Best restaurants in Milan: where a local eats and drinks in the city
Graze on ossobuco, salads laced with orange, fennel and thyme honey, and scoops of velvety hazelnut gelato in Italy’s design capital
Looking for the best restaurants in Milan? Insider Margaret Scott says: "Milan is one of the most misunderstood cities in Italy. People say to skip it, that it’s not beautiful or that one night is enough. I moved here a year and a half ago, and can’t get enough. It’s one of the best food cities in the world and, beyond the Duomo, there’s so much charm and an energy that defines Milan." Next discover our favourite foodie city breaks by train, the best Italian hotels and the best restaurants in Rome. Best restaurants in Milan Start the day at Signor Lievito A bright Scandinavian-inspired bakery and my favourite place to start the day. It’s small and cosy with wooden tables and some of the best pastries in the city. Come for the cruffin or morning bun, stay for the relaxed vibe. Closed Sundays, so weekday mornings are best. @signor_lievito Grab paninis at Bar Quadronno An absolute Milan staple that feels frozen in time. This charming, slightly chaotic panini spot showcases the city’s signature sandwich, soft yet crisp bread filled with fresh ingredients. My go-to is the Mimi with stracciatella, artichokes and prosciutto. Always buzzing, always worth it. barquadronno.it Have date night at Trippa Milano If you can secure a reservation this is one of the best date night spots in the city. A true Milan institution known for bold nose-to-tail cooking. The parmesan tagliatelle is unforgettable, dare I say life-changing. The space is relaxed, the staff welcoming and the focus is simply on exceptional food. trippamilano.it Drink wine at Bar Paradiso In a city full of great wine bars this is the one I return to most. A red awning, small tables spilling onto the street and a lively, stylish crowd every night of the week. The wine list is excellent and the small plates are just as good. @barparadisomilano Pick up lunch at Panificio Davide Longoni One of Milan’s most respected bakeries, with several locations across the city. The Via Gerolamo Tiraboschi shop is a favourite for locals picking up bread or stopping for lunch. The panini are standout and everything revolves around exceptional baking. A perfect casual stop at any time of day. @panificiodavidelongoni Have a quick dinner at Pizza Stella A fresh take on casual dining, inspired by New York style pizza by the slice. The ingredients are excellent and the space is effortlessly cool. Ideal for a quick dinner or late-night bite. The spicy pepperoni with hot honey is a must, along with whatever the daily special is. @pizzastellamilano Embrace café culture at Pasticceria Cucchi A quintessential Milanese café that works at any time of day. Elegant, timeless and always lively, it’s perfect for coffee, a pastry or an afternoon drink. Come for a cappuccino or stay for a negroni sbagliato. Tucked away and ideal for people watching. pasticceriacucchi.it Book Giacomo Bistrot for special occasion dining Giacomo Bistrot is my go-to for a special occasion. Classic, cosy and slightly glamorous, it captures old-world Milan perfectly. The menu balances traditional dishes with a strong wine focus. Don’t miss the agnolotti del plin or the veal cotoletta. A place to dress up and settle in for the evening. giacomomilano.com Enjoy contemporary fusion at Bentoteca Milano Bentoteca Milano is a sleek, contemporary restaurant blending Japanese and Mediterranean influences. The menu is built around sharing plates, with the option of an omakase-style experience. It’s a fun, energetic spot for a night out with plenty of bars nearby for drinks before or after. bentoteca.com Try classic Milanese dishes at Trattoria Masuelli A historic restaurant dating back to 1921, still run by the Masuelli family. Old-school and full of charm it’s slightly off the beaten path but worth the journey. Come for classic Milanese dishes like ossobuco, risotto and veal cotoletta. This is where I take family and friends when they come to visit. @trattoriamasuelli Have cocktails at San Milano There’s no shortage of cool cocktail bars in Milan but San feels like the coolest kid on the block. The city has fully embraced the listening bar trend and, paired with an exceptional cocktail list that makes the classics feel new again, it’s the perfect place to start or end the night. @san.milano/ More places to eat and drink in Milan Ratanà – for risotto Each plate at Ratanà fuses old-school Milanese food culture with contemporary flair. Chef Cesare Battisti is a carnaroli whisperer, so make sure you order risotto, either a seasonal speciality or “alla Milanese” (with saffron and bone marrow) to go with ossobuco. ratana.it Tipografia Alimentare – for lunch Speciality coffee and artisanal baked goods are available all day at Tipografia Alimentare, while the lunch menu changes weekly, with at least four vegetarian choices. Recent dishes include tacos stuffed with wild Nero di Parma pork belly, Lucca red beans, spring onions, chillies and coriander. tipografiaalimentare.it Crosta – for baked goods Crosta is a bakery, pizzeria and bottega rolled into one. At lunch, try the pillowy pizza alla pala topped with marinara sauce and stracciatella cheese or prosciutto. Dinner is all about the pies: try the fior di latte, sausage and friarielli (greens typical of Campania). @crosta_milano Trippa – for meaty dishes Diego Rossi’s minimal menu at trattoria Trippa might include snails, spleen and horsemeat, and the more familiar gnocchi al ragù; however, the lustrous vitello tonnato (veal with tuna sauce) and crispy slivers of fried tripe are the must-tries. trippamilano.it Pasticceria & Dessert – for sweets and pastries Don’t miss Pasticceria & Dessert, Marcello Rapisardi’s pastry shop in the tranquil Piazzale Bacone. As well as classics like cannoncini (little pastry horns filled with vanilla cream), there are chocolates flavoured with marine plankton, and pâte de fruit in edible bonbon wrappers. pasticceriarapisardi.com Nebbia – for an Italian-style bistro Located on a sleepy street near the Naviglio Pavese, Nebbia melds Italian traditions with French bistronomy. Keep an eye out for risotto with sweet Montoro onions and tart Calabrese bergamot, finished with a sprinkling of dehydrated capers. nebbiamilano.com Gelato Giusto – for gelato Vittoria Bortolazzo puts her Cordon Bleu pastry degree to good use at Gelato Giusto, concocting gourmet gelato from top-quality ingredients. Flavours range from a creamy fior di latte to a velvety Tonda Gentile Romana hazelnut, and there are plenty of vegan choices to boot. If it’s on the list, order a scoop of the refreshing Uva Fragola grape. gelatogiusto.it Rossi & Grassi – for deli products At Rossi & Grassi pack yourself a gourmet picnic from the seductive deli counter (try the lentils with artichoke or arancini), or stock up on artisan cheese, dried porcini and homemade pasta. rg.mi.it La Latteria – for simple cooking Its handful of tables and no reservations can make La Latteria a tricky place to get a seat. But simple is sensational here: bottarga with juicy tomato, plump slices of goose roasted with potato, and a carafe of house wine costs €60 per person. (Mon to Fri only.) 0039 2 659 7653 La Rinascente – for cocktails on the roof Have cocktails on the roof at La Rinascente, a department store with the best Duomo views in town. Drink an Aperol spritz within near-touching distance of the cathedral’s curling gothic spires. Inside, buy this season’s Bialetti Moka Alpina coffee pot, styled to look like an Italian Alpino mountain guard, complete with a neat feather-capped lid. rinascente.it N’Ombra de Vin – for a boozy dinner Under N’Ombra de Vin’s vaulted ceilings eat fish crostini, veal meatballs and burratina salad, plus a bottle from the 1,000-strong list. At weekends, kitsch crooner acts encourage the polished crowd to push plates aside and dance on the tables. nombradevin.it Ponte Rosso – for lunch Lunch at the playfully decorated Ponte Rosso to eat puntarelle (winter chicory) with a punchy anchovy dressing and ‘stinco alla birra’ (beer-marinated ham hock) with Milanese saffron risotto. Find room for a glass of pistachio gelato. trattoriaponterosso.it Enoteca Cotti – for wine At cavernous Enoteca Cotti buy regional Italian wine ranging from a €10 chianti to a 15-year old-Barbaresco for €399. Staying at Antica Locanda Solferino? Make a quick bottle stop; it’s just opposite. enotecacotti.it Da Rita e Antonio – for pre-theatre dinner Tuck into Neapolitan pizza, cotoletta alla Milanese (breaded veal cutlet) and a carafe of house for around €30 per head at Da Rita e Antonio. This is the perfect pre- or post-theatre dinner spot; Teatro dal Verme is next door, a more affordable experience than La Scala. 0039 2 875 579 More travel guides Best restaurants in Nice Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best restaurants in Porto Best restaurants in San Sebastian
Best restaurants in Antwerp: where a local chef eats and drinks
Belgian beers and gourmet frites, exquisite chocolates and locally-grown vegetables, find out where the locals eat and drink in this hip Belgian city
Looking for Antwerp restaurants? Antwerp, Belgium’s cosmopolitan port-side city, known as a diamond brokering hub, is also one of Europe’s leading art and design centres, and has a thriving food scene. Local chef Viki Geunes runs the three Michelin starred Zilte in Antwerp. He says: "Antwerp has always had a magnetic effect on me: when Gitte, my daughter, was born, my wife Viviane and I would spend so many Monday afternoons together, the three of us, in the city. Time to talk, to discover new restaurants, to enjoy great food and each other's company. When the opportunity came to move Zilte to the MAS Museum, it was impossible to think twice. It's a place I keep enjoying and discovering day after day, and the position we are in, on top of such an incredible building, with the view and the landscape that continue to inspire us." Here he shares his picks of the best places to eat and drink in the city. For more local city guides, check out our picks of the best restaurants in Nice, San Sebastián and Amsterdam. Best places to eat and drink in Antwerp Escape the bustle at Salon de Thé Claude Tucked away in a romantic alley in the city centre, this charming spot is perfect for escaping the bustle. In the morning, Claude's signature breakfast comprises croissants, a boiled egg, ham, cheese, salmon and fresh fruit. For that extra touch there's also a champagne option. In the afternoon, enjoy a quiet tea with beautifully crafted pastries, including freshly baked scones. salondetheclaude.be Get a coffee at Et Claire The interior is so chic that you'll want to stay for a second coffee: a proper boutique of viennoiserie. Don't skip the croissants (there are quite a few varieties to choose from), they are too good to miss. et-claire.com The best breakfast at Botanic Sanctuary The most elaborate and detailed breakfast experience in Antwerp can be found at this five-star hotel – an oasis of calm right in the heart of the city and Antwerp's first member of Leading Hotels of the World. The carefully curated historic setting meets, as the name itself suggests, a harmonious space of comfort and luxury. The Catalpa is the dedicated room for the Botanic Breakfast Experience: natural sunlight greets you at the start of a truly proper morning foodie experience. botanicantwerp.be/gastronomy/breakfast-experience/ <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2026/04/Botanic-Antwerp-6d1bd4e.jpg" width="8272" height="5514" alt="Hugo Thomassen Photographer ©M + 31 620134536 I Website I Instagram Member of Dupho photographers Amsterdam Photos sent via e-mail are legally protected and may not be used without permission or printed for any purpose what so ever. The permission to publish photographs must be sent in writing or via e-mail confirmation to the sender To all legal relations HugoThomassen, the General Conditions of Dupho photographers Amsterdam apply, on deposit at the Amsterdam District Court under number 78/2005. Applicability of the general conditions of the other party is hereby expressly rejected. This photo and any associated attachments cannot be deemed as legally binding under any circumstances. This photo is intended for the exclusive use of the person(s) mentioned as recipient(s) and contains personal and confidential information. Directly or indirectly copying, disclosing, distributing, printing, publicising and/or in any way using this photo or any part there of by any means is strictly prohibited if you are not the intended recipient(s). If you have received this photo, please notify the sender and delete this photo from your system immediately. If you are in doubt regarding the correctness and/or completeness of this photo, please contact Hugo Thomassen. Hugo Thomassen info@hugothomassen.eu www.hugothomassen.eu M0031 620134536" title="Botanic Antwerp" /> Head to Bistrot L'Îlot for lunch This Parisian-inspired bistro – with influences from neighbouring Italy and Austria too – is located in the 't Eilandje neighbourhood, just like Zilte. Enjoy a casual lunch in this cosy restaurant, without sacrificing on a good glass of wine. Tip: if you’re in a hurry there is also L'îlot to Go, a takeaway concept with excellent sandwiches. bistrotlilot.be Relax for lunch at Cobra House This is the newest location of the Cobra family, situated inside a historic pastor’s house in Markgrave district and complete with a big garden. The beautiful interior décor gives an instant Paris vibe to set the mood. Enjoy easy-going dishes made with top-quality ingredients: the à la carte opens with pizzettes, moves through a selection of pasta dishes and on to meat and seafood mains, all served by the ever-friendly crew. cobra-antwerp.com/cobra-house/ Sip cocktails at Bar Burbure This is the best cocktail bar in Antwerp to enjoy signature drinks – such as the Apple Martini, Hemingway Daiquiri and Not So Old Cuban – in a sophisticated setting. The menu features monthly specials alongside Bar Burbure's Legacy cocktails. Tijn, Sander and their team bring impeccable service, with great care and attention to detail. barburbure.be Have a glass of wine at Goddaard Located on the most beautiful square in Antwerp (in the historic heart of the city, in a building dating back to 1505), the wine list here is truly one of a kind. It has one of the largest wine cellars in Antwerp. Only open on Fridays and Saturdays but absolutely worth planning around. wijnbistrogoddaard.be Try Soixante for Polish cuisine Polish chef Jakub Blogowski honours his roots with a creative take on Polish cuisine, offering something unique and refreshing in Antwerp's casual dining scene. Seasonal and ingredient-focused. soixanteantwerp.be Pick up pastries at Domestic Bakery With one of its locations within walking distance of my home it's a personal tradition to pick up croissants and bread to start off the weekend. Founders Julien and Sophie Burlat care deeply about using ancient grains and it shows: the products are genuine, fragrant and delicious. domestic-bakkerij.be Book a special meal at The Jane It recently moved to a new location with a fresh aesthetic – a brutalist style that somehow never feels cold. Lunch or dinner in an intimate setting, with all tables facing the open kitchen at the centre. The perfect spot for a special occasion. thejaneantwerp.com Spend time exploring Antwerp's Chinatown Antwerp's Chinatown is located near Central Station, where you'll find a mix of restaurants and grocery stores. Don't expect polished, styled interiors, but that's not why you're here. This is the place for authentic Asian cuisine, and Fong Mei and Ni Shifu are two of my personal favourites. Make sure you try traditional Belgian cuisine Without any question, Au Vieux Port and Marcel are among my favourite restaurants. Both are located within walking distance of Zilte – convenient, I know. With their classic French restaurant settings they offer the finest representation of traditional Belgian-French cuisine, paired with excellent wine lists. More places to eat and drink in Antwerp from the olive team De Muze De Muze has been going since the 1960s and has a distinguished reputation amongst Antwerp’s jazz lovers and beer drinkers. Sprawled over three floors, spiral staircases twist up through the brick-lined, barn-like space where you can find little balconies to perch on and catch a glimpse of the stage below. De Muze has a very approachable, laid-back crowd, with not an ounce of the snobbery that some jazz bars have. Musicians rest their Belgian beers on the speakers, piano and bar and take sips between jams, while locals and tourists alike tap their toes to the grooves. jazzcafedemuze.be Normo Coffee This pretty, tiled coffee shop, on the corner of a cobbled square, is popular among local coffee aficionados. Why? Because it’s jam-packed with geeky coffee equipment, from a large black Marzocco Strada espresso machine to a slick table-top grinder. Five V60 filters are lined up along one side of the coffee counter, balanced on copper pipes, ready to brew smooth filter coffees. If you’ve had too much caffeine that day, try a refreshing ginger lemonade for something punchy and uplifting. The shabby-chic vibe (uncovered brick walls, mismatched repurposed tiles, large sharing tables) lends itself to kicking back for a couple of hours with an espresso, filter coffee or flat white. normocoffee.be Café de Kat We loved the laid-back calm in this old-style, mustard-tiled Belgian café bar. Founded in 1912, it has been passed down through three generations of women. Don’t expect anything too fancy: visiting here is all about stepping back in time, enjoying Belgian beers on tap (De Koninck and a dark ale brewed by monks) and listening to jazz crackling through the tin speakers. Sit back against panelled, mirrored walls on a battered leather banquette along the back with a vista of buzzy daily life outside and a slice of old times inside. @cafedekat Frites Atelier Considering the country’s reputation for frites, it seems a bit odd that one of the most talked about ‘frituur’ in Antwerp actually comes from Amsterdam. However, when the frites are this golden and crisp (like perfect roast potatoes) it doesn’t matter that they may not be traditionally Flemish. Watch the chefs pour bowls of freshly fried golden chips and assemble gourmet toppings. These include traditional Flemish beef stew slow-cooked in brown beer and sprinkled with pickled mustard seeds, or sweet and nutty mimolette cheese with truffle mayo. Choose from five varieties of mayo, from classic to curry to Béarnaise. This frituur is also much more upmarket than some of the city’s more traditional chip shops, with huge marble counters, a giant mosaic logo embedded into the wooden floorboards, and marble sauce decanters fitted with gold taps. Stand round a high table outside or, if you’re lucky, bag one of the banquettes to sit round one of the handful of tables inside. fritesatelieramsterdam.com The Chocolate Line The grand palace that this chocolatier is housed in gives Belgium’s most famous product the reverence it deserves. Tucked away off Antwerp’s main shopping street, the Meir, The Chocolate Line is a chocolate shop and working chocolate factory. Pick from cabinets of jewel-like treats, from traditional pralines to more unusual chocolates (try the sake-infused chocolate). Don’t leave without paying a visit to the chocolate lab at the back, where liquid chocolate is poured into moulds and crafted to form elaborate statues. thechocolateline.be De Koninck Brewery If you want a taste of Belgian beer during your stay in Antwerp, De Koninck Brewery is a must. Their interactive tour is fun and informative. Sip on samples of De Koninck’s brews (including its signature Bolleke Koninck beer) as you learn about the blends through sight, smell and sound. Make sure you factor in time to enjoy the smart tasting tray of beers in the bar at the end, and visit Van Tricht, the on-site cheesemonger, to try the creamiest Belgian cheeses. dekoninck.be Tinsel This tiny spot near the museum district is a lesson in how to do ‘homemade’ well. The counter at the back heaves with freshly made biscuits, conserves and little bottles of iced ginger tea, with brown paper bags of homemade cinnamon-y granola to take away. If you’d prefer to stay put, bag a spot at the wooden sharing table, hop onto a stool in the window or sink into a wicker chair in the pretty plant-filled alcove to enjoy a lazy brunch. Try scrambled eggs with roast red peppers, pumpkin seeds, feta and smoked paprika with homemade bread, or overnight chia oats with orange marmalade, cardamom and pistachios with a booster ginger spice shot. Tinsel allows vegan dishes to shine, from pickled carrots on toast with spicy red pepper hummus, to roast pumpkin and parsnip salad with kale and parsnip dressing, and even vegan French toast with grilled pears, roasted hazelnuts and maple. tinsel.be Dellafille Dellafaille has been baking for 80 years and counting. Pop in to this corner patisserie and bakery to pick up perfect little cakes and pastries – mini javanais sponge cakes with layers of almond sponge and coffee buttercream with thick chocolate ganache topping, intricate lemon meinrgue pie towers, or crisp pastries (chocoladebroodje pain au chocolats, apple turnovers and donut-like boule de berlin) to accompany your coffee. Do like the trendy Zuid locals and enjoy them sitting up at the marble counter. There are blocks of Belgium’s famous cinnamon-y speculaas biscuits, and cellophane ribbon-tied versions, to take home as edible souvenirs. They even have eight types of Belgian pistolets in different shapes and sizes (tiger pistolet, black forest dark rye studded with seedsm elongated Parisienne, and poppyseed to name a few). dellafaille.net Fiskebar This neighbourhood spot, on Marnixplaats roundabout in Het Zuid, is very popular among locals, selling itself as a light and bright corner room that’s part-living room part-restaurant. The building’s former life as a fishmongers manifests itself in the white tiles, a chalkboard running along the top of the walls, and a poster educating diners on the various species of fish. Calamari to ceviche of sea bream, shellfish to sole, there are plenty of platters to choose from, along with appetisers of periwinkles and North Sea shrimp, and smart plates of fresh fish adorned with flowers and piped potato purée. Locals head here for the bouillabaisse, a huge portion of tomato-based broth filled with generous chunks of sea bream, sea bass and cod along with razor clams and mussels. Pop in to chic Osterbar (oyster bar) next door for a round of oysters if you can’t stop for long. fiskebar.be Buchbar Pigs and farmyard scenes on the tiles skirting the top of the walls are a subtle nod to this small bookshop/café’s former life as a butchers in the 1940s. The owners had to leave during the war, and the shop is now a gallery where the owners curate books, stationery and postcards. Shelves are lined with bright and colourful memorabilia – a blow-up parrot, table tennis bats, plants. Try a De Drie Wilgen organic juice, made in a town 20km outside Antwerp from freshly pressed apples and beetroot. Delve further into the back of the shop to the bright yellow café alcove and enjoy coffee and homemade cakes (wild berry crumble tart, gluten-free pear, almond and polenta cake). buchbar.be Where to stay in Antwerp – Hotel Pilar Looking for a great-value Antwerp hotel? This neighbourhood restaurant, bar and boutique hotel, on one of Zuid’s most lively squares, is a lesson in contemporary design. The rooms all boast unique features – from the ‘classic’ room’s concrete ceiling and black freestanding bath, to the ‘gold’ room’s namesake gold wall behind the bed (plus it has a green-tiled bath fit for a mermaid), and the ‘eco’ room’s many textures, including earthy walls, wooden floorboards on the ceiling, and a wooden bathtub. Terrace suites have private balconies where you can watch the sunset. Homely touches are evident in each room, from the hotel’s bespoke wool blankets in intense greens and blues, to Le Labo Santal 33 bath products, and coffee machines for early morning wake ups. Hotel Pilar’s food bar spans the whole of the ground floor, and is dominated by a huge counter where cocktails, coffees and breakfasts are prepared. Elsewhere, little seating areas are dotted around, including a squishy sofa area tucked behind banana plants, and a cushioned bench and tables clinging to a wall lined with mirrors in funky frames. Breakfast at Hotel Pilar is a choice of three smart breakfast plates – we tried ‘le fish’ with smoked salmon, fresh bread, whipped ricotta and soft boiled egg, but there’s also the more traditional continental ‘pilar’ with croissants, cheese and meats, and a healthy granola breakfast. All come with a fresh juice and your choice of hot drink, served in earthy ceramic mugs. hotelpilar.be How to get to Antwerp Hop on the Eurostar at London St Pancras and pull in three hours later, via a quick change in Brussels, to Antwerp’s stunning art nouveau railway station, Central. Return fares start from £70 (eurostar.com). Photographs and words by Alex Crossley Photographs: Lennert Deprettere, Piet de Kersgieter, Frederik Vereruysse, Christian Kober/Getty images More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Porto Best restaurants in Malaga Best restaurants in San Sebastian
Looking for places to visit in France? Check out our top French food trips and take a spin around olive groves Uzes, relax in luxury in Provence or sample patisserie in Paris
Looking for the best food trips to take in France? Check out our guide to the best places across the country to eat and drink, from hearty ski food in the French Alps to undiscovered corners of Provence. For more French inspiration, check out our picks of the best hotels in Paris and foodie guide to Lyon, then hop across the border with our guide to the best Spanish food trips or further afield with our best Morocco food trips. 17 best French food trips Uzes For chocolat-style villages Pungent truffles and gummy bears? Just two of the more unusual ingredients on the menu in Uzès, one of those achingly pretty French towns whose Chocolat-style looks make it seem like a Hollywood film set. Indeed, its plane-tree-pricked Place aux Herbes once starred in the Gérard Depardieu movie Cyrano de Bergerac. Uzès is surrounded by truffle plantations and hosts a truffle festival every January, while confectionary giant Haribo opened Le Musée du Bonbon here in 1996. The company is synonymous with the gummy bears invented by German founder Hans Riegel in 1920. Your ticket comes with a bag of sweets to suck as you wander from room to room learning about the history of sugar and the candy-making process before ‘nosing’ some of the ingredients. Pressing a button releases a puff of vanilla, cacao or liquorice into the air. This less well-known corner of France is just 40 minutes from Avignon, where you can jump off the Eurostar as it hurtles on to Marseilles. Once here the pace is far more leisurely. Uzès has its share of sites to tick off including the cathedral of Saint Théodorit with its ornate Romanesque bell tower, the Fenestrelle, the Duke’s palace and the Medieval Garden in the grounds of a ruined château which has around 450 plants, many medicinal, and is a lovely spot to unwind with a liquorice tisane after clambering up the tower’s 100 steps for a sweeping panorama. Be sure to visit Uzès on a Wednesday or Saturday when you’ll find a food market in full swing. And don't miss a visit to Boulangerie Fougasse d’Uzès where you can buy fougasse filled with anchovies and olives. Where to stay: spend the night at boutique hotel La Maison d'Uzes set in a listed building the heart of the old town. The hotel restaurant, all parquet floors and vibrant velvet chairs, serves modern French dishes and local specialities, and the hotel has a spa, Roman baths and hammam. Doubles from £255, check availability at booking.com Provence For luxury relaxation Head to Provence to explore pretty villages, ancient vineyards and historical cities. Hike up Mount Ventoux, head to a wine-tasting at Cheateau Pesquie (and enjoy picnic in the pretty garden) or visit the idyllic village of L'Isle Sur-La-Sorgue on market day for antiques, bountiful fresh produce and lavender souvenirs to take home. The pretty walled city of Avignon is perfect for soaking up some history. Where to stay: Hilltop village Crillon Le Brave is a vision of Provençal style; a clutch of honey-hued, pastel-shuttered houses surrounded by slopes carpeted with olive groves and vineyards. The top of the village is now the effortlessly elegant five-star Hotel Crillon Le Brave. The highlight has to be the 180-degree views of unspoilt rolling countryside, vineyards, olive groves and Mount Ventoux. Made of nine houses linked together by the village streets, the 34 rooms are stylishly decorated in soothing neutral tones with Diptyque products in every bathroom. After a day of exploring, return to the hotel for dinner on the terrace at La Table du Ventoux. Admire the panoramic views whilst dining on seasonal French cuisine – expect local asparagus in spring and strawberries in summer. Spend your time playing boules in the terraced garden, relaxing by the pool the or having a massage in the tiny spa set in atmospheric ancient vaulted stables. Should you be able to tear yourself away from the hotel, borrow e-bikes to explore through fields and tiny villages. Doubles from £408, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Cognac For brandy, vineyards and medieval towns In southwestern France the Cognac region – birthplace of the world-famous grape brandy – is a rural one of rolling hills laced with vineyards and pristine medieval towns. It’s an area ripe for exploration, speckled with distilleries and cognac houses, many of which you can visit, from river boat rides and VR tours at Hennessy to intimate private dinners at Delamain, cocktail mixing at Château Montifaud and, of course, cognac tastings galore – sip neat or copy the locals and mix with tonic water. Many producers also use cognac to make a fortified wine, pineau des charentes, which makes a deliciously fruity aperitif. The town of Cognac is where some of the biggest cognac brands are located and makes a great base for exploration. Its quiet cobbled streets, full of medieval and 18th-century architecture, as well as the quay-lined Charente river, are perfect for walking off cognac tastings. It's also where you’ll find buzzy, industrial-chic Poulpette which has a counter lined with natural wines and a roster of pared-back seasonal plates. Or, further afield, head to Montendre for lunch at La Quincaillerie, an ironmonger turned restaurant with a classic French menu (don’t miss the cheese tray). Where to stay: In the heart of Cognac, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa is a 19th-century cognac house turned five-star retreat, a seamless fusion of period architecture with modern glass structures. Interiors cocoon you in buttery neutrals, and rooms come stocked with French toiletries and madeleines on arrival. Book a junior suite on the upper floor of the original 19th-century part of the hotel, which comes with exposed wooden beams. The Michelin-starred Les Foudres, in the old ageing cellar, serves tasting menus that ripple with seasonal, local produce, while the more casual La Distillerie serves classic Gallic fare as well as a majestic breakfast buffet that includes fresh breads and pastries, eggs cooked to order and pain perdu. From €265 per room, check availability at chaismonnethotel.com and booking.com. Lille For a gourmet city break Close to the Belgian border, Lille is but 1 hour 22 minutes on the Eurostar from London, and one of northern France’s undiscovered culinary gems. It has traditional Flemish estaminet restaurants like Estaminet La Ch’Tite Brigitte, which serves regional classics like carbonnade beef stew in beer, leek flamiche and escargot in maroilles cheese in an eclectic setting. Krevette is a stylish contemporary seafood bistrot serving the freshest local catch in dishes like breaded sardines with oyster mayonnaise and St Jacques with BBQ brown butter. Méert is a Lille institution famous for its pastel patisserie and caramel-filled waffles. Grand Scène is a colourful, neon-lit street-food market hall with 10 stands serving global specialities like tacos, bao, gyros and duck burgers. Finally, BierBuik is a trendy pink-tiled craft brew pub that also serves modern takes on Lille tavern dishes, including moules, crêpes, and some of the best frites in town. Bonnelles For a peaceful countryside escape Bonnelles is the idyllic setting to switch off, get outdoors and reset for a weekend. It’s a huge expanse of countryside just a short drive from Paris but it seems a world away from city life. Explore the protected Haute Vallée de Chevreuse Regional Natural Park or the Bonnelles Ponds nature reserve for serene walks. Le Barn is a must-visit for horse lovers, as it shares grounds with prestigious horsemanship school Haras de la Cense and is now offering a Horse Whisperer’s Experience for guests on Sundays. The two-and-a-half-hour experience introduces you to a horse, their training and behaviours, then gives you the chance to try out what you’ve learned at the lunge ring alongside an expert trainer. The venue is a popular retreat for Parisians looking to switch off from city life and is just as easily accessible from the UK, being just a 45-minute drive from Paris Orly airport. It champions local food, with a vast kitchen garden that provides a lot of the fruit and veg for the daily changing restaurant menu, designed by the head chef according to what’s in season. Other French classics, like award-winning cheese and wine, are locally sourced, and the simple breakfast is a treat. Think freshly baked baguettes, homemade jam, and bacon and eggs. Where to stay: Le Barn offers cosy rooms with tons of activities included in the price. From yoga to archery, there’s plenty on offer to occupy you while enjoying the 500-acre estate, full of grazing horses. The grounds have a sauna, hammam and Nordic baths, and two restaurants serving seasonal, locally sourced menus. Guests can also go for a massage, play board games by the fire or borrow an e-bike to explore the grounds, and kids can enjoy pony rides and games in the garden. Rooms are separate from the main building, across two converted barns with special suites available as well. Most have a balcony that overlooks the horse fields or the hotel’s lake (which is open for wild swimming if that’s your thing). Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com Normandy For local produce Calvados, cream, butter, cheese, apples, cider: like many places in France, Normandy is not easy on the arteries. It is, however, a superb place to sample AOC-status booze and food made by small, unfussy family producers, many of whom have been perfecting their produce since William the Conqueror started peppering the landscape with castles. Normandy boasts no fewer than 30 Michelin-starred restaurants and a packed calendar of food festivals throughout the year celebrating its natural larder, from the Fête du Camembert in Orbec in June, July’s oyster festival in Denneville, the Foire aux Fromages in Livarot in August, the scallop festival in Ouistreham in October and an annual cider festival in picturesque Beuvron-en-Auge. With 370 miles of coastline, menus are brimming with seafood. The region’s oysters have their own AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) and Port-en-Bessin’s scallops are justifiably famous – this is the home of coquilles St Jacques. The countryside is lush and green, grazed by native dairy herds, the region’s cheeseboard showcases the big four: livarot, neufchâtel, pont l’évêque and camembert de Normandie. The rolling hills are also blanketed with orchards of apples and pears, used to produce cider, calvados and poiré. Where to stay: soak up the impressive surroundings of the Château de la Puisaye, a rambling 18th-century property in Verneuil-sur-Avre, now an elegant b&b. British owners, Diana and Bruno Costes, have spent years renovating the Napolean III château, and now offer a handful of rooms in the main house, a studio over the stables and a holiday cottage: the old hunting lodge. Breakfast in the wood-panelled dining room is a delicious spread of home-baked bread and jams, fruit from their orchards, and local cheeses. Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com Brittany For the home of crêpes You’re never more than a frisbee’s throw from a crêperie in Brittany. The northwest corner of France is famous for its pancakes – sweet, wafer-thin crêpes smeared with salted caramel or buckwheat galettes stuffed with artisan sausage. It’s also a popular bucket-and-spade destination. But there’s more to Brittany than beaches and pancakes. Its larder is bulging with cider, oysters and onions; that French stereotype, the beret-clad man on a bike with a string of onions round his neck, was an ‘onion Johnny,’ hopping from Brittany to Britain to sell sweet, pink onions from Roscoff. Butter is also big in Brittany – rich, creamy and seasoned with fleur de sel from the Guérande. Where to stay: Right by the water’s edge in Dinard, an elegant resort town in Brittany whose belle époque villas and grand hotels still hint at the grandeur of days gone by, Hotel Castelbrac holds its own among the surroundings. This fortress-like jumble of manicured stonework, originally built in the 1930s as a marine research station, sits on the town’s eastern shoreline overlooking St Malo across the water. Inside there’s a sophisticated, modern vibe (think art deco-inspired headboards and bathroom fittings, columns intricately tiled with mosaics and porthole-like windows illuminating velvet banquettes in the bar) while panoramic seaside views reflect the hotel’s restive, peaceful atmosphere. Splash out on one of the prestige rooms and you can enjoy panoramic windows stretching across the entire front of the room. Walk-in rain showers come as standard but some rooms also have elegant bathtubs at the foot of the beds Pampering is very much the order of the day here. Guests have access to private boat trips, bespoke treatments by Parisian spa brand Thémaéand a stunning sliver of a pool – a heated outdoor lap pool that lies just above the shore (bob your head up between strokes and you can look out at the sea below). Doubles from £349, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Dordogne For rural idyll There’s a reason why the Dordogne river has long been a magnet for those of us in search of classic beauty: it undulates through some of the loveliest parts of France, curling round towns and villages of gasp-inducing gorgeousness and, despite the odd sighting of jet-skis, gives the impression that nothing much ever changes. Head to Souillac (not for food, but for the slightly creepy Automaton museum; unmissable if you love the bizarre). And Sarlat, whose Saturday market is almost impossibly over-subscribed at the height of the summer season. As with many tourist destinations, the restaurants haven’t the greatest reputation, buy fat, vac-packed sausages and figs from the covered market in the Église Sainte Marie. For a blissful bout of people-watching at the heart of the market square, visit hilarious Jimmy’s Bar, a rockabilly French fantasy of a US diner, to eat oysters from one of the nearby market stalls and quantities of chilled Bergerac rosé. Where to stay: Chateau de la Treyne, clinging to the steep banks of the river, has baronial, wood-panelled rooms, vast open fireplaces and sense of serenity. Breakfast includes tiny, freshly made omelettes, cured ham, just-baked baguette and pastries, homemade jams and butter so luscious you could eat it by the spoonful. Dinner at the Chateau's Michelin-starred restaurant is quite the event, course after course of inventive cuisine making full use of the area’s native bounty – Quércy lamb, Aubrac beef and truffles (of course), in a tapestried room breathing stories of the past. Check rates and availability at chateaudelatreyne.com Read more about edible delights of the Dordogne here Sète For seaside fun Sète’s sandy beaches are thronged with visitors during summer, but the peninsula has bigger fish to fry than tourism – it’s the largest fishing port on the French Mediterranean coast, and behind it is the oyster-filled Thau lagoon. It’s picturesque, too – from the hillside ‘Little Naples’ district to its boat-lined canals, the 19th-century facades are an attractive reminder of the town’s prosperous wine-trading heritage. Local recipes – such as octopus-stuffed tielle pie – have stood the test of time, many brought by the Italian immigrants that settled here in the last century. The best seafood restaurants are along Quai Maximin Lucciardi near the harbour, where you’re likely to spot fishermen unloading still-writhing stock. Where to stay: Le Grand Hotel retains much of its belle époque charm. Velvet curtains and chandeliers set the scene for market-fresh ingredients at Quai 17, the hotel’s opulent restaurant; try the signature lobster risotto with bisque sauce, or local speciality bourride, a monkfish stew with aïoli. The bright bedrooms are spread across three elegant floors – go for one that overlooks the canal and gaze at the shimmering image of buildings and boats reflected in the water. Doubles from £149, check availability at booking.com Languedoc Roussillon For less crowded South of France West of the glitz and glamour of the Côte d’Azur is a quieter, less crowded corner of the South of France: the Languedoc Roussillon. Sweeping from Provence to the Pyrénées via a scenic string of historic towns and villages, shimmering coastline and wild, untamed countryside, the region is also one of the oldest and largest wine growing areas of the world. Inland you can take to the lazy waters of the Canal du Midi or the rugged surroundings of the Cévennes National Park or visit one of the many vineyards of the region. Historic local towns with their bustling produce markets like Pézanas, Béziers and Narbonne provide plenty of scope for picking up ingredients if you want to self-cater. Where to stay: wine forms the central theme of Château St. Pierre de Serjac, a 200-acre hotel-cum-vineyard outside Puissalicon. At its heart is a turreted, 19th century chateau surrounded by fragrant gardens, olive trees and palms. From its windows guests can gaze out over a huge, heated infinity pool onto regimented rows of vines and, beyond it, the fertile Langeudocienne landscape. The ground floor is home to the reception area, bar and a fine dining restaurant, and is decorated in a sophisticated palette of peacock and teal with Art Deco-style chandeliers picked up in the antiques market in nearby Béziers. A Cinq Mondes spa, with tranquil indoor pool, completes the picture. Upstairs in the château are eight, luxurious suites, fittingly decked out with chandeliers, antiques, roll-top baths and singular touches such as (in an eaves room) the hand-painted walls of a former chapel. An extensive renovation has also seen the repurposing of the estates’ many outbuildings, resulting in 36-self catering apartments and houses. These are the real appeal for families. Sleeping two to eight, each one has been tastefully decorated in 50 shades of Elephant’s Breath with lots of linen, oak and wrought iron. They also come with high spec kitchens and all the latest tech – some of the larger properties also have fenced off pools. Amble over to the château for breakfast in the main restaurant – a spread of freshly baked croissants and pastries, fruit, yoghurt, cereals and hot dishes cooked to order. Doubles from £238, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Loire Valley For a gourmet rural escape The Loire Valley is one of France’s most rewarding gourmet destinations. Often called the garden of France, it produces an abundance of fresh ingredients so youll be spoilt for choice with local produce to enjoy – from asparagus and goat’s cheese to river fish and seasonal fruit. Wine lovers will have plenty to explore with the region's vineyards too. Between meals, visitors can explore storybook châteaux (and even stay in them, see below), lively markets (perfect for stocking up on all those local goodies) and charming towns that feel refreshingly unhurried compared to more crowded regions. Whether you’re cycling between wineries, lingering over a long lunch by the river or discovering small family-run producers, the Loire Valley offers a slower, more intimate way to experience French gastronomy. Where to stay: Tucked into the sleepy Loire Valley village of Vernou-en-Sologne, La Borde en Sologne Châteaux & Spa is a quietly luxurious countryside retreat, drawing couples and slow-travel seekers with its elegant, unfussy charm and sense of seclusion. Rooms are individually styled, blending traditional features with contemporary comfort. Expect soft linens, muted tones and views across the surrounding woodland or gardens. Some rooms offer baths or private terraces, ideal for a more indulgent stay, while thoughtful touches like locally sourced toiletries and well stocked minibars add to the sense of place. The on-site restaurant, Mémoire, is a highlight, with a seasonal menu rooted in the Loire Valley. Think delicately prepared river fish, garden-led vegetable dishes and refined takes on classic French plates. The wine list leans local, showcasing the region’s crisp whites and lighter reds, while the bar offers a relaxed spot for an apéritif or nightcap. In summer the terraces come into their own, with drinks and light bites served outdoors overlooking the gardens. Breakfast is a generous spread of pastries, fresh breads, local cheeses and preserves, alongside cooked to order eggs and seasonal fruit. Doubles from €220, check availability at booking.com or laborde-sologne.fr South Pigalle, Paris For Parisian patisserie The once overlooked SoPi neighbourhood is now a must-visit for its artisan patisseries, hip bistros and stellar cheese shops. If you're travelling to Paris for the patisserie alone, check out Sébastien Gaudard’s Rue des Martyrs boutique. Whether you want a choux bun, or a jar of crème de marrons (chestnut cream), you'll feel like a child in a sweet shop. They look almost too good to eat, but don't let that stop you. After all those cakes, a coffee might be in order, so stop off at KB Café Shop. After spending time in Sydney, the French owner wanted to bring some Australian influence back to France. It's got a relaxed vibe and the beans are roasted on site so they're as fresh as can be. Flaine For a foodie ski trip Looking for the best French ski trip? Set in the French Alps, Flaine is the ideal base for a weekend spent skiing and indulging in vin chaud and crepes. Restaurant Le Michet is set at a handy spot where many of the runs converge. It’s a place to wallow inside on a cold evening, protected by timber rafters, thick stone walls and central fireplace. If you’re after Savoyard specialities you’ll find everything from tartiflette to home-smoked trout and salmon on the menu but it’s worth experimenting with some of the more unusual dishes; the subtly spiced lentils with coconut milk and black rice (essentially a creamy dhal) is great post-ski fuel. Make sure you take a big enough suitcase to squirrel away some gourmet souvenirs from artisan food store Chez Bolzi on your way home. In the centre of Flaine Forum, close to the tourist office, almost everything it sells comes from within a 50km radius of Flaine; take your pick from reblochon and tome cheeses, Savoie salamis, beer from Brasserie Mont Blanc and Savoie-produced Pinot Noir and Cremant. Where to stay: Make Terminal Neige Totem your base, with its views out on the slopes and outdoor hot tub. The buffet food they offer is much more than your average spread, think plates of charcuterie and cheese, pan-fried seabass as well as fondue. Don’t miss out on the dessert bar – a place to indulge in Nutella mug cakes, made-to-order waffles and homemade bluberry marshmallows. If you need a break from all the skiing, head to one of the street food stalls in Flaine Forum and warm yourself up with hot crepes. Read our full guide to Flaine, here. Bordeaux For a winter getaway This city’s robust signature dishes, rib-sticking entrecôte cooked in red wine, butter, shallots, herbs and bone marrow sauce, confit duck and lamprey, come into their own in winter, and it’s an excellent place to shop for foodie stocking fillers. Each year, Bordeaux’s Allées de Tourny is transformed into a Christmas market with wooden huts and stalls selling local gifts, many of them food-related. Stock up on canelés from Baillardran and don’t miss Maison Darricau for handmade chocolates peppered with honey and spices. Where to stay: Twenty minutes’ drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the epitome of French country chic. There’s a stone manor house at its heart, a small lake, and a hard-working kitchen garden, plus a hamlet-like extension of suites. Great food and wine are the focus at this gastronomic getaway, but even the finest dining (the hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, holds two Michelin stars) is done without fuss. The newer, cabin-like suites (designed to reflect the oyster fishermen’s huts of Cap Ferret, in the nearby Arcachon Basin), with their whitewashed timber walls, retro-influenced furniture and spa-like bathrooms, are the ones to splash out on; in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by frogs as you return to your room along flower- and water-lined pathways. In the mornings, step onto your private terrace and watch carthorses ploughing the vines just outside. The three restaurants at Les Sources have most tastes covered. Celebrate a special occasion with dinner in La Grand’Vigne and enjoy a meal where even the table salts stick in the memory (one of ours, blended with Bordeaux pimento, was the colour of roast peppers). The cheeseboard comes with fresh cottage cheese, from a local dairy, served with a dot of cherry jam. Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Biarritz For a foodie French seaside trip If you’re looking for a French spring getaway, head to Biarritz – a glitzy seaside resort which is the perfect place for cheese lovers. Start off with a visit to Crampotte 30, an old fisherman's hut turned restaurant serving a selection of pintxos. Head to halles-biarritz for a selection of regional produce including dry-cured bayonne ham. Don’t leave before visiting Patisserie Miremont, a confectionary shop that dates back to the 19th century. Order the speciality which is a chocolate mousse cake called Le Beret Basque. Bayonne For a visit to the French capital of chocolate The tranquil city of Bayonne embodies the gastronomic energy of the Basque region, historically famed for its artisanal hams, and as the French capital of chocolate. The legendary Chocolat Cazenave serves up intense bubble-topped ‘sparkling’ hot chocolates in porcelain cups. Chocolaterie Xokola Etxetera specialises in chocolate spreads infused with spicy Espelette pepper, and L’Atelier du Chocolat Bayonne has its iconic Bayonne chocolate shard bouquets. Eat pintxos including jamon croquettes, truffled croque monsieur and Pyrenees milk-fed lamb kebabs at Les Basses Pyrénées bar. Then, for dinner, head to La Brasserie Basa for fish dishes with daily catch from the local village of Saint-Jean-De-Luz, and sweet creations such as buckwheat almond praline choux to finish. Europcamp Domaine de Massereau For a foodie family camping trip Eurocamping is an affordable way to have a family holiday, but Domaine de Massereau promises so much more than just a campsite. The on-site vineyard produces 30,000 bottles a year, and you can sample of few of them on the free one hour-tour and tasting each evening. If you find one you like, stock up as they’re rarely exported. If you want to eat on-site, you can order pizzas fresh from the wood-fired oven or seafood platters piled high with crabs, razor clams and langoustines. Should you wish to explore the local area, head into Sommières – a beautiful French town with shuttered buildings and market squares. Check rates and availability at eurocamp.co.uk More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best European mountain escapes to visit in 2026
Discover the best European mountain escapes to visit in 2026, from a relaxing treetop retreat in the Dolomites, to an ancient spa nestled in the Troodos mountains in Cyprus
Whether you're after a restorative getaway or want to go hiking surrounded by beautiful scenery, a holiday in the mountains offers the ultimate escape. Breathe in fresh mountain air, spot unique wildlife and soak up the views, surrounded by nature. From architectural hideouts in the Italian Dolomites and the forests of the Bavarian Alps, to an ecotourism getaway in Cyprus, Europe offers a wealth of luxury mountain escapes to visit – discover our picks below of the best mountain hotels that foodies will love. Looking for more travel inspiration? Read our guides to the best saunas to visit in the UK, the best Italian hotels for food lovers and 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting. Best European mountain escapes 2026 Forestis, Dolomites, Italy Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it My Arbor, South Tyrol, Italy Rooms from £206 per night based on two people sharing a Nest Suite; check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or My Arbor Expect to be whisked high above the clouds at this architectural hideout in the Dolomites. Conveniently situated just 50 minutes from Bolzano airport, My Arbor stands proud on stilts against the snow-capped South Tyrolean mountains, making this the perfect spot to experience treetop seclusion. Guests are greeted with the signature cocktail, The Arborene, with its warming blend of sweet vermouth and homemade orange-cinnamon liqueur, best enjoyed on the sun-kissed patio. The hotel has more than 100 south-facing suites, each adorned with reclaimed wood from sunburnt larches and firs from the Eisack Valley. Features include large panoramic windows, a private terrace and a cosy nook for hunkering down with a book. With most of the produce for the restaurant sourced directly from Lake Garda and harvested by owner Markus Huber, sustainability is more than just a concept here. The tasting menu changes daily and is often centred around a theme (think ‘essence of water’ or ‘nature’s delight’). Expect bold flavours, from swordfish tagliata with saffron risotto to onsen eggs with potato truffle espuma. The breakfast buffet is an assortment of local treats, including a juice bar for turmeric and ginger shots, eggs as you like them and homemade breads such as South Tyrolean schüttelbrot – a crunchy flatbread peppered with fragrant spices. Make sure you carve out time to experience an invigorating sauna infusion where the sauna master uses balls of snow enriched with essential oils to control the heat and deepen relaxation. Schloss Elmau, Bavarian Alps, Germany Rooms from £580 per night based on two people sharing; check availability at booking.com or Schloss Elmau Set against the backdrop of the Wetterstein mountains and framed by an abundant pine forest and the icy blue Ferchenbach river, it’s hard not to lose yourself in the scenery and facilities at Schloss Elmau. While staying here, guests can enjoy access to six spas, eight restaurants, a concert hall and two hotels (The Retreat and The Hideaway). The lofty presidential suites at The Retreat are softened with plush furnishings, with an Indian elephant motif woven into the textiles, and are designed to show off panoramic mountain views – take your pick between a luxurious free-standing bath or regal chaise longue to soak up the snowscapes. Restaurant Tutto Mondo offers twists on comforting Alpine cuisine, including homemade tagliolini blanketed in Piedmont truffles. At the neighbouring pan-Asian restaurant Fidelio, expect succulent meats grilled over binchōtan charcoal and paired with foamed nori butter. For those wanting a touch more luxury, opt for the two Michelin starred Ikigai. Breakfast is equally bountiful, with a selection of smoothies and health shots, creamy bircher muesli and homemade breads – including the well-loved German pumpernickel that’s ready to be topped with honey from Schloss Elmau’s bees. Start the day with a soothing golden milk – a silky, fragrant hot drink infused with turmeric, cinnamon and maple syrup. As well as its next-level food and drink options, Schloss Elmau boasts a programme of activities for guests, including yoga, qigong, curling, concerts and cross-country skiing. Ideal for switching off and hunkering down. Hotel Bohinj, Slovenia Doubles from £186 per night, check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com This striking eco retreat stands majestically above Slovenia’s largest lake, its larch wood structure designed to imitate the mountainous backdrop. There’s a distinct alpine feel, complete with roaring fireplace, animal hides and traditional ski equipment in the lobby, while the expansive lake-view lawn is scattered with blanket-covered chairs for huddling around firepits well into the night. Floor-to-ceiling windows fill the all-day restaurant with light, or opt for a spot on the terrace with dramatic views in all directions. Contemporary twists on local fare take centre stage – buckwheat flour dumplings with sweet pumpkin purée, Bohinj trout with cauliflower, and upstream flander with pea purée – while pungent local mohant cheese is whipped into the must-order tangy cheesecake. Wines by the glass include Slovenia’s renowned sparkling istenič prestige, the Istrian peninsula’s malvazija and a fruity red from the Vipava Valley. Rooms are simple larch-lined cocoons with pops of alpine chic to add character – craggy peak-shaped lights carved into headboards, the hotel’s mountain hiker motif embossed into cushions and fur throws on bucket seats from which you can gaze out over the lake. Each night includes two hours in the spa, complete with saunas, salt room and outdoor whirlpool to soak up mountain views. Walnuts, dried fruits and regional herbal teas are strategically placed at the end of a ‘natural floor’ corridor, over which guests are encouraged to walk barefoot for grounding. The buffet breakfast is a selection of cold cuts, cheeses and yogurts from local cooperatives as well as seasonal fruits, homemade smoothies and eggs any-style on freshly baked toast. Doubles from £186 per night, check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Nordelaia, Piedmont, Italy Rooms from £261 per night; check availability at Mr & Mrs Smith, booking.com or Nordelaia This stunning property lies in rural Piedmont, a region suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800- year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are both contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, complete with freestanding baths for an extra dose of opulence. The four rooms on the first floor are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes that surround the property: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn and pearly whites in winter. Two outdoor pools (one heated, one not, but both with views for miles) entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its stone floors and arches, and barrel-vaulted brick ceiling, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here, chef Charles Pearce pays homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. His take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta – is instead paired with grilled prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms served with a deeply savoury, anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Priesteregg, Leogang, Austria Berg chalet from £280 per person per night based on two people sharing, including breakfast and spa access; check availability at Priesteregg Surrounded by the snow-dusted Alps, this collection of 15 wooden chalets is reminiscent of a mountain village. Sitting at a height of 1,100 metres there are panoramic views with fresh Alpine air and the aroma of woodsmoke to greet you on arrival. The focus is on traditional local food using high quality ingredients – bread is freshly baked in a stone oven, bacon is smoked in a smoking chamber and the local cows provide the creamiest milk and butter. Each chalet is generously stocked with local treats and every morning guests are delivered breakfast bundles of cured meats, salmon, cheeses, fresh fruits and baked goods. In the evening you can request to dine in your chalet or bundle up and walk to Huwi’s Alm, the on-site restaurant. The signature dish is an event in itself, served on an iron hat that’s heated by small burners. Diners are given a selection of marinated organic steaks and pork loin to cook, with the brim of the hat filled with a rich beef and vegetable soup that gets more intense as the cooking continues. It’s served with crisp baked potatoes, salad and a selection of sauces. Chalets are a combination of beautiful natural materials and modern luxuries. Glass-fronted bedrooms, mountain views, freestanding outdoor baths, suspended fireplaces, private saunas and snow-clad rooftop hot tubs are just some of the unique features. Sheepskin rugs, cosy sofas and the softest bedding make it hard to leave the comfort of your chalet, despite the ski slopes across the valley being in sight of the sun decks. Wellness is taken very seriously here, too – guests can swim in the heated infinity pool next to an open fireplace, relax in Swiss pine saunas or take an invigorating guided dip in the unheated outdoor nature pool. The expansive open-air terrace has luxurious loungers, pillows and blankets to make the most of the winter sun. Casale Panayiotis, Cyprus From £286 based on a two-night stay for two adults in a comfort studio; check availability at booking.com, Hilton or Casale Panayiotis Nestled in the heart of the Troodos Mountains, the climate is noticeably cooler at Casale Panayiotis than down by the Cyprus coast. An agrotourism project saved Kalopanayiotis village from extinction nearly 13 years ago, restoring the historical buildings to their former glory in the form of 29 beautiful rooms and stone cottage suites. The award-winning spa complete with hydrotherapy pool, sauna, herbal steam room and private outdoor whirlpool harks back to the village’s ancient spa origins. Restaurants celebrate local ingredients, including seasonal fruit and veg from the on-site orchards. Byzantino Restaurant spotlights traditional Cypriot dishes, while Pantheon offers casual dining among magnificent mountain views. Grill restaurant Loutraki serves pan-seared, locally sourced trout, premium fillet steak and chicken breast ballotine. Local cultural, culinary and sporting activities are available to be booked for those seeking adventure and new experiences. Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, Switzerland Doubles start from £296 based on two sharing, check availability at resortragaz.ch Water is the stuff of life at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz where a special supply trickles down from Tamina Gorge in the Swiss Alps. It fills several pools at the Tamina Spa, an impressive indoor-outdoor omplex, to warmly envelop guests against a stunning backdrop of snowcapped mountains. Earn that soothing dip by striking out into the lush ‘Heidiland’valley. Follow wooded paths stretching out alongside the mighty Rhine or rent an e-bike to explore longer routes through villages and the Bündner Herrschaft vineyards. On Fridays there are tastings in the hotel’s own wine gallery, and there’s art to drink in, too. Martin Creed’s neon roof installation (assuring guests “everything will be alright”) echoes a harmonious balance between old world grandeur and a sharp, contemporary aesthetic. Among seven restaurants, there’s three-Michelin-starred Memories by Sven (Wassmer) for while Verve by Sven (one Michelin star) delivers precise, elegant treatment of local produce, such as braised veal cheek and gleamingly fresh cured alpine salmon. Tuck into heartier alpine fare – stews and signature fondues – at Zollstube, in rustic lodge-style surroundings. As much as you indulge, the alpine air – and something in the water – ensures you’ll leave feeling utterly refreshed. 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From boutique hotels in Ibiza to city break bases in Barcelona and Madrid, here's our pick of the best Spanish hotels
Looking for the best Spanish hotel to visit? We've found the best Spanish hotels for food lovers in Barcelona, Madrid, Ibiza and everywhere in between. Whether you're on a budget or looking for luxury, need a city break or a relaxing vineyard getaway, check out our round-up of the best Spanish hotels for something for everyone. For more travel and hotel inspiration, check out our guide to the best European hidden gem hotels, best Italian hotels or the best Paris hotels, or get more ideas for your Spanish holiday with our best Spanish trips for foodies. Best Spanish hotels for food lovers Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno, Catalonia Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com In the vineyard-strewn hills of Catalonia’s Priorat region, Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno reimagines the Spanish manor house with design-led clarity. A Relais & Châteaux property with just 24 suites, it’s a study in refined minimalism, with arched stone walls, polished marble, hand-thrown ceramics and an infinity pool sculpted in the silhouette of a wine bottle. Inside, curves dominate the design language: vaulted ceilings, sculptural fireplaces and custom-made furniture soften the bold, monastic architecture. Food is central to the experience. At restaurant Vinum, chef Josep Queralt draws inspiration from Llibre de Sent Soví, a 14th-century Catalan recipe manuscript. Expect candied leeks with Bellmunt cottage cheese and confit egg yolk, or poultry broth layered with roasted Reus hazelnuts, dishes that feel both timeless and quietly radical. For a more relaxed rhythm, Tarraco serves poolside classics with polish: think citrus-cured ceviche, creamy Ibérico rice and chilled tomato gazpacho elevated by prawns and diced watermelon. Evenings unfold at Bruno’s Bar, where bold regional reds and vermouth-spiked cocktails are poured beneath vaulted stone, best enjoyed fireside or on the terrace overlooking the vines. Book the Bruno Suite for its vineyard-facing freestanding bath, vaulted interiors and full in-room bar stocked with local wines and gourmet Catalan treats. masdenbruno.com/en Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Castilla Termal Brihuega, Castilla-La Mancha From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com Surrounded by lavender fields, this little town in the region of La Alcarria is home to a new boutique hotel in a restored cloth factory. Perfect for food lovers seeking to make new discoveries, it showcases regional specialities, while its thermal waters provide an opportunity to fully relax and rejuvenate. Breakfast is a delight: all the Spanish goodies like jamón ibérico, pan con tomate and tortilla, plus local ingredients like manchego, honeycomb and tarta de uvas – a grape sponge cake which teams well with the more contemporary touch in the cold drip coffee offered. At dinner, rustic plates like kid goat and the region’s famous rum baba style cake are served in the large glass-domed restaurant. Nearby food experiences include truffle hunting at family-owned TrufaZero, which supplies many restaurants in the region. Guests can dig for the black gold sniffed out by their dog, Nino. Brihuega’s thermal spa promotes a sense of wellness and relaxation with an outdoor pool, massage jets and a bespoke lavender treatment – a two-hour ritual which includes a lavender scrub, wrap and massage. Exposed brick, wooden beams and floors, a neutral colour palette and dried floral displays add to the calming effect. castillatermal.com From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com Cuatre Finques, Marina Alta Doubles from £165, check availability at cuatrefinques.com or booking.com Nestled in a valley between Valencia and Alicante, this rural retreat is a lesson in rustic elegance. Owner Nicky is a wonderful host, welcoming guests into her idyllic stone finca, complete with parasol-lined pool for disconnecting. The nine ensuite rooms include individual touches – antique dressers, Moscatell’s stone headboard and Olivera’s intricate four-poster bed. Private balconies and terraces look out over pine and almond trees, with Sierra de Bernia vistas and Xaló Valley views beyond. If not grown on the land, produce for the lovingly prepared meals is sourced from local growers. Breakfast spreads are made up of fresh bread, serrano ham and manchego, alongside seasonal cakes and homemade jams, plus melon, mango and figs plucked from the property’s trees, all enjoyed in the garden to soak up surroundings for plotting the day’s activities. Once a week there’s a sharing feast when guests gather around the tiled table beneath an atmospheric veranda. Cava cocktails and Spanish wines are free flowing, a variety of tapas dishes are laid out to share and bossa nova melodies from the in-house band flutter into the night. Sunday lunch is dedicated to paella or fideuà, cooked traditionally in large pans and paired with tumblers of refreshing tinto de verano. There’s also the option of candlelit four-course dinners, while the honesty fridge and bar encourage a grazing make yourself at home feel. Doubles from £165, check availability at cuatrefinques.com or booking.com Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel, Ibiza Doubles from €245, check availability at booking.com Luxury meets nature in a hotel with exquisite indoor-outdoor design, a spa set within orange groves and a hard-working farm. White-washed buildings, manicured gardens and glistening swimming pools surrounded by huge, pristine day beds all create a gorgeous first impression. Discrete, secret VIP deluxe suites are where celebrities can holiday with complete privacy. So far, so luxe. But a stroll through the orange groves to the hotel’s vast vegetable plot reveals how sustainable and farm-to-fork this family-owned estate is. Solar panels and an on-site well supply power and water to the gardens, pools, spa and rooms. Herbs and botanicals are used in rejuvenating spa treatments. Figs, tomatoes, cucumbers and pomegranates are picked that day, and served just minutes and metres aways in the hotel’s sunny, vine-covered veranda. The garden also supplies its nearby, laid-back sister restaurant, Aubergine by Atzaró, where clever combinations like roasted aubergine carpaccio, cherry tomatoes, feta, dates, pistachio and rocket pesto create texture and zing. At Atzaró beach club, tuna ceviche with mango, chilli, coriander and tiger’s milk is light and flavour-packed. Design at Atzaró Agroturismo references Ibiza’s natural beauty with a profusion of plants, natural wicker and wood, bright whites, with splashes of colour provided through bougainvillea or swimming pool azure. atzaro.com Doubles from €245, check availability at booking.com Royal Hideaway Corales Villas, Tenerife Doubles from £297, check availability at booking.com or britishairways.com Framed by panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and bold volcanic peaks, this boutique luxury hotel in the south of Tenerife offers a holistic experience designed for those wanting to recharge and disconnect. It’s sleek and minimalist, a neutral colour palette taking inspiration from the rugged landscape of the island. Large windows and a pool framed with palm trees further the hotel’s spirit of reconnecting with nature. Junior suites have Nordic-inspired interiors, swim-up pools and sea views. For further privacy the two-bedroom deluxe suites or two- and three-bedroom villas are spacious yet secluded, all equipped with a kitchen, vast terrace, private pool and outdoor lounge areas. At the spa, book highly personalised treatments or spend time in the fully equipped gym, sauna and yoga patio. Restaurant Bonfire boasts 360-degree island views and light bites such as beetroot carpaccio with feta and grilled almonds, caviar and smoked seabass sandwiches, and steak tartare with grilled bone marrow. For elevated dining, Crater serves two set menus, each paying homage to a different island in the Canaries. Signature cocktails at Materia Elemental Bar are inspired by the four elements – earth, water, fire and air – enriched with subtle Canary Island influences. Alternatively, book paella from scratch cooked in your villa by a private chef. Expect a lavish breakfast buffet each morning with Canarian cheeses, cured meats, breads and pastries, plus a smoothie bar, hot crispy churros and eggs in any style. There’s even an option to have a floating tray breakfast in your private pool. Doubles from £297, check availability at booking.com or britishairways.com Son Molí, Mallorca Doubles from £218 per night, check availability at booking.com or sonmoli.com Set within 50,000 square metres of gardens and groves, yet still just 15 minutes from Palma’s centre, Son Molí Country House is an 1897 finca that has been renovated to become a 22-room rural retreat. The renovation is carefully judged. Original stone walls and spacious proportions remain, while interiors are pared back with plenty of natural materials and calming neutral tones. Generous bathrooms have walk-in rain showers and cosy underfloor heating; suites open onto sunny private terraces facing the orchards. The kitchen blends Mediterranean cuisine with a clear Mallorcan slant, drawing on local producers and, where possible, the estate itself, using estate olive oil, citrus and garden herbs. Breakfast is served in the dappled courtyard beneath the trees, with local cheeses and jamón, ripe fruit and baked treats. At dinner, the menu draws on the island’s larder – take your pick of seafood, slow-cooked meats and vegetables. Spend your days relaxing by the palm-fringed pool or playing a match on the tennis courts, or head out to explore the island, discovering golden beaches, inland villages with pretty cobbled streets or the bustling galleries and restaurants of Palma all within reach. Doubles from £218 per night, check availability at booking.com or sonmoli.com Monasterio de Valbuena, Castile and León Doubles from £245, check availability at booking.com A kitchen garden, impressive cellar and spa experience make this converted monastery set within vineyards spectacularly unique. As you might expect in the Ribera del Duero, wine is a focus – from a welcome glass of sparkling verdejo to the hotel’s own production of Converso, an earthy tempranillo with well-balanced dark fruits. In the kitchen garden, rare-breed Black Castilian hens happily cluck away. Dishes made with produce nurtured here are expertly paired with the best regional wines in its three restaurants. Pickled partridge, ravioli stuffed with poultry and sheep’s cheese, game and mushroom rice and pigeon combine traditional regional ingredients with modern cooking techniques. A converted 12th-century monastery with high arches, courtyards and cloisters has windows overlooking the vineyards and river. The spa has an intriguing St Peter’s Chapel experience which reimagines the design of the monastery’s working chapel into a private spa experience including a relaxing sauna, invigorating shower and bathing, and atmospheric lighting. The hotel has forged ties with sympathetic businesses who share its values of sustainability and respect, and support for the land and community. At high-end bodega Pago de Carraovejas guests can discover the wine-making process, visit the cellars, taste the wines and have lunch at Michelin-starred restaurant Ambivium. castillatermal.com Doubles from £245, check availability at booking.com El Gran Sueño, Asturias Doubles from £124, check availability at booking.com There’s a “slow hotel” philosophy at El Gran Sueño, a boutique rural retreat in the mountains of Asturias. It uses renewable energy and serves only homemade, organic food, with at least one dinner a week meat-free. Tuck into freshly baked bread with grated tomato and local artisan cheeses for breakfast (with a glass of freshly squeezed Valencia orange juice or pressed Asturian cider-apple juice) before heading out to explore the surrounding mountains and woodlands. Having worked up an appetite, return to base for a hearty, home-cooked three-course dinner (the vegan chocolate and beetroot brownie is a must-try pudding). elgransueno.es Doubles from £124, check availability at booking.com Torralbenc, Menorca Doubles from £208, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com A cluster of 19th-century whitewashed farm buildings, with views out over the sparkling Med, Torralbenc is now a luxury hotel, surrounded by 70 hectares of fields, orchards and vineyards in the south-western corner of Menorca. The restored estate not only makes its own olive oil but also produces wine. Starting with just five hectares of vines in 2006, the property now has 16 hectares dedicated to growing grapes. Its first wine was bottled in 2016 and the estate now produces a merlot and syrah blend (all red berries and spicy black pepper with a tinge of toasted vanilla), a bright rosé from indigenous monstrell and parellada grapes (floral with strawberries and cherries on the palate) and an easy-drinking white blended from sauvignon blanc, viognier, chardonnay and parellada with citrus, stone fruits and floral notes. Guests can book a vineyard experience with the hotel’s oenologist, exploring the vineyards on foot or by bike, learning how the wines are produced and enjoying a tasting, with local Menorcan cheeses, among the vines. torralbenc.com Doubles from £208, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Only YOU Hotel Atocha, Madrid Doubles from £127, check availability at booking.com Usefully positioned opposite Puerta de Atocha railway station, Only YOU Hotel Atocha impresses with its buzzy industrial-chic lobby (complete with barber, patisserie and restaurant) and complimentary glass of fizz on arrival. Spacious rooms have a sleek mid-century feel, and the hotel’s rooftop Sép7ima bar (with panoramic views of the city) puts on a lavish buffet every morning that includes pastries and churros, charcuterie and cheeses, fresh juice, fruit and cooked breakfasts. onlyyouhotels.com Doubles from £127, check availability at booking.com Son Brull, Mallorca, Spain Doubles from £530, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Guests at gastronomic bolthole Son Brull can ask the kitchen to pack a gourmet picnic if they’re heading out to hike or bike around the surrounding hills. This elegant finca, or farmhouse, in the foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana, dates back to the 12th century but the approach to food and wine is bang up to date. The kitchen garden, where chef Rafel Perello sources the ingredients for his inventive menus and cookery classes, brims with home-grown herbs, salad leaves and vegetables, while the trees surrounding the hotel are laden with oranges, lemons and figs. The hotel has its own organic vineyard: pair its wines with dinner in the fine-dining restaurant, 365, where seasonal eight-course tasting menus showcase local Mallorcan ingredients. More casual, bistro-style dining can be had in the bar (with its ancient olive press) during the winter or on the terrace in sunnier months. sonbrull.com Doubles from £530, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Casa Bonay, Barcelona Doubles from £197, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Check into hip Casa Bonay, a renovated mansion where traditional hydraulic floor tiles are mixed with Gaudí’s iconic paving stones, adding a hint of edginess to its ground floor lounges, coffee bars and restaurant. Stylish, pared-back bedrooms redefine luxury with hand-woven blankets from Els Teixidors, maxi-bars stocked with premium gin, vodka and single malt, and room service in the shape of a tiffin tin to be eaten in bed. Casa Bonay makes other foodie hotels seem dull by comparison. Think house restaurant Bodega Bonay serving Mediterranean sharing plates, the hotel bar Libertine for grown up cocktails mixed with aplomb by a team of savvy mixologists, and the tropical-themed Chiringuito on the buzzy roof terrace for tapas as you watch the sunset. casabonay.com Doubles from £197, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Hospes Palau de la Mar, Valencia Doubles from £192, check availability at hospes.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Housed in two 19th-century mansions on the cusp of Valencia’s old town, this luxury boutique hotel retains original palatial features with a pristine contemporary layer atop. Wooden double doors open into a gleaming lobby of marble flooring, majestic columns and a sweeping double staircase, all doused in an alluring aroma of orange blossom to tempt guests further in. Suites are all pale wood, sumptuous creams and muted geometric throws with statement headboards to add character, and many have juliette balconies for soaking up the city bustle below. Hide away in the subterranean Bodyna Spa with treatments grounded in Mediterranean practices before thermal circuits in the hydrotherapy pool, sauna and steam room. An olive and orange tree-lined central courtyard makes relaxing lounging territory for an iconic agua de valencia cocktail, while the bar is a prime spot for the well-respected martinis accompanied by extra olives. On-site restaurant Ampar has a 0km ethos with a local take on tapas such as coca d’oli, cod fritters and garlic pepper octopus, plus paella valenciana, artichoke fideuà and turbot with garlic and gamba roja. Enjoy your meal in a swirly art-adorned ruby red alcove inside or the parasol-shaded terrace, where a breakfast of freshly baked bread, jamón and cheese is also served, with an obligatory glass of freshly squeezed Valencian orange juice. Doubles from £192, check availability at hospes.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Corner House, Seville Doubles from £86, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Doubles at the Corner House, in the buzzy Alameda de Hércules (one of Seville’s most iconic squares), are very affordable. There's also an in-house restaurant/bar, El Disparate, serving a selection of traditional and innovative dishes; if you're lucky grab one of the tables on its spacious terrace, overlooking the square. thecornerhousesevilla.com Doubles from £86, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Iturrienea Ostatua, Bilbao Doubles from £58, check availability at booking.com This simple yet charming bed and breakfast is located right in the centre of the Old Town, housed in a property built in 1906 for a countess. Originally designed to look like a typical Basque country house, inside the largely modern décor is modest (simple white bedlinen, colourful quilted headboards, practical en-suite shower rooms) but homely. The nine bedrooms nod to the building’s history, with stone floors and wooden-beamed ceilings, and some have small private balconies. Breakfast is served in a country-style kitchen and stretches to local cheeses, charcuterie, sticky pastries and toast. iturrieneaostatua.com Doubles from £58, check availability at booking.com Hospes Casas del Rey de Baeza, Seville Doubles from €135 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Hospes Casas del Rey de Baeza is a charming hotel housed in a beautiful 18th-century ‘corral de vecino’ (characteristic of the city, these are apartments built round a courtyard) in the barrio Santa Cruz. hospes.com Doubles from €135 per night, check availability at hospes.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Hotel Maria Cristina, San Sebastián Doubles from £472, check availability at booking.com or marriott.com The glamorous belle époque Hotel Maria Cristina is a fitting base for the gourmet capital of Spain. The hotel, which nudges up to the Parte Vieja and overlooks the River Urumea, was exquisitely revamped in 2012, the year that marked its centenary. Renowned filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar has stayed here, along with a string of Hollywood luminaries from Bette Davis to Woody Allen. Its food credentials include its own concierge-designed DIY pintxos trail, a gourmet shop where you can stock up on gastronomic souvenirs from local wines to smoked olive oil and Basque cookbooks, while in the basement there’s the sleek, state-of-the-art cookery school. The cookery school is run by Mimo San Sebastián, set up in 2009 by British expat Jon Warren, whose passion for the region’s gastronomy led him to leave his lucrative job in the city in London. They offer pintxos tours, cookery classes, wine and sherry tastings, vineyard tours and trips to sagardotegiak (aka cider houses). These pepper the surrounding region especially near the town of Astigarraga. The houses dish up set menus featuring salt cod omelette, chorizo cooked in cider, and idiazabal with quince and walnuts along with as much cider – lightly sparkling, cloudy and refreshingly sour – as you can drink from the huge barrels. marriott.com Doubles from £472, check availability at booking.com or marriott.com. Hotel Sant Francesc, Palma Doubles from £430, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Food-focused short breaks at design hotel Sant Francesc, in the historic heart of Palma, include a paella masterclass with the hotel's head chef, Alfonso Lillo, and a tour and tasting at a gin distillery in the Santa Catalina neighbourhood (with tips on how to distil at home). With its historic setting – a restored 19th-century neoclassical mansion rich with original frescos and murals, cool verandas and wooden coffered ceilings – the hotel makes a perfect base for exploring Palma's gourmet markets and delis. Return from a hard day’s food shopping and spend time relaxing by the glamorous rooftop pool or splashing out on dinner in the restaurant, Quadrat. The restaurant, a vision of crumpled linen and painted wood in the property’s former stables, is the setting for Lillo's tasting menu peppered with Mediterranean-inspired dishes such as cream of grilled sweetcorn with tomato and avocado ceviche. hotelsantfrancesc.com Doubles from £430, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Hotel Ses Sucreres, Menorca Doubles from £131, check availability at booking.com Hotel Ses Sucreres, in the village of Ferreries, is a quirky bolthole that epitomises the laid back, low-key authenticity of the island a world away in style from high profile party isles Mallorca and Ibiza. The hotel is decked out with reclaimed furniture, geometric prints and modern photography. There are six bedrooms and relaxed breakfasts are served in a leafy courtyard garden – think homemade fig jam, soft sugary buns, local slithers of Mahon cheese and salty air-cured ham, sobrasada, the local sausage, smashed tomatoes and olive oil smeared on freshly baked bread. hotelsessucreres.com Doubles from £131, check availability at booking.com Finca Can Marti, Ibiza Check rates and availability at canmarti.com A pine-cradled rural idyll in a leafy valley in the north of Ibiza, Finca Can Marti is a 400-year-old, whitewashed farmhouse turned rustic-chic retreat. All muted cream and beige tones, with terracotta tiled floors, ancient beams and white walls, the finca is surrounded by 42 acres of organic orchards, vegetable plots, strawberry fields, olive groves and vineyards. The fruit and vegetables are sustainably grown on the farm and sold in the estate’s small organic shop, along with homemade jams, extra virgin olive oil and free-range eggs – which you can also enjoy at breakfast, along with a feast of fruits and freshly baked bread. Once a week the finca also offers dinner. Ten minutes’ walk away is the sleepy village of San Juan, with its smattering of local restaurants and a traditional market every Sunday. Or you can simply hole up on site lounging by the natural pool (the water is free from chemicals, circulated through a lava stone filter, oxygenated by a waterfall and cleared of impurities by aquatic plants). Then zone out, with an Ayurvedic and Thai massage under a pergola, trying not to peep at the dreamy view beyond. Check rates and availability at canmarti.com Can Tres, Formentera Check rates and availability at booking.com Hop on the ferry from Ibiza to Formentera, the barefoot baby of the Balearics, for endless sweeps of sand backed by dunes and pine trees, crystalline waters and a hippy-chic vibe. This is where jaded clubbers come to hide out – and eat (sustainable) sushi and ceviche washed down with caipirinhas by the beach. There's a slower pace of life on Ibiza's chilled-out little sister, with its peppering of traditional villages and a nightly market during the summer. Base yourself at Can Tres, a clutch of three architect-designed houses surrounded by citrus and olive trees, all hanging beds and heavenly hammocks, thatched terraces perfect for lazy breakfasts of fruit from the gardens, freshly baked bread and homemade jam, and vivid splashes of colour against a pure white canvas. It’s also just a pebble's throw from Migjorn beach with its smattering of funky beach bars and restaurants. cantresformentera.com Check rates and availability at booking.com More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
