Looking for places to visit in France? Check out our top French food trips and take a spin around olive groves Uzes, relax in luxury in Provence or sample patisserie in Paris
Looking for the best food trips to take in France? Check out our guide to the best places across the country to eat and drink, from hearty ski food in the French Alps to undiscovered corners of Provence. For more French inspiration, check out our picks of the best hotels in Paris and foodie guide to Lyon, then hop across the border with our guide to the best Spanish food trips or further afield with our best Morocco food trips. 16 best French food trips Uzes For chocolat-style villages Pungent truffles and gummy bears? Just two of the more unusual ingredients on the menu in Uzès, one of those achingly pretty French towns whose Chocolat-style looks make it seem like a Hollywood film set. Indeed, its plane-tree-pricked Place aux Herbes once starred in the Gérard Depardieu movie Cyrano de Bergerac. Uzès is surrounded by truffle plantations and hosts a truffle festival every January, while confectionary giant Haribo opened Le Musée du Bonbon here in 1996. The company is synonymous with the gummy bears invented by German founder Hans Riegel in 1920. Your ticket comes with a bag of sweets to suck as you wander from room to room learning about the history of sugar and the candy-making process before ‘nosing’ some of the ingredients. Pressing a button releases a puff of vanilla, cacao or liquorice into the air. This less well-known corner of France is just 40 minutes from Avignon, where you can jump off the Eurostar as it hurtles on to Marseilles. Once here the pace is far more leisurely. Uzès has its share of sites to tick off including the cathedral of Saint Théodorit with its ornate Romanesque bell tower, the Fenestrelle, the Duke’s palace and the Medieval Garden in the grounds of a ruined château which has around 450 plants, many medicinal, and is a lovely spot to unwind with a liquorice tisane after clambering up the tower’s 100 steps for a sweeping panorama. Be sure to visit Uzès on a Wednesday or Saturday when you’ll find a food market in full swing. And don't miss a visit to Boulangerie Fougasse d’Uzès where you can buy fougasse filled with anchovies and olives. Where to stay: spend the night at boutique hotel La Maison d'Uzes set in a listed building the heart of the old town. The hotel restaurant, all parquet floors and vibrant velvet chairs, serves modern French dishes and local specialities, and the hotel has a spa, Roman baths and hammam. Doubles from £255, check availability at booking.com Read our full guide to Uzes, here. Provence For luxury relaxation Head to Provence to explore pretty villages, ancient vineyards and historical cities. Hike up Mount Ventoux, head to a wine-tasting at Cheateau Pesquie (and enjoy picnic in the pretty garden) or visit the idyllic village of L'Isle Sur-La-Sorgue on market day for antiques, bountiful fresh produce and lavender souvenirs to take home. The pretty walled city of Avignon is perfect for soaking up some history. Where to stay: Hilltop village Crillon Le Brave is a vision of Provençal style; a clutch of honey-hued, pastel-shuttered houses surrounded by slopes carpeted with olive groves and vineyards. The top of the village is now the effortlessly elegant five-star Hotel Crillon Le Brave. The highlight has to be the 180-degree views of unspoilt rolling countryside, vineyards, olive groves and Mount Ventoux. Made of nine houses linked together by the village streets, the 34 rooms are stylishly decorated in soothing neutral tones with Diptyque products in every bathroom. After a day of exploring, return to the hotel for dinner on the terrace at La Table du Ventoux. Admire the panoramic views whilst dining on seasonal French cuisine – expect local asparagus in spring and strawberries in summer. Spend your time playing boules in the terraced garden, relaxing by the pool the or having a massage in the tiny spa set in atmospheric ancient vaulted stables. Should you be able to tear yourself away from the hotel, borrow e-bikes to explore through fields and tiny villages. Doubles from £408, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Cognac For brandy, vineyards and medieval towns In southwestern France the Cognac region – birthplace of the world-famous grape brandy – is a rural one of rolling hills laced with vineyards and pristine medieval towns. It’s an area ripe for exploration, speckled with distilleries and cognac houses, many of which you can visit, from river boat rides and VR tours at Hennessy to intimate private dinners at Delamain, cocktail mixing at Château Montifaud and, of course, cognac tastings galore – sip neat or copy the locals and mix with tonic water. Many producers also use cognac to make a fortified wine, pineau des charentes, which makes a deliciously fruity aperitif. The town of Cognac is where some of the biggest cognac brands are located and makes a great base for exploration. Its quiet cobbled streets, full of medieval and 18th-century architecture, as well as the quay-lined Charente river, are perfect for walking off cognac tastings. It's also where you’ll find buzzy, industrial-chic Poulpette which has a counter lined with natural wines and a roster of pared-back seasonal plates. Or, further afield, head to Montendre for lunch at La Quincaillerie, an ironmonger turned restaurant with a classic French menu (don’t miss the cheese tray). Where to stay: In the heart of Cognac, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa is a 19th-century cognac house turned five-star retreat, a seamless fusion of period architecture with modern glass structures. Interiors cocoon you in buttery neutrals, and rooms come stocked with French toiletries and madeleines on arrival. Book a junior suite on the upper floor of the original 19th-century part of the hotel, which comes with exposed wooden beams. The Michelin-starred Les Foudres, in the old ageing cellar, serves tasting menus that ripple with seasonal, local produce, while the more casual La Distillerie serves classic Gallic fare as well as a majestic breakfast buffet that includes fresh breads and pastries, eggs cooked to order and pain perdu. From €265 per room, check availability at booking.com. Lille For a gourmet city break Close to the Belgian border, Lille is but 1 hour 22 minutes on the Eurostar from London, and one of northern France’s undiscovered culinary gems. It has traditional Flemish estaminet restaurants like Estaminet La Ch’Tite Brigitte, which serves regional classics like carbonnade beef stew in beer, leek flamiche and escargot in maroilles cheese in an eclectic setting. Krevette is a stylish contemporary seafood bistrot serving the freshest local catch in dishes like breaded sardines with oyster mayonnaise and St Jacques with BBQ brown butter. Méert is a Lille institution famous for its pastel patisserie and caramel-filled waffles. Grand Scène is a colourful, neon-lit street-food market hall with 10 stands serving global specialities like tacos, bao, gyros and duck burgers. Finally, BierBuik is a trendy pink-tiled craft brew pub that also serves modern takes on Lille tavern dishes, including moules, crêpes, and some of the best frites in town. Bonnelles For a peaceful countryside escape Bonnelles is the idyllic setting to switch off, get outdoors and reset for a weekend. It’s a huge expanse of countryside just a short drive from Paris but it seems a world away from city life. Explore the protected Haute Vallée de Chevreuse Regional Natural Park or the Bonnelles Ponds nature reserve for serene walks. Le Barn is a must-visit for horse lovers, as it shares grounds with prestigious horsemanship school Haras de la Cense and is now offering a Horse Whisperer’s Experience for guests on Sundays. The two-and-a-half-hour experience introduces you to a horse, their training and behaviours, then gives you the chance to try out what you’ve learned at the lunge ring alongside an expert trainer. The venue is a popular retreat for Parisians looking to switch off from city life and is just as easily accessible from the UK, being just a 45-minute drive from Paris Orly airport. It champions local food, with a vast kitchen garden that provides a lot of the fruit and veg for the daily changing restaurant menu, designed by the head chef according to what’s in season. Other French classics, like award-winning cheese and wine, are locally sourced, and the simple breakfast is a treat. Think freshly baked baguettes, homemade jam, and bacon and eggs. Where to stay: Le Barn offers cosy rooms with tons of activities included in the price. From yoga to archery, there’s plenty on offer to occupy you while enjoying the 500-acre estate, full of grazing horses. The grounds have a sauna, hammam and Nordic baths, and two restaurants serving seasonal, locally sourced menus. Guests can also go for a massage, play board games by the fire or borrow an e-bike to explore the grounds, and kids can enjoy pony rides and games in the garden. Rooms are separate from the main building, across two converted barns with special suites available as well. Most have a balcony that overlooks the horse fields or the hotel’s lake (which is open for wild swimming if that’s your thing). Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com Normandy For local produce Calvados, cream, butter, cheese, apples, cider: like many places in France, Normandy is not easy on the arteries. It is, however, a superb place to sample AOC-status booze and food made by small, unfussy family producers, many of whom have been perfecting their produce since William the Conqueror started peppering the landscape with castles. Normandy boasts no fewer than 30 Michelin-starred restaurants and a packed calendar of food festivals throughout the year celebrating its natural larder, from the Fête du Camembert in Orbec in June, July’s oyster festival in Denneville, the Foire aux Fromages in Livarot in August, the scallop festival in Ouistreham in October and an annual cider festival in picturesque Beuvron-en-Auge. With 370 miles of coastline, menus are brimming with seafood. The region’s oysters have their own AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) and Port-en-Bessin’s scallops are justifiably famous – this is the home of coquilles St Jacques. The countryside is lush and green, grazed by native dairy herds, the region’s cheeseboard showcases the big four: livarot, neufchâtel, pont l’évêque and camembert de Normandie. The rolling hills are also blanketed with orchards of apples and pears, used to produce cider, calvados and poiré. Where to stay: soak up the impressive surroundings of the Château de la Puisaye, a rambling 18th-century property in Verneuil-sur-Avre, now an elegant b&b. British owners, Diana and Bruno Costes, have spent years renovating the Napolean III château, and now offer a handful of rooms in the main house, a studio over the stables and a holiday cottage: the old hunting lodge. Breakfast in the wood-panelled dining room is a delicious spread of home-baked bread and jams, fruit from their orchards, and local cheeses. Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com Brittany For the home of crêpes You’re never more than a frisbee’s throw from a crêperie in Brittany. The northwest corner of France is famous for its pancakes – sweet, wafer-thin crêpes smeared with salted caramel or buckwheat galettes stuffed with artisan sausage. It’s also a popular bucket-and-spade destination. But there’s more to Brittany than beaches and pancakes. Its larder is bulging with cider, oysters and onions; that French stereotype, the beret-clad man on a bike with a string of onions round his neck, was an ‘onion Johnny,’ hopping from Brittany to Britain to sell sweet, pink onions from Roscoff. Butter is also big in Brittany – rich, creamy and seasoned with fleur de sel from the Guérande. Where to stay: Right by the water’s edge in Dinard, an elegant resort town in Brittany whose belle époque villas and grand hotels still hint at the grandeur of days gone by, Hotel Castelbrac holds its own among the surroundings. This fortress-like jumble of manicured stonework, originally built in the 1930s as a marine research station, sits on the town’s eastern shoreline overlooking St Malo across the water. Inside there’s a sophisticated, modern vibe (think art deco-inspired headboards and bathroom fittings, columns intricately tiled with mosaics and porthole-like windows illuminating velvet banquettes in the bar) while panoramic seaside views reflect the hotel’s restive, peaceful atmosphere. Splash out on one of the prestige rooms and you can enjoy panoramic windows stretching across the entire front of the room. Walk-in rain showers come as standard but some rooms also have elegant bathtubs at the foot of the beds Pampering is very much the order of the day here. Guests have access to private boat trips, bespoke treatments by Parisian spa brand Thémaéand a stunning sliver of a pool – a heated outdoor lap pool that lies just above the shore (bob your head up between strokes and you can look out at the sea below). Doubles from £349, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Dordogne For rural idyll There’s a reason why the Dordogne river has long been a magnet for those of us in search of classic beauty: it undulates through some of the loveliest parts of France, curling round towns and villages of gasp-inducing gorgeousness and, despite the odd sighting of jet-skis, gives the impression that nothing much ever changes. Head to Souillac (not for food, but for the slightly creepy Automaton museum; unmissable if you love the bizarre). And Sarlat, whose Saturday market is almost impossibly over-subscribed at the height of the summer season. As with many tourist destinations, the restaurants haven’t the greatest reputation, buy fat, vac-packed sausages and figs from the covered market in the Église Sainte Marie. For a blissful bout of people-watching at the heart of the market square, visit hilarious Jimmy’s Bar, a rockabilly French fantasy of a US diner, to eat oysters from one of the nearby market stalls and quantities of chilled Bergerac rosé. Where to stay: Chateau de la Treyne, clinging to the steep banks of the river, has baronial, wood-panelled rooms, vast open fireplaces and sense of serenity. Breakfast includes tiny, freshly made omelettes, cured ham, just-baked baguette and pastries, homemade jams and butter so luscious you could eat it by the spoonful. Dinner at the Chateau's Michelin-starred restaurant is quite the event, course after course of inventive cuisine making full use of the area’s native bounty – Quércy lamb, Aubrac beef and truffles (of course), in a tapestried room breathing stories of the past. Check rates and availability at chateaudelatreyne.com Read more about edible delights of the Dordogne here Sète For seaside fun Sète’s sandy beaches are thronged with visitors during summer, but the peninsula has bigger fish to fry than tourism – it’s the largest fishing port on the French Mediterranean coast, and behind it is the oyster-filled Thau lagoon. It’s picturesque, too – from the hillside ‘Little Naples’ district to its boat-lined canals, the 19th-century facades are an attractive reminder of the town’s prosperous wine-trading heritage. Local recipes – such as octopus-stuffed tielle pie – have stood the test of time, many brought by the Italian immigrants that settled here in the last century. The best seafood restaurants are along Quai Maximin Lucciardi near the harbour, where you’re likely to spot fishermen unloading still-writhing stock. Where to stay: Le Grand Hotel retains much of its belle époque charm. Velvet curtains and chandeliers set the scene for market-fresh ingredients at Quai 17, the hotel’s opulent restaurant; try the signature lobster risotto with bisque sauce, or local speciality bourride, a monkfish stew with aïoli. The bright bedrooms are spread across three elegant floors – go for one that overlooks the canal and gaze at the shimmering image of buildings and boats reflected in the water. Doubles from £149, check availability at booking.com Languedoc Roussillon For less crowded South of France West of the glitz and glamour of the Côte d’Azur is a quieter, less crowded corner of the South of France: the Languedoc Roussillon. Sweeping from Provence to the Pyrénées via a scenic string of historic towns and villages, shimmering coastline and wild, untamed countryside, the region is also one of the oldest and largest wine growing areas of the world. Inland you can take to the lazy waters of the Canal du Midi or the rugged surroundings of the Cévennes National Park or visit one of the many vineyards of the region. Historic local towns with their bustling produce markets like Pézanas, Béziers and Narbonne provide plenty of scope for picking up ingredients if you want to self-cater. Where to stay: wine forms the central theme of Château St. Pierre de Serjac, a 200-acre hotel-cum-vineyard outside Puissalicon. At its heart is a turreted, 19th century chateau surrounded by fragrant gardens, olive trees and palms. From its windows guests can gaze out over a huge, heated infinity pool onto regimented rows of vines and, beyond it, the fertile Langeudocienne landscape. The ground floor is home to the reception area, bar and a fine dining restaurant, and is decorated in a sophisticated palette of peacock and teal with Art Deco-style chandeliers picked up in the antiques market in nearby Béziers. A Cinq Mondes spa, with tranquil indoor pool, completes the picture. Upstairs in the château are eight, luxurious suites, fittingly decked out with chandeliers, antiques, roll-top baths and singular touches such as (in an eaves room) the hand-painted walls of a former chapel. An extensive renovation has also seen the repurposing of the estates’ many outbuildings, resulting in 36-self catering apartments and houses. These are the real appeal for families. Sleeping two to eight, each one has been tastefully decorated in 50 shades of Elephant’s Breath with lots of linen, oak and wrought iron. They also come with high spec kitchens and all the latest tech – some of the larger properties also have fenced off pools. Amble over to the château for breakfast in the main restaurant – a spread of freshly baked croissants and pastries, fruit, yoghurt, cereals and hot dishes cooked to order. Doubles from £238, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com South Pigalle, Paris For Parisian patisserie The once overlooked SoPi neighbourhood is now a must-visit for its artisan patisseries, hip bistros and stellar cheese shops. If you're travelling to Paris for the patisserie alone, check out Sébastien Gaudard’s Rue des Martyrs boutique. Whether you want a choux bun, or a jar of crème de marrons (chestnut cream), you'll feel like a child in a sweet shop. They look almost too good to eat, but don't let that stop you. After all those cakes, a coffee might be in order, so stop off at KB Café Shop. After spending time in Sydney, the French owner wanted to bring some Australian influence back to France. It's got a relaxed vibe and the beans are roasted on site so they're as fresh as can be. Flaine For a foodie ski trip Looking for the best French ski trip? Set in the French Alps, Flaine is the ideal base for a weekend spent skiing and indulging in vin chaud and crepes. Restaurant Le Michet is set at a handy spot where many of the runs converge. It’s a place to wallow inside on a cold evening, protected by timber rafters, thick stone walls and central fireplace. If you’re after Savoyard specialities you’ll find everything from tartiflette to home-smoked trout and salmon on the menu but it’s worth experimenting with some of the more unusual dishes; the subtly spiced lentils with coconut milk and black rice (essentially a creamy dhal) is great post-ski fuel. Make sure you take a big enough suitcase to squirrel away some gourmet souvenirs from artisan food store Chez Bolzi on your way home. In the centre of Flaine Forum, close to the tourist office, almost everything it sells comes from within a 50km radius of Flaine; take your pick from reblochon and tome cheeses, Savoie salamis, beer from Brasserie Mont Blanc and Savoie-produced Pinot Noir and Cremant. Where to stay: Make Terminal Neige Totem your base, with its views out on the slopes and outdoor hot tub. The buffet food they offer is much more than your average spread, think plates of charcuterie and cheese, pan-fried seabass as well as fondue. Don’t miss out on the dessert bar – a place to indulge in Nutella mug cakes, made-to-order waffles and homemade bluberry marshmallows. If you need a break from all the skiing, head to one of the street food stalls in Flaine Forum and warm yourself up with hot crepes. Read our full guide to Flaine, here. Bordeaux For a winter getaway This city’s robust signature dishes, rib-sticking entrecôte cooked in red wine, butter, shallots, herbs and bone marrow sauce, confit duck and lamprey, come into their own in winter, and it’s an excellent place to shop for foodie stocking fillers. Each year, Bordeaux’s Allées de Tourny is transformed into a Christmas market with wooden huts and stalls selling local gifts, many of them food-related. Stock up on canelés from Baillardran and don’t miss Maison Darricau for handmade chocolates peppered with honey and spices. Where to stay: Twenty minutes’ drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the epitome of French country chic. There’s a stone manor house at its heart, a small lake, and a hard-working kitchen garden, plus a hamlet-like extension of suites. Great food and wine are the focus at this gastronomic getaway, but even the finest dining (the hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, holds two Michelin stars) is done without fuss. The newer, cabin-like suites (designed to reflect the oyster fishermen’s huts of Cap Ferret, in the nearby Arcachon Basin), with their whitewashed timber walls, retro-influenced furniture and spa-like bathrooms, are the ones to splash out on; in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by frogs as you return to your room along flower- and water-lined pathways. In the mornings, step onto your private terrace and watch carthorses ploughing the vines just outside. The three restaurants at Les Sources have most tastes covered. Celebrate a special occasion with dinner in La Grand’Vigne and enjoy a meal where even the table salts stick in the memory (one of ours, blended with Bordeaux pimento, was the colour of roast peppers). The cheeseboard comes with fresh cottage cheese, from a local dairy, served with a dot of cherry jam. Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Biarritz For a foodie French seaside trip If you’re looking for a French spring getaway, head to Biarritz – a glitzy seaside resort which is the perfect place for cheese lovers. Start off with a visit to Crampotte 30, an old fisherman's hut turned restaurant serving a selection of pintxos. Head to halles-biarritz for a selection of regional produce including dry-cured bayonne ham. Don’t leave before visiting Patisserie Miremont, a confectionary shop that dates back to the 19th century. Order the speciality which is a chocolate mousse cake called Le Beret Basque. Bayonne For a visit to the French capital of chocolate The tranquil city of Bayonne embodies the gastronomic energy of the Basque region, historically famed for its artisanal hams, and as the French capital of chocolate. The legendary Chocolat Cazenave serves up intense bubble-topped ‘sparkling’ hot chocolates in porcelain cups. Chocolaterie Xokola Etxetera specialises in chocolate spreads infused with spicy Espelette pepper, and L’Atelier du Chocolat Bayonne has its iconic Bayonne chocolate shard bouquets. Eat pintxos including jamon croquettes, truffled croque monsieur and Pyrenees milk-fed lamb kebabs at Les Basses Pyrénées bar. Then, for dinner, head to La Brasserie Basa for fish dishes with daily catch from the local village of Saint-Jean-De-Luz, and sweet creations such as buckwheat almond praline choux to finish. Europcamp Domaine de Massereau For a foodie family camping trip Eurocamping is an affordable way to have a family holiday, but Domaine de Massereau promises so much more than just a campsite. The on-site vineyard produces 30,000 bottles a year, and you can sample of few of them on the free one hour-tour and tasting each evening. If you find one you like, stock up as they’re rarely exported. If you want to eat on-site, you can order pizzas fresh from the wood-fired oven or seafood platters piled high with crabs, razor clams and langoustines. Should you wish to explore the local area, head into Sommières – a beautiful French town with shuttered buildings and market squares. Read our full guide to Eurocamp Domaine de Massereau, here. 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Best restaurants in Tbilisi: where locals eat in the vibrant Georgian capital
Explore this energetic crossroads city via soup dumplings, supra-style sharing feasts and unique wines made using ancient techniques
Looking for restaurants in Tbilisi? Want to know where to eat and drink in the Georgian capital? Restaurateur Giorgi Mindiashvili showed me his favourite spots in his hometown, and shares a deep-dive into Georgian cuisine here. Where to eat and drink in Tbilisi, Georgia Shavi Lomi – for sharing-style suppers Named after Niko Pirosmani’s Black Lion painting, this stunning tree-lined courtyard and cosy converted house is popular with artsy locals. Centre stage is the gobi, a thali-style wooden sharing bowl filled with multicoloured pkhali dips, fresh cheeses and breads. Next comes the likes of stuffed lobiani, whole grilled aubergines doused in walnut and pomegranate sauce, Georgian lamb risotto and beef dolma with minted yogurt. Plus, layered honey cake for dessert. instagram.com/shavilomi_tbilisicuisine/ Craft – for cosy bistro feels A concept store turned bistro and wine bar with a warm, homely feel, showcasing ceramics from Georgian artisans on its blush pink walls. Alongside rotating wines from small-batch producers (Artana, Ethno, Kiketi Farm), authentic flavours and regional dishes are given a contemporary lift. Think pan-fried butter mushrooms in bazhe (spiced walnut sauce), fresh from the oven lavash flatbreads and marinated aubergine from the charcoal makali grill served with spiced green chilli ajika and red pepper pkhali. craftwinerestaurant.com Saperavi – for wine ice cream Look out for kiosks selling unique, purple-hued wine ice cream, including this pretty wooden domed kiosk perched above the river by the Second Bridge of Love. Order a cone piled high with wine soft serve and a glass of fresh pomegranate juice before heading to the atmospheric Orbeliani Baths for a rejuvenating sulfur soak and scrub. 8 Abano Turn Oro – for western Megrelian dishes Set in a former printing house with elegant interiors and a leafy courtyard, Oro is an ode to Georgia’s historic western Megrelian region, with a little spicier cuisine and unique preparation techniques – for example, its pizza-style khachapuri served with bubbling cheese on top. Try regional sharing feasts of elarji (pulled sulguni cheese melted into cornmeal ghomi), adjika-roasted corn on the cob, herb-flecked kharcho stew, roast shkmeruli chicken in a creamy garlic sauce and cottage cheese dumplings served with fig jam and soured cream. The wine list has a section dedicated to qvevri wines using ancient techniques from Tegani, Nareklishvili and Kviriashvili vineyards. orotbilisi.ge Caravanserai Bakery – for Georgian bakes Housed in a vaulted cellar hidden beneath Tbilisi's old town, this traditional Georgian bakery offers all kinds of baked goods, most notably khachapuri cheese breads. Female bakers in traditional aprons are on hand to guide tastings through the repertoire of curd cheese-filled imeruli, meat-filled kubdari and megruli with extra bubbling cheese on top. 13/40 Sioni St Kakhelebi – for farm-to-table Kakhetian cuisine On the outskirts of Tbilisi lies this popular roadside restaurant, where locals flock for long lunches. Most of the produce used in the sharing dishes is grown on the restaurant's own farm in the rich, fertile Kakheti region. Salads come jewelled with pomegranates and walnuts and platters of delicate khinkali were the freshest I tried in the city. Slow-cooked tomato and herb goat stew and juices from an assortment of shish-style mtsvadi skewers (goat, lamb, pork) can be mopped up with grilled flatbread pockets. The owners even make their own wine following the traditional qvevri method, while surplus grapes are used to make pelamushi pudding. instagram.com/kakhelebi/ Keto & Kote – for special occasions Offering sweeping views of the city from its expansive terrace, this beguiling 19th-century mansion is nestled into the trees in Tbilisi's Vera district. Inside, chandeliers, handwoven tapestries and murals add splashes of colour to the building's wooden floorboards, shutters and intricate cornicing. Contemporary takes on Georgian classics include red bean-filled lobiani, megrelian cheese pie, chikhirtma herby chicken broth and plenty of fresh zingy salads. A dessert table is laid with the likes of meringue pie, walnut honey cake and the signature cherry tart. instagram.com/ketoandkote/ Saamuri – for natural wine This natural wine bar and shop is a lesson in industrial chic, housed in a former sewing factory as part of urban space Fabrika. Its shiny walls are left bare save for contemporary wooden shelves from which a curation of natural Georgian wines shine. Sit at the tiled window counter to watch the world go by before hopping across the way to Popolo for thin-crust pizza if you've had too many dumplings. fabrikatbilisi.com Where to stay in Tbilisi – Stamba Stamba’s former life as a 1950s publishing house is embraced from the moment you enter – a functional printing press runs along the ceiling of the brutalist-style lobby, through which trees grow alongside concrete pillars. A mustard-hued wood oven for baking kachapuri takes centre stage in the main all-day Georgian European fusion brasserie, with the kitsch Pink Bar offshoot serving signature cocktails and a coffee and chocolate roastery for soothing treats. The building sprawls out in all directions, with original floor-to-ceiling windows opening into concrete jungle courtyards, co-working spaces and a dedicated wine bar and shop, Warehouse, where an ex-Noma sommelier guides guests through tastings from Georgia’s finest vineyards. Spacious rooms interweave industrial features with contemporary Georgian artwork, bold furnishings and mini libraries. Plush amenities include brass and copper bathtubs, state of the art coffee machines and regional spirits, and recipes to craft your own cocktails. stambahotel.com
Best restaurants in Athens: where a local eats in the Greek capital
Discover the tavernas with sun-dappled courtyards, the top bakeries, coolest wine bars and more with our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Athens
Looking for the best restaurants, bars and café's in Greece's foodie capital? We asked Athens-based Kate Lough for her top recommendations. For more European travel guides, check out our picks of the where to eat in Porto, best restaurants in Tbilisi, Georgia or our favourite European city breaks. After falling more and more in love with Athens over the past 18 months, I moved to its Kypseli neighbourhood in January 2025 – the fitting culmination of a childhood spent devouring Greek myths, exploring its sun-drunk islands and studying its ancient language. An undulating city that straddles ancient and modern, Athens fizzes with a creative energy. Its gastronomic scene also ripens from month to month, as homegrown chefs open dynamic restaurants and native wine producers bolster its drinks menus. From old-school classics to contemporary tavernas, here are a handful of my favourites, many of which celebrate homegrown ingredients, methods and vines. Best places to eat and drink in Athens Linou Soumpasis & Sia, Psiri Open since 2022, Linou Soumpasis & Sia is one of the best examples of Athens’ neo-gastronomy. It's a love letter to Greek produce and wines, including some brilliant pet nats, and most of its offerings are made from scratch. An all-white space is perked up with metal tables and chairs and wooden counters (a great option for solo diners), and warmed with skinny beeswax church candles — apt for a former candle shop. Choose from top quality dishes with a pescatarian leaning such as hot wild greens, tuna carpaccio in watermelon oil and grilled John Dory. New for 2025, it now serves breakfast — including a delicious schnitzel bun. Seychelles, Keramikos Located in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Keramikos, Seychelles is an older favourite on the neo-taverna scene. Always packed, this relaxed spot works just as well for a long lunch with friends as it does perching at the small bar for a late dinner à deux. The menu, inspired by small producers around Greece, changes regularly, but make sure to try its stalwart beef pappardelle, topped with soft mizithra cheese. Taverna Ton Filon, Kolonos Drawing a loyal crowd to scruffy Kolonos, Taverna Ton Filon is a co-venture from chef Yiannis Mousios and sommelier Giorgos Kontorizos. Charmingly decorated in homage to its 1950s origins, this modern taverna riffs on traditional Greek dishes, paired with good value Greek wines. The menu changes daily, but you can expect plates such as roasted beetroot with walnut skordalia, grilled sardines and some excellent wedges of potato — plus, for dessert, an addictive chocolate mousse laced with salt. In summer, the softly lit courtyard space is one of the loveliest alfresco spots in Athens. instagram.com/tavernatonfilon Oikonomou, Ano Petralona Opposite the much loved Zefyros outdoor cinema in the leafy neighbourhood of Ano Petralona, Oikonomou has been serving up comforting family recipes since 1930. With its chequered tile floor and joyful primrose yellow walls, it is a simple, homely taverna that nourishes stomach and soul. Alongside pitchers of hyma (house wine), order traditional dishes such as fava, rooster with spaghetti and roast lamb, which falls off the bone. On sunnier days, sit at one of its pavement tables under the shade of olive trees. Manari Taverna, Monastiraki A newcomer to the Athenian scene at the end of 2024, Manari has quickly cemented itself as one of the hottest tables in town. From the founder of Birdman and Nolan, it focuses heavily on meat, with a hefty chunk of its menu cooked over fire. Come with a big group and order a pile of the oregano-marinated chicken or mutton paidakia and the melt-in-the-mouth lamb giouvetsi, alongside its cabbage salad and top-notch patates. Make sure to book ahead. manaritaverna.com Epta Martyres, Neos Kosmos Run by a group of friends, this is a low-intervention wine bar with meze dishes inspired by the tsipouradika bars of Volos – where many of the team come from and sister to Loggia in Sifnos. Sit outside with a pét nat and make your way through the chef ’s surprise plates. @eptamartyres.athens Ta Kanaria, Moschato An idyllic option for Sunday lunch, you will be surrounded by Greek families in the sun-dappled courtyard of Ta Kanaria. Run by the Argyropoulos family since the 1950s, this fish taverna has no menu, which only makes it more delightful. Dark olives, thick slices of olive oil-drenched feta and a perfect tomato salad (with grated onion) are served ahead of platters of plump prawns and excellent whole fish such as bream or red mullet sold by the kilo. Pharaoh, Exarchia Don’t let its location on a dodgy street between Exarchia and Omonia put you off. Once inside, Pharoah always delivers on a sexy vibe. The proud owner of a Michelin Bib Gourmand, it combines village-style dishes cooked the old fashioned way (over fire and in wood ovens), an extensive natural wine list from Greece and beyond, and vinyl. Once the kitchen closes, it transforms into a late-night bar, soundtracked by the city’s finest DJs. pharaoh.gr Di Porto, Monastiraki Another Athenian institution, you will find Di Porto down a few stairs in a nondescript basement opposite the Varvakeios fish market. Workers and visitors mingle at this no-menu joint that has been in operation since the late 1800s. Retsina is served in aluminium jugs, bread is plonked straight onto butcher’s paper stretched across its few tables and plates (made with ingredients from the market) include simple things such as chickpeas, meat stews and Greek salad. No-frills authenticity. Black Salami, Exarchia The Black Salami micro-bakery makes the best sandwiches in Athens, with its chewy yet crispy focaccia-style bread. It sells out every day by closing time at 5pm, so get there early to choose the best fillings — including my favourite with mortadella, tomato, feta and pistachios. instagram.com/the_black_salami_microbakery Materia Prima, Pagrati Occupying a gorgeous spot on the edge of Mesolongiou Square in Pagrati, this is the second wine bistro from the Materia Prima team. A changing menu of dishes such as potato cakes, pasta with lemon and wild mushrooms, and short ribs with celeriac are married with an impressive wine list that changes monthly — and runs the gamut from Greek Assyrtikos and Xinomavros to Pinot Noirs from Chile. materiaprima.gr Dexamenes, Kolonaki An all-day spot leading up the pedestrianised street from Dexameni Square, this is a winner for a sunny weekend lunch in elegant Kolonaki. Informal and walk-in only — there is often a queue but it moves quickly — Dexamenes sets up its dark green tables on the pavement and serves up a reasonably priced menu of mezze-style dishes such as dakos salad and fried calamari, with jugs of white or tall glasses of cloudy ouzo. Afterwards, you can climb nearby Lycabettus Hill for a spectacular view of the Acropolis and the wider sprawl of Athens below. Kennedy Vins, Syntagma Self-styled as a ‘sans sulphite listening bar’, Kennedy Vins is one of the best-looking spaces in Athens, and the latest project from photographer and magazine founder Chris Kontos. Small but perfectly formed, the bar has a thoughtful list of wines from small French producers — with a focus on the Alsace region — simple plates of cheese and charcuterie and a high-end sound system for records, which Kontos personally selects each evening. instagram.com/kennedyvins Diporto, Downtown Diporto sits in a nondescript basement opposite the Varvakeios fish market. Workers and visitors mingle at this no-menu joint, in operation since the late 1800s. Retsina is served in aluminium jugs, bread is plonked straight onto butcher’s paper and plates include simple but market-fresh grilled sardines and stews. Kora Bakery, Kolonaki Near the bottom of Lycabettus Hill, Kora is a contemporary Athenian bakery specialising in sourdough and viennoiserie. Stop by for a high quality loaf, a pain au chocolat or one of its famous salted cookies. Look out for its fleeting offerings, including hot cross buns at Easter (a nod to co-founder Ianthi Michalaki’s time in London) or melomakarona (small honey cakes) at Christmas. korabakery.com Tanini Agapi Mou, Exarchia One of the pioneers of Athens’ natural wine scene, Tanini Agapi Mou (which translates as ‘Tanin my love’) has an impressive cellar of 100 all-Greek natural wines — most of which are available by the glass. Its knowledgeable, friendly staff are on hand to guide you through the vast menu (helpful ruler included), which roams from Serifos to Crete to Thessaly. Plus, look out for its regular tasting nights. taniniagapimou.gr Wine is Fine, Monastiraki A hit since it opened in 2023, this Gallo-Greek natural wine bar and restaurant puts a relaxed spin on white-tablecloth drinking and dining. Settle in at one of its pavement tables, and make your way through its low or no-intervention glasses of the day — soaked up with a bowl of its much loved cacio e pepe. Walk-ins only. wineisfine.gr A foodie day trip outside of Athens An hour’s drive from central Athens, just over the Corinth Canal, lies the Peloponnese. Book in for lunch at Kavos 1964, an iconic family-run taverna known for its fish and shellfish dishes. After a quick dip on the tiny beach nearby, order some taramasalata, kalamaraki and horta (wild greens) to start, before sharing a vast platter of spaghetti with clams. After a long lunch, you can visit the ancient theatre in Epidaurus, which is only a short drive away and one of Greece’s most important archaeological sites. More travel guides Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Giorgi Mindiashvili, Georgian restaurateur and owner of soon to open DakaDaka in London, shares what makes the cuisine of his homeland so special
From cheesy khachapuri to hearty stews and unique local wines, Georgia has plenty to offer foodies. Restaurateur Giorgi Mindiashvili shares the things he loves the most about his homeland. Find out where he loves to eat and the best restaurants in Tbilisi here. After you've read our guide below, check out our guides to Turkey and Finland, then discover our Turkish recipes. Georgian food: 10 things we love Khachapuri We have endless varieties of khachapuri, each from a different region. From boat-shaped adjaruli, filled with mixture of imeruli and sulguni cheese, and topped with butter and egg yolk, to round imeruli stuffed with fresh curd cheese, and chakhragina, my personal favourite, filled with chard and salty cheese. Khinkali No Georgian table is complete without khinkali, our famous dumplings. The story goes that they travelled from the east centuries ago, carried by nomadic tribes crossing the Caucasus. Today they’re made in every region, each with its own touch – some with beef and pork, some with lamb, mushrooms or cheese curds. To eat one properly, pick it up by the twisted stalk (we call it the belly button), turn it upside down, take a bite, slurp the hot broth, then eat the rest. It’s a meal and a ritual in one. Spices Tbilisi’s position on the old Silk Road means centuries of spice passed through our kitchens. From Persian saffron to Syrian coriander and Indian flatbreads, everything found a way into Georgian cooking. The backbone of our flavour is khmeli suneli, a golden-green spice blend of blue fenugreek, marigold and coriander. It seasons our stews – kharcho and satsivi – and ties the country’s east and west together in one shared taste. Georgian wine Georgia is where wine was born. Archaeologists have found evidence of winemaking dating back to 8,000 BC. We still use qvevri – large clay vessels buried underground – to ferment and age the wine, allowing it to breathe naturally. It’s not a trend here, it’s ancestry. The soils, often chalky and mineral-rich, give our wines a saline edge. In the east, the region of Kakheti produces structured, powerful wines from grapes like saperavi, rkatsiteli, khikhvi and krakhuna. In the west, Imereti and Samegrelo give lighter, more aromatic expressions – tsitska, tsolikouri, ojaleshi, otskhanuri sapere. We distil the left-over grape must into fiery chacha (our grappa) and we make churchkhela, candle-shaped sweets of walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice. Walnuts – the sacred ingredient Almost every Georgian household has a walnut tree in its garden. We use walnuts in everything: as the base for sauces and spreads, for thickening stews and in countless versions of pkhali – finely ground walnuts mixed with spinach, aubergine or the wild mountain herb ekala. It’s one ingredient that defines the Georgian palate: earthy, nutty, nourishing and beautifully versatile. Supra and sharing-style menus If you really want to understand Georgia, start with a supra. These traditional feasts used to take place outdoors. There would be catfish in coriander-vinegar sauce, crispy suckling pig, whole chicken, tomato and cucumber salads, bundles of herbs, spring onions and radishes, bowls of pkhali – vibrant walnut and vegetable spreads – and still-warm shoti bread fresh from the clay oven. Every supra has a tamada, the toastmaster, who leads the table in toasts – to love, to peace, to the future – often accompanied by polyphonic singing. These days supras are mostly for celebrations and holidays but their spirit lives on in sharing-style dining in Georgian households and restaurants. Festive feasting Before Orthodox Christmas (7 January) many Georgians observe a 40-day plant-based fast. When the fast breaks it’s not just a meal, it’s renewal. Families gather, bringing dishes from their own homes: satsivi (chicken in walnut-garlic sauce), Rachan ham, aubergine pkhali, crispy roast pork and gozinaki, walnut and honey sweets. Candles glow in the window, a special cloth covers the table and the house fills with warmth. Rachan ham In the Racha mountains, people make a cured ham called lori. The pig is slaughtered in October, the hams hung, smoked and left to dry for months in the cold air. In winter, thin slices are added to lobio – a claypot stew of red beans, walnuts and spices – then sealed under a layer of cornbread and slow cooked over fire. The flavour is smoky, nutty and deep, like Georgia’s answer to cassoulet. Shkmeruli Named after the highland village of Shkmeri, this dish is the essence of Georgian comfort food. A spatchcock chicken is pan-fried until crisp, then cooked with garlic in its own juices. In the city people began to whisk the pan juices with a little cream, creating a silky emulsion not unlike a Basque pil pil. Traditionally it’s cooked in cast iron with a heavy stone on top for the perfect crust. Once served it’s drenched in its own hot garlicky sauce – simple, humble, extraordinary. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2024/04/GettyImages-1314856610-85f3a0e.jpg" width="594" height="396" alt="Shkmeruli, is a traditional Georgian dish of chicken in garlic sauce. Both sides of the chicken are fried and then is cooked over low heat for 20–25 minutes in the covered pan. When the chicken is done, it is placed in a plate and a little oil from the pan is added; garlic and nuts are simmered along with water in the remaining oil. After 5 minutes, the chicken is added to this mixture and heated before serving. Almaty, Kazakhstan. (Photo by: Kushamanov Didar/Majority World/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)" title="Shkmeruli, is a traditional Georgian dish of chicken in garlic sauce." /> Hearty stews Comforting stews slow cooking for hours over a stove are a staple in Georgian households. These include kharcho (beef, tomatoes, herbs and ghomi, our version of grits), workers’ favourite ostri (spicy beef with chilli and deep umami), chicken chahhokhbili braised with tomatoes, herbs and fiery ajika paste, and bright spring chakapuli with lamb, tarragon and sour plums. Perhaps the most beloved of all is satsivi, made of cold chicken bathed in thick walnut sauce, finished with saffron oil. 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Celebrate the bold, warming flavours of the Czech Republic with these classic recipes, from hearty dumplings to iconic beer snacks and buttery bakes.
