes, veal with mushrooms and a towering Grand Marnier soufflé that easily serves two. From £126, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Hotel Amour, South Pigalle From £139, check availability at amour.hotelamourparis.fr Hotel Amour in a nutshell A characterful 24-bedroom hotel with a surprisingly exotic garden and a stellar brunch offering. Why foodies stay here The brunch is what draws gastro guests. It’s served in a classic bistro, complete with red leather benches and library, and includes croque monsieurs, macaroni gratin, scrambled eggs with bacon and, at weekends, fluffy pancakes. For dinner, try classics such as lentils with bacon and herb vinaigrette, potato dauphinoise, rump steak and chocolate mousse. The covered garden brings a taste of the tropics to Paris, with leafy palm trees shading tables for two. Sit outside in summer and sip martinis, or try one of the house cocktails. Passions Unleashed combines rum, fresh lime juice, passion fruit purée and roast pineapple syrup, while Empire of the Senses is a heady concoction of whisky, toasted sesame syrup, Japanese green tea and bay leaf. What are the rooms like? There are singles, doubles, superiors and duplexes. Single rooms can still sleep two in a queen-size bed, with views over the patio. Doubles come with a bathtub, while the duplex has a mezzanine level (for sleeping) and a separate living area below. Breakfast Go for the full breakfast, where chunky nut-heavy homemade granola comes with yogurt, and baskets of baguettes are served with pots of butter and jam. The freshly squeezed grapefruit juice is a must, and the tea selection includes darjeeling yanki, vanilla rooibos and Japanese hōjicha. Where to eat and drink nearby At Sébastien Gaudard, indulge in caramelised choux buns and rum babas. Or pick up a jar of crème de marrons (chestnut cream) or a packet of candied fruits to take home. From £139, check availability at amour.hotelamourparis.fr More travel guides Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Marseille: where locals eat and drink
Alexandre Mazzia, chef-owner of three Michelin starred AM, shares his picks of where to eat and drink in the Provençal capital and its surrounds
Looking for the best Marseille restaurants? Want to know where to eat in the Southern French city? Marseille local chef Alexandre Mazzia shares his tips for the best restaurants in Marseille, from Marseille Old Port (Vieux Port) to traditional fishing haven Vallon des Auffes and the bohemian Cours Julien area. For more travel inspiration, check out our guides to the best French food trips, the best European city breaks and European hidden gem hotels for special places to stay off the beaten track. Check out our city guides to the best restaurants in Paris, best restaurants in Porto and best restaurants in Berlin for more travel inspiration. Where to eat and drink in Marseille: restaurants, cafés and bars La Boîte à Sardine – for seafood lunches This is Fabien Rugi’s place and it’s always the best spot to taste the region’s fish. It’s small and local, so sit back and enjoy what Fabien has to offer from the day’s catch, including calamari fried with Espelette pepper, red mullet with chickpea fries, sardines with herbs and fresh oysters. laboiteasardine.com AM par Alexandre Mazzia – for Michelin-starred dining My restaurant is tucked away on a residential street in Marseille. The cuisine is influenced by the city’s cosmopolitan side, combining the global influence of spices as well as the daily catch from our local fishermen. The menu is served in sequences of small dishes, which changes daily depending on that morning’s catch and harvest. It is a representation of myself and of Marseille, growing, changing and alive. Provence is known as the Garden of France due to its abundant and magnificent produce from the land, sea and mountains. At my restaurant we like to make the most of the fresh vegetables available locally, such as lettuce, tomatoes and aubergines, in a dish I call la biscotte végétale. alexandre-mazzia.com Patisserie Sylvain Depuichaffray – for millefeuille Join the queue to taste the best millefeuille in the world, including flavours such as green tea and strawberry or passion fruit and dark chocolate. sylvaindepuichaffray.fr Marché La Plaine – for provençal produce Marseille’s markets (such as La Plaine), with their produce and stallholder characters, play an important role in the lives of the city, from Fabien Gardon, a leading sustainable fisherman, to Geoffrey’s fresh herbs and Pistole’s fantastic selection of bonitos. Café de l’Abbaye – for apéro Aperitif or apéro is a common part of the drinking culture in Marseille – coming together over a drink to share stories and how your day was. Pastis, an aniseed-flavoured spirit, is the drink of choice and is deeply rooted in Marseille’s history. Many locals also opt for wine from Provence’s award-winning vineyards. Whatever you choose, the most important thing is to have eye contact when you cheers with ‘santé’. Head to atmospheric Café de l’Abbaye to join locals as they spill out onto the pavement to enjoy apéritifs with a view of the sun setting over the Vieux Port. Go Provençal and pair pastis with spiced chickpea fritters. facebook.com/lecafedelabbaye La Bonne Mère, Didier et Brigitte, Le Tribeca and La Trattoria Del Sud Da Vincenzo – for pizza With time, the city’s food culture has evolved to become trendier and more avant-garde. People want to have more choice and to socialise with a younger crowd, so the city has adapted and modernised. There are a lot more pizza places in Marseille now than when I first moved here, including Didier et Brigitte, Le Tribeca and La Trattoria Del Sud Da Vincenzo. La Bonne Mère is another local favourite, offering simple but flavourful toppings such as anchovies, cherry tomatoes and olives, gorgonzola and ham, or sun-dried tomatoes and pesto. pizzeria-labonnemere.fr Saladin Épices du Monde – for spices Marseille is a cosmopolitan city with influences from North Africa, Central Africa and strong elements of Provence. The city’s boulevards and alleys offer a glimpse into a multicultural tapestry, with Moroccan tea rooms, Tunisian pastry shops, various halal fast-food options and spice shops showcasing a diverse culinary heritage. Stock up on almost every spice imaginable at Noailles district’s Saladin Épices du Monde, including myriad salt and pepper varieties (we counted 46 of the former and more than 50 of the latter), Provençal herb mixes and lavender honey. salaedine-epices-monde.fr/ Chicoulon – for wine At sleek wine shop Chicoulon, Edouard Mireur and his sister Fanny source unique bottles from France and beyond, as well as stocking their own red, white and rosé wines. It’s worth lingering for chef Tomi’s seasonal lunches, served in the shop’s pretty courtyard – think cod with greek yogurt and spiced potatoes, quail with roasted veg and fennel soup. chicoulon.com Fish market – for fresh fish Head to the Vieux Port (old port) – where superyachts bob alongside fishing boats. Here, at the small fish market (8am-1pm daily), species of alien- and not-so-alien-looking fish are sold from the calloused hands of those who caught them early the same morning. Vanille Noire – for ice cream At Vanille Noire get your hands on an almost mythical black ice cream made with vanilla and sea salt. Its maker, Nicolas Decitre, won’t reveal the recipe, but it’s said to get its colouring from algae. Whether that’s true or not, it’s sensational. vanillenoire.com Les Navettes des Accoules – for navettes biscuits At bakery Les Navettes des Accoules try navettes, biscuits shaped like little boats, local to Marseille, that are made without yeast and flavoured with fleur d’orange. You can buy bags of these as well as cucciole – crunchy, wine-scented biscuits from Corsica. les-navettes-des-accoules.com Where to stay in Marseille La Relève This bar is a local institution in the vibrant Endoume district, a great spot to meet friends for an apéro. It makes some pretty amazing cocktails, too. Upstairs it has recently added four compact but very chic rooms. The yellow room has a sunny Provençal feel with mustard-tiled walk-in shower, earthy ceramics and pretty lampshades, while the blue room is designed to reflect the Mediterranean Sea, with blue and terracotta tones, raised vintage bathtub and a chess table. Doubles from £131, check rates and availability at booking.com or larelevemarseille.fr L’Hôtel Maison Montgrand This hotel, café and shop in the Vieux Port makes a great central base for a visit. Sit in its colourful courtyard café and enjoy a gourmet ice lolly from local brand Emki Pop (flavours include autumnal apple and pear with tonka bean) or chef Baptiste Branche’s fresh, seasonal lunches including sea bream ceviche, chicken confit in masala spices and salted caramel Paris-Brest. Doubles from £93, check rates and availability at booking.com or hotel-maison-montgrand.com Day trips from Marseille Les Goudes The coastline surrounding Marseille is home to small fishing villages with traditional fisherman’s huts strung along the shore. I get my fresh fish for the restaurant from Les Goudes. It’s worth the short trip from Marseille to sample incredible fresh seafood and walk along Cap Croisette, where you can swim in the sea. It reminds me of Île de Ré, an island off the west coast of France. It’s where I spent most of my childhood, next to the sea and eating lots of freshly caught fish. Chez Paul serves fabulous fish caught daily, which make the cornerstone of its menu. The food makes you come alive, it feeds your soul and, for me, the nostalgia keeps bringing me back. Bar des Goudes is iconic, from the 100-year old tiled flooring to its owner, Didier Tani. From his voice, to his generosity, to his stories, you know this establishment is founded by a legend, and still delivers the same warmth of familiarity and passion around food as expressed by the man himself. It’s a legendary spot. grandbardesgoudes.fr L'Estaque L’Estaque, a town just west of Marseille, is known for chichis frégis. It’s a French street snack, similar to churros, made from deep-fried yeasted dough and chickpea flour then rolled in sugar. Sticky but worth the effort. Calanques One of the most beautiful parts of the coastline is Calanque de Sormiou as you can see for miles over the Mediterranean Sea, white sand beaches and towering hills. It’s a great place to swim in the clear waters or go for a hike through the landscape. Sormiou has a small number of fisherman’s cabins passed down by generations, which makes it very picturesque. Maison Ferroni at Château de Creissauds A beautiful distillery in the château estate where Guillaume Ferroni draws much of his inspiration from the research he conducts on the history of spirits. He combines this with intense creativity and a constant desire for innovation. Château de Creissauds is a beautiful place to walk around – if you pre-book he’ll guide you through a tasting of some of the spirits they produce. ferroni.shop While you're in Marseille, make sure you try... Bouillabaisse Marseille has an abundance of seafood, and me and my fellow chefs put it in the spotlight in this popular seafood stew. Each is different but often includes monkfish, scorpion fish, spider crab and lobster bubbling away slowly in a saffron and tomato broth. We dish it out at the table and serve with croutons and mayonnaise. Locals eat this dish on a Sunday usually, because it takes such a long time to prepare and is enjoyed as a communal dish after church. Herbes de Provence The region is known for its herb mixes, with the most prevalent being fennel, marjoram, rosemary, tarragon and thyme. Some recipes also include basil, parsley, bay leaves, chervil, sage, oregano, mint and lavender to enhance the flavour of a dish, and give it the extra flavour of Marseille. These herbs go especially well with slow-cooked lamb and tomato tarte tatin. How to get to Marseille Make the most of the generous baggage allowance and travel to Marseille by Eurostar. You can now go direct from London to Marseille on Eurostar in 6 hours, 49 minutes. Single train fares from London St Pancras to Avignon start at £55 (eurostar.com). More info: marseille-tourisme.com and visitprovence.com More travel guides Best restaurants in Prague Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
From wine bars, cocktail lounges and coffee bars to bistros and patisseries, discover where to find the best house-roast cafés du lait, kir royales and Grand Marnier soufflés in the French capital
Planning a weekend away in Paris? Our comprehensive foodie guide to the city of love has everything you need for recommendations of the best places to eat, drink, shop and stay. Looking for the best places to eat in Paris? We've found the best restaurants in Paris, from the best bistros to vegetarian restaurants. Plus, we've got the best patisseries in Paris, coffee shops, cheesemongers and delis to keep you going all day long, with the best bars in Paris to keep you going all night. Check out our full guide to the best hotels in Paris too, with tried-and-tested recommendations for every style and budget. Discover more of our foodie day trips from London by train or browse our best Spanish food trips, best restaurants in Porto and best restaurants in Berlin for more travel inspiration. Jump to: olive's top 10 must-visits for foodies in Paris Where to stay in Paris Local neighbourhood spotlight Best restaurants in Paris Best patisseries in Paris Best food shops in Paris Best bars in Paris Best coffee shops in Paris olive's top 10 must-visits for foodies in Paris We've included insider information about what to order where below, plus plenty more places to visit, but for those who want a quick insight into our favourite spots in the city, here is our pick... For an old school bistro: Le Pantruche For steak frites: Aux Bons Crus For boulangerie treats: Mamiche The must-visit market: Marché des Enfants Rouges For cheese fans: Crémerie Rochechouart For cocktails: Little Red Door For a lazy Sunday brunch: Les Enfant Perdus For picnic supplies: Maison Plisson For a group dinner: Boubalé Where to stay in Paris Le Grand Mazarin, Le Marais Doubles from £515, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk With twin inspirations of Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel (hence the purple-clad staff) and Alice in Wonderland, Le Grand Mazarin achieves an impressive feat of being full of eclectic colours and patterns, yet still remaining a chic and calm oasis in the heart of the bustling Le Marais district. The hotel has 61 rooms and suites, an indoor pool, restaurant, bar, courtyard dining and gym. There is an extraordinary level of detail to discover in every corner of the hotel, including nearly 500 artworks scattered throughout. Bedrooms are decorated with carefully sourced vintage objects, custom rugs and Murano light fittings. Rooms are bold and colourful yet always elegant. Think raspberry pink walls, tapestry canopies over beds and yellow tiles in the bathrooms. Extra touches such as Diptyque toiletries in the waterfall showers and curtains that close from a touch of a button by your bed add a luxurious feel. If you can drag yourself away from the comfy bed or super warm underground pool, don’t miss the gym with stone vaulted ceilings and chandeliers, surely the prettiest place to work out in the city. In the morning, breakfast is served in the colourful surroundings of hotel restaurant Boubalé. The buffet is laden with croissants, cakes, madeleines and brioche, with butter served in chic mini tins. Don’t miss the warm chocolate chip hazelnut cookies. Hotel Panache From £108, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com, expedia.co.uk or lastminute.com Charmingly wonky, with an intriguing jigsaw of room shapes, and super chic, thanks to Dorothée Meilichzon’s textile-led design, Hôtel Panache occupies a wedge-shaped corner of the 9th arrondissement. Spread over seven higgledy-piggledly floors, the hotel’s 40 bedrooms share certain features, such as fancy filament pendant lights, tiled bathrooms, and lots of fabric and colour toning (blues or pinks, depending on the floor). Some individual rooms are decorated with striking wallpaper or metallics, and a few have tiny balconies – not to be sniffed at in summer. Your everyday breakfast spread (not included in the room rate: it’s €18 extra) is an enjoyable offering of viennoiseries, thick yoghurt, hams, cheeses and dried figs, apricots and almonds. We loved the seasonal fruit juices from Provençal producers Kookabarra. At weekends, the popular brunch menu runs from Iberian charcuterie and scrambled eggs to an excellent club sandwich or fish n’ chips, via granola