8 secret Mediterranean coastal escapes to visit before everyone else does
These are the Mediterranean secret spots for unspoilt beaches, clear blue seas and the perfect long-lunch restaurants
Hotspots such as Nice and Capri are popular for a reason – but there are plenty of other beachy Mediterranean getaways that can take you off the beaten track and away from the crowds. From Morocco to Albania, these are eight summer holiday-worthy places on our must-book list. For more travel inspiration, check out our picks of the 10 best Mediterranean islands for foodies and the best European city breaks. For a taste of the Mediterranean closer to home, book a table at one of London's best Mediterranean restaurants. 8 Mediterranean coastal escapes Cadaqués, Spain On the rugged Costa Brava in northeastern Catalonia, Cadaqués is a sun-drenched fishing town with an artistic edge, thanks to the great surrealist Salvador Dalí, who lived in the adjoining village of Port Lligat. His house is now a museum and one of the cultural highlights of a stay here. It’s easy to see where he got his inspiration from: whitewashed houses tumble down winding streets to a small harbour lined with grand cafés, seafood restaurants and views out to the Mediterranean. Our top food picks include Olibar, Talla and Batalla, which are all part of the same cool group of modern tapas restaurants. Compartir serves inventive plates inspired by the founders’ time at El Bulli, while Narita is a Japanese spot that makes the most of the daily catch. Away from the table, there are plenty of sheltered coves to explore and lots of great galleries and shops (we rate Pepa). To get to Cadaqués, you’ll need to traverse Cap de Creus natural park and wind down the twisty switchbacks that are the only way down to the bay. While you’re here, it’s well worth jumping on one of the 15-minute buses into the park itself. The views stretch to France, there are two beautiful, secluded beaches to swim at (Jugadora and Cala Culip), and you can spot some of the rock formations that inspired some of Dali’s most famous works. Read our guide to the best Spanish food trips for more ideas. Where to stay: Can Set overlooks the main bay. From the front bedrooms, you can look down at the beach below and across to the church that defines the Cadaqués skyline. The branded beach towels, provided in every room, are just what you’ll need for a day out here. Camogli, Italy On the Ligurian coast near Genoa, Camogli is a postcard-perfect alternative to Portofino. Known for its tall, pastel trompe l’oeil houses (where laundry often hangs from the windowsills), crescent-shaped pebble beach and easy-going harbour, it has all the charm of the Italian Riviera without the high-gloss finish. You’ll find lovely markets for fresh fruit and veg, old workshops dotted around, and a few small shops selling local linens and handmade ceramics. There’s plenty to do too: make sure you book onto a boat trip to nearby San Fruttuoso, a medieval abbey in a secluded cove. The nearby towns of Santa Margarita and Portofino make for lovely day trips. On the food front, La Camogliese is a little wooden beach hut offering fritto misto and trofie al pesto, a regional speciality. Above Camogli, in the hills of San Rocco, La Cucina Di Nonna Nina is a family run restaurant that serves very traditional Ligurian recipes. Historic Focacceria Revello is the spot to stop and buy focaccia di recco (with stracchino cheese), alongside pastries and other local delicacies for the ultimate beachside lunch. Where to stay: Cenobio Dei Dogi is the right side of retro. Built into the cliff edge overlooking the rocky sea beneath, it has amazing views of Camogli, its own small pebble beach and a great pool. Datça Peninsula, Turkey On Turkey’s southwest coast, the Datça Peninsula is a quieter and wilder alternative to Bodrum. 90 minutes from Dalaman airport, the peninsular is a meeting point for the Aegean and the Mediterranean. It’s home to almond groves, olive trees and a string of hidden coves with sapphire-like waters. Naturally, lots of the food and activities revolve around those groves. The Datça Vineyard & Winery olive farm makes for a fun day trip (and is a lovely place to stay), while almonds are scattered atop many of the region’s dishes. Many of these are best tried at Eski Meyhane in Datça itself – expect to sample the likes of stuffed courgette leaves, grilled octopus and sautéed spiced lamb. There’s a lovely, languorous rhythm to days here, which can be spent swimming, taking boat trips and having long lunches by the sea. Datça is also known for its hiking routes along the striking Carian Trail. There’s history here too: at the peninsula’s tip, the ancient ruins of Knidos add a cultural edge to any trip, while Eski Datça (Old Datça) is a charming village with narrow, bougainvillea-lined streets, stone houses and artisan shops. Where to stay: On its own private peninsula, D Maris Bay is one of Turkey’s most coveted hideaways. It’s surrounded by pine-covered mountains and overlooks five private beaches, which can be accessed by the hotel’s fleet of speedboats. New for 2026 are padel and pickleball courts, plus the hotel pool and its accessories have been branded by Dior for a third year. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2026/04/GettyImages-1291202682-008948d.jpg" width="683" height="512" alt="Knidos or Cnidus was a Greek city of ancient Caria and part of the Dorian Hexapolis, in south-western Asia Minor, modern-day Turkey. It was situated on the Datça peninsula, which forms the southern side of the Sinus Ceramicus, now known as Gulf of Gökova." title="Aerial view of Knidos Bay in Datca" /> Athens Riviera, Greece Stretching from chic coastal suburbs like Glyfada and Vouliagmeni right down to Cape Sounion, the Athens Riviera offers sandy beaches, stylish beach clubs and a smart dining scene. We rate Papaioannou, where the sea laps at the tables and the catch of the day is filleted tableside. We spent a very happy afternoon at Lake Vouliagmeni – a thermal, tidal lake set just back from the sea that’s become something of a low-key spa, thanks to the tiny fish that offer free pedicures if you dip your toes in for long enough. You could easily spend a full day here thanks to its sun loungers and café-restaurant set-up. Evenings call for sunset views at the Temple of Poseidon, which looks out to sea from Cape Sounion and was built around the same time as the Acropolis in Athens. You can also hop into the capital for day trips in just 30 minutes. The riviera is also home to Piraeus, which is where many ferries depart for islands such as Hydra, Milos and Spetses, making this the ideal starting point for any longer Greek escapes (see our picks for the best Greek island escapes). Where to stay: There are lots of lovely, high-end hotels here, but the grande dame is the Four Seasons Astir Palace (in its 1960s heyday, it hosted Brigitte Bardot, Frank Sinatra and Jackie Onassis). Discreetly tucked away at the tip of the pine-clad Vouliagmeni peninsula, this World’s 50 Best Hotel captures all the glamour of Greece. For something cool and contemporary, One&Only opened its striking Aesthesis property on the riviera two years ago, in the protected forest reserve of Glyfada. Ostia, Italy Just half an hour from Rome, Ostia is where Romans come to play against a backdrop of sandy beaches and retro lidos. It’s less polished than Italy’s smarter coastal hotspots, but that’s part of the appeal – and there’s a pleasing mix of eras and architecture. At the mouth of the River Tiber, many visitors come just for the sun and sea. You can choose to split your time between sunbathing at Lido di Ostia and watching for wildlife on the marina. Nearby Kursaal beach club is also well worth a look. It dates to the 1950s and remains locally famous because its pool was the backdrop to lots of acclaimed 1960s Italian films, such as I Vitelloni. Another highlight is exploring the remarkably preserved ruins of Ostia Antica, which is considered by many to be just as impressive as Pompeii (and without the crowds). Through mosaics, homes, baths and a theatre, it offers an immersive look at what life would have been like for Romans. After a morning exploring the archaeological park, head for lunch at Arianna al Borghetto, a trattoria serving Roman classics such as cacio e pepe and carbonara. Where to stay: La Posta Vecchia is part of the same independent group as Il Pelicano in Tuscany and Mezzatorre in Ischia. On the coast of Palo Laziale, under an hour away from Ostia, this is a gorgeous design-led hotel with sweeping views over the Tyrrhenian Sea and easy access to the Etruscan sites of Cerveteri and Tarquinia, as well as Rome airport. We've visited the best Italian hotels for more memorable getaways. Camargue, France In the Rhône delta in southern France, Camargue is an elemental counterpoint to the Côte d’Azur. It’s a Unesco-protected park of salt flats, wetlands and sweeping beaches, where thousands of flamingos gather and semi-wild white horses roam freely. This is the place to bookmark if you like an active trip away – popular activities include cycling through the lagoons, horseback riding along the shores of the Mediterranean, and soaking up the changing landscapes on a Jeep safari. At the centre of Camargue, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer offers a low-key base for long lunches and coastal walks along the 12km sea wall, which stretches out to Gacholle lighthouse. We like the look of Restaurant Chante Clair – a vintage-inspired bistro with a terrace that serves the likes of gougères, fish soup and moules-frites – and A Fleur de Sel, where owner Alexandra serves traditional French cooking with a touch of Provençal flair. Browse more of the best French food trips for more ideas. Where to stay: In a building dating from the 15th century, La Villa Mazarin sits within the fortified city of Aigues-Mortes, on the edge of Camargue. The 25 bedrooms are decorated differently – their charmingly old-school interiors feature oil paintings and antique furniture in keeping with the historic building. For something that’s both more rustic and more modern, Les Arnelles in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer offers a countryside escape – it even has its own stables. Taghazout, Morocco Just north of Agadir, Taghazout is a surf village with a bohemian edge. Once a low-key fishing spot, it’s now a laid-back favourite with creatives and in-the-know travellers who are drawn to its long sandy beaches, reliable waves and growing wellness scene. Killer Point, Banana Point, La Source and Anchor Point are the best surfing spots – and even if you don’t surf yourself, they’re great places to watch, swim and spend a morning with a book. Or there’s Paradise Valley – a series of lakes and waterfalls an hour away by car or bus. Taghazout is less polished than Marrakech, but all the more relaxed for it. As well as surfing, days revolve around yoga and slow lunches in rooftop cafés, while evenings make the most of sunsets overlooking the ocean. Our favourite places to eat include the hotel garden of World of Waves for a chilled breakfast, brunch or late-morning coffee, and Dar Joséphine for a French-leaning take on Moroccan cuisine. Check out our guide to the best Moroccan trips for foodies for more inspiration. Where to stay: There are a handful of big-name hotel groups here now, but we’d opt for Dfrost Almuga, a surfing and yoga-focused villa right on the water. Its optional ‘surf safaris’ run daily from 9am to 4pm, giving surfers of all levels a chance to get to know these wonderful waters. Vlorë, Albanian Riviera Unfurling along the Ionian Sea, the Albanian Riviera might be Europe’s most up-and-coming destination. With its turquoise waters, rugged mountains and clusters of mellow beach towns, it’s a fresh and beguiling alternative to the Mediterranean’s better-known hotspots. Days are best spent hopping between bays, from the lively shores of Dhërmi to the beaches around Ksamil, with scenic drives along Llogara Pass. For a base, Vlorë offers a compelling mix of beach and culture. Its coastline ranges from central stretches like Plazhi i Vjetër to quieter southern spots, where hotels often have their own private areas. Beyond the beach, the city’s layered history – shaped by Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman influences – is reflected in its architecture and landmarks. Food is another highlight. Drawing on Turkish, Greek and Italian traditions, the local cuisine is fresh, flavourful and distinctly Mediterranean, often featuring Vlonjak olives, which are among the oldest in Europe. Paradise Beach has been a Vlorë go-to for almost three decades, thanks to its seafood prepped Mediterranean and Italian style right by the sea. Taverna Ti Lilo is another must-book for its grilled fish and calamari in rustic surroundings. Where to stay: Hotel Vlora Priam has the Meliá seal of approval. On Vlorë Bay, it’s surrounded by the azure waters of the Adriatic, which are best admired from the rooftop pool and bar. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2026/04/GettyImages-912923408-5be57ad.jpg" width="788" height="443" alt="Ksamil is one of the most popular beaches in Albania and much visited by both domestic and foreign tourists. It is located in the south of Albania, on the Albanian rivièra. It is located just next to the famous archaeological city of Butrint." title="Crystal clear waters of Ksamil, Albanian rivièra, Albania" /> More travel guides 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Nice: where a local eats and drinks in France's chic southern city
From picture-perfect pastries to special occasion dinners, this is where to go in Nice
Looking for the best gourmet spots in Nice? Insider Alexane says: “I grew up in Nice and still live here, so I know the city’s food scene inside out. Nice isn’t just about the views, it’s about the bites! Now working as a food and travel content creator, I spend most of my time discovering new spots, but these are the places I always come back to and the ones I recommend to friends without hesitation. These hidden gems are my favourites and, trust me, once you try them, you’ll be hooked, too.” For more travel inspiration, check out our guides to the best French food trips and the best hotels in Paris. A local’s best restaurants in Nice Grab breakfast at La 36eme Chambre La 36eme Chambre is one of my favourite brunch spots in Nice when I want something a little different. Tucked away near Libération, it’s a small coffee shop that blends French brunch dishes with Japanese and Korean influences – think fluffy pancakes, onigiri and more. I love coming here when I’m craving something comforting but unexpected. @la_36eme_chambre Enjoy a sunny lunch at Le Local Le Local is the kind of place you almost wish you lived next to. It’s relaxed, seasonal and always buzzing with regulars. The menu features Italian-Mediterranean fare and changes often depending on what’s fresh, with simple, generous plates done really well. The pasta is always incredible! I love coming here for a long lunch with a glass of wine on the terrace. @le_local_nice Have a date night at Le Bistrot de Jan If you want classic French bistro vibes with a twist, this is the spot. Just next door to its Michelin-starred big brother, Restaurant JAN, Le Bistrot de Jan feels like dinner at a chic friend’s house. The menu mixes beloved French favourites (tournedos Rossini, sole meunière) with playful nods to chef Jan Hendrik’s South African roots. janonline.com Get French wine at Au Coeur des Terroirs Forget basic wine nights! Au Coeur des Terroirs is one of my favourite places in Nice to actually learn about, taste and geek out over wine. The cute wine bar and shop doubles as a tasting room, where knowledgeable hosts guide you through French terroirs with flights, rare bottles and perfect food pairings. aucoeurdesterroirs.com Head to Pistache for delicious pastries If you think all pastries in France are the same, think again! Pistache proves that neighbourhood bakeries can still surprise you. Everything here is beautifully made, from classic croissants to its signature pistachio-laden delights (hence the name). I usually grab a flaky pastry, then wander toward the port and sit watching the pointus – the colourful, pointed wooden fishing boats that have been a staple of the Côte d’Azur for generations. nicepistache.com Locals’ best-kept secret for pan bagnat If you’re after a real taste of Nice while on the go, Chez Félix is the place. This local favourite is known for some of the city’s best pan bagnat – the classic 'sandwich niçois' of moist bread filled with fresh veg, tuna, eggs and lots of olive oil, all prepared to order. I like to swing by for a lunch that I can grab and take to the park in front to watch the world go by. It’s the closest thing to a local rite of passage in Nice. The cutest coffee shop in Nice Caffè Orso is a charming, Italian-inspired coffee shop and pasticceria that brings a touch of dolce vita to the Riviera. Serving coffee roasted using Italian beans alongside an ever-changing selection of handmade pastries, it’s the perfect spot to relax. Don’t miss the homemade focaccia and baci. caffeorso.com Enjoy fine dining at Le Patio Tucked inside La Pérouse hotel, Le Patio is a gorgeous spot with a terrace set beneath century-old lemon trees, and with sweeping views over the bay. It feels like your very own Riviera hideaway. The menu, crafted by chef Damien Andrews, focuses on refined Mediterranean cuisine with seasonal, sun-soaked flavours. It’s perfect for a special occasion. hotel-la-perouse.com/restaurant-bar-terrasse Italian flair at Apulia Italian food in Nice is not just pizza and gelato – this restaurant truly celebrates the flavours of Puglia, with dishes that are simple, sun-kissed and absolutely delicious. Think: fresh burrata with ripe tomatoes, orecchiette with greens and olive oil and delicious limoncello spritzes. apuliabistro.fr The best French classics at Le Napoléon This old-school brasserie serves hearty favourites like boeuf bourguignon, duck confit and perfectly seared fish, all paired with a great wine list and warm service. It’s the kind of place I bring friends to when they want to try proper French cooking. lenapoleon-nice.fr More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Porto Best restaurants in Malaga Best restaurants in San Sebastian
10 best hotels for a sun-soaked Mediterranean getaway
Soak up the sunshine in these stunning hotels across Italy, France, Spain and more
Sun, warmth and long, languid days — the Mediterranean does it better than anywhere. The right hotel can turn a good holiday into a great one, whether that’s a countryside retreat surrounded by olive groves, a design-led boutique hotel in a historic town, or a laid-back bolthole with an outstanding swimming pool. We’ve picked 10 of the best hotels across the Med for a truly sun-soaked escape, from Greek island favourites to Italian classics and lesser-known gems. For more travel inspiration, check out our picks of the 10 best Mediterranean islands for foodies and best French food trips. For a taste of the Mediterranean closer to home, book a table at one of London's best Mediterranean restaurants. 10 best hotels for a sun-soaked Mediterranean getaway Lou Calen, Provence, France From £200 a night, check availability at booking.com or loucalen.com Relaxation is taken seriously at this rustic chic country estate, an eco-friendly, nature-led retreat steeped in history and Provençal elegance that makes the perfect sunny summer getaway. The grounds are lush with greenery: vines from which you’re encouraged to pluck grapes, heady lavender fields to amble through and gardens where produce for the kitchen is grown, all interspersed with pools and relaxation areas. Restaurants are dotted around the estate, with Lou Calen Bistrot as an elegant option for dinner. Sit on the terrace with a pear liqueur spritz as the sun sets behind the Cotignac hills, before tucking into the likes of pork ribs with hand-cut fries and housemade BBQ sauce. For a special occasion, book an evening at Jardin Secret Restaurant to try a tasting menu of elevated Provençal cuisine celebrating seasonal ingredients from Alain Ducasse alumni Benoît Witz. For casual brews and bites, La Tuf Festive Bar offers house-brewed beers using seasonal ingredients such as mimosa flowers, and regular pizza and taco nights. Finish the night in the O’Fadoli Pastis Bar, with over 80 anisette and pastis varieties to try. For a retreat in nature you can stay in the Mico Hamlet – a collection of converted châteaux, some with bedrooms carved into limestone caves. The Providence rooms exude French farmhouse chic with luxuriously large beds, free-standing baths, waterfall showers and locally made olive oil toiletries. The hotel has an ever-changing calendar of things to do to keep you busy in the sunshine, from sound baths to concerts, clay-modelling and watercolour painting. Next door, visit the Centre d’Art La Falaise to admire the art before popping down to the Mirabeau winery for a tasting experience – grapes are farmed regeneratively to produce refreshing wine. From £200 a night, check availability at booking.com or loucalen.com Vetera Matera, Basilicata, Italy From £220 per night, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or veteramatera.com Nestled among Matera’s ancient caves, this boutique retreat from Relais & Châteaux brings quiet five-star luxury to Italy’s oldest city. The 23-room hotel is built into the Sassi di Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, blending the ruggedness of the mountains with plush modern interiors. Rooms on the Noble Floors have a contemporary feel, with high ceilings, exposed brick and large windows that offer panoramic views of the Sassi. For a more immersive Matera experience, stay in the Hypogeum where the underground suites are carved directly into the ancient rock. Three of the master suites also have private pools. Expect dishes that pay homage to Basilicata produce at Artema Ristorante, where two tasting menus are on offer from chef Eduardo Estatico (à la carte is available for parties with three guests or fewer). Stand-outs include a soufflé paired with Vesuvian costoluto and yellow cherry tomatoes, and Murgia goat mozzarella, as well as rockfish soup with sweet and sour vegetable terrine, seaweed and Matera sourdough bread. Salads, sandwiches and charcuterie are served in the Lounge Bar for casual lunches and dinners. Breakfast consists of a buffet of breads, pastries, cereals, fruit, yogurt or Med vegetables and Italian cheeses for a savoury option, as well as fresh juices and coffee. The hotel spa is a highlight. The largest of its kind in the Sassi, the Elysium Spa is home to hydropools, a caldarium, sauna, hammam and cold plunge pool, as well as treatment rooms for massages and facials. Wine tastings can be also booked in the cellar, where an expert sommelier will guide you through labels from around the region and beyond. From £220 per night, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or veteramatera.com Argos in Cappadocia, Turkey From €375 per night, check availability at booking.com or argosincappadocia.com Luxury pays homage to the primeval past at this extraordinary cave hotel in the hilltop village of Uçhisar, the highest to demark the volcanic moonscapes and fairy chimney landforms of Cappadocia. The contemporary mingles seamlessly but strikingly with the ancient throughout Argos in Cappadocia’s spaces. Most of the hotel’s 71 rooms are architectural hybrids, making use of caves hewn into the rocky hillside (often millennia ago), interlaced with contemporary stone frontages. Rooms described as standard are anything but. Suites may take the form of single-storey warrens, with barrel-vaulted stone sitting areas concealing cave-hewn grotto bedrooms; others are duplex, with rooftop balconies spilling out onto the hillside. Some have their own pool or hot tub. Nahita is the first farm-to-table restaurant in the region, where all ingredients are sourced from within a 60km radius. The menu centres on the reclamation of the ancient, traditional and local: think succulent lamb cooked in a tandoor for 12 hours, aubergine testi (dough-sealed clay cooking pots) kebabs and pillowy, smoke-scented breads. An array of savoury sweet-sour salads, drenched in viscous, clingy dressings, is an unexpected highlight too. Pan-Mediterranean sister restaurant Seki also retains Nahita’s commitment to local sourcing. Served in Nahita, breakfast is a feast for the senses, with breads, pastries, salads, dips, meats, cheeses, fruits, nuts and cereals presented on patterned ceramics. The cooked to-order menu offers classic Turkish fare like menemen: eggs scrambled with spices and tomatoes. Argos’s cave spa offers guests a surreal sojourn into a world of subterranean escapism, while dining privately in the hotel’s ancient converted monastery, though an indulgent add-on, represents a truly one of a kind gastronomic experience. For oenophiles there’s also the largest natural underground wine cellar in Europe, with accompanying pickle room. From €375 per night, check availability at booking.com or argosincappadocia.com Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno, Catalonia, Spain Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at masdenbruno.com, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com In the vine-laced hills of Catalonia’s Priorat region, Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno is a bold reimagining of the traditional Spanish manor house. Once a 12th-century estate, this Relais & Châteaux property now houses 24 suites that strike a harmonious balance between monastic calm and contemporary elegance. Think arched stone walls, custom-made furniture, cool marble interiors, local ceramics and an infinity pool in the silhouette of a wine bottle that is the perfect place to while away a sunny afternoon. At Vinum, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant in the main building, chef Josep Queralt elevates local ingredients with quiet precision. The Sent Soví tasting menu is inspired by a medieval recipe book from 1324 and one of the earliest records of Catalan gastronomy. Standout dishes include candied leeks with Bellmunt del Priorat cottage cheese and confit egg yolk, and poultry broth enriched with roasted Reus hazelnuts. Poolside Tarraco is a more relaxed space serving the likes of watermelon and tomato gazpacho, citrus-cured sea bass ceviche and creamy rice layered with ibérico pork loin and Piquillo peppers. At Bruno’s Bar bespoke cocktails and robust Priorat reds are served beside sculptural fireplaces and a terrace that spills into the landscape. Book Bruno’s Suite for its vaulted ceilings, panoramic vineyard views, freestanding bath and olive oil based local amenities. The in-room bar (yes, a full bar, no mini here) is stocked with bold regional wines and snacks sourced from nearby artisans. Breakfast is a lavish yet unfussy affair: cooked-to-order eggs, flaky ensaïmadas, cheeses from Montsant farms and house-made compotes. The cellar-level spa is an atmospheric sanctuary offering grape seed treatments, while cycling enthusiasts can borrow the hotel’s electric bikes, making Priorat’s undulating hills a little more forgiving. Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at masdenbruno.com, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Eliamos, Kefalonia, Greece From £650, check rates and availability at eliamos.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Eliamos is an all-villa hotel that blends privacy with five-star hotel luxury and uninterrupted views of the Ionian Sea. Designed to feel like a home away from home, 12 secluded villas are set on the hillside, divided by lavender-lined paths to create a village atmosphere. Expect high ceilings and open beams, generous bathrooms with olive oil toiletries to use in waterfall showers and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors opening onto private terraces with saltwater pools that boast uninterrupted sea views. The on-site open-air restaurant Olais (named after the birds that visit the surrounding olive trees) forms the heart of Eliamos, with all meals enjoyed outdoors with views of the sea, Wake up early to watch the sunrise for breakfast here, where the à la carte menu includes a range of egg dishes and avocado on toast variations, along with Greek specialities such as bougatsa thessalonikis (vanilla cream and cinnamon filled pastries), fresh pita and pancakes with local honey and apricot jam. Enjoy impressive salads at lunch and Kefalonian specialities for dinner, from tomato fritters to Kreatopita (meat pie) with layers of crunchy pastry and tender ragu. Unwind with in-room spa treatments, walk down a secret path to the secluded beach cove or hop on an e-bike to explore the island. The open-air gym is great for an outdoor workout or guided Pilates class. For a hands-on experience, join a Mediterranean cookery class on the Olais restaurant patio. From £650, check rates and availability at eliamos.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Villa Paola, Tropea, Italy Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, check availability at villapaolatropea.it or booking.com Discover rustic luxury at Villa Paola, a pink-hued former 16th-century convent set among the cliffs and hills of Calabria at the southern tip of Italy. From crisp white linen bedding to cool marble bathrooms, a secluded infinity pool and serene courtyards, it is the perfect location for some R&R in the sunshine. Terraces look out to the Costa Degli Dei (coast of the gods) and over the farmland below, where the restaurant grows a lot of its produce. Meander down through the tiered gardens to the hotel’s own hives, and spot Tropea’s famous red onions. Superior rooms overlook the hills of Tropea and Parghelia, just off the main courtyard, with bird song to gently wake you and white wooden shutters to throw open in the morning. Deluxe rooms offer more sweeping panoramas of the towns, the executive room has a private terrace with views straight out to sea, and the Eremita suite has its own Turkish bath as well as a veranda. There’s a bistro-style menu on offer during the day with dishes such as sourdough pizzas, red onion salads and club sandwiches. Enjoy an aperitivo overlooking the sea after spending time on the beach or wandering around Tropea. De’ Minimi restaurant offers more refined tasting menus, meticulously designed with seasonality at the forefront and an emphasis on local produce and zero waste. There are various menus but think charcoal-grilled spaghettone with artichoke, fresh sea trout with beetroot and hay, and, to finish, a dessert of goat’s curd ice cream and local honey. At breakfast, a three-tiered stand of daily-changing treats arrives to the table for enjoying with your morning cappuccino. There’s also a continental buffet of fruit, pastries and cakes, with à la carte options including omelettes and local honey, which is the star of the show here – make sure to load your yogurt with a generous drizzle. Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, check availability at villapaolatropea.it or booking.com Iniala Harbour House, Valletta, Malta Doubles from £463 per night, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Malta's capital city Valletta is one of our new favourite destinations, and still somehow feels like a hidden gem – plus, it's one of Europe's sunniest destinations, with over 300 days of sunshine a year. For five-star luxury, stay at Iniala Harbour House. Situated right on the harbour front, it's the perfect base for exploring the vibrant city. Made up of four discreet townhouses, there are a range of luxurious rooms and decadent suites to choose from. Rooms and suites within each of the houses vary by design, from bold splashes of colour and eclectic artwork to moody wooden panelling and custom tapestries. The best rooms come complete with private plunge pools and Maltese balconies to sit and watch the boats go by. Enjoy an atmospheric massage in the spa set in the hotel's historic stone vaults or cross the road for holiday fitness in the fully equipped gym. Book a reservation at Ion Harbour, Simon Rogan's two Michelin-starred restaurant on the rooftop, to enjoy a 12 course tasting menu. Run by Simon Rogan of L'Enclume in the Lake District, the restaurant aims to carry the principles of L'Enclume over to Malta. There is a strong focus on sustainability, working with small local producers and a specialist head of sustainability, forager Keith Abela, to make the most of lesser known local plants and herbs. Breakfast is also served on the rooftop with a short menu of classics to choose from – order an omelette to your liking and pair with a fresh green juice while soaking up the sun. Doubles from £463 per night, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Casa Cook, Rhodes, Greece Rooms from €209, check availability at casacook.com or booking.com Tucked into the mountain-fringed landscape near Kolymbia, Casa Cook Rhodes is an adults-only retreat that blends soulful design with a connection to nature and community. The hotel's architecture leans into simplicity – whitewashed structures, organic textures and calming pools merge beautifully with olive trees and rugged hillsides. Every room has a unique offering but the shared pool suites are particularly clever – semi-private thanks to verandas and greenery. Casa Cook takes the Greek concept of parea – a gathering of friends sharing ideas and moments – and infuses it into every aspect, from the communal tables at its Kitchen Club restaurant to the layout of its pools. Food is fresh and thoughtful, with a focus on seasonal ingredients. Breakfast is a standout: local honey, thick yogurt and freshly baked breads sit alongside international options. The Freddo, a blended iced coffee, is also not one to miss. For lunch, Olive restaurant offers a relaxed, poolside setting serving meze plates. Come evening the beach bar pulses with laid-back DJ sets, the ideal backdrop to sip on sweet local Rhodian melitio wine. Wellness is central here: morning yoga sessions, a tranquil spa and the ever-present backdrop of the mountains create an atmosphere of serene escape. For those seeking a bit more adventure, climb up to the Tsambika Monastery. Along the way you’ll brush shoulders with mountain goats pecking at olive trees until reaching a hilltop with panoramic views across the island’s landscape, where mountains roll into turquoise bays. Rooms from €209, check availability at casacook.com or booking.com Royal Hideaway Corales Villas, Tenerife Doubles from £297, check availability at booking.com or britishairways.com Framed by panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and bold volcanic peaks, this boutique luxury hotel in the south of Tenerife offers a holistic experience designed for those wanting to recharge and disconnect in the sunshine. It’s sleek and minimalist, a neutral colour palette taking inspiration from the rugged landscape of the island. Large windows and a pool framed with palm trees further the hotel’s spirit of reconnecting with nature. Junior suites have Nordic-inspired interiors, swim-up pools and sea views. For further privacy the two-bedroom deluxe suites or two- and three-bedroom villas are spacious yet secluded, all equipped with a kitchen, vast terrace, private pool and outdoor lounge areas. At the spa, book highly personalised treatments or spend time in the fully equipped gym, sauna and yoga patio. Restaurant Bonfire boasts 360-degree island views and light bites such as beetroot carpaccio with feta and grilled almonds, caviar and smoked seabass sandwiches, and steak tartare with grilled bone marrow. For elevated dining, Crater serves two set menus, each paying homage to a different island in the Canaries. Signature cocktails at Materia Elemental Bar are inspired by the four elements – earth, water, fire and air – enriched with subtle Canary Island influences. Alternatively, book paella from scratch cooked in your villa by a private chef. Expect a lavish breakfast buffet each morning with Canarian cheeses, cured meats, breads and pastries, plus a smoothie bar, hot crispy churros and eggs in any style. There’s even an option to have a floating tray breakfast in your private pool. Doubles from £297, check availability at booking.com or britishairways.com Les Sources de Caudalie, France Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Twenty minutes’ drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the epitome of French country chic. There’s a stone manor house at its heart, a small lake, and a hard-working kitchen garden, plus a hamlet-like extension of suites. Great food and wine are the focus at this gastronomic getaway, but even the finest dining (the hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, holds two Michelin stars) is done without fuss. The newer, cabin-like suites (designed to reflect the oyster fishermen’s huts of Cap Ferret, in the nearby Arcachon Basin), with their whitewashed timber walls, retro-influenced furniture and spa-like bathrooms, are the ones to splash out on; in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by frogs as you return to your room along flower- and water-lined pathways. In the mornings, step onto your private terrace to soak up the sunshine and watch carthorses ploughing the vines just outside. The three restaurants at Les Sources have most tastes covered. Celebrate a special occasion with dinner in La Grand’Vigne and enjoy a meal where even the table salts stick in the memory (one of ours, blended with Bordeaux pimento, was the colour of roast peppers). The cheeseboard comes with fresh cottage cheese, from a local dairy, served with a dot of cherry jam. Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