Want to learn about Czech food or looking for Czech recipes? Read Evie Harbury's guide, then check out the guide to Turkish food and Maltese food. Recipes extracted from My Bohemian Kitchen by Evie Harbury (£20, Murdoch Books). Photographs by Ola O Smit. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. Czech cuisine Czech cuisine is bold. Despite being a country not widely known for its gastronomy, boy, does the food speak volumes. It's accidentally seasonal and serendipitously simple. The flavours are similar to those you might be familiar with in German, Austrian and Polish cuisine (by no coincidence, since these are the countries that border it). With paprika, pickles, cabbage, mustard and dill featuring heavily, the rich cooked meats – such as beef, duck and pork – are complemented by perfectly prepared carbs and garden-grown vegetables. Other key flavour-makers that feature on a typical plate of food are caraway seeds, marjoram (both fresh and dried) and mushrooms (often foraged from the forests). As a Bohemian, I firmly believe the best things in life come wrapped in dough. In Czech cuisine, these take the form of hearty, warming dumplings stuffed with smoked meat and served on sauerkraut, or even turned into a sweet treat filled with strawberries, apricots or plums. Not all the array of Czech dumplings are stuffed, though – some are served on the side to soak up the flavourful sauces and accompany meats. Bakes and sweet treats are certainly a highlight of Czech cuisine, often favouring jam, fruit or nutty fillings over chocolate ones – the cakes, biscuits and bakes tend to be simple but purposeful. No fuss and few frills, but melt-in-your-mouth delicious. The linzer cookies featured here are a great example. Like in plenty of places around the world, the food is the language of love, but not in a soppy way – in a "I’m going to prove I love you by showering you (metaphorically) in copious amounts of food that I spent hours of my life growing, nurturing and preparing" kind of way. Importantly, the food is best washed down with slivovice, a Czech plum brandy that is drunk as an aperitif, digestif and everything in between. If someone offers you a taste of their homemade slivovice, made from the plums in their orchard, know that you’ve made a friend for life. Czech recipes Smoked ham stuffed dumplings (Bramborové knedlíky plnené uzeným masem) Satisfying to both make and eat, this recipe has such simple ingredients and yet delivers an interesting and massively filling plate of food. In the Czech Republic, you can buy a large piece of cooked smoked ham in any supermarket or butcher but, as that is not the case everywhere else, I have suggested using pancetta instead. These dumplings are served sprinkled with what I’ve heard described as České zlato {chess-kair zla-toh} – ‘Czech gold’ – a poetic term for golden crispy onions that accurately expresses just how valuable a part of the meal they are, the all-important finishing touch that brings the whole dish together. Marinated cheese (Nakládaný hermelín) This is one of Bohemia’s most iconic beer snacks, found in nearly every pub in the region. It goes hand in hand with Czech beer culture, where pivní chut’ovky (beer snacks) are an essential part of the drinking experience – arguably just as important as the beer itself. This is often made with hermelín, a soft Czech cheese from Sedlcany – 25 miles south of Prague – that is akin to camembert. It’s usually served with a couple of thick slices of freshly baked rye bread and always a large, ice-cold pilsner. A tangy, spiced, creamy snack that takes to beer like a duck to water. You will need a 500ml container or wide jar. Linzer cookies (Linecké cukroví) Two buttery biscuits sandwiched together with a gooey layer of jam: the textures here balance carefully on the line between beautifully crumbly and deliciously melty. As visually appealing as they are tasty, these cookies are an ideal sweet snack. Note that these need to be made the day before you want to eat or serve them, and the dough also needs chilling time. They are perfect to pack into a box to give as a gift, or just to keep on hand for your afternoon cup of tea. You can make mini ones as a part of your Christmas biscuit offering, too.
From romantic markets dotted around a forest-lined lake to family-friendly markets in French towns, here are 9 of the best continental Christmas markets for the festive season
Looking for the best Christmas markets? Want to find the best European food markets? Read on for 9 of the best continental Christmas markets, then discover the best spots for winter sun and our favourite foodie city breaks by train. Brussels, Belgium Head to Brussels for Christmas markets filled with freshly fried frites, warm waffles and chocolatiers galore. Running from 28 November until 1 January 2025, the Christmas markets spread over several squares in the centre of the city with over 200 chalets, a towering Christmas tree, an ice skating rink, curling and a ferris wheel to take in views over the city. Choirs perform on an igloo-shaped stage at weekends and there's a Santas Workshop with children's activities. From 5pm to 10pm every day, a five minute video and light show is projected onto the tower of the City Hall every 30 minutes. This year's theme is 'Winter Wonders'. Chalets serve warming tartiflette, glühwein, thick hot chocolates and waffles – discover the difference between the two waffles styles, Liege and Brussels waffles, by trying both, naturally. brussels.be <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2024/11/Brussels-market-232cb1d.jpg" width="2118" height="1412" alt="Christmas tree in the iconic "Grand Place" (literally "Big Square") in the centre of Brussels. Built mainly between 1696 and 1704 the square has beautiful façades, with a mixture of baroque and Renaissance architecture. During Christmas evening, there's a light festival at dusk, as well as christmas markets." title="Magic Christmas light at Brussels Grand Place Belgium, Europe" /> Vienna, Austria You're spoilt for choice with Christmas markets to explore in Vienna, with festivities springing up in every square and palace gardens across the city and over 20 official markets. The Viennese Dream Christmas Market is the largest, held on the square in front of the city hall, with light installations, plenty of mulled wine and choirs singing carols at the weekends. Visit both the Schönbrunn Palace and Belvedere Palace for smart markets in the palace grounds. Hot punch (mulled wine, but also mulled amaretto, gin or even mulled Aperol) will keep your hands warm. Try langos – fried dough topped with sour cream and grated cheese, and hot kartoffelpuffer – freshly fried crispy potato pancakes. For something sweet, kaiserschmarrn is shredded fluffy pancakes served with plenty of icing sugar. austria.info Lisbon, Portugal Sweet aromas of roast chestnuts fill the air in the Portuguese capital from 11 November (St Martin’s Day). Grab a paper cone and wander the steep, cobbled streets, joining locals in corner kiosks as they shot cherry liqueur (ginja). Rossio Square comes to life in December with wooden huts in its Christmas market, as does the old Campo Pequeno bull ring, that hosts exclusively Portuguese artisans. The technicolour designs of Conserveira de Lisboa’s tinned fish make pretty stocking fillers to take home for loved ones, as do pastéis de nata scented lip balms and hand creams from Lisbon beauty brand Benamôr. visitlisbon.com Krakow, Poland Only a two hour flight from most UK airports, Krakow offers a picture perfect Christmas market experience. The Krakow Christmas market is centred in and around Krakow’s Main Square with over 80 huts, plus a main stage for festive entertainment. Foodies will find mulled beer alongside mulled wine, spiced beetroot soups, hot sausages and tender roasted pork knuckles. Pierogi (Polish dumplings) are a must try, with stalls selling wide varieties of fillings. Bruges, Belgium Bruges brings the fairytale festive charm with medieval buildings, winding streets and boats floating down the canal. Bruges' Christmas markets are known as 'Winter Glow' celebrations and two markets take over the city in December: the Market Square offers traditional Christmas market charm and the Simon Stevin Square is filled with crafts to buy for souvenirs. As well as the markets, there is ice skating, a magical lights trail and decorations throughout the city. The air is filled with the scent of fresh waffles and stopping into tiny chocolatiers for treats to take home is a must. Combine a trip to Bruges with stopping in Brussels for double the Christmas market fun. visitbruges.be Arras, France If you're craving a quick Christmas weekend getaway this December, look no further than the charming historic town of Arras. A mere 2-hour journey from London will transport you from the hustle and bustle of city life to the enchanting Christmas markets with more than 140 stalls nestled across three magnificent Flemish-Baroque-styled squares. These markets, while not the largest in Europe, boast a delightful array of attractions for all ages – from a vintage carousel and ice rink for the kids, to delectable local treats like chicory conserve, honey and craft beers. arraspaysdartois.com Bled, Slovenia A misty Lake Bled and the tiny, church-topped island at its centre form the backdrop to one of Slovenia’s most romantic Christmas markets, the Winter Fairytale, open from 28 Nov-4 January. Walk beside the forest-lined lake, following a route marked by flickering fire torches and watch a team of divers ceremonially recover the lake’s sunken bell on Christmas Day, then hit the market stalls to track down festive gifts, and food and drink typical of Slovenia’s Gorenjska region. Try a golden fried potato snack called pocrt krompir, or a slice of potica – a swirly cake made from paper-thin sweet dough and creamed nuts, rolled as tight as a pinwheel biscuit – but leave room for Bled cream cake, a neat little square made from layers of butter puff pastry, vanilla cream and whipped cream. bled.si Riga, Latvia The air is sweet with roast almonds, mulled wine and glazed gingerbread at Riga’s Old Town Christmas Market, open from 28 November. Way back in 1510, the Latvian capital was one of the first two cities in the world (the other was Tallinn) to display a Christmas tree in the way we do today – the supposed spot, in Cathedral Square, is where the festive market now stands. Little wooden huts sell everything from hand-knitted mittens to carved wooden spoons and piping-hot “grey peas”. Despite the uninspiring name, the latter is actually a delicious combination of sticky-sweet onions, Latvian peas and crispy bacon, fried together until fragrant. You can also eat sausages with sauerkraut and drink hot cocktails made with Riga Black Balsam (a herbal liqueur made from vodka infused by black pepper and valerian). vzt.lv/ Black Forest, Germany Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market takes place, as the name suggests, in a geological chasm beneath a railway viaduct in Germany’s Black Forest. Among its 40 or so snow-capped cabins are those selling everything from cuckoo clocks to cherry-topped Black Forest gâteau, Black Forest-smoked trout and venison, and flammkuchen – a German-style flatbread topped with bacon, onion and cheese. To drink, it's all about a theatrical glass of feuerzangenbowle: mulled wine topped with a square of rum-soaked sugarloaf which is set alight as it’s served. While you shop, frosty blue lights bounce off the Höllentalbahn railway line 40 metres above you, and for a special treat you can hike to the Christmas market via the Löffeltal walk, a 3km trail starting from Hinterzarten village (there are shuttle buses back, if you’re knocked out by all that feuerzangenbowle). hochschwarzwald.de Trento, Italy Split across Piazza Fiera and Piazza Cesare Battisti, Trento’s Christmas market is so dedicated to local produce and sustainability (there’s a ban on plastic bags) that the city has earned itself the reputation of Italy’s Città del Natale. Browse nearly 100 stalls selling regional specialities, including dried orange slices, local sheep’s cheese, grappa and mostarda di rosa canina, a Christmassy condiment made from rosehip berries and winter spices. Go hungry – there are shallow-fried potato pancakes called tortel di patate to try, as well as polenta wedges, panettone and apple strudel (a nod to the city’s previous life as part of the Austro-Hungarian empire). Sit and eat awhile, enjoying (if you’re lucky) views of the snow-dusted Dolomites beyond the city. visittrentino.info Bilbao, Spain Traditional Basque products hog the limelight at Bilbao’s Santo Tomás Fair, held on December 21 every year (officially the first day of Christmas in this part of Spain). Buy homemade cider, cheese, chorizo, honey and ever-so-slightly-sparkling txakoli wine from local farmers, then hit the street-food stalls for corn flour tortillas, txistorra pork sausages and rosquillas – cake-like ring donuts, often dipped in chocolate and dusted in icing sugar. There’s always an exhibition of farm animals and plenty of live music to enjoy, including those from bertsolaris (singers of bertso, a Basque form of musical verse) and txalapartaris (they make rhythmic music using wooden sticks and planks). tourism.euskadi.eus Bologna, Italy The Fiera di Natale is Bologna’s biggest wintertime celebration, running right through until January 7. On New Year’s Eve, amidst the bustle of Piazza Maggiore’s street market, a statue of an old man (or an old woman on leap years) is burnt to symbolise the ousting of the old and beginning anew. Stalls are set out underneath the gaze of San Pietro Cathedral, selling ornate Christmas decorations, handmade nativity scenes, roast nuts, chocolate-dipped orange peel and torrone (citrus-scented nougat, studded with almonds). Plus you’ll discover Bologna’s version of panettone: a dense fruit cake made with brandy, dried figs and cocoa, then brushed with alchermes or saba liqueur (a sort of syrup made by slow-cooking wine in copper cauldrons). bolognawelcome.com Angers, France An illuminated ferris wheel, vintage merry-go-round, ice-skating rink and colourful light show (projected onto Angers Cathedral) makes this French market ideal for families. Even Santa Claus shows up each year, to receive the keys to the city from the Mayor of Angers. Stalls are set out on the Place du Ralliement in front of the Grand Theatre selling food and drink typical of the Loire Valley – pommes d’amour (like toffee apples, but coloured red), nougat, vin chaud, gingerbread houses and warm galettes – while the nearby Maison du Vin offers tastings and sales of 70 local Loire Valley wines until 6:30pm most evenings. Better still, at a corner kiosk, you can get any purchased gift-wrapped in pretty paper. marchedenoelangers.com Torun, Poland Head to the Polish city of Torun if you want to get your Christmas market fix away from the crowds. Warm nippy hands around firepits, drink mulled wine spiked with warm honey, watch old movies in the Market Square and snap a photo with a life-size nutcracker. Food-wise you can indulge in everything from dried sausages to oscypek, a smoked sheep’s milk cheese that’s served warm with cranberry sauce. Whatever you do, don’t miss the peppery gingerbread – Torun has been making it in traditional moulds since the 14th century. Buy beautiful, intricate examples of the craft, or simple heart-shaped gingerbread cookies filled with plum jam. You can even learn how to make your own during the Christmas period, at the Museum of Torun Gingerbread. jarmarktorun.pl/ Tallinn, Estonia Estonia's enchanting Christmas markets in Tallinn beckon as snow blankets the landscape. Dating back to 1441, when the Brotherhood of the Blackheads introduced the first Christmas tree to Tallinn's town square, this tradition continues to captivate. From 21 November - 28 December, Tallinn's medieval Old Town and Tartu host festive markets blending holiday cheer with Estonian charm. Discover over 100 stalls in the UNESCO Old Town, offering hand-knit woollens, crafted woodwork and festive decorations. Indulge in traditional Estonian treats like black pudding and sauerkraut, and savour the magic from 10am to 10pm daily – an unforgettable blend of history, tradition and holiday joy. visitestonia.com/en/tallinn-christmas-market Image credits: Getty Images More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Margate: where locals eat and drink in the Kentish seaside town
Explore this cool coastal Kent town via elegant fish suppers, plump Whitstable rock oysters and scoops of rhubarb and custard gelato
Looking for Margate restaurants? Want to know the locals' favourite fish and chips in this Kentish seaside town? Check out our favourite places to eat and drink in Margate below, then peruse more seaside holidays for food lovers including the best restaurants in Deal and where to eat in Brighton. The best places to eat and drink in Margate Angela’s – for elegant seafood Two small dining rooms separated by a central kitchen, Angela’s is as no-frills as the menu, which prides itself on simplicity and minimal waste (even the tabletops have been fashioned out of recycled plastic bags). Plump Whitstable rock oysters, mussels with cider and garlic, whole roasted plaice and thornback ray with brown butter are just some of the reasons why Angela’s is still in rude health after more than half a century. angelasofmargate.com Forts Café – for vibey brunch This popular spot is always bustling with local creatives catching up over some of the best brunch dishes in town. The focaccia sandwiches are legendary on the Margate food scene, with fillings such as braised brisket with pickled chilli and herby aioli, jerk jackfruit with pineapple and corn slaw, and the epic bacon sarnie. Baristas work wonders with speciality coffee beans roasted by a rotation of the country’s best, from Manchester’s Ancoats to Somerset-based Round Hill Roastery. @fortscoffee Pomus – for Sunday feasting Unassumingly located in Margate’s revamped shopping precinct, Ryan Jacovides’s bistro and wine bar has all the warm, friendly feels of a neighbourhood favourite. Prime spot is perched on a mustard-hued stool at the burnt orange counter, so you can peruse the bottles on the shelves behind and watch head chef Aaron Costen and his team look after the impressive cooking. Pop in for a herbaceous rosemary-infused negroni, house-infused vermouth spritz or glass of floral Kentish sparkling wine, or bed in for the Sunday sharing feast. Things kick off with a selection of snacks such as mackerel rillettes, soy and ginger popcorn chicken with zippy mango and habanero sauce, gobstopper olives and squidgy focaccia (that just so happens to be gluten free, as is the whole menu). Next comes a huge sharing cut (on our visit Tomahawk pork in a rich, buttery beef stock sauce) accompanied by a generous spread of sides – bubbling ramekins of cheesy dauphinoise potatoes, pancetta-flecked sprouts and chilli-laced mangetout. Elegant puddings might be blackberry-topped dark chocolate ganache or tarte tatin with miso ice cream. A third of the cocktails are creative non-alcoholic options such as a refreshing coastal spritz, and there’s also an extensive list of wines chalked up on the blackboard alongside frames of quirky art to liven things up. pomus.co.uk Sargasso – for harbourside lunches The owner of east London’s neighbourhood restaurant, Brawn, also takes pride in this seaside restaurant at Margate’s iconic pier destination, Harbour Arm. Enjoy lobster spaghetti and Catalan salt cod salad with a quintessential view back over the harbour to the Old Town. Ingredients are sourced locally, many grown on musician and restaurant partner Matthew Herbert’s farm 10 miles from the town, with wines from Europe’s boutique vineyards. sargasso.bar Mannings Seafood – for seaside picnics This seafood shack perched on the harbour is a Margate legend. Must-trys include the simple, fresh crab sandwich, and little pots of cockles, whelks and prawns. Let owners Trev and Val make up a platter for you or take a plate of oysters and a bottle of champagne to the beach for the ultimate seaside picnic. @manningsseafoodmargate Oast – for artisan bakes Be it stone-ground heritage wheat flours from Kent’s Nonington Farms or skills honed at Scotland’s Twelve Triangles, baker Will Moss and co-founder Charlotte Keeys have drawn on the best from near and far to create their hit bakery-café. Sourdough breads are forefront but Will’s baguettes, made using a starter and fresh yeast, are prized among Margate’s French community. “Sourdough provides flavour, fresh yeast a light soft crumb,” says Will. There is a distinct Swedish influence in Oast’s knotted buns and sandwiches. The buns are often flavoured with buttery cinnamon or cardamom, then glazed with syrup and pearl sugar. But flavours can broaden to include, for example, chocolate, orange and cardamom, or seasonal fruits and custard. oastmargate.co.uk Peter's Fish Factory – for fish and chips Ask locals where you can get the best fish and chips in Margate, and they’ll point you in the direction of Peter’s Fish Factory, overlooking the seafront. There will be queues, but the salty, crisp and golden chips, waft of malt vinegar and perfectly cooked cod is more than worth the wait. Everything is served in boxes – so you won’t have to negotiate soggy, scorching chip paper on your lap, and you’ll get change from a fiver. facebook.com/petersfishfactorymargate Sète – for French wine bar feels Natalia Ribbe of Ladies of Restaurant fame has curated a cosy wine bar that offers a rare blend of fun vibes and serious wines. The eclectic, revolving wine list puts the spotlight on female winemakers, Eastern European vineyards and Kentish growers. Taking inspiration from French neighbourhood tabacs, sharing snacks include pâté en croute with pickled gherkins, potted smoked prawns and French onion tart, plus superb Oast baguette and butter. In the dining room at the back larger sharing plates such as crispy lamb with grilled radicchio, taramasalata with crushed new potatoes and elegant dover sole meunière are served from a small open kitchen, giving feels of being at a friend's for dinner. There's also a surprisingly large, sun-soaked courtyard at the back where Natalia and team host wine tastings, events and of course lunch walk-ins too. setemargate.com Bottega Caruso – for Italian classics Harry Ryder and his Italian wife Simona met when they worked in London restaurants, but it wasn’t until Harry visited Simona’s family in Campania that he realised the Italian food he had tasted in the UK wasn’t anything like the real thing. “I tried her family’s tomato sauce, the pasta, the cheeses, wines and oil – I’d never tasted anything like it. I joked that we should start bringing it back to the UK, and that’s what we’ve done with Bottega Caruso.” This small Italian kitchen and shop started out as a pop-up stall at The Goods Shed in Canterbury, selling fresh pasta and Simona’s family sauces. Popular dishes on the menu include verdura e fagioli – a slow-cooked stew of greens, organic beans and smoked chilli – and handmade cavatelli pasta with a meaty Neapolitan ragu comprising slow-cooked beef shin, top rib, pork belly, pork rump, fennel sausages, meatballs and Simona’s family tomato sauce. bottegacaruso.com Little Swift – for wines and cocktails Bottle shop, deli and wine bar, this seafront hangout has an eclectic offering. Work your way through personally recommended wines by the glass and pair with a charcuterie board livened up with cucumber pickles from Kentish forager Karly’s Kitchen. When the weather’s playing nice, take a frozen margarita or piña colada to the beach or join local pals catching up on the terrace. @littleswiftct9 The Greedy Cow – for casual lunches For a seriously good sourdough toastie make a beeline to The Greedy Cow. Available from noon onwards (only breakfasts are served in the mornings), we like the chorizo version, laced with fresh orange. Or go for a Gents Burger, made with black pudding, sausage, bacon, cheddar, chutney and beetroot and served with fennel coleslaw. Eat in the upstairs café or ask for your order to go. thegreedycow.co.uk The Two Halves – for craft beer With its prime spot on the seafront this craft beer bar is often busy and might take some time to make your way to the bar here but it’s a great place to try locals brews from breweries such as Canterbury Ales, Gadds and Shepherd Neame. @TheTwoHalvesAle The Old Kent Market – for iconic food market vibes The Old Kent Market is a newly opened food emporium just across the road from the Turner Contemporary (you can’t miss it – it’s painted bright red). Inside you're greeted by a full-size red bus that’s home to a cafe but don't jump on the first foodie offering you see. Venture further inside and you’ll find stalls selling freshly made sushi, pulled pork and takeaway pies plus local breads baked daily on site and locally grown fruit and veg. theoldkentmarket.com Local neighbourhood spotlight: Cliftonville A short walk out of the town centre, this independent, artistic area is bookmarked by Margate’s landmark lido sign and striking Botany Bay, famous for its rock pools and chalk rock formations. Join creatives for brunch at Forts, known for its focaccia bacon sarnies, or go for a proper fry up at The Dalby Café, before browsing the bars, shops and galleries along Cliff Terrace, including stylish fragrance store, Haeckels (which also sells a delicious seaweed tea made from locally foraged seaweed and sold in gorgeous glass jars). A few streets back from the seafront is Northdown Road, home to some of Margate’s friendliest independent food businesses. Mori Mori is a cosy spot for tucking into sushi boxes and ramen, The Grain Grocer has your organic groceries covered, and Oast bakes a fabulous rotation of sourdough and sweet buns. Head back to the seafront to work up an appetite by strolling along the coastal path to Botany Bay or embracing the sea water with some lengths in Walpole Tidal Pool. Back inland from Walpole Bay, you can warm up with coffee and vinyl at Cliffs or make your way through Sète’s eclectic curation of wines and cheeseboards (they also throw a casual BBQ in the garden every Sunday in August). Where to stay in Margate No 42 Guesthouse Margate’s recent reinvention has seen it become a popular destination for food lovers, with the opening of several independent restaurants such as Angela’s, Sète and Sargasso. Now this seaside hotel, part of the small Guesthouse group, also in Bath, York and Brighton, provides another reason to visit the Kent coastal resort – its Pearly Cow restaurant and rooftop terrace providing magnificent views across the channel. Pearly Cow focusses on seafood platters, fish and grills. Whitstable oysters and salt cod tacos make a good sharing starter, salt-aged steaks are prepared in the open kitchen, with whipped bone marrow butter and beef fat chips – this is the kind of easy food, prepared simply, you want to enjoy on the coast. The reasonable wine list includes a decent house cava. Breakfast is similarly classic, with local Brogdale sausages in the full English, alongside a decent eggs royale and organic porridge with honey and pistachio. Make use of the communal pantry for early morning tea, coffee and pastries, or late-night snacks – huge jars of traditional sweet shop treats like lemon sherbets and chocolate bars. Bedrooms are light and sunny, with neutral colours and fabrics, made contemporary with touches such as a record player and choice of vinyl, modern prints and beach-hut-shaped tea and coffee station. Bramley toiletries and power showers are very welcome after a day on the beach. In the lounge bar, Dreamland’s ferris wheel is referenced in its wall decorations, with raffia lightshades and touches of aqua adding beach house vibes. B&B from £170 per night. Check availability on their website. Fort Road Hotel One of Margate’s iconic seafront buildings opposite Turner Contemporary gallery has been restored to its former life as a hotel. Design is at the forefront throughout, with pieces from artists with Kentish ties and vintage Scandinavian furniture (Danish teak mirrors, beech chairs, rosewood tables) giving each room its own unique character. Bold-hued tiles adorn neat bathrooms, kitted out with seaweed-infused products from local spa Haeckels. Local connections extend to the food and drink options, served in the smart, intimate ground-floor restaurant. Choose between Kentish wines from the likes of Simpsons vineyard or a local gin (Greensand Ridge is herbaceous while Dockyard has notes of citrus and spice). Dishes include trout lifted with Hinxden Farm Dairy crème fraîche and skate wing bathing in beurre noisette and brown shrimp. Breakfast is a real treat, with bacon sarnies offering a satisfying crunch courtesy of hot baguettes from Oast Bakery down the road. Small touches take the hospitality to the next level. A brown paper bag of homemade cookies awaits in the room, best enjoyed with a a glass of rosé or sherry-laced hot chocolate on the rooftop while watching the sunset over the rugged coastline. Doubles from £140, check availability at fortroadhotel.com or booking.com The Reading Rooms One of the first boutique-style b&bs to open on the North Kent Coast, and one which has made great use of the fine Georgian buildings that dominate this area. In Hawley Square, just back from the old town but within strolling distance of all the main attractions, its three bedrooms pair ‘rough luxe’ styling (think fabulous beds and designer bathroom fittings but artfully distressed walls) with gloriously high ceilings and beautiful wooden floors. Breakfasts are equally special, ranging from a full English to ciabatta and bacon sandwiches or slices of toast spread with cream cheese, honey and cinnamon. And don’t miss the gourmet hot chocolate. Doubles from £142, check availability at thereadingroomsmargate.co.uk More UK travel guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge
Best Italian hotels for food lovers to visit
From vineyard estates in Tuscany to converted palazzos in Puglia and boutiques in Milan's foodiest neighbourhood, here's our pick of Italian hotels that offer visitors a slice of la dolce vita
Looking for the best Italian hotel to visit? We've found the best Italian hotels for food lovers in Piedmont, Tuscany, Sicily, Puglia and everywhere in between. Whether you're on a budget or looking for luxury, need a city break or a sea views, check out our round-up of the best Italian hotels for something for everyone. For more hotel inspiration, check out our best European hidden gem hotels, or relax in one of the best hotel baths worth travelling for. Next, learn 10 things we love about Puglian cuisine and Tuscan food, plus discover the 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting for a foodie trip. Best Italian hotels for foodies La Guardia, Tuscany Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Giglio, the second largest island in the Tuscan archipelago, is lush with clifftop vineyards, fig trees and pines. The serene and stylish seaside retreat, La Guardia, is perched atop a granite cave along from the pastel-hued harbour. Brushed concrete and original stone columns are softened with driftwood decorations and wispy wicker lanterns that gently flutter in the Mediterranean breeze. Chic neutral tones continue through to the rooms, all kitted out with luxury Sicilian Ortigia toiletries and many boasting balconies and sea views. Book the junior suite to embrace the elements with a bathroom built into the granite and a beachside terrace for watching the waves lap against the rocks. Mediterranean flavours and island cuisine are served in the on-site restaurant – sip on a Venetian Select spritz at aperitivo hour before a candlelit dinner of Sicilian anchovies, palamita fish with marinated courgettes, and tagliolini with lemon butter and bottarga. The 70-strong wine list showcases rare bottles from Italy’s islands – Giglio, Ischia, Salina and beyond. Breakfast includes the likes of prosciutto, omelettes with Tuscan cheese, homemade fig bread and freshly squeezed juices. There are sunset yoga sessions on the terrace, healing zen shiatsu and Ayurvedic treatments, and e-bikes to explore the island’s rugged trails, cliff-face vineyards and restaurants in medieval castles. Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Forestis, Plose Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Masseria La Carrube, Puglia Doubles from £311, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Reached via a winding road through thousand-year-old olive trees, Masseria Le Carrube sits between the Adriatic and the hills above Ostuni – a low, whitewashed building surrounded by lemon trees, bougainvillea and acres of working land. This is Puglia at its most ingredients-led. The restaurant, set in the masseria's former olive mill, is entirely vegetarian and deeply rooted in the region. Chef Massimo Santoro builds his ever-changing menus around what the estate produces: almonds, figs, wild strawberries, wheat, vegetables, herbs and olives. Carrube (carob) grows in the courtyard and appears as flour in fresh pasta and dusted atop tiramisu. The approach is thoughtful, seasonal and proudly waste-free, with anything not used one day repurposed the next. Dishes are both traditional and surprising. A fennel flan arrives with a sharp cheese sauce, fried vegetables are crisp and balanced, a pasta cooked in red wine and finished with turnip top cream and a taralli crumb feels inventive but grounded. A bowl of breads – cazzatedde, focaccia and taralli – is as generous as the cooking itself. Guests can dive deeper with pasta-making classes led by Massimo, wine tastings with sommelier Mario exploring Puglia’s native grapes, and olive oil tastings at a neighbouring estate. These experiences round out Le Carrube’s philosophy: connection to the land and reverence for tradition. The rooms are simple, with vaulted ceilings and stone floors, a mixture of farmhouse antiques and clean lines. Some have sea views, others open onto lemon-filled courtyards. Two pools overlook the olive groves. In late summer, the estate’s white and black figs ripen, and you can be sure they’ll take centre stage when they do. Meals here feel like an honest celebration of Puglia’s landscape – generous, inventive and unmistakably local. Doubles from £311, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com L’Albereta Relais & Châteaux, Lombardy Nestled among the vineyards of Franciacorta, L’Albereta is a secluded escape near the town of Erbusco. Dating to the late 19th century, the villa was home to Giovanni Cavalleri and his wife Anna, a musician whose passion for the arts is reflected in the sculptures, whimsical art pieces and beautifully manicured grounds. Now owned by Vittorio Moretti, L’Albereta is on the same estate as Bellavista winery, which features on the extensive wine lists of its restaurants. The elegant Leonefelice Vista Lago, with a stunning view of Lake Iseo, serves elevated Italian dishes inspired by the area, such as Franciacorta beef with rocket and baked cherry tomatoes. Seasonal specials include fried duck egg with asparagus and caviar and cacio e pepe with Sicilian red prawns and lime. The desserts are equally elegant, such as kiwi sorbet with green apple, local wine and citrus fruit soup. Stanza 54, a cosy lounge, offers lunches and lighter fare, while La Filiale, the informal pizza restaurant from award-winning pizzaiolo Franco Pepe, serves handmade dough with innovative toppings. Rooms are individually decorated, large and bright, with warm tones, marble bathrooms and delicate furnishings. Expect luxe fabrics like damask and satin, artistic touches and, in some, deep hydro-massage tubs – choose a superior room for a balcony overlooking the gardens. A continental breakfast with local produce and breads is included. To make the most of your stay, book a tour of the on-site winery plus a tasting of its sparkling wines, or enjoy a treatment at the peaceful Chenot Espace wellness spa. Superior rooms from £348 per night, check availability at albereta.it or booking.com Villa La Massa, Tuscany Just 15 minutes from Florence's bustling centre, this riverside 16th-century estate welcomes guests with the heady scent of jasmine, lemon trees and roses. Despite its grandeur, Villa La Massa is laid back, calm and homely. The property has 54 unique rooms across six buildings, from the main Villa Nobile mansion to a riverside suite and a beautifully converted farmhouse. For ultimate seclusion, Casa Colonica stands out with authentic Tuscan elements – exposed beams, wooden floors and green marble bathrooms. There are artisan touches throughout, from hand-knotted rugs crafted by an 80-year-old local tapestry master to traditional key charms instead of modern keycards. The hotel’s restaurants celebrate Tuscan heritage and homegrown produce, with the estate's own olive oil accompanying every meal. Il Verrocchio restaurant offers traditional Tuscan dishes with a contemporary twist such as “Florentine” t-bone steak, duck ravioli, and tagliolini with roasted tomatoes, while L’Oliveto Bistrot focuses on more casual dining featuring the likes of fresh salads, carpaccio, and pizzas. Don't miss the rosemary-studded focaccia or the pici pasta, a hand-rolled specialty. Breakfast unfolds as a celebration of regional delicacies such as focaccia, coconut and cinnamon paradise cake, freshly squeezed orange juice and tables positioned to capture the morning sun dancing across the river's surface. Unwind in the spa with sauna, steam room and tailored massage treatments or participate in hands-on pizza-making classes and cocktail workshops. Villa La Massa invites you to fully lean into rural Tuscan life, while boasting easy access to Florence’s Renaissance treasures and thriving hospitality scene. Check availability at villalamassa.com or booking.com Hotel Su Gologone, Sardinia Doubles from £285, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Winding into the Barbagia mountains you'll find the Hotel Su Gologone. Just a two-hour drive from the Costa Smeralda this is more bandit than paparazzi territory – probably one of the reasons Madonna hid out here, although she could have been swayed by the hotel’s gob-smacking beauty, hippy-chic vibe and gourmet credentials. Food is at the heart of Su Gologone, which started life as a restaurant in the 1960s. Today, it might be a chic, art-themed hotel – a pretty huddle of whitewashed buildings laced with vivid purple bougainvillea and bedded into the mountainside – but it’s still famous for its food. Giovanna’s vibrant artworks pepper the bedrooms’ walls while the corridors are hung with traditional embroidered skirts and shawls. Secret alcoves are dotted around the gardens, there’s an open-air cinema and pool, a small spa, rooftop lounging areas for stargazing and a fabulous bar– whitewashed, open-air, scattered with white cushions and teetering above the valley. Sip a frothy bellini here, as the sun sinks, soaking up the Ibiza vibe and jaw-dropping views. Doubles from £285, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Fink, South Tyrol Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Nestled in the arcades of one of Brixen’s oldest monastery townhouses, this boutique hotel has been passed down through four generations. Husband-and-wife owners Petra and Florian Fink have a deep respect for the 1450s building, creating an intentionally minimalist feel to allow original features to shine in the nine suites – thick stone walls left bare, restored ceiling frescoes decorating cosy window seats and the terrazzo flooring flecked with South Tyrolean stone. A compact vaulted spa awaits behind an ancient wooden door, its central stone plunge pool ideal for cooling down after sessions in the sauna, steam room and Roman bath outhouse. Choose to dine in the chic vaulted restaurant or outside beneath the arcade’s graceful curves. Florian curates produce from 50 local farmers – most specialising in a single ingredient – for his fresh, simple, zero-waste monastery kitchen style. The main menu is vegetarian and includes clever alternatives, such as root veg tartare, tagliolini with red cabbage cream and black truffle, and organic grain ravioli filled with chanterelles and mountain cheese. Meat and fish options are succinct and include local game and freshwater fish, from lake trout fillet to venison stew with beetroot dumplings, and veal schnitzel with lingonberry sauce. Sweet plum dumplings come with black beer ice cream, while three South Tyrolean apple varieties are showcased in a tartlet with ricotta and caramel sauce. An elegant breakfast kicks off with a soothing herb broth followed by fresh juices and fruit salads, crudités to dunk into herb ricotta and compotes to spread over warm croissants and breads, plus made-to-order spelt pancakes and crisp buckwheat waffles. fink1896.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Il Borro Estate, Tuscany Doubles from £455, check availability at booking.com Il Borro is a true working 800-hectare estate, where guests visiting in autumn can take part in the wine harvest and feast alongside the workers and owners (the glamorous Ferragamo family). The hotel itself is set in the remains of a medieval village in the centre of the estate in Valdarno valley, a wilder, more rustic corner of Tuscany. The unique terroir of the estate, with its varying rocky, sandy and clay soils, makes perfect growing conditions for Syrah to make Pian di Nova, San Giovese to make Polissena and Merlot to make the Il Borro signature blend. This unique climate and soil isn’t solely reserved for wine - 700 olive trees provide oil, fields of buckwheat are a playground for honeybees, plus more fields of organic tomato vines, courgettes, pumpkins, green beans and melons provide the hotel’s three-floored Osteria and Tuscan bistro (and chef Andrea Campani) with the ultimate kitchen garden. The buffet breakfast is also exceptional – so abundant that sweet and savoury options are housed in separate rooms. Stay in one of the hotel double rooms or, for more of a countryside experience, the hotel has several ‘farmhouses’ available as guest suites – albeit farmhouses that come with infinity pools, vine-covered terraces and dining rooms where you can whip up your own meals. Don't miss out on a few laps in the infinity pool too. Doubles from £455, check availability at booking.com Nordelaia, Piedmont Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Nordelaia is all about equilibrium: between tradition and modernity; simplicity and indulgence; the boundlessness of nature and the cosy, uplifting comfort of home. It lies within a hilly swathe of rural Piedmont – a region which itself represents a kind of geographical middle ground, suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800-year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are at once contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, while freestanding baths in the bedroom areas add a dose of opulence. On the first floor, the four rooms are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes by which Nordelaia, from its woody hillside perch, is engulfed: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn, and pearly whites in the winter. Two outdoor pools – one heated, one not, but both with views for miles – entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its warm stone floors, barrel-vaulted brick ceiling and stone arches, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Beyond the walls, Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here chef Charles Pearce pays stunning homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and to the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. The two coalesce inventively in his take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta that Charles instead pairs with barbecue-kissed prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a lip-smacking tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms, served with a deeply savoury anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Palazzo Margherita, Basilicata Doubles from £856, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The ethos behind Palazzo Margherita is that it should be a home away from home (albeit a pretty palatial one, bearing in mind that this was originally home to a Hollywood film director), with friendly staff and an open attitude to eating: guests can eat anywhere, anytime, choosing a location within the property that suits their particular mood. Enjoy breakfast in the courtyard, coffees by the walled pool, pizza and pasta at communal tables at the eat-in kitchen and drinks in the cocktail bar. Should you venture away from the hotel, the tranquil local beach has a scattering of sunbeds and parasols reserved for Palazzo Margherita guests. Pick one and look out at the Ionian Sea while you feast on a picnic made up by the cooks at the hotel (they normally add in a delicious seafood spaghetti made with the catch of the day from a local fisherman). Doubles from £856, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Susafa, Sicily Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk It’s a family affair at Susafa, a sprawling estate that has been owned by members of the Saeli-Rizzuto family for five generations - brothers Manfredi and Tommaso are now at the helm. The fortified, 19th-century farmhouse at its heart sits at the foot the Madonie mountains, near Polizzi Generosa, and is the focal point for overnight guests. Around the farmhouse are 18 simple but chic guest rooms. Between terracotta floors and exposed beams are restful ricotta-coloured walls and the odd pop of olive green or tomato red from a headboard or throw. A restaurant is housed in the old granary and flavours here take their inspiration from the traditional Sicilian table. Vegetables, herbs, fruit and organic olive oil all come straight from the farm and the menu is elegantly rustic (think tomato salads, caponata and creamy risottos). Join a cookery lesson if you can drag yourself away from the pool. Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Castello di Casole, Tuscany Doubles from £667, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Roughly half way between Florence and Siena, and surrounded by 4,200 acres of quintessential rolling, forested hills and golden fields, Castello di Casole is a magnificent Italian country estate. At its centre is an imposing, ochre-coloured castle flanked by gardens of lavender, gravel-edged lawns, roses and olive trees. Castello di Casole is pitched at travellers in search of an unblemished version of la dolce vita, one with all the luxurious perks you could imagine. It has 41 rooms and suites within the castle and the hamlet that surrounds it, and another 28 villas and farmhouses (rentable by the week) scattered throughout the estate. Décor is tastefully restrained, with sage and burnt umber paintwork, beamed ceilings, antique furniture sourced from local markets, traditional cotto floors and Carrara marble bathrooms. As with any self-respecting Tuscan estate, this one comes with its own vineyard and olive groves but the real showstopper is the hotel’s infinity pool with its mesmerising views over the undulating landscape. As dusk falls, most guests gravitate to the terrace above the pool, aperitivo in hand, to watch the spectacular sight of the sun sinking behind the hills. As well as the Pazzia Restaurant, which serves traditional Italian dishes and homemade gelato as well as Alessandro’s expert pizzas, there is a more formal restaurant, Tosca, overseen by chef Daniele Sera. Despite the stiff linen and impeccable service here, it still feels relaxed. A standout of the four-course tasting menu was the delicate spinach and ricotta gnudi with tomato confit and light-as-air mozzarella foam. There are more gastronomic experiences available too – from truffle hunting and mushroom foraging to pasta making and wine or olive oil tasting. Doubles from £667, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Borgo Egnazia, Puglia Doubles from £469, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Borgo Egnazia, or ‘village Egnazia’, is quite literally that: an Apulian-inspired network of little streets and piazzas that lead to villas, restaurants, swimming pools, spas, gardens and golf courses. It’s a self-contained bubble of luxury, beautifully designed around the colours white and cream, that’s built entirely from tactile tuff stone. Despite its size, the entire complex exudes a zen-like atmosphere that we found very difficult to leave. You can choose from four types of hotel room, five apartments or six villas – all luxurious, and all within easy reach of a swimming pool. Food is a priority, with six restaurants on site that honour Puglian cuisine – timeless, simple, thrifty food. From grilled octopus at the sophisticated Due Camini, where vaulted white ceilings twinkle with illuminated glass bottles, to a relaxed buffet at La Fresca, rustic orecchiette or pizza at Mia Cucina and fresh seafood at beachside restaurant Pescheria da Vito, it’s easy to stay within the Borgo walls all week. Doubles from £469, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Il Borgo del Balsamico, Emilia Romagna Doubles from £148, check availability at booking.com Modena is synonymous with one of Italy’s most celebrated ingredients: intensely flavoured balsamic vinegar made from fermented grape must. The area around the city of Reggio Emilia is a hub for the vinegar’s production, and also happens to be where you will find Il Borgo del Balsamico. At this historic guest house, in Botteghe Albinea, sisters Cristina and Silvia Crotti produce DOP and IGP vinegars. It’s a lovely setting – an 18th century villa and farmhouse surrounded by wisteria-draped gardens, abundant with damask roses and fruit trees. You can visit the tasting rooms as a day tripper but we recommend booking to stay over in one of the property’s three, refined guestrooms (plus one apartment); think parquet floors, Venetian plasterwork and carefully chosen antiques. There’s a small pool in the gardens too. Doubles from £148, check availability at booking.com Locanda al Colle, Tuscany Doubles from £252, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Calling Locanda al Colle a bed and breakfast is a bit of an understatement. This 12-room guesthouse has many of the perks of a five-star hotel with its antiques and art, saltwater pool and immaculate gardens. Adding to the exclusive feel is its tranquil location, on a pine and olive tree-dotted hill outside Camaiore (also easily reached from seaside resorts like Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi and the pretty town of Pietrasanta). The overall vibe is informal but impeccable, and the same could be said of the food, with everything freshly made each day, from the sourdough bread and granola at breakfast to the cakes for afternoon tea. Resident chef Gianluca also conducts cookery lessons in the kitchen and, twice a week (on Wednesdays and Saturdays) hosts sociable dinners serving homemade ravioli and more on the candlelit terrace (on Monday evenings simple suppers of Tuscan soup and bruschetta are also available). Doubles from £252, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Planeta Wine Estate, Sicily Doubles from £225, check availability at booking.com Unsurprisingly it’s all about wine at the Planeta Wine Estate, just outside Menfi in south-western Sicily. As one of Sicily’s most well established and highly regarded wine producers, Planeta has five different territories dotted around the island but Menfi is where it all began, back in the 16th century. At nearby La Forestiera (part of the estate) there are 14 guestrooms set amid regimented vines, plus a restaurant whose menu is informed by its surroundings - the herbs of the countryside and seafood from the nearby coast. Sip a glass of Nero d’Avola on the pool terrace or visit one of Planeta’s wineries for an in-depth tasting. As well as the pool, in the warmer months guests have access to the Lido Fiori on the beach at Porto Palo di Menfi, 10 minutes’ drive away. Planeta also has vast olive groves at Capparriva producing DOP Val di Mazzara oils; guests can sign up for a tasting and learn about harvesting and pressing. Doubles from £225, check availability at booking.com La Locanda Delle Donne Monache, Basilicata Doubles from £98, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Slightly less well-trammelled by British visitors than other corners of the country, Basilicata is sandwiched between Campania (to the north) and Calabria (to the south). Its rumpled Tyrrhenian Sea coastline is short but sweet at just 30km long, with mountains rising abruptly from the sea. Maratea, its principal town, is a charming cluster of buildings dotted with twisting alleyways and over 40 churches. Also in town, La Locanda delle Donne Monache is a former 18th-century convent, now a smart hotel, with a pool and views over the countryside to the sea. The hotel’s Il Sacella restaurant embraces the flavours of the province – chillies and pork are popular regional staples – and the menu features local sausages from Maratea, homemade pasta with mussels, shrimp and cuttlefish and baked sea bream washed down by Basilicata’s signature wine, the red Aglianco del Vulture. Doubles from £98, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Domu Antiga, Sardinia Doubles from £182, check availability at booking.com A 19th-century farmhouse in the rural heartland of Sardinia, Domu Antiga is in the village of Gergei, surrounded by empty plains and olive groves roamed by more sheep than people. The sensitively restored building is now home to four airy guestrooms whose owners are passionate about local traditions. Guests can jump on a cute Piaggio Ape van and tour the Unesco World Heritage-listed archaeological site of Su Nuraxi at Barumini. Alternatively, join chef Maria Grazia’s bread and cheese-making classes or try your hand at making local pasta shapes, like the island’s unique malloreddus gnocchi. Maria also oversees the guesthouse’s lavish breakfasts, and cooks dinner on request (expect grilled vegetables, local ravioli and Sardinian cheeses). There’s also a pizzeria and a winery close by. Doubles from £182, check availability at booking.com San Luis, Avelengo Check rates and availability at sanluis-hotel.com San Luis is where to go to get away from it all, breathe deeply and just immerse yourself in the tranquility, interrupted only by birdsong and cow bells chiming out through the surrounding valleys. Bedrooms are spread across a scattering of chalets and treehouses around a small, glacier mint-clear lake. Many of the rooms have their own hot tubs and saunas and all of them have small kitchens and dining areas. The showstopper is the double-height spa area in the main clubhouse with its blazing fires, black linen loungers to sink into, huge windows gazing out over the treetops and an inside/outside swimming pool – swim out, race down the pontoon and jump into the hot tub (or, in summer, plunge into the chilly waters of the lake). For foodies, the buzzy, ground floor dining room looks out over the lake and purrs with efficiency. The menu comes in two guises; a traditional one, which draws on the region’s Austro/Italian gastro-heritage, and a more modern, Mediterranean-inspired alternative dreamt up by executive chef, Arturo Spicocchi (five courses, but you can pick and choose how much you want to eat and half portions are available). Lunchtime means soup, salad and cheese, and teatime heralds cakes as well as home-made ice cream. Check rates and availability at sanluis-hotel.com Don Totu Dimora Storica, Puglia Doubles from £295, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com A stylish boutique hotel in the heart of rustic Puglia, Don Totu Dimora Storica is an 18th century palazzo boasting some of the most secluded grounds and best value rooms in the region. In the rural town of San Cassiano large wooden doors along an unassuming backstreet open into a mini palazzo, gracefully decorated in muted tones. Squishy armchairs and books and board games are on hand to keep visitors occupied. Or, help yourself to snacks from the kitchen (homemade biscuits, juices, cakes and nuts) and pad out through a higgledy-piggledy courtyard to find stone staircases leading to secluded terraces. Scented white rose petals drift down from a pergola that leads to a pool and gardens, jazz trickles from speakers and tiny lizards dart from one cacti-filled pot to another. The six bedrooms at Don Totu each have an individual feel. The owners make the most of the building’s quirks (vaulted stone ceilings, quiet alcoves, narrow staircases leading to terracotta terraces…) and have gathered a collection of furniture from across the region to add contemporary touches. There’s no restaurant at the hotel but order before 10.30 and you can enjoy lunchtime sandwiches and salads made with the region’s fantastic produce. The hotel’s small team of staff provides complimentary snacks to break up your day, anywhere in the grounds, from afternoon tea to aperitivo. Doubles from £295, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Palazzo Seneca, Norcia Doubles from £217, check availability at booking.com The foodie town of Norcia is set in the densely tree-covered Sibillini Mountains in Umbria. Enter through one of seven gates in the town’s heart-shaped, ancient walls and you soon discover a network of paved streets rich with foodie delights – café and restaurant tables spilling onto pavements and traditional food shops, Norcinerias, packed with prosciutto, cheeses, spelt and truffles. Relais & Chateaux's Palazzo Seneca is an elegantly restored sixteenth-century building hidden in one of Norcia’s narrow streets. Original stone flooring, open fires and squishy chairs await in the reception rooms, while delicate wrought iron frames, twisted wooden columns and wooden bedheads have been crafted so no two of the 24 rooms are the same. Pad down to the hotel's candlelit barrel-vaulted spa in the basement, complete with jacuzzi, sauna and Turkish bath. For breakfast, a serve-yourself spread is laid out on enormous wooden surfaces, with an entire table dedicated to charcuterie and local cheese. The hotel’s Michelin-starred Vespia restaurant is where the modern and innovative approach really comes into play, with little stacks of 24hr-cooked suckling pig and crisp buttery potatoes with splashes of colourful root veg purée, Norcia sausage ravioli and Breton chicken two ways. Doubles from £217, check availability at booking.com Find out more about our trip around Norcia here Langhe Country House, Piedmont Doubles from £209 per night, check availability at booking.com An imposing 18th-century farmstead near Alba, in Piedmont, Langhe Country House is surrounded by vineyards and hazelnut orchards, and has been beautifully renovated by owners Alessandro and Nadia (a Slow Food member and trained sommelier). The only meal served here is breakfast but it seriously impresses: hazelnut cakes and tarts, biscuits (baci, brutti ma buoni), croissants, jams, seasonal fruit, cheeses from Alta Langa, sliced hams – all homemade or local. Cooking classes for Piedmontese recipes can be arranged, and guests can help themselves to a glass of wine from the poolside wine fridge before going out for dinner in the local village. Doubles from £209 per night, check availability at booking.com Castello Banfi Il Borgo, Tuscany Doubles from £762, check availability at booking.com Set on Montalcino’s largest wine estate, by a medieval castle, Castello Banfi Il Borgo is a glamorous Italian hotel shaped from a hamlet of former estate workers’ houses. Romantic, traditionally styled suites - with terracotta floors, antique furnishings and linen-canopied beds – and classical Tuscan cooking (courses are also available) make it popular with honeymooners but it’s the estate’s Brunello that draws in visiting gourmands; in the on-site enoteca/ wine bar local sheep’s cheese and prosciutto can be paired to the estate’s wines. Doubles from £762, check availability at booking.com Hotel Schgaguler, Dolomites Doubles from £318, check availability at booking.com Pale wood and light hues dominate at Hotel Schgaguler, a central Castelrotto hotel surrounded by the Italian Dolomiti Superski region and all its endless ski runs. The food here is lighter than the hearty mountain fare of the surrounding mountains, with an Alpine-meets-Med twist. But the approach to ingredients remains as hyper-local as possible, making the most of what’s on the hotel’s doorstep. Eat light-as-a-feather gnocchi sprinkled with Alpine herbs, and drink milk supplied direct from local farms. The wine list is cherry-picked from Tyrolean producers further down the valley near Bolzano, and there’s a selection of grappa from neighbouring distilleries. Doubles from £318, check availability at booking.com The Marriott, Venice Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, marriott.com or expedia.co.uk Venice has long been known for its iconic Italian landmarks and traditionally rich culture. And cooking is an intrinsic part of that culture. At the Marriott, Federico Belluco, one of Italy’s youngest Michelin starred chefs, demonstrates why, making the most of the island’s kitchen garden of herbs, edible flowers and vegetables in dishes such as silky tortellini or comforting seafood stew, all drizzled in Isola delle Rose olive oil, the only olive oil produced within the city's boundaries. The resort's luxurious bedrooms and suites are modern and minimalist. Particularly impressive are the Residenza suites, which come with private pools with views of Venice. Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, marriott.com or expedia.co.uk La Favia, Milan Doubles from €125 including breakfast, check availability at lafavia4rooms.com< The four-bedroom La Favia guesthouse, an urban hideaway tucked inside a refurbished 19th-century building, takes its inspiration from owners Fabio and Marco’s travels: no two rooms are the same. On sunny mornings, start the day with breakfast in the rooftop garden – eggs cooked to order, pastries, cakes, bread, homemade jams, fruit and juice squeezed from oranges grown in the owners’ own citrus grove. Doubles from €125 including breakfast, check availability at lafavia4rooms.com Masseria Montenapoleone, Puglia Doubles from £212, check availability at booking.com In time-honoured Pugliese farming tradition, breakfast is the most important meal of the day and, at Masseria Montenapoleone - a stylish farmhouse hotel - it is served in the atmospheric surroundings of the Old Stables. Freshly picked fruits from the farm, dried fig tarts straight from the oven, citrus carpaccio with cinnamon, local cheese and cured meats are just some of the treats on offer for the first meal of the day. The warm sandstone farmhouse, which dates from the 1600s, has 16 guestrooms and is surrounded by a plane of silvery olive and almond trees. Just outside Fasano, on the Salento coast, it is very much a working farm, dedicated to organic produce. Guests are encouraged to pick their own fruit and vegetables and to go behind the scenes to learn more about Puglian cuisine. Doubles from £212, check availability at booking.com Antica Fattoria La Parrina, Tuscany Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com The Maremma is a corner of Tuscany where you can still find countryside roamed by traditional cowboys called “butteri” and Antica Fattoria La Parrina is the perfect stop for a window into rural life down on the Tuscan farm. As well as making well-regarded wines and grappa, the farm also produces cheese, honey, olive oil, fruit, vegetables, pasta, flour and meat – there’s an on-site shop that would put many a farmer’s market to shame. Overnight guests (it also doubles as an agriturismo) can also enjoy the farm’s bounty on the breakfast table, as well as at lunch and dinner; everything is made onsite. Guests can picnic in the grounds, enjoy wine tastings, join a Tuscan cookery lesson or even go boar hunting on the estate. The property’s 12 bedrooms, housed in the solid farmhouse at the centre of the estate, channel rustic charm rather than country chic and there’s a pool, gardens and the beach resorts of the Tyrrhenian Sea a short drive away. Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com Hotel Emilia, Le Marche Doubles from £67, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk With rolling hills, ancient towns and beaches lapped by the limpid waters of the Adriatic, Le Marche’s under-the-radar charms are many. Hotel Emilia commands a haughty spot on the Cornero Riviera, a slice of dreamy coastline south of Ancona mostly given over to a national park. In addition to its 30 guests rooms, there’s a pool, an artsy vibe, a restaurant focusing on local dishes and fabulous sunsets. While you’re there, take the serpentine road down to Portonovo, however. At night the loungers are tidied away and tables are set up on the beach. Seafood is the order of the day, namely the acclaimed wild mussels found in the bay, some of the sweetest you’ll ever taste and harvested in the traditional way. Served in a number of guises; sautéed with lemon, served with spaghetti or with "paccheri" and fennel as is the case at Da Giachetti (ristorantedagiachetti.it). Il Laghetto (illaghetto.com) and Da Emilia (daemilia) are two more to try. Doubles from £67, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best European mountain escapes to visit in 2025
Discover the best European mountain escapes to visit in 2025, from a relaxing treetop retreat in the Dolomites, to an ancient spa nestled in the Troodos mountains in Cyprus
Whether you're after a restorative getaway or want to go hiking surrounded by beautiful scenery, a holiday in the mountains offers the ultimate escape. Breathe in fresh mountain air, spot unique wildlife and soak up the views, surrounded by nature. From architectural hideouts in the Italian Dolomites and the forests of the Bavarian Alps, to an ecotourism getaway in Cyprus, Europe offers a wealth of luxury mountain escapes to visit – discover our picks below of the best mountain hotels that foodies will love. Looking for more travel inspiration? Read our guides to the best saunas to visit in the UK, the best Italian hotels for food lovers and 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting. Best European mountain escapes 2025 Forestis, Dolomites, Italy Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it My Arbor, South Tyrol, Italy Rooms from £206 per night based on two people sharing a Nest Suite; check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or My Arbor Expect to be whisked high above the clouds at this architectural hideout in the Dolomites. Conveniently situated just 50 minutes from Bolzano airport, My Arbor stands proud on stilts against the snow-capped South Tyrolean mountains, making this the perfect spot to experience treetop seclusion. Guests are greeted with the signature cocktail, The Arborene, with its warming blend of sweet vermouth and homemade orange-cinnamon liqueur, best enjoyed on the sun-kissed patio. The hotel has more than 100 south-facing suites, each adorned with reclaimed wood from sunburnt larches and firs from the Eisack Valley. Features include large panoramic windows, a private terrace and a cosy nook for hunkering down with a book. With most of the produce for the restaurant sourced directly from Lake Garda and harvested by owner Markus Huber, sustainability is more than just a concept here. The tasting menu changes daily and is often centred around a theme (think ‘essence of water’ or ‘nature’s delight’). Expect bold flavours, from swordfish tagliata with saffron risotto to onsen eggs with potato truffle espuma. The breakfast buffet is an assortment of local treats, including a juice bar for turmeric and ginger shots, eggs as you like them and homemade breads such as South Tyrolean schüttelbrot – a crunchy flatbread peppered with fragrant spices. Make sure you carve out time to experience an invigorating sauna infusion where the sauna master uses balls of snow enriched with essential oils to control the heat and deepen relaxation. Schloss Elmau, Bavarian Alps, Germany Rooms from £580 per night based on two people sharing; check availability at booking.com or Schloss Elmau Set against the backdrop of the Wetterstein mountains and framed by an abundant pine forest and the icy blue Ferchenbach river, it’s hard not to lose yourself in the scenery and facilities at Schloss Elmau. While staying here, guests can enjoy access to six spas, eight restaurants, a concert hall and two hotels (The Retreat and The Hideaway). The lofty presidential suites at The Retreat are softened with plush furnishings, with an Indian elephant motif woven into the textiles, and are designed to show off panoramic mountain views – take your pick between a luxurious free-standing bath or regal chaise longue to soak up the snowscapes. Restaurant Tutto Mondo offers twists on comforting Alpine cuisine, including homemade tagliolini blanketed in Piedmont truffles. At the neighbouring pan-Asian restaurant Fidelio, expect succulent meats grilled over binchōtan charcoal and paired with foamed nori butter. For those wanting a touch more luxury, opt for the two Michelin starred Ikigai. Breakfast is equally bountiful, with a selection of smoothies and health shots, creamy bircher muesli and homemade breads – including the well-loved German pumpernickel that’s ready to be topped with honey from Schloss Elmau’s bees. Start the day with a soothing golden milk – a silky, fragrant hot drink infused with turmeric, cinnamon and maple syrup. As well as its next-level food and drink options, Schloss Elmau boasts a programme of activities for guests, including yoga, qigong, curling, concerts and cross-country skiing. Ideal for switching off and hunkering down. Nordelaia, Piedmont, Italy Rooms from £261 per night; check availability at Mr & Mrs Smith, booking.com or Nordelaia This stunning property lies in rural Piedmont, a region suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800- year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are both contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, complete with freestanding baths for an extra dose of opulence. The four rooms on the first floor are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes that surround the property: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn and pearly whites in winter. Two outdoor pools (one heated, one not, but both with views for miles) entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its stone floors and arches, and barrel-vaulted brick ceiling, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here, chef Charles Pearce pays homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. His take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta – is instead paired with grilled prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms served with a deeply savoury, anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Priesteregg, Leogang, Austria Berg chalet from £280 per person per night based on two people sharing, including breakfast and spa access; check availability at Priesteregg Surrounded by the snow-dusted Alps, this collection of 15 wooden chalets is reminiscent of a mountain village. Sitting at a height of 1,100 metres there are panoramic views with fresh Alpine air and the aroma of woodsmoke to greet you on arrival. The focus is on traditional local food using highquality ingredients – bread is freshly baked in a stone oven, bacon is smoked in a smoking chamber and the local cows provide the creamiest milk and butter. Each chalet is generously stocked with local treats and every morning guests are delivered breakfast bundles of cured meats, salmon, cheeses, fresh fruits and baked goods. In the evening you can request to dine in your chalet or bundle up and walk to Huwi’s Alm, the on-site restaurant. The signature dish is an event in itself, served on an iron hat that’s heated by small burners. Diners are given a selection of marinated organic steaks and pork loin to cook, with the brim of the hat filled with a rich beef and vegetable soup that gets more intense as the cooking continues. It’s served with crisp baked potatoes, salad and a selection of sauces. Chalets are a combination of beautiful natural materials and modern luxuries. Glass-fronted bedrooms, mountain views, freestanding outdoor baths, suspended fireplaces, private saunas and snow-clad rooftop hot tubs are just some of the unique features. Sheepskin rugs, cosy sofas and the softest bedding make it hard to leave the comfort of your chalet, despite the ski slopes across the valley being in sight of the sun decks. Wellness is taken very seriously here, too – guests can swim in the heated infinity pool next to an open fireplace, relax in Swiss pine saunas or take an invigorating guided dip in the unheated outdoor nature pool. The expansive open-air terrace has luxurious loungers, pillows and blankets to make the most of the winter sun. Casale Panayiotis, Cyprus From £286 based on a two-night stay for two adults in a comfort studio; check availability at booking.com, Hilton or Casale Panayiotis Nestled in the heart of the Troodos Mountains, the climate is noticeably cooler at Casale Panayiotis than down by the Cyprus coast. An agrotourism project saved Kalopanayiotis village from extinction nearly 13 years ago, restoring the historical buildings to their former glory in the form of 29 beautiful rooms and stone cottage suites. The award-winning spa complete with hydrotherapy pool, sauna, herbal steam room and private outdoor whirlpool harks back to the village’s ancient spa origins. Restaurants celebrate local ingredients, including seasonal fruit and veg from the on-site orchards. Byzantino Restaurant spotlights traditional Cypriot dishes, while Pantheon offers casual dining among magnificent mountain views. Grill restaurant Loutraki serves pan-seared, locally sourced trout, premium fillet steak and chicken breast ballotine. Local cultural, culinary and sporting activities are available to be booked for those seeking adventure and new experiences. 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South Tyrol's cuisine: 10 things we love
Local chefs Roland Lamprecht and Florian Fink share what makes the cuisine of this Austro-Italian alpine region (also known as Alto Adige) unique
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of this northern region of Italy so special from local chefs Roland Lamprecht and Florian Fink. From festive traditions to local pasta dishes and excellent wines, there is plenty for foodies to enjoy. Plus, we share some of the top places to eat in the region and our picks of the best places to stay. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, the Algarve in Portugal, Cork in Ireland or Istria in Croatia. Jump to: Where to eat and drink in South Tyrol Where to stay in South Tyrol South Tyrol cuisine: 10 things we love Austro-Italian culture The region’s difficult recent history is now embraced in a fusion of Austrian and Italian cuisines and culture. Historically the South Tyrolean kitchen is German-Austrian, featuring the likes of dumplings, veal schnitzel and kaiserschmarrn, but the Italians have added elegance, plus fish, vegetables, olive oil and salt. The two cultures – along with the Mediterranean and mountain climates – are now very much intertwined, to the extent that all towns have both an Austrian and Italian name. Speck While many cured meats are popular in South Tyrol, speck is the most popular (previously smoked venison). This air-dried, cold-smoked ham is lightly spiced and encased in a juniper crust. PGI-protected farmhouse bauernspeck is made only with the highest-quality meat and has a higher ratio of nutty marbled fat that melts on the tongue. Its red and white colour reflects the Tyrolean flag, and it’s a signature ingredient in countless dishes. Törggelen Celebrated following the grape harvest in late September or early October, and running through the end of November, Törggelen, the region’s ‘fifth season’, is a culinary trademark. It’s a time when Alpine huts and farmhouses throw open their doors for tastings of freshly pressed wine (grape must), alongside roasted chestnuts, large feasts (featuring schlachtplatte meat plates), folk tales and merriment. Knödel dumplings There are more than 20 types of regional dough dumplings, from rustic buckwheat to those flecked with spinach and herbs, and even sweet varieties made with apricot or plum. It’s a versatile dish, served as a soup garnish, main or side, that reflects our rich agricultural traditions inherited from generations past. Venison We use a lot of game meat, particularly venison, as it is abundant in the forests and includes roe deer and chamois. There’s also hare and wildfowl. The meat is naturally lean and healthy, and can be enjoyed in a variety of ways – braised, raw or roasted – always offering that distinct game flavour. Festive sweet treats Zelten is a traditional sweet bread flecked with dried fruit, nuts and spices. It’s a hybrid of Italy’s panettone and Austria’s stollen. We usually come together as a family to prepare it around 1 December then take it along to gatherings through the festive season. Other popular regional treats are krapfen (chewy doughnuts usually filled with apricot jam), apfelküchlein (apple fritters) and knieküchle (deep-fried dough with a thin middle and thicker edges). Christmas traditions South Tyrol is very religious, so Christmas is an important holiday. We mark Christmas Eve with soup and bread, and usually the 25th involves a centrepiece of braised venison or fillet of roast beef served with potatoes, red cabbage and herb dumplings to soak up the jus. Many traditional households celebrate with a bauernbratl (farmer’s roast) of pork belly or ribs in a caraway seed marinade. Pasta dishes The contemporary Italian influence is evident in the likes of ravioli filled with spinach and mountain cheese, tagliatelle with venison ragu and mountain herb pesto stirred through spaghetti. The most traditional regional speciality is schlutzkrapfen – ravioli-like pasta pockets, often filled with porcini mushrooms. Wine South Tyrolean wines have a great reputation, dating back hundreds of years thanks to wine-making traditions in the monasteries. The Eisack Valley makes the most of warm days and cold nights, which results in excellent fresh white and sparkling varieties. Merano and Bolzano, in the south of the region, benefit instead from warmer climates for elegant reds. Ladin culture A unique combination of German and Latin, this small Alpine community is one rooted in folklore and ancient traditions. The Ladin communities live in two valleys in the heart of the Dolomites: Val Gardena and Alta Badia. Signature dishes include ravioli-like cajinci, panicia barley soup and sweet grappa-infused furtaies (‘funnel cakes’), traditionally served to celebrate wedding engagements. Where to eat and drink in South Tyrol Finsterwirt and Vitis, Brixen Though housed in one of the oldest buildings in town, enveloped in wood panelling and stained glass, the tucked-away Finsterwirt restaurant serves creative contemporary plates, such as veal with salsa verde, Eisack Valley wine soup and duck leg with potato rösti and orange jus. Adjoining wine bar Vitis is home to 500 wines, many of which are local and best sipped by the stone fountain in the leafy courtyard. adlerbrixen.com Toma Spirit & Winebar, Bolzano Local duo Tobias and Marian’s compact but well-stocked wine bar is a great spot to soak up Bolzano’s bustling vibe while tasting some of the region’s finest wines by the glass, from Appiano’s sparkling elegant pinot bianco, to cabernet franc grown on the slopes above Lake Caldaro. instagram.com/toma.bozen Wirtshaus Vögele, Bolzano This traditional inn was an ancient meeting spot for poets, philosophers and intellectuals, and has wood-panelled walls that provide cosy surrounds for South Tyrolean classics such as spinach ravioli with bacon butter, wiener schnitzel, apple strudel and kaiserschmarrn. voegele.it Apollonia, Sirmiano Perched in the hills up a winding road above Bolzano, this Alpine guesthouse serves cuisine from Alto Adige and dramatic views of the Dolomites. Most ingredients are locally foraged or grown on site to create spicy beef goulash with speck dumplings, Passeier Valley char fillet with herby sweet potato cream and affogato doused in homemade nut liqueur. apollonia.it Decantei, Brixen Set in a cloistered courtyard, this is an atmospheric spot to try hearty South Tyrolean dishes – a colourful trio of knödel dumplings, pumpkin-topped ravioli and deep-fried puffed potato dough blattln with sauerkraut – alongside a wide selection of craft beers. decantei.it Where to stay in South Tyrol Forestis, Plose At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Fink, Brixen Nestled in the arcades of one of Brixen’s oldest monastery townhouses, this boutique hotel has been passed down through four generations. Husband-and-wife owners Petra and Florian Fink have a deep respect for the 1450s building, creating an intentionally minimalist feel to allow original features to shine in the nine suites – thick stone walls left bare, restored ceiling frescoes decorating cosy window seats and the terrazzo flooring flecked with South Tyrolean stone. A compact vaulted spa awaits behind an ancient wooden door, its central stone plunge pool ideal for cooling down after sessions in the sauna, steam room and Roman bath outhouse. Choose to dine in the chic vaulted restaurant or outside beneath the arcade’s graceful curves. Florian curates produce from 50 local farmers – most specialising in a single ingredient – for his fresh, simple, zero-waste monastery kitchen style. The main menu is vegetarian and includes clever alternatives, such as root veg tartare, tagliolini with red cabbage cream and black truffle, and organic grain ravioli filled with chanterelles and mountain cheese. Meat and fish options are succinct and include local game and freshwater fish, from lake trout fillet to venison stew with beetroot dumplings, and veal schnitzel with lingonberry sauce. Sweet plum dumplings come with black beer ice cream, while three South Tyrolean apple varieties are showcased in a tartlet with ricotta and caramel sauce. An elegant breakfast kicks off with a soothing herb broth followed by fresh juices and fruit salads, crudités to dunk into herb ricotta and compotes to spread over warm croissants and breads, plus made-to-order spelt pancakes and crisp buckwheat waffles. fink1896.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
Looking for places to visit in Greece? Check out our top Greek food trips and discover where to eat and drink across the country
Looking for places to visit in Greece? Check out our top Greek food trips and discover where to eat and drink across the country, from eating souvlaki surrounded by history in Athens to island escapes on Crete, Sifnos and Ithaca. Discover more of the Greek islands with our guide to the best Greek islands, along with plenty of Greek hotel recommendations. For more travel inspiration, check out our best Portuguese food trips, best Spanish food trips and best French food trips. If you love an island getaway, we've got the 10 best Mediterranean islands for foodies to visit. Best Greek trips Athens From bougatsa with cinnamon sugar and the locals' favourite souvlaki, to aromatic Greek wines by the glass, try all these and more in the Greek capital – there's plenty of food to discover in between cultural exploration. Souvlaki – marinated meat grilled on skewers, sometimes served in pitta bread – is the fast food of choice for most Greeks. Around since the 1950s, O Kostas is one of the best places to try it in Athens (join the queue at this hole-in-the-wall for a truly authentic gyros experience; there’s no website but you’ll find it at Pentelis 5, near Syntagma Square). Or, for an updated (albeit smaller) version, make your way to Hoocut (“butcher’s cut”), where a group of enterprising young chefs has put an artisanal spin on the dish, using carefully sourced pork, chicken, lamb and beef and serving a vegetarian version, too. Home to a famous flea market and several scenic (if tourist-heavy) ancient landmarks, the Monastiraki neighbourhood is a must-visit. Here, Café Avissinia’s artful mish-mash of blowsy wallpaper, marble-topped tables, antiques and picture-strung walls proves the perfect backdrop to its homely mix of traditional bistro-style cooking. In true Greek style, it’s a place to casually pop in to at any time of day, with a menu that covers the whole country but is marginally skewed towards Macedonian cuisine: try the stuffed sour cabbage with pork, or cheese-filled baked potatoes. Where to stay: At the centre of ERGON House’s double-height agora (gathering place) there’s a silvery, 200-year-old olive tree. It’s just one of the highlights at this hotel, restaurant and market. At breakfast you can sample traditional sweet or savoury pies called bougatsa, while the all-day dining menu includes Greek meze, pasta, fish and meat. There are also cookery classes on offer and, if hotel guests want to cook what they buy at the market – which sells everything from local fish to herbs (ERGON’s owners also run a string of delis) – there are communal kitchens available. Doubles from £204, check availability at booking.com Crete Greece’s largest island, food is the language of love for Crete. Set across mountain and sea, while drenched in year-round sun and carpeted in olive groves, it is an abundant natural larder of fish, meat, vegetables — Cretan horta (wild greens) are the best — fruit, honey and, of course, the finest extra virgin olive oil. The original Cretan capital and, today, its second largest city, Chania is charmingly low-key, the old town’s narrow streets tumbling down to a picturesque Venetian harbour. Its chequered history is still visible in its Minoan ruins, old city walls, Venetian lighthouse and Turkish quarter, but the harbour is now lined with fish restaurants and tavernas, while 16th-century Venetian townhouses converted into chic boutique hotels hide down little backstreets. The grand covered market hall, built in the shape of a cross at the beginning of the 20th century and modelled on the market in Marseilles, has butchers’ stalls in one arcade, fishmongers in another and speciality food stores stocked with salted sardines, glistening olives and golden oils, cheeses and charcuterie. It’s open throughout the week, but on Saturdays there’s also an open-air farmers’ market nearby. Where to stay: Set amid chestnut trees with the rugged mountainous beauty of the Kissamos region as a backdrop, Milia is a beautifully renovated collection of 15th-century stone buildings. All rooms have thick stone walls and their own fireplaces, making it perfect for cosy off-season stays, and the retreat is surrounded by an extensive network of hiking trails. The restaurant serves traditional Cretan “humble gastronomy”, such as wild greens soup and grilled aubergine spread, as well as roast baby goat, lamb with herbs and boureki courgette pot pie cooked in a wood stove. Every Wednesday, guests can join a four-hour traditional Cretan cooking session in the kitchen. Doubles from £75, check availability at milia.gr Sifnos Known as the Cycladic island of gastronomy, Sifnos is the birthplace of renowned 20th century Greek chef Nikos Tselementes, whose cookery book is still the home-cooking bible for Greeks. While on the island, you must taste two of its most traditional dishes: revithada, a slow-cooked chickpea soup with onion, garlic and bay leaves; and mastelo, lamb cooked slowly with dill and wine in one of the ceramic pots that Sifnos is synonymous with. In recent years, Sifnos has begun to draw an elegant crowd with its contemporary restaurants, notably Cantina, which perches above the water in the shadow of Kastro, the ancient capital of the island, and its new sister restaurant Pelicanos, a reimagined waterside taverna in Faros. Omega 3 is a trendy but unpretentious seafood bar: order sharing plates of taramasalata and various raw fish dishes and accompany your meal with a bottle of fresh, crisp white (ideally a malagousia). Where to stay on Sifnos: The place to stay is Verina Astra, a boutique hotel just above the idyllic swimming spot of Poulati, which opens a second restaurant in the port of Kamares this June. Doubles at Verina Astra from £349 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Peloponnese Discover the scenic Peloponnese peninsula, a region with strong Mediterranean flavours and rich culinary traditions. Olive fans should visit the coastal town of Kalamata to try the famous black olives in their namesake town. Further south, the rugged Mani Peninsula has more to explore, from the stone village of Areopoli filled with unpretentious tavernas, to fortified medieval town Monemvasia which clings to a rock off the coast. You can dine on seafood and local specialties inside the castle walls at Chrisovoulo. Charming Nafplio is another town worth visiting - a vibrant seafront destination full of neoclassical architecture and culinary delights. The Peloponnese makes for a great road trip – discover this and more in our 10 unmissable road trips for food lovers. Kefalonia A Greek island that feels unspoilt but is easy to get to. Pretty towns to explore and stunning beaches to relax on. Local specialities to discover in charming restaurants. Kefalonia ticks all the boxes of what we're looking for in a Greek island getaway. You can fly direct from several UK airports and you'll be transported to rolling hills, lush greenery, dramatic cliffs and sparkling blue sea. Myrtos Beach has been voted one of the best beaches in the world so is a must-visit for white sand sandwiched in between dramatic cliffs. Stop for fresh juices and sandwiches at Myrtillo at the top of the cliff before heading down. Hire a car to drive further along the stunning cliff road and spend time in the pretty villages of Fiskardo and Assos – ideal locations for a long lunch overlooking the water. Where to stay: Eliamos is an all-villa hotel that blends privacy with five-star hotel luxury. Designed to feel like a home away from home, 12 secluded villas are set on the hillside, divided by lavender-lined paths to create a village atmosphere. Expect high ceilings and open beams, generous bathrooms with olive oil toiletries to use in waterfall showers and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors opening onto private terraces with saltwater pools that boast uninterrupted views over the Ionian Sea. Wake up early to watch the sunrise from the breakfast terrace. The à la carte menu includes a range of egg dishes and avocado on toast variations, along with Greek specialities such as bougatsa thessalonikis (vanilla cream and cinnamon filled pastries), fresh pita and pancakes with local honey and apricot jam. The terrace is also where lunch and dinner are served: don't miss the traditional tomato fritters, a must-try that you'll want to order on repeat. When you're not relaxing by the pool, you can hire e-bikes to explore the island, have an in-room massage, take a cooking class or hit the outdoor gym. From £650, check rates and availability at eliamos.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Ithaca Visit this peaceful Ionian island to beach-hop by boat, swim in dazzling cobalt waters and graze your way through meltingly soft feta, local olives, just-caught fish and note-perfect lemon tart. There are plenty of food shops in Stavros, from a greengrocers and a fishmongers to a basic supermarket but don’t miss the shop marked 'General Store’ – the last small family-owned grocery on the island, it’s been operating since 1930 and still has beautiful old wooden cabinets towering all the way around its walls. Also in Stavros, cheerful orange-hued Cafe Margarita is the centre of local village life, in no small part thanks to owner Maria’s renowned baking skills. There are normally spinach and cheese pies on offer and, occasionally, a delicious courgette quiche but she’s also known for her rovani – local cake made with ground rice, olive oil and honey. Visit Frikes, a postcard-perfect arc of painted houses overlooking glitteringly clear water. There are plenty of cafes to choose from here but only the seriously steel-willed could miss Dodoni, the ice cream parlour. Just beware that it’s addictively good. Check out our full guide to Ithaca for more recommendations. Where to stay: stay at the Levendis Estate. Run with great care by an Aussie-Greek couple, Spero and Marilyn Raftopulos plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko, this collection of four cottages plus a swimming pool is set on Spero’s family homestead, overlooking a bay in the north of the island. Cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner, plus supplies for breakfast. You can easily stay within the Levendis gates – happy to swim in the pool and snooze in the cottage garden (each one has cleverly been designed for ultimate privacy) – or you could amble down to one of two little coves around 10-20 minutes’ walk away, the routes thrumming with butterflies and the sound of goat bells as you make your way past olive and cypress trees. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com. Spetses The name Spetses derives from an ancient Greek word that reflects the pine trees that blanket much of the island. But the Venetians also christened the island “Spezia” as it was on a major spice route, floating in the Saronic Gulf between mainland Greece and the Peloponnese. During the Greek war of Independence from Turkey, in 1821, the island played a pivotal role. Today, however, it’s a tranquil, Hellenic version of the Hamptons, albeit slightly more low-key, where some of Greece’s wealthiest dynasties come to play attracted by its verdant charm (its interior is laced with walking trails) and by quiet coves and beaches like Ligoneri Vrellas and Agioi Anargyroi. Food-wise, it's the classics that win out here: grilled octopus with parsley pesto and lobster spaghetti at taverna Patralis. Don't leave the island without sampling or buying a box of the orange blossom-scented, sugar-dusted chewy almond cookies called amygdalota. Where to stay: In the Old Harbour, the former port authority building has been sensitively restored to house the Orloff Resort. Doubles cost from £141, check availability at booking.com Rhodes Known for its ancient ruins, medieval old town and sun-drenched coastline, Rhodes is ideal for those seeking a historic retreat with exceptional food. Once home to the Colossus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the island’s Ottoman, Italian and maritime influences are clear in both the architecture and fare. For seafood lovers, Limanaki Restaurant in Kolymbia is a must – simple grilled catch of the day (choose your own fresh from the counter) is drizzled with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. For something a little less traditional, beach-front Ronda in the old town offers a stellar sushi selection and cocktails perfect for golden-hour sipping. Sweet cravings are best satisfied at Gelateria Palladion in the old town – once voted Greece’s best – the Italian-influenced architecture of the town square making it the ideal place to enjoy a scoop or two. Or cool down with local frozen yogurt at one of the many cafés housed in the signature whitewashed buildings of Lindos after an ascent up its clifftop acropolis. Where to stay in Rhodes: For a modern, laid-back stay, Casa Cook Rhodes is a stylish boho-chic adults-only retreat backed by mountains. Its two restaurants serve thoughtfully prepared dishes – expect all the meze classics like creamy taramasalata, tzatziki and hummus with warm pita or grilled souvlaki and gyros, with vegetarian options throughout. Breakfasts here are a standout: local honey drizzled over thick yogurt, scrambled eggs with salmon and a daily rotating smoothie selection. Don’t miss a chilled freddo coffee before heading off to explore. Come evening, the beach bar pulses with laid-back DJ sets, the ideal backdrop to sip on sweet local Rhodian melitio wine. While you’re there, hike up to hilltop Tsambika Monastery for panoramic views of the Med and you might even spot a goat or two. Doubles from €209 per night, check availability at casacook.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk Thessaloniki Want to explore more of the Greek mainland? Thessaloniki is Greece's second-biggest city and has plenty to offer foodies. It was the country’s first City of Gastronomy in 2021 and has a diverse cuisine influenced by its varied history from the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. Spend time in Ladadika, the historic waterfront district with pretty cobbled streets to explore, lined with colourful pastel-painted buildings and filled with tavernas, restaurants and cafes. Try local produce at the covered Modiano market and visit one of Thessaloniki's oldest bakeries, Koukos, for lunch for the famous cheese pie – a feta-filled slab of flaky filo pastry. As Thessaloniki sits on the coast, it's great for fresh fish and seafood lovers; 7 Thalasses offers simple grilled or fried fish dishes or try something unique at Mourga for the regularly changing menu based around the best fish available. Where to stay in Thessaloniki: ON Residence sits right on Thessaloniki's seafront. The elegant hotel exudes a slick, art deco vibe, retaining many original features from its 1920s-era construction from chequered black and white floor tiles to intricate ceiling mouldings. The interiors of the 60 rooms are understated but chic, with pearl grey walls and snowy white bed linen contrasting with rich, jewel-coloured velvet furniture. On-site restaurant, Olympos Naoussa, serves up a buffet-style breakfast in tastefully plush surrounds; pile your plate with anything from local cheeses to hot egg dishes and bougatsa, a traditional sweet custard pastry dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. Doubles from £150, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or hilton.com Folegandros If you want to escape the crowds of well known Greek islands like Santorini or Mykonos, add Folegandros to your wishlist instead. It is one of the lesser known Cyclades islands with a population under 1,000, no airport and one road. It's the perfect destination to switch off, slow down and simply soak up the views of the Aegean Sea. The limited phone signal should help. Visit the traditional Cycladic town of Chora, take a boat trip round the island and swim at Katergo and Livadaki beaches. For dinner, head to the main square to Kritikos. Order matsata as an accompaniment to rabbit stew, tomato-stewed rooster or kontosouvli (pork roasted on a large spit) and wash it down with the house wine. The remote taverna Papalagi offers spectacular views for a memorable meal. Where to stay in Folegandros: The opening of Gundari in 2024 helped put Folegandros on the map. This five-star eco-friendly resort is the pinnacle of sustainable luxury. Its 29 suites and villas are bio-climatically designed, using solar energy to minimise energy use, kitted in natural colours and with private pools. The cliff-edge pool with swim-up cocktail bar is as dreamy as it sounds, as is the subterranean sea view spa. The resort's own organic farm provides produce and restaurants are helmed by Greece’s first Michelin-star chef, Lefteris Lazarou, serving dishes such as squid with basil pesto, seabass carpaccio and Cycladic salad with local souroto cheese. gundari.com Doubles from £394; check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Ikaria This tiny, rugged island in the north Aegean region is renowned for longevity and a zest for life and featured as one of the Blue Zones in the Netflix series by Dan Buettner. Come to soak up the sunshine and embrace a slower pace of life. Ikaria has brilliant beaches to offer: visit Seychelles or Nas beach for super white sand and clear blue seas. The island is also home to several thermal springs that claim to reduce stress and anxiety and promote relaxation. For the more active, the island is dotted with hiking trails and 37 saves to explore. Where to stay in Ikaria: Cavos Bay Hotel & Studios has a traditional architectural style and is located on the north coast of Ikaria overlooking the stunning Armenistis Bay. Low-key and locally owned, the property oozes Greek charm and has two pools, but is also just a short stroll from a sandy beach. Doubles from £63, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Five Greek island getaways for food lovers
Kate Lough shares her edit of the best Greek islands that foodies should bookmark – where to stay, what to do and where to eat
As well as characterful hotels, sparkling waters for swimming and beautiful Mediterranean light, the Greek islands are a haven for food lovers with everything from traditional tavernas to modern gastronomy, farm-to-table communal feasts and a buzzing viticulture in between. From Tinos to Crete, we round up the best Greek islands to earmark for a summer trip. Best Greek island holidays for food lovers Sifnos Known as the Cycladic island of gastronomy, Sifnos is the birthplace of renowned 20th century Greek chef Nikos Tselementes, whose cookery book is still the home-cooking bible for Greeks. While on the island, you must taste two of its most traditional dishes: revithada, a slow-cooked chickpea soup with onion, garlic and bay leaves; and mastelo, lamb cooked slowly with dill and wine in one of the ceramic pots that Sifnos is synonymous with. In recent years, Sifnos has begun to draw an elegant crowd with its contemporary restaurants, notably Cantina, which perches above the water in the shadow of Kastro, the ancient capital of the island, and its new sister restaurant Pelicanos, a reimagined waterside taverna in Faros. Omega 3 is a trendy but unpretentious seafood bar: order sharing plates of taramasalata and various raw fish dishes and accompany your meal with a bottle of fresh, crisp white (ideally a malagousia). The place to stay is Versina Astra, a sexy boutique hotel just above the idyllic swimming spot of Poulati, which opens a second restaurant in the port of Kamares this June. Where to stay on Sifnos: Doubles at Verina Astra from £349 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Milos On the north-western coast of Milos you will find the charming village of Trypiti where hotelier Nausika Georgiadou has an even more charming house overlooking the curve of Klima. The former economist has spent the last eight years shaping the perfect hideaway, Skinopi Lodge, in the neighbouring village. Set within an olive grove, the fruits of which are bottled for guests, the lodge launches its kitchen table this summer. Guests staying in its seven villas will be able to pick their own herbs and vegetables for cooking classes with local grandmothers, as well as enjoy communal evening feasts cooked in a traditional Cycladic wood oven. When you are not marvelling at the Skinopi sunsets or swimming off its private deck, try and bag a table at O Hamos!, where the Psatha family only include what they grow or rear on their nearby farm— try the pork kleftiko — on the restaurant’s handwritten menu. Sarakiniko cove is known for its white rock formations and crystal blue waters. Have a swim, then head to Ohamos to sit in its shady, flower-filled garden and try local dishes like aubergine with pork or roast kid; the meats and cheeses come from the owners’ farm. For a real treat, charter Nausika’s boat Summer Wine to take you to the neighbouring island of Kimolos, and book in for a feet-in-the-sand lunch at To Kyma. Where to stay on Milos: Villas at Skinopi Lodge from £386 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Folegandros Near to Milos, the diminutive island of Folegandros was put on the map in 2024 thanks to the opening of Gundari, a five-star eco resort set in 80 acres of nature reserve on its western coast. Food takes centre stage with Michelin-starred Greek chef Lefteris Lazarou behind its dining spaces, which are powered by the hotel’s own organic farm, where guests can also enjoy farm-to-fork dinners. From Gundari, there are many hiking routes to explore, virgin beaches to discover and tavernas with spectacular views to bookmark — such as Papalagi, which is best enjoyed after a boat trip around the island. For something a little special, foodies should request a cooking class with yiayia Irene, whose homespun recipes have sustained her restaurant kitchen for more than 60 years. For dinner outside of the in resort, head to the main square on Folegandros, to Kritikos. Order matsata as an accompaniment to rabbit stew, tomato-stewed rooster or kontosouvli (pork roasted on a large spit). The house wine is good, or order a carafe of tsipouro. Where to stay on Folegandros: Standard suite at Gundari from £385 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Tinos Tinos still flies relatively under the radar but it has much to offer the more intrepid traveller. Strewn with more than 40 traditional villages, nascent vineyards and secluded beaches, the Cycladic island is also a hot tip for the more discerning food lover. Seafood pasta at Thalassaki by the water’s edge is a must, as is the lobster baked with orzo at Marathia near Agios Fostis. Stay at Xinara House, a beautifully converted old bishop’s house set beneath Exombourga Mountain, where its house manager Jenny can organise all manner of like-a-local experiences, from private tastings of O-Tionos’ Assyrtiko wines, to visits to Aggelas Rouggeri, where local kariki cheese is matured in the traditional Tinos style. Where to stay on Tinos: Xinara House, check rates and availability at xinarahouse.com or booking.com Crete Greece’s largest island, food is the language of love for Crete. Set across mountain and sea, while drenched in year-round sun and carpeted in olive groves, it is an abundant natural larder of fish, meat, vegetables — Cretan horta (wild greens) are the best — fruit, honey and, of course, the finest extra virgin olive oil. Bed down near the pretty Venetian town of Chania at the family-run Methoi Kindeli Estate, a working organic farm dating back to the 17th century which has three guesthouses to choose from. Family recipes are shared to provide inspiration for evenings spent playing chef in your kitchen, and its myriad fruits are served at breakfast and stocked in guest fridges. For something a little swankier, the iconic Blue Palace reopens this May under the Phāea brand as a boutique hotel. With food at its core, guests will be invited to harvest and cook their own ingredients in the traditional way, under the soil, before enjoying a communal feast under the night sky — alongside Cretan wines. Where to stay on Crete: Metohi Kindelis Estate guesthouses from £240 per night, check availability at metohi-kindelis.gr. Phāea Blue Palace suites from £575 per night, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Kate Lough is a freelance writer and editor. You can follow her on Instagram @‌kateloughstudio More hotel inspiration for Greek island getaways from our team Eliamos, Kefalonia Eliamos is an all-villa hotel that blends privacy with five-star hotel luxury and uninterrupted views of the Ionian Sea. Designed to feel like a home away from home, 12 secluded villas are set on the hillside, divided by lavender-lined paths to create a village atmosphere. Expect high ceilings and open beams, generous bathrooms with olive oil toiletries to use in waterfall showers and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors opening onto private terraces with saltwater pools that boast uninterrupted sea views. The on-site open-air restaurant Olais (named after the birds that visit the surrounding olive trees) forms the heart of Eliamos, with all meals enjoyed outdoors with views of the sea, Wake up early to watch the sunrise for breakfast here, where the à la carte menu includes a range of egg dishes and avocado on toast variations, along with Greek specialities such as bougatsa thessalonikis (vanilla cream and cinnamon filled pastries), fresh pita and pancakes with local honey and apricot jam. Enjoy impressive salads at lunch and Kefalonian specialities for dinner, from tomato fritters to Kreatopita (meat pie) with layers of crunchy pastry and tender ragu. Unwind with in-room spa treatments, walk down a secret path to the secluded beach cove or hop on an e-bike to explore the island. The open-air gym is great for an outdoor workout or guided Pilates class. For a hands-on experience, join a Mediterranean cookery class on the Olais restaurant patio. From £650, check rates and availability at eliamos.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Casa Cook, Rhodes Tucked into the mountain-fringed landscape near Kolymbia, Casa Cook Rhodes is an adults-only retreat that blends soulful design with a connection to nature and community. The hotel's architecture leans into simplicity – whitewashed structures, organic textures and calming pools merge beautifully with olive trees and rugged hillsides. Every room has a unique offering but the shared pool suites are particularly clever – semi-private thanks to verandas and greenery. Casa Cook takes the Greek concept of parea – a gathering of friends sharing ideas and moments – and infuses it into every aspect, from the communal tables at its Kitchen Club restaurant to the layout of its pools. Food is fresh and thoughtful, with a focus on seasonal ingredients. Breakfast is a standout: local honey, thick yogurt and freshly baked breads sit alongside international options. The Freddo, a blended iced coffee, is also not one to miss. For lunch, Olive restaurant offers a relaxed, poolside setting serving meze plates. Come evening the beach bar pulses with laid-back DJ sets, the ideal backdrop to sip on sweet local Rhodian melitio wine. Wellness is central here: morning yoga sessions, a tranquil spa and the ever-present backdrop of the mountains create an atmosphere of serene escape. For those seeking a bit more adventure, climb up to the Tsambika Monastery. Along the way you’ll brush shoulders with mountain goats pecking at olive trees until reaching a hilltop with panoramic views across the island’s landscape, where mountains roll into turquoise bays. It’s a hotel that doesn't just offer a place to stay but curates a rhythm of life – slow, social and deeply restorative. Starting room rates, including breakfast, at Casa Cook Rhodes are EUR 209 per night, depending on the booking period. Check availability at casacook.com or booking.com Amathus Residences, Cyprus Amathus Beach Hotel is a truly luxurious place to rest your head right on the Limassol waterfront. In addition to the beachfront hotel, one-, two- and three-bedroom serviced residences are available to book for longer stays, with access to the hotel’s vast facilities such as top-tier restaurants (The Grill Room and Limanaki Restaurant, plus Italian, Cantonese and Japanese-Peruvian fusion spots), a spa, tennis court, fitness centre, indoor-outdoor pool and more. Some apartments have private pools on balconies overlooking the beach, and all have impeccably stylish décor with floor-to-ceiling windows, muted tones and a marble bathroom kitted out with Molton Brown products. The breakfast buffet, served from the Kalypso Restaurant, includes live cooking stations and Cypriot specialties such as tahinopittes (sweet tahini pastries), grilled halloumi and local honey, best enjoyed on the terrace overlooking the crystalline waters on a warm day. From £1,742 based on a two-night stay for two adults. Check rates and availability at amathusresidences.com or booking.com Nido, part of the Mar-Bella Collection, Corfu If you're looking for a luxurious slice of heaven just a short drive from Corfu old town, five-star adults only hotel Nido is for you. Part of the Mar-Bella collection, Nido consists of 70 rooms, all are suites and come with their own mini pool or jacuzzi. It has two restaurants offering Greek and Mediterranean gastronomy and two bars – one of which is in the infinity pool. So you can sip a cocktail while staring out at the breath-taking panoramic views of the Ionian sea. Relaxation and indulgence are the name of the game at Nido and it's been carefully designed to be a treat for the senses. Colourful bougainvillea line the paths and the decor is exquisite – our favourite room is the Heritage bar. With huge windows, plush furnishings and a stunning marble-topped bar, it's the perfect place for pre dinner drinks. You're in good hands with their mixologists, who were thrilled to bring us everything from fresh juice to negroni spagliatio (with prosecco in it). Compared to the all inclusive sister hotel MarBella next door, which has 359 rooms and is a very family-friendly affair, Nido is peaceful and intimate. It would be a great spot for a romantic getaway. However, there are some fantastic meals to be eaten at MarBella – we enjoyed plate after plate of fantastic fresh fish and seafood at the Deck beach bar and grill while sipping local Greek wines. The good news is they offer a dine around experience, to experience the restaurants at MarBella all you need to do is hitch a ride in one of the private golf carts. A highlight of our stay was lunch in the rustic, family-owned Akrogiali taverna, located next to the hotel beach. It was here we had the best taramasalata we've ever had the pleasure of eating with warm, fluffy pitta, scattered with oregano and salt – a thoughtful touch which really set this taverna lunch apart. As well as Greek salad drenched in extra virgin olive oil, made with salty Corfu olives and tomatoes which tasted of sunshine. Sat in a shady spot, next to the lapping waves, it really is paradise. There are lots more classic dishes to try too, like calamari, baked butter beans and stuffed tomatoes. Another one for your itinerary is the walking food tour of Corfu town, organised by the hotel. Starting in Durrell park, under the low branches of olive and magnolia trees, you'll learn about architecture, history, Corfu traditions and, of course, food! Stopping at the best local spots, we tried delicious cured meats, cheeses and – our favourite – sweet and savoury pastries from a tiny bakery. We couldn't stop smiling as we wolfed down feta and spinach pie, nutty halwa bites and slices of custard tart. All washed down with the ginger beer that's a Corfu must-try. Anyone who appreciates good ingredients will love stopping at the spice shop, an Aladdin's cave that hits you with an unbelievable fragrance before you're even through the door. For those with a sweet tooth, there's the artisan kumquat shop. From the traditional candied fruits which have a deep floral honey-like flavour, to the selection of boozy beverages, there's something for everyone. Make sure you get a freshly made canned cocktail to sip on while you walk. Heads up for booking: Greek Orthodox Easter is in April and Corfu town gets exceptionally busy, as the church plays a central role in the procession and ceremonies. Rates at Nido start at €196 for bed and breakfast, they also offer half board. At MarBella, rooms start at €272 with premium all inclusive. Hotel Archontiko Angelou, Leros Though Marianna doesn’t offer dinner at this sympathetically renovated old mansion, her al fresco breakfasts are worth a visit alone. She uses a glut of local ingredients (many grown in the hotel’s garden, where breakfast is taken), including freshly squeezed juices, yogurt, honey, home-baked bread, fresh cheeses, jams and a legendary lemon curd. There are also vegan, dairy- and gluten-free options, such as chia puddings and cashew cheese. If you want to explore Leros, Marianna will pack a picnic for you. If not, press her for recommendations, from the island’s best beaches and tavernas to boat trips for lazy days spent snoozing and swimming to remote white pebble beaches. Doubles from £121 per night, check availability at hotel-angelou-leros.com or booking.com Kivotos and Mavro, Santorini Perched high on Santorini's cliffs, Kivotos Hotel's unique architecture mirrors the island's volcanic aesthetic, creating a dramatic and sleek effect for a luxury break. Located in the tranquil area of Imerovigli on the island’s coastal west side, the hotel’s unobstructed views of the crescent-shaped caldera are among the best on the island. The perfect spot to soak in these scenes is at Kivotos’ upscale dining establishment, Mavro. Now under the expert guidance of Chef Dimitris Katrivesis, Mavro blends local ingredients and traditional recipes with modern flavour combinations. Drawing from Katrivesis’ global travels, the signature cooking technique is Japanese robata (open fire cooking) while the Greek shared dining style, ‘moirasma’, is heartily embraced. These sharable tasting menus, themed around the phases of the moon, feature locally sourced ingredients and superbly fresh seafood that is delivered daily by local fishermen. The whole effect is bold, decadent, and unforgettable with a bucket list Santorini-sunset as your backdrop. Doubles from £448 per night, check availability at booking.com and expedia.co.uk Rosy’s Little Village, Agistri A cluster of whitewashed buildings splashed with bright bursts of bougainvillea, hibiscus and geraniums, Rosy’s perches above a small rocky cove (grab a kayak to explore sea caves nearby). A family-run hotel serving simple but excellent food, the extensive menu at its terrace restaurant includes marinated anchovies, zucchini pie, rosemary lamb and glasses of local retsina, a salty-sweet wine made using pine tree sap. Best of all, freshly caught fish (sold by weight) includes sardines, red mullet and swordfish, all of which is simply grilled and served with organic vegetables grown on-site. Eat looking out across the Saronic Gulf towards the neighbouring island of Aegina. Doubles from £82 per night, check availability at rosyslittlevillage.com The Good Life, Syros The villas and studios at this aptly named organic retreat each come with kitchens (help yourself to plums, peaches, figs and lemons from the farm to pep up your holiday breakfasts). Guests at The Good Life congregate around a large outdoor kitchen in the evenings to cook and share stories, and once a week they’re invited to join a (complimentary) communal dinner – think barbecued beef fillet with a range of pitta breads and salads – accompanied by generous amounts of Greek wine. Grapes in the vineyards are also used to distill juice for tsipouro (similar to Italian grappa), and guests are given a small bottle to take home with them. Double villa from £182, check availability at booking.com Kamarotí, Sifnos Sensitively built within an ancient olive grove (not a single tree was cut down during construction), with views over the pretty village of Kastro and the Aegean Sea beyond, Kamarotí puts a surprisingly Spanish twist on its food (the hotel is owned by three Spanish brothers). Breakfast varies greatly: you might have Spanish omelette one day, and diced home-grown tomatoes with fresh local mizithra cheese and crushed melon seed juice the next. Dinner, served only in July and August, starts with a selection of tapas, and paella is on the menu once a week. Doubles from £110, check availability at kamaroti.com Villa de Loulia, Corfu Named after owner Loukia’s grandmother, Loulia, who built this historic Italianate villa in 1808, Villa de Loulia houses nine elegant, colourful bedrooms and suites, plus a restaurant that serves old family recipes made from local, organic produce. Start the day by the pool with Loukia’s homemade zucchini pie or ravani orange and almond semolina cake, then explore the ancient village of Peroulades and its uncrowded beaches before heading back to Villa de Loulia for classic Corfiot dishes (including bourdeto: fish cooked in spicy tomato sauce). Doubles from £108 a night, check availability at villadeloulia.gr Milia Mountain Retreat, Crete Set amid chestnut trees with the rugged mountainous beauty of the Kissamos region as a backdrop, Milia is a beautifully renovated collection of 15th-century stone buildings. All rooms have thick stone walls and their own fireplaces, making it perfect for cosy off-season stays, and the retreat is surrounded by an extensive network of hiking trails. The restaurant serves traditional Cretan “humble gastronomy”, such as wild greens soup and grilled aubergine spread, as well as roast baby goat, lamb with herbs, and bureki courgette pot pie cooked in a wood stove. Every Wednesday, guests can join a four-hour traditional Cretan cooking session in the kitchen. Doubles from £75, check availability at milia.gr Levendis Estate, Ithaca Aussie-Greek couple Marilyn and Spero Raftopulos – plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko – run this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool on Spero’s family homestead. It overlooks a bay in the north of the island and has been going for more than 30 years. Bathrooms come generously stocked with Levendis’ own natural skincare products, while cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner. Plus peach juice, bread, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast. Click here for more places to eat and drink in Ithaca. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Mèlisses, Andros A stylish, four-suite guesthouse, Mèlisses is a favourite with foodies thanks to its culinary host, Allegra Pomilio, an Italian with a passion for all things Greek. Every season she hosts a selection of retreats and workshops together with guest chefs and other creatives. Sign up and, in between learning how to cook tahini chocolate cookies, you might join an excursion to nearby waterfalls or to Palaiopoli, the ancient, partly-submerged former capital of the island. Suites have kitchens and sea views and are so dreamily decorated in shades of greys and blues that you’ll want to move right in. Guests gather in the open-plan kitchen for breakfast before heading down to the private bay, glass of homemade sour cherry lemonade in hand, for a morning dip. Check rates and availability at melisses-andros.com Ktima Lemonies, Andros As the name suggests, the Ktima Lemonies estate on lush Andros is surrounded by lemon (and olive) groves. Start the day with syrup made from lemon tree flower petals (which owner Nelly carefully collects at dawn to avoid bees and to keep them fresh), served on bread or simply from the jar. Only breakfast is available, but making your own picnic lunch from the breakfast buffet is encouraged rather than frowned upon here, and you can enjoy a glass of the estate’s own wines or limoncello in the evening before heading out to one of the island’s many restaurants. Check rates and availability at ktimalemonies.gr More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
European hidden gems: must-visit hotels off the beaten track
From a vineyard to undiscovered beaches in Portugal and waterside Scandinavian boltholes, these are the best hidden gem hotels in Europe
Looking for a gourmet getaway that is off the beaten track? We're sharing some of our favourite hotels and havens in places you might not have visited yet across Europe. Head to the wildlife-rich wetlands outside Amsterdam to stay at a 17th-century inn, discover a tiny Tuscan island, stay at a luxurious Sicilian farmhouse or experience French countryside chic in a hidden cabin. Read on to discover all our best European hidden gems. For more travel inspiration, check out our picks of the best Italian hotels, best Spanish hotels and the best European city breaks for foodies. For UK travel inspiration, check out our picks of the best country house hotels in the UK and the best hotel baths worth travelling for. De Durgerdam, Netherlands Doubles from £312, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com A 15-minute drive or boat ride from Amsterdam city centre, De Durgerdam is a collection of colourful clapboard houses strung along a dike in the rural wildlife-rich wetlands. At its centre a 17th-century inn has been meticulously restored into a stylish restaurant with rooms. Perch on a parasol-shaded bench out front for coffee and madeleines, while folk cycle past on a country escape, before sauntering down the jetty to swim off the pontoon. The destination restaurant, De Mark, is a collaboration between some of Amsterdam’s most applauded chefs. Dine waterside among the reeds or head inside for cosy, candlelit dinners with nods to the sea at every turn. The cocktail list twists classics with the likes of spiced honey sours while the nautical take on a caesar salad tosses North Sea crab with sea herbs and shavings of Dutch parmesan. A hot skillet of grilled tarragonbrined chicken is best paired with skin-on crispy chips to mop up the salted lemon jus, before a coupe of strawberries macerated in Dutch herbal liquor. Post-meal, retire to the reading room – a terracotta cocoon complete with antique honesty bar, alluring window seat and wood stove to keep things cosy in the colder months. The 14 rooms are sumptuously decorated in warm, earthy tones with velvet throws, frilly wall lamps and armchairs. There’s a commitment to sourcing everything from the Netherlands, from Zenology products to use in the walk-in showers to Dutch herbal teas, stroopwafels and fisherman’s jenever for sipping in the garden while watching the sun set over the wetlands. The three suites, built into the main building’s characterful eaves, even come with blue Kassl raincoats for walks to the neighbouring farm’s milk tap. Doubles from £312, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Le Barn, Bonnelles, France Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com If you’re looking for a taste of serenity without the burden of long travel, Le Barn, set in France’s Bonnelles countryside, should be high on your wishlist. Just 40 minutes from Paris Orly airport, the 500-acre estate offers an outdoors experience with comfort and luxury. The grounds are shared with Haras de la Cense, a prestigious horse riding training centre, and there are horses dotted around the vast space, as well as the option to go riding or try the Whisperer’s Experience. Guests are shown the basics of horse training and invited to try what they’ve learned with one of the many animals on site. This hotel is all about switching off and enjoying nature. Digital detoxing is easy when there are warm Nordic baths, a steam room, sauna, electric bikes, forest walks and weekly activities all included in the price. Wind down for the evening with a drink by the fire in the colder months, or under a canopy of wisteria in the garden in summer. Food is seasonally led, using as much as possible from the kitchen garden and locally sourced produce. The menu changes daily, according to what’s available, but dishes can include stuffed rotisserie chicken or roasted leg of lamb, with sides of roasted carrots, leeks and potatoes. Desserts are a treat not to be missed, including the likes of tarte aux figues and iles flottantes. Breakfast is a satisfyingly French affair: crusty bread, salty butter and homemade jams alongside eggs, bacon and pancakes. Fruit from the grounds is piled high in bowls, including huge grapes and Mirabelle plums. The 73 rooms are separate from the main farmhouse building, mostly spread across two converted barns, and provide a cosy home for your stay, with balconies that look over the horses grazing in the fields or the lake (which you can swim in). There is a big emphasis on freedom at Le Barn, meaning guests can choose how to tailor their stay and, with most activities included in the room price, it works out very reasonably. Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com La Guardia, Tuscany Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Giglio, the second largest island in the Tuscan archipelago, is lush with clifftop vineyards, fig trees and pines. The serene and stylish seaside retreat, La Guardia, is perched atop a granite cave along from the pastel-hued harbour. Brushed concrete and original stone columns are softened with driftwood decorations and wispy wicker lanterns that gently flutter in the Mediterranean breeze. Chic neutral tones continue through to the rooms, all kitted out with luxury Sicilian Ortigia toiletries and many boasting balconies and sea views. Book the junior suite to embrace the elements with a bathroom built into the granite and a beachside terrace for watching the waves lap against the rocks. Mediterranean flavours and island cuisine are served in the on-site restaurant – sip on a Venetian Select spritz at aperitivo hour before a candlelit dinner of Sicilian anchovies, palamita fish with marinated courgettes, and tagliolini with lemon butter and bottarga. The 70-strong wine list showcases rare bottles from Italy’s islands – Giglio, Ischia, Salina and beyond. Breakfast includes the likes of prosciutto, omelettes with Tuscan cheese, homemade fig bread and freshly squeezed juices. There are sunset yoga sessions on the terrace, healing zen shiatsu and Ayurvedic treatments, and e-bikes to explore the island’s rugged trails, cliff-face vineyards and restaurants in medieval castles. Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Casa Modesta, Portugal Doubles from €220 per night, check availability at booking.com or welcomebeyond.com In the heart of a residential hamlet on the border of the Algarve’s Ria Formosa lagoon, Carlos Fernandes has lovingly converted his grandparents’ house into a striking example of cubist architecture, now home to a nine-room boutique hotel. Many original features remain – Santa Catarina flooring, curved brick ceilings and stone fireplaces – interspersed with tasteful Algarvian knick-knacks for pops of colour. Four rooms are housed in the striking whitewashed extension, complete with terraces that offer swoony sunsets over the wetlands. Blankets and bespoke toiletries are curated from local artisans, while shower tiles are from nearby town Olhão (worth a visit for the impressive fish market). Continental breakfast is served home-style, laid on lace tablecloths in the kitchen. Make your selection from the likes of carrot and saffron bundt cake, fruits hand-plucked from the property, and Portuguese cold cuts – order your preference of eggs and take to the poolside terrace to enjoy beneath the dappled shade of the trees. Come evening, chef Alexandre works with local producers to put on intimate dinners using ingredients picked from the on-site pomegranate trees, fruit orchard and vegetable patch. There’s even a dedicated tea section in the herb garden – lemongrass, lemon verbena and chocolate mint. For those who prefer something stronger, an honesty bar is stocked with Algarvian wines and Portuguese spirits. Enjoy beside the original 1964 oven, still used during winter to cook chorizo bread. Sunbathe among the garden’s cork furniture, read in the shade of the replica regional fisherman’s hut, or cycle along the Fuseta eco trail in the neighbouring wetlands, home to oyster farms, eclectic birds and two families of flamingos. casamodesta.pt Doubles from €220 per night, check availability at booking.com or welcomebeyond.com Le Doyenne, Île-de-France, France Doubles from €265 per night, check availability at ledoyennerestaurant.com The allure of Le Doyenné is its remoteness. A small working farm and restaurant with a handful of charming bedrooms just 40 minutes south of Paris, this magical countryside escape is best enjoyed as a bolt-on to a Parisian weekend away. The expansive dining room is very much at the heart of the estate, surrounded by gardens which supply the kitchen. The 11 bedrooms are a considered mixture of traditional French farmhouse details (think terracotta tiles and antique furniture) and modern luxury finishes (plush beds and roll-top baths). Room 108 is the biggest – with two floors it easily sleeps a family of four. High ceilings and huge windows create an elegant penthouse feel with verdant green views. It’s the perfect place to sit for an evening aperitif. Despite the prestige of the restaurant, the atmosphere is incredibly laid back. A daily set menu showcases the best local produce, and dishes are refined but not fussy – emphasis is put on flavour. The crudités du jardin is a highlight, each raw vegetable or flower accented with a clever sauce or seasoning. The rotating main course may be local duck cooked over coal or chicken with new-season asparagus and girolles. Breakfast is a tempting array of viennoiserie, yogurt, granola and cold meats. The hot menu might feature Turkish eggs or anchovy tartines with salad. Anything else? Peek in the Le Doyenné shop, filled with homemade breads, books and pottery. Doubles from €265 per night, check availability at ledoyennerestaurant.com San Canzian, Croatia Doubles from £303, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or mrandmrssmith.com Tucked away in northern Istria’s foliage-rich hills is this medieval hamlet turned intimate boutique hotel, San Canzian. The 28 rooms are decorated in soft, muted tones pepped up with 15th-century vintage furniture and vibrant beeswax canvases. Elegant on-site restaurant Luciano is strategically placed so guests can enjoy an aperitif from the 600-strong wine cellar as the sky turns pink over the olive trees, Adriatic Sea and Dolomites in the distance. Executive chef Pavo Klaric works homegrown and local ingredients into contemporary spins on traditional Istrian dishes – polenta-crusted cod on pine nut cream, rabbit slow cooked in red wine, and agnolotti pasta filled with young Istrian curd. After a breakfast of cured ham, crumbly cheese and fruits plucked from the abundant estate, take laps of the pool or pad down to the serene spa complete with Finnish sauna and candlelit hot tub. Doubles from £303, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or mrandmrssmith.com Nordelaia, Piedmont Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Nordelaia is all about equilibrium: between tradition and modernity; simplicity and indulgence; the boundlessness of nature and the cosy, uplifting comfort of home. It lies within a hilly swathe of rural Piedmont – a region which itself represents a kind of geographical middle ground, suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800-year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are at once contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, while freestanding baths in the bedroom areas add a dose of opulence. On the first floor, the four rooms are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes by which Nordelaia, from its woody hillside perch, is engulfed: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn, and pearly whites in the winter. Two outdoor pools – one heated, one not, but both with views for miles – entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its warm stone floors, barrel-vaulted brick ceiling and stone arches, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Beyond the walls, Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here chef Charles Pearce pays stunning homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and to the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. The two coalesce inventively in his take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta that Charles instead pairs with barbecue-kissed prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a lip-smacking tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms, served with a deeply savoury anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Brosundet, Ålesund, Norway Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The motto for this waterside boutique hotel is “curated luxury, the Norwegian way”. Set amid Norway’s striking fjords, Brosundet is housed in a set of converted warehouses perched on a cobblestone walkway beside Ålesund’s main waterway. Design geeks will love the unique features and original round windows of the loft suites as well as the one-room suite in the working lighthouse and the dramatic lobby fireplace that spans four floors. Each of the 131 rooms is unique but all are simply styled in soft, muted tones with contemporary bathrooms kitted out with Norwegian argan oil skincare brand Sprekenhus. Ground-floor brasserie Apotekergata No 5 focusses on flavours from the Sunnmøre region and spills out onto a renovated barge outside for alfresco dining on the water as sailboats slide past. Arkivet Bar gets its name from a local fish oil business and these days serves old-school classic cocktails with contemporary Nordic twists. Start the day with a curated breakfast buffet of Norwegian cheese, smoked fish, homemade pastries and Jacu coffee roasted in the same town. Pick up fresh sandwiches and cardamom knots from the on-site corner shop, and head out on an adventure into the fjords for kayaking, fishing and sea wildlife safaris. Reward your activities with a reservation at the hotel’s sophisticated bistro Sjøbua round the corner. Try local delicacies such as lobster bisque, grilled Sterling halibut with Norwegian cabbage and Røros sirloin aged at the bottom of the sea for 21 days. On Saturdays there are Norwegian tea dances accompanied by live piano. Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno, Catalonia, Spain Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at masdenbruno.com, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com In the vine-laced hills of Catalonia’s Priorat region, Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno is a bold reimagining of the traditional Spanish manor house. Once a 12th-century estate, this Relais & Châteaux property now houses 24 suites that strike a harmonious balance between monastic calm and contemporary elegance. Think arched stone walls, custom-made furniture, cool marble interiors, local ceramics and an infinity pool in the silhouette of a wine bottle. It’s rural Catalonia recast through a minimalist, high-design lens, with deliberate softness. At Vinum, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant in the main building, chef Josep Queralt elevates local ingredients with quiet precision. The Sent Soví tasting menu is inspired by a medieval recipe book from 1324 and one of the earliest records of Catalan gastronomy. Standout dishes include candied leeks with Bellmunt del Priorat cottage cheese and confit egg yolk, and poultry broth enriched with roasted Reus hazelnuts. Poolside Tarraco is a more relaxed space serving the likes of watermelon and tomato gazpacho, citrus-cured sea bass ceviche and creamy rice layered with ibérico pork loin and Piquillo peppers. At Bruno’s Bar bespoke cocktails and robust Priorat reds are served beside sculptural fireplaces and a terrace that spills into the landscape. Book Bruno’s Suite for its vaulted ceilings, panoramic vineyard views, freestanding bath and olive oil based local amenities. The in-room bar (yes, a full bar, no mini here) is stocked with bold regional wines and snacks sourced from nearby artisans. Breakfast is a lavish yet unfussy affair: cooked-to-order eggs, flaky ensaïmadas, cheeses from Montsant farms and house-made compotes. The cellar-level spa is an atmospheric sanctuary offering grape seed treatments, while cycling enthusiasts can borrow the hotel’s electric bikes, making Priorat’s undulating hills a little more forgiving. Visit nearby Clos Figueras for organic wines and lunch in its garden restaurant, and browse Agrobotiga Falset for local oils and vermouth. Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at masdenbruno.com, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Susafa, Sicily Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk It’s a family affair at Susafa, a sprawling estate that has been owned by members of the Saeli-Rizzuto family for five generations - brothers Manfredi and Tommaso are now at the helm. The fortified, 19th-century farmhouse at its heart sits at the foot the Madonie mountains, near Polizzi Generosa, and is the focal point for overnight guests. Around the farmhouse are 18 simple but chic guest rooms. Between terracotta floors and exposed beams are restful ricotta-coloured walls and the odd pop of olive green or tomato red from a headboard or throw. A restaurant is housed in the old granary and flavours here take their inspiration from the traditional Sicilian table. Vegetables, herbs, fruit and organic olive oil all come straight from the farm and the menu is elegantly rustic (think tomato salads, caponata and creamy risottos). Join a cookery lesson if you can drag yourself away from the pool. Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Lådfabriken b&b, Orust, Sweden Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk An hour north from Gothenburg lies West Sweden’s Bohuslän coast, a series of islands and peninsulas home to fishing villages strung between rugged rocks. On the very western peninsula of Orust island sunshine bounces around quirky, colourful fish crate factory turned b&b, Lådfabriken. New for summer 2024 is the EKO Tiny House nestled in the cherry, almond and walnut trees of the waterside garden. Split over two levels, it’s a serene, secluded spot to gaze across the Skagerrak Sea at sunset. Owners Johan and Marcel serve family-style dinners such as cod fillets in buttery leek sauce and ‘East meets West’ coconut and lemongrass fish soup using catch of the day via Larsson’s fish shop in nearby Mollösund. When in season there is lobster soup on the menu and evenings dedicated to oyster shucking. Breakfast is a similarly homely affair, seeing the table laden with priest cheese, Swedish emmental, Leksands crackers and an array of homemade preserves – rosehip marmalade, cowberry, lingonberry and more. During the day, take a kayak out on the crystal-clear water, go wild swimming in the archipelago, kick back with a book on a deck chair in the rocky garden, or clamber over rocks following blue dots to the picture postcard Swedish hamlet of Edshultshall. Here, among red and white clapboard houses, families gather around barbecues on little jetties outside their boathouses. Guests all receive a pick-up stick on check in and are encouraged to join the owners in their #5minutesbeachcleanup initiative to sustain local ecosystems. Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Les Sources de Caudalie, France Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Twenty minutes’ drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the epitome of French country chic. There’s a stone manor house at its heart, a small lake, and a hard-working kitchen garden, plus a hamlet-like extension of suites. Great food and wine are the focus at this gastronomic getaway, but even the finest dining (the hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, holds two Michelin stars) is done without fuss. The newer, cabin-like suites (designed to reflect the oyster fishermen’s huts of Cap Ferret, in the nearby Arcachon Basin), with their whitewashed timber walls, retro-influenced furniture and spa-like bathrooms, are the ones to splash out on; in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by frogs as you return to your room along flower- and water-lined pathways. In the mornings, step onto your private terrace and watch carthorses ploughing the vines just outside. The three restaurants at Les Sources have most tastes covered. Celebrate a special occasion with dinner in La Grand’Vigne and enjoy a meal where even the table salts stick in the memory (one of ours, blended with Bordeaux pimento, was the colour of roast peppers). The cheeseboard comes with fresh cottage cheese, from a local dairy, served with a dot of cherry jam. Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Castilla Termal Brihuega, Spain From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com Surrounded by lavender fields, this little town in the region of La Alcarria is home to a new boutique hotel in a restored cloth factory. Perfect for food lovers seeking to make new discoveries, it showcases regional specialities, while its thermal waters provide an opportunity to fully relax and rejuvenate. Breakfast is a delight: all the Spanish goodies like jamón ibérico, pan con tomate and tortilla, plus local ingredients like manchego, honeycomb and tarta de uvas – a grape sponge cake which teams well with the more contemporary touch in the cold drip coffee offered. At dinner, rustic plates like kid goat and the region’s famous rum baba style cake are served in the large glass-domed restaurant. Nearby food experiences include truffle hunting at family-owned TrufaZero, which supplies many restaurants in the region. Guests can dig for the black gold sniffed out by their dog, Nino. Brihuega’s thermal spa promotes a sense of wellness and relaxation with an outdoor pool, massage jets and a bespoke lavender treatment – a two-hour ritual which includes a lavender scrub, wrap and massage. Exposed brick, wooden beams and floors, a neutral colour palette and dried floral displays add to the calming effect. castillatermal.com From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com Sublime Comporta, Portugal Doubles from £561, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com For a weekend of local wines, fresh seafood and earthy rice dishes head an hour south of Lisbon to the wild sand-fringed coastline, pine forests and stylish beach retreats of Comporta. The area has long been protected by its status as a nature reserve (at its northern end is the Sado estuary, home to bottlenose dolphins, flamingos and storks). The 17-acre estate of Sublime Comporta, its rooms, suites and cabana villas peppered among umbrella pines, cork trees, frangipane flowers and olives, is a blueprint for low-impact hotel design – stylish and subtle rather than dominating the surrounding landscape. Inside all is minimal and white, with the odd pop of polished concrete or warm wood. Though not directly on the beach (the closest is a five-minute drive away), the vibe is that of a grown-up, romantic beach retreat. There’s also a dedicated spa, using organic Amala products for its range of soothing treatments, and a yoga pavilion. Doubles from £561, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Tilia Estate, Slovenia Huts from £184, check availability at booking.com Slovenia is a compact, under-the-radar destination whose diversity of landscapes has stacks to offer visitors who love the outdoor life. Tilia Estate runs a range of cellar tours and tastings of its wonderful wines, some conducted in English – contact them for details. The nearby Theodosius Forest Village – with its seven luxurious wood cabins, some with hot tubs or saunas, set in idyllic woodlands next to its own vineyards – makes a perfect base to explore this beautiful region, where options include hiking, cycling, kayaking, climbing and paragliding. Huts from £184, check availability at booking.com Levendis Estate, Ithaca Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Aussie-Greek couple Marilyn and Spero Raftopulos – plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko – run this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool on Spero’s family homestead. It overlooks a bay in the north of the island and has been going for more than 30 years. Bathrooms come generously stocked with Levendis’ own natural skincare products, while cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner. Plus peach juice, bread, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast. Click here for more places to eat and drink in Ithaca. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Harö Natur, Sweden Check rates and availability at 59north18east.com Take the ferry from Stokcholm to this restaurant and hotel, where your bed for the night is a unique choice between a floating greenhouse, boujie boathouse or glass-fronted treehouse. In the summer months, two Italians take residence on the pizza ovens, or opt for the tasting menu sitting; a succession of contemporary Swedish dishes that might include roe with dill oil and horseradish cream, smoked char with celeriac and cucumber celery jus and woodfire oven lobster with jalapaño cream. Take a dip in the clear waters and warm up in the hot tub and dinky sauna, perched on its own pier, while sunset casts a pink and orange glow over the archipelago. Check rates and availability at 59north18east.com Andrássy Rezidencia Wine & Spa, Tarcal Doubles from £155, check availability at booking.com In Hungary’s historic Tokaj-Hegyalja wine growing region (tours of local vineyards can be arranged), this five-star hotel and spa (treatments are tailored around vinotherapy) has won a following among modern-day wine buffs looking for less mainstream tastings. While its restaurant offers modern interpretations of Hungarian classics, it’s the accompanying wine pairing choices that most guests are more concerned about – the list runs to 80 different Tokaj wines from 25 different growers. More travel guides 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best Scottish hotels Black Friday hotel deals
Check out our guide to the best European city breaks for food lovers, from tapas in Seville to cardamom buns in Gothenburg and mezze in Istanbul
There is no shortage of fascinating European city breaks for foodies to visit. If you've ticked some of the big names off your travel list already (Paris, Rome, Amsterdam), there is still plenty more to discover. Whether you go whisky tasting in Dublin, explore sprawling food markets in Lyon or discover the street food of Palermo, there is a city break for everyone. We've chosen 15 of our favourite European city breaks along with the best restaurants, cafes and foodie must-visits in each, plus a special place to stay. For more city break inspiration, check out our guide to the best UK city breaks, the best restaurants in Tbilisi or the best foodie city breaks to visit by train. 15 best European city breaks for food lovers Porto Already ticked Lisbon off your city break list? Visit Porto, Portugal's elegant second city. Base yourself in the Bombarda art district, a network of cobbled streets brimming with independent shops, tavernas and bars. Browse the neighbourhood's galleries before seeking out sunny terraces to soak up the lively atmosphere. For lunch, queue alongside locals at traditional tavern Casa Guedes for crunchy bread rolls stuffed with juicy roast pork leg and a great-value glass of Portuguese wine. For an afternoon treat, classic Portuguese custard tarts are found throughout the city – visit Manteigaria for warm tarts and watch the chefs in action (the kitchen walls are made entirely of glass). For dinner, Cantina 32 is a laid-back restaurant popular among young, trendy locals, with two sittings (one at 8pm, the other at 10pm to reflect the Mediterranean way of life) around large communal tables and smaller spots for two or four people. Leave time on your trip for a port tasting too. Visit the peaceful, rose-filled courtyard at Taylor’s Port House and order the Introduction to Taylor’s tasting flight – five ports ranging from simple white to brown tawny and a sought-after 20-year-old vintage. Where to stay: Rosa Et Al Townhouse, a six-room hotel, is a lesson in boutique design and acts as an oasis in the middle of the city. The reception desk doubles as a trendy food shop, a sign of good things to come. Rooms (complete with balconies) are blessed with original wooden floorboards, cornicing and sash windows, plus luxurious claw-footed baths, contemporary furniture and local art. For breakfast and brunch, 50 jars of tea (some made with herbs from the garden) cover a large serving table, you can choose your own Portuguese tinned cod or sardines, and there’s a walled garden out back where you can sit in the sunshine around tiled tables, eating decadent egg dishes with spruced-up sides and drinking freshly squeezed orange juice. Doubles from £117 per night, check availability at rosaetal.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Discover more foodie trips in Portugal. Lyon There's no shortage of independent food producers, cafes and restaurants to visit in Lyon. Start your day by savouring a handmade, oh-so-buttery croissant at Partisan Boulanger. The city’s best food producers, from bakers to wine merchants, can be found at Halles de Lyon, a remarkable indoor food market stretching over three floors, with 48 vendors to discover. Stop off at Terre Adélice as you explore the city and choose from their impressive range of handmade ice creams (pick basil, lavender, smoky bacon or Armagnac). For dinner, indulge in fine vegetarian dining at Culina Hortus, or head to Terrasse de l’Antiquaille, high on Fourvière hill, for impressive views of a twinkling Lyon as you dine. Where to stay: The quirky Collège Hotel, in the Vieux Lyon district, features an art deco facade and back-to-school interiors – there are giant wooden pots filled with giant wooden colouring pencils at reception. Many of the bedrooms come with private balconies, and the decor in the downstairs restaurant continues the school-inspired theme. Enjoy pre-dinner drinks on the sunny terrace. Doubles from £90 per night, check availability at college-hotel.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk Antwerp The second city of Belgium, Antwerp, has in recent years become a beacon of inventive, seasonal and hyper-local Northern European cuisine. Marché Couverts is a stylish deli and restaurant where the daily changing handwritten menu features dishes like roasted apricots with rosemary, and chicory tarte tatin with comté. Restaurant Nathan is a seafood-led fine-dining restaurant with an emphasis on seasonality and Asian flavour twists. Camion in Antwerp’s trendy green quarter is an all-day plant-based restaurant with dishes like sweet potato coconut stew, and sourdough toast caponata. The Butcher’s Son is a loft-style restaurant within the De Koninck brewery complex that specialises in locally bred nose-to-tail eating. We also love the laid-back calm at Café de Kat, a mustard-tiled Belgian cafe-bar where you can sip Belgian beer and listen to jazz crackling through the speakers. For an authentic sweet treat, head to Domestic Bakkerij and buy a bokkepootjes ('goat’s feet'), a chocolate-dipped meringue and almond biscuit that resembles a little hoof. Don't go home without ticking off classic Belgian frites: choose from five varieties of mayo and toppings galore for freshly fried chips at Frites Atelier. Where to stay: Set across five historic buildings within landscaped botanical gardens, Botanic Sanctuary brings the outdoors in while seamlessly blending modern and traditional. Rooms are dotted around the five heritage buildings, some in the converted monasterium. Certain suites contain a fireplace for keeping snug, with the bathroom featuring a free-standing bath, double sink and rainfall shower. All rooms are stocked with Saint Charles toiletries from the on-site apothecary. Drift away at the Botanic Health Spa with a soothing full body massage. Doubles from £350 per night for a classic room, check rates and availability at botanicantwerp.be, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Gothenburg This coastal city in Sweden is a must-visit for foodies, with plenty of local hotspots to discover as well as being an easy base for day trips to the archipelago and beyond. Coffee spot Da Matteo has plenty of branches throughout the city to keep you fuelled – stop at Da Matteo Torrefazione to enjoy cinnamon and cardamom buns fresh from the on-site bakery and brews straight from the in-house roastery. Visit glamorous restaurant Vrå for Nordic-Japanese fusion, Koka for Michelin-starred dining, or tiny minimalist HOZE for sushi. For more casual dining, Tacos & Tequila has a lively round-the-clock party vibe, while Kafe Magasinet has a sunny conservatory for simple lunches and inventive pizza. As the home of craft beer in Sweden, Gothenburg also has over 40 breweries to discover. Spend an evening at Spike, the city's first taproom, for innovative Swedish creations from IPAs to sours and stout. Where to stay: Hotel Flora is an uber-trendy boutique hotel handily located in the centre of Gothenburg. Rooms are kitted out with huge beds, monsoon showers and Swedish tea and coffee stations. The hotel has a buzzy bar and in summer, the shaded terrace on the hotel’s first floor is a pleasant, secluded spot to enjoy some quiet al fresco time (at night it’s lit by flickering lanterns). Come morning, the breakfast counter is laden with cold meat cuts, tubes of Kalles caviar to spread on thin wheels of Leksands crisp bread, and freshly baked croissants from Johnséns in the city’s Haga district. Doubles from £85, check availability at hotelflora.se, booking.com or expedia.co.uk Seville As the birthplace of tapas, there's plenty of food to discover in this orange-tree-lined city, along with sherry bars, bustling food markets and al fresco cafe culture. Family-run tapas bar Bodeguita Romero is always busy and a top pick for traditional tapas, while Eslava offers innovative plates, from honey pork ribs to manchego ice cream. But tapas are not the only way to eat out in Seville: classic old-school restaurant La Moneda specialises in seafood, or try Sahumo's menu centred around a wood-fired grill for smoked salmon, grilled whole squid, aged beef and more. For foodie shopping, boutique wine shop Lama La Uva has an excellent selection of regional wines to sample or take away, along with artisanal olive oils, preserves, hams and cheeses. Set aside a few hours to try all the food on offer at Lonja del Barranco Gourmet Food Market, an indoor food market with everything from steak to seafood and tacos to croquettes. For more Spanish inspiration, check out our guide to the best Spanish food trips. Where to stay: Hotel Palacio Conde Torrejon is a four-star boutique hotel set in a baroque palace just off the Alameda, near the city centre. Lovingly restored, the design looks fresh and modern while retaining original arched columns in the courtyards and timbered ceilings in some of the rooms. The excellent in-house restaurant, Origen, is run by chef Javier Abascal. Doubles from £75, check availability at hoteloneshotpalaciocondetorrejon09.com, booking.com, expedia.co.uk or lastminute.com Copenhagen Copenhagen is renowned for its Michelin-starred restaurants and clever Nordic cuisine, along with trendy hotspots for chic locals. Atelier September is a pretty cafe and gallery that does hygge at its best – join the stylish Scandi crowd at communal tables in the mornings for warm, cinnamon-infused apple juice and a traditional poppy seed-covered tebirkes pastry. Venture to Refshaleøen Island to visit Reffen, Copenhagen’s most vibrant street food market, a flock of sea containers strung together by colourful lights and Nordic flags – try Thrilla in Manila for spicy Filipino skewers or Crispy Pig for generous roast pork sandwiches. Torvehallerne market will also leave you spoilt for choice with over 6o vendors and buzzy crowds at the weekend – get there early in the morning for warm porridge from Grød, or pick up tacos and paletas (Mexican ice creams) from Hija de Sanchez for lunch. Spend an evening at cosy, candlelit wine bar Den Vandrette near the colourful buildings of Nyhavn and take your pick from the imaginative list of natural wines and Nordic small plates. For a great-value tasting menu, head to Vaekst, where Nordic vegetables and herbs are at the heart of the menu – think chive oil-drizzled mushroom soup, pickled celeriac with fried pork neck and lemon cream and standout sides such as mash with smoked cheese and fried buckwheat. Check out our guide to affordable restaurants in Copenhagen here. Where to stay: Book a room at the stylish Hotel Alexandra to be surrounded by mid-century Danish design, located just 10 minutes' walk from Torvehllarne market. The owner has curated pieces built in Denmark in the 1950s and 60s, so the bedrooms’ wooden floorboards and large windows form the perfect backdrop to rattan headboards, graphic turquoise armchairs and wooden writing desks. The stylish lobby area is an all-day hangout, with an honesty bar, complimentary wine hour and a record player ready to play the hotel’s selection of vinyl. Head to connected bistro Godtfolk and create your own breakfast from the continental buffet laid out in the conservatory with gravadlax, Danish sausages, cheeses, seeded rye bread and more. Doubles from £97, check availability at hotelalexandra.dk, booking.com or expedia.co.uk Athens In between soaking up the culture of the Acropolis, Parthenon, National Gardens and more that Athens is known for, there's a vibrant food scene to discover. Walk through the cobbled streets of the city centre to choose one of the many street food options – hearty gyros, crisp spanakopita and sweet, syrupy loukoumades. Grab a coffee from Samba Coffee Roasters and climb up Lycabettus Hill for magical orange-hued sunsets over the Acropolis, mountains and Aegean Sea. Duck into one of the city’s many tavernas (we loved no-menu cellar Diporto, deli-restaurant Karamanlidika and old-school fish spot Ouzeri Lesvos) for traditional Greek dishes such as homemade moussaka, fresh Greek salads and rice-stuffed vegetables, known as ‘gemista’. Where to stay: Book one of the nine suites at intimate boutique hotel Monument in the centre of the city. Enjoy a made-to-order Greek breakfast on your private marble balcony with dazzling views of the Acropolis. Doubles from £353, check availability at monumenthotelathens.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Berlin This multicultural city has plenty to discover, from German classics to global influences from Vietnam, Japan, Turkey and more. The beating heart of Berlin’s food scene is the magnificent Markthalle Neun. Here you’ll find some of the city’s best food vendors and produce – don’t miss the traditional German meats and brilliant burgers at innovative butcher Kumpel & Keule. The iconic department store KaDeWe has a seriously impressive food court for more German delicacies: try traditional mettwurst and kohlwurst cooked at the sausage counter, served with potato salad and mustard. Take the local influence even further at fine-dining restaurant Nobelhart & Schmutzig, focusing on local ingredients so strictly that no lemons, pepper or olive oil reach the menu. For food inspired by a little further afield, head to Adana Grillhaus for Turkish barbecued meats, Madame Ngo for rich Vietnamese broths and Damaskus Konditorei for Syrian pastries. Where to stay: The pared-back Michelberger Hotel in the lively Friedrichshain district has a book-lined lobby, 24-hour bar and cafe, while its plant-forward restaurant champions organic ingredients, local producers and natural wines. Doubles from £95 per night, check availability at michelbergerhotel.com or booking.com Istanbul This Turkish city’s dazzling food scene spans worth-the-queue kebab shops to high-glam hotel restaurants. To eat like the locals, visit İskender Kuruluş for lunch and have iskender kebap, a rich dish of sliced doner meat with hot tomato sauce, pide, cold yogurt and foaming, melted butter. Pide are another Turkish speciality that can be found across the city – Haçapuri in Kadıköy is a bright and breezy spot with excellent versions. Discover more regional Turkish cuisine at Çiya Sofrasi, a low-key, cafe-like spot with a daily changing menu including meze, soups and mains such as perde pilaf (chicken pilaf wrapped in dough). For dinner, duck into atmospheric neighbourhood restaurant Aheste, where white tablecloths contrast with exposed brick walls. There's an a la carte menu or a meze tasting menu with dishes such as caramelised roast aubergine, leek patties with smoked yogurt and fishcakes topped with sage and crisp vine leaves. Where to stay: The Bank Hotel has plenty going for it, from its central location near the Galata Bridge and ferry hub to its relaxing interiors, comfortable rooms and the views from the serene Serica restaurant. Bookend your day with great food: the generous breakfast buffet heaves with simit, yogurt, fruit, honey, olives and cheese, or order a cooked dish, such menemen – eggs scrambled with tomato sauce and peppers. In the evenings, the Bank rooftop bar is prized for its view of the Bosphorus and city, which can be enjoyed with a cocktail or raki, making it a hotspot for locals. Doubles from £220, check availability at thebankhotelistanbul.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Palermo Palermo, Sicily’s largest city, is famous for its street food, but don’t miss the grilled fish, suckling pig cooked with pears, and breakfasts of brioche buns filled with gelato too. To get stuck into the famous street food, head to Mercato il Capo to soak up banter from the market vendors as you shop for capers from Pantelleria, bread baked in ovens stoked by olive branches, and snack on sfincione (thick pizza topped with tomato sauce, onions and a dusting of caciocavallo cheese). You can also queue up at Friggitoria Chiluzzo for Palermo’s renowned fried snacks. Its speciality is pane e panelle – square fritters of chickpea flour served in a seeded bun. Don't miss the traditional meat ragù and pea-stuffed arancini too. Indulge a sweet tooth at Gelateria La Delizia for classic gelato-filled brioche buns and go to Pasticceria Cappello for a wealth of Sicilian desserts, going beyond the classic ricotta-filled cannoli, cassata Siciliana and frutta martorana (marzipan pastries); don’t miss the settestrati, a mini-dessert of chocolate mousse, hazelnut cream and chocolate sponge. Where to stay: Hotel Porta Felice is in the historical centre of Palermo, an easy walk to the beach and the Botanical Gardens. It's set in an 18th-century palace, the rooms are simply designed and the generous buffet breakfast is served on a sunny rooftop terrace. The hotel also has a small spa complete with a hydromassage pool, sauna and Turkish bath. Doubles from £132, check availability at hotelportafelice.it, booking.com or expedia.co.uk Bilbao Futuristic architecture, renowned art galleries, elegant cobbled streets and a thriving food scene make this Basque city a great Spanish weekend destination. La Ribera is one of the largest undercover markets in Europe, dating back to the 14th century and now home to more than 100,000 square metres of food stalls. Pick up local produce if you're self-catering and look out for the stalls selling homemade croquetas (try the prawn and mushroom filling, from Lautxo on the second floor). Next, don't just visit the iconic Guggenheim museum for the art: the museum restaurant Bistró Guggenheim isn’t your typical gallery cafe. A favourite with locals and visitors alike, it focuses on Basque cuisine with a modern edge and has river views to enjoy. For traditional Basque fare, stop at Victor Montes, one of the oldest restaurants in the city, serving regional dishes such as bacalao al pil-pil (fried cod with herbs and garlic) or acorn-fed pork fillet. Gure Toki in the old quarter offers a more contemporary twist on traditional pintxos – think haute cuisine in miniature. Where to stay: Iturrienea Ostatua is a simple yet charming bed and breakfast located right in the centre of the Old Town. Inside, the largely modern decor is modest (simple white bedlinen, colourful quilted headboards, practical en-suite shower rooms) but homely. The nine bedrooms nod to the building’s history, with stone floors and wooden-beamed ceilings, and some have small private balconies. Breakfast is served in a country-style kitchen and includes local cheeses, charcuterie, sticky pastries and toast. Doubles from £95, check availability at iturrieneaostatua.com or booking.com Dublin You won't be short of things to do on a city break in Dublin. The compact city centre, divided in two by the River Liffey, is easily walkable when exploring, with the broader city made up of villages. A visit to the Jameson Distillery is a must for whiskey lovers, while beer fans should visit the Rascals Brewing taproom. Don't miss Pi for wood-fired pizzas featuring charcuterie and cheeses from local producers, and if you're feeling indecisive, head to Eatyard (open Thursday to Sunday) – the home of Dublin's street food scene, with a rotating roster of vendors including Box Burger, barbecue specialist Pitt Bros and toastie makers Cheesus. If you're visiting for a long weekend, Bastible serves Sunday roasts (as well as fabulous midweek tasting menus) in an innovative way with tasting dishes to share. Where to stay in Dublin: Stay in the heart of the action at The Dylan Hotel, just 750m from the live music, bars and restaurants of Grafton Street. Dublin's only five-star boutique hotel, The Dylan has a luxurious contemporary feel throughout. Enjoy a full Irish breakfast in hotel restaurant The Eddison, and sip cocktails in the Ruby Room bar. Doubles from £183 per night, check availability at dylan.ie, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com. Read our guide to the best restaurants in Dublin. Vienna Austria’s capital caters to both traditionalists and modernists, with vineyards for natural wine sipping and small plates there for the taking alongside the city’s famously elegant – and gloriously retro – schnitzel restaurants and cafes serving sachertorte. For traditional Viennese vibes, order an einspänner (coffee topped with whipped cream) at Café Sperl or linger over buchteln rolls and heartwarming stories at Café Vollpension. Vienna’s sausage culture has UNESCO cultural status, so swinging by a sausage stand is a must. We loved the käserkrainer (sliced and cheese-stuffed) served with plenty of spicy mustard at Wiener Würsteland. For dinner, book a table at &Flora, serving veggie-forward sharing plates such as a carrot and emmer ‘risotto’, XO beef tartare or crudo with spring peas. Where to stay: Hotel Gilbert is chic with sustainability is built into its ethos. Rooms are comfortable with air-con set to low and refillable toiletries to minimise plastic waste. Staff are fantastic with recommendations and the breakfast buffet is one of the best we’ve had – the pickled cauliflower salad is a must-try. The hotel offers a free glass of wine during the evenings, so make use of the comfortable foyer with plush sofas and vinyl you can pick and choose from. The hotel is conveniently located next to the MuseumsQuartier, so is perfect for sightseeing. Hotel Gilbert is also home to &Flora, the on-site restaurant, which offers a deal for a night’s stay if you can’t face the idea of the journey home after dinner. Doubles start from 139 euros, check availability at booking.com, hotel-gilbert.at or expedia.co.uk Ljubljana Chocolate box Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture, a river romantically spanned by pretty bridges and pedestrian- and bike-friendly policies make Slovenia’s capital city one of Europe’s most civilised. It’s also one of the continent’s most foodie destinations, with a position between the Alps and the Adriatic that lends the local cuisine both an excellent range of produce and a real variety of culinary influences. Every Friday, from March to October, Ljubljana’s Pogačar Square comes to life as the city’s Open Kitchen Market. It's a great entry point to Slovenian cuisine, with a festival atmosphere beneath the shadows of the green-domed Ljubljana Cathedral, and all manner of vendors, from farms to gourmet restaurants. As you explore the city, stop for coffee at Črno Zrno, baked goods at Pekarna Osem and popular gelato spot Vigò for ice cream. Quench a thirst at Suklje with its vaulted ceilings, riverside terrace and 300-strong wine list (2oo from Slovenia alone), or contemporary pub Lubjah has 16 beers on tap and more than 130 bottles from around the world, if beer is your preferred drink. For dinner, book in advance at upmarket bistro Monstera, where the five-course tasting menu elegantly showcases Slovenia’s produce. Where to stay: Vander Urbani Resort is a secluded hotel in the heart of Ljubljana's city centre. Modern bedrooms are designed in neutral tones and the generous breakfast buffet includes freshly made crepes, eggs and charcuterie platters. The highlight of the hotel is the roof terrace complete with a pool and views of the river. Doubles from £180, check availability at vanderhotel.com or booking.com Bologna Local markets, mortadella pizza and 'tree bark' chocolate make this northern Italian city a foodie hotspot. A beautifully converted market pavilion is home to Mercato di Mezzo, a hot spot at the heart of Bologna’s historic open-air food market. Here there are a dozen stalls serving local snacks. Head upstairs for the main event, a ricotta and mortadella pizza. For authentic Bolognese cuisine, head to tiny Trattoria Serghe. Inside the cosy wood-panelled interior, choose from specialities like tagliatelle al ragù, stuffed courgettes with meatballs and sautéed chicory. Sweet-toothed visitors should know that Italy’s first solid chocolate, the crinkly Scorza, which translates as ‘tree bark’, was made in 1832 by Bologna-based Majani. Another longstanding favourite worth stocking up on is the Fiat – a smooth, nutty flavoured chocolate commissioned in 1911 to mark the launch of the Fiat Tipo 4. Where to stay: family-run Hotel Touring has a great central location near the buzzy Piazza Maggiore and Palazzo Re Enzo. Rooms are generously sized plus some have balconies, and a rooftop terrace has stunning views over the heart of the city. Doubles from £155, check availability at hoteltouring.it or booking.com More travel guides Best Morocco food trips 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
8 lesser-known Italian islands for a foodie trip
Swap Sicily and Sardinia for some lesser-known gems and a truly memorable Italian island holiday away from the crowds
Whether you’re searching for some late-summer sunshine or are one of those enviably organised people who’s already looking ahead to next year, a week on an Italian island is hard to beat. And while Sicily, Capri and Sardinia are popular for good reason, sometimes the best trips are the less obvious ones. Boats, beaches and bowls of pasta… Here are some of our favourite isles for a foodie escape. 8 lesser-known Italian islands to visit Ponza Ponza is the ultimate Roman getaway. A couple of hours from the capital by train and ferry, it’s the perfect island to tack onto a long weekend in the Eternal City. There are three ways to get around small but mighty Ponza: scooter, e-bike and boat. Water taxis will get you to all the major beaches, but we loved hiring a bike and zipping up and down the hills to get to the best, smaller beaches such as Cala Gaetano and La Caletta. It’s also the ultimate way to work up an appetite – La Marina at Cala Feola beach is one of the best on the island. Book in advance and you might snag one of the tables on the rocks. It’s just the place to enjoy bottarga pasta while the waves lap at the restaurant. In the main town, some of the best dining spots are Restaurant EEA, Oresteria and Lanterna da Silverio. That said, one of our favourite meals was on board a five-hour boat tour, which took us around the island and over to neighbouring Palmarola. There are no hotels here, but O’Francese is the island’s one (cash-only) restaurant, right on the sand. We saved our stomachs for the captain-made tuna and tomato pasta back on the boat, which we ate while bobbing about in the sea. Where to stay: Villa Laetitia is a gorgeous boutique hotel owned by one of the Fendi sisters. Overlooking the main port (every bedroom has a sea view), this is a sumptuous boutique option, complete with tiled floors, striking beds and lovely design details, such as branded crockery and pretty linen curtains. Pantelleria One thing to know about Pantelleria: there will be capers. A small volcanic island that’s closer to Tunisia than it is to Sicily, its closest neighbour, water here is precious. The upside of this are some perfect growing conditions for capers. There’s a whole museum dedicated to them, they’re served in everything from seafood pasta to chocolate and caper gelato (yes, really) and they’re also the butt of a joke in Luca Guadagnino’s excellent film A Bigger Splash, which is set on Pantelleria. There’s much more to the island than that, of course. There’s the pancake-flat Lake of Venus, where you can bathe and cover yourself in the shore’s mineral-rich mud. There’s a great ceramics scene (look for De Simone) and plenty of amazing walks (the trek up to Montagna Grande is worth it for the views, and you break it up with a spell in the Grotta di Benikula – a natural cave sauna). Pantelleria’s beaches span from natural thermal pools to rocky bays with umbrellas and sunbeds. And the food is fantastic – some of our favourite restaurants included Il Principe e Il Pirata (The Princess & The Pirate), La Nicchia and I Giardini dei Rodo, with its pretty, lantern-filled courtyard. You can get a ferry here from Sicily or for a standalone holiday there are direct flights from Milan and Rome. Where to stay: Tenuta Borgia is the striking, design-focused villa where A Bigger Splash is set. If you want to access the famous swimming pool, you’ll need to book exclusive use, but we loved our stay in the smaller two-bedroom dammuso, which had a huge terrace overlooking the sea and a smaller pool. Best of all, it’s completely private (you’ll be given the exact address moments before arriving), so it feels like a true escape. Ischia Part of the region of Campania, Ischia is a short ferry ride away from Naples. Known as the ‘green island’, it’s a place of natural beauty and hot springs. If you like hiking, this is the one for you: Mount Epomeo is the island’s highest point and offers incredible views, and there’s another beautiful walk up to Madonna di Zaro, a site of pilgrimage. For something gentler, Sant’Angelo is an utterly charming pedestrian-only village. A former fishing port, its distinctive colourful houses line the seafront and make for postcard-perfect photos. For the best experience of those famous hot springs, head to Le Fumarole beach, which has volcanic steam vents. Elsewhere, Maronti beach is one of the largest stretches of sand on the island. Given its proximity to Naples, Ischia’s food takes on a Neapolitan flair. For an authentic trattoria experience, book into Peppina di Renato – which dates to 1979 – for potato and gorgonzola pizza, panzanella salad and ‘pomodoro piccante’ rigatoni. And you can’t come here without trying the local dish, a rabbit stew called coniglio all’Ischitana. Some of the best is served at Trattoria Il Focolare. Where to stay: Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa is part of the same group as Il Pellicano in Tuscany and La Posta Vecchia near Rome. As at Il Pellicano, the famed hotel that’s ruled Italian hospitality since the 1970s, you can expect relaxed yet impeccable service, bold design and a gorgeous spa. Procida Like Ischia, Procida is a Phlegraean island – and we suggest a double header. You might recognise Procida as the backdrop to the Matt Damon and Jude Law adaptation of The Talented Mr Ripley. Either way, if you thought Ischia’s Sant’Angelo was pretty, you’ll be struck by the cobbled village of Coricella, whose port is dominated by eye-catching houses and churches (some of these look a little lived-in, but that all adds to the charm). One of the harbourside restaurants, La Locanda del Postino, was also in the film and still makes an impact today, serving the likes of local prawns, tuna tartare and marinated anchovies. Girone in Marina Chiaolella is another top spot, and is the best place to try the local delicacy of ricci di mare (sea urchin). As the entire island is just four square kilometres, you won’t need a car. Instead, visitors tend to walk from village to village and beach to beach, working up an appetite for their afternoon gelato. One of the best beaches is Chiaia, which has a beach club as well as public areas for swimming and sunbathing. Where to stay: Given its size, there isn’t a huge amount of choice on Procida. La Suite Hotel is one of the best on the island. Guests can dine among olive trees, there’s a pool to dip into and Il Pozzo Vecchio black-sand beach is a 10-minute walk away. Elba Picturesque Elba is in the Tyrrhenian Sea and the largest of the Tuscan archipelago. Once famous for harbouring Napolean during his exile in the 1800s, it’s known today for its beautiful sandy beaches, clear waters and mountainous terrain. These clear waters have made it a hotbed for snorkelling and diving, but anyone wanting to enjoy the waters even just for swimming will love the cape of Sant’Andrea, a bay with crystal-blue waters, golden sand, small shells and a series of inlets that have created natural swimming pools. The bay’s other feature are its dramatic granite rock formations rising from the sea. On the food front, expect classic Tuscan dishes with an island twist. Publius in Poggio offers the likes of braised tuna in chianti wine with polenta or cocoa ravioli filled with cinghiale (wild boar ragu) and a parmesan sauce, while Osteria del Noce in the old hilltop village of Marciana serves grilled octopus by candlelight. Elba’s not the easiest place to get to – from the UK you’ll need to fly to Pisa, get a bus to Piombino, then a ferry over to the island – but the final destination is worth the journey. Where to stay: For one of the best views on Elba, book one of the balcony suites at Hotel Ilio. These rooms are just a few metres away from the dramatic Sant’Andrea coastline. The suite’s private terrace is a lovely spot to watch sunrise and sunset on the island. Salina Part of the Sicilian archipelago, Salina is the second-largest Aeolian island and an ideal add-on if you’re headed to Sicily (it’s a two-and-a-half-hour ferry away). Recognisable for its twin volcanic peaks, Salina, like Pantelleria, is famed for its capers, but also for its olives, figs, citrus and Sorsi di Malvasia sweet wine. These ingredients define many of the local delicacies: ‘u pani cunzatu is a slice of bread topped with caper pesto, almonds, grilled aubergines, caperberries, tomato, mint and ricotta, which is baked in the oven. Fig and almond granitas are a daily must during the hot summers. Nni Lausta is one of our favourite spots to soak up the flavours of Salina – if it’s not too hot, grab a table on the buzzy terrace. A famously verdant isle, Salina’s highlights are best taken in from a boat. As you make your way around, you’ll get to admire Fossa delle Felci, a towering old volcano, the pretty bay of Semaforo di Pollara, and Punta Lingua, a lighthouse on the southernmost tip of the island. Where to stay: Owned by the Caruso family, Hotel Signum is resplendent in limestone walls and warm Aeolian colours. With terraces looking over to neighbouring Panarea and Stromboli, the hotel is also home to a lovely spa and Signum, which holds a Michelin Green star for sustainability. Lipari Another Aeolian island that’s worth a stay in its own right is Lipari (to get there, hop on a ferry from Sicily or Naples). The largest of this cluster of islands, Lipari is a UNESCO World Heritage site and there is real history here. Chiostro de Normanni is part of the first Benedictine monastery built in Sicily, while the imposing castle of Lipari is a neolithic wonder with a great museum. For the best views – and sunsets – head to Quattrocchi (‘four eyes’), where huge cliffs plunge into the water, sea stacks rise from beneath the waves and visitors can gaze across to the other islands. Two of our favourite restaurants are Trattoria del Vicolo and Filippino. The former serves traditional Aeolian dishes such as busiate pasta with swordfish, aubergine and mint or risotto with pumpkin flowers and clams. Filippino has an atmospheric location on the main town square. Over 100 years old, it’s a heritage spot serving modern interpretations of classic rustic dishes – think cuttlefish black risotto with Volcano ricotta foam, followed by a pink white chocolate foam. Where to stay: <a href="https://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-100565798-11795693?sid=olivemagazine-272170&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fhotel%2Fit%2Fla-settima-luna.en-gb.html%3Faid%3D356980%26label%3Dgog235jc-10CAsocUIPbGEtc2V0dGltYS1sdW5hSAlYA2hQiAEBmAEzuAEHyAEP2AED6AEB-AEBiAIBqAIBuAKA4LXGBsACAdICJDM3YzFjYzAxLTdmNTktNGM2ZC05MWY1LWU5YWVlMDNkNmU5YdgCAeACAQ%26sid%3D591c30c5005e4473cb6db7551ba9daea%26all_sr_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26checkin%3D2025-09-28%26checkout%3D2025-09-29%26dest_id%3D-113006%26dest_type%3Dcity%26dist%3D0%26group_adults%3D2%26group_children%3D0%26hapos%3D1%26highlighted_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26hpos%3D1%26matching_block_id%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26no_rooms%3D1%26req_adults%3D2%26req_children%3D0%26room1%3DA%252CA%26sb_price_type%3Dtotal%26sr_order%3Dpopularity%26sr_pri_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0__15400%26srepoch%3D1758294021%26srpvid%3Dfaf36980d7b20259%26type%3Dtotal%26ucfs%3D1%26" rel="sponsored" target="_blank">La Settima Luna is 50m from the beach, and makes the most of its location with a terrace and pool that offers panoramic views of the water below. Modern and minimalist, the hotel has white-washed walls inside and out, adding to the Mediterranean feel. Vulcano As its name suggests, Vulcano is one of the most volcanic islands in Italy. It’s a raw and rugged place where black-sand beaches meet deep-blue seas. Many of the attractions around Vulcano centre around this volcanic activity: some of the best ways to immerse yourself in island life are hiking to its ancient ‘Grand’ crater (worth it for the view alone) and soaking in the thermal mud baths of Laghetto dei Fanghi (you’ll soon get used to the island’s sulphurous smell). There are also lots of fun ways to get around: bikes, kayaks, quads and Mini-Mokes are all available for hire. One of the best restaurants on the island is Il Cappero (which, you guessed it, means ‘the caper’). Earlier this year, it earned Michelin and Green stars for its simple but expertly executed dishes, which tend to only feature two ingredients. More Michelin-worthy food can be found at I Tenerumi, which is similar in style to Il Cappero, but fully vegetarian. The easiest way to get to Vulcano is to take a flight to Catania or Palermo on Sicily, then transfer to Milazzo for a one-hour ferry to the island. Where to stay: Therasia Resort is perched above the sea. It’s a great example of Aeolian architecture, with columns, reed roofing and arches facing the water. All the bedrooms use natural materials – such as lava stone, terracotta, cedar and olive wood – that add a sense of earthy richness to a stay. The resort is also home to an incredible spa, with natural pools and treatments that maximise the island’s minerality. More travel inspiration Best Italian hotels for food lovers to visit Best European mountain escapes Best Mediterranean islands for foodies 5 coolcations ideas for food lovers 10 UK and European hotels with Michelin-starred restaurants 10 unique walking holidays for food lovers 11 UNESCO cities of gastronomy to visit 12 foodies share the European holiday destinations you need to know
As temperatures soar, seek out a coolcation instead
Summer is much-loved for good reason – that ‘holiday’ feeling, long lazy days by the beach, the promise of a cold beer, cocktail or mocktail at the end of a warm day, balmy nights where there’s no need for a jacket ‘just in case’. But as climate change wreaks havoc on global temperatures, many regions are now getting excessively hot in the traditional summer season, and continuing to experience warm ‘summer’ temperatures well into September, October and even November. Enter the coolcation. If you switch on your USB fan as soon as the mercury passes 25˚C (tops), your European breaks may need a change of direction; think mountains, lakes and forests. From the beaches of a Scottish peninsula to the mountains of Italy, these are some of our favourite 'coolcation' locations to discover. For more travel inspiration, check out 10 unmissable European road trips for food lovers and 8 breathtaking train journeys across the world. Five coolcation travel ideas The Kintyre Peninsula, west of Glasgow, Scotland One of Scotland’s prettiest peninsulas, Kintyre on the west coast is a place of wide, white-sand beaches, eye-popping views and comfortable autumnal temperatures. For road-trippers, the Kintyre 66 (K66) winds through all six of Kintyre’s regions including Campbeltown, one of Argyll’s largest towns. Walkers have the long-distance Kintyre Way, castle ruins aplenty, and scenic excursions to Argyll’s islands including the white-sand beaches of the Isle of Gigha, the most southerly of the Hebridean islands. Surrounded by water (the Atlantic, Kilbrannan Sound, West Loch Tarbert and Loch Fyne), this is a land of fishing towns and harbours – little wonder it’s a seafood paradise. There’s an actual Seafood Trail on Kintyre and Gigha which takes in some of the best spots around the region’s bays, coves and islands for freshly caught produce. If self-catering, Prentice Seafood is a must for fresh crabs, clams, scallops and more, while neighbouring Skipness has the wonderful Skipness Castle Seafood Cabin for seafood platters and fresh mussels. On Gigha, the highlight is the Boathouse Café Bar at Ardminish Bay for island-reared halibut and Gigha oysters. And of course, there’s whisky. Campbeltown was once the ‘whisky capital of the world’ with 34 distilleries; now there are three, but an increasing number of gin distilleries like Kintyre Gin Distillery at Torrisdale near Campbeltown make a good stop for a tasting and tour. Check out our guide to the best Scottish whisky distilleries to discover more. Egilsstaðir, East Iceland Iceland always has a reason for a season, be it midnight sun, northern lights (Aurora Borealis) or winter wonderland vibes. For a twist on Reykjavik, head to East Iceland. Its largest town Egilsstaðir is a direct flight from the capital and a good base for hikers, bikers and birdwatchers to explore the East Fjords and Vatnajökull National Park post-summer. The region prides itself on hyper-local food, including Icelandic lamb, wild mushrooms and dairy products such as the yogurt-like skyr, much loved by Icelanders and a common feature at breakfast with fresh berries and local honey. A popular Egilsstaðir spot is Nielsen Restaurant, known for its refreshing takes on traditional ingredients such as reindeer tataki and reindeer terrine – co-owner Kari was a former head chef at Iceland’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Dill, in Reykjavík. At the family-run Lake Hotel (the town’s oldest) on Lake Lagarfljót, emphasis is again on local; Arctic char, lobster, skyr, wild berries, and much of it from their own farm or nearby Vallanes Farm, Iceland’s first organic farm. For a more remote adventure, head to the Wilderness Centre, about 30 miles/50 kilometres southwest of town, for Icelandic horse-riding, jeep adventures and hikes. The owners have recreated traditional farm buildings for accommodation, revamped a smoke hut to smoke meat, and serve meals created from passed-down family recipes using local produce such as lamb and rhubarb grown on their fields. Trentino-Alto Adige, northern Italy In the Dolomites is the self-governing border province of Trentino-Alto Adige (or Trentino-South Tyrol) where residents typically speak Italian, German and the Ladin dialect. It’s a sublime region for hiking in summer and autumn before the winter sports/ski season begins, and foodwise, it’s an intriguing fusion of Italian, Austrian, Mediterranean and Alpine. Think hearty meaty stews (Germanic) with polenta (Italian), broths with dumplings; spinach and cheese-flavoured strangolapreti and bread dumplings, canederli. Pasta is, of course, always on the menu from spätzle, fresh egg pasta, which has Germanic roots, to casunziei, beetroot-filled ravioli with poppy seeds, and schlutzkrapfen, half-moon pasta parcels of spinach and ricotta. Speck, a popular Italian salumi, is a Trentino favourite, and the region produces 200+ cheeses; try Alta Badia, reminiscent of Swiss Gruyere, and fruity Vinschger. Trentino is also known for its lake fish; try the many spots on Caldonazzo and Levico lakes, a half-hour drive from Trento. Autumn sees the wine harvest; South Tyrol is home to three indigenous grape varietals with 99% of wines enjoying DOC classification. Take an e-bike to explore the Giro del Vino 50, a 55km circuit with 50 wineries and distilleries along the route. Helsinki, Finland As the midnight sun slowly sets, autumn becomes a beautiful time of year to visit the Finnish capital. It’s ‘ruska’, when the leaves change colour, and the city is a sea of fiery golds, reds and yellow. And just outside the city, Nuuksio National Park is perfect for hiking and foraging for wild herbs, mushrooms and bilberries, and for enjoying the colours of ruska. A word of warning: while everyone has the right to forage, guided tours are recommended if you’re planning on mushroom-picking… Try classic dishes like creamy Finnish salmon soup with dark rye bread, marinated herring and river fish, poronkäristys which is stewed venison with mash and berries, and lihapullat, meatballs from ground pork, beer or even elk. Autumn also welcomes the 300-year-old Helsinki Baltic Herring Market, an atmospheric event that captures the country’s maritime heritage. At Natura restaurant in the city centre, the focus is on seasonality, ethically produced and locally sourced produce, sometimes from their own farm, with good vegan and vegetarian options. Think truffle pancakes with mushrooms, and roasted trout from Kotka on the east coast. For a post-walk coffee, Helsinki has no shortage of inviting cafés and bakeries. Try Tintin The Café for its flaky almond croissants, cinnamon buns and homemade sourdough – you can also book a breadmaking workshop to learn the secrets yourself. Bourgogne-Franche Comté, France In eastern France, bordering Switzerland and the Jura mountains, the eastern Franche Comté region is something of a pilgrimage for lovers of nutty Comté cheese. It pairs particularly well with a Jura wine or melted in a fondue or raclette in a cooler climate that feels quite Alpine. But the giant cheese wheels are just one gourmet attraction of this under-visited, lesser-known part of France where the deep forests and valleys are ideal for hiking and biking. There’s fresh cherry jam from the orchards in Fougerolles, Morbier cheese with its ash-grey line, smoky, garlic and cumin-flavoured saucisse de Montbéliard, the oldest sausage in France (first recorded in the 14th century), and Bresi, a smoked salt beef made in Franche Comté since the Middle Ages. The region even has a protected signature chicken dish, poulet de Bresse. Wine-wise, try the golden ‘vin de paille’ (‘straw wine’) and ‘yellow wine’, aged in the barrel with yeast; alternatively, trace the Franco-Swiss Absinthe Trail past fields of herbs and smuggling locations. The region’s pine forests and meadows are a playground for bees, resulting in fragrant pine and acacia honey. In the picturesque old town of Besançon, a local favourite is the unpretentious Le 76 which serves classic French dishes with a gentle twist; salmon fillet in yellow wine, vol-au-vent with wild mushrooms. You can pick up local produce from cheese to jams in Besançon’s farmers’ market on Place de la Révolution or browse the more upscale stalls inside the Musee de Beaux Art. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2025/08/GettyImages-2186326331-d7734a5.jpg" width="726" height="481" alt="Besancon, France, July 10, 2024: people walking pedestrian street Grande Rue in sunny day in Besancon city centre, tourists stroll shopping street with stores and shops in Besançon old town" title="people walking pedestrian street Grande Rue in sunny day in Besancon city centre, tourists stroll shopping street with stores and shops in Besançon old town" /> More travel inspiration Best city breaks in the UK Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish food trips 12 small towns across the UK every foodie should visit The UK's best pubs with rooms UK boutique hotels for food lovers 10 exciting UK city breaks for food lovers Best restaurants with rooms UK spa hotels for food lovers Best romantic UK hotels Best seaside staycations Best country hotels
Why autumn is the best time to visit these typical summer destinations
Skip the heatwaves and crowds, and discover a whole new side to some of Europe's most-popular summer destinations by visiting in autumn instead
If you’ve holidayed during the height of summer and returned to that same place off-season, you’ll know why it feels special. Temperatures drop just enough to feel comfortable, queues lessen and fewer crowds create a different energy. And, travelling during the shoulder season has never been more pertinent: as overtourism threatens the infrastructure of many popular holiday spots, visiting off-peak is one way to alleviate the strain and have a better time. As someone who’s visited some of Europe's most-popular summer destinations later in the year, I can attest that you see the place come into its own as locals breathe easy after the summer rush. For foodies, autumn in Europe is seasonal produce bonanza. If summer means salads, ice creams and cold beers, autumn is wild mushrooms, figs, chestnuts – and the appetite to go with it. For more travel inspiration perfect for autumn, check out 10 unmissable European roadtrips for food lovers and the best autumn breaks for food lovers. 5 typical summer destinations to visit in autumn Malaga, Costa del Sol, Spain Better known as the gateway to the resorts of the Costa del Sol, Malaga Airport actually has its own train station that can quickly connect you to its namesake city. This compact coastal town is one of Spain’s most underrated, packed with cobbled streets, family-run restaurants, cosy tapas bars and both a fine and street art scene – not to mention its proximity to the beach and cooler, inland mountain towns like Mijas and Ronda. Without the summer crowds and heat, it’s infinitely more pleasant to walk along the pier Muelle Uno, cycle to the coast or enjoy the views from Gibralfaro Castle and Malaga’s many rooftop terraces and bars. Like many Spanish cities, Malaga has plenty of art to enjoy at the world-class Picasso and Carmen Thyssen museums. It’s also home to Hamman al Andalus, an impressive Moroccan-style hammam with baths and treatments. In October, the aroma of roasted chestnuts will surround you as you explore the city, as streetside vendors smoke this seasonal highlight. Autumn is also a fruit fest, with custard apples, persimmon and fresh figs available. Try torta de higo – fig cake with a slice of Spanish cheese. For the freshest autumnal produce, you can’t beat Malaga’s Atarazanas market, open Monday to Saturday, for its stalls, kiosks and handful of informal bars and restaurants. A few steps away outside is Palodú restaurant, which serves two seasonal tasting menus; prop up at the counter to watch the chefs in action as you feast. Top tip: If you’re a golfer, autumn is the time to visit. Near-perfect temperatures also make it the optimum time for hiking, biking and horse-riding in Sierra de las Nieves national park. Lake Como, northern Italy Summer by the lake sounds good in theory: cooler than the beach, mountain views and pebbly lakeside shores eliminating sandy sweaty stickiness. But, northern Italy’s lakes can still reach high temperatures. That’s why autumn – and even winter – can be a much better bet. It’s still warm, the scenery transforms to reddish-gold hues and, if it rains, the lakes take on a wonderfully misty atmosphere. Towns like Varenna and Bellagio can be heaving in the summer, and understandably so – Bellagio is one of Como’s prettiest spots. But once the crowds have left, it’s quieter and calmer, and wandering the streets or eating dinner on the waterfront is more joy than jostle. Sights such as Villa Balbianello, known for its striking gardens and architecture, are free of queues – it’s no wonder this spectacular spot has hosted so many celebrity weddings and shoots for films. Sitting in Italy’s northern Lombardy region, seasonal produce during autumn includes local fish, mushrooms and chestnuts. As the evenings cool, it’s a great time of year to tuck into dishes such as polenta with wild mushrooms, cinghiale (braised wild boar) or pumpkin ravioli with aromatic sage. After an aperitivo on Bellagio’s lakefront, head up into the hills to Ristorante La Madonnina di Barni – its mountain view sets a cosy spot for a seasonal dinner, such as venison stew or porcini mushroom risotto. October is also chestnut season; ask locals about the nearest castagnata, the chestnut festivals that take place across Italy. Top tip: Ferries, boats and water taxis are a great way to move between lakeside towns; itineraries often change in autumn, so check timings. Dress warmly for cooler mornings and evenings. Athens, Greece In 2024, the Greek capital not only hit record tourist numbers, but its hottest temperatures, too. Autumn is a chance to beat both highs. November can be heavenly here, and queues for popular sights such as the Acropolis and Parthenon are a lot more manageable, while walking through the neighbourhoods of Plaka, below the Acropolis, and Anafiotika, on the slopes of the Acropolis, feel like less of a ‘tourist route’. While Greek food favourites are available year-round – such as slow-cooked lamb kleftiko or flaky spinach-and-cheese spanakopita – autumn is an opportunity to try seasonal dishes like fasolada (white bean soup) and spetzofai (sausage and pepper stew). Athens’s Central Municipal Market is a top spot to browse or pick up food gifts, or stop for an ouzo and mezedes (snacks) at Karayiannis in the fish market section. The courtyards of Athens neighbourhoods Exarhia and Petralona lend themselves to spontaneously stopping by a bar or restaurant, while the Pangrati and Kolonaki neighbourhoods are great for streetside dining. A longstanding favourite is Dexameni, with its leafy setting in Kolonaki: great prices and simple food done well, like halloumi with fig marmalade and beef patties with basil and almonds. Top tip: The Athens Riviera is just 12 miles (20 kilometres) south if you want to feast on fresh fish and seafood by the sea. And, if you love a vineyard, the wineries of the Mesogaia valley are 19 miles (30 kilometres) south-west, including Vasilis Papagiannakos, Greece’s first bioclimatic winery, and the family-run Gikas Winery. The Turkish Riviera, Türkiye Known as the Turkish Riviera or Turquoise Coast, this 600-mile (965 kilometres) coastline in southwestern Türkiye (across the provinces of Antalya, Muğla and Aydın) stretches along the Aegean and Mediterranean seas. Deservedly popular for its resorts, activities and lively beach towns, it’s also busy (and hot) in the height of summer. A drop in temperature as autumn rolls in is great for walkers, who can hike through pine forest along parts of the Lycian Way (a 320-mile trail between Antalya and Fethiye). On the beaches, it’s still warm and calm enough to go waterskiing, paragliding and bodyboarding. Booking a gulet (traditional schooner) cruise is recommended for a serene day at sea. Popular towns like Bodrum, Kalkan, Marmis, Fethiye and Ölüdeniz become easier to navigate, where local markets are a food-lover’s paradise. Kaş is a dream to explore, with its boutique stores and atmosphere cafés, or head to UNESCO World Heritage site Pamukkale’s natural spa, with its terraced pools of thermal waters. Mushrooms and chestnuts are a regular autumnal feature, but pumpkin is Türkiye’s seasonal highlight, from pumpkin soup to pumpkin desserts served with tahini drizzle or a sprinkling of walnuts. Another is pomegranate – not just the fruit, but pomegranate molasses and pomegranate seeds, too. Try kisir, a bulgur wheat salad topped with one or both. A popular spot with locals and return visitors is one of Antalya’s oldest restaurants: 7 Mehmet. Located inland, its third-generation chef and owner continues to serve family recipes – some unchanged since the restaurant opened in 1937, others with a twist, such as rice pilaf with pineapple and bergamot. Top tip: Different towns have their own market days. As markets are often just once a week, find out before or early in your holiday which market is the best/closest/most convenient for you. Cyprus Even in November, it’s warm enough for a dip in the sea if you head as far south as Cyprus – not to mention the luxury of uncrowded beaches, quieter hotels, comfortable temperatures and a price drop, too. In the west-coast town of Paphos, explore the UNESCO-listed Tombs of the Kings, enjoy the views from Ancient Kourion’s cliffside Greco-Roman theatre, or soak up the seafront vibe of Larnaca. Inland, the pretty village of Lefkara, known for its lace-making heritage (and located in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains), can get overrun in the peak period, but as the season changes, it becomes a lot more palatable. Visitors can also book free craft workshops, choosing between traditional weaving, wood carving or bread- and halloumi-making. Autumn, of course, is harvest time. There’s the nine-day Limassol Wine Festival from the end of September, which celebrates the grape harvest and local wine. But, if you miss it, Cyprus has numerous vineyards where you can sample local wines alongside plates of homemade halloumi. There’s also the Commandaria Wine Route, which passes through 14 villages and includes wineries that produce the island’s ancient sweet dessert wine. Other seasonal produce includes olives, pomegranates, mushrooms and hawthorn (yellow and red berries used for hawthorn jam). Head into the Troodos for feasts in family-run restaurants – weekends are especially atmospheric, as local families and groups of friends enjoy long lunches on open-air terraces. Top tip: For UK drivers, Cyprus is one of the few countries in the world that also drives on the left. And, while you don’t need a car, it’s handy if you want to explore the island or village-hop in the mountains. More travel guides The best health and wellness retreats for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known cities 5 destinations at the cutting edge of sleep tourism Best romantic hotels Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best European city breaks 10 unique walking holidays for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations
10 unmissable European road trips for food lovers
From alpine cheese trails to sun-drenched seafood routes, these delicious drives serve up the best of Europe's culinary landscapes…
There’s nothing quite like hitting the road for a few days away, especially if you’re going in search of good food. Pack your appetite and hop into the car for a selection of flavour-filled journeys. Whether you want to scoff snails in Burgundy, or feast on fresh fish in the Pelopponese, here are the 10 best places in Europe to find the most unforgettable meals via wheels…. For more memorable journeys, check out our guide to 8 breathtaking train journeys across the world and the best European city breaks by train. Plus, check out 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting for a gourmet getaway. 10 best European road trips for food lovers UK: Southwest 660 Starts: Poole, Dorset Ends: Penzance, Cornwall This scenic, 660-mile route around England’s south-west peninsula specifically focuses on the coasts of Dorset, Devon, Cornwall and Somerset. While we’re not suggesting you do it all in one go, pick a few key destinations and plan your journey around some of the best foodie locations in the UK. Set off from Poole, one of England’s prettiest seaside towns, after fuelling up for the drive at the Custom House Cafe on the harbour (for anything from a toasted tea cake to asparagus Florentine) and head to Lyme Regis. Here, in the ‘Pearl of Dorset’ on the Jurassic Coast, you can tuck into tasty fish and seafood at Rockfish, overlooking the bay; all ingredients are local and sustainably sourced, such as scallops, Dover sole, gurnard and hake. Next, motor on to Lympstone, a charming East Devon village set by the River Exe. Treat yourself to a decadent meal at Lympstone Manor, overseen by one of Britain’s most renowned chefs, Michael Caines. The fine dining restaurant has a variety of menus where you’ll find dishes from Cornish turbot to lobster salad and roasted pigeon. Off to Padstow, you have the choice between two other celebrated restaurants: Rick Stein’s The Seafood or Paul Ainsworth’s No. 6. Stein celebrates 50 years of his opening in Padstow in 2025, and the current menu features classic dishes from the past five decades, from Dorset oysters to sea bass with beurre blanc and Indonesian seafood curry. At No 6, the menu is a little more experimental, with dishes such as beetroot with smoked eel or veal sweetbreads. End your road trip in stunning Penzance, legendary home of pirates, known for its artistic influences and quirky architecture. Settle in for a classic cream tea at a cosy cafe like the Honey Pot (you can even have a savoury tea) or sink a pint of local cider at the historic Admiral Benbow inn, decorated with a fascinating collection of shipwreck artefacts from the past 400 years. France: Burgundy Starts: Dijon Ends: Beaune The Burgundy region is famed for great food and wine, and is home to some of France’s most classic dishes, such as boeuf bourgignon, coq au vin and duck confit. Start a road trip in the elegant capital of the region, Dijon, and try local delicacies such as oeufs en meurette – eggs poached in red wine sauce – at renowned gastronomic restaurant, Meurette et Persille. Stock up on historic mustard brands such as Maille, Grey Poupon or Le Moutarderie Fallot – Dijon has been producing this spicy condiment since the Middle Ages. Then it’s on to the small town of Nuits-St-Georges, best known for Pinot Noir wines. Plan a visit to Domaine de l’Arlot, a biodynamic winery offering guided tastings and vineyard tours, or Maison Moillard, a historic house which also produces cremant. Head to nearby Pommard, synonymous with full-bodied reds – stop by Château de Pommard, founded in 1726, for a wine-tasting session coupled with a deep dive into the local terroir. End the trip in Beaune, and visit Hélice, L'Escargotier Beaunois to learn about how the local snails are prepared and cooked, and sample them too. Enjoy a range of the best local dishes at the restaurant, Au Coq Bleu, and finish with a plate of regional cheeses, including the pungent Epoisses Berthaut, nutty Abbaye de Citeaux and creamy Délice de Bourgogne. Greece: Peloponnese Starts: Kalamata Ends: Nafplion This scenic route through the Peloponnese isn’t strictly linear, but it’s packed with strong Mediterranean flavours and rich culinary traditions that make it worth the detours. Begin in the coastal town of Kalamata, famous for its plump, dark olives – try them fresh at the local farmer’s market (known as the Agora) or paired with mavrodafni, a sweet, fortified regional wine. Tuck into hortopita (pie with greens and feta) and stifado (meat stew) at Kardamo, or fresh, grilled fish and seafood, cuttlefish risotto or steamed mussels at Notias. Next, head south to the rugged Mani Peninsula and stop in the stone village of Areopoli, where the food is as unpretentious as the landscape. Sample wild greens, sfela – a salty, brined sheep’s cheese often served grilled – and honey sourced from Mani’s aromatic mountain wildflowers. Drop into friendly, family-run Taverna Vaggelis for lunch, which specialises in barbecued meat, or the cosy To Mavromichaliko, where you’ll find dishes such as stamnato, beef stew cooked in a clay pot. Continue to Monemvasia, a fortified medieval town clinging to a rock off the coast. Dine inside the castle walls at Chrisovoulo, where seafood and local specialties like skioufitha pasta are served with a glass of malvasia wine. End your journey in charming Nafplio, a seafront town full of neoclassical architecture and culinary charm. Try kreatopita (meat pie), honey-laced desserts and wines from the nearby Nemea region. Aiolos Tavern offers simple Greek classics, from moussaka to fava bean purée, made with fresh local produce, while Omorfo Tavernaki delivers a more rustic, deeply traditional experience. Discover more inspiration with our picks of the best Greek food trips, from must-visit islands to mainland hotspots. Spain: Basque country to La Rioja Starts: San Sebastian Ends: Logroño From pintxos to Tempranillo, this lovely route serves up the best of northern Spain’s bold, wine-soaked flavours. Begin in San Sebastián, the gastronomic capital of the Basque Country. Snack your way through the Old Town with a pintxos crawl along Calle 31 de Agosto – don’t miss txangurro (spider crab), gilda (skewers of anchovy, olive and pickled guindilla pepper) or talo con chistorra (a corn flatbread wrapped around sizzling sausage). Make sure you order a glass of crisp, sparkling txakoli wine, if only to see how the waiters pour it from a great height. For a refined – but expensive – take, book a table at Arzak or Akelarre, both Michelin-starred temples to avant-garde Basque cuisine. Next stop is Bilbao, where modern culture meets culinary tradition. Tuck into bacalao al pil-pil (salt cod in a garlic emulsion), marmitako (tuna and potato stew) and pastel de cabracho, a rich scorpionfish pâté. Soak up the city’s ornate heritage at Café Iruña, or go cutting-edge at Nerua, inside the Guggenheim Museum. Don’t miss La Ribera Market for a local pintxos fix. Next, drive to Haro, the beating heart of Rioja Alta wine country. Visit Bodegas Muga, Bodegas CVNE, or La Rioja Alta for tastings amid century-old barrels, and sample hearty local fare like chorizo riojano (a mildly spicy pork sausage) and patatas a la riojana (potato and chorizo stew). Dine at Beethoven Restaurante for traditional Rioja dishes, or try Los Caños for rustic, local charm and a slab of moreish Basque cheesecake. End the road trip in Logroño, where the tapas-bar-lined Calle Laurel forms the perfect finale. Try pinchos morunos (spiced pork skewers), setas a la plancha (garlicky grilled mushrooms) and local sheep’s cheeses. For casual eats, hop from Bar Soriano to Bar Ángel; or go upscale at Ikaro, where Riojan tradition gets the Michelin treatment. The Netherlands Starts: Gouda Ends: Maastricht This trip pairs the country’s finest cheeses and beers with a scenic route through its most delightful cities. Begin in Gouda, where the eponymous cheese is king. Time your visit to catch the Gouda cheese market (Thursdays, April–August), or taste young, aged and herbed varieties at ’t Kaaswinkeltje, the city’s oldest cheese shop (dating from 1880). For something sweet, head to Kamphuisen Siroopwafelfabriek for warm, freshly pressed stroopwafels (flat waffles made with syrup). Next, make your way to Utrecht, where medieval canals meet a lively, youthful food scene. Try a broodje bal (meatball sandwich) or an uitsmijter (fried egg sandwich), and for something different, book a spot at Kaasbar Utrecht, where cheeses glide past you on a conveyor belt. For a more refined dinner, De Goedheyd offers upscale seasonal fare in a heritage building. Wash it all down with organic brews from De Leckere Brewery. Then stop in Breda, a southern city with a Belgian edge. Don’t miss Brabantse worstenbroodjes, the region’s beloved sausage rolls, along with zoervleisj, a sweet-sour beef stew. For something more upscale, head to Restaurant Chocolat, where Dutch cuisine gets a French twist, or enjoy cheese platters and sandwiches at Koffie bij Teun. Sample bold new brews at Frontaal Brewery, a rising star in Dutch craft beer. Pause in Eindhoven for a quick bite of poffertjes (mini pancakes) before continuing to Maastricht, a city that feels more Belgian than Dutch. Try Limburgse vlaai (fruit pie), pungent Limburger cheese and rich stews like zoervleisj at Café Sjiek, and visit Brouwerij Bosch, a historic brewery offering tastings and tours. Italy: Calabria Starts: Cosenza Ends: Pizzo Adventurous, rustic, and unapologetically fiery, Calabria serves up southern Italy at its most soulful. This journey from mountain towns to seaside villages offers a taste of the region’s most iconic ingredients – from spicy ’nduja (a spreadable sausage) to sweet red onions and rich, hand-shaped pasta. Start in Cosenza, a historic hill town with a lively culinary scene. Sample fileja – the region’s twisted pasta – served with creamy tomato and ’nduja sauce, followed by pitta ’mpigliata, a spiced, honeyed pastry filled with raisins and nuts. For dinner, try A Cantina Cosentina for Calabrian classics or Calabria Bella for seasonal, locally sourced dishes just steps from the Duomo. The next day, head onwards to Pizzo, the birthplace of Tartufo di Pizzo, a decadent, cocoa-dusted gelato bombe filled with hazelnut or chocolate sauce. Enjoy it in its purest form at Gelateria Bar Dante, the original café that put it on the map. Try local specialties like Pecorino del Monte Poro cheese and grilled coastal fish at Pepe Nero, a favourite for classic Calabrian cuisine. Spend a couple of days in Tropea, Calabria’s jewel on the Tyrrhenian coast. The star ingredient here is the cipolla rossa di Tropea – a sweet red onion protected by PGI [Protected Geographical Indication] status. Taste it caramelised on focaccia, folded into seafood dishes, or raw in summer salads. For dinner, try Ristorante Pimm’s for a modern spin on regional ingredients, or Terrazza degli Dei for hearty, traditional fare with a gorgeous view out to sea. The trip ends in Scilla, a postcard-perfect fishing village wedged between cliffs and sea. Known for pesce spada (swordfish), the town’s signature dish is grilled or rolled with herbs and breadcrumbs. Dine at Il Casato, perched above the beach with sweeping views, where you can enjoy seafood-infused fileja and marinated local olives. North Macedonia Starts: Skopje Ends: Ohrid It might not be the first place you think of going for good food, but North Macedonia blends Ottoman heritage, Balkan traditions and hearty, homespun flavours. Begin in the capital, Skopje, where the streets of the Old Bazaar overflow with smoky grills and colourful spice stalls. Start with ajvar – a smoky roasted pepper spread – followed by tavče gravče, the national dish of slow-baked beans and kebapi, sizzling grilled meat sausages served with fresh bread and onions. Head to Destan for a classic kebapi plate, and Pivnica An for traditional fare and local brews. Then travel west to Tetovo, in the shadow of the Šar Mountains. This town’s rich cultural blend is reflected in its food – think selsko meso, a rich pork, mushroom and pepper claypot stew, alongside pita (flaky pastry filled with cheese or meat) and fresh mountain trout. Dine at Sharri, a local favorite for hearty, regional dishes. Next, head south to Bitola, a charming town of Ottoman architecture, cafés and broad boulevards. Sample pastrmajlija, a spiced meat pie often dubbed ‘Macedonian pizza’, alongside ajvar with local cheeses. Try Pepsito, a warm, traditional restaurant by the Dragor river. Finish up in Ohrid, where cobbled lanes lead down to one of Europe’s oldest and clearest lakes. Dine on fresh Lake Ohrid trout, grilled or cooked peka-style under a bell-shaped lid, and sip orahovnica, a walnut liqueur popular with locals. For lakefront views, head to Kaneo Restaurant, or tuck into hearty, traditional fare at Taverna St. Sofija. Portugal: West Coast Starts: Lisbon Ends: Porto A road trip along Portugal’s wild west coast offers a heady mix of Atlantic views, historic towns and some of Europe’s most delicious food. Begin in Lisbon, where the scent of grilled sardines and warm pastéis de nata fills the air. Tuck into bacalhau à Brás – salted cod scrambled with eggs and potatoes – and slurp up amêijoas à Bulhão Pato, clams in garlic and coriander. For a variety of bites under one roof, head to the famous Time Out Market. Or go classic at Cervejaria Ramiro, a Lisbon institution famed for shellfish. Then detour inland to Évora, a UNESCO-listed town in the Alentejo region. This is hearty, rustic cuisine at its finest – think açorda alentejana (bread soup with garlic and poached egg), migas (fried bread or tortilla chips mixed with pork or seafood) and full-bodied local wines. Dine at Tasquinha do Oliveira, a local favourite. Continue back to the coast and stop in Nazaré, a fishing village known for its giant waves and beachside seafood. Try grilled sardines straight from the boat, rich caldeirada (fish stew) and pão com chouriço – warm, smoky sausage bread sold fresh from the oven. Enjoy a relaxed meal with sea views at A Tasquinha. Wrap up in Porto, a city of granite facades and tiled churches. Sample a francesinha – a mighty, towering sandwich of steak, ham and sausage smothered in melted cheese and beer sauce – at Café Santiago, or try a modern take at Cantina 32. Don’t leave without sipping the city’s namesake Port wine; cross the river to Vila Nova de Gaia for tastings at historic cellars, such as Graham’s or Cockburn’s. Check out our guide to 7 Portuguese food trips for more travel inspiration, including a seaside break and exploring the country's rural heartland. Switzerland: Alpine region Starts: Montreux Ends: Zermatt Snow-dusted peaks meet indulgent comfort food and crisp mountain air in this divine journey through the Swiss Alps. Start lakeside in elegant Montreux. Dip into a bubbling pot of fondue moitié-moitié – a blend of Gruyère and Vacherin cheeses – then feast on filets de perche, fresh from Lake Geneva. Sip chilled white wines from the terraced Lavaux vineyards, just minutes from town. For lakeside dining, try Le Museum for specialities from raclette, served with boiled potatoes, pickles, and cured meats, to Charbonnade, a tabletop grill where you cook your steak yourself. Next head into the hills to Gruyères, a medieval village crowned with a castle and steeped in dairy heritage. Visit La Maison du Gruyère for a deep dive into the making of the region’s iconic AOP cheese, and stay for lunch. For dessert, indulge in a slice of tarte aux myrtilles (blueberry tart) or the local delicacy: crisp meringues with double cream. Dine at Le Chalet de Gruyères, a picture-perfect alpine restaurant. Afterwards, journey to Interlaken, set between lakes Thun and Brienz, and framed by towering peaks. Try crisp potato rösti – often topped with cheese or bacon – alongside Berner Platte, a carnivore’s fantasy of sausages, smoked meats and sauerkraut. Sample regional beers at Husi Bierhaus, or go for more classic dining at Restaurant Taverne in Hotel Interlaken. End your gourmet adventure in Zermatt, home to the Matterhorn and a haven for mountain cuisine. Enjoy a Walliser Teller – a platter of cured meats, pickles and cheese – and dip crusty rye bread (Zermatter Roggenbrot) into a final molten raclette. For sweeping views and authentic fare, book a table at Zum See, a remote mountain inn beloved by foodies and hikers alike, or Restaurant Schäferstube for hearty Valais specialities. Romania Starts: Sibiu Ends: Bran This taste of Transylvania combines medieval towns, mountain views and heart-warming dishes rooted in tradition. Begin in Sibiu, a charming Saxon town with cobbled lanes and pastel façades. Tuck into hearty local fare like ciorbă de burtă (creamy tripe soup), smoky mici (grilled sausages), and plăcintă cu mere – a flaky apple pie, often served warm. Dine underground at Crama Sibiană, a vaulted cellar restaurant, or opt for a modern spin on tradition at Kulinarium. Next head to fairytale Sighișoara, birthplace of Vlad the Impaler and one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval citadels. Feast on sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls), caltaboș (spiced liver sausage) and papanași – Romania’s iconic fried doughnuts served with sour cream and jam. For atmosphere, try Casa Vlad Dracul, located in the reputed birthplace of Count Dracula, or go upscale at Joseph T. Restaurant. Drive onwards to Brașov, a lively city ringed by mountains and Gothic architecture, where you can dig into rustic dishes like mămăligă (polenta), bulz (polenta stuffed with cheese and bacon) and ciorbă rădăuțeană, a garlicky chicken soup with sour cream. Cosy up at La Ceaun for traditional stews or head to Sergiana for tasty Romanian-Saxon fusion. End your trip in Bran, famous for its castle but equally rich in rural cuisine. Sample game dishes like venison stew, colțunași (dumplings filled with cheese or meat) and homemade cheeses. Casa din Bran offers traditional dishes in a rustic mountain setting, while Restaurant Bran Belvedere adds spectacular castle views to your final feast. More travel guides The best health and wellness retreats for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known cities 5 destinations at the cutting edge of sleep tourism Best romantic hotels Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best European city breaks 10 unique walking holidays for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations
Austria’s capital caters to both traditionalists and modernists with bistros, wine bars, cafés and schnitzel restaurants
Looking for where to eat in Vienna? We share insider tips for the best restaurants in the Austrian capital, along with where to find old-world cafés, hot dogs and secret bars in the cobbled backstreets and grand avenues. Best places to eat and drink in Vienna Café Ährlich – for farm to table brunch Café Ährlich is the ultimate farm to table brunch spot. Interiors feel Scandi in design but warm in mood with friendly staff, plus the scent of freshly baked bread in the air. Dishes are made with produce that is grown on the restaurant's farm in Innviertel, a region in Northwestern Austria. The flavours are clean and simple, allowing the freshness of the produce to shine. Try the Innviertel breakfast, a breakfast plate with house-made rolls, a soft-boiled egg, salami from their pigs and home-made blackcurrant jam. Plus, there are fantastic sourdough and pastries too. aehrlich.at Café Vollpension – for heartwarming, home-made food Vollpension is a spot to warm your heart and your belly. It describes itself as ‘Granny’s public living room’ and that is exactly how it feels. The café is run not only to provide delicious meals, but to promote connection between the generations, help end old-age poverty and reduce loneliness. The café is staffed by the young and old, with the older staff all working after their retirement age. They also cook their own recipes for all the delicious treats on the counter, which you can watch as you order. Take your token to the cake counter and exchange it for a slice of sachertorte, strudel or apple tiramisu, to name a few, all served with a generous dollop of whipped cream. We loved the buchteln, a fluffy yeasted roll stuffed with plum jam, sat in a bowl of warm crème anglaise. Kitschy interiors with lots of cute frames of furry friends make the cosy vibe even nicer. vollpension.wien Wiener Würstelstand – for the best street food Sausages are a big deal in Vienna, so much so that sausage stands in Vienna have UNESCO cultural heritage status. There are many independent sausage stands across the city, but our favourite was at Wiener Würstelstand. You can spot the bright orange font on stands across the city. A must order is a Käserkreiner, a lightly smoked sausage with chunks of cheese inside. Make sure you know your answer to the question ‘sweet or spicy?’ as they’re referring to the mustard you want with your dog. We think the answer is both! wien.info Café Sperl – for coffee in historic surroundings This spot is a Viennese institution, open since 1880, so is soaked in history. Waiters bustle about in traditional black and white uniform, serving classics such as Einspänner, a strong espresso topped with whipped cream, and fiaker, a strong coffee spiked with rum. Have a slice of cake with your coffee from the cake trolley, with all the Viennese offerings, such as strudel, sachertorte or marillenfleck (apricot cake). There's a strong savoury menu too, including rindsuppe mit frittaten, a style of beef soup with thinly sliced pancakes. There is a huge billiards table and live piano on Sundays from 3.30pm. You’ll come away feeling like you’ve sipped coffee in a historical landmark! cafesperl.at/en &Flora – for veggie-forward cooking &Flora offers veggie-forward plates in relaxing interiors. Located in the very chic Hotel Gilbert, the staff are attentive and friendly, making you feel like a guest even if you’re just stopping by. Start with the house-made focaccia and a pickle plate. Soft, salty and dripping with good-quality olive oil, this is the perfect start to the meal. The pickles are crunchy and fresh, the perfect acidic bite to get your mouth watering. The plates lean mainly veggie, with a few meatier options scattered throughout. Standouts include charred pointed cabbage with tahini and chilli crunch, XO beef tartare with furikake and pickled cabbage and trout crudo with snow peas and pickled elderflower. undflora.at Hans & Fritz – for picturesque Austrian vineyards A short 30-minute car ride from central Vienna takes you to some of the most picturesque vineyards you could possibly see. With stunning views over Vienna, Hans & Fritz offers Austrian wine and seasonal plates with atmosphere to match. Sit in the vineyards overlooking the grapes growing while sampling the finished product. There's a whole host of wines to choose from, both by the bottle and the glass. Pair with great breads, charcuterie, pâté and cheeses to nibble alongside. This is the perfect spot to take a date, though do be warned – the hill to get there is very steep! hansundfritz.at Mochi – for Austro-Japanese fusion Start your meal at this Austro-Japanese izakaya, with a refreshing spritz (yuzu sake, frizzante and mint) or a hot sake. Then, perch at the wooden bar to watch bandana-clad chefs preparing sushi and small plates – “special rolls” include My Best Friend, a parcel of tempura leek, salmon sashimi and miso teriyaki sauce. Skewers from the grill include pork belly and chicken skin while Mochi’s small plates line-up features crispy karaage chicken and minced pork tan tan salad in chilli teriyaki. And don’t miss the tempura prawns on crunchy lettuce with chilli mayo and yuzu truffle dressing. mochi.at Café Ansari – for Georgian cuisine A duck egg-blue counter, jade green walls and lace lampshades create a warm and welcoming vibe at Café Ansari. The owners’ Georgian/Lebanese heritage is reflected in brunch options such as khachapuri bread oozing with cheese and platters of hummus, labneh, cheese and sumac-sprinkled cherry tomatoes. Traditionalists are catered for, too, with homemade apricot jam to spread over fresh rolls and croissants. To go with your choice, order homemade lemon balm and lavender lemonade (served in vintage carafes) or pick from the café’s list of unusual Georgian wines. cafeansari.at Kleines Café – for traditional Viennese vibes Leave your smartphone at the pale green door here and chat with the artsy regulars inside. Living up to its name this tiny mirror-lined space, with its worn leather banquettes and wooden chairs, has long been a bohemian haunt. A charming waiter weaves his way around, taking orders for traditional Viennese coffees (try an Einspänner – espresso with cream top, a mélange – espresso with hot water and frothy milk, or a Kleiner Brauner – espresso with milk on the side) and Austrian house wine. Franziskanerplatz 3 Karmelitermarkt – for farmers market shopping Seek out up-and-coming Karmelitermarkt, where Monday through Saturday, the cobbled square transforms into a farmer’s market and colourful kiosks contrast with the ancient buildings that surround them. Grab breakfast at one of the neighbouring cafés then shop for flowers, organic veg and Burgenland honey. Leopoldgasse Felzl – for Austrian bakes Whether you’re after a rustic loaf, a sandwich or a pastry, Felzl puts an Austrian stamp on its menu of Mediterranean bakes – crustily precise French baguettes, apple tarts made with North Austrian apples, and richly chocolated bundt cakes. There are even two bread-vending machines so, if you get a carb craving late at night, you can pick up a loaf after-hours. felzl.at Bitzinger – for hot dogs The city’s Bitzinger sausage stand is equally popular among selfie-snapping tourists and tux-clad opera-goers. It’s a slick but friendly operation. Order snacks such as käsekreiner (sliced cheese-studded sausage) and you’ll be served speedily, and with a smile. bitzinger-wien.at Krypt – for cocktails In-the-know locals cram into this subterranean speakeasy for killer cocktails. Prop up the walnut-topped, black marble bar and choose between a Mexican Massage (with plenty of tequila, lime and jalapeño) or rum-based Pineapple Express. Then, take your drink into a brick-lined alcove and challenge your companion to a game of shuffleboard, or peruse the surrounding art Krypt also sells itself as Vienna’s smallest gallery. krypt.bar Weinschenke – for burgers This burger joint has several locations across the city. Once you’ve finished shopping at the farmer’s market (see above) head to the Karmelitermarkt outpost and sip a glass of Austrian wine or a citrussy Austrian Amber Ale while you plough through a Wild Guy (beef patty, cheddar, bacon, egg, japapenos, red onions and smoky BBQ sauce) or a Vito (wild boar burger with sherry pepper sauce, herbs and red cabbage). The beef comes from a local butcher while the wild boar is hunted from the Waldviertel woods in northern Austria. weinschenke-wien.com Phil – for lazy afternoons This cool and quirky cafe, with its funky retro furniture, is the place to head to if you want to combine coffee culture and book culture. There’s no time pressure at this café-cum-bookstore, so order a mélange (espresso, hot water, frothy milk) and a slice of vegan carrot cake and take your time browsing the well-stocked bookshelves. phil.info Jonas Reindl – for a hip coffee hangout This speciality brewspot is one of the city’s most popular third-wave coffee shops. Coffee aficionados come to the pared-back space to gather over flat whites and cortados; the drinks are made using espresso from Barn in Berlin and a chocolate-y Nicaraguan house blend with nougat and almond notes. Apple cake, streusel and decadent chocolate cake sit temptingly under glass domes for those who fancy a sweet treat to accompany their coffee. jonasreindl.at Naschmarkt Doing a brisk trade in fruit and veg since 1793, the Naschmarkt’s stalls brim with everything from glossy olives and Asian spices to Alpine cheeses and Austrian wines. Go for a morning stroll before a bumper breakfast of omelette-topped bagels and fresh-pressed juice at Naschmarkt Deli. Pick up a bag of freshly roasted Alt Wiener Gold coffee, at Alt Wien. An unassuming-looking coffee shop nearbt, it does an expert line in fair-trade and organic blends. altwien.at Henzls Ernte Stop by Henzls Ernte for deli goods made with fruit, herbs and spices grown or foraged by the owners. Their pepped-up sugars and salts and nettle and wild garlic pesto are especially worth seeking out. henzls.at Café Central Freud and Trotsky famously enjoyed the marble splendour of Café Central. Black-vested waiters have been serving a slice of old-world Viennese decadence to visitors in this palatial coffee house since 1876. Try the linger over apple strudel, which flakes just so, and speciality coffees such as Maria Theresia, an orange liqueur-laced double espresso topped with whipped cream. Trzesniewski This small chain has the open sandwich down to a fine art. Try toppings such as crab and egg, pickled herring and onions and wild paprika. A couple of bites and they're gone, so order a few. trzesniewski.at Best hotels for foodies in Vienna Hotel Gilbert A stone’s throw from the trendy MuseumsQuartier, Hotel Gilbert is a fantastic base for a city break. The hotel is chicly decorated with comfortable rooms and cosy beds. There is sustainability at the forefront of thinking, with refillable toiletry bottles in the rooms and air-con that only runs from 27c. If you’re a food lover, this is the hotel for you. &Flora is the restaurant within the hotel, offering veggie-centric small plates with middle Eastern influences. The breakfast buffet is a huge spread of pickles, hot items, cereals, breads, dips, fruits and vegetables. There's a gym and sauna plus bike rentals for exploring the city. And when you’re done, you can head to the bar for ‘wine time’ with a complimentary glass of wine each evening. Rooms start at £126 a night, check availability at hotel-gilbert.at/en or booking.com Grand Ferdinand Hotel Enter this plush hotel via its statement lobby (go easy past the life-size horse statue) and check into one of its moodily minimal bedrooms. Then, follow your stomach and either swing up to the Grand Etage restaurant, with its panoramic views over the city, or swerve into the hotel’s dedicated schnitzel joint, Meissl & Schadn. The top-floor Grand Etage sits beside a large terrace and lap pool but we recommend heading up at breakfast and loading your plate with Austrian sausages, pickled fish and typical bakes and eating them from the comfort of a floral-patterned armchair looking out across gilded rooftops, intricate domes and palaces. At Meissl & Schadn, on the other hand, peer past the ‘Schnitzel Love’ sign in the window and watch, mesmerized, white apron-clad chefs prepare traditional Viennese schnitzel beneath an extravagant chandelier. Veal is bashed, dipped in breadcrumbs and fried in your choice of lard, pork dripping or vegetable oil to create a frilly, golden crumb. For the full experience, book-end your main course with a shrimp cocktail to start and an apple strudel to finish. Check availability at grandferdinand.com or booking.com The Guesthouse With the help of Terence Conran this former youth hostel, on the same square as the Vienna Opera House, is now a sleek, design hotel. One of its best features is an award-winning wood-stove bakery so expect the very best Viennese pastries for breakfast. Glittering palaces, classical music and exceptional art make Vienna ideal for a grown-up weekend away. Foodies can sign up to a cooking class with Bianca, a locally-run workshop that takes you straight into the world of Austrian cuisine; shop at the market before returning to the kitchen to learn how to prepare paprika chicken stew, spaetzli (dumplings) with salad and proper apple strudel before sitting down to enjoy the feast. Check availability at theguesthouse.at or booking.com First written by Kerry Christiani in 2013, updated by Alex Crossley in 2019 and by Helena Busiakiewicz in 2025 Photographs: Meierei, Sandra Raccanello /SIME/4Corners, Reinhard Schmid/4Corners, Helen Cathcart/Lonely Planet Traveller Magazine
20 food experiences around the world that every food lover should try
From summer crayfish banquets in Malmö to Quebec's snow-taffy celebrations, check out Gurdeep Loyal's favourite foodie experiences from across the globe
Looking to add memorable foodie experiences to your bucket list? We asked food and drink trends specialist Gurdeep Loyal for 20 recommendations from around the world. For more from Gurd, check out his favourite homeware brands and products to discover, Gurdeep Loyal's culinary hotspots and Gurdeep Loyal's trend-led recipes. Gurdeep's favourite foodie experiences around the world 1. London, UK – Eat pie and mash in an iconic East End pie house Pie, mash and liquor (parsley sauce) is a culinary icon, upheld today by a handful of East End family eateries. G Kelly on Roman Road Market (in the Mile End neighbourhood) has been serving pies, mash, liquor and jellied eels since 1939. Its classic beef mince pie has a perfectly burnished pastry crust and is served with a puddle of flavourful green liquor and creamy mash. S&R Kelly & Sons in Bethnal Green is another East End institution – it’s been making traditional handmade mince meat pies since 1915. 2. Malmö, Sweden – Welcome August like a Scandi at a crayfish party August in Sweden is all about kräftskiva: outdoor parties centred around music, drinking and vats of freshly caught crayfish boiled in briny liquid (sometimes with a splash of ale), served cold with a crown of fresh dill. Malmö on the southwestern coast of Sweden is one of the best places to experience one. The Malmö Festival takes over Stortorget Square every August with long banquet tables (they stretch for more than 1km) piled high with boiled crayfish. 3. Mumbai, India – Do a sunset chaat street-snack crawl at Juhu Chowpatty Beach Juhu Chowpatty Beach in Mumbai is famous for its long sandy beach, sunset views and some of the best – and most colourful – street food stands in all of India. Visit Shree Ram Pav Bhaji for its paneer pav bhaji served with a buttery roll, masala pilou and Indo-Chinese hakka noodles. Sharma Chaat Bhandar is known for crunchy pani puri and papdi chaat, while Juhu Sealand specialises in technicolour falooda milkshakes and creamy pistachio-cashew kulfis. 4. Primorska, Slovenia – Visit a biodynamic orange winery Slovenia’s orange wines (made from white grapes where the skin and seeds are left in the macerations to impart an orange tint and tannins) are some of the best in the world. They’re known for their bold and complex flavours, with notes of floral herbs and rich honey. The north-western Primorska region, which stretches along the Adriatic Sea, is where Slovenia’s most prominent orange wineries can be found. Guerilla, a biodynamic winery in the Vipava Valley, is famous for its deep golden-coloured wines with notes of chamomile; and Movia wine estate in the village of Ceglo makes wines with intense bouquets of citrus, peaches, liquorice, vanilla and nutmeg. 5. Penang, Malaysia – Take in the nighttime delights of Kimberly Street Night Market One of the most vibrant places to eat after dark in Penang is Kimberley Street Night Market in George Town’s Chinatown. Here you can try everything from laksa and oyster omelettes to char kway teow fried noodles and sweet si koh soup. Kimberley Street Duck Kway Chap is known for its rich braised duck flat-rice noodle soup. Tina’s Kitchen is a family-run spot that sells five-spiced Chinese sausage rolls, nasi ulum salted fish rice, and purple yam with tapioca jelly. And Tua Pui Curry Mee serves thick, aromatic curry soups with chicken, squid or cuttlefish. 6. Quebec, Canada – Head to a sugar shack for maple syrup snow-taffy celebrations Maple syrup taffy celebrations mark the Canadian culinary calendar every March and April. The highlight is when freshly tapped maple syrup is boiled, drizzled over clean white snow, then wound and twisted onto popsicle sticks into a sticky, chewy taffy. The area surrounding Montreal is famous for its cabanes à sucre (sugar shacks), which are traditional Quebec establishments where the new season’s maple syrup is celebrated in all its culinary guises. Érablière du Cap has been celebrating maple syrup since 1983 and offers a unique sugar shack menu and maple snow taffy experience. The Le Relais des Pins sugar shack experience includes visits to the maple sugar refinery and sleigh rides in the snow. 7. Houston and Louisiana, USA – Put on a bib and dive into a Viet-Cajun seafood boil Vietnamese immigrants have been thriving in the USA since the 1970s, particularly in Houston and Louisiana, which has resulted in a unique Viet-Cajun fusion cuisine. The most famous dish to come from this is Viet-Cajun seafood boil (traditional Cajun boil meets Southeast Asian aromatics). Crawfish & Noodles in Houston from James Beard Award-nominated chef Trong Nguyen specialises in Viet-Cajun crayfish, flavoured with a special spice blend (featuring lemongrass, ginger, garlic and cayenne) and served with Asian honey garlic wings on the side. Big EZ in Louisiana serves its Viet-Cajun boil Saigon-style: with kumquat, lemongrass and Cajun spices. 8. San Sebastián, Spain – Hop from bar to bar for pintxos and txakoli Basque-style tapas (pintxos) are typically served on long cocktail skewers or on top of toasted bread. San Sebastián, with is long sandy beach and characterful cobbled old town, is famous for its numerous pintxos bars, where hopping from one place to another is very much the done thing. Try the ‘igueldo’ at Antonio Bar: roasted tomato, tuna belly, Basque green peppers and salted anchovy on bread. Then head to Bar Txepetxa for fried calamari, gambas, vinegared anchovies and gilda, eaten alongside the region’s famous sparkling dry white wine, txakoli. Finish at La Espiga for thinly sliced jamón, oozy Spanish tortilla and stuffed piquillo peppers. Check out our full guide to the best restaurants in San Sebastian for more inspiration. 9. Oaxaca City, Mexico – Try freshly steamed street-side tamales Mexico’s Oaxaca City is all about tamales: steamed masa corn parcels filled with richly flavoured fillings, wrapped in banana leaves or corn husks, then freshly steamed. The rich, intensely savoury mole tamales at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas are some of the best in the city. Or head to Tamales de Tia Tila just outside of the city for black mole and salsa verde filled tamales, along with sweet tamales with cinnamon and tropical fruits. See our full guide to Oaxaca for more, including where to stay. We've also got a recipe for Mexican chicken mole rojo, to recreate at home. 10. Lagos, Nigeria – Enjoy barbecued suya skewers with yaji spice Nigeria’s famous suya skewers are strips of beef or goat, marinated in a yaji spice blend of chilli, ginger, garlic, peanuts and sometimes fermented locust beans and crushed bouillon. These are barbecued on skewers and served with more yaji spice sprinkled on top. The roads of Lagos are awash with suya carts and stalls. Glover Court Suya is one of the most loved spots, serving up beef and mixed grill skewers using its own unique spice blend. Locals favour Belton Suya Spot and Akerele Super Suya for their flavourful suya skewers. Discover more about Nigerian cuisine. 10. Nice, France – Take a fire-baked socca and pissaladière to the beach The regional cooking in Nice combines seasonal Provençal ingredients with Italian influences, as is best illustrated by socca and pissaladière. Socca (chickpea flour pancakes) are cooked in large iron pans over fire until scorched, then hand-cut into craggy pieces before being piled onto paper plates and served with sachets of salt and pepper. Pissaladière is a savoury Niçois pizza-tart with a thick layer of caramelised onions, anchovies and olives on top. Chez Rene Socca situated on a bustling corner of old town has queues for their piping hot socca and generously topped pissaladière at all hours. Chez Teresa, which also pops up in the old town market, is known for its crispy and moreish socca, perfect for taking to the beach with a cold bottle of French beer. Check out our round up of the best French food trips for more France travel inspiration. 11. Chicago, USA – Indulge in Chicago’s deep-dish and ultra-thin tavern-style pizzas Although Chicago deep-dish has attracted global fame, there are in fact two pizza styles that reign supreme in the windy city: buttery crusted cast-iron deep-dish, and ultra-thin crispy square-cut tavern style. For deep-dish, head to cult Chicago institution Piquods in Lincoln Park for ‘caramelised edge’ cheese-crusts, oozy layered inverted fillings and high-quality ingredients. For square-cut tavern style, visit Italian-owned Pat's Pizzeria, where the ‘cracker crust’ pizzas have been a hit with locals since 1950. 12. Singapore – Dive into some saucy Singaporean chilli crab Singaporean chilli crab is traditionally made with mud crabs that are cooked in an intensely flavoured sauce, rich with chilli, garlic, ginger, shallots, tomato paste and sometimes lemongrass, fermented soybean paste, sesame oil, or Shaoxing wine. Roland Restaurant is often cited as the birthplace of the dish and its recipe (invented by Madam Cher Yam Tian) has an intense chilli heat and deep flavour. The Michelin-recognised Keng Eng Kee Seafood at Alexandra Village is equally renowned for its own take on chilli crab, with a slick sweet and sour style sauce that’s thickened with egg. Try making it at home with our Singapore chilli crab recipe. 13. Tokyo, Japan – Try whisky highballs and drinking snacks in the alleyways of Golden Gai Golden Gai is a district of Kabukicho in Shinjuku where there are more than 250 tiny drinking dens across a handful of streets. Dongara-Gassyan specialises in Osaka-style fried meat and vegetable skewers, and Japanese karage-fried chicken with a tare glaze. Albatros bar with its kitsch chandeliers and chintzy interiors is famous for cocktails infused with ingredients such as spicy pepper and prickly pear. And Totobar is known for its sake, served up with small plates of grilled fish and sashimi. 14. Brussels, Belgium – Feast on shrimp bechamel croquettes and Belgian craft beer Belgium’s famous garnaalkroketten are deep-fried bechamel croquettes filled with flavoursome grey shrimp – expect a crisp, bread coating and creamy, velvety middle. Most traditional restaurants in Brussels have them on the menu, but the best place to try them is at Noordzee Mer Du Nord situated in a picturesque square in the historic old town, overlooking the gothic Église Sainte-Catherine. They’re freshly fried to order and are served with a rich mayonnaise and thick wedges of lemon – perfect for eating on outdoor tables that dot the square, with a craft Belgian beer to hand. Mare in the hip Wolf Food Hall also serves classic shrimp and old brugge cheese croquettes with homemade tartar. 15. St John’s, Antigua – Try the national dish of pepperpot and fungee Pepperpot is a one-pot stew that’s cooked long and slow with everything from beef to salted pork, spinach, yams, scotch bonnet peppers, thyme and all-spice. It’s served with fungee – a cornmeal and okra-based bread ball. Suga Beez is a road-side eatery with a daily changing menu of local specialities that serves up some of the most flavoursome pepperpot in St John’s. And Joe Mikes restaurant, which is attached to a casino, is a buffet-canteen style eatery that serves pillowy soft and delicate fungee alongside long-cooked pepperpot in a rich, meaty broth. 16. Crete, Greece – Eat traditional antikristo at a Cretan tavern Antikristo, which means ‘over fire’, is a traditional Cretan method of roasting salted lamb or goat on large skewers for several hours over open flames, then letting the meat cook in its own juices to give it a deep, intensely smoky flavour. Taverna Arhaia Lappa is an ancient tavern in the village of Rethymno that’s famous for its antikristo lamb. In Heraklion, Petousis is known for its traditional Greek barbecued lamb, cooked with the skewers in a circular formation for up to six hours until tender and deliciously charred. 17. Hong Kong – Dine at an old-school dim sum trolley-cart institution These unique establishments that serve freshly steamed dim sum on old-school trolley carts are treasured in Hong Kong. Lin Heung Lau Tea Room is one of the oldest, known for its steamed barbecued buns and har gau, pan-fried radish cake and deep-fried sesame balls. Luk On Kui is another traditional push-cart dim sum eatery that harks back to the 1970s with its décor and old world charms. Maxims Palace is one of Hong Kong’s most adored dim sum cart institutions, complete with white table clothes, crystal chandeliers and an almost endless selection of dim sum to select from trolleys that circle through the restaurant every lunchtime. 18. Turin, Italy – Try gianduja hazelnut chocolates in all their guises Gianduja – a rich chocolate and hazelnut confection – is the culinary symbol of Turin and Piedmont in northern Italy, showcasing the regions intensely flavoured buttery hazelnuts. It’s often turned into chocolate bars, sold as a spreadable paste, or even made into gianduiotto chocolate nuggets. Guido Gobino is a 50-year-old Turin institution with a historic headquarters on Cagliari Street. Its gianduja combines 45% tonda gentile trilobata hazelnuts, Italian sugar and vanilla bean. Contemporary chocolatier Guido Castagna sells unique tear-drop shaped gianduiotto, made with chuao cocoa from Venezuela. 20. Hanoi, Vietnam – Tackle a deep-filled bánh mì at a street-side stall in the city The bustling motorbike-flooded streets of Hanoi are the best places in the country for Vietnamese bánh mì sandwiches (French-style baguettes filled with the likes of lemongrass-marinated barbecued meats, pickled carrots and radishes, whole red chillies and fresh coriander). Bánh Mì Bà Dần in Hanoi’s old quarter is known for its crispy-soft breads and generous fillings, while Banh Mi Lan Ong offers Vietnamese sausage and fried egg fillings, plus signature sauces and duck pâté. Check out our rainbow banh mí recipe to make your own at home. 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Discover the best places to eat and drink in Berlin, from Michelin-starred fine dining to the best burgers and bakeries
Looking for the best restaurants in Berlin? Berlin's eclectic culinary scene is filled with independent shops, restaurants and cafés. We asked local insiders Lena Peter and Kater Lewin to share the must-visit places, whether you're looking for a memorable Michelin-starred meal, a great place to have a drink or the best bakery to visit in the morning. For more European travel inspiration, check out our picks of the best restaurants in Porto or best restaurants in Marseille. Not sure where you want to go? Browse our top European city breaks and the best foodie city breaks by train. Best places to eat and drink in Berlin Bonvivant – for Michelin-starred vegetarian Where else but Berlin? Bonvivant is one of the city’s first vegetarian-leaning Michelin-starred restaurant and proof that fine dining doesn’t need meat to blow minds. It offers a five- or six-course set menu, pairing hyper-seasonal veggies with bold techniques and even bolder cocktails. Most ingredients are sourced from local farms and producers – even the “pausenbrot” between courses comes from the neighbourhood bakery next door. bonvivant.berlin Bistro Spumante – for a buzzy outdoor terrace A local favourite for kick-starting a long Berlin night. Spumante keeps things easy: sparkling drinks on tap, laid-back vibes and snacks that channel a quick trip to the Mediterranean. The famous Maggi-Ei, lacing eggs with Germany’s renowned umami-rich Maggi sauce, brings it back to Berlin in the best way. It’s always buzzing here, especially once the terrace fills up with neighbours toasting to life. bistro-spumante.org Fabrik 23 – for Italian special events This Wedding neighbourhood gem hosts exclusive Italian fine dining events blending with Berlin’s industrial charm. Housed in a former factory, its design loft atmosphere is a unique space for fun gatherings over Italian dishes such as organic orecchiette with cime di rapa or octopus with creamy burrata and candied tomatoes paired with expert wine selections. Be quick, as these events sell out fast. fabrik23.com Buya Ramen Factory – for ramen Tucked inside a courtyard and easily missed (unless you’re in the know), Buya serves some of Berlin’s best ramen. This is a staple for locals craving comfort food with a modern twist, with highlights including vegan tonkotsu ramen, rich chāshū pork ramen or cold tantan noodles. It’s an ideal low-key weekday lunch. buyarestaurants.com Atelier Dough – for doughnuts This neighbourhood café is known for fluffy, cloud-like doughnuts with brûléed sugar crusts, tangy lemon curd and gooey apple cinnamon glaze. Watch the French pastry finesse happen through large windows while waiting. Locals know to come early – these beauties sell out fast. atelierdough.com Mikrokosmos – for boundary-pushing vegan cuisine Mikrokosmos pushes boundaries with its insect-based cuisine. It’s a neighbourhood gem for future-forward food: mostly vegan and vegetarian, focussed on sustainability and regional produce from Brandenburg. The Peruvian chef adds bold, soulful flavours to create the likes of kohlrabi apple ceviche in spicy habanero tiger milk and grasshoppers. And the plant-forward ‘normal’ menu still makes it a date-night darling. Natural and low-intervention wine list? A+. mikrokosmosberlin.com Smooches – for breakfast sandwiches Locals come here again and again for sourdough muffins and crusty breakfast sandwiches packed with fluffy eggs, sausages and melting cheese. It’s small, it’s no frills and that’s exactly why the queue outside on weekends never lies. smooches.berlin Bar Basta – for seasonal small plates Laid-back, a little fancy and open all day. Bar Basta is the new kid in town located inside Hotel Casa Camper. Mornings here start with comforting specials like french toast and meatball sandwiches, served with mimosas and bloody marys flowing from carafes. Come evening, the vibe shifts to seasonal plates – Beelitzer asparagus with sauce hollandaise, spinach with sunflower tahini or langós with wild garlic pesto – and classic cocktails with a twist. @basta.berlin Zeit für Brot – for a great bakery Artisan baker Zeit für Brot has three locations across the city, each with more than two dozen varieties of sourdough bread for sale. Classic stulle sandwiches (think deli meats and cheeses between thick slices of sourdough) are another draw, but it’s the bakery’s cinnamon buns that get people queueing round the block. zeitfuerbrot.com Markthalle Neun – for a food hall The beating heart of Berlin’s food scene is the magnificent Markthalle Neun. Here you’ll find some of the city’s best food vendors and produce – don’t miss the traditional German meats and brilliant burgers at innovative butcher Kumpel & Keule. markthalleneun.de Madame Ngo – for Vietnamese food For the best pho in town, head to Madame Ngo, a Vietnamese spot in Charlottenburg. Here, bone broths are cooked all day to give an intense and authentic flavour. Order the rare-beef version, made with tender German steak. madame-ngo.de Nobelhart & Schmutzig – for fine dining The pioneers of Berlin’s brutal lokal (brutally local) movement are Billy Wagner and Micha Schäfer, who run the kitchen at Nobelhart & Schmutzig with such strict adherence to the ethos that you’ll find no lemons, pepper, olive oil or chocolate on the menu. Typical dishes include porcini mushrooms in a thyme and buckwheat ferment, and wild hops with dried raspberries and white beer ice cream. nobelhartundschmutzig.com Adana Grillhaus – for Turkish food For the most delicious barbecued meats head to Kreuzberg’s Adana Grillhaus and order a meze to share, along with a choice of grilled lamb and chicken (skewers, chops, ribs, meatballs and more). adanagrillhaus.de BRŁO – for craft beer At craft brewery BRŁO’s unique location, inside 38 shipping containers, you’ll find some of the city’s best beers. Join one of the weekly tours or head straight to the bar for a glass of berliner weisse, the local, pleasingly sour, white beer. There’s also an on-site restaurant. brlo.de Damaskus Konditorei – for Syrian pastries No trip to Berlin would be complete without sampling the Syrian sweets at Damaskus Konditorei, with three locations across the city. Owner Tamem al-Sakka’s considerable range of expertly crafted pastries includes baklava and halawet el jibn (rolls of semolina dough filled with white cheese and rosewater). @Konditorei.Damaskus Long March Canteen – for dumplings Dive into the world of a Chinese eating house at the Long March Canteen. Specialising in both hot and cold dim sum, its most impressive feature is the dumpling station, the steam rising from it glowing under a red light. Try the tuna sashimi with beetroot. longmarchcanteen.com Skykitchen – for Michelin-starred dining Michelin-starred restaurant Skykitchen is set on the 11th floor of Andel’s Hotel Berlin, so diners get to enjoy breathtaking views of the city’s skyline as well as dishes like pikeperch with black pudding, pickled cabbage, pear and pearl onion. skykitchen.berlin JaJa – for natural wine Berlin’s drinkers were early champions of the natural wine movement. Head to wine bar and shop JaJa for some of the city’s best bottles, accompanied by innovative seasonal tapas plates, as well as monthly events with growers and producers. jajaberlin.com Not Only Riesling – for a wine bar When the sun hits, there’s nothing better than sitting outside wine bar Not Only Riesling with a glass of something chosen with care, direct from German and European wineries. Order a Riesling Quickie (three 0.1l glasses of German wine) or a Small Wine Tasting, (six 0.1l glasses from further afield plus a cheese board). notonlyriesling.de Café am Literaturhaus – for brunch Not everything in Berlin is fast-changing and modern. Head to Café am Literaturhaus, a literature-focused exhibition space in a Wilhelminian-style villa, for a breakfast of ham and eggs, or a coffee and a strawberry tart; grab an outdoor table to enjoy the beautiful gardens. literaturhaus-berlin.de Burgeramt – for burgers The Berlin burger scene is huge and the standard high, but Burgeramt is the best for brisk but friendly service and a wide selection. If you’re overwhelmed by choice go for the teriyaki burger. burgeramt.com The Barn Roastery – for coffee Owner of The Barn Roastery, Ralf Müller, has been a slow-brew pioneer in Berlin so expect a sensational coffee here, accompanied by a Berliner stulle (sandwich). The coffee is roasted at the back of the shop and is available to buy if you want to take some home. thebarn.de Best food shops and classes in Berlin KaDeWe – for food shopping Iconic department store KaDeWe has a seriously impressive food court: try traditional mettwurst and kohlwurst cooked à la minute at the sausage counter, with piles of potato salad and mustard. kadewe.de Goldhahn & Sampson – for cookery classes A paradise for gourmets, Goldhahn & Sampson sells fine food, exceptional drinks, artisan chocolates and pastries as well as a variety of cookbooks. It also hosts regular cookery classes, some of them in English. goldhahnundsampson.de More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Check out our pick of the Danish capital's affordable eats, from stylish bistros to veggie tasting menus and atmospheric wine bars, plus a great-value restaurant-hopping tour