and maple syrup crêpes. Local neighbourhood spotlight: The 11th Weekenders often stick to the single-figure arrondissements but if you’re willing to head slightly further out you’ll find a dynamic foodie hotspot around Charonne Metro in the historically working class 11th arrondissement. Bertrand Grébaut’s rustic, unpretentious fine dining restaurant Septime is the area’s big hitter (book three weeks in advance, or try for a lunchtime table) but if you don’t manage to get a reservation, try Grébaut’s nearby walk-in-only spot, Clamato for sublime seafood. At Le Petit Keller, Kaori Endo serves exciting French/Japanese fusion food (a là mackerel donburi bowls with marinated, poached eggs) served with natural wines, while Mokonuts Cafe and Bakery bakes the best cookies in Paris. Where to stay The handily located Eden Lodge is Paris’ only zero carbon guesthouse and serves a communal organic breakfast in the garden. Doubles from £187, check availability at booking.com Best restaurants in Paris Le Pantruche For an old school bistro Although it opened in 2011, Le Pantruche feels old-school. Slide onto a banquette, unfurl a white napkin, and eat deftly executed classics such as braised ris de veau (sweetbreads), scallops with cauliflower purée, or roast sucking pig with pear, celery and chestnut, followed by Grand Marnier soufflé or cheese from dairy royalty Pascal Beillevaire. The team’s stablemate, nearby Caillebotte, is equally admirable. facebook.com/LePantruche Les Enfant Perdus For a French brunch An elegant Parisian neighbourhood bistro whose vintage wooden bar is lined with liqueurs and a gigantic coffee machine, this is a great place for an aperitif (we’re fans of a Kir Royal), a cocktail (they specialize in juleps) or a leisurely glass of wine (you can also buy bottles to take home from the wine shop across the road). It’s real pull, however, is weekend brunch. Sink into squishy white cushions in the bistro’s conservatory room and enjoy an excellent value (£27 for three courses) brunch menu. Platters of classic goat’s cheese salad, perhaps, or olive and cheese muffins, eggs cocotte, tiny parcels of cheese- and herb-filled pasta and thinly sliced duck breast. Mini viennoiseries, generous baskets of fresh bread and condiments, fruit juice and the house hot chocolate fill any gaps left. les-enfants-perdus.com Aux Bons Crus For steak frites In the heart of the 11ème, Aux Bons Crus stays true to its humble roots. Reserve a gingham-clothed table for hearty bistro dishes: steak-frites with delightfully gloopy bearnaise, Lyonnaise-style quenelles de brochet or tender tête de veau. auxbonscrus.fr Boubalé Even if you don't stay at Le Grand Mazarin hotel, the hotel restaurant Boubalé is worth a visit. The colourful dining room is perfect for a cosy date in the corner or a big group dinner at the round central tables. Meaning 'little darling' in Yiddish, Boubalé combines Mediterranean and Eastern European flavours: expect generous chicken schnitzel, cheesy risotto and a top notch bread selection. Don't miss the signature 'benimousse' dessert of chocolate mousse, olive oil and Maldon salt. boubaleparis.com Judy For nourishing comfort food Winter menus in Paris don’t all major on melted cheese. At St Germain’s uber-chic but daytime-only cantine, Judy, there’s a nourishing spin on seasonality: spiced almond milk hot chocolates, paleo pancakes and sweet potato waffles. judy-paris.com Dilia For Italian flavours Hike up the hill from Ménilmontant to find a seriously inventive Italian tasting menu at Dilia. In a bare-brick dining room, at tables decorated with posies, feast on courgette tortellini or linguini with rascasse then onglet served pink with salsa verde. dilia.fr Best patisseries in Paris Looking for more patisserie recommendations? Author and baker Edd is an expert in patisserie and in this episode of the olive podcast he shares his 10 must-visit shops, plus the best sweet things to sample from each. View oEmbed on the source website Best food shops in Paris Marché des Enfants Rouges Best indoor street market Tucked behind wrought iron gates on the rue de Bretagne, Marché des Enfants Rouges is the oldest covered market in Paris, and a protected historic landmark, having first been founded in 1615. The market takes its name from the former orphanage on whose site it stands (its children wore red jackets) and, having evolved over the centuries, is now both a charmingly haphazard affair and a destination dining hotspot. Aromas of Moroccan, Lebanese, African and Japanese food stalls all mingle here to delicious effect – try fluffly couscous from Le Traiteur Marocain, or crêpes and sandwiches from Chez Alain Miam Miam. marchedesenfantsrougesfr.com Crémerie Rochechouart For new cheese discoveries On the eastern slopes of South Pigalle, Crémerie Rochechouart is an old-fashioned encyclopaedia of a cheese shop, stocking pretty much every style, from obvious to obscure. Pick up some comté (young and nutty or the ultra umami 24-month aged version), or the highly transportable vieille mimolette. Maison Plisson For artisan products There’s no better one-stop shop for picnic provisions than Maison Plisson, France’s answer to Daylesford. The locally sourced produce, cold-pressed juices and array of breads make this a local favourite. Pick up a crunchy country loaf and some tapenade to compose your own sandwich. maisonplisson.com Taka & Vermo For French cheeses Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis hasn’t quite shaken off its seedy past, but change is slowly on the way. Artisan fromager Taka & Vermo is one its shining stars. Stop by this minimalist boutique to stock up on winter classics, perhaps a blue-veined Morbier or Mont d’Or ripe for baking in its box. takavermo.fr/ Ground Control For street food Occupying the ex-industrial Halle Charolais on the edge of the Gare de Lyon, Ground Control’s sprawling community spaces offer everything from yoga classes to street food. Sample dishes from the roster of chefs at La Résidence, run in collaboration with Refugee Food Festival – perhaps Syrian mezze and shawarma followed by riz au lait from project mentor Stéphane Jégo. groundcontrolparis.com Best bars in Paris Little Red Door Best cocktail bar in Paris The team at this cosy bar operate an Evocative Menu; customers are asked to take a leap of faith and choose a cocktail not by preferred ingredients but by image. Appropriately, the Little Red Door is set in the backstreets of Paris’ arty Enfants-Rouge district (in the 3rd arrondissement, the area takes its name from a covered market, Paris’ oldest, which is itself named after an orphanage that once stood on the site) and eleven artists, from tattoo artists to fashion designers and painters, were invited in for cocktails and asked to create a visual representation of the feelings each cocktail evoked. Those collected images now work as an alternative drinks menu, or an interactive picture book for adults if you like, complete with pull-out lists of ingredients if you really don’t like surprises. Sink into a chair on the bar’s more private mezzanine level, or pull up a blue velvet barstool and be seduced by this charismatic, apron-clad team. lrdparis.com Frenchie bar à vins For a smart wine bar During his time at Fifteen restaurant, Nantes-born chef Greg Marchand was nicknamed ‘Frenchie’ by Jamie Oliver. When he set up his own bistro in Paris that was the obvious name for it. Now, having taken the city by storm, Marchand has launched a bar à vins, a Frenchie-to-go spot and a new restaurant Frenchie back in London’s Covent Garden. Our preferred choice is the bar à vins (think wine bar): perch on a bar stool at one of its high wooden tables nestled into exposed-brick alcoves and pair French and international small-batch wines with artisan British cheeses from Neal’s Yard Dairy (yes, Greg has given a big fat nod of approval to the British cheese industry!). frenchie-bav.com Le Renard For affordable cocktails For cool cocktails at cool prices, head to Le Renard (the “fox”), a locals’ spot just back from the Canal St Martin. Try the Chateaurenard with gin, lavender syrup, Suze, lime juice and egg white. animaux.bar/le-renard Best coffee shops in Paris KB Café Shop, South Pigalle When you wake up and smell decent coffee in Paris, there’s often an Antipodean influence. Set up by a Frenchman ‘pining’ after a spell in Sydney, KB