European hidden gems: must-visit hotels off the beaten track
From a vineyard to undiscovered beaches in Portugal and waterside Scandinavian boltholes, these are the best hidden gem hotels in Europe
Looking for a gourmet getaway that is off the beaten track? We're sharing some of our favourite hotels and havens in places you might not have visited yet across Europe. Head to the wildlife-rich wetlands outside Amsterdam to stay at a 17th-century inn, discover a tiny Tuscan island, stay at a luxurious Sicilian farmhouse or experience French countryside chic in a hidden cabin. Read on to discover all our best European hidden gems. For more travel inspiration, check out our picks of the best Italian hotels, best Spanish hotels and the best European city breaks for foodies. For UK travel inspiration, check out our picks of the best country house hotels in the UK and the best hotel baths worth travelling for. La Borde en Sologne Châteaux & Spa, Vernou-en-Sologne, France Doubles from €220, check availability at booking.com or laborde-sologne.fr Tucked into the sleepy Loire Valley village of Vernou-en-Sologne, La Borde en Sologne Châteaux & Spa is a quietly luxurious countryside retreat, drawing couples and slow-travel seekers with its elegant, unfussy charm and sense of seclusion. Rooms are individually styled, blending traditional features with contemporary comfort. Expect soft linens, muted tones and views across the surrounding woodland or gardens. Some rooms offer baths or private terraces, ideal for a more indulgent stay, while thoughtful touches like locally sourced toiletries and well stocked minibars add to the sense of place. The on-site restaurant, Mémoire, is a highlight, with a seasonal menu rooted in the Loire Valley. Think delicately prepared river fish, garden-led vegetable dishes and refined takes on classic French plates. The wine list leans local, showcasing the region’s crisp whites and lighter reds, while the bar offers a relaxed spot for an apéritif or nightcap. In summer the terraces come into their own, with drinks and light bites served outdoors overlooking the gardens. Breakfast is a generous spread of pastries, fresh breads, local cheeses and preserves, alongside cooked to order eggs and seasonal fruit. Doubles from €220, check availability at booking.com or laborde-sologne.fr De Durgerdam, Netherlands Doubles from £312, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com A 15-minute drive or boat ride from Amsterdam city centre, De Durgerdam is a collection of colourful clapboard houses strung along a dike in the rural wildlife-rich wetlands. At its centre a 17th-century inn has been meticulously restored into a stylish restaurant with rooms. Perch on a parasol-shaded bench out front for coffee and madeleines, while folk cycle past on a country escape, before sauntering down the jetty to swim off the pontoon. The destination restaurant, De Mark, is a collaboration between some of Amsterdam’s most applauded chefs. Dine waterside among the reeds or head inside for cosy, candlelit dinners with nods to the sea at every turn. The cocktail list twists classics with the likes of spiced honey sours while the nautical take on a caesar salad tosses North Sea crab with sea herbs and shavings of Dutch parmesan. A hot skillet of grilled tarragonbrined chicken is best paired with skin-on crispy chips to mop up the salted lemon jus, before a coupe of strawberries macerated in Dutch herbal liquor. Post-meal, retire to the reading room – a terracotta cocoon complete with antique honesty bar, alluring window seat and wood stove to keep things cosy in the colder months. The 14 rooms are sumptuously decorated in warm, earthy tones with velvet throws, frilly wall lamps and armchairs. There’s a commitment to sourcing everything from the Netherlands, from Zenology products to use in the walk-in showers to Dutch herbal teas, stroopwafels and fisherman’s jenever for sipping in the garden while watching the sun set over the wetlands. The three suites, built into the main building’s characterful eaves, even come with blue Kassl raincoats for walks to the neighbouring farm’s milk tap. Doubles from £312, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Le Barn, Bonnelles, France Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com If you’re looking for a taste of serenity without the burden of long travel, Le Barn, set in France’s Bonnelles countryside, should be high on your wishlist. Just 40 minutes from Paris Orly airport, the 500-acre estate offers an outdoors experience with comfort and luxury. The grounds are shared with Haras de la Cense, a prestigious horse riding training centre, and there are horses dotted around the vast space, as well as the option to go riding or try the Whisperer’s Experience. Guests are shown the basics of horse training and invited to try what they’ve learned with one of the many animals on site. This hotel is all about switching off and enjoying nature. Digital detoxing is easy when there are warm Nordic baths, a steam room, sauna, electric bikes, forest walks and weekly activities all included in the price. Wind down for the evening with a drink by the fire in the colder months, or under a canopy of wisteria in the garden in summer. Food is seasonally led, using as much as possible from the kitchen garden and locally sourced produce. The menu changes daily, according to what’s available, but dishes can include stuffed rotisserie chicken or roasted leg of lamb, with sides of roasted carrots, leeks and potatoes. Desserts are a treat not to be missed, including the likes of tarte aux figues and iles flottantes. Breakfast is a satisfyingly French affair: crusty bread, salty butter and homemade jams alongside eggs, bacon and pancakes. Fruit from the grounds is piled high in bowls, including huge grapes and Mirabelle plums. The 73 rooms are separate from the main farmhouse building, mostly spread across two converted barns, and provide a cosy home for your stay, with balconies that look over the horses grazing in the fields or the lake (which you can swim in). There is a big emphasis on freedom at Le Barn, meaning guests can choose how to tailor their stay and, with most activities included in the room price, it works out very reasonably. Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com La Guardia, Tuscany Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Giglio, the second largest island in the Tuscan archipelago, is lush with clifftop vineyards, fig trees and pines. The serene and stylish seaside retreat, La Guardia, is perched atop a granite cave along from the pastel-hued harbour. Brushed concrete and original stone columns are softened with driftwood decorations and wispy wicker lanterns that gently flutter in the Mediterranean breeze. Chic neutral tones continue through to the rooms, all kitted out with luxury Sicilian Ortigia toiletries and many boasting balconies and sea views. Book the junior suite to embrace the elements with a bathroom built into the granite and a beachside terrace for watching the waves lap against the rocks. Mediterranean flavours and island cuisine are served in the on-site restaurant – sip on a Venetian Select spritz at aperitivo hour before a candlelit dinner of Sicilian anchovies, palamita fish with marinated courgettes, and tagliolini with lemon butter and bottarga. The 70-strong wine list showcases rare bottles from Italy’s islands – Giglio, Ischia, Salina and beyond. Breakfast includes the likes of prosciutto, omelettes with Tuscan cheese, homemade fig bread and freshly squeezed juices. There are sunset yoga sessions on the terrace, healing zen shiatsu and Ayurvedic treatments, and e-bikes to explore the island’s rugged trails, cliff-face vineyards and restaurants in medieval castles. Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Hotel Bohinj, Slovenia Doubles from £186 per night, check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com This striking eco retreat stands majestically above Slovenia’s largest lake, its larch wood structure designed to imitate the mountainous backdrop. There’s a distinct alpine feel, complete with roaring fireplace, animal hides and traditional ski equipment in the lobby, while the expansive lake-view lawn is scattered with blanket-covered chairs for huddling around firepits well into the night. Floor-to-ceiling windows fill the all-day restaurant with light, or opt for a spot on the terrace with dramatic views in all directions. Contemporary twists on local fare take centre stage – buckwheat flour dumplings with sweet pumpkin purée, Bohinj trout with cauliflower, and upstream flander with pea purée – while pungent local mohant cheese is whipped into the must-order tangy cheesecake. Wines by the glass include Slovenia’s renowned sparkling istenič prestige, the Istrian peninsula’s malvazija and a fruity red from the Vipava Valley. Rooms are simple larch-lined cocoons with pops of alpine chic to add character – craggy peak-shaped lights carved into headboards, the hotel’s mountain hiker motif embossed into cushions and fur throws on bucket seats from which you can gaze out over the lake. Each night includes two hours in the spa, complete with saunas, salt room and outdoor whirlpool to soak up mountain views. Walnuts, dried fruits and regional herbal teas are strategically placed at the end of a ‘natural floor’ corridor, over which guests are encouraged to walk barefoot for grounding. The buffet breakfast is a selection of cold cuts, cheeses and yogurts from local cooperatives as well as seasonal fruits, homemade smoothies and eggs any-style on freshly baked toast. Doubles from £186 per night, check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Casa Modesta, Portugal Doubles from €220 per night, check availability at booking.com or welcomebeyond.com In the heart of a residential hamlet on the border of the Algarve’s Ria Formosa lagoon, Carlos Fernandes has lovingly converted his grandparents’ house into a striking example of cubist architecture, now home to a nine-room boutique hotel. Many original features remain – Santa Catarina flooring, curved brick ceilings and stone fireplaces – interspersed with tasteful Algarvian knick-knacks for pops of colour. Four rooms are housed in the striking whitewashed extension, complete with terraces that offer swoony sunsets over the wetlands. Blankets and bespoke toiletries are curated from local artisans, while shower tiles are from nearby town Olhão (worth a visit for the impressive fish market). Continental breakfast is served home-style, laid on lace tablecloths in the kitchen. Make your selection from the likes of carrot and saffron bundt cake, fruits hand-plucked from the property, and Portuguese cold cuts – order your preference of eggs and take to the poolside terrace to enjoy beneath the dappled shade of the trees. Come evening, chef Alexandre works with local producers to put on intimate dinners using ingredients picked from the on-site pomegranate trees, fruit orchard and vegetable patch. There’s even a dedicated tea section in the herb garden – lemongrass, lemon verbena and chocolate mint. For those who prefer something stronger, an honesty bar is stocked with Algarvian wines and Portuguese spirits. Enjoy beside the original 1964 oven, still used during winter to cook chorizo bread. Sunbathe among the garden’s cork furniture, read in the shade of the replica regional fisherman’s hut, or cycle along the Fuseta eco trail in the neighbouring wetlands, home to oyster farms, eclectic birds and two families of flamingos. casamodesta.pt Doubles from €220 per night, check availability at booking.com or welcomebeyond.com Wiesergut, Saalbach-Hinterglemm, Austria Check rates and availability at wiesergut.com or booking.com Set at 1,000 metres above sea level, Wiesergut is a family-run boutique hideaway, surrounded by snow-dusted peaks and tucked into the quiet valley of Hinterglemm. The hotel sits directly at the foot of the Zwölferkogel lift station, offering effortless access to the slopes above, yet the village remains relatively quiet and peaceful. Style leans towards minimalist Alpine chic – warm timber, sweeping floor-to-ceiling windows, private gardens, in-room fireplaces and steaming outdoor hot tubs – yet the atmosphere remains warm and easy-going. Families, couples and solo travellers are all made to feel at home. The heated outdoor pool with hot tub jets and mountain views is the focal point of the hotel, with outdoor fire pits lit in the evenings for a magical end to the day. Wiesergut began as an Alpine hut offering home-produced snacks and refuge to travellers, and farm-to-fork eating still sits at the heart of life here. The menu includes herbs and vegetables from the hotel’s garden, matured cheeses from neighbouring farms, and breads baked in-house. Every evening you’ll find a changing tasting menu centred around seasonal ingredients and comforting Austrian classics such as beef goulash with pickles, soured cream and chives, or veal schnitzel with lingonberries. There are 24 rooms including the Manor, Garden and Hideaway suites, plus a separate mountain villa including a loft that sleeps up to six. Garden suites offer bright, spacious rooms with high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a private sun terrace with hot tub. The open living area with wood-burning stove and locally crafted furnishings is the perfect place to watch the sunset behind the mountains. The bathroom sits on a separate level with modern wood-and-marble finishes, plus there’s a freestanding bath in the bedroom for ultimate opulence. Breakfasts are an event in themselves. Guests can choose from an abundance of cheeses, freshly baked breads, fruits and freshly squeezed juices served from an à la carte trolley, or enjoy freshly laid eggs cooked to order. Check rates and availability at wiesergut.com or booking.com Le Doyenne, Île-de-France, France Doubles from €265 per night, check availability at ledoyennerestaurant.com The allure of Le Doyenné is its remoteness. A small working farm and restaurant with a handful of charming bedrooms just 40 minutes south of Paris, this magical countryside escape is best enjoyed as a bolt-on to a Parisian weekend away. The expansive dining room is very much at the heart of the estate, surrounded by gardens which supply the kitchen. The 11 bedrooms are a considered mixture of traditional French farmhouse details (think terracotta tiles and antique furniture) and modern luxury finishes (plush beds and roll-top baths). Room 108 is the biggest – with two floors it easily sleeps a family of four. High ceilings and huge windows create an elegant penthouse feel with verdant green views. It’s the perfect place to sit for an evening aperitif. Despite the prestige of the restaurant, the atmosphere is incredibly laid back. A daily set menu showcases the best local produce, and dishes are refined but not fussy – emphasis is put on flavour. The crudités du jardin is a highlight, each raw vegetable or flower accented with a clever sauce or seasoning. The rotating main course may be local duck cooked over coal or chicken with new-season asparagus and girolles. Breakfast is a tempting array of viennoiserie, yogurt, granola and cold meats. The hot menu might feature Turkish eggs or anchovy tartines with salad. Anything else? Peek in the Le Doyenné shop, filled with homemade breads, books and pottery. Doubles from €265 per night, check availability at ledoyennerestaurant.com San Canzian, Croatia Doubles from £303, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or mrandmrssmith.com Tucked away in northern Istria’s foliage-rich hills is this medieval hamlet turned intimate boutique hotel, San Canzian. The 28 rooms are decorated in soft, muted tones pepped up with 15th-century vintage furniture and vibrant beeswax canvases. Elegant on-site restaurant Luciano is strategically placed so guests can enjoy an aperitif from the 600-strong wine cellar as the sky turns pink over the olive trees, Adriatic Sea and Dolomites in the distance. Executive chef Pavo Klaric works homegrown and local ingredients into contemporary spins on traditional Istrian dishes – polenta-crusted cod on pine nut cream, rabbit slow cooked in red wine, and agnolotti pasta filled with young Istrian curd. After a breakfast of cured ham, crumbly cheese and fruits plucked from the abundant estate, take laps of the pool or pad down to the serene spa complete with Finnish sauna and candlelit hot tub. Doubles from £303, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or mrandmrssmith.com Nordelaia, Piedmont Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Nordelaia is all about equilibrium: between tradition and modernity; simplicity and indulgence; the boundlessness of nature and the cosy, uplifting comfort of home. It lies within a hilly swathe of rural Piedmont – a region which itself represents a kind of geographical middle ground, suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800-year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are at once contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, while freestanding baths in the bedroom areas add a dose of opulence. On the first floor, the four rooms are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes by which Nordelaia, from its woody hillside perch, is engulfed: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn, and pearly whites in the winter. Two outdoor pools – one heated, one not, but both with views for miles – entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its warm stone floors, barrel-vaulted brick ceiling and stone arches, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Beyond the walls, Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here chef Charles Pearce pays stunning homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and to the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. The two coalesce inventively in his take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta that Charles instead pairs with barbecue-kissed prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a lip-smacking tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms, served with a deeply savoury anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Brosundet, Ålesund, Norway Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The motto for this waterside boutique hotel is “curated luxury, the Norwegian way”. Set amid Norway’s striking fjords, Brosundet is housed in a set of converted warehouses perched on a cobblestone walkway beside Ålesund’s main waterway. Design geeks will love the unique features and original round windows of the loft suites as well as the one-room suite in the working lighthouse and the dramatic lobby fireplace that spans four floors. Each of the 131 rooms is unique but all are simply styled in soft, muted tones with contemporary bathrooms kitted out with Norwegian argan oil skincare brand Sprekenhus. Ground-floor brasserie Apotekergata No 5 focusses on flavours from the Sunnmøre region and spills out onto a renovated barge outside for alfresco dining on the water as sailboats slide past. Arkivet Bar gets its name from a local fish oil business and these days serves old-school classic cocktails with contemporary Nordic twists. Start the day with a curated breakfast buffet of Norwegian cheese, smoked fish, homemade pastries and Jacu coffee roasted in the same town. Pick up fresh sandwiches and cardamom knots from the on-site corner shop, and head out on an adventure into the fjords for kayaking, fishing and sea wildlife safaris. Reward your activities with a reservation at the hotel’s sophisticated bistro Sjøbua round the corner. Try local delicacies such as lobster bisque, grilled Sterling halibut with Norwegian cabbage and Røros sirloin aged at the bottom of the sea for 21 days. On Saturdays there are Norwegian tea dances accompanied by live piano. Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno, Catalonia, Spain Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at masdenbruno.com, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com In the vine-laced hills of Catalonia’s Priorat region, Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno is a bold reimagining of the traditional Spanish manor house. Once a 12th-century estate, this Relais & Châteaux property now houses 24 suites that strike a harmonious balance between monastic calm and contemporary elegance. Think arched stone walls, custom-made furniture, cool marble interiors, local ceramics and an infinity pool in the silhouette of a wine bottle. It’s rural Catalonia recast through a minimalist, high-design lens, with deliberate softness. At Vinum, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant in the main building, chef Josep Queralt elevates local ingredients with quiet precision. The Sent Soví tasting menu is inspired by a medieval recipe book from 1324 and one of the earliest records of Catalan gastronomy. Standout dishes include candied leeks with Bellmunt del Priorat cottage cheese and confit egg yolk, and poultry broth enriched with roasted Reus hazelnuts. Poolside Tarraco is a more relaxed space serving the likes of watermelon and tomato gazpacho, citrus-cured sea bass ceviche and creamy rice layered with ibérico pork loin and Piquillo peppers. At Bruno’s Bar bespoke cocktails and robust Priorat reds are served beside sculptural fireplaces and a terrace that spills into the landscape. Book Bruno’s Suite for its vaulted ceilings, panoramic vineyard views, freestanding bath and olive oil based local amenities. The in-room bar (yes, a full bar, no mini here) is stocked with bold regional wines and snacks sourced from nearby artisans. Breakfast is a lavish yet unfussy affair: cooked-to-order eggs, flaky ensaïmadas, cheeses from Montsant farms and house-made compotes. The cellar-level spa is an atmospheric sanctuary offering grape seed treatments, while cycling enthusiasts can borrow the hotel’s electric bikes, making Priorat’s undulating hills a little more forgiving. Visit nearby Clos Figueras for organic wines and lunch in its garden restaurant, and browse Agrobotiga Falset for local oils and vermouth. Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at masdenbruno.com, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Susafa, Sicily Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk It’s a family affair at Susafa, a sprawling estate that has been owned by members of the Saeli-Rizzuto family for five generations - brothers Manfredi and Tommaso are now at the helm. The fortified, 19th-century farmhouse at its heart sits at the foot the Madonie mountains, near Polizzi Generosa, and is the focal point for overnight guests. Around the farmhouse are 18 simple but chic guest rooms. Between terracotta floors and exposed beams are restful ricotta-coloured walls and the odd pop of olive green or tomato red from a headboard or throw. A restaurant is housed in the old granary and flavours here take their inspiration from the traditional Sicilian table. Vegetables, herbs, fruit and organic olive oil all come straight from the farm and the menu is elegantly rustic (think tomato salads, caponata and creamy risottos). Join a cookery lesson if you can drag yourself away from the pool. Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Lådfabriken b&b, Orust, Sweden Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk An hour north from Gothenburg lies West Sweden’s Bohuslän coast, a series of islands and peninsulas home to fishing villages strung between rugged rocks. On the very western peninsula of Orust island sunshine bounces around quirky, colourful fish crate factory turned b&b, Lådfabriken. New for summer 2024 is the EKO Tiny House nestled in the cherry, almond and walnut trees of the waterside garden. Split over two levels, it’s a serene, secluded spot to gaze across the Skagerrak Sea at sunset. Owners Johan and Marcel serve family-style dinners such as cod fillets in buttery leek sauce and ‘East meets West’ coconut and lemongrass fish soup using catch of the day via Larsson’s fish shop in nearby Mollösund. When in season there is lobster soup on the menu and evenings dedicated to oyster shucking. Breakfast is a similarly homely affair, seeing the table laden with priest cheese, Swedish emmental, Leksands crackers and an array of homemade preserves – rosehip marmalade, cowberry, lingonberry and more. During the day, take a kayak out on the crystal-clear water, go wild swimming in the archipelago, kick back with a book on a deck chair in the rocky garden, or clamber over rocks following blue dots to the picture postcard Swedish hamlet of Edshultshall. Here, among red and white clapboard houses, families gather around barbecues on little jetties outside their boathouses. Guests all receive a pick-up stick on check in and are encouraged to join the owners in their #5minutesbeachcleanup initiative to sustain local ecosystems. Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Les Sources de Caudalie, France Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Twenty minutes’ drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the epitome of French country chic. There’s a stone manor house at its heart, a small lake, and a hard-working kitchen garden, plus a hamlet-like extension of suites. Great food and wine are the focus at this gastronomic getaway, but even the finest dining (the hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, holds two Michelin stars) is done without fuss. The newer, cabin-like suites (designed to reflect the oyster fishermen’s huts of Cap Ferret, in the nearby Arcachon Basin), with their whitewashed timber walls, retro-influenced furniture and spa-like bathrooms, are the ones to splash out on; in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by frogs as you return to your room along flower- and water-lined pathways. In the mornings, step onto your private terrace and watch carthorses ploughing the vines just outside. The three restaurants at Les Sources have most tastes covered. Celebrate a special occasion with dinner in La Grand’Vigne and enjoy a meal where even the table salts stick in the memory (one of ours, blended with Bordeaux pimento, was the colour of roast peppers). The cheeseboard comes with fresh cottage cheese, from a local dairy, served with a dot of cherry jam. Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Castilla Termal Brihuega, Spain From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com Surrounded by lavender fields, this little town in the region of La Alcarria is home to a new boutique hotel in a restored cloth factory. Perfect for food lovers seeking to make new discoveries, it showcases regional specialities, while its thermal waters provide an opportunity to fully relax and rejuvenate. Breakfast is a delight: all the Spanish goodies like jamón ibérico, pan con tomate and tortilla, plus local ingredients like manchego, honeycomb and tarta de uvas – a grape sponge cake which teams well with the more contemporary touch in the cold drip coffee offered. At dinner, rustic plates like kid goat and the region’s famous rum baba style cake are served in the large glass-domed restaurant. Nearby food experiences include truffle hunting at family-owned TrufaZero, which supplies many restaurants in the region. Guests can dig for the black gold sniffed out by their dog, Nino. Brihuega’s thermal spa promotes a sense of wellness and relaxation with an outdoor pool, massage jets and a bespoke lavender treatment – a two-hour ritual which includes a lavender scrub, wrap and massage. Exposed brick, wooden beams and floors, a neutral colour palette and dried floral displays add to the calming effect. castillatermal.com From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com Sublime Comporta, Portugal Doubles from £561, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com For a weekend of local wines, fresh seafood and earthy rice dishes head an hour south of Lisbon to the wild sand-fringed coastline, pine forests and stylish beach retreats of Comporta. The area has long been protected by its status as a nature reserve (at its northern end is the Sado estuary, home to bottlenose dolphins, flamingos and storks). The 17-acre estate of Sublime Comporta, its rooms, suites and cabana villas peppered among umbrella pines, cork trees, frangipane flowers and olives, is a blueprint for low-impact hotel design – stylish and subtle rather than dominating the surrounding landscape. Inside all is minimal and white, with the odd pop of polished concrete or warm wood. Though not directly on the beach (the closest is a five-minute drive away), the vibe is that of a grown-up, romantic beach retreat. There’s also a dedicated spa, using organic Amala products for its range of soothing treatments, and a yoga pavilion. Doubles from £561, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Tilia Estate, Slovenia Huts from £184, check availability at booking.com Slovenia is a compact, under-the-radar destination whose diversity of landscapes has stacks to offer visitors who love the outdoor life. Tilia Estate runs a range of cellar tours and tastings of its wonderful wines, some conducted in English – contact them for details. The nearby Theodosius Forest Village – with its seven luxurious wood cabins, some with hot tubs or saunas, set in idyllic woodlands next to its own vineyards – makes a perfect base to explore this beautiful region, where options include hiking, cycling, kayaking, climbing and paragliding. Huts from £184, check availability at booking.com Extend your Slovenia trip with a few days in the capital exploring Ljubljana's best restaurants and in the lush, green Julian Alps. Levendis Estate, Ithaca Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Aussie-Greek couple Marilyn and Spero Raftopulos – plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko – run this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool on Spero’s family homestead. It overlooks a bay in the north of the island and has been going for more than 30 years. Bathrooms come generously stocked with Levendis’ own natural skincare products, while cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner. Plus peach juice, bread, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast. Click here for more places to eat and drink in Ithaca. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Harö Natur, Sweden Check rates and availability at 59north18east.com Take the ferry from Stokcholm to this restaurant and hotel, where your bed for the night is a unique choice between a floating greenhouse, boujie boathouse or glass-fronted treehouse. In the summer months, two Italians take residence on the pizza ovens, or opt for the tasting menu sitting; a succession of contemporary Swedish dishes that might include roe with dill oil and horseradish cream, smoked char with celeriac and cucumber celery jus and woodfire oven lobster with jalapaño cream. Take a dip in the clear waters and warm up in the hot tub and dinky sauna, perched on its own pier, while sunset casts a pink and orange glow over the archipelago. Check rates and availability at 59north18east.com Hotel Les Sources de Cheverny, France Doubles from £266, check availability at booking.com or sources-hotels.com/valdeloire/ A sense of tranquility extends across this estate hidden in the countryside, especially to the unique rooms. Designed as charming standalone cabins (as well as a main country house), they are still luxurious, spacious and rich in thoughtful details. Staying in them feels like a private hideaway, an indulgence that makes the whole experience feel like a genuine escape. The spa deepens this feeling of retreat. Snuggled among the trees, it offers a relaxation pool where the water is warm and still, a hammam that envelopes you in soothing heat, and an outdoor hot tub with views of the surrounding woodland. Sun loungers are scattered around for afternoons in the sun. The food at Le Favori is a masterclass in precision and flavour pairing. Tucked away in the peaceful grounds, the dining experience that perfectly balances refinement with comfort. The setting is idyllic: a light-filled dining room overlooking serene gardens and calm woodland, where every element seems designed to help you unwind. Each dish shows a deep respect for the ingredients of the Loire Valley, elevated through technique. From delicately poached river fish to garden herbs treated like jewels, the menu pairs textures and flavours expertly. The service mirrors the food, it’s polished without ever feeling pretentious. Staff make you feel at ease and well looked after, offering insight without intrusion and creating an atmosphere that is inviting. Les Sources de Cheverny becomes more than a place to stay. It’s a destination worth seeking out and one that you’ll wish to go back to. Doubles from £266, check availability at booking.com or sources-hotels.com/valdeloire/ Andrássy Rezidencia Wine & Spa, Tarcal Doubles from £155, check availability at booking.com In Hungary’s historic Tokaj-Hegyalja wine growing region (tours of local vineyards can be arranged), this five-star hotel and spa (treatments are tailored around vinotherapy) has won a following among modern-day wine buffs looking for less mainstream tastings. While its restaurant offers modern interpretations of Hungarian classics, it’s the accompanying wine pairing choices that most guests are more concerned about – the list runs to 80 different Tokaj wines from 25 different growers. More travel guides 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best Scottish hotels Black Friday hotel deals
This Mediterranean coastal roadtrip is the way to truly unwind
Follow a slow-paced journey along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast and learn how to truly unwind
Dalmatians love a slow pace of life – so much so that other Croatians often mock their southern counterparts. But when your landscape includes the shimmering Adriatic Sea on one side and the Dinaric Alps towering over Venetian-style villages on the other, why would you want to race through it? And that’s without mentioning the irresistible food and wine to be enjoyed. Dalmatians have a word for this laid-back attitude – pomalo, roughly meaning, ‘hey, why the rush, take it easy’. It’s a mindset I readily slip into every time I come here. Less than an hour’s drive from busy Dubrovnik along the meandering coast road leads to the Pelješac peninsula – specifically the village of Mali Ston. Game of Thrones fans will recognise the hulking medieval Walls of Ston that loom over the village, which helped depict the show’s fictional capital city, King’s Landing. But shellfish lovers will look to the bay, with its oyster and mussel beds that bring sweet saltiness to Dalmatian plates. For more than 40 years, the Šare family has been farming European flat oysters for its Bota Šare restaurants in Mali Ston, Dubrovnik, Split and Zagreb. The bay’s salty waters combine with the mineral-rich freshwater from the Neretva river to give these oysters a delicate sweetness that mingles with their natural brininess. Many years after I first tasted these I’m still not sure I’ve had a better oyster. The Šare family also run boat tours to one of the floating shacks where you can see the oysters being harvested before tasting them – it’s as fresh as you can get. They’ll also cook their own just pulled from the water mussels buzara-style in olive oil, garlic and white wine. For a truly VIP experience, contact them directly for a visit to their private islet, Banja, where a rustic restaurant under the pines is the setting for serious feasting on oysters, mussels and pršut (prosciutto), alongside Dalmatian white wine. While white wine might be the usual companion to oysters – and several grape varieties grow here – Pelješac produces some kings of Croatian red wine. From Ston down to the port town of Orebić, vineyards of red plavac mali grapes sprawl along the peninsula and cling perilously to stony slopes, particularly in the south. Fruity, full-bodied and robust, plavac mali is the happy result of the strong Dalmatian sunshine being tempered by those dry Adriatic winds. The southern coastal villages of Dingač and Postup are among the few in Croatia to have their own appellation, and these are among the most prized reds. The village of Potomje is winery central, with more than a half dozen small-scale winemakers. If you have time for only one, Matuško will give you an excellent introduction. Taste its plavac mali, postup and dingač, along with the aromatic white Dalmatian rukatac and – one of my favourites – dry, lightly citrussy pošip, which originated in the neighbouring island of Korčula and is now produced in small quantities in Pelješac. From Pelješac, it’s easy to reach Korčula town via the 20-minute ferry that shuttles from Orebić. As the boat takes me across the narrow channel I feel a familiar anticipation that I get whenever I see Korčula town’s medieval walls curving around its thumb-shaped peninsula. Almost like Dubrovnik in miniature, the old town’s stone houses and cobbled lanes fan out from the centre like a fishbone – best for letting the hot Dalmatian air circulate. Down one of the narrowest of alleyways is Fundamentum, a minuscule, fair-weather restaurant – or, rather, a cluster of wooden tables squeezed wherever they can fit – where homemade pasta dishes include heavenly gnocchi with truffles. You’ll smell the truffles from around the corner. Delightful as Korčula town is, I have another wine route to revisit. It’s been nearly 10 years since I stumbled across the fishing village of Lumbarda, a 10-minute drive south of Korčula town. Here, amid several sandy beaches (a rarity in Croatia), a few family-run wineries produce crisp white grk wine which, after I first tasted it, became my top white. This grape has been around for about 2,300 years and, until very recently, was cultivated only in Lumbarda. Among Lumbarda’s grk-producing wineries, Bire is probably the most popular, so book ahead. For me, though, Zure winery became a favourite after I tasted its grk and pošip. Brothers Ivan and Marko Batistić run it with their father Bartul, and I met up with them at the winery in time to celebrate yet another Decanter Award win. Find yourself in Lumbarda on a summery Friday and you’re in for a treat. Kicking off around the summer solstice in June, Fishermen’s Evenings run every Friday until early September – a lively beachfront festival during which fishermen fry their catches, winemakers sell bottles and craftspeople showcase creations while music fills the air. It’s truly one of the great pleasures of a sultry Dalmatian night. To reach Dalmatia’s largest island Brač from Korčula takes a bit of planning, as you need to ferry-hop from Korčula to Orebić to Trpanj, then Ploče on the mainland. But here you can slow your journey even further with a detour to the Neretva valley – this lushly fertile place where the Neretva spills into the Adriatic is Dalmatia’s orchard, with its fruit trees supplying mandarins (its particular speciality) and other citrus fruits, plus cherries and melons to restaurants, markets and riverside stalls. Another speciality is brudet, a stew made from frogs’ legs and eels, which might not be to everyone’s taste. But what should appeal are the boat trips organised by Hotel Villa Neretva to its second restaurant, Konoba Neretvanska Kuća, which is on the water and reachable only by boat. It might sound touristy but it really is an enjoyable experience being serenaded by folk musicians as you drift along the river to a lunch of one of Croatia’s most mouthwatering dishes. Throughout Croatia, especially in rural areas, you can find lamb, veal, pork or octopus cooked in a cast-iron, bell-shaped pot called a peka, which is then smothered in embers while everything – veg, potatoes, garlic – cooks together slowly for hours. Here by the river I devour the most succulent veal shank I’d had since, well, the last time I had a peka. It’s rare I refuse a peka but you do need to book it at least several hours in advance, if not the day before. Onwards to the ferry port at Makarska to Brač – the v-shaped Zlatni Rat is Croatia’s most photographed beach. Despite its fame it’s certainly worth a visit but best seen in the mellow morning. Pitch up in the neighbouring village of Bol at lunchtime and you might wonder why it’s so relatively relaxed (answer: everyone’s at the beach or on a boat). Come evening the place comes alive, especially during the weekly summertime seafood festival on Wednesdays – a larger affair than Lumbarda’s Friday fish fest. Brač’s heavily indented coastline harbours so many charming villages and ports – Pučišća, Sutivan, Milna – that it’s easy to forget the hinterland of olive groves, vineyards, scrub-covered hills and tiny villages. In the small village of Donji Humac, I enter a carnivore’s paradise, also known as Konoba Kopačina. This cheerful family-run restaurant takes farm-to-fork and nose-to-tail seriously, and local Bra č lamb is the star on the grill and under the peka’s bell. As parts of Croatia become slicker and glossier, count on Konoba Kopačina to remind you of the simpler pleasures of life.