Looking for affordable restaurants in Copenhagen? A weekend foodie break in the Danish capital can be affordable. Copenhagen is renowned for its Michelin-starred restaurants and clever Nordic cuisine, but we have wandered the city's neighbourhoods including Vesterbro and Nørrebro to create our guide to the best value foodie spots. Find out where locals eat and drink in Copenhagen – where they grab coffee on their morning commute, the affordable street food stalls from which they get their lunchtime fix, where they enjoy a leisurely brunch at the weekends, and their favourite secret drinking dens. Copenhagen's best affordable places to eat and drink Atelier September – for bistro lunch This pretty café and gallery is hygge at its best – Danish crockery in neutral tones sits snuggly in chic dressers, bottles of wine are elegantly aligned on white shelves, and stylish locals slouch around the large communal table at the café’s heart cupping polkadot mugs of Swedish Koppi coffee. Order warm, cinnamon-infused apple juice and a traditional poppy seed-covered Te Birkes pastry. For lunch, harissa is stirred through a pumpkin purée sprinkled with crunchy toasted buckwheat and fresh coriander, while lemon oil, zest and fresh tomatoes add a citrusy kick to creamy straciatella. cafeatelierseptember.com Den Vandrette – for natural wine You’ll find this cosy, candlelit wine bar, sunk down from the pavement, just around the corner from the colourful buildings of Nyhaven. Dried flowers hang from arched ceilings, fur throws are draped across wooden benches and vintage rugs add warmth to concrete floors. Sune Rosforth, Copenhagen’s pioneering natural wine importer, has selected an imaginative list of natural wines to choose from. Try elegant Nas del Gegant rosé, La Sorga’s sparkling Belzebrut, or orange wines from Georgia. Nordic small plates include smoked celeriac with oyster leaf and crisp black chickpeas, Norwegian scallops with sea buckthorn and habanero, and Christiansø herring with brown butter and crème fraîche. denvandrette.dk Lille Bakery – for local bakes Cycle across the river, past Noma’s greenhouses, to vibrant Refshaleøen where you’ll find this warehouse turned bakery. The airy building has had a lick of white paint, but its earthy interiors remain intact, putting the open bakery and prep area (where colourful salads are chopped on the counter and daily bakes sit on cooling racks) in the spotlight. It’s difficult to choose between umami-rich Danish pork sausage rolls with apple and fennel seeds, cod with lentils, leeks and cavolo nero, and carrot, pumpkin and ricotta tart. All dishes come with homemade bread, and drinks – think hibiscus iced tea or iced coffee – are homemade. lillebakery.com Høst – for great-value set menus There’s an indoor-outdoor feel at this contemporary Nordic neighbourhood bistro in Nørrebro, while potted trees, hanging plants, reclaimed wood and French windows create cosy nooks. The playful three-or-five-course set menus are peppered with foraged Danish ingredients and come with plenty of extras in between – warm bread with wheatgrass butter, seaweed and dill waffle topped with Danish crayfish, rhubarb doughnuts – making them brilliant value. Dishes might include smoked scallops with horseradish cream, white currants and dill oil followed by a choice between dried ramson-flecked chicken schnitzel in creamy garlic sauce or grilled beef tenderloin with fermented black garlic purée and Madagascan pepper and morels sauce. Finish with the likes of rhubarb and cardamom parfait, vanilla tuilles and warm caramel. The matching wine pairing is generously poured and for an extra 100 krona you can bookend your meal with a glass of crémant and coffee and petits fours to finish. cofoco.dk Moveat – for affordable restaurant hopping Connect several eclectic stops in a great-value, self-guided restaurant hopping tour. Pick the neighbourhood, buy your ticket on the app (approx. £50) and choose your pace to hop between open sandwiches at quintessential delis, bitesize seafood dishes at new Nordic restaurants and slices at trendy pizza joints. The routes might take you along the city’s rectangular lakes, through Assistens Cemetery (where Hans Christian Andersen is buried) and down residential cobbled streets, making it a fresh way to explore the city’s eclectic neighbourhoods. moveat.co Lidkoeb – for cocktails Cool ‘cocktail house’ Lidkoeb is set back from busy Vesterbrogade (factor in time to find it!). Work your way up this three-storey building (previously a pharmacy) to the whisky den beneath the exposed beams of the attic, or stick to the lounge downstairs to watch mixologists create cocktails at a bar that spans the whole of one wall. Sink into a low, stylish chair by the fire to watch Nordic ingredients and local spirits being shaken into superb cocktails. To create Rimfrost, the braces-clad barman infuses Bulliet Rye whiskey with fresh dill and combines it with St. Germain elderflower liqueur and bitters then tops with Champagne. lidkoeb.dk Reffen – for street food Refshaleøen island is home to Copenhagen’s most vibrant street food market, a flock of sea containers strung together by colourful lights and Nordic flags. Reduce and reuse is the mantra here, so food businesses serve organic, local ingredients where possible to create globally inspired dishes. Apartamento 16 serves Italian charcuterie and wines amongst washing lines of jeans, Baobab use local vegetables to make hearty Gambian peanut stew, domoda, and Thrilla in Manila does a brisk trade in spicy Philippine skewers. There are also Nordic Hotdogs made with South Jutland sausages and Crispy Pig roast pork sandwiches for those in search of classic Danish street food. reffen.dk Hart Bageri – for sourdough treats This mini chain of artisan bakeries from Danish chef Richard Hart spotlights sourdough in innovative sweet and savoury treats. Try doorstopper Danish ham and cheddar rye sourdough sandwiches, seasonal custard-filled croissant tarts and rotating Danish pastries. Relax by the water in the branch in maritime district Holmen or on the cobbled street patio in Nørrebro. hartbageri.com Dyrehaven – for all-day casual dining With black leather booths, patterned tabletops lit by sunset-coloured lampshades and a wood-panelled bar this hip Vesterbro hangout has a distinctly retro vibe. On weekend nights the DJs come out and cocktails are served but visit during the day and you’ll be rewarded with generous smorrebrods, the Danish open sandwich. Try homemade rye piled high with new potatoes, smoked cheese mayo, crunchy asparagus, cucumber and crisp onions. Dyrehaven also does an epic Flaeskesteg – roast pork (complete with crackling) served with red cabbage, red onion and pickled gherkins on a toasted sesame-topped burger bun. Or, pop in for breakfast and start the day with a red grapefruit laced with ginger syrup and mint, or one of Denmark’s breakfast plates ­– avocado on malt bread with lime, olive, radish and fresh chilli, eggs Benedict and Icelandic skyr. dyrehavenkbh.dk Grød – for porridge and risotto bowls Grød is Danish for porridge, which is the speciality at this pared-back micro chain of restaurants. Go for breakfast and choose between oat porridge with caramel sauce, fresh apples and roast almonds or gluten-free acai-chia porridge made with almond milk and topped with fresh berries, nuts and organic skyr yoghurt. In the evening its custom-made ceramic bowls are filled with comforting risotto. Our favourite is dyed red with beetroot, thickened with parmesan and served with finely sliced rainbow beetroot, whipped ricotta and fresh thyme. If it’s a nice day, sit outside on wooden picnic-style benches. groed.com Vækst – for a great-value plant-forward tasting menu Nordic veggies and herbs are at the heart of the menu at this plant-filled restaurant, where – to reinforce the message – tables are centred around a greenhouse that’s been constructed inside the building. The three-course tasting menu is excellent value, the dishes peppered with amuse bouches and palate cleansers to extend the experience. Sourdough with lovage butter kicks things off, followed by chive oil-drizzled mushroom soup, pickled celeriac and lemon cream, and pan-fried halibut on parsley root purée with mussel sauce. Mains are accompanied by notable sides such as mash with smoked cheese and fried buckwheat, and crunchy green beans, green tomatoes and buttermilk dressing. cofoco.dk Hija de Sanchez – for tacos Rosio Sanchez is a Mexican, Noma-trained chef who’s now running a taco stand. This popular street food spot in Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne covered market does wonders with corn tortilla tacos ­– think spit-roast pork with little chunks of pineapple and onion topped with coriander, roast chicken in a rich chocolaty mole sauce, or grilled two month-aged, Mexican-style grilled cheese (albeit made from organic Danish milk) served with punchy guacamole and spicy morita chilli salsa. For dessert try Mexican ‘paletas’ – ice pops that combine Danish and Mexican ingredients (frozen avocado with freeze-dried raspberries, hibiscus tea with mezcal and oialla chocolate with Lakrids liqourice), or sip on a silky Aztec hot chocolate. hijadesanchez.dk Café det Vide Hus – for ice cream A favourite of Noma chef Rene Redzepi, Café det Vide Hus is a tiny spot with a view of fairytale Rosenborg castle and a penchant for locally foraged finds. Such special ingredients are used to compliment homemade ice creams – go for sea buckthorn sorbet dipped in white chocolate or elderflower ice cream dipped in chocolate and bee pollen. On cooler days, climb up the spiral staircase and find a seat in the snug lounge to sip on coffee from Copenhagen’s renowned roaster, The Coffee Collective. facebook.com/detvidehus Torvehallerne – for market shopping For high-end groceries and snacking, spend some time in Copenhagen’s biggest food market. Over 60 stalls sell Danish produce (local seafood and meats, open sandwiches, pastries, regional akvavits) as well as Mediterranean delicacies, exotic spices and freshly brewed coffee. The weekend crowds create a welcome buzz. Mikeller – for craft beers When maths and physics teacher Mikkel Borg Bjergso taught two of his students to brew they ended up taking the lesson so strongly to heart that they opened this seriously cool bar, with a staggering 40 micro-brewed beers on tap, along with over 200 bottled beers from Mikkeller, To Ol and other small-batch breweries. Shiny turquoise floors reflect onto bespoke pale wooden structures that create intimate corners and cubbyholes in the otherwise clean-lined canvas of the original Nørrebro bar. mikkeller.dk Kiin Kiin Bao Bao – for Thai tapas Danish chef Henrik Yde has recently opened a wallet-friendly alternative to his restaurant Guldbergsgade Kiin Kiin (the first Thai restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star). This more laid-back venture is a shimmering room that blends Thai and Danish design: soft grey walls, sleek tables and chairs, rounded sofas, globe lanterns and intricate teak panelling. The menu is tapas-style and there are over 25 small plate options – try the classic milky, fluffy bao with braised pork, peanuts and sweet hoisin sauce; a bowl of crispy kale chips with vibrant miso and pea mayo; fat, creamy Norwegian scallops in a mild ginger broth; and the 62 degrees egg, so silky and soft, with XO sauce and dried shrimp. Barabba – for late-night Italian Local chefs head to this buzzy Italian restaurant for post-shift plates of pasta, punchy cocktails and natural wines. The vibe is shabby chic, with ornate chandeliers on the rough walls, antique dressers on terrazzo tiles and wooden tables and chairs laid with vases of white flowers. Try silky folds of pappardelle with rich hare ragu, juniper and taggiasche olives, gnocchi with wild mushrooms or spaghettone with savoy cabbage and mussels. For a more substantial meal, follow your pasta course with a small but perfectly formed piece of brill, cooked on the bone with quince and citrus cream. Then finish with a crunchy, chocolatey semi-frozen hazelnut “rocher” with sour cherry coulis. The kitchen stays open until 2am with a late-night menu and there are regular negroni-fuelled parties, so keep an eye on Barabba’s Instagram feed to be kept in the know. barabba.dk Now you've got your list of restaurants and places to eat in Copenhagen, check out where to stay below... Where to stay in Copenhagen All hotels have been chosen and reviewed independently by our expert locals. Hotel Alexandra – for design-led comfort Double room from £97 per night based on two people sharing; check availability at booking.com, Michelin Guide For a primer on mid-century Danish design that’s almost as good as a trip to Copenhagen’s Design Museum, book a room at this stylish hotel. The hotel owner has curated pieces built in Denmark in the 1950s and ‘60s, so the bedrooms’ wooden floorboards and large windows form the perfect backdrop to a collection of rattan headboards, graphic turquoise armchairs and wooden writing desks. Larger suites are like decorative tributes to individual designers – one is dominated by Jens Risom’s sleek sofa and wooden geometric side table, the Verner Panton suite comes complete with a groovy orange living area. The stylish lobby area doubles up as an all-day hangout, with an honesty bar, complimentary wine hour and a record player ready to play the hotel’s selection of vinyl. In the morning, head down to connected bistro Godtfolk and create your own breakfast wheels from the continental buffet laid out in the conservatory – dill gravalax, Danish sausages, holey cheeses and slices of seeded, malty rye. The hotel is perfectly situated for exploring all of Copenhagen’s foodie neighbourhoods in one weekend, with Vesterbro’s Meatpacking District 15 minutes’ walk West, Torvehallerne food market a brisk 10-minute walk through Ørsteds Park, and Tivoli and the train station less than 500m away. Central Hotel og Café – for pint-sized café chic Rooms from £285 per night based on two people sharing; check availability at Central Hotel og Café The first floor of this wonky one-up, one-down building is home to a single-bedroom hotel. The pint-sized coffee shop below doubles up as the reception; pop in for a Risteriet coffee, old-fashioned milkshake or thick hot chocolate in the morning before mooching over to sister café Granola for brunch. Coffee aromas follow you upstairs to a matchbox room, perfectly befitting of a hotel in Hans Christian Anderson’s hometown. Oak beams, dark green walls and a traditional writing desk add to the hygge vibe. Luxurious finishes are kept local – Geismars bed linen is woven in a nearby mill, bespoke Tromborg toiletries await in the tiny bathroom, and contemporary art by Danish artists hangs from sage green wallpaper. Borrow a yellow bike free of charge to explore trendy neighbourhood Vesterbro. Nimb – for luxury set in the grounds of Tivoli Gardens Rooms from £390 per night based on two people sharing; check availability at booking.com, Hilton, Mr & Mrs Smith This five-star luxury hotel is nestled on the edge of the iconic Tivoli Gardens theme park, and reservations come with free access to Tivoli Gardens and all its rides. Original Moorish-inspired palatial features intertwine with contemporary Scandinavian design to create a uniquely serene space adorned with chandeliers, trickling fountains and antique furniture. The original façade’s signature starry pattern is worked into trellising and even woven through bedding and ties of the attentive concierges. All but one of the 38 rooms face onto Tivoli Gardens, and most have balconies and sweeping terraces to soak up the fairground vibes. Each is unique while consistently catering to every luxury, including four-poster beds, two-person Agape bathtubs and complimentary danish treats in the mini bar. A large brasserie-style space serves Scandi French fusion, with prime positioning to watch Tivoli’s Friday night concerts, while old school frills and seasonal smørrebrøds are served park-side at Fru Nimb. Set on its own boating lake in the gardens, The Japanese Pagoda curates a rotation of residencies from Michelin-starred restaurants across the world, a recent gem being Nicolas Min Jørgensen’s greenhouse-like Tri perched in the Danish North Sea fjords. Amble back beneath twinkling lights to Nimb’s ballroom turned bar for fairytale themed cocktails, such as forest margaritas laced with pine tree liqueur, sipped by the striking fireplace. First published January 2017, updated November 2019 and June 2025
Basque cuisine: how to cook like a local
Celebrate the unique flavours of the Basque Country, from melt-in-the-middle tortilla to perfectly charred steak served with sweet, smoky Piquillo peppers
Want to learn about the cuisine of the Basque Country? Discover what makes this unique cuisine special, plus three recipes to try, from María José Sevilla. For more global recipes, check out our guides to Grenadian cuisine and Neapolitan cuisine. Recipes extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cocina-Vasca-Recipes-traditions-Cookbooks/dp/1788796772/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3AK5J1ULCLYM5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.q6ckSY2TLVS5b6M8tHQ1I429WdmAmvxT8jlJUoy_GGYfhzJw0lJeR-pKWnW2SSnC2osk7dX4I9kLXy-RAfF9xAoYMQ2-HbNz8BJa4ginVTCt-rcmGCe1ndtUVMGellOgObVkCQNNkMxDxD7ZV5_yMbaTaDRhusnrNAS3xkPnuG4MCetc94OUTC8qH7nnM3lpltFUCZ4BBU_g9B2Y6IT0qSfjfOgGFZtaqBigeZsyf9M.Rgq03CvX_Fx7RtPpM-k9JllmsyX9lkUZuXgf7wEe5II&dib_tag=se&keywords=La+Cocina+Vasca&qid=1749563399&s=books&sprefix=la+cocina+vasca%2Cstripbooks%2C182&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-265631" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">La Cocina Vasca (£22, Ryland Peters & Small). Photographs: Clare Winfield, © Ryland Peters & Small. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. Basque cuisine Basque Spain, known as Euskadi, includes the provinces of Vizcaya, Guipúzcoa, Alava and parts of Navarra. The land of the Basques, Euskal Herria, actually continues much further along the coast, right through to the Pyrenees and into the French provinces of Lower Navarre, Labourd and Soule. Basques simply love cooking, as much as to please themselves as to please others. The vegetables most strongly associated with the cuisine today are fresh, dried or preserved Basque peppers, both red and green. There are fresh or dry red Choriceros, cured or fresh green Piparras, Lodosa peppers (usually canned), hot red Guindillas or sweet Pimientos del Cristal, plus the French Piment d’Espelette. Basques also adore peas, especially the minute ones known as Lagrima (tear drops). Salads are often present on the Basque table, prepared with the popular Cogollos, which are Little Gem lettuces from Tudela; Escarola (Frisée or curly Endive); and young cartoons, which are particularly delicious in Navarra. Large cabbages that decorate traditional vegetable gardens are loved by everyone, especially when served with alubias negras (black beans), morcilla (black pudding) and Piparras. Due to the capricious weather conditions in ‘green’ Spain, tomatoes grown in the Basque Country can have an unbelievable taste. They’re served at restaurants and pintxo bars with very little preparation – just a little salt and olive oil. Basques love fish served with a good sauce and there are four main classics: the vibrant green salsa verde (parsley sauce), complex red vizcaína (red onion and pepper sauce), amazing light yellow pil pil (olive oil and garlic sauce) and intense black sauce made with squid or cuttlefish ink. Lamb holds a special place in Basque cuisine, too – since ancient times mountains and valleys everywhere seem to be populated by hundreds of little white dots, which are the sheep feeding on rich pastures. When socialising in bars, Basques drink cider and beer. They drink red wine, mostly from Rioja and Navarra, and, of course, the delightfully fresh and slightly acidic txakoli white wine, produced in the areas of Orduña and Orozko in Vizcaya, and on the hilly slopes of Getaria in Guipúzcoa. María's recipes from the Basque Country Sardinillas con guacamole en tostada (Guacamole on toast with silver sardines) Basque Country is a major producer of canned fish, including tuna, anchovies, sardines and sardinillas, which are tiny silver sardines – a true delicacy. Although guacamole is Mexican in origin, it’s been used frequently in the preparation of pintxos since the 80s. If you can’t find a Serrano pepper, use any other similar variety of green chilli pepper. Don’t make the guacamole too far in advance, as it will discolour. Tortilla de patatas, cebolla morada y pimiento rojo (Potato omelette with caramelised red onion and red pepper) There is no traditional way of cutting the potatoes when cooking a tortilla. You can slice them thinly, as I do, thickly or even dice them. The potatoes should never be parboiled but rather gently braised in plenty of olive oil along with, in this case, the onion and red pepper. The final result is not at all greasy, as most of the oil is drained off before the beaten egg is added. As the oil remains clean and very flavoursome, it can be reserved and used once more for another dish. Chuleta a la parrilla con piquillos confitados (Charcoal-grilled T-bone steak with confit Piquillo peppers) In the Basque Country, parrillero and parrillera are the men and women in charge of the grill. They are professionals working in asadores (restaurants that specialise in grilling meat or fish) as well as sidrerías (cider houses). I’ve eaten superb chuleta (T-bone steak) in these places, grilled to perfection over hot coals. You can cook a perfect chuleta on your own barbecue, as long as you follow my directions to the letter. The best steaks come from cows that are six or seven years old and should be 5cm thick, cut in a perpendicular way to ensure the same thickness at both ends. Once grilled and rested, cut the meat into thick slices and serve with potatoes, salad and roasted Piquillo peppers. I wrap a couple of potatoes in foil, bake them in the embers, then serve these with a little sea salt and extra-virgin olive oil.
12 foodies share the European holiday destinations you need to know about
Expert food writers, authors and chefs share the culinary hotspots that should be on every food lover's radar
Dreaming of the ultimate European foodie getaway? Dodge the tourist traps and prepare for a food-packed adventure with the help of olive's favourite food writers, authors and chefs. Uncover the continent's hidden gems and must-visit foodie hotspots, from the the sun-drenched coasts of southern Italy, to the mountainous shores of Montenegro and beyond. For more travel inspiration, check out our guides to 10 of the most unique walking holidays for foodies, discover 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world and disconnect in 10 breathtaking treehouse hotels in Europe for foodies. Plus, discover 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting. Montenegro – Alissa Timoshkina, chef, food writer, historian and campaigner "Thanks to my parents relocating to Montenegro about 10 years ago, it's become another home. I've been at least 20 times now. One time, as we were driving around, we accidentally wandered into this little eco-hotel called Klinci Village in an olive grove on top of a mountain overlooking the sea. There's a little restaurant there, catering to maybe five or six tables. You can just show up there anytime, and they make a dobrodošli welcome platter laden with simple bread, local olive oil from the grove, olives, charcuterie, cheese and honey. It's a lovely little platter and you sit in a little terrace overlooking gorgeous views of the olive grove, the mountains and sea. That's literally my heaven." Check out our guide to Balkans cuisine for Balkan recipe inspiration. Antwerp – Gurd Loyal, olive columnist and trends expert "Belgium is becoming extremely cool, and what I love about Antwerp is that it is a city that champions plant-based and seafood cooking in a way that I've not really seen. It has these extraordinary restaurants, both from a fine dining perspective but also from a street food perspective, that are championing the Belgian coast. I never think of Belgium as having a coast, but it absolutely does. It sounds strange, but I always think of Belgium as being landlocked. It's absolutely not, and there are some incredible culinary creatives there who are doing all sorts of things. What's interesting about Belgium is that it's kind of at the crossroads of Europe, literally, in that it has a real Scandinavian energy, but also a French-Italian energy because it's in the middle of everywhere. You've got these incredible new chefs who are basically remixing French-Italian flavours into a kind of Nordic sensibility. It's a really exciting place and it's a beautiful city." Georgia – Helen Graves, author food writer and live fire expert "One place that really, really blew my mind is Georgia. I went there probably 10 years ago, and I still think about it all the time. The food is just spectacular, because it's this combination of Middle Eastern vibes, but also it's got Turkey next to it and then it's got Russia, and it's got all these influences that makes the cuisine completely unique. It's got dumplings and salads and all the things that you find in other cuisines, but they're just done in such a different way, and they have these herbs and produce that grows there that you just don't find anywhere else. So, I still go on about it all the time. There are a few Georgian restaurants that have sprung up in the UK, but I feel like it should be having more of a moment. There’s a really good place in Peckham I went to recently. It's a Georgian wine bar called 80-20 Wines, owned by a lady who used to be an ambassador for Georgia. She imports all these incredible Georgian wines. If you live anywhere that has a Georgian restaurant, please go there and check it out. See our round-up of the best Georgian wine as well as 10 things we love about Georgian food. Puglia – Anna Shepherd, food author "I rather eccentrically planned a trip to Puglia in Italy around a taralli festival. Taralli are little savoury biscuits that look like tiny little doughnuts, and they tend to be filled with fennel seeds. The dough itself is made with lots of olive oil and white wine, which is why they have that really short, crunchy character. Turns out the festival was by invitation only, so we didn't get to go. But, I did have some incredible meals there. We went to Gallipoli, which is an old port town, obviously more known for the battle. But it's this amazing, vibrant little island just on the coast. You could go to the fish market and all the fish sellers have their wares displayed, and you can eat your fish raw, cooked or grilled. We were sort of peer-pressured into trying some raw things, which I normally would steer away from, but we had raw sea urchin, just straight out of the sea. We also had many delicious vegetables on the trip, things like cima di rapa, which is grown there. Cima di rapa looks a bit like a more tender purple sprouting broccoli, but I think it's technically a turnip top. They also have amazing varieties of chicory, which are served raw and cooked. I've never eaten so well in my life. It was an amazing trip." See our round-up of 10 things we love about Puglian cuisine. Porto – Sabrina Ghayour, food writer "I love Portugal. Lisbon is beautiful and it's got loads of food, but I think everybody knows that. But Porto – in the opposite end of the country in the north – is very different, a little bit colder, but it’s fantastic. I love the lay of the land there. I love the food there. They've got some wicked, crazy food traditions there, including what can only be described as a beast of a sandwich called a francesinha. I still fail to know exactly what it is, but it's like every meat known to man plus fish in this huge, cheese-topped, tomato-soaked bread. It sounds minging; I'm making it sound really bad, but it's pretty epic. I really like Porto, and I love how cheap and cheerful Portugal is compared to so many other European countries. Also, there is no shortage of natas, for those custard tart junkies." Find out where locals eat and drink in Porto. Edinburgh – Erika Haigh, sake sommelier "In terms of that surprising factor, I hope I don't offend any Scottish people. But a few years ago, when I first moved to the UK, I went to Edinburgh. I thought it was going to be haggis and fish and chips, because I really was new to the UK and I had no idea. But I went to Edinburgh and I just remember being surprised, because now there are famous restaurants like The Little Chartroom, which I went to on that trip. So many places had this kind of farm-to-table concept, which again now is so common anywhere you go. But this was a few years ago. This wasn't something that every restaurant had emphasised, at least in London. But I found that in Edinburgh and the places we went to, there was an emphasis on this. I just remember every meal being really delicious, and it wasn't something I was expecting." For more recommendations see our round-up of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. Nuremberg – Letitia Clark, chef and author "I'm going to choose Nuremberg in Germany. I worked with a German chef and he persuaded me to go to the Christmas market there. I wasn't really sure what to expect, but we just had the best time – you sort of wander around these little Christmassy stalls and they have amazing Christmas baubles. Then there's lebkuchen, this little chocolatey ginger biscuit, and all these very traditional German foods, which I knew nothing about, I was completely ignorant about. But, we ate these amazing potato rosti that they serve with apple sauce. Then, there's the glühwein, a spiced hot wine. We also went to this little restaurant slightly out of the city, where we ate roast goose with dumplings. It was honestly one of the nicest things I've ever eaten in my life. The gravy was incredible and the goose was really tender, and it had these really fluffy, delicious dumplings with it. And sauerkraut with everything, of course." Sicily – Milly Kenny-Ryder, food and travel writer and photographer "It's not that revelatory, but I love Sicily. I loved finding out and experiencing the granita and brioche for breakfast, which I've never had anywhere else in the world, and yet it's so much part of the culture there. This year, I am hoping to go to Sardinia and I'm also going to Turin, which I recently found out is the home of vermouth, which I had no idea about, and Athens as well. I do try to do research, and I have lists on my phone and folders of places that caught my eye over the years that I can always go back to. But, also my general layout of a weekend trip is there'll be one speciality coffee shop that I will pinpoint, that I will go to first thing on the Saturday morning, and provided I like it, which I normally do, I'll ask the owners or the people making the coffee where they like to go. It's really worked for me, because they're normally locals. They've got similar tastes to me. Then I go from there, and each place that I go to, I gather their recommendations." Check out 10 things we love about Sicilian food. Amsterdam – Jess and Jo Edun, owners of The Flygerians "Amsterdam is absolutely sensational. We've got friends there and there's so much beautiful food there as well. I think in terms of the beautiful, traditional food that Amsterdam has to offer, there's loads of that there. But there are also great restaurants that are from Nigeria as well. They've also got Thai restaurants that are brilliant there, too. It's easy to go to for a quick weekend break. We also love Berlin. It's another home-from-home in terms of its culture, diversity and social inclusion, where you'll find Caribbean, African, Nigerian and Gambian food in the food markets." Discover the best restaurants in Amsterdam and Berlin. Lisbon – Aishling Moore, Irish chef and author "Lisbon would probably be my go-to place. Lots of canned fish and great restaurants and little cafés. I think it's the perfect kind of summer, spring, early autumn place to go because it has city and it’s close to the water. There's a restaurant there called Prado, and we ordered everything on the menu five times. It was one of the best meals I've ever had. You know when you're just sharing loads of food and the service was great, but the food was just really ingredient-driven, with not a lot done to it, just really good products from local growers and producers. That makes the best food, so I loved it. It was a casual restaurant with beautiful decor, right in the centre. And then, we went out and went for a party afterwards." Find out where the locals eat and drink in our Lisbon foodie guide. Athens – Ali Dunworth, writer, journalist and events curator "I've been a long-time fan of going to Greece. I used to go every summer when I was younger, to the islands, and we would arrive in Athens but get out of there as quickly as possible. It was just in and out. Last year, I went to Athens and thought, this is really cool. As a foodie city, it's incredible. It's like Berlin, but nicer and warmer. If you're going for your souvlaki or gyros, it'll cost around three euros, and you're getting a cold can of beer with that. There's one place called Kosta that everybody queues for; you have to queue for around 40 minutes, but it's so worth it. The owner has a tomato sauce that he makes that’s different to other places, but that's worth queuing for. We went to a place called Wine and Brine; we had pasta and they have an amazing wine selection – Greek wine, I absolutely love. I went to another place in Athens called Pharaoh. I love to eat the classic Greek dishes, but here it's like the grandmother is cooking, but with a modern twist. I love Greek people. People who work in Greece and hospitality are always really sound." Read our guide to the best restaurants in Athens for more recommendations. Ticino – Kate Hall, food author "I had to think back a little bit for this one, because my travels are pretty limited. I went with a friend a few years ago to Ticino in the south of Switzerland, the Italian part of Switzerland. I can still taste the tomatoes in the caprese salad. I remember sitting and having this meal and thinking ‘this is what it's supposed to taste like’. I was a hideously fussy eater as a child, so my palate was very limited. Going to somewhere where it was just so beautifully ripened and so perfectly served, I was like, oh, this is what it's about, I get it now." Krakow – Ren Behan, author and food writer "I would always say Krakow. That's my go-to for a foodie break. I've had some great trips there, especially in the winter for the Christmas markets. Easter is also really nice. They have a pierogi festival as well in Krakow, which is amazing. Lots of bakeries and great food markets to explore."
10 breathtaking treehouse hotels in Europe for foodies
Experience incredible views, gourmet food hamper deliveries and total peace with these eco-friendly luxury treehouse stays across the UK and Europe
Go off the grid with our pick of Europe’s best eco-friendly treehouse stays. From Scandi-chic cabins in Finnish forests to sun-dappled lodges tucked into Slovenian hillsides, these sky-high hideaways offer an enticing way to reconnect with nature in style, without compromising on creature comforts. For more travel inspiration, check out our guide to the best European hidden gem hotels, cabin breaks in the UK or health retreats to try. For unspoilt gems, read our guide to 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting. Best treehouse hotels in Europe The Treehouses at Lanrick, Scotland Head deep into the Scottish woodlands for an off-the-grid escape at The Treehouses at Lanrick, just a few miles from Trossachs National Park. Designed by local couple Simon and Louisa Dickson, these five luxury lodges are built from locally sourced timber and shaped by a strong eco ethos. Inside, it’s rustic meets refined: expect log-burning stoves, upcycled furnishings, soft linen bedding and Scandi-style decor. Outside, copper tubs and Weber BBQs sit on private treetop terraces, perfect for slow evenings in nature. Guests can personalise their stay with a hamper of locally sourced goods from the nearby farm shop, including ready meals like steak pie or butter chicken curry, plus vegetarian and vegan options. For something a little stronger, Deanston Distillery is just a five-minute drive away – ideal for a warming dram after a day in the woods. Check rates and availability at lanricktreehouses.co.uk Mallinson’s Woodland Retreat, Dorset Located in an Area of Outstanding Beauty in the Dorset countryside, Mallinson’s Woodland Retreat is an escape into nature with a luxury twist. Built by founder and trained cabinet maker Guy Mallinson, the retreat features three RIBA-award-winning treehouses, each with its own distinctive charm. We love the unique features such as the circular open-plan design in the Woodsman’s Treehouse, complete with rooftop sauna and outdoor tree shower. There are no TVs on site, but every treehouse is kitted with amenities including a hammock and outdoor hot tub for proper relaxation and restoration in the woods. Guests can take advantage of the wood-fired pizza oven for an alfresco dinner. There's a local farmshop for food shopping and takeaway. Or, as a break from self-catering, make the 20-minute drive to River Cottage Kitchen for its seasonal feasts using local, organic and wild ingredients, all served in an 18th-century barn. Check rates and availability at mallinson.co.uk Squirrels Nest Treehouse, Wales Retreat into the Welsh countryside for a getaway at Squirrels Nest Treehouse. Set on a 130-acre working family farm and enveloped by the 900-acre Maelinaidd Hill, this hideaway exudes rustic charm in an idyllic setting. Each of the three treehouses has been designed by owner and carpenter John, who’s brought his knowledge of craftsmanship to life with locally sourced timber – oak, larch and western red cedar – colourful interiors and large glass windows that frame the picturesque countryside. From taking an afternoon siesta on a hammock elevated on stilts, to soaking in a private outdoor hot tub with a view, there does not seem to be a shortage of ways to unwind. In-treehouse massage appointments can also be arranged for those looking to make the most of their countryside escape. Dining options are just as plentiful here: there's a curated menu of hampers that showcase the best of Welsh treats, including a generous breakfast option packed with local goodies and homemade bread. Firepits, BBQs and pizza ovens are also available for a bit of alfresco cooking. Or, order in from Llatho Kitchen, which delivers freshly made platters, cakes and bites straight to your treehouse door. Check rates and availability at squirrels-nest.co.uk Pella Roca Spa cabins, France Just over an hour from Toulouse, Pella Roca Cabanes & Spa is an eco-luxe retreat designed for embracing nature and wellness in the French countryside. Set atop a rocky plateau on a truffle estate, its four cabins are designed with Scandi accents and dressed in neutral linens with bohemian touches. Each cabin comes with its own private Nordic SKARGARDS hot tub, a sauna and hammock, all perfectly positioned to take in the sweeping views of the Quercy region. Food is a highlight here, too: Pella Roca provides homemade meal baskets to order, made using organic local ingredients and a zero-waste philosophy. The breakfast basket is included in the stay, and is laden with honey from the site's own hives, plus fresh juice, pastries, house-made jams and muesli with yogurt. Brunch or three-course dinner baskets on the treehouse terrace are available for add-ons for those who simply want to unwind in their cocoon of calm. Otherwise, head to the nearby village farmers’ markets to gather seasonal produce and regional wines for a self-catered feast. Check rates and availability at en.pella-roca.com Treehotel, Sweden Venture into the Norrland Forest in Swedish Lapland, and you may start to think your eyes are playing tricks on you when you spot a saucer-shaped UFO suspended among the trees. Founded in 2010 by Kent and Britta Landvall and helmed by Jonas Olsson and Hannah Wennebro Olsson since 2022, the Treehotel is an invitation to immerse yourself in nature and connect to the landscape, with eight playful treerooms designed by leading Scandinavian architects. Each cabin maintains its own architectural identity. Some blend into their surroundings, like the Mirrorcube, which reflects the pine trees in all directions, or the Bird’s Nest, which is camouflaged by twigs. Others stand out boldly, like the Biosphere, which is studded with wooden birdhouses. Interiors are pared-back but very functional, which helps direct the focus outside. Meals are served at nearby Britta’s Guesthouse – a contrast with its vintage Swedish decor and home-style atmosphere – with a menu that focuses on local delicacies and micro-seasonal ingredients. Dinner might feature just-caught Arctic char or moose fillets, depending on season. There's also an option to dine under the stars on a frozen lake to fully embrace the surrounding Swedish landscape. From £511 per night; check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or treehotel.se Conversas de Alpendre, Portugal For a retreat that offers the best of both coast and countryside, check into Conversas de Alpendre, a family-run boutique hotel tucked away in Portugal’s Eastern Algarve. Just a 10-minute drive from the cobbled streets of historic Tavira, the hotel offers traditional rooms and suites along with a showstopping treehouse that sits over six meters high atop a carob tree. The treehouse boasts two private terraces, with sweeping views of the ocean on one side and the countryside on the other. Inside, the pared-back interiors allow the floor-to-ceiling windows to emphasise the landscape. The food here leans into its Portuguese roots with hints of neighbouring Spanish influences, and is based on local, seasonal ingredients. Breakfast runs at a gentle pace and is served until late in the day, with fresh bread, regional cheeses, homemade jams and local fruit on offer. Complimentary homemade cake is available daily. Come evening, a set 'surprise menu' is an option – a different three-course meal each night, featuring dishes like slow-cooked beef brisket, fresh fish and traditional desserts like arroz doce, a Portuguese rice pudding. Guests can also request special dinners, including private or themed meals, and the hotel can help arrange visits to local producers or food markets to explore the Algarve’s culinary traditions. Check rates and availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or en.conversasdealpendre.com Loire Valley Lodges, France Set in Duporterie forest in the heart of France’s Loire Valley, Loire Valley Lodges is a collection of luxury cabins built on stilts among the trees. Each lodge features floor-to-ceiling windows and a private terrace that opens onto expansive woodland views. Contemporary art plays a central role here, with sculptures scattered across the forest grounds and each cabin individually styled around curated pieces by artists both local and international. Food is another highlight of the experience at Loire Valley Lodges. A breakfast basket is delivered to the base of the cabin and collected by the guest via a pulley system. Start the morning with fresh croissants and country bread, seasonal jams, forest honey and savoury options like gravlax salmon or cured ham. For dinner, the acclaimed on-site restaurant Ardent offers four- or eight-course tasting menus. Head chef Thomas Besnault prefers to work with hyper-local, forest-foraged ingredients, and sources from the estate’s own organic farm. For something more relaxed, guests can dine alfresco at the wood-fired outdoor kitchen, where a rotating line-up of guest chefs takes over each season. For the keen foodie traveler, activities like wine tastings, market visits and forest walks with a local forager can be arranged with the hotel. From £507; check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or loirevalleylodges.com Hiša Raduha, Slovenia Hiša Raduha, set in the quiet mountain village of Luče in Slovenia, offers a unique stay-and-dine proposition in its two modern treehouses tucked high among the trees (there are also rooms in the old stall and hayrack). The hotel and restaurant have been in the Breznik family since 1929 – Martina Breznik, the fourth generation cook, and husband Matjaž run the kitchen, while son Filip is the sommelier and daughter Kristina tends to guests. Central to the design at Hiša Raduha is the use of wood elements, both for the construction of the treehouses but also decor throughout the hotel and restaurant. The design is traditional Slovakian architecture paired with modern touches, using natural wood, glass walls and soft, neutral tones that seemingly help keep the guest’s focus on the forest and nature outside. Breakfast and dinner are served onsite at the highly rated restaurant, just steps from the treehouse. The seasonal tasting menus are built around local ingredients from the nearby forest, meadows and farms. Expect dishes like confit egg on yogurt cream with fried dandelion and buckwheat, as well as Khorason semolina with chicken and savoy cabbage, paired primarily with regional Slovenian wines. Check rates and availability at booking.com or raduha.com/en Pedras Salgadas Spa & Nature Park Look no further than the Pedras Salgadas Spa & Nature Park in the north of Portugal for a unique take on a treehouse experience. Within this protected reserve – also home to a storied thermal spa – are two striking pods built on stilts, designed by Portuguese architect Luís Rebelo de Andrade. Clad in slate and wood sourced from the region, they blend almost invisibly into the park’s landscape. Inside, the minimalist interior with a floor-to-ceiling square window frames the trees like living art, giving an almost futuristic vibe. A skylight above the bed is an invitation to stargaze under the calm Portuguese skies. Guests are encouraged to take in the park's natural surroundings – borrow one of the hotel’s bicycles and follow peaceful trails through the woodland, or raise your pulse on the high ropes in the treetop adventure course. Prefer to unwind? Slip into the on-site thermal spa, where massages and a restorative hammam session await. When hunger strikes, head to Casa de Chá, the onsite restaurant helmed by chef Vítor Matos. His menu celebrates Trás-os-Montes’ rich culinary heritage, with local gems like Alheira do Barroso (a rustic smoked sausage of pork, chicken and bread) and Bísaro smoked ham paired with Terrincho PDO cheese. Come evening, the cosy bar pours a curated wine list spotlighting the best bottles from Trás-os-Montes and the Douro Valley – ideal for toasting a day well spent in the trees. Check rates and availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or pedrassalgadaspark.com/en Arctic Treehouse Hotel, Finland Perched on a hillside in Rovaniemi, the Arctic Treehouse hotel offers a luxury retreat that is imbued by modern Scandinavian design and the allure of the Arctic wilderness. The rows of cube-shaped suites are raised above the ground on stilts, and angled to make the most of the serene forest views and the oft-sought Northern Lights. The interiors are awash with neutral tones, such as the pale blond wood walls and cream wool throws, that maximises the cosiness factor. The floor-to-ceiling glass wall at the foot of the bed is the central attraction of the room, perfectly framing the Finnish forest. Food is served at the onsite Rakas Restaurant, where local ingredients take centre stage. The menu highlights Arctic flavours in dishes like reindeer roast with Lappish potatoes, red wine sauce and lingonberry jam. A five-course tasting menu at Rakas Restaurant is also available for those looking for an immersive Finnish dining experience. The Arctic Circle has plenty to do between meals – the hotel offers complimentary summer and autumn activities, such as guided nature walks and forest yoga. But, with those views, heated floors in the suite and the possibility of spotting the aurora from bed, there’s also every reason to just stay put. Check rates and availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or arctictreehousehotel.com More travel reviews Best hotels in Wales Best city breaks in the UK Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish food trips 12 small towns across the UK every foodie should visit The UK's best pubs with rooms UK boutique hotels for food lovers 10 exciting UK city breaks for food lovers Best restaurants with rooms UK spa hotels for food lovers Best romantic UK hotels Best seaside staycations Best country hotels