Café Shop (the KB is for ‘kooka boora’) is a cheery, laptop-friendly space where the carrot cake is homemade and the beans are roasted on site. kbcafeshop.com Ten Belles Ten Belles is worth heading to just to mooch along the charming neighbourhood street it’s set along. Pop into Bleuet Coquelicot, a teeny convent-turned-florist where greenery, flowers and tropical plants have colonised the building’s 17th-century tiling and murals. Then continue two doors down, to the trendy Ten Belles coffee shop, and perch on one of the funkily painted wooden stools that pepper the pavement outside this narrow, open-fronted café. Enjoy excellent Guatemalan and Honduran coffee, blended at Paris coffee star Thomas Lehoux’s roastery, Brulerie Belleville, with a sausage roll, cheese toastie or a savoury bun studded with cheese and chorizo. tenbelles.com Vegan spots in Paris La Guinguette d’Angèle For a vegan lunch Natural eating never looked (or tasted) as good as it does at La Guinguette d’Angèle. The perfect spot for a casual lunch, eat-in or takeaway veggie and gluten-free standouts include lentils on pesto rice with smoked tofu, hummus toast with roast vegetables and vegan hazelnut cake. Jah Jah by Le Tricycle For vegan salads One of few fully vegan canteens in the city, Jah Jah by Le Tricycle blends reggae vibes with flavourful, rainbow-hued ingredients. Don’t miss the three vegan bowls (they rotate daily) and raw rolls with carrots, beets and papaya and Dakatine peanut dipping sauce -perfectly paired with a bissap-hibiscus tea. jahjahparis.com IMA For middle Eastern food in Paris ‘Mama’ in Hebrew, IMA excels at the kind of bountiful seasonal salads and Middle Eastern dishes that made Ottolenghi’s name: kale and brussels sprouts with hazelnuts and apples, Turkish galettes with za’atar, tomatoes and onion, and refreshing homemade ice teas. ima.paris Café Méricourt For a vegetarian café This is a great vegetarian café in Paris. Equal parts coffee shop and canteen, Café Méricourt draws a crowd for dishes big on flavour and spice. Choose from shakshuka, green eggs with feta, vegetarian congee or granola with a generous helping of seasonal fruit. cafemericourt.com Wild & the Moon For juices The greenery and reclaimed wood tables are a giveaway at Wild & the Moon: plant-focussed and organic are the operative words. The juice and veggie bar serves up spirulina smoothies, avocado wraps and colourful salads (try the twist on tabbouleh, with raw cauliflower, cucumber, mint, chickpeas and pomegranate). wildandthemoon.fr/ How to get to Paris If you want to continue your premium drinking experience right until the end of your trip, book a business Eurostar class ticket back to London and relax in the terminal’s business lounge while you wait to board your train. More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Where to eat, drink and sleep in Arcachon Bay
For a great foodie weekend away in southwest France, head to this beach-fringed bay for fresh-from-the-fishing-shack oysters, legendary mussels and chips, fresh fig ice cream and plates of local charcuterie
Looking for restaurants in Arcachon? Want Arcachon hotels to stay in? Here's our guide to Arcachon Bay, including restaurants near Dune du Pilat, hotels in Cap Ferret, and foodie spots in Corniche. On the windswept, bleached-out Coté d’Argent (silver coast) of southwest France’s Atlantic Coast, less than an hour’s drive southwest of Bordeaux (read our foodie guide here), Arcachon is a stately old seaside resort. It’s also the southern gateway to Arcachon Bay, an oyster-farming basin ringed by fishermen’s shacks – and some very chi chi restaurants, cafes and hotels – that makes for a great foodie weekend. CENTRAL ARCACHON Stroll around Arcachon’s old town and you pass elegant fin de siecle villas, each with names like Margaux or Heloise, as your path weaves in and out of the town’s seafront. Soak up the atmosphere and then stop off at Arcachon’s large covered market (open Tues to Sun) to stock up on peaches, freshly baked pain de campagne, meat, fish or even oysters; there’s also an oyster bar within the market where you can perch on a bar stool and slurp your choice of bivalve (more on those further down) with a glass of local sauvignon. If you want to stay in Arcachon, try Hotel Home, a bastion of rock chick chic with 10 bedrooms, a stylish coffee shop and a lifestyle store in a quieter corner of the town, close to a beach. home-arcachon.com LA CO(O)RNICHE, ARCACHON It’s all about location at this Philippe Starck hotel. One of Arcachon’s greatest claims to fame is its proximity to the Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, and this boutique hotel is best placed to explore it. Right at the very edge of town, surrounded by soaring pine trees, from the beach below the hotel you can walk on to the Dune du Pilat avoiding the vast majority of tourists (the official approach leads visitors in from the other side). Unfortunately, that location is quite hard to take advantage of, however. Book in for lunch expecting your seat on the outdoor terrace to embrace the wrap-around panorama of sea and sand and you’ll be disappointed; brusque staff and a tightly guarded tangle of ropes conspire to cordon it off to anyone except overnight guests. Much more welcoming is the Hotel Ha(a)itza, La Co(o)rniche’s younger sister. Set in a towering, chalet-style building just downhill, towards town, this includes a more formal restaurant, The Skiff Club, as well as a bistro-style Café across the road (an atmospheric space that works as well for a quick bite on the way to the beach as it does for a romantic but unfussy dinner; think steak and tarte tatin). There’s also a pretty tea room and patisserie, decorated in macaron colours and serving one of the best breakfasts in town, if also one of the most expensive (a freshly squeezed grapefruit juice will set you back €9); stick with a seriously good coffee and a freshly baked, sugar-topped brioche and you can’t go far wrong. lacoorniche-pyla.com; haaitza.com OYSTERS AROUND ARCACHON BAY The big local food story is oysters (here's our guide to oysters), which grow especially well in Arcachon Bay thanks to the basin’s tides. There are over 300 oyster farms around the bay, producing up to 10,000 tonnes of oysters a year and the majority are sold and eaten locally. To explore the region’s oyster culture head just out of Arcachon to the east, to a little town called Gujan Mestras, and you’ll find a dedicated oyster museum, the Maison de l’Huitre. Here you can watch a short film about oyster cultivation, seen as an art rather than an industry by many insiders. It’s slow and gruelling work, done in all weathers – and it takes around three years to produce each oyster - but the people who do it see it as a labour of love. If you want to try the fruits of those labours, there are lots of rustic little oyster shacks along the road just behind the museum where you can try them, super-fresh – as well as glasses of local wine – all very reasonably (most also serve prawns so anyone with an oyster allergy, or aversion, doesn’t have to miss out). There are also other little oyster fishing villages on the road around the basin towards Cap Ferret. Le Canon is one of the most famous but my favourite was L’Herbe. It’s marginally harder to reach than the others so it’s slightly less developed and there’s a classic French restaurant there (all gingham tablecloths and accordion music), the Hotel de la Plage, where it’s very easy to while away a sunny afternoon over plates of duck and grilled whole fish – as well as oysters, of course. Make sure you take time to wander through the warren of sandy footpaths that weave between L’Herbe’s wooden fishing huts before you leave; it’s a world away from Arcachon Bay’s glitzier corners. maison-huitre.fr; hoteldelaplage-cap-ferret.fr CHEZ HORTENSE, CAP FERRET RESTAURANT People often mistake Cap Ferret for Cap Ferrat, on the Cote d’Azur, but while Cap Ferret is still pretty glam (especially in high season when its luxury villas are snapped up by well-to-do Parisians and their families) the vibe here is more laid-back than that of its Riviera counterpart. Cap Ferret is also very flat so it’s a relaxed and reasonably quiet place to get around since most people travel by bike, stopping off to look at its famous candy-striped lighthouse – or to eat in one of the