Why I love Valencia, Spain's sunny citrus-filled city
This sunny Spanish city is frequently nominated as the best place in the world to live in for its work/life balance, not to mention its incredible food scene
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of this Spanish city so special from local chef Eduardo Idrobo. From iconic paella to citrus and local signature drinks, there is plenty for foodies to enjoy. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, Istria in Croatia, the Algarve in Portugal or Cork in Ireland. Valencia cuisine: 10 things I love Gamba roja This Mediterranean red prawn is deeply embedded in our cuisine and considered one of the most exceptional seafoods around the world. Its red colour is a result of the depth at which the prawns live in the sea, which contributes to the intensity of flavour and natural sweetness. The texture is very delicate, almost like butter. Rice Rice is the most important ingredient in our culture, we use it as a transmitter of flavours. There are three different varieties. The first is bomba, a short-grain rice cultivated in Albufera Natural Park, which is great at absorbing broth. The second is albufera and the third is senia. These are both considered good but don’t hold up as well when cooked over fire. Bomba allows you to play more with it. Paella valenciana Paella valenciana is our most iconic dish. It traditionally contains chicken, rabbit, garrofón beans (a type of butter bean), artichokes and runner beans, though ingredients vary depending on where you are in the region. You’ll find snails and pork near the mountains, and seafood on the coast. Paella is not just a dish but a ritual that we usually cook on Sunday, similar to a Sunday roast, over a fire pit and enjoy with friends. Fire itself is embedded within the paella tradition – it’s considered an important ingredient that adds smokiness. Las Fallas This is a major festival held annually in March where locals build huge satirical sculptures that are set alight at the end of the celebrations. At the fairs you’ll find people selling a dessert called buñuelos de calabaza, which is fried pumpkin dough sprinkled with sugar, often paired with hot chocolate. Citrus Valencia once was the principal exporter of oranges across Europe due to its warm climate and soil, which is perfect for citrus, particularly sweet oranges. Oranges play a key role in daily life – we tend to start the day with an orange juice paired with pan tomate, and also use them in desserts such as cake or flan. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2026/04/GettyImages-1371962172-f980180.jpg" width="724" height="483" alt="Valencia Mediterranean city with orange trees ornamenting and decorating its streets. Signal city centre in the local language, Valencian." title="Valencia Mediterranean city with orange trees ornamenting and decorating its streets. Signal city centre in the local language, Valencian." /> Agua de Valencia Everyone from Valencia drinks this cocktail made from a base of cava, Cointreau, water and orange juice. We have it as an aperitif and drink it in social settings with friends. It was created to use up the products you had available, resulting in many personal variations. Horchata This is a nutty, soft drink made by soaking dried tiger nuts in water, then blending with water and sugar before pressing out the liquid and serving cold. It’s milky and refreshing, popular with kids, and we usually drink it in the morning paired with sugar-glazed brioche fartons. The importance of lunch Valencians truly respect lunchtime. At around 2pm everyone stops what they’re doing for a one- to two-hour break back at home. The shops are closed, the world stops. This is why most dishes are to share, including paella valenciana, fideuà (a short noodle dish cooked in a paella pan), vegetarian rice with artichoke, garlic and leeks, and coca bread (similar to pinsa and focaccia). Mountain produce Another beautiful part of the Valencian community is that as you move to closer to the mountains there is even more variety of amazing produce. You’ll find snails, rabbits, mushrooms and garrofón beans, which have a very smoky flavour when you cook them over fire. Marcona almonds These almonds are indigenous to Spain and they have been eaten in the Valencia region for centuries. They are usually served as a snack with a beer in bars, as well as being incorporated into savoury and sweet dishes. More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
10 of the best Mediterranean islands for foodies
For an island escape with a focus on food, look no further than these ten Mediterranean hotspots
For an island escape with a focus on food, look no further than these ten Mediterranean hotspots. Spend your days beach hopping, then graze your way around seaside tavernas, beach bars and farm-to-fork fincas to feast on grilled seafood, regional pasta and minerally volcanic wines. Take your pick of islands off Croatia, Greece, Italy, Spain or France for the ultimate summer foodie getaway. For more travel inspiration, check out our guide to the best Greek islands or our favourite Italian hotels to live the dolce vita. For a taste of the Mediterranean closer to home, book a table at one of London's best Mediterranean restaurants. Best Mediterranean islands for foodies Formentera, Spain Loved for its powdery white beaches, crystal-clear waters and largely untouched landscapes, Formentera is the smallest of the Balearic Islands – and arguably the most serene. Long favoured by those in search of a slower pace of life, the island draws travellers from across the world with its laid-back atmosphere and quietly bohemian spirit. Despite its growing reputation, much of the island remains undeveloped and there are strict limits on car use. Instead, visitors are encouraged to explore by bike or on foot, following sandy paths that wind through pine forests, salt flats and coastal dunes. Nature is central to the island’s appeal. Just offshore lies the vast seagrass meadow of Posidonia oceanica, a Unesco World Heritage-listed ecosystem that plays a vital role in keeping the surrounding waters so clear. Perhaps that’s why there’s so much great seafood to be found on the island. Chilled yet chic could be a motto for the whole of Formentera, but it especially applies to its restaurants. Beso Beach is a laidback yet lively restaurant that serves some of the best paella on the island. Juan y Andrea on Platja Illetes has been open since the 70s and is another place for piled-high seafood platters. For a fun sunset dinner, head to Restaurante Dunas de Formentera for croaker ceviche, local squid with garlic and parsley and Iberian pork ravioli. Where to stay: Only accessible by boat, boutique hotel Teranka is right on the beach, flanked by pines. Its 35 rooms, from self-catering suites to doubles with private terraces, are bright spaces accented with local art and furniture. Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Then there’s Dunas de Formentera, an eco-luxury hotel among the dunes of Migjorn beach. Each of its 45 rooms has sea views and direct access to the beach. Check rates and availability at booking.com or hilton.com. Porquerolles, France Just off the Côte d’Azur, Porquerolles is the largest of the Îles d’Hyères – and one of the French Riviera’s prettiest escapes. There’s another good reason to visit: the island has roughly 320 sunny days a year. Largely protected as part of Port-Cros National Park, Porquerolles feels at one with nature: cars are scarce, pine forests line the sandy beaches and vineyards stretch inland. Visitors typically explore by bike, cycling between coves like Plage de Notre‑Dame and Plage d’Argent, before lingering over lunch in one of the harbour villages. If you’re after true French finery, book a table at Michelin-starred L’Olivier, which is open from April to October. For more casual dining, lunchtime-only sister restaurant La Pinède serves French classics on a terrace that overlooks pine forests. There are lots of lovely bistros too. Le Pélagos can be found on a pretty square in Armes, serving plancha-cooked squid with parsley and aioli verde beneath banana trees. Right on the water, L'Escale is another casual restaurant that’s popular for its seafood, tapas and cocktails. There’s one other important spot to know: Coco Frio, the place to head to for a scoop of cooling ice-cream. Where to stay: Le Mas du Langoustier has been a hotspot on this island since 1934. Only open in the summer months, the hotel’s easy to spot thanks to its earthy pink walls and pastel blue shutters. There’s a swimming pool, two tennis courts and access to the Black Beach. The hotel also has its own marine base for watersports. Check rates and availability at langoustier.com. Sifnos, Greece It felt like everyone on Instagram was in Sifnos last summer. And with good reason – it’s probably the most food-focused island in Greece. Part of the Cyclades, Sifnos is low-key yet atmospheric: it’s dotted with whitewashed villages and more than 300 blue-domed churches, and there’s a network of walking paths that link some of its best beaches with these hillside towns (our pick is clifftop Kastro). Locals are proud of the island’s link to celebrated 20th-century chef Nikolaos Tselementes, who was born here. Tavernas still serve his traditional dishes like slow-cooked chickpea stew and mastelo lamb. For modern twists on those dishes, try Cantina and Pelicanos, where chef-owner Giorgos Samoilis celebrates hyper-seasonal, local, produce-led cooking. Cantina works with whatever the sea yields that day, including often-overlooked species like lionfish. Pelicanos is a Cycladic brasserie on the sandy shores of Faros beach. Expect dishes such as the Greek double cheese melt, sandwiched between 48-hour fermented sourdough from nearby Betty’s Bakery or red shrimp oshizushi – sushi rice topped with torched Kilados red shrimp, spices and wild fennel. Where to stay: Nós is a collection of rooms and villas in Sifnos’s rugged hills, next to Faros beach and close to the popular Chrisopigi Monastery. Designed in a chic yet restrained style, each of the spacious interiors open up into secluded courtyards, terraces and balconies. There’s also an open-air gym and spa. Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Spetses, Greece Just two hours from Athens by boat, Spetses is one of the most elegant islands in the Saronic Gulf. Long a favourite weekend escape for Athenians, it’s known for its grand sea captains’ mansions, tree-fringed coves and excellent seafood. Cars are largely prohibited, so visitors explore by bicycle, scooter or horse-drawn carriage. It’s a place to truly relax: days revolve around swimming in clear bays like Zogeria and Agia Paraskevi before heading for a long lunch and ice-cream while wandering along the waterfront. Once on a major spice route, it’s no surprise that food is a focus here. Patralis is one of the slickest spots on Spetses. On the marina, it’s a true waterside restaurant that serves lobster orzo, mussel spaghetti and pasta with tuna. We also rate Liotrivi by the harbour, an atmospheric restaurant in a building that housed an olive press for 200 years (make sure to order its eye-catchingly presented prawn and scallop risotto), and Tarsanas, a taverna right on the water that serves one of the best lobster pastas on the island. Where to stay: In the Old Harbour, the historic Port Authority building has been transformed into the Orloff Resort, which also has an excellent restaurant. Check rates and availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk. We’d also book into polished Poseidonion Grand Hotel, a Belle Epoque mansion that’s been hosting guests amid white-washed walls and sea views for over 100 years. Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Menorca, Spain The little sister to chic party island Mallorca, Menorca has plenty going for it – not least an impressive art scene. Back in 2021, modern art gallery Hauser + Wirth opened up in a former Navy HQ on Illa del Rei, a beautiful island off Mahón harbour. Today, it’s one of the biggest draws to Menorca – and its outdoor restaurant Cantina is one of the prettiest places for lunch. You might have tried Menorcan cooking at Soho’s Mountain, chef-owner Tomos Parry’s love letter to the island’s food. One of his hero dishes is kaldereta, a lobster stew that’s cooked and typically served in a clay pot. On Menorca itself, the best places to try it include Smoix, part of the lovely Hotel Rural Sant Ignasi, and Binifadet in Es Castell. For something completely different, book into Godai for a Japanese-Menorcan experience. Another of our favourites is Nonna Bazaar, a true farm-to-table restaurant in Ciutadella that has a sister site, Nonna Beach, on Son Saura. Menorca is also famous for its wines. Torralbenc is a beautifully restored collection of traditional whitewashed farm buildings that became the island’s first boutique hotel. With just 27 rooms, the property offers a peaceful, design-led escape, alongside some of the best food on the island courtesy of Michelin-starred chef Gorka Txapartegi. The estate is also home to a burgeoning vineyard and winery. After more than a decade of cultivation, Torralbenc produced its first vintage in 2016, and guests can now enjoy a portfolio of nine estate wines. Where to stay: As well as Torralbenc, we love Menorca Experimental. Part of the same group as the Henrietta in Covent Garden, the Menorca outpost offers the same laidback charm, this time in a 19th-century finca with a sea-view infinity pool. Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Ischia, Italy Part of the region of Campania, Ischia is a short ferry ride away from Naples. Known as the ‘green island’ it’s a place of natural beauty and hot springs. If you like hiking this is the one for you: Mount Epomeo is the island’s highest point and offers incredible views, and there’s another beautiful walk up to Madonna di Zaro, a site of pilgrimage. For something gentler, Sant’Angelo is an utterly charming pedestrian-only village. A former fishing port, its distinctive colourful houses line the seafront and make for postcard-perfect photos. For the best experience of those famous hot springs, head to Le Fumarole beach, which has volcanic steam vents. Elsewhere, Maronti beach is one of the largest stretches of sand on the island. Given its proximity to Naples, Ischia’s food takes on a Neapolitan flair. For an authentic trattoria experience, book into Peppina di Renato – which dates to 1979 – for potato and gorgonzola pizza, panzanella salad and pomodoro piccante rigatoni. And you can’t come here without trying the local dish, a rabbit stew called coniglio all’Ischitana. Some of the best is served at Trattoria Il Focolare. Where to stay: Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa is part of the same group as Il Pellicano in Tuscany and La Posta Vecchia near Rome. As at Il Pellicano, the famed hotel that’s ruled Italian hospitality since the 1970s, you can expect relaxed yet impeccable service, bold design and a gorgeous spa. Corsica, France Corsica is known as the ‘island of beauty’ for its beaches, crystal-clear waters, dramatic mountain scenery and pretty villages. On the Med’s fourth largest island life moves at a slower pace, especially outside of the main holiday months of July and August. There are plenty of hiking, biking and canyoning routes along the island’s famed GR 20 trail – make sure to stop off at Santa Giulia beach, which is lovely and less busy than some of the better-known swimming spots. Porto-Vecchio is loved for its walled citadel, pretty narrow lanes, smart shops and unmissable restaurants. Many of these have made it into the Michelin guide: U Santa Marina overlooks the gulf of Santa Giulia and is a romantic spot that serves barbecued langoustines and local green asparagus; Casadelmar is the place to book for high-end seafood (the chef’s signature dish is confit john dory with olive oil, red lentils, burrata and tomato water emulsion); while La Table de Mina is the place to be on a Tuesday when the team serves a tasting menu of island specials. Elsewhere, Le Tire Bouchon in Calvi is a lovely bistro and wine bar, while I Scalini on the hillside village of Sant’Antonino is just the place for a sunset drink and relaxed bowl of traditional veal stew. Where to stay: A Mandria di Murtoli offers a selection of villas in converted stables that now make the most of Corsican design, each with private gardens, pools and panoramic views of the Ortolo Valley. Crete, Greece Crete is the largest island in Greece. You can explore the best beaches and tavernas around the island or commit to pure relaxation in one destination. Whichever you choose most flights land in Heraklion and it’s worth spending a handful of days here to see archaeological sites such as the Palace of Knossos and the ancient Phaistos. You won’t find any Michelin-starred restaurants on Crete but the island is famous for its traditional tavernas that celebrate local produce – many will shout about their organic gardens and family recipes. Chania has a buzzing food scene: just a short walk from the city centre, Periplous is a lovely seafood restaurant on the Halepa waterfront – try to get a table outside to enjoy a sunset dinner. Maiami, just a short walk away, is a top choice for brunch and Mediterranean staples throughout the day. The owner is a ceramicist who sells her pieces in the shop next door. Also in Chiana is Ginger, one of the most modern places to eat on the island. Formerly a traditional spot, last summer the team upped sticks to an industrial building three minutes down the road where it’s embraced late-night dining and cocktails. Finally, make the most of Crete’s legendary ingredients by booking a wine and olive oil tour at one of the many vineyards to the north-west of the island. Fabulous Crete offers a day tour at an olive oil factory and two family-run wineries. Where to stay: Luxury hotel Acro Suites is carved into the rocky cliffside of Mononaftis Bay to the north of the island. Couples can stay in villas with private infinity pools or two-storey suites with beautiful sea views. Elsewhere, Domes of Elounda to the east of the island has its own private beach and overlooks the beautiful Mirabello Bay. Malta The Maltese capital of Valletta is steeped in history – its famed cathedral is home to two Caravaggio paintings. Food is also a large part of its appeal. To get to know the scene speedily, head to Merchant Street Market, an open market will stalls serving traditional Maltese cuisine such as pastizzi, curried pea or cheese filled pastries. For fun first night dinners, Legligin is a cellar bar serving local wine and tapas, or Tal-Kaptan is a nautically decorated spot along Valletta’s wharf that focuses on pizza and pasta. You could also make a beeline for bar-lined Strait Street, where locals spill out onto the streets in the evenings. For fine dining, Michelin-starred Noni serves modern Maltese and Mediterranean dishes alongside an excellent wine list, while Xara Palace’s Michelin-starred De Mondion restaurant is all about elegant French and Maltese food. On its pretty piazza, the hotel’s more casual restaurant, Trattoria AD 1530, serves pizza, mussels and calamari. For the ultimate special occasion spot, Simon Rogan’s Ion Harbour is Malta’s only two Michelin starred restaurant. From the fourth floor of the Iniala Harbour House hotel, guests can take in spectacular views of Valletta’s grand harbour while enjoying an unforgettable dining experience courtesy of the man behind L’Enclume. Malta is made up of three islands (Malta, Gozo and Comino). A day trip via boat to Gozo is a must. Lined with beautiful beaches it’s quieter than the main island and is home to the two temples of Ġgantija, which feature huge bronze age structures. Our favourite restaurant here? Scottadito, an osteria that makes exemplary rabbit ragu, a Maltese speciality. Where to stay: In atmospheric Mdina, the Relais & Châteaux Xara Palace is one of the most historic hotels in Malta. The 17th-century palazzo forms part of the bastion walls that surround the city. The hotel makes the most of its history via bedrooms decorated with original paintings and tapestries. Ponza, Italy Ponza is the ultimate Roman getaway. A couple of hours from the capital by train and ferry, it’s the perfect island to tack onto a long weekend in the Eternal City. There are three ways to get around small but mighty Ponza: scooter, e-bike and boat. Water taxis will get you to all the major beaches, but we loved hiring a bike and zipping up and down the hills to get to the best, smaller beaches such as Cala Gaetano and La Caletta. It’s also the ultimate way to work up an appetite – La Marina at Cala Feola beach is one of the best on the island. Book in advance and you might snag one of the tables on the rocks. It’s just the place to enjoy bottarga pasta while the waves lap at the restaurant. In the main town, some of the best dining spots are Restaurant EEA, Oresteria and Lanterna da Silverio. That said, one of our favourite meals was on board a five-hour boat tour, which took us around the island and over to neighbouring Palmarola. There are no hotels here, but O’Francese is the island’s one (cash-only) restaurant, right on the sand. We saved our stomachs for the captain-made tuna and tomato pasta back on the boat, which we ate while bobbing about in the sea. Where to stay: Villa Laetitia is a gorgeous boutique hotel owned by one of the Fendi sisters. Overlooking the main port (every bedroom has a sea view), this is a sumptuous boutique option, complete with tiled floors, striking beds and lovely design details, such as branded crockery and pretty linen curtains. More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
10 of the prettiest Provence villages worth travelling for this summer
Wander cobbled streets, explore local markets and dine on fresh Provençal cuisine in these pretty villages
For more French travel inspiration, check out our guide to the best French food trips and the best hotels in Paris. 10 of the prettiest Provence villages to visit St Paul de Vence Situated 25 minutes by car from Nice, the cobbled medieval streets of Saint-Paul-de-Vence have been attracting legions of artists, writers and gastronomy lovers for centuries. This picture-perfect village is surrounded by 16th century ramparts, with incredible views overlooking the French Riviera from all angles. La Colombe d’Or is its most iconic culinary establishment – a historic hotel filled with paintings by Picasso and Matisse, who’s chic terrace serves up a menu of Provençal classics executed with panache. Think fresh Niçois hors d’oeuvres, perfectly grilled fish with aioli, and local roasted chicken with gratin dauphinois. Le Tilleul is a more relaxed, well-loved bistro just inside the village gates, serving up an all-day menu of artisanal pastas, seasonal salads and a tea-room menu of delicious crepes and patisserie. Finally, Le Fromager de St Paul is a charming, picturesque spot with an aperitif terrace where you can pick up local artisan cheeses, mountain honeys, saucisson and organic wines to take away. Èze The stunning village of Èze (20 minutes along the coast on the train from Nice) is one of the most unique in Provence as it’s split across two levels – with medieval Èze-Village high up in the hills and Èze-sur-Mer situated along the sea. Its steep stone pathways are excellent for walking, with lots of bijou bistros to discover along the way. Its most famous culinary institution is the two-Michelin starred La Chèvre d’Or – established in 1953 and today headed up by Chef Tom Meyer. The tasting menu features high French gastronomy at its most intricately refined, showcasing ingredients like fermented cherries, veal sweetbreads, fresh pike eggs and Andaliman pepper. Deli' – near the Jardin Exotique – is a brilliant spot for a casual lunch, serving up generously filled baguettes and fresh pizza served alongside tastings of local olive oils. Away from the bustle of tourists is La Campagne, which has a welcoming rustic terrace and specialises in Corsican and Mediterranean dishes that are wood-fire grilled and made with fresh seasonal produce. Sainte Agnes The accolade of being the ‘highest coastal village in Europe’ gives Sainte Agnes a unique edge when it comes to culinary offerings – blending rustic mountainous flavours with influences from the Mediterranean. Located 800m high, its labyrinth of stone streets and balcony views across the lime-stone cliffs of the Med are dramatically beautiful to behold. A 20-minute drive up the winding roads from Menton, traditional dishes from the area include rich mountain-game stews made with rabbit or wild boar and herbs, Swiss chard pies, and sweet tarts filled with local blueberries or figs. Le Righi, near the Maginot Fort, has the best panoramic views in the area, with a menu of dishes like roasted suckling pig, pasta with beef stew, baked trout and zingy lemon tarts. Another great option is the family run Le Saint Yves, whose generously plated menu includes local country pates, homemade courgette pies and a lavender scented crème brûlée. Les Baux de Provence Nestled in the heart of the Alpilles, 1 hour from Marseille, the stunning rural village of Les Baux de Provence is rooted to the world of gastronomy. This is primarily thanks to its prestigious AOP protected olive oil which is cold pressed for 24 hours and has an intense, grassy peppery flavour, along with other specialities like artichokes à la barigoule and local honeys. Le Petit Rocher is a relaxed bistro in the old village that’s carved into the rocks, whose kitchen follows the rhythm of the seasons. Their menu includes Charolais beef, lamb from the Alpilles, organic ice creams and local wines from Vallée des Baux. The romantically cosy Une Table Au Soleil serves up a menu of ingredients sourced within 50km of the village – cooked up into dishes like rack of lamb, stuffed squid and fresh apple tart. Or for something more fancy, the bucolic L'Oustau de Baumanière is a three-Michelin star restaurant serving up an avant garde 10 course menu using hyper local ingredients in a historic Provençal farmhouse setting. Lourmarin One of the prettiest of the Luberon region’s villages, Lourmarin is often cited as being one of the most beautiful in France and is famous for its mix of rustic Provençal traditions with sophisticated contemporary flair. Just under 1 hour from Marseille, locals from across the region travel for its renowned Friday morning market in Boulevard du Rayol and Place Henri Barthélemy, which has seasonal produce in abundance. Browse sun-ripened melons, Cavaillon strawberries, goat cheeses and salty tapenades. Le Champ des Lunes is Lourmarin's must-visit restaurant known for its creative cuisine that uses produce from their restaurant garden. Think pigeon with rosemary, coffee-encrusted fish with Jerusalem artichokes, and candied carrot millefeuille’s for dessert. The more relaxed Le Comptoir serves up a daily changing menu that’s based on the freshest produce of the days harvest, including platters of Corsican charcuterie, Provençal classics like duck confit, and salads filled with wild aromatic herbs and cheeses. Don’t miss La Maison du Gibassier bakery, famous for its firm shortbread made with French olive oil. Gordes The hilltop village of Gordes – situated 1hr 20mins from Marseille – is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful villages in the world. With its high altitude and limestone soil, the village is renowned for its winter truffles, Banon goat cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves and local honeys, all proudly for sale at Gordes Tuesday market, set amidst the village’s renaissance castle. For an authentic taste of the region, try La Trinquette which serves up a modern take on traditional dishes – like their crab and red snapper ravioli, tender lamb chops, stuffed aubergines and well-soaked rum baba. Alternatively, the daily fixed menus at the family-run Restaurant L'Outsider includes inventive dishes like smoked salmon and leek "crème brûlée", slow cooked lamb with rosemary and a triple chocolate fondant. Don’t leave without picking up olive breads, speciality cuculine loaves, orange-blossom scented brioche or strawberry tarts from Le Fournil de Mamie Jeanne – the best artisanal bakery in the village. Ramatuelle Just 15 mins from St Tropez, the village of Ramatuelle mixes rustic Provençal tranquillity with full-on sandy coastal luxury. One of the culinary highlights of the village is Chez Camille, famous for its signature wood-fired bouillabaisse cooked to a family recipe that dates back to 1953. Other menu highlights include their lobster linguine, Provençal calamari and pavlova aux fruits rouges. For a more refined taste of the regions terroir, La Voile serves up the option of a ‘Tout Légumes’ tasting menu featuring dishes like beef heart tomatoes with burrata, saltwater cooked beetroot with cherry chutney and even garden inspired desserts that feature celery. For something more relaxed, but equally refined, head to Saveurs Sincères – a family run establishment that offers the choice of either cozy interior rooms or a stone terrace patio. Their rotating chalk board menu includes dishes like traditional pork meatballs with sage, stuffed squid with prawns and mussels and peanut-praline ganache pie. Gassin One of the most noticeable landmarks in the medieval village of Gassin, 10 minutes from St Tropez, is Place deï Barri – a beautiful scenic square filled with shaded restaurant terraces and stone architecture. The popular Le Pescadou has a surf-and-turf menu with dishes like filleted Mediterranean seabass with sauce vierge, and hand cut steak tartar with summer truffles. After taking a stroll around its narrow-cobbled streets, (including L'Androuno, one of the narrowest streets in the world), check out Gassin market which specialises in sun-ripened tomatoes, artisanal jams and house-made anchovy purées. Alternatively, head to the family-run La Verdoyante who’s shaded terrace with panoramic views is one of the loveliest spots in the village. They serve of a menu of southern gastronomy, with dishes like lamb quasi with herb panisse, vol au vents with mushroom and asparagus, and a molten moelleux au chocolat served with banana ice-cream. Le Casstellet The fortified medieval village of Le Casstellet – 45 minutes from Marseille – balances pastoral Provençal traditions with ultra-luxurious gastronomy, perched above the Bandol AOC vineyards that surround it with timeless views on all sides. Its Saturday morning market is famous for it’s Cadière d'Azur goat cheese and Beausset saffron which come directly from producers, along with anchoïade dips and fougasse breads. The village has many terraced cafés and restaurants which celebrate the finest produce and wines of the region, such as La Farigoule which is known for its wood-fired cooking. The menu includes dishes like rabbit terrines, whole grilled fresh mullet, and a trio of crème brûlée. For something ultra-refined, head to the 3-starred La Table du Castellet headed up by chef Fabien Ferré, where the multi-course tasting menu includes dishes like: squid and marjoram, velvet crab soup, lamb with anchovy, and a cheese-trolley which has an extra-special selection of matured regional cheese from across France. Tourettes sur Loup Also known as ‘The City of Violets’, Tourettes sur Loup – situated 40 minutes from Nice – is an artistic village perched on a rocky spur, filled with quaint vaulted passages, some excellent food and lots of galleries that sell the local speciality violet ice-cream. The refined menu at Le Bistrot Gourmand Clovis offers something a little different – focussing in on one seasonal ingredient, with menu options built around that speciality – be it St Jaque scallops, Bresse poultry or Provençal green asparagus. The charming Le Petit Tourrettan has a ‘home-cooked’ feel and menu of soulful dishes like stuffed petit farcis, octopus with chorizo and classic tarte tatin. And don’t leave without making a visit to Confiserie Florian, where you can sample and buy speciality violet scented chocolates and even violet jams. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2026/04/GettyImages-2177834494-29dfd94.jpg" width="724" height="483" alt="Stone steps leading from a narrow cobblestone alley of picturesque medieval homes in the old town of Tourrettes sur Loup, in the Cote d'Azur region." title="Stone steps leading from a narrow cobblestone alley of picturesque medieval homes in the old town of Tourrettes sur Loup, in the Cote d'Azur region." /> More like this Best European mountain escapes 10 unique walking holidays for food lovers Best health and wellness retreats for foodies 8 US cities to visit that offer spectacular value for money Best European city breaks Best foodie city breaks to visit by train Best English vineyard breaks
32 best Italian hotels for food lovers to visit in 2026
From vineyard estates in Tuscany to converted palazzos in Puglia and boutiques in Milan's foodiest neighbourhood, here's our pick of Italian hotels that offer visitors a slice of la dolce vita
Looking for the best Italian hotel to visit? We've found the best Italian hotels for food lovers in Piedmont, Tuscany, Sicily, Puglia and everywhere in between. Whether you're on a budget or looking for luxury, need a city break or a sea views, check out our round-up of the best Italian hotels for something for everyone. For more hotel inspiration, check out our best European hidden gem hotels, or relax in one of the best hotel baths worth travelling for. Next, learn 10 things we love about Puglian cuisine and Tuscan food, plus discover the 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting for a foodie trip. Best Italian hotels for foodies Vetera Matera, Basilicata From £220 per night, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or veteramatera.com Nestled among Matera’s ancient caves, this boutique retreat from Relais & Châteaux brings quiet five-star luxury to Italy’s oldest city. The 23-room hotel is built into the Sassi di Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, blending the ruggedness of the mountains with plush modern interiors. At Artema Ristorante, expect dishes that pay homage to Basilicata-grown produce, with two tasting menus on offer from chef Eduardo Estatico (à la carte is available for parties with three guests or fewer). Stand-outs include a soufflé made with farm-fresh eggs from the Matera hills, paired with Vesuvian costoluto and yellow cherry tomatoes, and Murgia goat mozzarella, as well as rockfish soup with sweet and sour vegetable terrine, seaweed and Matera sourdough bread. Salads, sandwiches and charcuterie are served in the Lounge Bar for casual lunches and dinners. Rooms on the Noble Floors have a more contemporary feel, with high ceilings, exposed brick and large windows that offer panoramic views of the Sassi. For a more immersive Matera experience, stay in the Hypogeum where the underground suites are carved directly into the ancient rock, emulating the landscape’s unique beauty. Three of the master suites also have private pools. The Elysium Spa (largest of its kind in the Sassi) is home to hydropools, a caldarium, sauna, hammam and cold plunge pool, as well as treatment rooms for massages and facials. Wine tastings can be also booked in the cellar, where an expert sommelier will guide you through labels from around the region and beyond. Breakfast is served in the Artema Ristorante, where a buffet of breads, pastries, cereals, fruit and yogurt, as well as fresh juices and coffee, awaits. Savoury options include bacon, eggs, Med vegetables and Italian cheeses including caciocavallo, fior di latte, stracciatella and ricotta. From £220 per night, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or veteramatera.com Credit: Relais & Chateaux Villa Paola, Tropea Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, check availability at villapaolatropea.it or booking.com Discover rustic luxury at Villa Paola, a pink-hued former 16th-century convent set among the cliffs and hills of Calabria at the southern tip of Italy. From crisp white linen bedding to cool marble bathrooms, a secluded infinity pool and serene courtyards, it is the perfect location for some R&R. Terraces look out to the Costa Degli Dei (coast of the gods) and over the farmland below, where the restaurant grows a lot of its produce. Meander down through the tiered gardens to the hotel’s own hives, and spot Tropea’s famous red onions. Superior rooms overlook the hills of Tropea and Parghelia, just off the main courtyard, with bird song to gently wake you and white wooden shutters to throw open in the morning. Deluxe rooms offer more sweeping panoramas of the towns, the executive room has a private terrace with views straight out to sea, and the Eremita suite has its own Turkish bath as well as a veranda. There’s a bistro-style menu on offer during the day with dishes such as sourdough pizzas, red onion salads and club sandwiches. Enjoy an aperitivo overlooking the sea after spending time on the beach or wandering around Tropea. De’ Minimi restaurant offers more refined tasting menus, meticulously designed with seasonality at the forefront and an emphasis on local produce and zero waste. There are various menus but think charcoal-grilled spaghettone with artichoke, fresh sea trout with beetroot and hay, and, to finish, a dessert of goat’s curd ice cream and local honey. At breakfast, a three-tiered stand of daily-changing treats arrives to the table for enjoying with your morning cappuccino. There’s also a continental buffet of fruit, pastries and cakes, with à la carte options including omelettes and local honey, which is the star of the show here – make sure to load your yogurt with a generous drizzle. Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, check availability at villapaolatropea.it or booking.com Palazzo Ripetta, Rome Doubles from £541, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Step off one of Rome’s oldest streets into the elegant oasis of this 17th-century convent turned five-star hotel, where attentive staff greet you in royal blue tails. Art deco design and an impressive contemporary art collection contrast with original artefacts such as an ancient stone sarcophagus transformed into a fountain in the converted cloisters. Here at chic parasol-shaded Piazzetta Ripetta guests sip Campari sodas and franciacorta in hushed peace away from the city’s busy historic quarter. Kick off dinner at wood-panelled San Baylon restaurant with a carbonara foam from exec chef Christian Spalvieri. Primi include umami-rich tarragon-buttered smoked spaghetti with anchovies and salted lemon zest, and creamy carnaroli risotto laced with 36-month-old parmigiano reggiano, fennel cubes and pine nuts. Finish with the ‘three citrus’ dessert – a ring of bergamot, lime and yuzu cream – the fruits’ juices used to make a delicate water to pour over. Adjoining bar, Baylon, is lined with amari and Italian aperitifs used to make twists on classics such as a smoky americano infused with lapsang tea. There’s a commitment to the finest Italian brands in the 78 sumptuous rooms (including a wellness suite complete with sauna and Turkish bath inside). Murano glass chandeliers cast an elegant glow, Ortigia products await in marble bathrooms, and Alessi kettles and Nespresso machines sit alongside home-baked Italian treats at turndown (along with a pillow menu to choose from). Breakfast is an Italian affair: serrano ham, mozzarella, ricotta towers, fresh fruit, breads and salads. Pair a cappuccino with freshly baked cakes, viennoiserie and classic Roman cream-filled maritozzi. Doubles from £541, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk La Guardia, Tuscany Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Giglio, the second largest island in the Tuscan archipelago, is lush with clifftop vineyards, fig trees and pines. The serene and stylish seaside retreat, La Guardia, is perched atop a granite cave along from the pastel-hued harbour. Brushed concrete and original stone columns are softened with driftwood decorations and wispy wicker lanterns that gently flutter in the Mediterranean breeze. Chic neutral tones continue through to the rooms, all kitted out with luxury Sicilian Ortigia toiletries and many boasting balconies and sea views. Book the junior suite to embrace the elements with a bathroom built into the granite and a beachside terrace for watching the waves lap against the rocks. Mediterranean flavours and island cuisine are served in the on-site restaurant – sip on a Venetian Select spritz at aperitivo hour before a candlelit dinner of Sicilian anchovies, palamita fish with marinated courgettes, and tagliolini with lemon butter and bottarga. The 70-strong wine list showcases rare bottles from Italy’s islands – Giglio, Ischia, Salina and beyond. Breakfast includes the likes of prosciutto, omelettes with Tuscan cheese, homemade fig bread and freshly squeezed juices. There are sunset yoga sessions on the terrace, healing zen shiatsu and Ayurvedic treatments, and e-bikes to explore the island’s rugged trails, cliff-face vineyards and restaurants in medieval castles. Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Forestis, Plose Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Masseria La Carrube, Puglia Doubles from £311, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Reached via a winding road through thousand-year-old olive trees, Masseria Le Carrube sits between the Adriatic and the hills above Ostuni – a low, whitewashed building surrounded by lemon trees, bougainvillea and acres of working land. This is Puglia at its most ingredients-led. The restaurant, set in the masseria's former olive mill, is entirely vegetarian and deeply rooted in the region. Chef Massimo Santoro builds his ever-changing menus around what the estate produces: almonds, figs, wild strawberries, wheat, vegetables, herbs and olives. Carrube (carob) grows in the courtyard and appears as flour in fresh pasta and dusted atop tiramisu. The approach is thoughtful, seasonal and proudly waste-free, with anything not used one day repurposed the next. Dishes are both traditional and surprising. A fennel flan arrives with a sharp cheese sauce, fried vegetables are crisp and balanced, a pasta cooked in red wine and finished with turnip top cream and a taralli crumb feels inventive but grounded. A bowl of breads – cazzatedde, focaccia and taralli – is as generous as the cooking itself. Guests can dive deeper with pasta-making classes led by Massimo, wine tastings with sommelier Mario exploring Puglia’s native grapes, and olive oil tastings at a neighbouring estate. These experiences round out Le Carrube’s philosophy: connection to the land and reverence for tradition. The rooms are simple, with vaulted ceilings and stone floors, a mixture of farmhouse antiques and clean lines. Some have sea views, others open onto lemon-filled courtyards. Two pools overlook the olive groves. In late summer, the estate’s white and black figs ripen, and you can be sure they’ll take centre stage when they do. Meals here feel like an honest celebration of Puglia’s landscape – generous, inventive and unmistakably local. Doubles from £311, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com L’Albereta Relais & Châteaux, Lombardy Superior rooms from £348 per night, check availability at albereta.it or booking.com Nestled among the vineyards of Franciacorta, L’Albereta is a secluded escape near the town of Erbusco. Dating to the late 19th century, the villa was home to Giovanni Cavalleri and his wife Anna, a musician whose passion for the arts is reflected in the sculptures, whimsical art pieces and beautifully manicured grounds. Now owned by Vittorio Moretti, L’Albereta is on the same estate as Bellavista winery, which features on the extensive wine lists of its restaurants. The elegant Leonefelice Vista Lago, with a stunning view of Lake Iseo, serves elevated Italian dishes inspired by the area, such as Franciacorta beef with rocket and baked cherry tomatoes. Seasonal specials include fried duck egg with asparagus and caviar and cacio e pepe with Sicilian red prawns and lime. The desserts are equally elegant, such as kiwi sorbet with green apple, local wine and citrus fruit soup. Stanza 54, a cosy lounge, offers lunches and lighter fare, while La Filiale, the informal pizza restaurant from award-winning pizzaiolo Franco Pepe, serves handmade dough with innovative toppings. Rooms are individually decorated, large and bright, with warm tones, marble bathrooms and delicate furnishings. Expect luxe fabrics like damask and satin, artistic touches and, in some, deep hydro-massage tubs – choose a superior room for a balcony overlooking the gardens. A continental breakfast with local produce and breads is included. To make the most of your stay, book a tour of the on-site winery plus a tasting of its sparkling wines, or enjoy a treatment at the peaceful Chenot Espace wellness spa. Superior rooms from £348 per night, check availability at albereta.it or booking.com Villa La Massa, Tuscany Check availability at villalamassa.com or booking.com Just 15 minutes from Florence's bustling centre, this riverside 16th-century estate welcomes guests with the heady scent of jasmine, lemon trees and roses. Despite its grandeur, Villa La Massa is laid back, calm and homely. The property has 54 unique rooms across six buildings, from the main Villa Nobile mansion to a riverside suite and a beautifully converted farmhouse. For ultimate seclusion, Casa Colonica stands out with authentic Tuscan elements – exposed beams, wooden floors and green marble bathrooms. There are artisan touches throughout, from hand-knotted rugs crafted by an 80-year-old local tapestry master to traditional key charms instead of modern keycards. The hotel’s restaurants celebrate Tuscan heritage and homegrown produce, with the estate's own olive oil accompanying every meal. Il Verrocchio restaurant offers traditional Tuscan dishes with a contemporary twist such as “Florentine” t-bone steak, duck ravioli, and tagliolini with roasted tomatoes, while L’Oliveto Bistrot focuses on more casual dining featuring the likes of fresh salads, carpaccio, and pizzas. Don't miss the rosemary-studded focaccia or the pici pasta, a hand-rolled specialty. Breakfast unfolds as a celebration of regional delicacies such as focaccia, coconut and cinnamon paradise cake, freshly squeezed orange juice and tables positioned to capture the morning sun dancing across the river's surface. Unwind in the spa with sauna, steam room and tailored massage treatments or participate in hands-on pizza-making classes and cocktail workshops. Villa La Massa invites you to fully lean into rural Tuscan life, while boasting easy access to Florence’s Renaissance treasures and thriving hospitality scene. Check availability at villalamassa.com or booking.com Hotel Su Gologone, Sardinia Doubles from £285, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Winding into the Barbagia mountains you'll find the Hotel Su Gologone. Just a two-hour drive from the Costa Smeralda this is more bandit than paparazzi territory – probably one of the reasons Madonna hid out here, although she could have been swayed by the hotel’s gob-smacking beauty, hippy-chic vibe and gourmet credentials. Food is at the heart of Su Gologone, which started life as a restaurant in the 1960s. Today, it might be a chic, art-themed hotel – a pretty huddle of whitewashed buildings laced with vivid purple bougainvillea and bedded into the mountainside – but it’s still famous for its food. Giovanna’s vibrant artworks pepper the bedrooms’ walls while the corridors are hung with traditional embroidered skirts and shawls. Secret alcoves are dotted around the gardens, there’s an open-air cinema and pool, a small spa, rooftop lounging areas for stargazing and a fabulous bar– whitewashed, open-air, scattered with white cushions and teetering above the valley. Sip a frothy bellini here, as the sun sinks, soaking up the Ibiza vibe and jaw-dropping views. Doubles from £285, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Fink, South Tyrol Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Nestled in the arcades of one of Brixen’s oldest monastery townhouses, this boutique hotel has been passed down through four generations. Husband-and-wife owners Petra and Florian Fink have a deep respect for the 1450s building, creating an intentionally minimalist feel to allow original features to shine in the nine suites – thick stone walls left bare, restored ceiling frescoes decorating cosy window seats and the terrazzo flooring flecked with South Tyrolean stone. A compact vaulted spa awaits behind an ancient wooden door, its central stone plunge pool ideal for cooling down after sessions in the sauna, steam room and Roman bath outhouse. Choose to dine in the chic vaulted restaurant or outside beneath the arcade’s graceful curves. Florian curates produce from 50 local farmers – most specialising in a single ingredient – for his fresh, simple, zero-waste monastery kitchen style. The main menu is vegetarian and includes clever alternatives, such as root veg tartare, tagliolini with red cabbage cream and black truffle, and organic grain ravioli filled with chanterelles and mountain cheese. Meat and fish options are succinct and include local game and freshwater fish, from lake trout fillet to venison stew with beetroot dumplings, and veal schnitzel with lingonberry sauce. Sweet plum dumplings come with black beer ice cream, while three South Tyrolean apple varieties are showcased in a tartlet with ricotta and caramel sauce. An elegant breakfast kicks off with a soothing herb broth followed by fresh juices and fruit salads, crudités to dunk into herb ricotta and compotes to spread over warm croissants and breads, plus made-to-order spelt pancakes and crisp buckwheat waffles. fink1896.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Il Borro Estate, Tuscany Doubles from £455, check availability at booking.com Il Borro is a true working 800-hectare estate, where guests visiting in autumn can take part in the wine harvest and feast alongside the workers and owners (the glamorous Ferragamo family). The hotel itself is set in the remains of a medieval village in the centre of the estate in Valdarno valley, a wilder, more rustic corner of Tuscany. The unique terroir of the estate, with its varying rocky, sandy and clay soils, makes perfect growing conditions for Syrah to make Pian di Nova, San Giovese to make Polissena and Merlot to make the Il Borro signature blend. This unique climate and soil isn’t solely reserved for wine - 700 olive trees provide oil, fields of buckwheat are a playground for honeybees, plus more fields of organic tomato vines, courgettes, pumpkins, green beans and melons provide the hotel’s three-floored Osteria and Tuscan bistro (and chef Andrea Campani) with the ultimate kitchen garden. The buffet breakfast is also exceptional – so abundant that sweet and savoury options are housed in separate rooms. Stay in one of the hotel double rooms or, for more of a countryside experience, the hotel has several ‘farmhouses’ available as guest suites – albeit farmhouses that come with infinity pools, vine-covered terraces and dining rooms where you can whip up your own meals. Don't miss out on a few laps in the infinity pool too. Doubles from £455, check availability at booking.com Nordelaia, Piedmont Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Nordelaia is all about equilibrium: between tradition and modernity; simplicity and indulgence; the boundlessness of nature and the cosy, uplifting comfort of home. It lies within a hilly swathe of rural Piedmont – a region which itself represents a kind of geographical middle ground, suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800-year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are at once contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, while freestanding baths in the bedroom areas add a dose of opulence. On the first floor, the four rooms are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes by which Nordelaia, from its woody hillside perch, is engulfed: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn, and pearly whites in the winter. Two outdoor pools – one heated, one not, but both with views for miles – entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its warm stone floors, barrel-vaulted brick ceiling and stone arches, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Beyond the walls, Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here chef Charles Pearce pays stunning homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and to the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. The two coalesce inventively in his take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta that Charles instead pairs with barbecue-kissed prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a lip-smacking tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms, served with a deeply savoury anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Palazzo Margherita, Basilicata Doubles from £856, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The ethos behind Palazzo Margherita is that it should be a home away from home (albeit a pretty palatial one, bearing in mind that this was originally home to a Hollywood film director), with friendly staff and an open attitude to eating: guests can eat anywhere, anytime, choosing a location within the property that suits their particular mood. Enjoy breakfast in the courtyard, coffees by the walled pool, pizza and pasta at communal tables at the eat-in kitchen and drinks in the cocktail bar. Should you venture away from the hotel, the tranquil local beach has a scattering of sunbeds and parasols reserved for Palazzo Margherita guests. Pick one and look out at the Ionian Sea while you feast on a picnic made up by the cooks at the hotel (they normally add in a delicious seafood spaghetti made with the catch of the day from a local fisherman). Doubles from £856, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Susafa, Sicily Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk It’s a family affair at Susafa, a sprawling estate that has been owned by members of the Saeli-Rizzuto family for five generations - brothers Manfredi and Tommaso are now at the helm. The fortified, 19th-century farmhouse at its heart sits at the foot the Madonie mountains, near Polizzi Generosa, and is the focal point for overnight guests. Around the farmhouse are 18 simple but chic guest rooms. Between terracotta floors and exposed beams are restful ricotta-coloured walls and the odd pop of olive green or tomato red from a headboard or throw. A restaurant is housed in the old granary and flavours here take their inspiration from the traditional Sicilian table. Vegetables, herbs, fruit and organic olive oil all come straight from the farm and the menu is elegantly rustic (think tomato salads, caponata and creamy risottos). Join a cookery lesson if you can drag yourself away from the pool. Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Castello di Casole, Tuscany Doubles from £667, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Roughly half way between Florence and Siena, and surrounded by 4,200 acres of quintessential rolling, forested hills and golden fields, Castello di Casole is a magnificent Italian country estate. At its centre is an imposing, ochre-coloured castle flanked by gardens of lavender, gravel-edged lawns, roses and olive trees. Castello di Casole is pitched at travellers in search of an unblemished version of la dolce vita, one with all the luxurious perks you could imagine. It has 41 rooms and suites within the castle and the hamlet that surrounds it, and another 28 villas and farmhouses (rentable by the week) scattered throughout the estate. Décor is tastefully restrained, with sage and burnt umber paintwork, beamed ceilings, antique furniture sourced from local markets, traditional cotto floors and Carrara marble bathrooms. As with any self-respecting Tuscan estate, this one comes with its own vineyard and olive groves but the real showstopper is the hotel’s infinity pool with its mesmerising views over the undulating landscape. As dusk falls, most guests gravitate to the terrace above the pool, aperitivo in hand, to watch the spectacular sight of the sun sinking behind the hills. As well as the Pazzia Restaurant, which serves traditional Italian dishes and homemade gelato as well as Alessandro’s expert pizzas, there is a more formal restaurant, Tosca, overseen by chef Daniele Sera. Despite the stiff linen and impeccable service here, it still feels relaxed. A standout of the four-course tasting menu was the delicate spinach and ricotta gnudi with tomato confit and light-as-air mozzarella foam. There are more gastronomic experiences available too – from truffle hunting and mushroom foraging to pasta making and wine or olive oil tasting. Doubles from £667, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Borgo Egnazia, Puglia Doubles from £469, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Borgo Egnazia, or ‘village Egnazia’, is quite literally that: an Apulian-inspired network of little streets and piazzas that lead to villas, restaurants, swimming pools, spas, gardens and golf courses. It’s a self-contained bubble of luxury, beautifully designed around the colours white and cream, that’s built entirely from tactile tuff stone. Despite its size, the entire complex exudes a zen-like atmosphere that we found very difficult to leave. You can choose from four types of hotel room, five apartments or six villas – all luxurious, and all within easy reach of a swimming pool. Food is a priority, with six restaurants on site that honour Puglian cuisine – timeless, simple, thrifty food. From grilled octopus at the sophisticated Due Camini, where vaulted white ceilings twinkle with illuminated glass bottles, to a relaxed buffet at La Fresca, rustic orecchiette or pizza at Mia Cucina and fresh seafood at beachside restaurant Pescheria da Vito, it’s easy to stay within the Borgo walls all week. Doubles from £469, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Il Borgo del Balsamico, Emilia Romagna Doubles from £148, check availability at booking.com Modena is synonymous with one of Italy’s most celebrated ingredients: intensely flavoured balsamic vinegar made from fermented grape must. The area around the city of Reggio Emilia is a hub for the vinegar’s production, and also happens to be where you will find Il Borgo del Balsamico. At this historic guest house, in Botteghe Albinea, sisters Cristina and Silvia Crotti produce DOP and IGP vinegars. It’s a lovely setting – an 18th century villa and farmhouse surrounded by wisteria-draped gardens, abundant with damask roses and fruit trees. You can visit the tasting rooms as a day tripper but we recommend booking to stay over in one of the property’s three, refined guestrooms (plus one apartment); think parquet floors, Venetian plasterwork and carefully chosen antiques. There’s a small pool in the gardens too. Doubles from £148, check availability at booking.com Locanda al Colle, Tuscany Doubles from £252, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Calling Locanda al Colle a bed and breakfast is a bit of an understatement. This 12-room guesthouse has many of the perks of a five-star hotel with its antiques and art, saltwater pool and immaculate gardens. Adding to the exclusive feel is its tranquil location, on a pine and olive tree-dotted hill outside Camaiore (also easily reached from seaside resorts like Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi and the pretty town of Pietrasanta). The overall vibe is informal but impeccable, and the same could be said of the food, with everything freshly made each day, from the sourdough bread and granola at breakfast to the cakes for afternoon tea. Resident chef Gianluca also conducts cookery lessons in the kitchen and, twice a week (on Wednesdays and Saturdays) hosts sociable dinners serving homemade ravioli and more on the candlelit terrace (on Monday evenings simple suppers of Tuscan soup and bruschetta are also available). Doubles from £252, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Planeta Wine Estate, Sicily Doubles from £225, check availability at booking.com Unsurprisingly it’s all about wine at the Planeta Wine Estate, just outside Menfi in south-western Sicily. As one of Sicily’s most well established and highly regarded wine producers, Planeta has five different territories dotted around the island but Menfi is where it all began, back in the 16th century. At nearby La Forestiera (part of the estate) there are 14 guestrooms set amid regimented vines, plus a restaurant whose menu is informed by its surroundings - the herbs of the countryside and seafood from the nearby coast. Sip a glass of Nero d’Avola on the pool terrace or visit one of Planeta’s wineries for an in-depth tasting. As well as the pool, in the warmer months guests have access to the Lido Fiori on the beach at Porto Palo di Menfi, 10 minutes’ drive away. Planeta also has vast olive groves at Capparriva producing DOP Val di Mazzara oils; guests can sign up for a tasting and learn about harvesting and pressing. Doubles from £225, check availability at booking.com La Locanda Delle Donne Monache, Basilicata Doubles from £98, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Slightly less well-trammelled by British visitors than other corners of the country, Basilicata is sandwiched between Campania (to the north) and Calabria (to the south). Its rumpled Tyrrhenian Sea coastline is short but sweet at just 30km long, with mountains rising abruptly from the sea. Maratea, its principal town, is a charming cluster of buildings dotted with twisting alleyways and over 40 churches. Also in town, La Locanda delle Donne Monache is a former 18th-century convent, now a smart hotel, with a pool and views over the countryside to the sea. The hotel’s Il Sacella restaurant embraces the flavours of the province – chillies and pork are popular regional staples – and the menu features local sausages from Maratea, homemade pasta with mussels, shrimp and cuttlefish and baked sea bream washed down by Basilicata’s signature wine, the red Aglianco del Vulture. Doubles from £98, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Domu Antiga, Sardinia Doubles from £182, check availability at booking.com A 19th-century farmhouse in the rural heartland of Sardinia, Domu Antiga is in the village of Gergei, surrounded by empty plains and olive groves roamed by more sheep than people. The sensitively restored building is now home to four airy guestrooms whose owners are passionate about local traditions. Guests can jump on a cute Piaggio Ape van and tour the Unesco World Heritage-listed archaeological site of Su Nuraxi at Barumini. Alternatively, join chef Maria Grazia’s bread and cheese-making classes or try your hand at making local pasta shapes, like the island’s unique malloreddus gnocchi. Maria also oversees the guesthouse’s lavish breakfasts, and cooks dinner on request (expect grilled vegetables, local ravioli and Sardinian cheeses). There’s also a pizzeria and a winery close by. Doubles from £182, check availability at booking.com San Luis, Avelengo Check rates and availability at sanluis-hotel.com San Luis is where to go to get away from it all, breathe deeply and just immerse yourself in the tranquility, interrupted only by birdsong and cow bells chiming out through the surrounding valleys. Bedrooms are spread across a scattering of chalets and treehouses around a small, glacier mint-clear lake. Many of the rooms have their own hot tubs and saunas and all of them have small kitchens and dining areas. The showstopper is the double-height spa area in the main clubhouse with its blazing fires, black linen loungers to sink into, huge windows gazing out over the treetops and an inside/outside swimming pool – swim out, race down the pontoon and jump into the hot tub (or, in summer, plunge into the chilly waters of the lake). For foodies, the buzzy, ground floor dining room looks out over the lake and purrs with efficiency. The menu comes in two guises; a traditional one, which draws on the region’s Austro/Italian gastro-heritage, and a more modern, Mediterranean-inspired alternative dreamt up by executive chef, Arturo Spicocchi (five courses, but you can pick and choose how much you want to eat and half portions are available). Lunchtime means soup, salad and cheese, and teatime heralds cakes as well as home-made ice cream. Check rates and availability at sanluis-hotel.com Don Totu Dimora Storica, Puglia Doubles from £295, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com A stylish boutique hotel in the heart of rustic Puglia, Don Totu Dimora Storica is an 18th century palazzo boasting some of the most secluded grounds and best value rooms in the region. In the rural town of San Cassiano large wooden doors along an unassuming backstreet open into a mini palazzo, gracefully decorated in muted tones. Squishy armchairs and books and board games are on hand to keep visitors occupied. Or, help yourself to snacks from the kitchen (homemade biscuits, juices, cakes and nuts) and pad out through a higgledy-piggledy courtyard to find stone staircases leading to secluded terraces. Scented white rose petals drift down from a pergola that leads to a pool and gardens, jazz trickles from speakers and tiny lizards dart from one cacti-filled pot to another. The six bedrooms at Don Totu each have an individual feel. The owners make the most of the building’s quirks (vaulted stone ceilings, quiet alcoves, narrow staircases leading to terracotta terraces…) and have gathered a collection of furniture from across the region to add contemporary touches. There’s no restaurant at the hotel but order before 10.30 and you can enjoy lunchtime sandwiches and salads made with the region’s fantastic produce. The hotel’s small team of staff provides complimentary snacks to break up your day, anywhere in the grounds, from afternoon tea to aperitivo. Doubles from £295, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Palazzo Seneca, Norcia Doubles from £217, check availability at booking.com The foodie town of Norcia is set in the densely tree-covered Sibillini Mountains in Umbria. Enter through one of seven gates in the town’s heart-shaped, ancient walls and you soon discover a network of paved streets rich with foodie delights – café and restaurant tables spilling onto pavements and traditional food shops, Norcinerias, packed with prosciutto, cheeses, spelt and truffles. Relais & Chateaux's Palazzo Seneca is an elegantly restored sixteenth-century building hidden in one of Norcia’s narrow streets. Original stone flooring, open fires and squishy chairs await in the reception rooms, while delicate wrought iron frames, twisted wooden columns and wooden bedheads have been crafted so no two of the 24 rooms are the same. Pad down to the hotel's candlelit barrel-vaulted spa in the basement, complete with jacuzzi, sauna and Turkish bath. For breakfast, a serve-yourself spread is laid out on enormous wooden surfaces, with an entire table dedicated to charcuterie and local cheese. The hotel’s Michelin-starred Vespia restaurant is where the modern and innovative approach really comes into play, with little stacks of 24hr-cooked suckling pig and crisp buttery potatoes with splashes of colourful root veg purée, Norcia sausage ravioli and Breton chicken two ways. Doubles from £217, check availability at booking.com Find out more about our trip around Norcia here Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, Lake Como Standing proud on the headland at Lake Como, this grande dame has hosted statesmen and Hollywood celebs for over 150 years. It retains its lustre with chandeliers, marble, gilded columns and stunning frescos across high, vaulted ceilings, all lovingly maintained by generations of the Bucher family who remain in residence. The Suite Arte leans towards a quirkier sensibility with an Andy Warhol print above the bed and a Prada pooch stood sentry by the bathroom. Most rooms, though, speak of old school glamour, extending to linen sheets and plush silk bedspreads. Tall Italianate windows beautifully frame panoramic views over the lake. Direct access to the water sets this hotel apart and the recent addition of the Bacci da Bellagio beach club (complete with imported sand) takes full advantage. It’s an idyllic spot to soak up the sun, just a stone’s throw – yet a world apart – from the hubbub on the cobbled streets of Bellagio. The outdoor pool is flanked by palm trees, leading to lush botanical gardens, and a small indoor pool forms part of a bijou spa. Watch the sun set on the terrace with a smoky, citrussy Serbelloni spritz. For dinner, chef Ettore Bocchia delivers molecular gastronomy at Michelin-starred Mistral using ingredients from around the world, including “ethical” foie gras courtesy of free-range Spanish geese. Nonetheless, it’s simple spaghetti with pomodorino that shines, finished tableside with theatrical flourish. The veal chop is standout at La Goletta (the more informal of two restaurants) and it also serves lake perch with risotto if you hanker for a taste of humbler traditions. Doubles start from €850, breakfast included, check availability at villaserbelloni.com Langhe Country House, Piedmont Doubles from £209 per night, check availability at booking.com An imposing 18th-century farmstead near Alba, in Piedmont, Langhe Country House is surrounded by vineyards and hazelnut orchards, and has been beautifully renovated by owners Alessandro and Nadia (a Slow Food member and trained sommelier). The only meal served here is breakfast but it seriously impresses: hazelnut cakes and tarts, biscuits (baci, brutti ma buoni), croissants, jams, seasonal fruit, cheeses from Alta Langa, sliced hams – all homemade or local. Cooking classes for Piedmontese recipes can be arranged, and guests can help themselves to a glass of wine from the poolside wine fridge before going out for dinner in the local village. Doubles from £209 per night, check availability at booking.com Castello Banfi Il Borgo, Tuscany Doubles from £762, check availability at booking.com Set on Montalcino’s largest wine estate, by a medieval castle, Castello Banfi Il Borgo is a glamorous Italian hotel shaped from a hamlet of former estate workers’ houses. Romantic, traditionally styled suites - with terracotta floors, antique furnishings and linen-canopied beds – and classical Tuscan cooking (courses are also available) make it popular with honeymooners but it’s the estate’s Brunello that draws in visiting gourmands; in the on-site enoteca/ wine bar local sheep’s cheese and prosciutto can be paired to the estate’s wines. Doubles from £762, check availability at booking.com Hotel Schgaguler, Dolomites Doubles from £318, check availability at booking.com Pale wood and light hues dominate at Hotel Schgaguler, a central Castelrotto hotel surrounded by the Italian Dolomiti Superski region and all its endless ski runs. The food here is lighter than the hearty mountain fare of the surrounding mountains, with an Alpine-meets-Med twist. But the approach to ingredients remains as hyper-local as possible, making the most of what’s on the hotel’s doorstep. Eat light-as-a-feather gnocchi sprinkled with Alpine herbs, and drink milk supplied direct from local farms. The wine list is cherry-picked from Tyrolean producers further down the valley near Bolzano, and there’s a selection of grappa from neighbouring distilleries. Doubles from £318, check availability at booking.com The Marriott, Venice Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, marriott.com or expedia.co.uk Venice has long been known for its iconic Italian landmarks and traditionally rich culture. And cooking is an intrinsic part of that culture. At the Marriott, Federico Belluco, one of Italy’s youngest Michelin starred chefs, demonstrates why, making the most of the island’s kitchen garden of herbs, edible flowers and vegetables in dishes such as silky tortellini or comforting seafood stew, all drizzled in Isola delle Rose olive oil, the only olive oil produced within the city's boundaries. The resort's luxurious bedrooms and suites are modern and minimalist. Particularly impressive are the Residenza suites, which come with private pools with views of Venice. Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, marriott.com or expedia.co.uk La Favia, Milan Doubles from €125 including breakfast, check availability at lafavia4rooms.com< The four-bedroom La Favia guesthouse, an urban hideaway tucked inside a refurbished 19th-century building, takes its inspiration from owners Fabio and Marco’s travels: no two rooms are the same. On sunny mornings, start the day with breakfast in the rooftop garden – eggs cooked to order, pastries, cakes, bread, homemade jams, fruit and juice squeezed from oranges grown in the owners’ own citrus grove. Doubles from €125 including breakfast, check availability at lafavia4rooms.com Masseria Montenapoleone, Puglia Doubles from £212, check availability at booking.com In time-honoured Pugliese farming tradition, breakfast is the most important meal of the day and, at Masseria Montenapoleone - a stylish farmhouse hotel - it is served in the atmospheric surroundings of the Old Stables. Freshly picked fruits from the farm, dried fig tarts straight from the oven, citrus carpaccio with cinnamon, local cheese and cured meats are just some of the treats on offer for the first meal of the day. The warm sandstone farmhouse, which dates from the 1600s, has 16 guestrooms and is surrounded by a plane of silvery olive and almond trees. Just outside Fasano, on the Salento coast, it is very much a working farm, dedicated to organic produce. Guests are encouraged to pick their own fruit and vegetables and to go behind the scenes to learn more about Puglian cuisine. Doubles from £212, check availability at booking.com Antica Fattoria La Parrina, Tuscany Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com The Maremma is a corner of Tuscany where you can still find countryside roamed by traditional cowboys called “butteri” and Antica Fattoria La Parrina is the perfect stop for a window into rural life down on the Tuscan farm. As well as making well-regarded wines and grappa, the farm also produces cheese, honey, olive oil, fruit, vegetables, pasta, flour and meat – there’s an on-site shop that would put many a farmer’s market to shame. Overnight guests (it also doubles as an agriturismo) can also enjoy the farm’s bounty on the breakfast table, as well as at lunch and dinner; everything is made onsite. Guests can picnic in the grounds, enjoy wine tastings, join a Tuscan cookery lesson or even go boar hunting on the estate. The property’s 12 bedrooms, housed in the solid farmhouse at the centre of the estate, channel rustic charm rather than country chic and there’s a pool, gardens and the beach resorts of the Tyrrhenian Sea a short drive away. Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com Hotel Emilia, Le Marche Doubles from £67, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk With rolling hills, ancient towns and beaches lapped by the limpid waters of the Adriatic, Le Marche’s under-the-radar charms are many. Hotel Emilia commands a haughty spot on the Cornero Riviera, a slice of dreamy coastline south of Ancona mostly given over to a national park. In addition to its 30 guests rooms, there’s a pool, an artsy vibe, a restaurant focusing on local dishes and fabulous sunsets. While you’re there, take the serpentine road down to Portonovo, however. At night the loungers are tidied away and tables are set up on the beach. Seafood is the order of the day, namely the acclaimed wild mussels found in the bay, some of the sweetest you’ll ever taste and harvested in the traditional way. Served in a number of guises; sautéed with lemon, served with spaghetti or with "paccheri" and fennel as is the case at Da Giachetti (ristorantedagiachetti.it). Il Laghetto (illaghetto.com) and Da Emilia (daemilia) are two more to try. Doubles from £67, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Rome: where an insider eats and drinks in the Italian capital
Feast at the best spots for authentic carbonara, cacio e pepe and more Roman classics
I’m not a Rome local (yet!) but it’s a city I visit at least twice a year. Whenever I interview Italian chefs I’ll always trade recommendations for the Eternal City. From morning coffee spots to late-night drinking dens, the 10 places here are all on my list of favourite tried-and-tested Roman restaurants that I send to anyone who asks. For more local city guides, check out our guide to the best restaurants in Prague or the best restaurants in Athens. Best places to eat and drink in Rome Grab morning coffee at Sant’Eustachio I have the chef Skye McAlpine to thank for suggesting Sant’Eustachio to me five years ago. Just behind the Pantheon it’s been serving countertop espresso since 1938. It can be chaotic in here: you have to queue to pay for your €1.70 espresso, before you politely elbow your way to the counter, hand over your receipt, shoot your coffee and leave. They’ll automatically add sugar unless you ask otherwise. However you take yours, pair it with a pistachio or white chocolate cannoli. caffesanteustachio.com Have a stylish lunch at Salumeria Roscioli Bright, modern deli Roscioli has taken off so much that there’s now an outpost in New York. You shouldn’t let its expansion deter you – it remains an excellent place for a quick, relaxed lunch that spans the whole Italian larder (think Cantabrian anchovies or Pugliese mozzarella). Plates include everything from gnocchi cacio e pepe to raw Sicilian prawns with puntarelle. It’s also a lovely spot to pop in for a glass of wine – its cellar stocks more than 2,800 labels. salumeriaroscioli.com Experience a true trattoria at Da Danilo A tiny trattoria near Termini station, Da Danilo offers a perfect high-low experience: exceptional food in a traditional Roman restaurant, with walls covered in football shirts and signed photos of sports stars. It’s one of my favourite spots for a long lunch over cacio e pepe (here twirled in a whole wheel of parmesan at the tableside) and plates of various slow-cooked meats. I like to end the meal with a glass of passito (sweet wine from the Italian island of Pantelleria), which is served with a side of biscotti for dunking. trattoriadadanilo.com Have a traditional meal at La Matriciana Dal 1870 Opposite the opera house, La Matriciana’s retro lit-up sign draws you in. It’s worth nipping in to book a table in person when you first arrive in Rome, as it’s a little old-school in the best possible way. Inside it’s all terrazzo floors, dark wood tables and silver serving trolleys groaning with ready to slice meats and cheese. Its signature spaghetti amatriciana is piled messily onto branded plates but it’s one of the best in the city – as are the whole fried artichokes and chocolate pears when they’re in season. lamatriciana.it Tick off a memorable carbonara at Da Enzo There are often queues at this simply decorated Trastevere restaurant, especially in the summer, but the team is always happy to bring you a Campari and soda while you wait – and the food at Da Enzo is always worth it. Last time I was there it was a 40C day but we still loved piling into plates of meatballs, carbonara and fried artichokes. Make sure to leave room for the tiramisu, which is premade in branded glasses and proudly displayed inside. You can also buy them to take away if you’re too stuffed. daenzoal29.com Have a fun night out at Da Bucatino This Testaccio restaurant is always packed with locals and it’s a lively place. You can’t come here and not order the signature bucatini amatriciana. Before it arrives at the table one of the waiters will appear to tie a huge branded bib around your neck to protect your clothes. Away from pasta, Da Bucatino does local classics extremely well: I tried Roman-style tripe and baby pork with potatoes as well as the bowl of bucatini. dabucatino.it Try a late dinner at Al Moro Near the Trevi Fountain, Al Moro doesn’t take online bookings so it’s a good place to ask your hotel to book for you – or pop into during the day to check availability. Even if you can’t get a table until after 9pm it’s worth staying up late for as it’s full of atmosphere and the carbonara is one of the most authentic in Rome. It’s tossed at the table and is a perfect yolk colour with fat pieces of guanciale running through it. Service can be a little brisk if you’re not a local but they’ll soon warm up if you order like an Italian (in other words, don’t just share the carbonara and an Aperol spritz). ristorantealmororoma.it An all-Italian experience at Sora Margherita One of the original Carbone’s first head waiters, Ricky, suggested this one – and it didn’t disappoint. It’s the kind of relaxed place where you can sit outside watching the old Jewish quarter come to life, pouring over the Italian-only handwritten menu. The rigatoni alla gricia (guanciale, coarse black pepper, pecorino romano) is rustic in the best way. I also enjoy the baked aubergines followed by a wedge of cherry and ricotta pie, served with a glass of amaro. soramargherita.com Go for date night at Santo Palato If you’re after a dark-lit dinner spot with a new take on the traditional trattoria vibe book a table here (and do it well in advance, it’s not unusual for sittings to sell out months ahead). There’s a reason for Santo Palato’s popularity: it still has classic good looks – tiled floors, vintage posters on the walls, a chalkboard menu – but the dishes coming from Sarah Cicolini’s kitchen are bold. Think a twist on the classic carbonara, giant meatballs and a riff on maritozzo. santopalatoroma.it Order a cocktail at Drink Kong Drink Kong was founded by Patrick Pistolesi, whose excellent NIO letterbox cocktails you might know from home. A futuristic space in Monti, Drink Kong has made it on to the World’s 50 Best Bars list many times thanks to its dedication to invention. Guests can order by mood or spirit: highlights on my most recent visit in December included the Vortex – a mix of rye whiskey, fig and bitter cacao – and the Shōgun, a martini with apricot and black sesame. Nite Kong, a hidden bar within the same building, is smaller, chicer and just as fun. drinkkong.com More must-visits for foodies in Rome Castroni For coffee Stop for coffee at the Castroni emporium on Via Cola di Rienzo. Its house bar is wedged beside shelves of the best Italian specialty produce; find a spot at the bar and sip a cappuccino al vetro (cappuccino served in a glass) surrounded by the smell of just-ground coffee and the buzz of the Prati neighbourhood. castroni.it/en Mercato rionale Niccolini For fresh produce If you’re self-catering, the outdoor market on Via Niccolini (open every day but Sunday in Monteverde Vecchio) is the place to head for the pick of the season’s crops. Seek out buffalo milk ricotta and chargrilled mozzarella at Alimentari Carlo in the middle of the strip, as well as one of Rome's best fish stalls. Via Giovanni Battista Niccolini Ristorante Piperno For cosy, old-school atmosphere Double fried carciofi alla giudia are one of the undisputed pillars of the Roman table. For some of the best, make your way to Ristorante Piperno, tucked down a small street in the city’s Jewish ghetto. It serves meltingly soft artichoke hearts encased by crisp leaves in Rome’s most charming dining room. ristorantepiperno.it The Pasta Factory For pasta lessons As the name suggests, Veronica Paolillo’s unique studio kitchen lies in an old pasta factory. Which is appropriate since her focus in the small group workshops she leads is firmly on pasta. Learn how to make three different types of pasta before enjoying them first-hand at a shared meal with your fellow students. airbnb.co.uk/experiences Supplizio For street food The original Roman street food, supplì is a mozzarella-filled fried rice snack. At Supplizio, in the middle of the meandering streets around Via dei Banchi Vecchi, you can try a perfect rendition of the original tomato supplì, as well as cacio and pepe and carbonara varieties. supplizioroma.it Circus Maximus Farmers Market For porchetta sandwiches The long tradition of bringing herb-stuffed and crackling-coated roast pork from the hinterland towns into the city continues with the selling of porchetta sandwiches. One of the best porchetta paninos is to be found at the Campagna Amica Farmer's Market in Via San Teodoro every Saturday and Sunday. circusmaximumfarmersmarket.wordpress.com Il Goccetto For wine Enoteca are the best kind of wine shops: those you can have a drink in. Even better if they serve small plates of appetisers alongside the wine, as Il Goccetto does. If you’re visiting in the summer ask for a glass of chilled Grechetto from northern Lazio. @ilgoccetto Panificio Bonci For pizza It’s hard to walk past this spot, on Via Trionfale, without stopping for a slice of pizza al taglio, maybe potato and mozzarella or a classic pizza rossa. If you’re self-catering you’ll also want to pick up a loaf made using the best organic stoneground flours, or a bag of artisan pastries. bonci.it Piatto Romano – for comfort food Aged sheep's milk pecorino cheese is a cornerstone ingredient in the big four Roman pastas: cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana and la gricia. Pull up a chair at Testaccio trattoria Piatto Romano and dive into a bowl of pasta cooked the way it should be – simple, unsophisticated and blanketed with pecorino. piattoromano.com Words by Alice Adams Carosi, June 2019 Trust olive: Alice Adams Carosi is a cook, food stylist and the creator of Latteria studio in Rome (latteriastudio.com). Spending time at the city’s markets is happily part of her job description. Follow her on Instagram @aliceadamscarosi Rachel Roddy's best places to eat and drink in Rome Armando For traditional Roman food Metres away from the Pantheon, Armando is a quietly elegant, but not at all precious, trattoria serving excellent, traditional Roman food. Try the fettuccine con le rigaglie (fresh egg pasta with chicken livers) and the torta antica. armandoalpantheon.it Mordi & Vai For sandwiches At Mordi & Vai ex-butcher Sergio Esposito’s sandwiches are some of Rome’s greatest (and best value). The classic, panino con l’ allesso, is a soft roll dipped in rich meat broth, filled with meltingly tender boiled beef. mordievai.it Forno Campo de' Fiori For pizza Get to Forno Campo de’ Fiori by 11 to grab a late-morning snack. Order a slice of both pizza bianca (olive oil and salt) and pizza rossa (with tomato). Don’t stand by the door or the bins – take your hot pizza into the relative calm of Piazza Farnese and eat it beside one of the fountains. fornocampodefiori.com Testaccio market For market shopping Modern and bright Testaccio market is as tremendous and genuine as its grubbier previous incarnation. Wander between stalls selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and cheese, then buy mozzarella from Lina (box 89), bread and pizza from Artenio (box 90), and tomatoes and strawberries from Gianluca (box 32). Between Via Aldo Manuzio and Via Beniamino Franklin Flavio al Velavevodetto For pasta At trattoria Flavio al Velavevodetto, partly burrowed into Monte Testaccio, the quartet of classic roman pastas – carbonara, gricia, amatriciana and cacio e pepe – are all superb. In season, order artichokes either Roman-style (braised whole with mint and garlic) or Jewish-style (deep-fried until they look like an exquisite bronze flower). ristorantevelavevodetto.it More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best restaurants in the Black Forest Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Porto, Portugal: where locals eat and drink