lovely waterside restaurants – before hitting its beaches. If you’re in search of more oysters, you’ll want to book in at Chez Boulan, a chic waterside restaurant specialising in a range of different oysters it farms itself (from the tiny aperitive, a cocktail oyster, to the grand Cru – fat and sweet). Like many other visitors, however, I made a beeline to Chez Hortense, at the end of the peninsula. Opened in 1938, this breezy, relaxed seafood restaurant is arguably the best-known in Cap Ferret and I worried it wouldn’t live up to the hype. It did. Friendly staff, simple wooden tables, jaunty bottle green paintwork, a shady vine-framed terrace and sea views (in fact you can see right across the bay to the Dune du Pilat on a clear day) set a relaxed vibe. The food was equally impressive with a short menu that includes oysters (a sister restaurant, the Cabane d’Hortense just down the coast, focuses more explicitly on those), whole grilled turbot and the house speciality, Moules Façon Hortense: moreishly simple with garlic, parsley, olive oil and bacon and served with skinny chips (note that portions are enormous so one is easily enough for two). huitresboulan.fr; Chez Hortense, 26 Avenue du Sémaphore, Cap Ferret (00 33 556 606 256) HOTEL DES PINS, CAP FERRET There are few more romantic places to stay around Arcachon Bay than the 1930s-themed Hotel des Pins. Book one of its 14 antique-peppered bedrooms (or the roulotte for two parked up in the garden), play billiards – or the piano – over a cocktail in the bar then book a table in its glass-framed dining room for a decadent dinner overlooking the gardens; think plates of local oysters; grilled seabass; fillet of beef with a Bordelaise sauce (red wine, bone marrow, shallots, thyme and pepper); and lavender crème brulée. hoteldespins.eu O SORBET D’AMOUR ICE CREAM, ARCACHON BAY This local ice cream company, with its minimalist branding, 12 outlets around southwest France and over 100 (largely seasonal) ice cream and sorbet flavours, may appear every inch the contemporary artisan ice cream maker but there’s real local substance to it, as well as style. O Sorbet d’Amour’s first branch opened in Arcachon in 1935 (then known as Au Cornet d’Amour) and has long had a branch in Cap Ferret, among other destinations around the bay, so it has a deep-rooted history in the area. For tourists without the nostalgic associations, however, it’s all about the flavours, and they’re outstanding. All the basics are covered well but you’re missing out if you don’t try the walnut, blood orange, fig or orange flower water varieties. If you’re seeking a regional sugar hit, try the canelé, inspired by the tiny Bordeaux cakes of the same name. osorbetdamour.fr SAIL FISH CAFÉ, CAP FERRET The closest Cap Ferret gets to Ibiza, in the summer months this cult open-sided, all-day café-bar on Cap Ferret’s main drag, the Boulevard de la Plage, is a prime people-watching spot. A bright and slick, surfer-inspired interior – all white-painted rattan chairs and bright turquoise or poppy-coloured cushions – makes a relaxed spot for breakfast (juices, granolas, patisserie and strong coffee), lunch (sushi, salads and burgers), afternoon tea (loose-leaf teas are served with free little fingers of cake but the desserts are one of the stars of the menu here so it’s worth ordering that strawberry pavlova or lemon sponge too), cocktails or a casual dinner. There’s usually a DJ playing in the evenings, so go with friends and share plates of charcuterie, tempura or sushi over a bottle of Cotes de Gascogne or a few Ferret Ferrets (vodka, Champagne and fresh strawberries) rather than booking in for a demure dinner a deux. @sailfishcafe HOW TO GET TO ARCACHON BAY Return flights from a range of UK airports to Bordeaux cost from around £50 (easyjet.com). Comfortable and good-value double rooms at Hotel Ibis Arcachon La Teste start from £53, room only (accorhotels.com). For more information visit arcachon.com or search for #OliveEatsArcachon Words by Rhiannon Batten Photographs by Rhiannon Batten
Where to eat and drink in Cauterets, France
Read our expert guide to eating in Cauterets, southwest France (a popular location to ski). Expect patisseries, crepes, fresh trout and blueberry tarts in the historic mountain town
Now find out the best hotels in Paris. The Hautes Pyrenees is the France of nostalgia… mountains, meadows, old stone farmhouses and people baking bread in ancient ovens every morning just the way they have for centuries. Amid all of this is Cauterets, a historic spa town graced with belle époque buildings, a glut of independent food shops, fine restaurants and easy access to the slopes (it’s also a brilliant off-the-radar destination for a family ski trip, with a strong snow record and plenty to do off-piste, with or without children in tow). Easily reached by train or plane (Cauterets is a two-hour drive from Toulouse), this part of the Pyrenees – the mountain range that draws a 430km-long, saw-toothed line between the Iberian Peninsula and the rest of Europe – has a distinctly southwest French food scene with pain au chocolats (here called chocolatines), slow-cooked duck casseroles and blueberry tarts all firmly on the menu. Below are some of the best places to try them. The Hotel Lion d’Or, Cauterets Our base during our stay in Cauterets was this quintessential small French hotel with blue shutters, embroidered eiderdowns and a really homely feel (now owned by the fourth generation of the Lasserre family, they welcomed us with a home-cooked gingerbread and orange loaf, homemade marmalade and a jug of fresh lilacs). Though, as a family of four, we stayed in the hotel’s two-bedroom self-catering apartment, just across a little lane from the main building, we had dinner at the hotel’s restaurant one evening. Starting with their homemade blueberry liqueur, served over ice as an aperitif, we then made our way through a creamy vegetable soup, a stellar tartiflette with green salad, pan-fried trout topped with almonds (and served with a side dish made with a kind of savoury semolina spiked with red and green peppers) and homemade meringues with fresh blueberry coulis and whipped cream. Breakfast was no less princely – a buffet of homemade cakes, homemade yoghurts, gateaux myrtille (a local speciality a bit like a giant blueberry muffin), apple and cinnamon compote, homemade jams, eggs, cheeses and ‘merveilles’ (‘wonders’) – little pillow shaped doughnuts dusted with icing sugar and made fresh each morning to Grandmother Lasserre’s special recipe. hotel-cauterets.fr L’Abri du Benques For a decadent dinner out, drive out of town a little way to this smart but relaxed restaurant in a magical waterfall setting on the road to the Pont d’Espagne (one of the big attractions in the area, where you can stride out along a scenic trail though beautiful protected forest to an ancient stone bridge connecting France and Spain). Order chef Julien Canton’s three-course ‘flavours of the southwest’ menu and work your way through elegant plates of local trout cured like gravadlax and served on a salad sprinkled with all sorts of sharp little herbs. Or, ham served with almost caramelised, baked endive and beef served, dramatically, with a little side dish of breadcrumb-topped bone marrow. This is sophisticated food but served without fuss at a reasonable price. benques.com Le Viscos A half hour’s drive down the valley to Saint Savin will bring you to this fine dining restaurant, belonging to a hotel of the same name. Epitomised by classic French cooking and charmingly old-fashioned hospitality, here renowned chef Jean-Pierre Saint-Martin serves dishes such as his take on the local speciality, garbure – his meaty terrine, served with a tiny, pretty, salad is a world away from the conventional rustic duck stew. And if you’re hankering after some of the local Noir de Bigorre (pork from a rare breed that’s endemic to the Pyrenees – see below) you can try it here served as a huge, slightly pink chop topped with crispy ham and served with an ambrosial, creamy morel sauce and a dainty little train of pasta parcels stuffed with truffles. Between our main course and dessert (a pretty-in-pink slice of strawberry cake) Saint-Martin also brought out a tiny cup of what he called violette milkshake, a doll-sized scoop of vanilla ice cream surrounded by a tiny moat of violette, the famous liqueur made around Toulouse that tastes of parma violets. It was delicious. hotel-leviscos.com Les Bains du Rocher There’s a little café on site here selling ice creams, smoothies, coffees and crepes but food isn’t the main reason to visit this elegant spa, in the centre of Cauterets. The Pyrenees are known for their thermal springs and whether you drop in post-hike, post-ski or just because you fancy a dip and a massage you shouldn’t miss the chance to wallow in its naturally warm pools. Especially the outdoor pool, where you can lie back on one of its bubble-jet beds soaking up the crisp mountain air and stunning scenery – and pondering whether to go for a blueberry crepe or a post-swim kir. hotel-leviscos.com Self-catering If you’re self-catering you’ll find everything from independent cheese and charcuterie shops to bakeries, specialist wine stores, an organic grocery, a small market and numerous shops making the berlingots (boiled sweets) that Cauterets has long been associated with. One shop definitely worth visiting is Chez Gillou, a purple-hazed patisserie that does a dedicated line in blueberry treats, from tarts, flans and pies to blueberry gateau basque and its own speciality, tourtes aux myrtille, a mix between a giant blueberry rock bun and a muffin. Le Refuge du Sens is another must-visit. A dainty chocolate shop higher up the same street as the Lion d’Or, it sells delicious Valrhona chocolates, all made in-house, plus a homemade version of Nutella. There are also a couple of tables inside where you can sit and sip a coffee, or one of its rich, spiced hot chocolates. Finally, don’t miss the Sajous Boutique in Argeles-Gazost, just down the valley. Pierre Sajous’ family charcuterie firm is 100 years old this year and has recently opened a new factory in Argeles-Gazost, specialising in porc de bigorre. There, they see pork as a vocation, and have won an appellation d'origine contrôlée (controlled designation of origin) certification – for their dry-cured pork. The company raises two different breed of pigs but the Noir de Bigorre (a rare species, endemic to the Pyrenees) is the most prized. If you’re truly well-prepared you could order a whole Noir de Bigorre ham two years in advance and collect it once it’s been cave-cured for 20-30 months. Otherwise, just visit the on-site shop and stock up on its myriad different pork products – dry-cured belly pork shaped into swirls with red pepper; rare marbled pork ‘steaks’; dry-cured belly rashers (chop or melt a little as fat to cook green beans in); dry-cured ham, cooked hams, ruby red copa, sausages, pates, rillettes, boudin noir, pate with blueberries and all kinds of fresh meat to pick up if you’re self-catering. Family dining We tended to make the most of our apartment’s kitchen and eat in more than out since most restaurants in Cauterets don’t open until at least 7pm; too late for our under-fives. One place that bucked that trend was La Creperie Basque (8 rue Richelieu, 00 33 05 62 92 51 79), two doors up from the hotel, a gorgeously retro spot run by the indefatigable Jeannine and open all day (for slightly more upmarket crepes we also liked the town’s Creperie du Molleau). Other family friendly places to eat in Cauterets include Giovanni Pizzeria (5 rue de la ralliere, 00 33 05 62 92 5780), for simple wood-fired pizzas, the Jardin d’Oh! for soups and gourmet hotdogs and, if you’re visiting in winter, the Restaurant Le Lys (no website) at the top of the cable car that takes skiers from the town to the slopes (a 12-minute ride). The Restaurant Le Lys has recently been renovated in industrial mountain style (think white metal bistro chairs set against timber-clad walls) and makes a great spot to grab lunch or a hot chocolate overlooking the slopes. There’s a nice nod to local cuisine on the menu, too, with a range of local craft beers from nearby Brasserie des Gaves, organic beef burgers from regional farms and a classic confit duck garbure served in miniature cast-iron casserole pots. If your budget doesn’t stretch to eating out the space also includes a large indoor picnic area with tables, chairs, microwaves and panoramic windows looking over snowy peaks. How to get to Cauterets Rhiannon Batten travelled from London to Toulouse via Eurostar (eurostar.com) and TGV (uk.voyages-sncf.com), then hired a car from the station at Toulouse (avis.co.uk). The apartment at the Lion d’Or costs from €800 per week for four people (hotel-cauterets.fr). For more information see cauterets.com and pyrenees-holiday.com. Words | Rhiannon Batten Photographs | Rhiannon Batten
Explore this quieter corner of southern France and you’ll be rewarded with fresh liquorice tisanes, slow-cooked lamb, flaky fougasse filled with anchovies and olives… and gummy bears
Our expert guide to the best restaurants, cafes and bars in the beautiful town of Uzes in southern France. In this authentically French town you will find picholine olives, local asparagus and focaccia-style bread filled with anchovies and olives. Now find out the best hotels in Paris. Slow travel doesn’t get more quintessentially French than puttering down a dirt track fringed with fields of apricots and vines in a Citroën 2CV, the roof down, a Panama-wearing guide at the wheel. I had followed my nose to the Gard, in the Occitane region, on the western edge of Provence, but now that I was here my nose was twitching with sensory overload. Pungent truffles and gummy bears? Just two of the more unusual ingredients on the menu in Uzès, one of those achingly pretty French towns whose Chocolat-style looks make it seem like a Hollywood film set. Indeed, its plane-tree-pricked Place aux Herbes once starred in the Gérard Depardieu movie Cyrano de Bergerac. Uzès is surrounded by truffle plantations and hosts a truffle festival every January, while confectionary giant Haribo opened Le Musée du Bonbon here in 1996. The company is synonymous with the gummy bears invented by German founder Hans Riegel in 1920, but it’s liquorice that is Uzès’ traditional industry. Liquorice has been produced here since the 18th century. Today, spindly liquorice plants line the entrance to the museum and even the air outside is laced with a sugary sweetness. Your ticket comes with a bag of sweets to suck as you wander from room to room learning about the history of sugar and the candy-making process before ‘nosing’ some of the ingredients. Pressing a button releases a puff of vanilla, cacao or liquorice into the air. At the end of the Willy Wonka-style experience there’s a shop where you can stock up on your favourite sweets. This less well-known corner of France is just 40 minutes from Avignon, where you can jump off the Eurostar as it hurtles on to Marseilles. Once here the pace is far more leisurely. The Gard department rolls down to the Mediterranean from the mountains of the Cévennes. Between the two is the garrigue, a landscape of dry, stony soil the colour of peaches pricked with scrubby vegetation and herbs that scent the air with rosemary, thyme and wild mint. The Gard’s larder is well stocked from the honey and chestnuts of the Cévennes to the asparagus and strawberries of the garrigue and tellines, the tiny shellfish found along the coast. The area has no fewer than a dozen AOP/AOC and five PGI products that have gained protection, including beef and rice from the Camargue, olives, olive oil and strawberries from Nîmes, sweet onions from the Cévennes and Pélardon goat’s cheese. Today, Uzès is a honeypot, but until about 50 years ago it was a rundown little town – with potential. The French government designated it a ville d’art et d’histoire and helped to restore the ruined buildings, putting in place strict building regulations and a Farrow & Ball-style colour palette. Parisian restaurateurs and hoteliers soon began to trickle down opening chic b&bs such as boutique hideaway L’Albiousse in an elegant 16th-century townhouse and L’Artemise an old mas (farmhouse) a short walk out of town, its rooms splashed with contemporary art. Tourists are now drawn to the town’s maze of honey-hued alleys lined with art galleries, brocantes and interiors shops. The Gard’s most famous tourist attraction is the Pont du Gard, a World Heritage site and part of the Roman aqueduct that took water from a spring near Uzès to Nîmes and whose three tiers soar over the Gardon river and its dramatic gorge. Uzès itself, however, has its share of sites to tick off including the cathedral of Saint Théodorit with its ornate Romanesque bell tower, the Fenestrelle, the Duke’s palace and the Medieval Garden in the grounds of a ruined château which has around 450 plants, many medicinal, and is a lovely spot to unwind with a liquorice tisane after clambering up the tower’s 100 steps for a sweeping panorama. Uzès also attracts a foodie crowd to its legendary food market held on Saturdays and Wednesdays, specialist shops such as Le 8ème Péché hidden away through an artisan pottery and an underground cellar stocked with local vintages, cookery schools such as Le Pistou and a smattering of picturesque pavement cafés and restaurants. I was spending my first night at La Maison d’Uzès a luxurious Relais & Châteaux hotel in one of the town’s historic buildings. Fittingly, my room, up a winding stone staircase, was named Le Boudoir with its sumptuous red velvet daybed and Rapunzel-like views down onto a tangle of tiny streets. The restaurant, all parquet floors and vibrant velvet chairs, has a Michelin star and its chef, Christophe Ducros, celebrates the Gard’s local produce. Before dinner, however, I wandered down to the Place aux Herbes to sip a glass of rosé outside Terroirs on the square as toddlers chased pigeons under the plane trees. Inside it’s part restaurant part posh grocery, the shelves crammed with artisanal olive oils, terrines and wines. Back at the hotel’s restaurant, La Table d’Uzès, I was seduced by the eight-course tasting menu’s tantalising blank page and took a leap of culinary faith. A dish of local asparagus with slithers of kumquat and salty caviar with an orange vinaigrette was light and zesty. As the lid of the slow-cooked ‘egg onsen with truffles’ was lifted a pungent hit of truffle filled the air while the intense nuttiness and crunch of courgette and chives gave texture to the softly poached egg. Surf ‘n’ soil rather than surf ‘n’ turf seemed to be the ethos of the fish dish, Mediterranean sea bass with wild asparagus and wild morels. The earthy mushrooms added depth without overpowering the delicate fish. The next morning I woke to church bells. It was Saturday and market day. That night I was staying at La Maison d’Ulysse in the little village of Baron, 15 minutes outside Uzès. Owners Guy Toullelan and Gauthier Vandendriesseche restored the 16th-century farmhouse and converted it into a gourmet hotel. They have just launched a series of gastronomic itineraries with guide Florian Stoll in his 2CV incorporating a tour of the market as well as hands-on culinary workshops with New Zealand food writer and chef Peta Mathias featuring seasonal specialities such as pissaladière – an onion, anchovy and black olive tart. The Place aux Herbes was now crowded with stalls piled high with local asparagus and strawberries. I wandered through the aisles with Florian grazing on local Picholine olives and Pélardon goat’s cheese, sampling artisanal olive oils and stocking up on pungent tapenades and garlic confit, a tub of addictively fragrant white spheres. Joining the queue at boulangerie Fougasse d’Uzès we bought fougasse, the local speciality, a hot flaky focaccia-style bread, filled with anchovies and olives. Armed with everything we needed we clambered into the car and set off for a picnic among the grape vines. I spent the rest of the afternoon working off lunch, cycling through the vineyards and climbing up a rocky path to the village’s ruined castle. Afterwards I flopped by the pool in the hotel garden, planted with fig, olive, almond and apricot trees, raspberry, strawberry and redcurrant bushes. There’s also a kitchen garden brimming with tomatoes, aubergines, peppers courgettes, chillies and fresh herbs. Before dinner Guy and Gauthier suggested a visit to their neighbour Claude Gendrot’s organic winery Cressance for a tasting. Claude has 16 hectares of vines, a shed, rusty tractor and a passion for soil. “The soil is more important than the grape.” Picking up a handful of dirt he thrust it under my nose to smell. When he had the choice between buying a shiny new tractor or drafting in two soil experts, he picked the scientists. As the sun began to set, he lined up a handful of bottles on a makeshift table. Burying our noses in the 2015 Rocailles, a white made from vermentino grapes aged in oak, we picked out floral notes and a hint of pepper. His signature red is simply Le Rouge, a single varietal, made using the chenanson grape. “Le Rouge is for pleasure,” he smiled. Clutching a couple of re-corked bottles we headed back for dinner where the hotel’s two young chefs Valérie Lucas from Réunion and Daniel Jarrin Molin from Ecuador dished up a moreish starter of artichokes, egg and turmeric-roasted hazelnuts followed by an unctuous slow-cooked lamb marinated for hours in marsala wine. The next morning was another feast. I tucked into a breakfast of fresh pear and pineapple with a black dusting of vanilla, crêpes smeared with Gauthier’s homemade fig jam and scrambled eggs with chives from the garden. Then a toot of the horn signalled it was time to hit the road again with Florian. You can visit some of the local truffle plantations and in the summer they put on demonstrations. Les Truffières d’Uzès is a 15-hectare plantation owned by Michel Tournayre who walked me through the avenues of oaks talking dogs, demos and his experimentation with Turkish hazelnut trees. There are two seasons: January to March for black truffles and May to July for white truffles. Now was not truffle season, however. He shrugged. Not a whiff of a tuber. At the Paradis olive oil mill my nose was needed again. The Paradis family has been producing cold-pressed olive oil for four generations. The olives grown here are picholine, négrette and bouteillan. First a spoonful of picholine, a smooth golden oil with a hint of green apple. Négrette had notes of hazelnut and artichoke, and a pepperiness. Finally bouteillan, fruity and dense. Bending over the spoon I inhaled deeply: freshly cut grass. One of the scents of summer – although not as intoxicating as sun-baked soil mingling with Mediterranean herbs as you drive down the back roads of southern France in an open-top 2CV. HOW TO DO IT Double rooms at La Maison d’Uzès cost from £128, room only and at La Maison d’Ulysse from £182, b&b. Return fares from London St Pancras to Avignon with Eurostar cost from £99. More info: tourism-occitania.co.uk and gardtourism.com and france.fr Follow Lucy on Twitter and Instagram @lucygillmore and search for #olivetravels Words | Lucy Gillmore Images | Getty, ©Gilles Trillard, ©Christophe Bielsa, Getty, La Maison D'Ulysse, Maura Ebbs
Flaine ski resort, French Alps foodie guide: where to eat and drink
The best places to eat and drink in Flaine, a Bauhaus ski resort in the French Alps that’s an ideal base for a weekend of skiing and ski food
Looking for the best places to eat, drink and sleep in the French Alps? Read on for our Flaine ski resort guide for the best Flaine accommodation and ski chalets, as well as French Alps restaurants for hot chocolates, crepes and fondue. Then check out the best of Scotland's ski resorts. Terminal Neige Totem – best affordable hotel As well as some of the resort’s best ski food, Hotel Terminal Neige Totem has the best position in calm, car-free Flaine. Part of this purpose-built resort – famously designed in ‘brutalist’ Bauhaus style by architect Marcel Breuer in the late 1960s - its picture windows frame wide-angle views of Flaine’s northwest-facing slopes. Slopes that are so close it truly is ski-in, ski-out. Owned by France’s upmarket Sibuet hotels group, this is the first venture in a new, more affordable spin-off hotel brand called Terminal Neige (a second property will open above Chamonix later this summer) – and is a return to form for Flaine, where the vision for Wallpaper-style interiors to bring out the best of Breuer’s bold concrete buildings (actually a beautifully graphic reflection of the limestone-lined bowl in which the resort sits) went dramatically off-piste in the 1980s and ‘90s as mass-market operators moved in. Designed to appeal to winter weekenders as well as dedicated skiers, the hotel is bookable on a b&b basis by the night as well as by the week, half-board (being under 90 minutes’ drive from Geneva airport also helps make it easily weekend-able). In an effort to keep prices down, there are few frills; no minibars in the bedrooms, no fluffy bathrobes, no little boxes of tissues. What there is, apart from those spectacular views (ask for a room on the fourth or fifth floors to make the most of them), are decent bathrooms, plenty of storage space for bulky ski gear and properly great beds. The bedrooms aren’t really the focus here, though. Instead it’s the ground floor, a vast multifunctional space with a bar and lounge area (complete with original Breuer fireplace) at one end, a restaurant in the middle and a ski hire shop and coffee counter at the other. Below these is a small spa, the highlight of which is a wood and steel outdoor hot tub. Catering to the cocktails, craft beer and charcuterie crowd rather than the fine dining set, the décor throughout is fun but cosy, with Native American-inspired woven textiles, sheepskins, a smattering of iconic mid-century furniture and the odd pop of neon. The food reflects the same philosophy, pairing carefully sourced ingredients with playful touches to suit for hungry skiers, couples and families alike. Hang out by the fire with a glass of wine from the owners’ Luberon vineyard, the Domaine de Marie, or a jam jar cocktail (we recommend the Ruby, made with gin, lime juice, raspberry liqueur and cranberry juice). Then take a seat in the restaurant and, when you’re ready, zero in on the buffet. Don’t panic. The word buffet may strike fear into the heart of many food-lovers but they pull it off with flair here; think plates of charcuterie and cheeses, slices of just-cooked rare beef served with a nutmeg-spiked root vegetable gratin or pan-fried seabass with a rich ratatouille and green beans cooked with just the right level of crunch. Home-cooked pizzas, quiches and chips are usually on offer, too, as is fondue. And if you’d rather go a la carte, book in for a long lunch instead; choices include a cocotte of the day (veal comes with a superb side of lemon and blue cheese-spiked polenta). The dessert bar is the real triumph, though. After a day’s skiing you’ve little hope of showing any restraint as a parade of tiny pink praline tarts, dainty Nutella mug cakes, mini lemon meringue pies, broken slabs of chocolate, homemade blueberry marshmallows, made-to-order waffles and frozen yoghurt with myriad DIY toppings are paraded in front of you. If your willpower happens to be as solid as the surrounding mountains there little fruit kebabs, too. Doubles start from £276, check availability at booking.com terminal-neige.com Restaurant Le Michet – best for Savoyard specialities For lunch or dinner in more traditional surroundings this former farmhouse is tucked at one end of Flaine, at a handy spot where most of the runs converge as they descend into the village. Though there’s a sunny terrace it’s a place to wallow inside on a cold evening, protected by timber rafters, thick stone walls and central fireplace. If you’re after Savoyard specialities you’ll find everything from tartiflette to home-smoked trout and salmon on the menu but it’s worth experimenting with some of the more unusual dishes; the subtly spiced lentils with coconut milk and black rice (essentially a creamy dhal) is great post-ski fuel. Or dive in and order a tartiflette burger, a homemade beef patty topped with reblochon cheese, onions, bacon and just a smidgen of cream. It’ll cost you €20 with chips but this is no ordinary burger and there’s more than enough for two. Flaine Forum; 00 33 4 5090 8008 Les Servages d’Armelle – best for rustic dining Not in Flaine itself but in neighbouring Les Carroz d’Araches (ski over to it for lunch, or take a taxi for the 20-minute drive for dinner) this small hotel and restaurant is built with timber from an old farm. It has an authentic log-cabin vibe, the creak and reek of wood, with the odd nod (pony-skin stools in the bar) to the 21st century. The hotel’s long-standing chef, Pascal Flécheau, is originally from the Loire and trained with two of the country’s best chefs: Jean-Claude Garzia and Eric Pras. His menus veer towards hearty mountain cuisine with an inventive modern twist. Think French charolais fillet steak with onion compote, carrot and parsnip mousse and dauphinoise potato, sweetbreads with risotto, cream, parmesan and truffle oil or roast Aveyron lamb with thyme polenta and green asparagus. The rustic restaurant, with chunky wooden tables, roaring fire and spit roast, spills out onto a sunny terrace laid out with designer deckchairs in the snow. It’s the perfect spot to sample some Savoie wines. The local grapes are little known but worth discovering; altesse and jacquère produce aromatic and dry whites and the mondeuse grape fragrantly peppery reds. servages.com Chez Bolzi – best artisan food store Make sure you take a big enough suitcase to squirrel away some gourmet souvenirs from this artisan food store on your way home. In the centre of Flaine Forum, close to the tourist office, almost everything it sells comes from within a 50km radius of Flaine; take your pick from reblochon and tome cheeses, Savoie salamis, beer from Brasserie Mont Blanc and Savoie-produced Pinot Noir and Cremant. Chez Bolzi Le Grain de Sel – best for simple café dining As in most ski resorts, eating out in Flaine isn’t cheap (with so many rental apartments on site the supermarkets do a brisk trade). The trick is working out what’s worth forking out for and what’s not. Which is where this simple café in the centre of the resort comes in. You’re not going to be wowed by the décor or find anything you haven’t seen before on the menu but what it does it does well and almost everything it serves is cooked from scratch; think omelettes of the day with salad or tomme and onion tart. Or, take a tip from the ESF instructors who often pop in for a post-shift drink and order a hot chocolate or a glass of hot Xante, a cognac-based pear liqueur. Flaine Forum; 00 33 4 5018 7443 Le Desert Blanc – best for hot chocolates If you’re what the French call a “ski bar” skier (fair-weather skier) you’ll want to spend your time hopping from one slopeside bar to another grazing your way through coffees, hot chocolates, vin chauds and beers along the way. One of the best places to start out in Flaine is Le Desert Blanc, at the top of the Grandes Platieres lift. As the name suggests, the lift spits you out onto a vast plateau with spectacular views of Mont Blanc, the Aiguille du Midi and various other peaks. Order a hot chocolate and sit out in a deckchair here, drinking in the mountain panorama. While you’re there keep an eye out for the resort’s nature guides. Two days a week during the ski season they’re out on the slopes with telescopes waiting to be flagged down by skiers wanting their help to spot local Ibex, marmottes and the other 40 or so species of wildlife it’s possible to see around Flaine. facebook.com L’Epicéa – best for vin chaud The fact that Flaine’s slopes are northwest-facing means they tend to remain snow-dusted for longer than resorts with south-facing slopes. Having large areas of rock beneath the powder, rather than grass, also helps the snow stick around for longer. This was certainly the case during our visit when snow hadn’t fallen for some time but the cover was still there; the tracks of off-piste skiers in the snow below some chairlifts were so ingrained they looked like elephant hide. This all means that you’re likely to be lucky with snow in Flaine. If you’re not, however, this rustic little chalet is the place to head for. Easy to reach on foot or ski (it’s hidden behind a bank of trees at the cross-roads of the Epicéa and Faust pistes, on a little green run just above the village), it has rustic little wooden tables, a wood-burning stove and a menu of salads, chilli, roast chicken and homemade brownies. When the sun shines its busy outdoor terrace is also a great place for a vin chaud. Along the Epicéa piste; 00 33 45 090 8379 Mobile creperie – best for crepes For a sweet après-ski snack, there are two little street food stalls in Flaine Forum to choose from: one serves crepes and the other waffles. Take your pick then eat it hot as you stroll around the centre of the village admiring the outdoor art gallery; giant sculptures dotted around the resort include works by Picasso, Dubuffet and Vasarely. More info: flaine.com Written by Rhiannon Batten, February 2017