Discover our pick of where to eat and drink in Portugal's elegant second city, including local hotspots, chef favourites and new openings, plus a spotlight on a foodie neighbourhood
Looking for restaurants in Porto? Want to know where to eat in Portugal's northern city? Our local and in house experts share their insider tips for the best restaurants in Porto, along with where to find the best pastéis de nata (custard tarts), sandes de pernil (pork sarnies) and port houses. For more Portuguese travel inspiration, discover 10 things we love about the food from the Algarve and more of the best Portugal food trips. Next, check out our city guides to Málaga, Prague and Ljubljana. Our pick of Porto's best restaurants, cafés and bars Manteigaria – for custard tarts Fans of Lisbon’s cult custard tart shop, Manteigaria, will be pleased to know that Porto has its own branch now. Watch chefs work with spirals of butter and pastry (the kitchen walls are made entirely from glass), transforming them into crisp wheels that are then filled with cinnamon-spiked custard. Stand at the counter and down an espresso, or head to the adjoining minimalistic canteen to savour your tart with a glass of port. Pedro dos Frangos – for piri-piri chicken This long-running Porto favourite has been specialising in charcoal-roasted chicken since the 1960s. Whole birds are slowly spit-roasted over glowing coals until the skin turns burnished and crisp, then chopped into juicy portions and brushed with a punchy piri-piri sauce that delivers a gentle chilli kick. Order a whole chicken to share and it arrives piled onto a large platter with a generous heap of skinny fries and a simple lettuce and tomato salad to balance the richness. The dining room feels pleasingly old-school – wood panelling, tiled floors and tables packed with locals and families. Best of all, the value is exceptional: when we went, a whole chicken with fries and salad plus a bottle of vinho verde came in at around €27. pedrodosfrangos.pt A Casa Guedes – for sandes de pernil (Portuguese pork sandwiches) Queue alongside locals for this traditional tavern, if only for the crunchy bread rolls stuffed with juicy roast pork leg and a one euro glass of Portuguese wine (try the ever-so-slightly-sparkling vinho verde). Perch on one of four stools at the tiled counter and watch your roll come to life: the bread is cut and filled with a thick slice of cheese, then passed down to the tavern owner, who carves the pork and heaps slices of the stuff directly into your sandwich, with plenty of roasting juices. There’s a patio around the side for sun worshippers. facebook.com/a-casa-guedes O Forno do Leitão do Zé – for suckling pig If you want to try Portugal’s famous leitão (suckling pig), this understated spot across the street from the famous Mercado do Bolhão delivers it in gloriously crisp fashion. The pig is slow-roasted until the skin turns glassy and crackling, then chopped into generous chunks of tender meat and served simply with a pile of crunchy crisps. It’s rich, salty and incredibly moreish. Enjoy it with an ice-cold beer. The restaurant itself has a casual, bustling feel, with bright tiles and simple tables. The vibe is more fast food joint than restaurant, with a steady hum of locals dropping in for a plate and a drink. Portions are generous and the quality is excellent: when we visited a plate of suckling pig with crisps and two beers came to roughly €37. For a taste of a classic Portuguese speciality without the formality, it’s a great shout. leitaodoze.pt Flor dos Congregados – for traditional tavern vibes At Flor dos Congregados, every dish is cooked with passion. Try the terylene sandwich, a double-layered roast pork and ham affair that takes a full day to cook; or a slice of sericaia cake (a kind of egg pudding) and a glass of chilled port. 11 Travessa dos Congregados, 00 351 222 002 822 O Paparico – for fine dining with locals At O Paparico you have to knock on the door as you would at a friend’s house. Exquisite presentation and sophisticated cooking hint at Michelin aspirations, that locals kept secret as long as they could. Try the octopus ceviche with olive oil, onion and coriander. Taylor’s port house – for port tastings Clamber up the steep, cobble street on the Gaia side of the Douro river (accessed by crossing the Luís I bridge) to reach Taylor’s port house and its peaceful, rose-filled courtyard. Pull up a chair (mind the resident cockerel, who likes to make his voice heard occasionally) and order the Introduction to Taylor’s tasting flight – five ports ranging from simple white to easy-drinking LBV, brown tawny (popular amongst Brits) and a sought-after 20-year old vintage. taylor.pt Sol e Sombra Bifanas – for bifana sandwiches You probably won’t be able to order anything specific at this bar, perched on one of Porto’s many hills, unless you speak fluent Portuguese. But trust in the warm owner. He’ll bring you seriously cheap bifana bread roll sandwiches, filled with pork steak and cooking liquor – which simmers happily in the window, luring customers inside – flavoured with garlic, chilli and secret spices. Bacalhau (croquettes of salted cod) are pre-made and served cold, and even if you ordered a round of vinho verde (like we did), or bottles of Super Bock beer, you’d still have change from a €20 euro note. Look out for the caracóis (aka Portuguese snails), too! facebook.com/Sol-e-Sombra-Bifanas Taberna do Largo – for pre-dinner drinks and snacks At modern drinking hole Taberna do Largo, the menu takes you on a journey through Portugal via some of the country’s best small-scale producers. Local wines, cheeses, meats, olive oils and even teas are covered... order a Porto tonico while you choose. 69 Largo de São Domingos, 00 351 222 082 154 Cafetaria da Bolsa – for a traditional Portuguese meal With an unassuming frontage, other than a blackboard with that day’s specials, this small, family-run restaurant is the perfect spot if you want simply cooked fish and seafood at great prices. The tiny open-plan kitchen occupies one corner of the room, and from it comes giant prawns, still in their amber coats of armour, which arrive fighting for space on giant plates alongside hunks of garlic and bay leaves. Sweet clams, clattering in their pretty ivory shells, come cooked in garlic, chopped herbs and olive oil. Try the sardines, grilled and tender, with new potatoes, grilled peppers and onions, and chips on the side (because if you can’t double carb on holiday, when can you?). And, for something a little more unusual, try the salted codfish mashed with potatoes, boiled egg, black olives and plenty of herbs. Largo São Domingos 23, 4050-253 Porto Rosa et Al Townhouse – for brunch If you’ve already sorted your accommodation, it’s worth soaking up Rosa et Al’s chic and cosy vibe over brunch. 50 jars of tea (some made with herbs from the garden) cover a large serving table; you can choose your own Portuguese tinned cod or sardines; and there’s a dinky walled garden out back where you can sit around tiled tables, eating eggs with spruced-up sides and drinking freshly squeezed orange juice in the sunshine. rosaetal.pt PROVA – for wine There’s more to Portugal’s wines than port. Explore the distinct qualities of each of the country’s wine regions at this cosy bar, kicking off with a glass of dão and a carefully paired selection of cured meats. prova.com.pt Padaria Ribeiro – for traditional bakes Get some energy for sightseeing along Porto’s cobblestone streets with breakfast at Padaria Ribeiro, open since 1878. Order the pirilampos (little worm-shaped crunchy biscuits), or a lanche – a sandwich-like snack filled with ham, sausage and bacon. padariaribeiro.com Mercado do Bolhão – for market shopping The 19th-century Mercado do Bolhão dazzles with fruit and veg, cured hams, regional cheeses and freshly caught fish. Take a break at Bolhão wine house and snack on smoked ham from the butcher across the hall, sardines from the nearby fishing village of Matosinhos, and a glass of Moscatel do Douro. 1 Loja, 00 351 222 009 975 Tavi – for donuts and sunsets The juxtaposition of the Douro river and the Atlantic ocean make for some spectacular sunsets, especially in the Foz district. At the Parque da Cidade, this bakery is famous for its bolas de Berlim (custard-filled donuts) and ocean-view terrace. confeitariatavi.com Tascö – for pestiscos (tapas) With its stylish décor, great music, top-notch staff and traditional Portuguese food, this bar is wildly popular. Petiscos – tapas-like portions of larger dishes – are the thing here. Try the pataniscas (similar to a frittata, with cod or octopus), or moelas (stewed gizzards in a spicy tomato sauce). soldoutarena.com Porto neighbourhood spotlight: Bombarda art district (NW Cedofeita) Base yourself in Porto's arty network of cobbled streets brimming with independent shops, tavernas and bars. Book a room at boutique hotel, Rosa et Al, away from the tourist crowds but still within walking distance of the must-visit sites. Relax over breakfast in the hotel's walled garden, pop next door for coffee at Senzu Coffee Roasters or mooch up the road to popular brunch spot, Hakko. Browse the neighbourhood's galleries before seeking out sunny terraces to soak up the lively atmosphere – an olive tree provides shade for locals catching up over a glass of wine at Aduela, while Restaurante a Taska serves a great-value set lunch of hearty Portuguese traditional dishes under the jacaranda trees, which bloom bright purple during the spring months. No-frills bistros in the quieter residential streets include Adega Do Carregal and Lareira – Baixa, or chef Pedro Braga's Mito has a fancier feel for contemporary sharing dishes. Hole-in-the-wall Generosa Pão e Pizza churns out hunky cinnamon rolls and pizza slices all day, to provide sustenance before an evening of wines by the glass at local hub Genuíno wine bar. Stay in the neighbourhood: For a self-catering option, we're fans of this light, bright studio apartment, ideal for a couple. The highlight is the suntrap balcony with pretty views overlooking the Praça Carlo Alberto – perfect for people watching over a coffee during the day and watching the stars with a glass of wine at night. There is a compact kitchen with an induction cooktop for when you want to cook for yourself. From £89 per night, check availability at airbnb.com Where to stay in Porto Palacete Severo In the heart of Porto’s creative neighbourhood, Cedofeita, this 20-room boutique hotel doubles as an elegant sanctuary and art exhibition. Eleven rooms are in the original 20th-century building, with majestic oak floors, thick wicker bedheads and high-ceiling stuccoed ceilings. A revolving programme of Portuguese and international art, from paintings to ceramics, adorns the walls. Bistro Severo is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner in a light-drenched courtyard with a panoramic glass roof, decorated in emerald Portuguese tiles. For an extra-special meal, Michelin-starred Éon from renowned Portuguese chef Tiago Bonito offers a masterful 14-course tasting menu of seasonal local ingredients. The yellow-fronted hotel is also home to a sleek bar, wood-panelled library, spa and an outdoor heated swimming pool. Doubles from £284, check availability at booking.com Rosa et Al Townhouse This six-room hotel is a lesson in boutique design. Rooms blessed with original wooden floorboards, cornicing and sash windows that lead to balconies are made even more beautiful with claw-footed baths, contemporary furniture and local art. There's a trendy food shop that doubles with a reception desk. For breakfast and brunch, 50 jars of tea (some made with herbs from the garden) cover a large serving table; you can choose your own Portuguese tinned cod or sardines; and there’s a dinky walled garden out back where you can sit around tiled tables, eating eggs with spruced-up sides and drinking freshly squeezed orange juice in the sunshine. Doubles from £111, check availability at booking.com. Photographs by Getty, Alex Crossley and Laura Rowe Words by Alex Crossley, Keith Kendrick, Helen Salter and Laura Rowe
My unexpected journey through Norway's fjords – saunas, seafood and striking views
Immerse yourself in nature and dive into the pristine, rugged beauty of Norway's western fjords
For more inspiring travel stories, check out a scenic journey through Cape Cod by bike, or the highlands of Peru by luxury sleeper train. Juggling a black coffee in one hand and a cinnamon bun in the other, I look out across the ripples our boat is creating as it moves through the reflective waters of Hjørundfjord, and realise why Norwegians head to the fjords for restoration. The quiet in this particular valley is paired with a soaring, rugged beauty. Around its edges it’s not unusual to see people diving into the water or climbing up its peaks. These wellness rituals – which encompass saunas too, of course – are themselves a wonderful match for a local food philosophy that brings people together over flatbreads, rich stews and bowls of cloudberries and lingonberries foraged on mountain hikes. For a true taste of Norway – and to get up close with the country’s enviable bounty of seafood – the striking western fjords are the place to explore. Whether you’re arriving via Oslo or from the UK (flights are around five hours via Amsterdam), the views heading into the colourful, art nouveau port town of Ålesund will awe you. It’s from the sky that you’ll get the truest sense of the place, gazing down at countless islands and islets in the Norwegian Sea below. It’s the ideal springboard for a five- to seven-day trip, hopping from place to place, immersing yourself in the sublime landscapes and raw beauty of this extraordinary part of the world. For a first meal that sets you up for a fjordic escape, book a table at Sjøbua. Taking over a handful of former fishing warehouses on the edge of the harbour, the restaurant leans into its history, serving some of the finest seafood on the west coast. One of the local catches is clipfish and you’ll find it here in its traditional form: salted and served as a croquette. The kitchen also crisps up its skin as an accompaniment to goat’s cheese and grayling roe. Order the prawns from nearby Midsund too. Naturally sweet and complex thanks to the ice-cold waters they’re caught in, they’re served simply with duxelles and burnt cream. The kitchen’s hero dish of halibut terrine with green peppers, white wine sauce and potato cakes is a polished take on a homely classic. The next morning is an opportunity for your first cinnamon bun fix. The best I tried were at Butikken, an eye-catching, sage-green coffee shop and deli. Part of the lovely harbour side Brosundet hotel, it’s the place to grab a box of buns to go as an afternoon indulgence, as breakfast at the hotel is enormous and varied. Among prettily presented cereals, meat, fish and bread, you’ll find the Norwegian delicacy of brunost, a brown cheese. Made from caramelised whey, brown cheese is more sweet than savoury, with a pleasant malty, fudgy taste that pairs well with waffles and raspberry jam. Another morning regular you’re likely to spy is kaviar, a salty roe paste that comes in a toothpaste-like tube. I squeezed some on half a hard-boiled egg but even the Norwegians around us admitted it’s an acquired taste. From then on I stuck to the waffles. From Ålesund, the closest fjord is Hjørundfjord, an uncrowded yet dramatic valley in the shadow of the towering Sunnmøre Alps. From a boat, the views impress whatever the weather: in winter the mountainsides transform into ski slopes, while spring and summer draw your eyes to the magnificent waterfalls and across to charming yellow and red wooden houses dotted along the water. The walking and biking routes along this valley are also much loved by locals – just remember to pack a bar of Kvikk Lunsj (which translates as ‘quick lunch’) in your coat pocket. Like a KitKat but better, it’s excellent hiking fuel. Spend time with some Norwegians and you’ll quickly see how much food – and the rituals around serving and entertaining – matters. Sometimes this is by necessity: the harsh winters mean there’s a reverence around hot drinks. These rituals are honoured at Union Øye, a wonderfully atmospheric 19th-century hotel at the end of one of Hjørundfjord’s passageways. As well as its gloriously grandiose interiors (think four-poster beds, roll-top baths and constant candlelight), a huge reason to stay here is its wooden sauna which floats on the fjord. Even in summer, diving into the water can be bracing – which makes the hotel’s signature hot chocolates, made with cognac, hand-whipped cream and squares of Freia Melkesjokolade chocolate, a welcome treat any day of the year. Come evening, its Palm Room bar serves a wonderfully sharp and bitter negroni, made using the local aquavit – a twist on tradition that’s well worth staying up late for. Another important stop-off around this part of Norway is Skarbø, a cider and cheese farm run by husband and wife team Kristine and Carlos. As the oldest daughter, Kristine inherited her family’s eighth-generation farm beneath Smørhylla mountain and she’s quietly set about turning its produce into an award-winning brand that’s now served in many of the fjords’ best restaurants and hotels. The farm shop is open year-round but in summer the pair hosts tours, cider tastings and tapas evenings at the farm. These are held in an atmospheric centuries old outbuilding with a grass roof. Before ducking through the door for lunch I spotted an unusual sculpture hanging on the side of the building. It turned out to be a curved rib of pork, air drying and aging ahead of a family celebration in a couple of months’ time. Inside, among antique crockery and farm tools, we ate steaming bowls of Kristine’s homemade cheese and cider soup. It was one of the most comforting things I’ve had in years and I regret not asking her for the recipe. If Sjøbua is the perfect start to a coastal escape, then The Boathouse is a fitting finale. Run by the team behind the fabulously cosy Storfjord hotel, this restaurant occupies a former hanger down by the fjord’s edge (you can work up an appetite by kayaking from the same dock earlier in the day). Open only on Friday evenings, its long-table group dinners are hosted by the hotel’s head chef Florian Harnisch, who cooks everything solo over an open hearth in front of you. And, wow, he can cook. On the night I dined he pulled together caviar and soured cream blinis; cooked oysters in cream and dill oil; langoustines in a deeply rich bisque topped with pickled pine shoots; bright scallops with cucumber and bergamot; and a fillet of reindeer served with jerusalem artichokes. Back up at the hotel’s main restaurant the fish soup and open prawn sandwiches served are just as refined in their simplicity – and its famed Sunday brunch tables are piled high with everything from gravlax to Norwegian-style fish tacos, all made with local catches. Trust me, after a meal here you’ll be grateful for the hotel’s variety of deep sofas and quiet corners. Your foodie adventure doesn’t have to end here. For a final bite you can order a traditional hot dog, complete with crispy onions and mayo, at Ålesund airport – and then buy all the Moomins biscuits, Minde banana chocolates and blocks of brown cheese you can stuff into your hand luggage. If this trip teaches you anything it’s that you should make snacking a sacred ritual back at home. 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Ljubljana's best restaurants: where to eat and drink in Slovenia's capital
Keep things local in the Slovenian capital with wild asparagus polenta fritters, nutty gelato and orange wines
Looking for the best restaurants in Ljubljana? Want to explore the best riverside bars and bistros in the Slovenian capital? Check out our guide below, then add on a few days exploring the mountain region of the Julian Alps. Chocolate box Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture, a river romantically spanned by pretty bridges and pedestrian- and bike-friendly policies make Slovenia’s capital city one of Europe’s most civilised. It’s also one of the continent’s most foodie destinations, with a position between the Alps and the Adriatic that lends the local cuisine both an excellent range of produce and a real variety of culinary influences. Ljubljana's best restaurants, bars and cafés Open Kitchen Market – for a taste of Slovenia Every Friday, from March to October, Ljubljana’s Pogačar Square comes to life as the city’s Open Kitchen Market. There’s a festival atmosphere beneath the shadows of the green-domed Ljubljana Cathedral, and all manner of vendors, from farms to gourmet restaurants, sell dishes and drinks for visitors to graze on. Sample vibrant pumpkin seed oil and Broken Bones gin (distilled with linden flowers and rosehip from Slovenia’s Karst region), or tuck into dishes from the country’s top restaurants – Gostilna Mihovec, Vander and JB Restaurant. Finish your visit like a local by stopping off at Jezeršek’s corner stall for comforting kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancakes), topped with apple, mixed berries or chocolate sauce. odprtakuhna.si Aftr – for relaxed bistro dinners Pops of fun adorn this lively bistro, popular with Ljubljana’s in-the-know crowd. Striking pop art provides a backdrop to high-top tables and a disco ball hangs from the exposed industrial ceiling. A bar stands centre stage, behind which fresh, sparkling Medot Brut 48, dry Klinec Malvazija and complex Movia Veliko Rdeče blend are poured along with seasonal cocktails. The succinct sharing plates menu includes squidgy potato focaccia with whipped shallot butter, spiced pine nut studded lamb tartare wrapped in fragrant shiso leaf bites and Adriatic red snapper with white asparagus beurre blanc, finished with soft serve of the day. aftr.si JAZ – for spotlighting Slovenian produce Highly acclaimed chef Ana Roš is the executive chef at this bistro-style spot overlooking leafy Knafljev passage. Playful creations showcase Slovenia’s rich bounty – Waldorf salad spotlights green apple, folds of pickled celeriac, walnut mousse, kefir milk and lovage oil, while sea bream ceviche is dressed with puffed buckwheat, popping peas and fermented citrus and strawberry water ponzu. jaz.anaros.eu Črno Zrno – for coffee Črno Zrno translates as ‘black bean’ and this hole-in-the-wall spot is a temple to just that. Alexander Niño Ruiz sources coffee beans from his native Colombia, roasts them at renowned Slovenian roaster Stow, then serves the resulting brews in his perfectly formed coffee shop. The space is enveloped in blue and white Valencian tiles – chat with local coffee geeks over a meticulously prepared pour-over inside, or sit in the sun next to painted wooden shutters. Alexander’s niche is cold brew: try it on the rocks in a wine glass, or as an addition to a funky non-alcoholic cocktail made with Ruiz’ grandmother’s elderflower syrup. crnozrno.com Pekarna Osem – for baked goods The minimalist decor at this artisan bakery allows its products to shine. Dedicated young baker Andrej Gerželj is on site every morning, from 5am, preparing dough for crunchy spelt baguettes intertwined with Slovenian Tolminc cheese, and flaky pastry ribbons sprinkled with chocolate beads. The open bakery at the back means you can watch perfectly formed balls of dough being transformed into golden loaves, their comforting aromas filling the space. pekarnaosem.com Suklje – for Slovenian wine With its vaulted ceilings, riverside terrace and 300-strong wine list, Suklje is the place to spend a few hours sipping local wines. There are 200 bottles from Slovenia alone – grapes include fruity sauvignon blanc from the north east, the south west’s rounded and woody rebula epoca, and blue frankish from Suklje’s own vineyard in the south east, bursting with leathery notes and, red currant aromas. To go with it, order a charcuterie board of salty, silky prosciutto and marbled salami from Slovenian Krškopolje pigs, alongside aged kosect cheese and French comté. winebar.suklje.com Gostlinca AS – for elegant seafood lunches An atmospheric brick-lined room and sweeping, walnut tree shaded terrace are both desirable spaces to choose between at one of the oldest restaurants in town. The seafood-forward menu features grilled shrimp, tuna tartare and Adriatic monkfish, alongside pulled veal cheek and sliced roast beef tagliata baked on an open-fire grill. Plus walnut, blueberry or strawberry cake for dessert depending on the season. The extensive wine list is handily categorised by style – rich white, orange, fresh red – then divided into regional varieties including Stajerska, Vipavska Valley and Goriska Brda. gostilnaas.si Vigò – for gelato The queue for this popular gelato spot can stretch all the way to Ljubljana’s famous three bridges. The pull? Indulgent cooling concoctions to rival those of neighbouring Italy. Try the Vigo (fresh mascarpone, chocolate, hazelnuts and Nutella) or lemon tiramisu with mascarpone and chocolate sauce from a tap. The vegan sorbet is some of the best we’ve tried – rich dark chocolate laced with aromatic dried orange pieces. Order a cone to go and mooch through the surrounding streets as you lick it, or bask in the sun out on Vigò’s large terrace. vigo-icecream.com Moji Štruklje – for traditional dumplings Located in the arcade of Plečnik covered market on Ljubljana’s Pogačar Square, this family-run café specialises in štruklje dumplings. Traditional fillings range from tarragon to buckwheat with walnuts and sweet, raisin-flecked cottage cheese. More contemporary combinations include meat-pork crackling, mango-yogurt and pistachio-pumpkin seeds. Pair with a local draft beer (Union or Lasko are popular choices) or a craft pick – Yes Boss!, The 3rd PILL and Black Aurora – and soak up the bustling city vibes. moji-struklji.si Tabar – for Slovenian tapas Tabar, its chairs spilling out beneath sycamore trees, forms part of a buzzy courtyard set back from the city’s river. It specialises in Slovenian small plates – beef tartare with burnt aubergine, octopus with “half way” kimchi (not fermented, but cooked in spices), and warm rabbit terrine with burnt baby leeks surrounded by a moat of buttermilk and horseradish. Inventive vegetarian options include white asparagus with wild garlic, and ground chickpeas topped with bright peas and freshly picked salad leaves from the chef’s garden. The menu must-order is the “olive potatoes” – super-crispy little potatoes with notes of paprika and hidden olives. There’s also an impressive orange wine list to navigate, from mineral malvasia to raisiny jakot. Or go for Gordia’s unfiltered sparkling wine from the coastal town of Kolomban. tabar.si Gostilnica 5-6 kg – for pizza This rustic, brick-walled restaurant takes its name from the weight of a typical Slovenian suckling pig, cooked here in a bread oven. The slow-cooked pork is well worth a visit but so, too, are the pizzas (as they should be this close to the Italian border). The blistered crusts of Neapolitan-style pizzas wrap around bases topped with baked cherry tomatoes, confit garlic and basil. Toppings add extra punch – Pizza 5-6 kg is an indulgent combination of fior di latte, sausage, porchetta made from that slow-cooked suckling pig and roasted red pepper sauce. Or, go coastal and try the seafood pizza, complete with cuttlefish ink, sea bass fillet, royal prawns and capers. facebook.com/gostilnica56kg Stow – for coffee Cut through City Museum of Ljubljana’s striking courtyard and you’ll find this speciality coffee roaster. Light pours in through glass walls onto canary-yellow tables scattered across cobbled floors. Baristas treat the La Morzocco coffee machine with respect, and beans are treated as a seasonal fruit, procured from small-scale growers around the world and roasted on-site. In spring, go for the floral, honeyed notes of African burundi, or enjoy delicate jasmine and bergamot in Panama’s legendary geisha coffee. If the sun is out, sit and sip beneath a shady parasol in the museum courtyard. stow.si Butik LePotica– for traditional bakes This patisserie gets its name from the celebration cake it serves – shaped like a bundt, potica is traditionally eaten at Christmas and during celebrations. Walnut is the classic flavour, an earthy paste spiralled through the dough, while sweet tarragon is popular at Easter. At the small boutique, bakers create individual-sized treats and experiment with flavours such as poppyseed, chocolate, hazelnut and mint. le-potica.si :Projekt – for craft beer Opened in May 2025, this graffiti-clad bottle shop and bar is hidden up a paved pedestrian street in a more local part of town, not far from Dragon Bridge. Step down into the mint green space to peruse the brews on tap, shelves stocked with European craft beer and a fridge dedicated to Slovenian specialties. projekt.beer Ek bistro – for brunch Sit by the city’s Ljubljanica river to enjoy a backdrop of forest-blanketed hills, or settle into an exposed brick nook at this popular brunch spot. The eggs (benedict, scrambled, royale) are what draw the crowds, but larger lunch plates also shine – try plump pink duck on seasonal vegetables and sweet potato mash, or wild asparagus polenta fritters with fresh salad. Homemade ice teas include sparkling elderflower and lemongrass with mint, thyme and lavender. ek-bistro.business.site Pop’s Aperitivo – for buzzy local feels Catering to a lively local crowd, this expansive terrace bar and restaurant plays to Slovenia's neighbouring Italian influence with casual pizza and pasta dishes, cherry negronis and olive oil fat-washed Italicus spritzes. aperitivo.thepopsplace.com Lajbah – for Slovenian craft beer With 16 beers on tap and more than 130 bottles from around the world to choose from, this contemporary pub is a great place to taste some of Slovenia’s best-loved brews. Treat yourself to a beer flight and sample the likes of Pelicon’s Yess Boss! pale ale, Green Gold Brewing’s tropical IPA, and smooth, chocolatey HumanFish Baltic Porter. lajbah.si AS Boutique Hotel – a food-centric place to stay in Ljubljana Nestled into leafy Knafljev passage, this contemporary boutique hotel is built atop family-run dining institution Gostilna AS, right in the centre of the Slovenian capital. Designed to reflect the style of buildings in the Alpine north, the striking steel structure is entwined with plants in keeping with the area’s green status. The artistic focus continues inside, with a chic library and lounge area, walls lined with Slovenian pop art and contemporary light installations. The owner’s art collection adorns the 30 smart rooms, along with walnut wood panelling and bespoke corrugated wardrobes. Almost all have balconies that look onto pretty rooftops, many offering glimpses of the castle perched above. The Castle Exclusive room boasts uninterrupted views of the landmark, not only from the floor-to-ceiling windows but also reflected in the glass encasing an intricate wrought iron bedframe. There are multiple on-site restaurants to choose from: see above for more about Gostilna AS, JAZ and Pop’s Aperitivo. Doubles from £222, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com
Best restaurants in Amsterdam: an insider shares where locals eat and drink
Head to the Dutch capital for Michelin-starred dining, great bakeries, relaxed canalside wine bars and more
Looking for the best restaurants in Amsterdam? Though the Dutch capital hasn’t always had a reputation as a foodie destination, a wave of independent restaurants, cafés and wine bars has begun to change that in recent years – and is putting Amsterdam firmly on the culinary map. Gina Jackson, who visits the city several times a year, gives us the insider rundown on the best places to eat and drink. For more travel inspiration, discover our favourite foodie city breaks by train and the best UK city breaks. Best restaurants in Amsterdam Oficina Located on the western edges of the city, in a part of Amsterdam that most tourists don’t venture out to, Oficina is well worth the pilgrimage. This self-described design studio and canteen pairs a striking, architect-led space – complete with a sculptural staircase and mint green mezzanine – with a breakfast and lunch menu that changes regularly. The cooking leans Scandinavian and northern European in spirit: clean, thoughtful and seasonally informed. Expect beautifully presented plates such as chickpea flatbread with cime di rapa or miso scrambled eggs on toasted brioche. There are always home-baked goods worth saving room for too. oficinaoficina.com Calisto Part of the Binnenvisser restaurant family – a micro-chain of much-loved restaurants and bakeries popular with Amsterdam’s in-crowd – Calisto is its relaxed, Italian-inspired trattoria located in Jordaan. It’s an ideal place to unwind after a day wandering the canals, with the menu offering a short curation of handmade pastas and small plates to pair with wine. It’s also particularly welcoming for solo diners, who can perch at the bar and rub shoulders with the locals. calistoamsterdam.nl Gitane This all-day restaurant owned by ex-Ottolenghi chef Angelo Kremmydas is the kind of place that you can visit for brunch and while away the hours until dinner, when the candelit tables make it perfect for a date night. There’s shakshuka and Greek bagels on offer at brunch, which segue into small plates come evening: whipped tarama and cod’s roe piled onto a tear-apart brioche roll, mackerel crudo in kumquat and chilli oil, and tender duck with caramelised jerusalem artichoke – all paired with an impressive wine list. Walk it all off at nearby Vondelpark afterwards. restaurantgitane.nl/en Advocatuur This sleek cocktail bar is located inside the swanky Rosewood Amsterdam, which sits within the historic former Palace of Justice. Inside, the bar features three distinct rooms, including a live performance room and a distillery room. Take a seat on the velvety furnishings and sip cocktails, paired with Indian-inspired nibbles served straight from the bar’s two tandoor ovens. rosewoodhotels.com/en/amsterdam/dining/advocatuur Salvo Bakehouse There’s no shortage of great bakeries in Amsterdam but Salvo Bakehouse stands out from the crowd thanks to its Italian-inspired pastries. Located on the edge of Jordaan, you’ll find maritozzi, crunchy cannoli, thick Florentine sandwiches and endless other desserts. The baked goods counter changes constantly, ensuring there’s always something new to try: the chunky chocolate cookies and pistachio tiramisu have to be my personal favourites. salvobakehouse.com Café Twee Prinsen Situated at the intersection of some of the city’s prettiest canals, Café Twee Prinsen is another popular Binnenvisser outpost. This relaxed wine bar is perfect for stopping by for snacks and a glass of wine after an afternoon of shopping or sightseeing. There are no reservations – just turn up and hope for a spot, which might just be a stool perched on the edge of the canal in the summer months. Most of the menu is vegetarian, with fresh, flavourful dishes designed for sharing. tweeprinsen.nl Carmen From the outside, Carmen Amsterdam looks like a chic boutique, carefully curating a stylish selection of womenswear and accessories. But don’t miss the café tucked at the back: a light-filled, inviting space that’s perfect for brunch or lunch. Softly scrambled eggs, Nordic-inspired breakfast plates and expertly brewed coffee are all on offer. carmenamsterdam.com/pages/the-kitchen Restaurant Flore This standout restaurant situated inside the glamorous Hotel de L’Europe is one to save for truly special occasions. As the only two-Michelin-starred restaurant in the Dutch capital to also hold a Michelin Green Star, Flore offers a hyper-seasonal menu, with 90% of the ingredients featured on the menu sourced locally from within the Netherlands. The tasting menus showcase inventive, beautifully executed dishes that change with the seasons – and as part of the immersive dining experience you’ll even enjoy your amuse-bouche inside the kitchen, watching the team (led by chef Bas van Kranen) at work as you nibble. restaurantflore.com Esh Pita Bar Tucked away in the Museum Quarter, this relaxed, no-frills Israeli restaurant serves generous portions of stuffed pittas, alongside platters of crispy falafel, creamy hummus and tender chicken shawarma. Dishes are made for sharing, so it’s best to come with a friend or two and dive in together – you’re guaranteed to leave thoroughly stuffed. esh.amsterdam Café-Restaurant Amsterdam It doesn’t get more traditional and Dutch than Café-Restaurant Amsterdam, a true local institution. Situated in an airy, whitewashed building near Westerpark – specifically the engine room of a former water pumping station – this well-known dining spot is where Amsterdammers gather over hearty plates of steak frites, schnitzel and fresh seafood. The perfect place for a relaxed lunch or dinner, it’s a reliable spot to experience the city’s timeless culinary favourites. cradam.nl/en More Amsterdam restaurant recommendations from the olive team Daalder Visit Michelin-starred Daalder for the unique, seasonally changing tasting menu. Chef patron Dennis Huwaë’s salted caramel ice cream sandwich take on the stroopwafel is divine. In summer, tables spill out onto the pavement and the atmosphere is so laid back that you’ll be happy to linger over a number of courses. daalderamsterdam.nl De Kas Amsterdam’s former municipal nursery is now a restaurant aptly named De Kas (‘greenhouse’). With an emphasis on vegetables, fresh produce is grown on site or on a farm in nearby Beemster. Go for lunch to sit outside in the herb garden and feast on baked endive with gremolata, millet, salted lemon and rocket vinaigrette. restaurantdekas.nl Pllek Hop aboard the free ferry to the Noord for lunch at Pllek, a beach bar housed in an old shipping container. Order the steamed mackerel with dill-horseradish crème fraîche and capers on sourdough and enjoy it outside with a local beer and panoramic views of the IJ river. pllek.nl Bistrot des Alpes Locals’ favourite, the cosy Bistrot des Alpes, comes into its own in winter. Diners wait for their table in a former ski-lift gondola but the gimmickry stops there. The owners used to live in the Haut Savoie and produce highly accomplished cooking. Try hearty Alpine favourites like tartiflette and charcuterie platters, or more delicate dishes like pan-fried char with beurre noisette. bistrot-des-alpes.nl Blauw Indonesia was once a Dutch colony so it’s no big surprise that Amsterdam is well known for its Indonesian food. For some of the best – and spiciest – in town head to Blauw, on the city’s southern outskirts. Order the rijsttafel (literally rice table) and experience the full gamut of dishes. There's also a branch in Utrecht, the leafy town half an hour from Amsterdam that has a buzzing food and drink scene thanks to the town's young entrepreneurs. restaurantblauw.nl Hartog's Bakery In winter sugar-scented oliebollen are as ubiquitous in Amsterdam as stamppot. Translated as oil balls, they’re essentially a Dutch take on the beignet, served dusted with icing sugar and sometimes studded with currants (in which case they’re called krentenbollen). You’ll find them served from stalls on almost every corner but, for something different, head to Hartog's Bakery for an unusual wholewheat version. volkorenbrood.nl Best bars in Amsterdam Bar Oldenhof Once a wood-panelled ‘brown café’, Bar Oldenhof is now a tribute to old-school cool. A jazz soundtrack, waistcoated bartenders and a gleaming brass bar top complement its meticulously made cocktails. Try a Flying Dutchman – Rembrandt korenwijn (corn brandy), yellow chartreuse, benedictine and lemon juice. bar-oldenhof.com Café de Dokter Amsterdam has a beer for every season, and in autumn and winter that’s the herfstbok: a strong, dark beer with a hint of caramel. Taste it with a portion of ossenworst (cold-smoked beef sausage) at Café de Dokter, an atmospheric spot packed to the rafters with curios collected over more than two centuries of operation. cafe-de-dokter.nl Wynand Fockink A distillery dating back to 1679, Wynand Fockink is still serving genever (the Dutch precursor to gin) in tulip-shaped glasses to thirsty patrons. Located just off Dam Square, it attracts tourists and locals with liqueurs and an atmospheric setting. wynand-fockink.nl Café Binnenvisser Set up by friends Bob Nagel, Maarten Bloem and Guus Lourijsen, from the outside Café Binnenvisser looks like any buzzy neighbourhood wine bar. But the food far exceeds expectations and small plates change weekly according to what’s available. The celeriac fritters are so delicious you’ll want to order seconds. binnevisser.nl Best cafés in Amsterdam Winkel 43 An Amsterdam institution, Winkel 43 opened in 1983 and has been serving its signature apple pie ever since. Take a seat at one of the cafe's wobbly wooden tables (the cosiest seats are in the window) and order a slice to share between two. Gently spiced, chewy pastry with a crisp, solid crust encases soft apple chunks, while a dollop of feather-light whipped cream finishes it off. If you can't get a table, perch at the bar or eat outside on the terrace. winkel43.nl Bocca This 'showroom' for Holland's top coffee roaster (and previous winner of the best artisan roaster in Europe in the European Coffee Awards) is a slick space where you can learn about the latest blends and coffee equipment. The huge coffee bar separates the room into an area for punters to come and taste coffee, and a swish training area for baristas. So you can enjoy your brew of choice while watching the finest of coffee geekery! bocca.nl/en Toki Meaning ‘time’ in Japanese, Toki is where you’ll find hip Dutch dads drinking matcha tea alongside MacBook-wielding freelancers. The pastries from neighbouring Petit Gateau are a must with your morning coffee (try the croissant doughnut). @toki.times Street food and food markets in Amsterdam Foodhallen The ideal rainy-day destination, De Hallen is a converted tramshed that is now home to a cinema, library, independent shops and, crucially, the renowned Foodhallen. Eat your way around the street-food stalls here – the soft-shell crab and oysters at Le Big Fish, and the rice paper rolls at Viet View are highlights. foodhallen.nl Frites uit Zuyd The celebrated chip is at its finest at Frites uit Zuyd. Plump, crispy fries are served in red-and-white checked paper cones with a choice of homemade sauces, including a punchy piccalilli mayonnaise. Buy a cone to go – or buy by the meter (8 cones’ worth). You can also enjoy them as part of a meal in the brasserie next door. fritesuitzuyd.nl Noordermarkt Make like a local and head to the Saturday morning Noordermarkt in the pretty Jordaan neighbourhood to pick up artisanal produce from farms outside the city. Vendors have been selling produce outside the Noorderkerk since 1623 and the market is famous for its mushrooms, some of which are collected in Dutch forests. Stop at the pancake stall for a gouda and mushroom crêpe. noordermarkt-amsterdam.nl More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
This lush, unspoilt region has plenty to offer foodies beyond its famous cake
Baldwin Ho explains why he keeps trekking back to the Black Forest in Germany every year to dine on the very best that the verdant landscape has to offer.
When you think of the Black Forest, most people think of Black Forest gâteau. And, while this decadent creation is certainly a masterpiece of the region, the extremely fertile terroir has a plethora of gastronomic delights to offer. Immerse yourself in this gourmet region of unspoilt pine forests and scenic hiking routes, and you'll discover countless hidden gems. Here are some the best places to eat and drink in the Black Forest... For more European travel guides, check out our picks of the where to eat in Porto, the best restaurants in Tbilisi, Georgia, the best restaurants in Prague or our favourite European city breaks. Best places to eat and drink in the Black Forest CUBE Restaurant Stuttgart is one of the gateway cities into the Black Forest, and a great starting point. It's one of the greenest cities in Germany, with around 60 per cent dedicated to green space. You'll find some of the most progressive restaurants here, including Cube. The glass architecture ensures the best views of the city, overlooking the Kunstmuseum, and the menu is eclectic, with onsen tamago (low-temperature boiled egg) ramen sitting comfortably beside creamy burrata served with fig and port. It's one of the most cutting-edge restaurants you'll find in the region. cube-restaurant.de Grosser Meyerhof On the other end of the spectrum is Grosser Meyerhof, a must-try when you visit the unofficial capital of the Black Forest, Freiburg. It's one of the oldest taverns in the city, and has a disarming casual vibe with a rustic, wood-heavy interior. This is the kind of eatery where most diners are locals. Dishes are generously portioned and cost around the €10-20, and you can't miss the sizeable pork shoulder with sauerkraut or the comfort food heaven that is the käsespätzle (homemade egg noodles mixed with melted cheese and topped with caramelised onions). grosser-meyerhof.de Dorfstuben For refined country cooking, this restaurant is just the place. Situated inside the ultra-luxury five-star superior Hotel Bareiss, the farmhouse-style rooms ooze quaint charm, with authentic cuckoo clocks and traditional ceramic tile stoves. Personable waitresses even serve you dressed in traditional dirndl attire. It specialises in the regional cuisine that you'd be hard-pressed to find even in other parts of Germany, like the popular Swabian ravioli and apple fritters. You'll also find local fish dishes, as the hotel owns the Buhlbach trout farm nearby. bareiss.com Löwen Buchholz A significant portion of the Black Forest experience revolves around hiking, and you'll find numerous family-run restaurants and hotels in the countryside that serve exceptional dishes – one such spot is Hotel & Gasthaus Löwen Waldkirch-Buchholz, 12km north-east of Freiburg. Surrounded by boutique wineries and Black Forest scenery, this is what makes this region so magical. Local Swabian Hall pork is used for the schnitzel, which has higher marbling and richer flavour. The restaurant also leans heavily into seasonality – in autumn, you'll find plenty of pumpkin in the dishes, from risotto to cream soup. loewen-buchholz.com Restaurant zum Hirschen If you're looking for an authentic, tranquil Black Forest experience, Simonswald is the area to visit, with its lush, natural landscapes. Here, you'll also find Restaurant zum Hirschen, which serves local Swabian maultaschen – sizeable, square-shaped pasta dough pockets filled with a rich mixture of mince, breadcrumbs, spinach, onions and herbs. If you get into a conversation with the staff about Black Forest cake, you'll most likely end up with the iconic dish on your table. They feel that outside of the Black Forest, restaurants might not use kirschwasser (cherry brandy) – and that would be akin to a cardinal sin. To burn off the calories, visit the nearby historic oil mill – it was built in 1712 and fully restored in 2002, and you can purchase the walnut oil to take home. hotel-zum-hirschen.at Markthalle Stuttgart If you don't want to be tied down to the rigidity of a restaurant meal, visit this historic food hall in Stuttgart – an ideal way to explore the diverse culinary scene of the region. Stalls include Wurstliebe by Gustav Breyer, which offers a carefully curated selection of cured meats and high-quality sausages from all over Germany, alongside Swabian burgers (maultaschen in a bun). Here, you'll also find the most popular bakery in the city, Bäcker Baier. Founded in 1835, it's still going strong. markthalle-stuttgart.de Alte Wache Freiburg Another institution is Alte Wache in Freiburg – especially on a warm summer's day. It's a much-loved wine bar in the heart of the old town, directly on the Münsterplatz. It takes pride in being a gateway to Baden wine – you can taste and purchase around 100 bottles, including grauburgunder (pinot gris), spätburgunder (pinot noir) and riesling. The signature drink here is the kalte sofie: similar to a wine slushie, you can choose from a red or white wine option, or a non-alcoholic version. The sweetness is derived only from the addition of grape juice. alte-wache.com 3 foodie experiences in the Black Forest Wine tasting at Moosmann If you prefer wine tasting at an actual winery, consider Weingut Moosmann, located in the centre of Buchholz in the Black Forest. What makes it stand out is that it's very much a family-run affair – you'll be taken on the winery tour by owner Siegfried Moosmann, who will passionately discuss Baden wines for hours on end, even when you suspect he might have more important business to attend to in the winery! It specialises in various pinot varieties, such as spätburgunder, weißburgunder (pinot blanc) and grauburgunder. The dry wines are particularly highly rated, such as the 2019 Alte Reben Spätburgunder. weingut-moosmann.com Tapas hiking tour Culinary hiking tours are all the rage in the Black Forest region, and the Biederbach tapas tour delivers on both a diverse landscape and varied culinary offering. The total experience (and 16km hike) can take up to 8 hours, with three tapas stops along the way. The term "tapas" is used very loosely, as the portions are more akin to a starter, but you're still offered three dishes per stop. You'll pass verdant, sun-drenched meadows as well as towering, evergreen pine forests during your hike. Oberkircher culinary wine hike For another wine-focused experience, there's the Oberkirch wine hike. You'll cover a 7km hiking trail, with multiple stops for food and wine. Oberkirch is one of the most famous wine regions in the Black Forest, so you'll be surrounded by magnificent vineyard landscapes en route. The highlight is ascending to the summit of the Schauenburg Castle ruins for the the most mesmerising views of Oberkirch – it'll make you truly fall in love with the charming Black Forest region. More travel guides Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best restaurants in Valletta Best restaurants in Málaga
Best restaurants in Prague: where a local eats and drinks in the Czech capital
From the best classic Czech breakfast to hidden gems for a drink and refined tasting menus, these are the must-visit restaurants in Prague
Looking for the best places to eat and drink in Prague? Want to discover the city’s neighbourhood food scene beyond the old town? Insider Alexane Said says: “I lived in Prague for eight years and even now I go back every chance I get. Food has always been my way into the city and today, as a food and travel content creator, discovering the best places is my job. From bakeries I still crave to neighbourhood restaurants I return to every trip, playing city guide in Prague is something I’ll never tire of, so I’m thrilled to share my go-to spots here, far from the tourist crowds.” A local's best restaurants in Prague Grab breakfast at Eska Eska is a place I keep coming back to every time I’m in the city. Part bakery, part restaurant, it has two locations, both far from the tourist crowds, but my heart belongs to the Karlín one, set in a seriously cool industrial loft space. I always order the house-baked sourdough or the classic Czech breakfast (with butter, jam, soft-boiled egg, farmer’s cheese, Prague ham, curd cheese and a fermented soft drink) but the semolina porridge, or krupicová kaše (a proper Czech classic), is also a must. eska.ambi.cz Get a local lunch at U Tunelu U Tunelu is a hidden gem in Karlín, a classic Czech pub that feels like stepping into a local’s living room. The food is hearty, comforting and exactly what you want on a grey Prague afternoon. My tip: arrive early to snag a table, order the lunch special of the day, and linger over a draught beer like a true Karlín local. It’s my favourite spot for a relaxed and authentic Prague lunch. utunelu.cz Have the best date night at Alcron Alcron is one of Prague’s most refined dinner destinations, a true city legend since 1932, now reimagined with a modern flair. The tasting menu is full of clever, vegetable-forward dishes that reinvent Central European classics in the most surprising ways. I truly can’t get enough of the bryndza parfait (soft, tangy sheep’s cheese from Slovakia) combined with white chocolate, hazelnuts and apricot purée. Sounds weird, right? But trust me, it’s incredible. Don’t forget to book ahead, it fills up fast. alcronprague.cz/restaurace The most inventive cocktails are at Café Bar Pilotů Tucked away in Vršovice, Café Bar Pilotů serves some of the most inventive cocktails I’ve ever had. And its signature drinks are totally worth the detour. I love grabbing a seat at the bar, chatting with the bartenders and letting them surprise me with something off-menu. It’s the kind of neighbourhood spot you’ll keep coming back to. instagram.com/cafe_bar_pilotu Head to Kolacherie for amazing pastries Kolacherie is my fave spot for a real Czech sweet you actually should try: the koláč. A koláč is a round, yeasted pastry with a soft dough and a sweet filling (traditionally fruit, cheese or poppy seed) that’s been a Czech staple for generations. And, yes, a quick note: trdelník isn’t actually Czech, so skip it here and stick to the real deal. kolacherie.cz Old town’s best-kept secret If you want a true taste of Prague like a local, go to Masna Kozí. This butcher turned canteen serves hearty, ever-changing daily specials and I’m obsessed with the soups, especially the kulajda, a creamy dill and mushroom classic. Grab a beer, find a spot at the counter and let the flavours transport you – it’s rustic, comforting and exactly the kind of gem I love returning to. masnakozi.cz The coolest coffee shop in Prague Cafefin is my happy place for coffee, pastries and people watching. The espresso is spot-on, the brunch menu has fun international touches (Vietnamese-inspired dishes alongside classic pastries) and I cannot resist the ube latte. And, if you’re a true coffee nerd, it has some of the best in Prague. @cafefin.coffee The most unusual fine-dining experience Ready for Prague’s wildest dining experience? Housed in a dramatic stalactite-covered cave beneath Wenceslas Square and full of carved figures and mythic vibes, Triton reinvents Czech classics with a lot of surprising twists. The Czech modern art tasting menu, paired with excellent wines, makes every part of the meal feel like an unforgettable culinary adventure. prague-restaurant.eu A hidden slice of Vietnam in Prague If you think Prague is all svíčková and řízek, Rice Field will make you think again. Tucked away on a quiet Vinohrady street, it serves Vietnamese mâm cơm: family-style spreads of dishes meant for sharing. Vietnamese cuisine has become part of Prague’s foodie scene thanks to the long-established Vietnamese community. I love going with friends to try a bit of everything. ricefieldprague.cz Go for traditional Czech Cuisine at U Šumavy U Šumavy is where I go when I want proper Czech food. The wood-lined, old-school pub feels like stepping back in time and the portions are ridiculously generous. I always go for the plněné bramborové knedlíky uzeným masem (filled potato dumplings with smoked pork and white cabbage) all washed down with, of course, a cold Czech beer. It’s what Prague locals live for. usumavy.cz More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Folegandros: where to eat on this chic Greek island
From coastal tavernas to five-star hotels, these are the Folegandros foodie destinations to know
Near to Milos, the diminutive Greek island of Folegandros is becoming a foodie destination for those in the know. From cocktails at a five-star hotel to regional cuisine you'll only find on the island, these are the must-visit places to eat to add to your list. For more Greek travel inspiration, check out our guides to 5 lesser known destinations to visit in mainland Greece or the best Greek food trips. 5 of the best places to eat in Folegandros Irene’s Folegandros has lots of reasons to visit, including deserted rocky beaches and its own riff on Greek cuisine. One of the dishes you’ll only find on the island is matsata. This thick, homemade pasta is best eaten at Irene’s, a roadside restaurant run by a grandmother and granddaughter. You can’t miss it – there’s only one real road that cuts through this 6-mile by 2-mile island – though it looks unassuming from the outside. You’ll get a warm welcome within, plus heaps of matsata with slow-braised rooster or pork ragu (it’s not a looker, but it is delicious). @irene_restaurant_folegandros Pasithea Another classic local dish is fava, a hummus-like dip made with yellow split peas that makes the perfect accompaniment to hot, fluffy flatbread. The best we’ve tried on the island is served at Pasithea, which overlooks Folegandros’s most popular beach, Agali. It’s just the spot for a languid lunch of fried red mullet and filo feta with honey as you watch swimmers roll out their colourful towels onto the sand below, contemplating your own dip after lunch. @pasithea_folegandros To Goupi In a pretty, tree-covered square in the main town of Chora, To Goupi is as good for people watching as it is for dinner – amble down to it after seeing the sun sink into the sea from beneath the hilltop Panagia church. On its outdoor chalkboard you’re likely to see specials such as meat and cheese balls, grilled octopus and a moussaka-like dish of potato, cheese and aubergine. Gundari The bar is the best thing about rugged-luxury five-star hotel Gundari, which looks down on plunging cliffs on a quieter side of the island. The cocktail menu has been created by acclaimed Athens bar Line (currently number eight on the World’s 50 Best Bars list) and guests can choose between sunset negronis by the pool or soaking up the vinyl being played in its moody Japanese kissa-style drinking den. gundari.com Papalagi A 15-minute stroll along the coast from the sands of Agali, Papalagi is perched on a hill looking down onto Agios Nikolaos beach. This coastal taverna serves all the Greek classics and is well worth the cliff walk to get there (arriving by boat is also an option, though you might prefer to work up an appetite for lunch). On the menu, you’ll find the likes of lobster, whole grilled octopus, anchovy bruschetta and catch-of-the-day linguini – all with a side of sea views. Where to stay in Folegandros Anemi Making the most of its traditional Aegean dome architecture, five-star Anemi offers a modern take on Cycladic style: picture white-washed walls with pops of colour and bedrooms with subtly sculptural furniture and décor. Next to Chochlidia beach, this sister property to design-focused Athens Was offers high-end spa facilities, an outdoor pool with sea views (some suites have private pools) and a yoga deck. anemihotel.gr More travel guides Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
11 unique foodie-friendly hiking trails in Europe
From fruit orchards in France to cheese trails in Switzerland, these are the ultimate foodie hikes to know
Exploring destinations on foot provides fantastic insights into regions, cultures and local life which simply wouldn’t be possible when travelling by car. The best bit? Some of the most fascinating guided walking trails are food-themed ones, providing brilliant opportunities to fuel explorations with regional delicacies and mouthwatering insights into the ingredients you’re most likely to find on local menus. To sate your appetite, we’ve taken a closer look at our favourite food-themed walking trails, designed for hikers craving a deep dive into 11 European destinations famous for their gastronomy. Green Route 3, Valencia, Spain Valencia’s Green Routes are a mouthwatering tangle of hiking trails, perfect for walkers keen to learn more about the region’s culinary offerings. Route Three takes in Valencia’s so-called pantries: L’Albufera Natural Park (the birthplace of paella), fruit orchards, rice fields and stunning stretches of Mediterranean coastline. The countless family-run restaurants lining the route include Villa Indiano, where Chabe Soler (winner of the first Paella World Cup) serves up dishes inspired by traditional Valencian cookbooks. “While our paella is iconic, I recommend lesser-known dishes which showcase Valencia’s sea, farmland and wetlands,” says Soler. “Anguila i napicol, prepared with eel from the Albufera, captures the essence of our wetlands, and arròs amb bledes, made with vegetables from La Huerta, reflects the richness of our farmland.” Stay at La Mozaira, a charming boutique hotel. Much of the ingredients used by La Mozaira’s restaurant comes from the hotel’s gardens. Route des Fruits, Normandy, France Normandy’s Route des Fruits, which connects Jumièges and Duclair, is a 62-kilometre hiking and cycling trail weaving through Normandy’s most fertile farmlands and along the River Seine. The microclimate here is perfect for fruit growing, and the area’s famous white cliffs are the star of the show, reflecting heat while offering protection from cold winds. Highlights include the cherry and plum trees and the redcurrant, raspberry and blackcurrant bushes growing along the route, along with the fifth-century Abbaye et parc de Jumièges, one of France’s oldest Benedictine monasteries (its monks initially grew vines before replacing them with apple and pear trees). Base yourself at Domaine le Clos des Fontaines, where bedrooms are in historic half-timbered buildings, and where aches and pains can be soothed at the hotel’s spa. Wine and Fish Route (GR38), Basque Country, Spain This 166-kilometre route (don’t panic – it’s easily broken down into shorter stretches) begins in the historic town of Oyón before twisting its way to Bermeo, via vineyards, the Cantabrian Mountains and ancient beech forests. It’s a brilliant route for hikers who want to explore beyond La Rioja’s famous vineyards, walking in the footsteps of fishermen, farmers and traders who sold their produce at local markets. There are numerous opportunities for detours, whether it’s the small town of Getaria where hikers can tour its anchovy factory, Pasaia, with its fisherman’s taverns and family-run seafood restaurants, or Navarre, where specialities include sweet, smoky cheese made with milk from the local Latxa sheep. For a vineyard stay with a real wow factor, consider Hotel Viura, a four-star hotel surrounded by vines and with a striking cubic design inspired by stacks of cubes. The Hallertau Hop Trail, Bavaria, Germany A meandering 170-kilometre hiking and cycling route which passes through the Hallertau (otherwise known as the world’s largest hop-growing area), the start of this trail is just a few kilometres from Munich, so you can pair the city break with a walk along the trail. Information boards along the route provide fascinating insights into hops, known here as 'green gold', and grown on tall trellises which line much of the trail. Equally stunning are the towns you’ll pass through – places like Wolnzach, where a traditional maypole towers over the town square. It’s also where you’ll find the German Hops Museum, where exhibits include a display of beer bottles representing the thousands of brands (whether it’s Singha or Sam Adams) that use Hallartau hops. Stay at the old town’s luxurious Rosewood hotel and you’ll be just a short walk from the legendary Hofbrauhaus where you can pair freshly-baked pretzels with huge steins of beer. Schladminger Tauern High Trail, Styria, Austria This 70-kilometre route, stretching from Hochwurzen to St. Nikolai im Sölktal, is another one easily broken down into shorter stages, although it’s also lined with cosy mountain refuges perfect for hikers tackling it in one go. Top tip: choose mountain huts that display the Austrian Alpine Association’s “So schmecken die Berge” (taste of the mountains) certification seal so you can try the finest local cuisine – such as local delicacy Ennstaler Steirerkas, a cow’s milk cheese which is both spicy and sour. At The Waldhaeuslalm, a pretty mountain hut where delicacies include Kaspreßknödelsuppe (cheese dumpling soup), you’ll enjoy striking views over the Untertal valley – one of several breathtaking spots along the route. “For me, the most spectacular sight on the trail is the Klafferkessel,” says local hiking guide Gerhard Pilz. “It’s a plateau 2,300m above sea-level with around 30 lakes scattered across the high alpine scenery. The Schladminger Tauern range’s tallest mountains frame this plateau, and with the lakes and flora it feels like another world." Engelberg Alpine Cheese Trail, Engelberg, Switzerland Unsurprisingly, there’s no shortage of cheese on this 47-kilometre alpine trail, which winds around the Engelberg region. Seven dairies (all of which can be visited on guided tours) and numerous mountain restaurants line the route. One of the most awe-inspiring sections of the hike is the stretch which snakes through the waterfall-dotted Surenental valley, home to three alpine dairies. Energy levels dwindling? You can rest weary legs by hopping on a cable car for one of the steepest ascents. It’s another route with plenty of opportunities to sample local delicacies, one of which is Älplermagronen. “Everyone should try Älplermagronen,” says Ruedi Zurfluh, co-owner of the family-run Alp Hobiel, a hig-altitude mountain hut on the western side of Engelberg’s Surenen Pass. “This dish, made from pasta and potatoes, lots of cheese, a little cream and garnished with roasted onions, is best enjoyed with apple sauce.” Carb coma here we come… The Tissington Trail, Peak District, UK Foodies love the Peak District for its local, seasonal cuisine, with regional specialities such as Bakewell tarts and crumpet-like pikelets. There’s no shortage of local treats for those hiking this easy-going 20-kilometre hiking and cycling route stretching between Parsley Hay and Ashbourne. Sitting in the footprint of the former London and North Western Railway, the trail was once used to transport milk from Derbyshire to London. You'll pass through old station platforms and signal boxes, while wildflowers such as cowslips provide bursts of colour in spring and summer. The historic town of Ashbourne, which has over 200 listed buildings, is famous for its gingerbread, first made with a recipe obtained from the French prisoners of war kept here during the Napoleonic wars (1799-1815). Other essential stop-offs include Hartington, known as a centre of cheese production. Head to the Hartington Cheese Shop to sample local cheeses such as the Hartington Bombardier – a strong creamy cheddar. In Tissington Village, refuel at Herbert’s Tearoom, with its exposed brickwork and vintage chandeliers. We recommend the Derbyshire oatcakes with caramelised onion. Saar-Hunsrück-Steig Trail, Upper Moselle, Germany For a truly monumental hike, consider this 415-kilometre route, which is split into 27 stages and connects the Roman city of Trier with Boppard on the Rhine. Short on time? We suggest tackling Stage Five, which passes the Losheim Reservoir and offers ample opportunities to try local cuisine, whether it’s at one of the cafés in riverside Weiskirchen (Café Louis’s cakes are legendary) or a restaurant on the banks of Lake Losheim. Try Hochwälder Braugasthaus, where the menu is inspired by the tri-border region of France, Luxembourg and Saarland. Another popular local ingredient is the Saarland potato, used to make dishes such as dibbelabbes, an oven-baked potato-leek hash with bacon. Potatoes also dominate the menu at Kell am See’s Hotel zur Post, where almost everything comes from local suppliers. “Our Hochwälder Kartoffel-Röstinchens (Hochwald potato roasts) with peach chutney are especially popular,” says owner Michael Krämer. The Menalon Trail, Arcadia, Greece Another long-distance route, the 75-kilometre Menalon Trail is divided into eight stages. It connects the villages of Stemnitsa and Lagkadia, weaving through stunning natural landscapes such as the Lousios River Gorge, the Mylaion River valley and mountainous Gortynia. And you’ll never go hungry; in Arcadia, every town and village has its own speciality, whether it’s pasto (fragrant smoked pork), galatopita, which are pies made with milk and sugar or Mantinia wine, famous for its floral notes. One of the most popular stretches of the walk connects Zigovisti and Elati, mountain villages surrounded by springs and perched on the edge of the breathtaking Vlachika Plateau. The trail is lined with small hotels and tavernas, although you’ll find the widest range of hotels in Vytina, including the sleek Nymfasia Resort, where the Luxury Suite comes with its very own sauna. Signature Trail, Stockholm, Sweden Sweden’s Signature Trails are designed to showcase the country’s most beautiful landscapes, and this easily accessible route, which covers 62 kilometres and passes through parks, forests and historic estates on the city’s outskirts, provides a whole new perspective on Sweden’s capital. It’s easily broken down into smaller sections, whether it’s Section One, which connects Kallhäll and Barkarby and where farms such as Eggby Farm and Överjärva Farm, both of which have cafés, double as brilliant pitstops, or the Överjärva Farm–Gärdet stretch, where inlets such as Edsviken offer the perfect opportunity for a dip in the Baltic sea, followed by a fika (the coffee and cake fix beloved by Swedes) at one of the many cafés. Try Gateau Edsviken for the delicious vanilla buns or salted caramel pastries. Or both… Olive Trail, Garda Trentino, Italy Created in 2024, this short-and-sweet seven-kilometre trail twists between the olive groves of Arco. You’ll find over 40,000 olive trees here, along with numerous opportunities to learn about olive oil production, including at agritourism hotels such as Agriturismo Maso Botes, which offers olive oil tasting masterclasses and tours of their on-site mill. For the most beautiful views, local olive producer Andrea Santuliana suggests heading for the Baone Slabs, a craggy landscape between Riva del Garda and Lake Garda. “My favourite stretch of the trail winds along the foothills of the Baone Slabs – a truly unique place, where one can admire the tenacity and quiet resilience of centuries-old olive trees, rooted in the harsh, stony ground known in the local dialect as preèra.” Related content Best hotels in Wales Best UK islands for food lovers European hidden gem hotels 10 best European hotels with Michelin starred restaurants Best day trips from London by train Best seaside staycations Best restaurants in St Albans Best new restaurants in the UK
Why I love The Julian Alps, Slovenia's lush green region
David Žefran, head chef of two-Michelin-starred Milka in Slovenia, shares what makes the cuisine of his home region unique
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of this mountainous region so special from local chef David Žefran. From wine harvest celebrations to forest floor foraging and freshwater seafood, there is plenty for foodies to enjoy. Make sure you include a couple of days in the capital exploring Ljubljana's best restaurants. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, Istria in Croatia, the Algarve in Portugal or Cork in Ireland. Julian Alps cuisine: 10 things we love Cross-alpine culture The beautiful thing about culture and cuisine is it can’t be contained. Slovenian produce and traditions are intertwined with those from neighbouring countries across the region – Italian snails and Austrian strawberry farms, for example, might be the closest to us to source. Ottoman legacy The Ottomans brought with them a love of grilled meats and fried breads. A popular dish still on many menus in the area is čevapčiči – small Bosnian-style shish kebabs in a grilled lepinja bread pocket topped with kaymak cheese that slowly melts into the bread, often served with roasted peppers. Austro-Hungarian influence The Austro-Hungarian empire left its mark on Slovenian cuisine – think Hungarian goulash with polenta, fluffy shredded kaiserschmarrn and potato dumplings, or knödels, filled with apricot or plum. Family-run gostilnas still serve this style of food, preserving the heritage. Agrarian culture The region is rooted in agricultural practices so we have many hearty mountain dishes to sustain through the winter – kranjska klobasa sausages with fermented cabbage, ričet barley stew and jota, a sauerkraut and bean stew. Walnuts are everywhere We are lucky to have walnut trees all over the region and we use the crop in everything from liqueurs to breads and sweet treats. They are rolled with buckwheat dough and soured cream into štruklji dumplings or baked into sweet dough to create potica for special occasions. Freshwater fish Our lakes and rivers are abundant with freshwater seafood, from the Drava’s crayfish to the Soča river’s trout and Lake Bohinj’s char. We often eat this fresh and grilled with seasonal vegetables and salads. Wild game We have a responsibility to adapt to our environment, for example during venison hunting season we enjoy everything from venison stew with mash and lingonberry jam to deer heart ragu. I also use game meat in elevated dishes such as wild boar ’nduja and beetroot with bear fat sauce. Forest floor foraging Foraging is part of life here. We forage frequently from the forest floor and mountain ridges. Yields include an eclectic variety of wild herbs, spruce tips, pine cones and ramsons, often dried into Julian Alps tea. Families forage blueberries to create their own unique desserts, for example traditional sweet omelette, pohorska omleta, filled with fresh berries and wild blueberry jam. Wine harvest celebrations Slovenia has a rich wine culture and Martinovanje, or St Martin’s Day, is one of our most joyful traditions. After the grapes are pressed and fermentation begins we celebrate with roast duck or goat with red cabbage and mlinci – crispy flatbread softened by pouring beef broth over the top. Eco-conscious culture Slovenia is a green country with sustainability deeply embedded into its customs. Many of us have gardens where we grow mostly organic produce, harvesting only what we need. There is something special about picking something fresh and cooking it immediately. More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
From the buzz of capital city Lisbon to the beachy wilderness of Comporta, these are the best places to visit in Portugal for foodies
Looking for food trips to take in Portugal? Check out our guide to the best places across the country to eat and drink, from the must-visit cities of Porto and Lisbon to eating on the beach in Comporta, vineyard stays for wine fans and discovering local pastries in the countryside. For more travel inspiration, check out our best French food trips, best Spanish food trips or best Morocco food trips. Not sure where to go? Browse our guide to the best European city breaks or our picks of the best European vineyards to visit. 8 best Portuguese food trips Lisbon For a budget-friendly city break Portugal's buzzing capital has undergone something of a culinary revolution. Time Out Market is a well-known stop on any Lisbon food journey for a reason, with 30 of the city’s best chefs selling small, reasonably priced plates alongside local wines and fresh lemonade, from a gathering of stalls. Another popular spot is Ramiro, serving great-value seafood in a rustic setting with a buzzy atmosphere. For modern spins on Portuguese cuisine, try Mini Bar for contemporary tapas and cocktails or Prado for updated versions of classic Portuguese dishes. For shopping, head out of the centre of the city to LX Factory, where Lisbon’s young creatives have set up shop in dozens of old fabric factories, with a flea market taking place every Sunday. Check out our full guide to the best places to eat in Lisbon for more ideas. Where to stay: North of Lisbon’s botanical gardens, in a 20th-century townhouse in the Praça das Amoreiras area, you'll find Casa Amora. Each bedroom in this charming B&B is inspired by a different Portuguese figure, from poets to Fado singers, actresses and painters. Soak up the charm of dazzling ceramic tiles, private balconies, embellished ceilings and wrought-iron bath tubs. Casa Amora’s cook, Nita, has been there since day one and her homemade breakfasts in the colourful courtyard – featuring pastéis de nata, almond cake and homemade jams to spread onto warm croissants, along with local charcuterie, fresh orange juice and coffee – are legendary. Doubles from £155, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Porto For eating like a local Located in the north of the country, Portugal's elegant second city should be next on your list if you've already ticked off Lisbon. Get stuck into the local tipple with a tasting flight of port at Taylor's Port House, worth the climb up the hill and over the famous Luís I bridge. For more traditional delicacies, Manteigaria is still the must-visit bakery for warm pastel de nata and you'll be queuing alongside locals at A Casa Guedes for loaded pork sandwiches. If you're self-catering or just like to explore a good food market, the 19th-century Mercado do Bolhão dazzles with fruit and veg, cured hams, regional cheeses and freshly caught fish. Check out our full guide to Porto for more inspiration and top restaurant picks. Where to stay: Rosa Et Al Townhouse is a six-room boutique hotel complete with a dinky walled garden to eat breakfast in the sunshine. Rooms feature original wooden floorboards, cornicing and sash windows that lead to balconies, and are made even more beautiful with claw-footed baths, contemporary furniture and local art. The reception desk even doubles up as a trendy food shop. Doubles from £111, check availability at booking.com. Cascais For a seaside break Just 30 minutes outside Lisbon sits Cascais, a port town with a sparkling beach that attracts day-trippers and weekenders from the city. Start your day at old-school Sacolinha, a bakery on Cascais' main palm-tree-lined street, for breakfast custard tarts and mini cheesecakes to take to the beach. If you're visiting on a Wednesday or Saturday, take time to explore the traditional market in the morning before it slows after lunch. It's only right to have seafood while you're on the coast – our pick is Marisco na Praça. The bustling fish market sits on the other side of a glass wall partition – head to the counter and choose your catch, then watch as chefs prepare simple dishes from it. For vegetarians, Galeria House of Wonders serves some of the best veggie food in town, including homemade tortilla wraps and cumin-spiked shakshuka. Head up to the vibrant rooftop for the best seats. Pick up an afternoon ice cream from family-run Santini (which also has shops in Lisbon and Porto). For sundowners with ocean views, head to Bago a Vin, with its terrace and panoramic views. See our full guide to Cascais for more ideas. Alentejo For exploring Portugal's rural heartland Field-to-fork and vine-to-glass are ways of life in Portugal’s fertile heartland. Fuel a tour of the region’s hilltop villages and rolling country estates with local delicacies and hearty traditional dishes. Wander the streets of the whitewashed village Monsaraz and stop off at Sabores de Monsaraz for lunch. Pork is king here: you eat every part, cooked just about every way – especially if the meat in question (as in this case) is porco preto, from black pigs fed on the acorns of the oaks that cloak the plains below the village. Next, wine buffs should head south through wildly beautiful landscapes studded with cork oaks and rosette-like rock roses to visit small family-run wine estate Quetzal, owned by the Dutch de Bruins family. Here, a state-of-the-art winery combines viticulture with food and modern art; works from the de Bruins’ collection are exhibited below the estate’s restaurant. Visit the medieval walled city of Evora for traditional pastries at Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala, petiscos (Portugal's equivalent of tapas) at Botequim da Mouraria's tiny counter, and the renowned partridge stew at Fialho. Where to stay: the São Lourenço do Barrocal estate has been owned by the same family for 200 years. Its farming traditions live on but are now combined with five-star hospitality; cowsheds and old farmworkers’ quarters have been turned into simple but stylish hotel accommodation with brick floors and locally woven fabrics. Don't be fooled by the simple decor – there's also a glamorous 20-metre pool, spa and impressive hotel bar and restaurant. Doubles from £491, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Comporta For beach chic For a weekend of local wines, fresh seafood and earthy rice dishes head an hour south of Lisbon to the wild sand-fringed coastline, pine forests and stylish beach retreats of Comporta. The area has long been protected by its status as a nature reserve (at its northern end is the Sado estuary, home to bottlenose dolphins, flamingos and storks). Add into the mix a handful of hippie-chic shops and galleries, local vineyards, upmarket horse riding and kayaking operators, a smattering of rustic rice and seafood restaurants – plus a couple of more elegant options for craft cocktails and finer Portuguese dining – and you have a recipe for the perfect summer weekend away. Comporta itself is a small, pretty village lined with cobbled streets, blue-and-white-painted rice barns, shuttered low-rise buildings and sweet-scented Indian neem trees. Restaurante São João is a popular spot serving traditional dishes including select-at-the-table starter trays, brimming pots of seafood rice and chocolate mousse for dessert, while Cavalarica is a beautifully elegant restaurant and cocktail joint set in an old stables right in the centre of town. Join the locals at Cegonha, a simple roadside restaurant specialising in grilled meat and fish cooked over coals, served in huge portions. Rumour has it that local chefs eat at Dona Bia, which serves traditional regional fare including porco Alentejana (a classic dish of pork and clams). Where to stay: the 17-acre estate of Sublime Comporta, its rooms, suites and cabana villas peppered among umbrella pines, cork trees, frangipane flowers and olives, is a blueprint for low-impact hotel design – stylish and subtle rather than dominating the surrounding landscape. Inside all is minimal and white, with the odd pop of polished concrete or warm wood. Though not directly on the beach (the closest is a five-minute drive away), the vibe is that of a grown-up, romantic beach retreat. There’s also a dedicated spa, using organic Amala products for its range of soothing treatments, and a yoga pavilion. Doubles from £561, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com L’and Vineyards For wine buffs This elegant 26-suite spa hotel combines contemporary design and gourmet cooking, set among vineyards in Portugal’s Alentejo region, an hour’s drive from Lisbon. A meal in the futuristic, pendant-hung restaurant, whose glass walls frame the vineyards, is the big draw. Chef José Tapadejo was born nearby in Castelo de Vide and trained in Portugal, but he’s also worked in Scandinavia, so his dishes are creative interpretations of regional classics, often using fermented and foraged ingredients – local black pork, scarlet prawns and pike-perch, on a cushion of Alentejo’s must-eat migas. Being surrounded by six hectares of organic vineyards, you’ll want to taste L’and’s own wines, made from a blend of native grapes, such as Touriga Nacional, and international varieties such as Alicante Bouschet and Syrah. Pick of the bunch is L’and’s full-bodied Reserva Red 2016. On site you can do tastings, and vineyard and winery tours, and the hotel can arrange visits to neighbouring vineyards too. Doubles from £197, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Algarve For gourmet coastline Fringed by limestone coastline and sandy coves, Portugal’s Algarve region is a stunning foodie destination. Seafood is a highlight, but black pork, sheep’s cheese, olives, oregano, tomatoes and oranges are also cultivated locally – and are easily found at local farmers’ markets, beach shacks and restaurants. Homemade piri piri chicken or shrimp, an Algarve speciality, is everywhere, and in the mountains beyond the coast, you’ll find aromatic pork stews, slow-cooked wild boar and honey cake. On the coast, try cataplanas and copper pots brimming with fresh seafood and rice. Visit Olhão's vibrant fish market, hop on a ferry to the sandy beaches of Armona Island and cycle along the Fuseta eco trail in the wetlands, home to oyster farms, eclectic birds and two families of flamingos. Where to stay: In the heart of a residential hamlet on the border of the Algarve’s Ria Formosa lagoon, Carlos Fernandes has lovingly converted his grandparents’ house into a striking boutique hotel. Many original features remain – Santa Catarina flooring, curved brick ceilings and stone fireplaces – interspersed with tasteful Algarvian knick-knacks for pops of colour. An honesty bar is stocked with Algarvian wines and Portuguese spirits. Continental breakfast is served home-style, laid on lace tablecloths in the kitchen. Make your selection from the likes of carrot and saffron bundt cake, fruits hand-plucked from the property, and Portuguese cold cuts – order your preference of eggs and take to the poolside terrace to enjoy beneath the dappled shade of the trees. Doubles from €220 per night, check availability at booking.com or welcomebeyond.com Tavira For historical charm The cobbled streets of Tavira are filled with historical charm – explore plenty of churches in the old town and Tavira Castle (a partially ruined medieval fortress), then follow the river down to the coastline for unspoiled wide sandy beaches and nearby islands to explore, accessible by ferry. The coastal location on the eastern Algarve means there is seafood aplenty here, with octopus and cataplana stew being must try dishes. Where to stay: Just a 10-minute drive from Tavira, Conversas de Alpendre is a family-run boutique hotel that offers the best of both coast and countryside. More homestay than hotel, the small farmhouse is simply adorned with tiles, fabrics and artefacts from the eastern Algarve, set within sprawling grounds of orchards, orange groves and a sleek saltwater pool. The hotel has traditional rooms and suites along with a stunning treehouse that sits more than six metres high atop a carob tree. It boasts two private terraces with sweeping views of the ocean on one side and the countryside on the other. The food here leans into its Portuguese roots with hints of neighbouring Spanish influences, and is based on local seasonal ingredients. Complimentary homemade cake is available daily. Come evening, a set surprise menu is an option – a different three-course meal each night, featuring dishes like slow-cooked beef brisket, fresh fish and traditional desserts like arroz doce, a Portuguese rice pudding. Breakfast runs at a gentle pace and is served until late in the day, with fresh bread, regional cheeses, homemade jams and local fruit on offer. Check rates and availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or en.conversasdealpendre.com More travel guides Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels