Best restaurants in Porto, Portugal: where locals eat and drink
Discover our pick of where to eat and drink in Portugal's elegant second city, including local hotspots, chef favourites and new openings, plus a spotlight on a foodie neighbourhood
Looking for restaurants in Porto? Want to know where to eat in Portugal's northern city? Our local and in house experts share their insider tips for the best restaurants in Porto, along with where to find the best pastéis de nata (custard tarts), sandes de pernil (pork sarnies) and port houses. For more Portuguese travel inspiration, discover 10 things we love about the food from the Algarve and more of the best Portugal food trips. Next, check out our city guides to Málaga, Prague and Ljubljana. Our pick of Porto's best restaurants, cafés and bars Manteigaria – for custard tarts Fans of Lisbon’s cult custard tart shop, Manteigaria, will be pleased to know that Porto has its own branch now. Watch chefs work with spirals of butter and pastry (the kitchen walls are made entirely from glass), transforming them into crisp wheels that are then filled with cinnamon-spiked custard. Stand at the counter and down an espresso, or head to the adjoining minimalistic canteen to savour your tart with a glass of port. Pedro dos Frangos – for piri-piri chicken This long-running Porto favourite has been specialising in charcoal-roasted chicken since the 1960s. Whole birds are slowly spit-roasted over glowing coals until the skin turns burnished and crisp, then chopped into juicy portions and brushed with a punchy piri-piri sauce that delivers a gentle chilli kick. Order a whole chicken to share and it arrives piled onto a large platter with a generous heap of skinny fries and a simple lettuce and tomato salad to balance the richness. The dining room feels pleasingly old-school – wood panelling, tiled floors and tables packed with locals and families. Best of all, the value is exceptional: when we went, a whole chicken with fries and salad plus a bottle of vinho verde came in at around €27. pedrodosfrangos.pt A Casa Guedes – for sandes de pernil (Portuguese pork sandwiches) Queue alongside locals for this traditional tavern, if only for the crunchy bread rolls stuffed with juicy roast pork leg and a one euro glass of Portuguese wine (try the ever-so-slightly-sparkling vinho verde). Perch on one of four stools at the tiled counter and watch your roll come to life: the bread is cut and filled with a thick slice of cheese, then passed down to the tavern owner, who carves the pork and heaps slices of the stuff directly into your sandwich, with plenty of roasting juices. There’s a patio around the side for sun worshippers. facebook.com/a-casa-guedes O Forno do Leitão do Zé – for suckling pig If you want to try Portugal’s famous leitão (suckling pig), this understated spot across the street from the famous Mercado do Bolhão delivers it in gloriously crisp fashion. The pig is slow-roasted until the skin turns glassy and crackling, then chopped into generous chunks of tender meat and served simply with a pile of crunchy crisps. It’s rich, salty and incredibly moreish. Enjoy it with an ice-cold beer. The restaurant itself has a casual, bustling feel, with bright tiles and simple tables. The vibe is more fast food joint than restaurant, with a steady hum of locals dropping in for a plate and a drink. Portions are generous and the quality is excellent: when we visited a plate of suckling pig with crisps and two beers came to roughly €37. For a taste of a classic Portuguese speciality without the formality, it’s a great shout. leitaodoze.pt Flor dos Congregados – for traditional tavern vibes At Flor dos Congregados, every dish is cooked with passion. Try the terylene sandwich, a double-layered roast pork and ham affair that takes a full day to cook; or a slice of sericaia cake (a kind of egg pudding) and a glass of chilled port. 11 Travessa dos Congregados, 00 351 222 002 822 O Paparico – for fine dining with locals At O Paparico you have to knock on the door as you would at a friend’s house. Exquisite presentation and sophisticated cooking hint at Michelin aspirations, that locals kept secret as long as they could. Try the octopus ceviche with olive oil, onion and coriander. Taylor’s port house – for port tastings Clamber up the steep, cobble street on the Gaia side of the Douro river (accessed by crossing the Luís I bridge) to reach Taylor’s port house and its peaceful, rose-filled courtyard. Pull up a chair (mind the resident cockerel, who likes to make his voice heard occasionally) and order the Introduction to Taylor’s tasting flight – five ports ranging from simple white to easy-drinking LBV, brown tawny (popular amongst Brits) and a sought-after 20-year old vintage. taylor.pt Sol e Sombra Bifanas – for bifana sandwiches You probably won’t be able to order anything specific at this bar, perched on one of Porto’s many hills, unless you speak fluent Portuguese. But trust in the warm owner. He’ll bring you seriously cheap bifana bread roll sandwiches, filled with pork steak and cooking liquor – which simmers happily in the window, luring customers inside – flavoured with garlic, chilli and secret spices. Bacalhau (croquettes of salted cod) are pre-made and served cold, and even if you ordered a round of vinho verde (like we did), or bottles of Super Bock beer, you’d still have change from a €20 euro note. Look out for the caracóis (aka Portuguese snails), too! facebook.com/Sol-e-Sombra-Bifanas Taberna do Largo – for pre-dinner drinks and snacks At modern drinking hole Taberna do Largo, the menu takes you on a journey through Portugal via some of the country’s best small-scale producers. Local wines, cheeses, meats, olive oils and even teas are covered... order a Porto tonico while you choose. 69 Largo de São Domingos, 00 351 222 082 154 Cafetaria da Bolsa – for a traditional Portuguese meal With an unassuming frontage, other than a blackboard with that day’s specials, this small, family-run restaurant is the perfect spot if you want simply cooked fish and seafood at great prices. The tiny open-plan kitchen occupies one corner of the room, and from it comes giant prawns, still in their amber coats of armour, which arrive fighting for space on giant plates alongside hunks of garlic and bay leaves. Sweet clams, clattering in their pretty ivory shells, come cooked in garlic, chopped herbs and olive oil. Try the sardines, grilled and tender, with new potatoes, grilled peppers and onions, and chips on the side (because if you can’t double carb on holiday, when can you?). And, for something a little more unusual, try the salted codfish mashed with potatoes, boiled egg, black olives and plenty of herbs. Largo São Domingos 23, 4050-253 Porto Rosa et Al Townhouse – for brunch If you’ve already sorted your accommodation, it’s worth soaking up Rosa et Al’s chic and cosy vibe over brunch. 50 jars of tea (some made with herbs from the garden) cover a large serving table; you can choose your own Portuguese tinned cod or sardines; and there’s a dinky walled garden out back where you can sit around tiled tables, eating eggs with spruced-up sides and drinking freshly squeezed orange juice in the sunshine. rosaetal.pt PROVA – for wine There’s more to Portugal’s wines than port. Explore the distinct qualities of each of the country’s wine regions at this cosy bar, kicking off with a glass of dão and a carefully paired selection of cured meats. prova.com.pt Padaria Ribeiro – for traditional bakes Get some energy for sightseeing along Porto’s cobblestone streets with breakfast at Padaria Ribeiro, open since 1878. Order the pirilampos (little worm-shaped crunchy biscuits), or a lanche – a sandwich-like snack filled with ham, sausage and bacon. padariaribeiro.com Mercado do Bolhão – for market shopping The 19th-century Mercado do Bolhão dazzles with fruit and veg, cured hams, regional cheeses and freshly caught fish. Take a break at Bolhão wine house and snack on smoked ham from the butcher across the hall, sardines from the nearby fishing village of Matosinhos, and a glass of Moscatel do Douro. 1 Loja, 00 351 222 009 975 Tavi – for donuts and sunsets The juxtaposition of the Douro river and the Atlantic ocean make for some spectacular sunsets, especially in the Foz district. At the Parque da Cidade, this bakery is famous for its bolas de Berlim (custard-filled donuts) and ocean-view terrace. confeitariatavi.com Tascö – for pestiscos (tapas) With its stylish décor, great music, top-notch staff and traditional Portuguese food, this bar is wildly popular. Petiscos – tapas-like portions of larger dishes – are the thing here. Try the pataniscas (similar to a frittata, with cod or octopus), or moelas (stewed gizzards in a spicy tomato sauce). soldoutarena.com Porto neighbourhood spotlight: Bombarda art district (NW Cedofeita) Base yourself in Porto's arty network of cobbled streets brimming with independent shops, tavernas and bars. Book a room at boutique hotel, Rosa et Al, away from the tourist crowds but still within walking distance of the must-visit sites. Relax over breakfast in the hotel's walled garden, pop next door for coffee at Senzu Coffee Roasters or mooch up the road to popular brunch spot, Hakko. Browse the neighbourhood's galleries before seeking out sunny terraces to soak up the lively atmosphere – an olive tree provides shade for locals catching up over a glass of wine at Aduela, while Restaurante a Taska serves a great-value set lunch of hearty Portuguese traditional dishes under the jacaranda trees, which bloom bright purple during the spring months. No-frills bistros in the quieter residential streets include Adega Do Carregal and Lareira – Baixa, or chef Pedro Braga's Mito has a fancier feel for contemporary sharing dishes. Hole-in-the-wall Generosa Pão e Pizza churns out hunky cinnamon rolls and pizza slices all day, to provide sustenance before an evening of wines by the glass at local hub Genuíno wine bar. Stay in the neighbourhood: For a self-catering option, we're fans of this light, bright studio apartment, ideal for a couple. The highlight is the suntrap balcony with pretty views overlooking the Praça Carlo Alberto – perfect for people watching over a coffee during the day and watching the stars with a glass of wine at night. There is a compact kitchen with an induction cooktop for when you want to cook for yourself. From £89 per night, check availability at airbnb.com Where to stay in Porto Rosa et Al Townhouse This six-room hotel is a lesson in boutique design. Rooms blessed with original wooden floorboards, cornicing and sash windows that lead to balconies are made even more beautiful with claw-footed baths, contemporary furniture and local art. There's a trendy food shop that doubles with a reception desk. For breakfast and brunch, 50 jars of tea (some made with herbs from the garden) cover a large serving table; you can choose your own Portuguese tinned cod or sardines; and there’s a dinky walled garden out back where you can sit around tiled tables, eating eggs with spruced-up sides and drinking freshly squeezed orange juice in the sunshine. Doubles from £111, check availability at booking.com. Photographs by Getty, Alex Crossley and Laura Rowe Words by Alex Crossley, Keith Kendrick and Laura Rowe
My unexpected journey through Norway's fjords – saunas, seafood and striking views
Immerse yourself in nature and dive into the pristine, rugged beauty of Norway's western fjords
For more inspiring travel stories, check out a scenic journey through Cape Cod by bike, or the highlands of Peru by luxury sleeper train. Juggling a black coffee in one hand and a cinnamon bun in the other, I look out across the ripples our boat is creating as it moves through the reflective waters of Hjørundfjord, and realise why Norwegians head to the fjords for restoration. The quiet in this particular valley is paired with a soaring, rugged beauty. Around its edges it’s not unusual to see people diving into the water or climbing up its peaks. These wellness rituals – which encompass saunas too, of course – are themselves a wonderful match for a local food philosophy that brings people together over flatbreads, rich stews and bowls of cloudberries and lingonberries foraged on mountain hikes. For a true taste of Norway – and to get up close with the country’s enviable bounty of seafood – the striking western fjords are the place to explore. Whether you’re arriving via Oslo or from the UK (flights are around five hours via Amsterdam), the views heading into the colourful, art nouveau port town of Ålesund will awe you. It’s from the sky that you’ll get the truest sense of the place, gazing down at countless islands and islets in the Norwegian Sea below. It’s the ideal springboard for a five- to seven-day trip, hopping from place to place, immersing yourself in the sublime landscapes and raw beauty of this extraordinary part of the world. For a first meal that sets you up for a fjordic escape, book a table at Sjøbua. Taking over a handful of former fishing warehouses on the edge of the harbour, the restaurant leans into its history, serving some of the finest seafood on the west coast. One of the local catches is clipfish and you’ll find it here in its traditional form: salted and served as a croquette. The kitchen also crisps up its skin as an accompaniment to goat’s cheese and grayling roe. Order the prawns from nearby Midsund too. Naturally sweet and complex thanks to the ice-cold waters they’re caught in, they’re served simply with duxelles and burnt cream. The kitchen’s hero dish of halibut terrine with green peppers, white wine sauce and potato cakes is a polished take on a homely classic. The next morning is an opportunity for your first cinnamon bun fix. The best I tried were at Butikken, an eye-catching, sage-green coffee shop and deli. Part of the lovely harbour side Brosundet hotel, it’s the place to grab a box of buns to go as an afternoon indulgence, as breakfast at the hotel is enormous and varied. Among prettily presented cereals, meat, fish and bread, you’ll find the Norwegian delicacy of brunost, a brown cheese. Made from caramelised whey, brown cheese is more sweet than savoury, with a pleasant malty, fudgy taste that pairs well with waffles and raspberry jam. Another morning regular you’re likely to spy is kaviar, a salty roe paste that comes in a toothpaste-like tube. I squeezed some on half a hard-boiled egg but even the Norwegians around us admitted it’s an acquired taste. From then on I stuck to the waffles. From Ålesund, the closest fjord is Hjørundfjord, an uncrowded yet dramatic valley in the shadow of the towering Sunnmøre Alps. From a boat, the views impress whatever the weather: in winter the mountainsides transform into ski slopes, while spring and summer draw your eyes to the magnificent waterfalls and across to charming yellow and red wooden houses dotted along the water. The walking and biking routes along this valley are also much loved by locals – just remember to pack a bar of Kvikk Lunsj (which translates as ‘quick lunch’) in your coat pocket. Like a KitKat but better, it’s excellent hiking fuel. Spend time with some Norwegians and you’ll quickly see how much food – and the rituals around serving and entertaining – matters. Sometimes this is by necessity: the harsh winters mean there’s a reverence around hot drinks. These rituals are honoured at Union Øye, a wonderfully atmospheric 19th-century hotel at the end of one of Hjørundfjord’s passageways. As well as its gloriously grandiose interiors (think four-poster beds, roll-top baths and constant candlelight), a huge reason to stay here is its wooden sauna which floats on the fjord. Even in summer, diving into the water can be bracing – which makes the hotel’s signature hot chocolates, made with cognac, hand-whipped cream and squares of Freia Melkesjokolade chocolate, a welcome treat any day of the year. Come evening, its Palm Room bar serves a wonderfully sharp and bitter negroni, made using the local aquavit – a twist on tradition that’s well worth staying up late for. Another important stop-off around this part of Norway is Skarbø, a cider and cheese farm run by husband and wife team Kristine and Carlos. As the oldest daughter, Kristine inherited her family’s eighth-generation farm beneath Smørhylla mountain and she’s quietly set about turning its produce into an award-winning brand that’s now served in many of the fjords’ best restaurants and hotels. The farm shop is open year-round but in summer the pair hosts tours, cider tastings and tapas evenings at the farm. These are held in an atmospheric centuries old outbuilding with a grass roof. Before ducking through the door for lunch I spotted an unusual sculpture hanging on the side of the building. It turned out to be a curved rib of pork, air drying and aging ahead of a family celebration in a couple of months’ time. Inside, among antique crockery and farm tools, we ate steaming bowls of Kristine’s homemade cheese and cider soup. It was one of the most comforting things I’ve had in years and I regret not asking her for the recipe. If Sjøbua is the perfect start to a coastal escape, then The Boathouse is a fitting finale. Run by the team behind the fabulously cosy Storfjord hotel, this restaurant occupies a former hanger down by the fjord’s edge (you can work up an appetite by kayaking from the same dock earlier in the day). Open only on Friday evenings, its long-table group dinners are hosted by the hotel’s head chef Florian Harnisch, who cooks everything solo over an open hearth in front of you. And, wow, he can cook. On the night I dined he pulled together caviar and soured cream blinis; cooked oysters in cream and dill oil; langoustines in a deeply rich bisque topped with pickled pine shoots; bright scallops with cucumber and bergamot; and a fillet of reindeer served with jerusalem artichokes. Back up at the hotel’s main restaurant the fish soup and open prawn sandwiches served are just as refined in their simplicity – and its famed Sunday brunch tables are piled high with everything from gravlax to Norwegian-style fish tacos, all made with local catches. Trust me, after a meal here you’ll be grateful for the hotel’s variety of deep sofas and quiet corners. Your foodie adventure doesn’t have to end here. For a final bite you can order a traditional hot dog, complete with crispy onions and mayo, at Ålesund airport – and then buy all the Moomins biscuits, Minde banana chocolates and blocks of brown cheese you can stuff into your hand luggage. If this trip teaches you anything it’s that you should make snacking a sacred ritual back at home. 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Ljubljana's best restaurants: where to eat and drink in Slovenia's capital
Keep things local in the Slovenian capital with wild asparagus polenta fritters, nutty gelato and orange wines
Looking for the best restaurants in Ljubljana? Want to explore the best riverside bars and bistros in the Slovenian capital? Check out our guide below, then add on a few days exploring the mountain region of the Julian Alps. Chocolate box Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture, a river romantically spanned by pretty bridges and pedestrian- and bike-friendly policies make Slovenia’s capital city one of Europe’s most civilised. It’s also one of the continent’s most foodie destinations, with a position between the Alps and the Adriatic that lends the local cuisine both an excellent range of produce and a real variety of culinary influences. Ljubljana's best restaurants, bars and cafés Open Kitchen Market – for a taste of Slovenia Every Friday, from March to October, Ljubljana’s Pogačar Square comes to life as the city’s Open Kitchen Market. There’s a festival atmosphere beneath the shadows of the green-domed Ljubljana Cathedral, and all manner of vendors, from farms to gourmet restaurants, sell dishes and drinks for visitors to graze on. Sample vibrant pumpkin seed oil and Broken Bones gin (distilled with linden flowers and rosehip from Slovenia’s Karst region), or tuck into dishes from the country’s top restaurants – Gostilna Mihovec, Vander and JB Restaurant. Finish your visit like a local by stopping off at Jezeršek’s corner stall for comforting kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancakes), topped with apple, mixed berries or chocolate sauce. odprtakuhna.si Aftr – for relaxed bistro dinners Pops of fun adorn this lively bistro, popular with Ljubljana’s in-the-know crowd. Striking pop art provides a backdrop to high-top tables and a disco ball hangs from the exposed industrial ceiling. A bar stands centre stage, behind which fresh, sparkling Medot Brut 48, dry Klinec Malvazija and complex Movia Veliko Rdeče blend are poured along with seasonal cocktails. The succinct sharing plates menu includes squidgy potato focaccia with whipped shallot butter, spiced pine nut studded lamb tartare wrapped in fragrant shiso leaf bites and Adriatic red snapper with white asparagus beurre blanc, finished with soft serve of the day. aftr.si JAZ – for spotlighting Slovenian produce Highly acclaimed chef Ana Roš is the executive chef at this bistro-style spot overlooking leafy Knafljev passage. Playful creations showcase Slovenia’s rich bounty – Waldorf salad spotlights green apple, folds of pickled celeriac, walnut mousse, kefir milk and lovage oil, while sea bream ceviche is dressed with puffed buckwheat, popping peas and fermented citrus and strawberry water ponzu. jaz.anaros.eu Črno Zrno – for coffee Črno Zrno translates as ‘black bean’ and this hole-in-the-wall spot is a temple to just that. Alexander Niño Ruiz sources coffee beans from his native Colombia, roasts them at renowned Slovenian roaster Stow, then serves the resulting brews in his perfectly formed coffee shop. The space is enveloped in blue and white Valencian tiles – chat with local coffee geeks over a meticulously prepared pour-over inside, or sit in the sun next to painted wooden shutters. Alexander’s niche is cold brew: try it on the rocks in a wine glass, or as an addition to a funky non-alcoholic cocktail made with Ruiz’ grandmother’s elderflower syrup. crnozrno.com Pekarna Osem – for baked goods The minimalist decor at this artisan bakery allows its products to shine. Dedicated young baker Andrej Gerželj is on site every morning, from 5am, preparing dough for crunchy spelt baguettes intertwined with Slovenian Tolminc cheese, and flaky pastry ribbons sprinkled with chocolate beads. The open bakery at the back means you can watch perfectly formed balls of dough being transformed into golden loaves, their comforting aromas filling the space. pekarnaosem.com Suklje – for Slovenian wine With its vaulted ceilings, riverside terrace and 300-strong wine list, Suklje is the place to spend a few hours sipping local wines. There are 200 bottles from Slovenia alone – grapes include fruity sauvignon blanc from the north east, the south west’s rounded and woody rebula epoca, and blue frankish from Suklje’s own vineyard in the south east, bursting with leathery notes and, red currant aromas. To go with it, order a charcuterie board of salty, silky prosciutto and marbled salami from Slovenian Krškopolje pigs, alongside aged kosect cheese and French comté. winebar.suklje.com Gostlinca AS – for elegant seafood lunches An atmospheric brick-lined room and sweeping, walnut tree shaded terrace are both desirable spaces to choose between at one of the oldest restaurants in town. The seafood-forward menu features grilled shrimp, tuna tartare and Adriatic monkfish, alongside pulled veal cheek and sliced roast beef tagliata baked on an open-fire grill. Plus walnut, blueberry or strawberry cake for dessert depending on the season. The extensive wine list is handily categorised by style – rich white, orange, fresh red – then divided into regional varieties including Stajerska, Vipavska Valley and Goriska Brda. gostilnaas.si Vigò – for gelato The queue for this popular gelato spot can stretch all the way to Ljubljana’s famous three bridges. The pull? Indulgent cooling concoctions to rival those of neighbouring Italy. Try the Vigo (fresh mascarpone, chocolate, hazelnuts and Nutella) or lemon tiramisu with mascarpone and chocolate sauce from a tap. The vegan sorbet is some of the best we’ve tried – rich dark chocolate laced with aromatic dried orange pieces. Order a cone to go and mooch through the surrounding streets as you lick it, or bask in the sun out on Vigò’s large terrace. vigo-icecream.com Moji Štruklje – for traditional dumplings Located in the arcade of Plečnik covered market on Ljubljana’s Pogačar Square, this family-run café specialises in štruklje dumplings. Traditional fillings range from tarragon to buckwheat with walnuts and sweet, raisin-flecked cottage cheese. More contemporary combinations include meat-pork crackling, mango-yogurt and pistachio-pumpkin seeds. Pair with a local draft beer (Union or Lasko are popular choices) or a craft pick – Yes Boss!, The 3rd PILL and Black Aurora – and soak up the bustling city vibes. moji-struklji.si Tabar – for Slovenian tapas Tabar, its chairs spilling out beneath sycamore trees, forms part of a buzzy courtyard set back from the city’s river. It specialises in Slovenian small plates – beef tartare with burnt aubergine, octopus with “half way” kimchi (not fermented, but cooked in spices), and warm rabbit terrine with burnt baby leeks surrounded by a moat of buttermilk and horseradish. Inventive vegetarian options include white asparagus with wild garlic, and ground chickpeas topped with bright peas and freshly picked salad leaves from the chef’s garden. The menu must-order is the “olive potatoes” – super-crispy little potatoes with notes of paprika and hidden olives. There’s also an impressive orange wine list to navigate, from mineral malvasia to raisiny jakot. Or go for Gordia’s unfiltered sparkling wine from the coastal town of Kolomban. tabar.si Gostilnica 5-6 kg – for pizza This rustic, brick-walled restaurant takes its name from the weight of a typical Slovenian suckling pig, cooked here in a bread oven. The slow-cooked pork is well worth a visit but so, too, are the pizzas (as they should be this close to the Italian border). The blistered crusts of Neapolitan-style pizzas wrap around bases topped with baked cherry tomatoes, confit garlic and basil. Toppings add extra punch – Pizza 5-6 kg is an indulgent combination of fior di latte, sausage, porchetta made from that slow-cooked suckling pig and roasted red pepper sauce. Or, go coastal and try the seafood pizza, complete with cuttlefish ink, sea bass fillet, royal prawns and capers. facebook.com/gostilnica56kg Stow – for coffee Cut through City Museum of Ljubljana’s striking courtyard and you’ll find this speciality coffee roaster. Light pours in through glass walls onto canary-yellow tables scattered across cobbled floors. Baristas treat the La Morzocco coffee machine with respect, and beans are treated as a seasonal fruit, procured from small-scale growers around the world and roasted on-site. In spring, go for the floral, honeyed notes of African burundi, or enjoy delicate jasmine and bergamot in Panama’s legendary geisha coffee. If the sun is out, sit and sip beneath a shady parasol in the museum courtyard. stow.si Butik LePotica– for traditional bakes This patisserie gets its name from the celebration cake it serves – shaped like a bundt, potica is traditionally eaten at Christmas and during celebrations. Walnut is the classic flavour, an earthy paste spiralled through the dough, while sweet tarragon is popular at Easter. At the small boutique, bakers create individual-sized treats and experiment with flavours such as poppyseed, chocolate, hazelnut and mint. le-potica.si :Projekt – for craft beer Opened in May 2025, this graffiti-clad bottle shop and bar is hidden up a paved pedestrian street in a more local part of town, not far from Dragon Bridge. Step down into the mint green space to peruse the brews on tap, shelves stocked with European craft beer and a fridge dedicated to Slovenian specialties. projekt.beer Ek bistro – for brunch Sit by the city’s Ljubljanica river to enjoy a backdrop of forest-blanketed hills, or settle into an exposed brick nook at this popular brunch spot. The eggs (benedict, scrambled, royale) are what draw the crowds, but larger lunch plates also shine – try plump pink duck on seasonal vegetables and sweet potato mash, or wild asparagus polenta fritters with fresh salad. Homemade ice teas include sparkling elderflower and lemongrass with mint, thyme and lavender. ek-bistro.business.site Pop’s Aperitivo – for buzzy local feels Catering to a lively local crowd, this expansive terrace bar and restaurant plays to Slovenia's neighbouring Italian influence with casual pizza and pasta dishes, cherry negronis and olive oil fat-washed Italicus spritzes. aperitivo.thepopsplace.com Lajbah – for Slovenian craft beer With 16 beers on tap and more than 130 bottles from around the world to choose from, this contemporary pub is a great place to taste some of Slovenia’s best-loved brews. Treat yourself to a beer flight and sample the likes of Pelicon’s Yess Boss! pale ale, Green Gold Brewing’s tropical IPA, and smooth, chocolatey HumanFish Baltic Porter. lajbah.si AS Boutique Hotel – a food-centric place to stay in Ljubljana Nestled into leafy Knafljev passage, this contemporary boutique hotel is built atop family-run dining institution Gostilna AS, right in the centre of the Slovenian capital. Designed to reflect the style of buildings in the Alpine north, the striking steel structure is entwined with plants in keeping with the area’s green status. The artistic focus continues inside, with a chic library and lounge area, walls lined with Slovenian pop art and contemporary light installations. The owner’s art collection adorns the 30 smart rooms, along with walnut wood panelling and bespoke corrugated wardrobes. Almost all have balconies that look onto pretty rooftops, many offering glimpses of the castle perched above. The Castle Exclusive room boasts uninterrupted views of the landmark, not only from the floor-to-ceiling windows but also reflected in the glass encasing an intricate wrought iron bedframe. There are multiple on-site restaurants to choose from: see above for more about Gostilna AS, JAZ and Pop’s Aperitivo. Doubles from £222, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com
Best restaurants in Amsterdam: an insider shares where locals eat and drink
Head to the Dutch capital for Michelin-starred dining, great bakeries, relaxed canalside wine bars and more
Looking for the best restaurants in Amsterdam? Though the Dutch capital hasn’t always had a reputation as a foodie destination, a wave of independent restaurants, cafés and wine bars has begun to change that in recent years – and is putting Amsterdam firmly on the culinary map. Gina Jackson, who visits the city several times a year, gives us the insider rundown on the best places to eat and drink. For more travel inspiration, discover our favourite foodie city breaks by train and the best UK city breaks. Best restaurants in Amsterdam Oficina Located on the western edges of the city, in a part of Amsterdam that most tourists don’t venture out to, Oficina is well worth the pilgrimage. This self-described design studio and canteen pairs a striking, architect-led space – complete with a sculptural staircase and mint green mezzanine – with a breakfast and lunch menu that changes regularly. The cooking leans Scandinavian and northern European in spirit: clean, thoughtful and seasonally informed. Expect beautifully presented plates such as chickpea flatbread with cime di rapa or miso scrambled eggs on toasted brioche. There are always home-baked goods worth saving room for too. oficinaoficina.com Calisto Part of the Binnenvisser restaurant family – a micro-chain of much-loved restaurants and bakeries popular with Amsterdam’s in-crowd – Calisto is its relaxed, Italian-inspired trattoria located in Jordaan. It’s an ideal place to unwind after a day wandering the canals, with the menu offering a short curation of handmade pastas and small plates to pair with wine. It’s also particularly welcoming for solo diners, who can perch at the bar and rub shoulders with the locals. calistoamsterdam.nl Gitane This all-day restaurant owned by ex-Ottolenghi chef Angelo Kremmydas is the kind of place that you can visit for brunch and while away the hours until dinner, when the candelit tables make it perfect for a date night. There’s shakshuka and Greek bagels on offer at brunch, which segue into small plates come evening: whipped tarama and cod’s roe piled onto a tear-apart brioche roll, mackerel crudo in kumquat and chilli oil, and tender duck with caramelised jerusalem artichoke – all paired with an impressive wine list. Walk it all off at nearby Vondelpark afterwards. restaurantgitane.nl/en Advocatuur This sleek cocktail bar is located inside the swanky Rosewood Amsterdam, which sits within the historic former Palace of Justice. Inside, the bar features three distinct rooms, including a live performance room and a distillery room. Take a seat on the velvety furnishings and sip cocktails, paired with Indian-inspired nibbles served straight from the bar’s two tandoor ovens. rosewoodhotels.com/en/amsterdam/dining/advocatuur Salvo Bakehouse There’s no shortage of great bakeries in Amsterdam but Salvo Bakehouse stands out from the crowd thanks to its Italian-inspired pastries. Located on the edge of Jordaan, you’ll find maritozzi, crunchy cannoli, thick Florentine sandwiches and endless other desserts. The baked goods counter changes constantly, ensuring there’s always something new to try: the chunky chocolate cookies and pistachio tiramisu have to be my personal favourites. salvobakehouse.com Café Twee Prinsen Situated at the intersection of some of the city’s prettiest canals, Café Twee Prinsen is another popular Binnenvisser outpost. This relaxed wine bar is perfect for stopping by for snacks and a glass of wine after an afternoon of shopping or sightseeing. There are no reservations – just turn up and hope for a spot, which might just be a stool perched on the edge of the canal in the summer months. Most of the menu is vegetarian, with fresh, flavourful dishes designed for sharing. tweeprinsen.nl Carmen From the outside, Carmen Amsterdam looks like a chic boutique, carefully curating a stylish selection of womenswear and accessories. But don’t miss the café tucked at the back: a light-filled, inviting space that’s perfect for brunch or lunch. Softly scrambled eggs, Nordic-inspired breakfast plates and expertly brewed coffee are all on offer. carmenamsterdam.com/pages/the-kitchen Restaurant Flore This standout restaurant situated inside the glamorous Hotel de L’Europe is one to save for truly special occasions. As the only two-Michelin-starred restaurant in the Dutch capital to also hold a Michelin Green Star, Flore offers a hyper-seasonal menu, with 90% of the ingredients featured on the menu sourced locally from within the Netherlands. The tasting menus showcase inventive, beautifully executed dishes that change with the seasons – and as part of the immersive dining experience you’ll even enjoy your amuse-bouche inside the kitchen, watching the team (led by chef Bas van Kranen) at work as you nibble. restaurantflore.com Esh Pita Bar Tucked away in the Museum Quarter, this relaxed, no-frills Israeli restaurant serves generous portions of stuffed pittas, alongside platters of crispy falafel, creamy hummus and tender chicken shawarma. Dishes are made for sharing, so it’s best to come with a friend or two and dive in together – you’re guaranteed to leave thoroughly stuffed. esh.amsterdam Café-Restaurant Amsterdam It doesn’t get more traditional and Dutch than Café-Restaurant Amsterdam, a true local institution. Situated in an airy, whitewashed building near Westerpark – specifically the engine room of a former water pumping station – this well-known dining spot is where Amsterdammers gather over hearty plates of steak frites, schnitzel and fresh seafood. The perfect place for a relaxed lunch or dinner, it’s a reliable spot to experience the city’s timeless culinary favourites. cradam.nl/en More Amsterdam restaurant recommendations from the olive team Daalder Visit Michelin-starred Daalder for the unique, seasonally changing tasting menu. Chef patron Dennis Huwaë’s salted caramel ice cream sandwich take on the stroopwafel is divine. In summer, tables spill out onto the pavement and the atmosphere is so laid back that you’ll be happy to linger over a number of courses. daalderamsterdam.nl De Kas Amsterdam’s former municipal nursery is now a restaurant aptly named De Kas (‘greenhouse’). With an emphasis on vegetables, fresh produce is grown on site or on a farm in nearby Beemster. Go for lunch to sit outside in the herb garden and feast on baked endive with gremolata, millet, salted lemon and rocket vinaigrette. restaurantdekas.nl Pllek Hop aboard the free ferry to the Noord for lunch at Pllek, a beach bar housed in an old shipping container. Order the steamed mackerel with dill-horseradish crème fraîche and capers on sourdough and enjoy it outside with a local beer and panoramic views of the IJ river. pllek.nl Bistrot des Alpes Locals’ favourite, the cosy Bistrot des Alpes, comes into its own in winter. Diners wait for their table in a former ski-lift gondola but the gimmickry stops there. The owners used to live in the Haut Savoie and produce highly accomplished cooking. Try hearty Alpine favourites like tartiflette and charcuterie platters, or more delicate dishes like pan-fried char with beurre noisette. bistrot-des-alpes.nl Blauw Indonesia was once a Dutch colony so it’s no big surprise that Amsterdam is well known for its Indonesian food. For some of the best – and spiciest – in town head to Blauw, on the city’s southern outskirts. Order the rijsttafel (literally rice table) and experience the full gamut of dishes. There's also a branch in Utrecht, the leafy town half an hour from Amsterdam that has a buzzing food and drink scene thanks to the town's young entrepreneurs. restaurantblauw.nl Hartog's Bakery In winter sugar-scented oliebollen are as ubiquitous in Amsterdam as stamppot. Translated as oil balls, they’re essentially a Dutch take on the beignet, served dusted with icing sugar and sometimes studded with currants (in which case they’re called krentenbollen). You’ll find them served from stalls on almost every corner but, for something different, head to Hartog's Bakery for an unusual wholewheat version. volkorenbrood.nl Best bars in Amsterdam Bar Oldenhof Once a wood-panelled ‘brown café’, Bar Oldenhof is now a tribute to old-school cool. A jazz soundtrack, waistcoated bartenders and a gleaming brass bar top complement its meticulously made cocktails. Try a Flying Dutchman – Rembrandt korenwijn (corn brandy), yellow chartreuse, benedictine and lemon juice. bar-oldenhof.com Café de Dokter Amsterdam has a beer for every season, and in autumn and winter that’s the herfstbok: a strong, dark beer with a hint of caramel. Taste it with a portion of ossenworst (cold-smoked beef sausage) at Café de Dokter, an atmospheric spot packed to the rafters with curios collected over more than two centuries of operation. cafe-de-dokter.nl Wynand Fockink A distillery dating back to 1679, Wynand Fockink is still serving genever (the Dutch precursor to gin) in tulip-shaped glasses to thirsty patrons. Located just off Dam Square, it attracts tourists and locals with liqueurs and an atmospheric setting. wynand-fockink.nl Café Binnenvisser Set up by friends Bob Nagel, Maarten Bloem and Guus Lourijsen, from the outside Café Binnenvisser looks like any buzzy neighbourhood wine bar. But the food far exceeds expectations and small plates change weekly according to what’s available. The celeriac fritters are so delicious you’ll want to order seconds. binnevisser.nl Best cafés in Amsterdam Winkel 43 An Amsterdam institution, Winkel 43 opened in 1983 and has been serving its signature apple pie ever since. Take a seat at one of the cafe's wobbly wooden tables (the cosiest seats are in the window) and order a slice to share between two. Gently spiced, chewy pastry with a crisp, solid crust encases soft apple chunks, while a dollop of feather-light whipped cream finishes it off. If you can't get a table, perch at the bar or eat outside on the terrace. winkel43.nl Bocca This 'showroom' for Holland's top coffee roaster (and previous winner of the best artisan roaster in Europe in the European Coffee Awards) is a slick space where you can learn about the latest blends and coffee equipment. The huge coffee bar separates the room into an area for punters to come and taste coffee, and a swish training area for baristas. So you can enjoy your brew of choice while watching the finest of coffee geekery! bocca.nl/en Toki Meaning ‘time’ in Japanese, Toki is where you’ll find hip Dutch dads drinking matcha tea alongside MacBook-wielding freelancers. The pastries from neighbouring Petit Gateau are a must with your morning coffee (try the croissant doughnut). @toki.times Street food and food markets in Amsterdam Foodhallen The ideal rainy-day destination, De Hallen is a converted tramshed that is now home to a cinema, library, independent shops and, crucially, the renowned Foodhallen. Eat your way around the street-food stalls here – the soft-shell crab and oysters at Le Big Fish, and the rice paper rolls at Viet View are highlights. foodhallen.nl Frites uit Zuyd The celebrated chip is at its finest at Frites uit Zuyd. Plump, crispy fries are served in red-and-white checked paper cones with a choice of homemade sauces, including a punchy piccalilli mayonnaise. Buy a cone to go – or buy by the meter (8 cones’ worth). You can also enjoy them as part of a meal in the brasserie next door. fritesuitzuyd.nl Noordermarkt Make like a local and head to the Saturday morning Noordermarkt in the pretty Jordaan neighbourhood to pick up artisanal produce from farms outside the city. Vendors have been selling produce outside the Noorderkerk since 1623 and the market is famous for its mushrooms, some of which are collected in Dutch forests. Stop at the pancake stall for a gouda and mushroom crêpe. noordermarkt-amsterdam.nl More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
31 best Italian hotels for food lovers to visit in 2026
From vineyard estates in Tuscany to converted palazzos in Puglia and boutiques in Milan's foodiest neighbourhood, here's our pick of Italian hotels that offer visitors a slice of la dolce vita
Looking for the best Italian hotel to visit? We've found the best Italian hotels for food lovers in Piedmont, Tuscany, Sicily, Puglia and everywhere in between. Whether you're on a budget or looking for luxury, need a city break or a sea views, check out our round-up of the best Italian hotels for something for everyone. For more hotel inspiration, check out our best European hidden gem hotels, or relax in one of the best hotel baths worth travelling for. Next, learn 10 things we love about Puglian cuisine and Tuscan food, plus discover the 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting for a foodie trip. Best Italian hotels for foodies Vetera Matera, Basilicata From £220 per night, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or veteramatera.com Nestled among Matera’s ancient caves, this boutique retreat from Relais & Châteaux brings quiet five-star luxury to Italy’s oldest city. The 23-room hotel is built into the Sassi di Matera, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, blending the ruggedness of the mountains with plush modern interiors. At Artema Ristorante, expect dishes that pay homage to Basilicata-grown produce, with two tasting menus on offer from chef Eduardo Estatico (à la carte is available for parties with three guests or fewer). Stand-outs include a soufflé made with farm-fresh eggs from the Matera hills, paired with Vesuvian costoluto and yellow cherry tomatoes, and Murgia goat mozzarella, as well as rockfish soup with sweet and sour vegetable terrine, seaweed and Matera sourdough bread. Salads, sandwiches and charcuterie are served in the Lounge Bar for casual lunches and dinners. Rooms on the Noble Floors have a more contemporary feel, with high ceilings, exposed brick and large windows that offer panoramic views of the Sassi. For a more immersive Matera experience, stay in the Hypogeum where the underground suites are carved directly into the ancient rock, emulating the landscape’s unique beauty. Three of the master suites also have private pools. The Elysium Spa (largest of its kind in the Sassi) is home to hydropools, a caldarium, sauna, hammam and cold plunge pool, as well as treatment rooms for massages and facials. Wine tastings can be also booked in the cellar, where an expert sommelier will guide you through labels from around the region and beyond. Breakfast is served in the Artema Ristorante, where a buffet of breads, pastries, cereals, fruit and yogurt, as well as fresh juices and coffee, awaits. Savoury options include bacon, eggs, Med vegetables and Italian cheeses including caciocavallo, fior di latte, stracciatella and ricotta. From £220 per night, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or veteramatera.com Credit: Relais & Chateaux Villa Paola, Tropea Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, check availability at villapaolatropea.it or booking.com Discover rustic luxury at Villa Paola, a pink-hued former 16th-century convent set among the cliffs and hills of Calabria at the southern tip of Italy. From crisp white linen bedding to cool marble bathrooms, a secluded infinity pool and serene courtyards, it is the perfect location for some R&R. Terraces look out to the Costa Degli Dei (coast of the gods) and over the farmland below, where the restaurant grows a lot of its produce. Meander down through the tiered gardens to the hotel’s own hives, and spot Tropea’s famous red onions. Superior rooms overlook the hills of Tropea and Parghelia, just off the main courtyard, with bird song to gently wake you and white wooden shutters to throw open in the morning. Deluxe rooms offer more sweeping panoramas of the towns, the executive room has a private terrace with views straight out to sea, and the Eremita suite has its own Turkish bath as well as a veranda. There’s a bistro-style menu on offer during the day with dishes such as sourdough pizzas, red onion salads and club sandwiches. Enjoy an aperitivo overlooking the sea after spending time on the beach or wandering around Tropea. De’ Minimi restaurant offers more refined tasting menus, meticulously designed with seasonality at the forefront and an emphasis on local produce and zero waste. There are various menus but think charcoal-grilled spaghettone with artichoke, fresh sea trout with beetroot and hay, and, to finish, a dessert of goat’s curd ice cream and local honey. At breakfast, a three-tiered stand of daily-changing treats arrives to the table for enjoying with your morning cappuccino. There’s also a continental buffet of fruit, pastries and cakes, with à la carte options including omelettes and local honey, which is the star of the show here – make sure to load your yogurt with a generous drizzle. Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, check availability at villapaolatropea.it or booking.com La Guardia, Tuscany Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Giglio, the second largest island in the Tuscan archipelago, is lush with clifftop vineyards, fig trees and pines. The serene and stylish seaside retreat, La Guardia, is perched atop a granite cave along from the pastel-hued harbour. Brushed concrete and original stone columns are softened with driftwood decorations and wispy wicker lanterns that gently flutter in the Mediterranean breeze. Chic neutral tones continue through to the rooms, all kitted out with luxury Sicilian Ortigia toiletries and many boasting balconies and sea views. Book the junior suite to embrace the elements with a bathroom built into the granite and a beachside terrace for watching the waves lap against the rocks. Mediterranean flavours and island cuisine are served in the on-site restaurant – sip on a Venetian Select spritz at aperitivo hour before a candlelit dinner of Sicilian anchovies, palamita fish with marinated courgettes, and tagliolini with lemon butter and bottarga. The 70-strong wine list showcases rare bottles from Italy’s islands – Giglio, Ischia, Salina and beyond. Breakfast includes the likes of prosciutto, omelettes with Tuscan cheese, homemade fig bread and freshly squeezed juices. There are sunset yoga sessions on the terrace, healing zen shiatsu and Ayurvedic treatments, and e-bikes to explore the island’s rugged trails, cliff-face vineyards and restaurants in medieval castles. Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Forestis, Plose Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Masseria La Carrube, Puglia Doubles from £311, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Reached via a winding road through thousand-year-old olive trees, Masseria Le Carrube sits between the Adriatic and the hills above Ostuni – a low, whitewashed building surrounded by lemon trees, bougainvillea and acres of working land. This is Puglia at its most ingredients-led. The restaurant, set in the masseria's former olive mill, is entirely vegetarian and deeply rooted in the region. Chef Massimo Santoro builds his ever-changing menus around what the estate produces: almonds, figs, wild strawberries, wheat, vegetables, herbs and olives. Carrube (carob) grows in the courtyard and appears as flour in fresh pasta and dusted atop tiramisu. The approach is thoughtful, seasonal and proudly waste-free, with anything not used one day repurposed the next. Dishes are both traditional and surprising. A fennel flan arrives with a sharp cheese sauce, fried vegetables are crisp and balanced, a pasta cooked in red wine and finished with turnip top cream and a taralli crumb feels inventive but grounded. A bowl of breads – cazzatedde, focaccia and taralli – is as generous as the cooking itself. Guests can dive deeper with pasta-making classes led by Massimo, wine tastings with sommelier Mario exploring Puglia’s native grapes, and olive oil tastings at a neighbouring estate. These experiences round out Le Carrube’s philosophy: connection to the land and reverence for tradition. The rooms are simple, with vaulted ceilings and stone floors, a mixture of farmhouse antiques and clean lines. Some have sea views, others open onto lemon-filled courtyards. Two pools overlook the olive groves. In late summer, the estate’s white and black figs ripen, and you can be sure they’ll take centre stage when they do. Meals here feel like an honest celebration of Puglia’s landscape – generous, inventive and unmistakably local. Doubles from £311, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com L’Albereta Relais & Châteaux, Lombardy Superior rooms from £348 per night, check availability at albereta.it or booking.com Nestled among the vineyards of Franciacorta, L’Albereta is a secluded escape near the town of Erbusco. Dating to the late 19th century, the villa was home to Giovanni Cavalleri and his wife Anna, a musician whose passion for the arts is reflected in the sculptures, whimsical art pieces and beautifully manicured grounds. Now owned by Vittorio Moretti, L’Albereta is on the same estate as Bellavista winery, which features on the extensive wine lists of its restaurants. The elegant Leonefelice Vista Lago, with a stunning view of Lake Iseo, serves elevated Italian dishes inspired by the area, such as Franciacorta beef with rocket and baked cherry tomatoes. Seasonal specials include fried duck egg with asparagus and caviar and cacio e pepe with Sicilian red prawns and lime. The desserts are equally elegant, such as kiwi sorbet with green apple, local wine and citrus fruit soup. Stanza 54, a cosy lounge, offers lunches and lighter fare, while La Filiale, the informal pizza restaurant from award-winning pizzaiolo Franco Pepe, serves handmade dough with innovative toppings. Rooms are individually decorated, large and bright, with warm tones, marble bathrooms and delicate furnishings. Expect luxe fabrics like damask and satin, artistic touches and, in some, deep hydro-massage tubs – choose a superior room for a balcony overlooking the gardens. A continental breakfast with local produce and breads is included. To make the most of your stay, book a tour of the on-site winery plus a tasting of its sparkling wines, or enjoy a treatment at the peaceful Chenot Espace wellness spa. Superior rooms from £348 per night, check availability at albereta.it or booking.com Villa La Massa, Tuscany Check availability at villalamassa.com or booking.com Just 15 minutes from Florence's bustling centre, this riverside 16th-century estate welcomes guests with the heady scent of jasmine, lemon trees and roses. Despite its grandeur, Villa La Massa is laid back, calm and homely. The property has 54 unique rooms across six buildings, from the main Villa Nobile mansion to a riverside suite and a beautifully converted farmhouse. For ultimate seclusion, Casa Colonica stands out with authentic Tuscan elements – exposed beams, wooden floors and green marble bathrooms. There are artisan touches throughout, from hand-knotted rugs crafted by an 80-year-old local tapestry master to traditional key charms instead of modern keycards. The hotel’s restaurants celebrate Tuscan heritage and homegrown produce, with the estate's own olive oil accompanying every meal. Il Verrocchio restaurant offers traditional Tuscan dishes with a contemporary twist such as “Florentine” t-bone steak, duck ravioli, and tagliolini with roasted tomatoes, while L’Oliveto Bistrot focuses on more casual dining featuring the likes of fresh salads, carpaccio, and pizzas. Don't miss the rosemary-studded focaccia or the pici pasta, a hand-rolled specialty. Breakfast unfolds as a celebration of regional delicacies such as focaccia, coconut and cinnamon paradise cake, freshly squeezed orange juice and tables positioned to capture the morning sun dancing across the river's surface. Unwind in the spa with sauna, steam room and tailored massage treatments or participate in hands-on pizza-making classes and cocktail workshops. Villa La Massa invites you to fully lean into rural Tuscan life, while boasting easy access to Florence’s Renaissance treasures and thriving hospitality scene. Check availability at villalamassa.com or booking.com Hotel Su Gologone, Sardinia Doubles from £285, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Winding into the Barbagia mountains you'll find the Hotel Su Gologone. Just a two-hour drive from the Costa Smeralda this is more bandit than paparazzi territory – probably one of the reasons Madonna hid out here, although she could have been swayed by the hotel’s gob-smacking beauty, hippy-chic vibe and gourmet credentials. Food is at the heart of Su Gologone, which started life as a restaurant in the 1960s. Today, it might be a chic, art-themed hotel – a pretty huddle of whitewashed buildings laced with vivid purple bougainvillea and bedded into the mountainside – but it’s still famous for its food. Giovanna’s vibrant artworks pepper the bedrooms’ walls while the corridors are hung with traditional embroidered skirts and shawls. Secret alcoves are dotted around the gardens, there’s an open-air cinema and pool, a small spa, rooftop lounging areas for stargazing and a fabulous bar– whitewashed, open-air, scattered with white cushions and teetering above the valley. Sip a frothy bellini here, as the sun sinks, soaking up the Ibiza vibe and jaw-dropping views. Doubles from £285, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Fink, South Tyrol Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Nestled in the arcades of one of Brixen’s oldest monastery townhouses, this boutique hotel has been passed down through four generations. Husband-and-wife owners Petra and Florian Fink have a deep respect for the 1450s building, creating an intentionally minimalist feel to allow original features to shine in the nine suites – thick stone walls left bare, restored ceiling frescoes decorating cosy window seats and the terrazzo flooring flecked with South Tyrolean stone. A compact vaulted spa awaits behind an ancient wooden door, its central stone plunge pool ideal for cooling down after sessions in the sauna, steam room and Roman bath outhouse. Choose to dine in the chic vaulted restaurant or outside beneath the arcade’s graceful curves. Florian curates produce from 50 local farmers – most specialising in a single ingredient – for his fresh, simple, zero-waste monastery kitchen style. The main menu is vegetarian and includes clever alternatives, such as root veg tartare, tagliolini with red cabbage cream and black truffle, and organic grain ravioli filled with chanterelles and mountain cheese. Meat and fish options are succinct and include local game and freshwater fish, from lake trout fillet to venison stew with beetroot dumplings, and veal schnitzel with lingonberry sauce. Sweet plum dumplings come with black beer ice cream, while three South Tyrolean apple varieties are showcased in a tartlet with ricotta and caramel sauce. An elegant breakfast kicks off with a soothing herb broth followed by fresh juices and fruit salads, crudités to dunk into herb ricotta and compotes to spread over warm croissants and breads, plus made-to-order spelt pancakes and crisp buckwheat waffles. fink1896.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Il Borro Estate, Tuscany Doubles from £455, check availability at booking.com Il Borro is a true working 800-hectare estate, where guests visiting in autumn can take part in the wine harvest and feast alongside the workers and owners (the glamorous Ferragamo family). The hotel itself is set in the remains of a medieval village in the centre of the estate in Valdarno valley, a wilder, more rustic corner of Tuscany. The unique terroir of the estate, with its varying rocky, sandy and clay soils, makes perfect growing conditions for Syrah to make Pian di Nova, San Giovese to make Polissena and Merlot to make the Il Borro signature blend. This unique climate and soil isn’t solely reserved for wine - 700 olive trees provide oil, fields of buckwheat are a playground for honeybees, plus more fields of organic tomato vines, courgettes, pumpkins, green beans and melons provide the hotel’s three-floored Osteria and Tuscan bistro (and chef Andrea Campani) with the ultimate kitchen garden. The buffet breakfast is also exceptional – so abundant that sweet and savoury options are housed in separate rooms. Stay in one of the hotel double rooms or, for more of a countryside experience, the hotel has several ‘farmhouses’ available as guest suites – albeit farmhouses that come with infinity pools, vine-covered terraces and dining rooms where you can whip up your own meals. Don't miss out on a few laps in the infinity pool too. Doubles from £455, check availability at booking.com Nordelaia, Piedmont Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Nordelaia is all about equilibrium: between tradition and modernity; simplicity and indulgence; the boundlessness of nature and the cosy, uplifting comfort of home. It lies within a hilly swathe of rural Piedmont – a region which itself represents a kind of geographical middle ground, suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800-year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are at once contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, while freestanding baths in the bedroom areas add a dose of opulence. On the first floor, the four rooms are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes by which Nordelaia, from its woody hillside perch, is engulfed: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn, and pearly whites in the winter. Two outdoor pools – one heated, one not, but both with views for miles – entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its warm stone floors, barrel-vaulted brick ceiling and stone arches, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Beyond the walls, Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here chef Charles Pearce pays stunning homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and to the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. The two coalesce inventively in his take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta that Charles instead pairs with barbecue-kissed prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a lip-smacking tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms, served with a deeply savoury anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Palazzo Margherita, Basilicata Doubles from £856, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The ethos behind Palazzo Margherita is that it should be a home away from home (albeit a pretty palatial one, bearing in mind that this was originally home to a Hollywood film director), with friendly staff and an open attitude to eating: guests can eat anywhere, anytime, choosing a location within the property that suits their particular mood. Enjoy breakfast in the courtyard, coffees by the walled pool, pizza and pasta at communal tables at the eat-in kitchen and drinks in the cocktail bar. Should you venture away from the hotel, the tranquil local beach has a scattering of sunbeds and parasols reserved for Palazzo Margherita guests. Pick one and look out at the Ionian Sea while you feast on a picnic made up by the cooks at the hotel (they normally add in a delicious seafood spaghetti made with the catch of the day from a local fisherman). Doubles from £856, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Susafa, Sicily Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk It’s a family affair at Susafa, a sprawling estate that has been owned by members of the Saeli-Rizzuto family for five generations - brothers Manfredi and Tommaso are now at the helm. The fortified, 19th-century farmhouse at its heart sits at the foot the Madonie mountains, near Polizzi Generosa, and is the focal point for overnight guests. Around the farmhouse are 18 simple but chic guest rooms. Between terracotta floors and exposed beams are restful ricotta-coloured walls and the odd pop of olive green or tomato red from a headboard or throw. A restaurant is housed in the old granary and flavours here take their inspiration from the traditional Sicilian table. Vegetables, herbs, fruit and organic olive oil all come straight from the farm and the menu is elegantly rustic (think tomato salads, caponata and creamy risottos). Join a cookery lesson if you can drag yourself away from the pool. Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Castello di Casole, Tuscany Doubles from £667, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Roughly half way between Florence and Siena, and surrounded by 4,200 acres of quintessential rolling, forested hills and golden fields, Castello di Casole is a magnificent Italian country estate. At its centre is an imposing, ochre-coloured castle flanked by gardens of lavender, gravel-edged lawns, roses and olive trees. Castello di Casole is pitched at travellers in search of an unblemished version of la dolce vita, one with all the luxurious perks you could imagine. It has 41 rooms and suites within the castle and the hamlet that surrounds it, and another 28 villas and farmhouses (rentable by the week) scattered throughout the estate. Décor is tastefully restrained, with sage and burnt umber paintwork, beamed ceilings, antique furniture sourced from local markets, traditional cotto floors and Carrara marble bathrooms. As with any self-respecting Tuscan estate, this one comes with its own vineyard and olive groves but the real showstopper is the hotel’s infinity pool with its mesmerising views over the undulating landscape. As dusk falls, most guests gravitate to the terrace above the pool, aperitivo in hand, to watch the spectacular sight of the sun sinking behind the hills. As well as the Pazzia Restaurant, which serves traditional Italian dishes and homemade gelato as well as Alessandro’s expert pizzas, there is a more formal restaurant, Tosca, overseen by chef Daniele Sera. Despite the stiff linen and impeccable service here, it still feels relaxed. A standout of the four-course tasting menu was the delicate spinach and ricotta gnudi with tomato confit and light-as-air mozzarella foam. There are more gastronomic experiences available too – from truffle hunting and mushroom foraging to pasta making and wine or olive oil tasting. Doubles from £667, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Borgo Egnazia, Puglia Doubles from £469, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Borgo Egnazia, or ‘village Egnazia’, is quite literally that: an Apulian-inspired network of little streets and piazzas that lead to villas, restaurants, swimming pools, spas, gardens and golf courses. It’s a self-contained bubble of luxury, beautifully designed around the colours white and cream, that’s built entirely from tactile tuff stone. Despite its size, the entire complex exudes a zen-like atmosphere that we found very difficult to leave. You can choose from four types of hotel room, five apartments or six villas – all luxurious, and all within easy reach of a swimming pool. Food is a priority, with six restaurants on site that honour Puglian cuisine – timeless, simple, thrifty food. From grilled octopus at the sophisticated Due Camini, where vaulted white ceilings twinkle with illuminated glass bottles, to a relaxed buffet at La Fresca, rustic orecchiette or pizza at Mia Cucina and fresh seafood at beachside restaurant Pescheria da Vito, it’s easy to stay within the Borgo walls all week. Doubles from £469, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Il Borgo del Balsamico, Emilia Romagna Doubles from £148, check availability at booking.com Modena is synonymous with one of Italy’s most celebrated ingredients: intensely flavoured balsamic vinegar made from fermented grape must. The area around the city of Reggio Emilia is a hub for the vinegar’s production, and also happens to be where you will find Il Borgo del Balsamico. At this historic guest house, in Botteghe Albinea, sisters Cristina and Silvia Crotti produce DOP and IGP vinegars. It’s a lovely setting – an 18th century villa and farmhouse surrounded by wisteria-draped gardens, abundant with damask roses and fruit trees. You can visit the tasting rooms as a day tripper but we recommend booking to stay over in one of the property’s three, refined guestrooms (plus one apartment); think parquet floors, Venetian plasterwork and carefully chosen antiques. There’s a small pool in the gardens too. Doubles from £148, check availability at booking.com Locanda al Colle, Tuscany Doubles from £252, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Calling Locanda al Colle a bed and breakfast is a bit of an understatement. This 12-room guesthouse has many of the perks of a five-star hotel with its antiques and art, saltwater pool and immaculate gardens. Adding to the exclusive feel is its tranquil location, on a pine and olive tree-dotted hill outside Camaiore (also easily reached from seaside resorts like Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi and the pretty town of Pietrasanta). The overall vibe is informal but impeccable, and the same could be said of the food, with everything freshly made each day, from the sourdough bread and granola at breakfast to the cakes for afternoon tea. Resident chef Gianluca also conducts cookery lessons in the kitchen and, twice a week (on Wednesdays and Saturdays) hosts sociable dinners serving homemade ravioli and more on the candlelit terrace (on Monday evenings simple suppers of Tuscan soup and bruschetta are also available). Doubles from £252, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Planeta Wine Estate, Sicily Doubles from £225, check availability at booking.com Unsurprisingly it’s all about wine at the Planeta Wine Estate, just outside Menfi in south-western Sicily. As one of Sicily’s most well established and highly regarded wine producers, Planeta has five different territories dotted around the island but Menfi is where it all began, back in the 16th century. At nearby La Forestiera (part of the estate) there are 14 guestrooms set amid regimented vines, plus a restaurant whose menu is informed by its surroundings - the herbs of the countryside and seafood from the nearby coast. Sip a glass of Nero d’Avola on the pool terrace or visit one of Planeta’s wineries for an in-depth tasting. As well as the pool, in the warmer months guests have access to the Lido Fiori on the beach at Porto Palo di Menfi, 10 minutes’ drive away. Planeta also has vast olive groves at Capparriva producing DOP Val di Mazzara oils; guests can sign up for a tasting and learn about harvesting and pressing. Doubles from £225, check availability at booking.com La Locanda Delle Donne Monache, Basilicata Doubles from £98, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Slightly less well-trammelled by British visitors than other corners of the country, Basilicata is sandwiched between Campania (to the north) and Calabria (to the south). Its rumpled Tyrrhenian Sea coastline is short but sweet at just 30km long, with mountains rising abruptly from the sea. Maratea, its principal town, is a charming cluster of buildings dotted with twisting alleyways and over 40 churches. Also in town, La Locanda delle Donne Monache is a former 18th-century convent, now a smart hotel, with a pool and views over the countryside to the sea. The hotel’s Il Sacella restaurant embraces the flavours of the province – chillies and pork are popular regional staples – and the menu features local sausages from Maratea, homemade pasta with mussels, shrimp and cuttlefish and baked sea bream washed down by Basilicata’s signature wine, the red Aglianco del Vulture. Doubles from £98, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Domu Antiga, Sardinia Doubles from £182, check availability at booking.com A 19th-century farmhouse in the rural heartland of Sardinia, Domu Antiga is in the village of Gergei, surrounded by empty plains and olive groves roamed by more sheep than people. The sensitively restored building is now home to four airy guestrooms whose owners are passionate about local traditions. Guests can jump on a cute Piaggio Ape van and tour the Unesco World Heritage-listed archaeological site of Su Nuraxi at Barumini. Alternatively, join chef Maria Grazia’s bread and cheese-making classes or try your hand at making local pasta shapes, like the island’s unique malloreddus gnocchi. Maria also oversees the guesthouse’s lavish breakfasts, and cooks dinner on request (expect grilled vegetables, local ravioli and Sardinian cheeses). There’s also a pizzeria and a winery close by. Doubles from £182, check availability at booking.com San Luis, Avelengo Check rates and availability at sanluis-hotel.com San Luis is where to go to get away from it all, breathe deeply and just immerse yourself in the tranquility, interrupted only by birdsong and cow bells chiming out through the surrounding valleys. Bedrooms are spread across a scattering of chalets and treehouses around a small, glacier mint-clear lake. Many of the rooms have their own hot tubs and saunas and all of them have small kitchens and dining areas. The showstopper is the double-height spa area in the main clubhouse with its blazing fires, black linen loungers to sink into, huge windows gazing out over the treetops and an inside/outside swimming pool – swim out, race down the pontoon and jump into the hot tub (or, in summer, plunge into the chilly waters of the lake). For foodies, the buzzy, ground floor dining room looks out over the lake and purrs with efficiency. The menu comes in two guises; a traditional one, which draws on the region’s Austro/Italian gastro-heritage, and a more modern, Mediterranean-inspired alternative dreamt up by executive chef, Arturo Spicocchi (five courses, but you can pick and choose how much you want to eat and half portions are available). Lunchtime means soup, salad and cheese, and teatime heralds cakes as well as home-made ice cream. Check rates and availability at sanluis-hotel.com Don Totu Dimora Storica, Puglia Doubles from £295, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com A stylish boutique hotel in the heart of rustic Puglia, Don Totu Dimora Storica is an 18th century palazzo boasting some of the most secluded grounds and best value rooms in the region. In the rural town of San Cassiano large wooden doors along an unassuming backstreet open into a mini palazzo, gracefully decorated in muted tones. Squishy armchairs and books and board games are on hand to keep visitors occupied. Or, help yourself to snacks from the kitchen (homemade biscuits, juices, cakes and nuts) and pad out through a higgledy-piggledy courtyard to find stone staircases leading to secluded terraces. Scented white rose petals drift down from a pergola that leads to a pool and gardens, jazz trickles from speakers and tiny lizards dart from one cacti-filled pot to another. The six bedrooms at Don Totu each have an individual feel. The owners make the most of the building’s quirks (vaulted stone ceilings, quiet alcoves, narrow staircases leading to terracotta terraces…) and have gathered a collection of furniture from across the region to add contemporary touches. There’s no restaurant at the hotel but order before 10.30 and you can enjoy lunchtime sandwiches and salads made with the region’s fantastic produce. The hotel’s small team of staff provides complimentary snacks to break up your day, anywhere in the grounds, from afternoon tea to aperitivo. Doubles from £295, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Palazzo Seneca, Norcia Doubles from £217, check availability at booking.com The foodie town of Norcia is set in the densely tree-covered Sibillini Mountains in Umbria. Enter through one of seven gates in the town’s heart-shaped, ancient walls and you soon discover a network of paved streets rich with foodie delights – café and restaurant tables spilling onto pavements and traditional food shops, Norcinerias, packed with prosciutto, cheeses, spelt and truffles. Relais & Chateaux's Palazzo Seneca is an elegantly restored sixteenth-century building hidden in one of Norcia’s narrow streets. Original stone flooring, open fires and squishy chairs await in the reception rooms, while delicate wrought iron frames, twisted wooden columns and wooden bedheads have been crafted so no two of the 24 rooms are the same. Pad down to the hotel's candlelit barrel-vaulted spa in the basement, complete with jacuzzi, sauna and Turkish bath. For breakfast, a serve-yourself spread is laid out on enormous wooden surfaces, with an entire table dedicated to charcuterie and local cheese. The hotel’s Michelin-starred Vespia restaurant is where the modern and innovative approach really comes into play, with little stacks of 24hr-cooked suckling pig and crisp buttery potatoes with splashes of colourful root veg purée, Norcia sausage ravioli and Breton chicken two ways. Doubles from £217, check availability at booking.com Find out more about our trip around Norcia here Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, Lake Como Standing proud on the headland at Lake Como, this grande dame has hosted statesmen and Hollywood celebs for over 150 years. It retains its lustre with chandeliers, marble, gilded columns and stunning frescos across high, vaulted ceilings, all lovingly maintained by generations of the Bucher family who remain in residence. The Suite Arte leans towards a quirkier sensibility with an Andy Warhol print above the bed and a Prada pooch stood sentry by the bathroom. Most rooms, though, speak of old school glamour, extending to linen sheets and plush silk bedspreads. Tall Italianate windows beautifully frame panoramic views over the lake. Direct access to the water sets this hotel apart and the recent addition of the Bacci da Bellagio beach club (complete with imported sand) takes full advantage. It’s an idyllic spot to soak up the sun, just a stone’s throw – yet a world apart – from the hubbub on the cobbled streets of Bellagio. The outdoor pool is flanked by palm trees, leading to lush botanical gardens, and a small indoor pool forms part of a bijou spa. Watch the sun set on the terrace with a smoky, citrussy Serbelloni spritz. For dinner, chef Ettore Bocchia delivers molecular gastronomy at Michelin-starred Mistral using ingredients from around the world, including “ethical” foie gras courtesy of free-range Spanish geese. Nonetheless, it’s simple spaghetti with pomodorino that shines, finished tableside with theatrical flourish. The veal chop is standout at La Goletta (the more informal of two restaurants) and it also serves lake perch with risotto if you hanker for a taste of humbler traditions. Doubles start from €850, breakfast included, check availability at villaserbelloni.com Langhe Country House, Piedmont Doubles from £209 per night, check availability at booking.com An imposing 18th-century farmstead near Alba, in Piedmont, Langhe Country House is surrounded by vineyards and hazelnut orchards, and has been beautifully renovated by owners Alessandro and Nadia (a Slow Food member and trained sommelier). The only meal served here is breakfast but it seriously impresses: hazelnut cakes and tarts, biscuits (baci, brutti ma buoni), croissants, jams, seasonal fruit, cheeses from Alta Langa, sliced hams – all homemade or local. Cooking classes for Piedmontese recipes can be arranged, and guests can help themselves to a glass of wine from the poolside wine fridge before going out for dinner in the local village. Doubles from £209 per night, check availability at booking.com Castello Banfi Il Borgo, Tuscany Doubles from £762, check availability at booking.com Set on Montalcino’s largest wine estate, by a medieval castle, Castello Banfi Il Borgo is a glamorous Italian hotel shaped from a hamlet of former estate workers’ houses. Romantic, traditionally styled suites - with terracotta floors, antique furnishings and linen-canopied beds – and classical Tuscan cooking (courses are also available) make it popular with honeymooners but it’s the estate’s Brunello that draws in visiting gourmands; in the on-site enoteca/ wine bar local sheep’s cheese and prosciutto can be paired to the estate’s wines. Doubles from £762, check availability at booking.com Hotel Schgaguler, Dolomites Doubles from £318, check availability at booking.com Pale wood and light hues dominate at Hotel Schgaguler, a central Castelrotto hotel surrounded by the Italian Dolomiti Superski region and all its endless ski runs. The food here is lighter than the hearty mountain fare of the surrounding mountains, with an Alpine-meets-Med twist. But the approach to ingredients remains as hyper-local as possible, making the most of what’s on the hotel’s doorstep. Eat light-as-a-feather gnocchi sprinkled with Alpine herbs, and drink milk supplied direct from local farms. The wine list is cherry-picked from Tyrolean producers further down the valley near Bolzano, and there’s a selection of grappa from neighbouring distilleries. Doubles from £318, check availability at booking.com The Marriott, Venice Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, marriott.com or expedia.co.uk Venice has long been known for its iconic Italian landmarks and traditionally rich culture. And cooking is an intrinsic part of that culture. At the Marriott, Federico Belluco, one of Italy’s youngest Michelin starred chefs, demonstrates why, making the most of the island’s kitchen garden of herbs, edible flowers and vegetables in dishes such as silky tortellini or comforting seafood stew, all drizzled in Isola delle Rose olive oil, the only olive oil produced within the city's boundaries. The resort's luxurious bedrooms and suites are modern and minimalist. Particularly impressive are the Residenza suites, which come with private pools with views of Venice. Doubles from £509, check availability at booking.com, marriott.com or expedia.co.uk La Favia, Milan Doubles from €125 including breakfast, check availability at lafavia4rooms.com< The four-bedroom La Favia guesthouse, an urban hideaway tucked inside a refurbished 19th-century building, takes its inspiration from owners Fabio and Marco’s travels: no two rooms are the same. On sunny mornings, start the day with breakfast in the rooftop garden – eggs cooked to order, pastries, cakes, bread, homemade jams, fruit and juice squeezed from oranges grown in the owners’ own citrus grove. Doubles from €125 including breakfast, check availability at lafavia4rooms.com Masseria Montenapoleone, Puglia Doubles from £212, check availability at booking.com In time-honoured Pugliese farming tradition, breakfast is the most important meal of the day and, at Masseria Montenapoleone - a stylish farmhouse hotel - it is served in the atmospheric surroundings of the Old Stables. Freshly picked fruits from the farm, dried fig tarts straight from the oven, citrus carpaccio with cinnamon, local cheese and cured meats are just some of the treats on offer for the first meal of the day. The warm sandstone farmhouse, which dates from the 1600s, has 16 guestrooms and is surrounded by a plane of silvery olive and almond trees. Just outside Fasano, on the Salento coast, it is very much a working farm, dedicated to organic produce. Guests are encouraged to pick their own fruit and vegetables and to go behind the scenes to learn more about Puglian cuisine. Doubles from £212, check availability at booking.com Antica Fattoria La Parrina, Tuscany Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com The Maremma is a corner of Tuscany where you can still find countryside roamed by traditional cowboys called “butteri” and Antica Fattoria La Parrina is the perfect stop for a window into rural life down on the Tuscan farm. As well as making well-regarded wines and grappa, the farm also produces cheese, honey, olive oil, fruit, vegetables, pasta, flour and meat – there’s an on-site shop that would put many a farmer’s market to shame. Overnight guests (it also doubles as an agriturismo) can also enjoy the farm’s bounty on the breakfast table, as well as at lunch and dinner; everything is made onsite. Guests can picnic in the grounds, enjoy wine tastings, join a Tuscan cookery lesson or even go boar hunting on the estate. The property’s 12 bedrooms, housed in the solid farmhouse at the centre of the estate, channel rustic charm rather than country chic and there’s a pool, gardens and the beach resorts of the Tyrrhenian Sea a short drive away. Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com Hotel Emilia, Le Marche Doubles from £67, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk With rolling hills, ancient towns and beaches lapped by the limpid waters of the Adriatic, Le Marche’s under-the-radar charms are many. Hotel Emilia commands a haughty spot on the Cornero Riviera, a slice of dreamy coastline south of Ancona mostly given over to a national park. In addition to its 30 guests rooms, there’s a pool, an artsy vibe, a restaurant focusing on local dishes and fabulous sunsets. While you’re there, take the serpentine road down to Portonovo, however. At night the loungers are tidied away and tables are set up on the beach. Seafood is the order of the day, namely the acclaimed wild mussels found in the bay, some of the sweetest you’ll ever taste and harvested in the traditional way. Served in a number of guises; sautéed with lemon, served with spaghetti or with "paccheri" and fennel as is the case at Da Giachetti (ristorantedagiachetti.it). Il Laghetto (illaghetto.com) and Da Emilia (daemilia) are two more to try. Doubles from £67, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
This lush, unspoilt region has plenty to offer foodies beyond its famous cake
Baldwin Ho explains why he keeps trekking back to the Black Forest in Germany every year to dine on the very best that the verdant landscape has to offer.
When you think of the Black Forest, most people think of Black Forest gâteau. And, while this decadent creation is certainly a masterpiece of the region, the extremely fertile terroir has a plethora of gastronomic delights to offer. Immerse yourself in this gourmet region of unspoilt pine forests and scenic hiking routes, and you'll discover countless hidden gems. Here are some the best places to eat and drink in the Black Forest... For more European travel guides, check out our picks of the where to eat in Porto, the best restaurants in Tbilisi, Georgia, the best restaurants in Prague or our favourite European city breaks. Best places to eat and drink in the Black Forest CUBE Restaurant Stuttgart is one of the gateway cities into the Black Forest, and a great starting point. It's one of the greenest cities in Germany, with around 60 per cent dedicated to green space. You'll find some of the most progressive restaurants here, including Cube. The glass architecture ensures the best views of the city, overlooking the Kunstmuseum, and the menu is eclectic, with onsen tamago (low-temperature boiled egg) ramen sitting comfortably beside creamy burrata served with fig and port. It's one of the most cutting-edge restaurants you'll find in the region. cube-restaurant.de Grosser Meyerhof On the other end of the spectrum is Grosser Meyerhof, a must-try when you visit the unofficial capital of the Black Forest, Freiburg. It's one of the oldest taverns in the city, and has a disarming casual vibe with a rustic, wood-heavy interior. This is the kind of eatery where most diners are locals. Dishes are generously portioned and cost around the €10-20, and you can't miss the sizeable pork shoulder with sauerkraut or the comfort food heaven that is the käsespätzle (homemade egg noodles mixed with melted cheese and topped with caramelised onions). grosser-meyerhof.de Dorfstuben For refined country cooking, this restaurant is just the place. Situated inside the ultra-luxury five-star superior Hotel Bareiss, the farmhouse-style rooms ooze quaint charm, with authentic cuckoo clocks and traditional ceramic tile stoves. Personable waitresses even serve you dressed in traditional dirndl attire. It specialises in the regional cuisine that you'd be hard-pressed to find even in other parts of Germany, like the popular Swabian ravioli and apple fritters. You'll also find local fish dishes, as the hotel owns the Buhlbach trout farm nearby. bareiss.com Löwen Buchholz A significant portion of the Black Forest experience revolves around hiking, and you'll find numerous family-run restaurants and hotels in the countryside that serve exceptional dishes – one such spot is Hotel & Gasthaus Löwen Waldkirch-Buchholz, 12km north-east of Freiburg. Surrounded by boutique wineries and Black Forest scenery, this is what makes this region so magical. Local Swabian Hall pork is used for the schnitzel, which has higher marbling and richer flavour. The restaurant also leans heavily into seasonality – in autumn, you'll find plenty of pumpkin in the dishes, from risotto to cream soup. loewen-buchholz.com Restaurant zum Hirschen If you're looking for an authentic, tranquil Black Forest experience, Simonswald is the area to visit, with its lush, natural landscapes. Here, you'll also find Restaurant zum Hirschen, which serves local Swabian maultaschen – sizeable, square-shaped pasta dough pockets filled with a rich mixture of mince, breadcrumbs, spinach, onions and herbs. If you get into a conversation with the staff about Black Forest cake, you'll most likely end up with the iconic dish on your table. They feel that outside of the Black Forest, restaurants might not use kirschwasser (cherry brandy) – and that would be akin to a cardinal sin. To burn off the calories, visit the nearby historic oil mill – it was built in 1712 and fully restored in 2002, and you can purchase the walnut oil to take home. hotel-zum-hirschen.at Markthalle Stuttgart If you don't want to be tied down to the rigidity of a restaurant meal, visit this historic food hall in Stuttgart – an ideal way to explore the diverse culinary scene of the region. Stalls include Wurstliebe by Gustav Breyer, which offers a carefully curated selection of cured meats and high-quality sausages from all over Germany, alongside Swabian burgers (maultaschen in a bun). Here, you'll also find the most popular bakery in the city, Bäcker Baier. Founded in 1835, it's still going strong. markthalle-stuttgart.de Alte Wache Freiburg Another institution is Alte Wache in Freiburg – especially on a warm summer's day. It's a much-loved wine bar in the heart of the old town, directly on the Münsterplatz. It takes pride in being a gateway to Baden wine – you can taste and purchase around 100 bottles, including grauburgunder (pinot gris), spätburgunder (pinot noir) and riesling. The signature drink here is the kalte sofie: similar to a wine slushie, you can choose from a red or white wine option, or a non-alcoholic version. The sweetness is derived only from the addition of grape juice. alte-wache.com 3 foodie experiences in the Black Forest Wine tasting at Moosmann If you prefer wine tasting at an actual winery, consider Weingut Moosmann, located in the centre of Buchholz in the Black Forest. What makes it stand out is that it's very much a family-run affair – you'll be taken on the winery tour by owner Siegfried Moosmann, who will passionately discuss Baden wines for hours on end, even when you suspect he might have more important business to attend to in the winery! It specialises in various pinot varieties, such as spätburgunder, weißburgunder (pinot blanc) and grauburgunder. The dry wines are particularly highly rated, such as the 2019 Alte Reben Spätburgunder. weingut-moosmann.com Tapas hiking tour Culinary hiking tours are all the rage in the Black Forest region, and the Biederbach tapas tour delivers on both a diverse landscape and varied culinary offering. The total experience (and 16km hike) can take up to 8 hours, with three tapas stops along the way. The term "tapas" is used very loosely, as the portions are more akin to a starter, but you're still offered three dishes per stop. You'll pass verdant, sun-drenched meadows as well as towering, evergreen pine forests during your hike. Oberkircher culinary wine hike For another wine-focused experience, there's the Oberkirch wine hike. You'll cover a 7km hiking trail, with multiple stops for food and wine. Oberkirch is one of the most famous wine regions in the Black Forest, so you'll be surrounded by magnificent vineyard landscapes en route. The highlight is ascending to the summit of the Schauenburg Castle ruins for the the most mesmerising views of Oberkirch – it'll make you truly fall in love with the charming Black Forest region. More travel guides Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best restaurants in Valletta Best restaurants in Málaga
Best restaurants in Prague: where a local eats and drinks in the Czech capital
From the best classic Czech breakfast to hidden gems for a drink and refined tasting menus, these are the must-visit restaurants in Prague
Looking for the best places to eat and drink in Prague? Want to discover the city’s neighbourhood food scene beyond the old town? Insider Alexane Said says: “I lived in Prague for eight years and even now I go back every chance I get. Food has always been my way into the city and today, as a food and travel content creator, discovering the best places is my job. From bakeries I still crave to neighbourhood restaurants I return to every trip, playing city guide in Prague is something I’ll never tire of, so I’m thrilled to share my go-to spots here, far from the tourist crowds.” A local's best restaurants in Prague Grab breakfast at Eska Eska is a place I keep coming back to every time I’m in the city. Part bakery, part restaurant, it has two locations, both far from the tourist crowds, but my heart belongs to the Karlín one, set in a seriously cool industrial loft space. I always order the house-baked sourdough or the classic Czech breakfast (with butter, jam, soft-boiled egg, farmer’s cheese, Prague ham, curd cheese and a fermented soft drink) but the semolina porridge, or krupicová kaše (a proper Czech classic), is also a must. eska.ambi.cz Get a local lunch at U Tunelu U Tunelu is a hidden gem in Karlín, a classic Czech pub that feels like stepping into a local’s living room. The food is hearty, comforting and exactly what you want on a grey Prague afternoon. My tip: arrive early to snag a table, order the lunch special of the day, and linger over a draught beer like a true Karlín local. It’s my favourite spot for a relaxed and authentic Prague lunch. utunelu.cz Have the best date night at Alcron Alcron is one of Prague’s most refined dinner destinations, a true city legend since 1932, now reimagined with a modern flair. The tasting menu is full of clever, vegetable-forward dishes that reinvent Central European classics in the most surprising ways. I truly can’t get enough of the bryndza parfait (soft, tangy sheep’s cheese from Slovakia) combined with white chocolate, hazelnuts and apricot purée. Sounds weird, right? But trust me, it’s incredible. Don’t forget to book ahead, it fills up fast. alcronprague.cz/restaurace The most inventive cocktails are at Café Bar Pilotů Tucked away in Vršovice, Café Bar Pilotů serves some of the most inventive cocktails I’ve ever had. And its signature drinks are totally worth the detour. I love grabbing a seat at the bar, chatting with the bartenders and letting them surprise me with something off-menu. It’s the kind of neighbourhood spot you’ll keep coming back to. instagram.com/cafe_bar_pilotu Head to Kolacherie for amazing pastries Kolacherie is my fave spot for a real Czech sweet you actually should try: the koláč. A koláč is a round, yeasted pastry with a soft dough and a sweet filling (traditionally fruit, cheese or poppy seed) that’s been a Czech staple for generations. And, yes, a quick note: trdelník isn’t actually Czech, so skip it here and stick to the real deal. kolacherie.cz Old town’s best-kept secret If you want a true taste of Prague like a local, go to Masna Kozí. This butcher turned canteen serves hearty, ever-changing daily specials and I’m obsessed with the soups, especially the kulajda, a creamy dill and mushroom classic. Grab a beer, find a spot at the counter and let the flavours transport you – it’s rustic, comforting and exactly the kind of gem I love returning to. masnakozi.cz The coolest coffee shop in Prague Cafefin is my happy place for coffee, pastries and people watching. The espresso is spot-on, the brunch menu has fun international touches (Vietnamese-inspired dishes alongside classic pastries) and I cannot resist the ube latte. And, if you’re a true coffee nerd, it has some of the best in Prague. @cafefin.coffee The most unusual fine-dining experience Ready for Prague’s wildest dining experience? Housed in a dramatic stalactite-covered cave beneath Wenceslas Square and full of carved figures and mythic vibes, Triton reinvents Czech classics with a lot of surprising twists. The Czech modern art tasting menu, paired with excellent wines, makes every part of the meal feel like an unforgettable culinary adventure. prague-restaurant.eu A hidden slice of Vietnam in Prague If you think Prague is all svíčková and řízek, Rice Field will make you think again. Tucked away on a quiet Vinohrady street, it serves Vietnamese mâm cơm: family-style spreads of dishes meant for sharing. Vietnamese cuisine has become part of Prague’s foodie scene thanks to the long-established Vietnamese community. I love going with friends to try a bit of everything. ricefieldprague.cz Go for traditional Czech Cuisine at U Šumavy U Šumavy is where I go when I want proper Czech food. The wood-lined, old-school pub feels like stepping back in time and the portions are ridiculously generous. I always go for the plněné bramborové knedlíky uzeným masem (filled potato dumplings with smoked pork and white cabbage) all washed down with, of course, a cold Czech beer. It’s what Prague locals live for. usumavy.cz More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Folegandros: where to eat on this chic Greek island
From coastal tavernas to five-star hotels, these are the Folegandros foodie destinations to know
Near to Milos, the diminutive Greek island of Folegandros is becoming a foodie destination for those in the know. From cocktails at a five-star hotel to regional cuisine you'll only find on the island, these are the must-visit places to eat to add to your list. For more Greek travel inspiration, check out our guides to 5 lesser known destinations to visit in mainland Greece or the best Greek food trips. 5 of the best places to eat in Folegandros Irene’s Folegandros has lots of reasons to visit, including deserted rocky beaches and its own riff on Greek cuisine. One of the dishes you’ll only find on the island is matsata. This thick, homemade pasta is best eaten at Irene’s, a roadside restaurant run by a grandmother and granddaughter. You can’t miss it – there’s only one real road that cuts through this 6-mile by 2-mile island – though it looks unassuming from the outside. You’ll get a warm welcome within, plus heaps of matsata with slow-braised rooster or pork ragu (it’s not a looker, but it is delicious). @irene_restaurant_folegandros Pasithea Another classic local dish is fava, a hummus-like dip made with yellow split peas that makes the perfect accompaniment to hot, fluffy flatbread. The best we’ve tried on the island is served at Pasithea, which overlooks Folegandros’s most popular beach, Agali. It’s just the spot for a languid lunch of fried red mullet and filo feta with honey as you watch swimmers roll out their colourful towels onto the sand below, contemplating your own dip after lunch. @pasithea_folegandros To Goupi In a pretty, tree-covered square in the main town of Chora, To Goupi is as good for people watching as it is for dinner – amble down to it after seeing the sun sink into the sea from beneath the hilltop Panagia church. On its outdoor chalkboard you’re likely to see specials such as meat and cheese balls, grilled octopus and a moussaka-like dish of potato, cheese and aubergine. Gundari The bar is the best thing about rugged-luxury five-star hotel Gundari, which looks down on plunging cliffs on a quieter side of the island. The cocktail menu has been created by acclaimed Athens bar Line (currently number eight on the World’s 50 Best Bars list) and guests can choose between sunset negronis by the pool or soaking up the vinyl being played in its moody Japanese kissa-style drinking den. gundari.com Papalagi A 15-minute stroll along the coast from the sands of Agali, Papalagi is perched on a hill looking down onto Agios Nikolaos beach. This coastal taverna serves all the Greek classics and is well worth the cliff walk to get there (arriving by boat is also an option, though you might prefer to work up an appetite for lunch). On the menu, you’ll find the likes of lobster, whole grilled octopus, anchovy bruschetta and catch-of-the-day linguini – all with a side of sea views. Where to stay in Folegandros Anemi Making the most of its traditional Aegean dome architecture, five-star Anemi offers a modern take on Cycladic style: picture white-washed walls with pops of colour and bedrooms with subtly sculptural furniture and décor. Next to Chochlidia beach, this sister property to design-focused Athens Was offers high-end spa facilities, an outdoor pool with sea views (some suites have private pools) and a yoga deck. anemihotel.gr More travel guides Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
11 unique foodie-friendly hiking trails in Europe
From fruit orchards in France to cheese trails in Switzerland, these are the ultimate foodie hikes to know
Exploring destinations on foot provides fantastic insights into regions, cultures and local life which simply wouldn’t be possible when travelling by car. The best bit? Some of the most fascinating guided walking trails are food-themed ones, providing brilliant opportunities to fuel explorations with regional delicacies and mouthwatering insights into the ingredients you’re most likely to find on local menus. To sate your appetite, we’ve taken a closer look at our favourite food-themed walking trails, designed for hikers craving a deep dive into 11 European destinations famous for their gastronomy. Green Route 3, Valencia, Spain Valencia’s Green Routes are a mouthwatering tangle of hiking trails, perfect for walkers keen to learn more about the region’s culinary offerings. Route Three takes in Valencia’s so-called pantries: L’Albufera Natural Park (the birthplace of paella), fruit orchards, rice fields and stunning stretches of Mediterranean coastline. The countless family-run restaurants lining the route include Villa Indiano, where Chabe Soler (winner of the first Paella World Cup) serves up dishes inspired by traditional Valencian cookbooks. “While our paella is iconic, I recommend lesser-known dishes which showcase Valencia’s sea, farmland and wetlands,” says Soler. “Anguila i napicol, prepared with eel from the Albufera, captures the essence of our wetlands, and arròs amb bledes, made with vegetables from La Huerta, reflects the richness of our farmland.” Stay at La Mozaira, a charming boutique hotel. Much of the ingredients used by La Mozaira’s restaurant comes from the hotel’s gardens. Route des Fruits, Normandy, France Normandy’s Route des Fruits, which connects Jumièges and Duclair, is a 62-kilometre hiking and cycling trail weaving through Normandy’s most fertile farmlands and along the River Seine. The microclimate here is perfect for fruit growing, and the area’s famous white cliffs are the star of the show, reflecting heat while offering protection from cold winds. Highlights include the cherry and plum trees and the redcurrant, raspberry and blackcurrant bushes growing along the route, along with the fifth-century Abbaye et parc de Jumièges, one of France’s oldest Benedictine monasteries (its monks initially grew vines before replacing them with apple and pear trees). Base yourself at Domaine le Clos des Fontaines, where bedrooms are in historic half-timbered buildings, and where aches and pains can be soothed at the hotel’s spa. Wine and Fish Route (GR38), Basque Country, Spain This 166-kilometre route (don’t panic – it’s easily broken down into shorter stretches) begins in the historic town of Oyón before twisting its way to Bermeo, via vineyards, the Cantabrian Mountains and ancient beech forests. It’s a brilliant route for hikers who want to explore beyond La Rioja’s famous vineyards, walking in the footsteps of fishermen, farmers and traders who sold their produce at local markets. There are numerous opportunities for detours, whether it’s the small town of Getaria where hikers can tour its anchovy factory, Pasaia, with its fisherman’s taverns and family-run seafood restaurants, or Navarre, where specialities include sweet, smoky cheese made with milk from the local Latxa sheep. For a vineyard stay with a real wow factor, consider Hotel Viura, a four-star hotel surrounded by vines and with a striking cubic design inspired by stacks of cubes. The Hallertau Hop Trail, Bavaria, Germany A meandering 170-kilometre hiking and cycling route which passes through the Hallertau (otherwise known as the world’s largest hop-growing area), the start of this trail is just a few kilometres from Munich, so you can pair the city break with a walk along the trail. Information boards along the route provide fascinating insights into hops, known here as 'green gold', and grown on tall trellises which line much of the trail. Equally stunning are the towns you’ll pass through – places like Wolnzach, where a traditional maypole towers over the town square. It’s also where you’ll find the German Hops Museum, where exhibits include a display of beer bottles representing the thousands of brands (whether it’s Singha or Sam Adams) that use Hallartau hops. Stay at the old town’s luxurious Rosewood hotel and you’ll be just a short walk from the legendary Hofbrauhaus where you can pair freshly-baked pretzels with huge steins of beer. Schladminger Tauern High Trail, Styria, Austria This 70-kilometre route, stretching from Hochwurzen to St. Nikolai im Sölktal, is another one easily broken down into shorter stages, although it’s also lined with cosy mountain refuges perfect for hikers tackling it in one go. Top tip: choose mountain huts that display the Austrian Alpine Association’s “So schmecken die Berge” (taste of the mountains) certification seal so you can try the finest local cuisine – such as local delicacy Ennstaler Steirerkas, a cow’s milk cheese which is both spicy and sour. At The Waldhaeuslalm, a pretty mountain hut where delicacies include Kaspreßknödelsuppe (cheese dumpling soup), you’ll enjoy striking views over the Untertal valley – one of several breathtaking spots along the route. “For me, the most spectacular sight on the trail is the Klafferkessel,” says local hiking guide Gerhard Pilz. “It’s a plateau 2,300m above sea-level with around 30 lakes scattered across the high alpine scenery. The Schladminger Tauern range’s tallest mountains frame this plateau, and with the lakes and flora it feels like another world." Engelberg Alpine Cheese Trail, Engelberg, Switzerland Unsurprisingly, there’s no shortage of cheese on this 47-kilometre alpine trail, which winds around the Engelberg region. Seven dairies (all of which can be visited on guided tours) and numerous mountain restaurants line the route. One of the most awe-inspiring sections of the hike is the stretch which snakes through the waterfall-dotted Surenental valley, home to three alpine dairies. Energy levels dwindling? You can rest weary legs by hopping on a cable car for one of the steepest ascents. It’s another route with plenty of opportunities to sample local delicacies, one of which is Älplermagronen. “Everyone should try Älplermagronen,” says Ruedi Zurfluh, co-owner of the family-run Alp Hobiel, a hig-altitude mountain hut on the western side of Engelberg’s Surenen Pass. “This dish, made from pasta and potatoes, lots of cheese, a little cream and garnished with roasted onions, is best enjoyed with apple sauce.” Carb coma here we come… The Tissington Trail, Peak District, UK Foodies love the Peak District for its local, seasonal cuisine, with regional specialities such as Bakewell tarts and crumpet-like pikelets. There’s no shortage of local treats for those hiking this easy-going 20-kilometre hiking and cycling route stretching between Parsley Hay and Ashbourne. Sitting in the footprint of the former London and North Western Railway, the trail was once used to transport milk from Derbyshire to London. You'll pass through old station platforms and signal boxes, while wildflowers such as cowslips provide bursts of colour in spring and summer. The historic town of Ashbourne, which has over 200 listed buildings, is famous for its gingerbread, first made with a recipe obtained from the French prisoners of war kept here during the Napoleonic wars (1799-1815). Other essential stop-offs include Hartington, known as a centre of cheese production. Head to the Hartington Cheese Shop to sample local cheeses such as the Hartington Bombardier – a strong creamy cheddar. In Tissington Village, refuel at Herbert’s Tearoom, with its exposed brickwork and vintage chandeliers. We recommend the Derbyshire oatcakes with caramelised onion. Saar-Hunsrück-Steig Trail, Upper Moselle, Germany For a truly monumental hike, consider this 415-kilometre route, which is split into 27 stages and connects the Roman city of Trier with Boppard on the Rhine. Short on time? We suggest tackling Stage Five, which passes the Losheim Reservoir and offers ample opportunities to try local cuisine, whether it’s at one of the cafés in riverside Weiskirchen (Café Louis’s cakes are legendary) or a restaurant on the banks of Lake Losheim. Try Hochwälder Braugasthaus, where the menu is inspired by the tri-border region of France, Luxembourg and Saarland. Another popular local ingredient is the Saarland potato, used to make dishes such as dibbelabbes, an oven-baked potato-leek hash with bacon. Potatoes also dominate the menu at Kell am See’s Hotel zur Post, where almost everything comes from local suppliers. “Our Hochwälder Kartoffel-Röstinchens (Hochwald potato roasts) with peach chutney are especially popular,” says owner Michael Krämer. The Menalon Trail, Arcadia, Greece Another long-distance route, the 75-kilometre Menalon Trail is divided into eight stages. It connects the villages of Stemnitsa and Lagkadia, weaving through stunning natural landscapes such as the Lousios River Gorge, the Mylaion River valley and mountainous Gortynia. And you’ll never go hungry; in Arcadia, every town and village has its own speciality, whether it’s pasto (fragrant smoked pork), galatopita, which are pies made with milk and sugar or Mantinia wine, famous for its floral notes. One of the most popular stretches of the walk connects Zigovisti and Elati, mountain villages surrounded by springs and perched on the edge of the breathtaking Vlachika Plateau. The trail is lined with small hotels and tavernas, although you’ll find the widest range of hotels in Vytina, including the sleek Nymfasia Resort, where the Luxury Suite comes with its very own sauna. Signature Trail, Stockholm, Sweden Sweden’s Signature Trails are designed to showcase the country’s most beautiful landscapes, and this easily accessible route, which covers 62 kilometres and passes through parks, forests and historic estates on the city’s outskirts, provides a whole new perspective on Sweden’s capital. It’s easily broken down into smaller sections, whether it’s Section One, which connects Kallhäll and Barkarby and where farms such as Eggby Farm and Överjärva Farm, both of which have cafés, double as brilliant pitstops, or the Överjärva Farm–Gärdet stretch, where inlets such as Edsviken offer the perfect opportunity for a dip in the Baltic sea, followed by a fika (the coffee and cake fix beloved by Swedes) at one of the many cafés. Try Gateau Edsviken for the delicious vanilla buns or salted caramel pastries. Or both… Olive Trail, Garda Trentino, Italy Created in 2024, this short-and-sweet seven-kilometre trail twists between the olive groves of Arco. You’ll find over 40,000 olive trees here, along with numerous opportunities to learn about olive oil production, including at agritourism hotels such as Agriturismo Maso Botes, which offers olive oil tasting masterclasses and tours of their on-site mill. For the most beautiful views, local olive producer Andrea Santuliana suggests heading for the Baone Slabs, a craggy landscape between Riva del Garda and Lake Garda. “My favourite stretch of the trail winds along the foothills of the Baone Slabs – a truly unique place, where one can admire the tenacity and quiet resilience of centuries-old olive trees, rooted in the harsh, stony ground known in the local dialect as preèra.” Related content Best hotels in Wales Best UK islands for food lovers European hidden gem hotels 10 best European hotels with Michelin starred restaurants Best day trips from London by train Best seaside staycations Best restaurants in St Albans Best new restaurants in the UK
Why I love The Julian Alps, Slovenia's lush green region
David Žefran, head chef of two-Michelin-starred Milka in Slovenia, shares what makes the cuisine of his home region unique
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of this mountainous region so special from local chef David Žefran. From wine harvest celebrations to forest floor foraging and freshwater seafood, there is plenty for foodies to enjoy. Make sure you include a couple of days in the capital exploring Ljubljana's best restaurants. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, Istria in Croatia, the Algarve in Portugal or Cork in Ireland. Julian Alps cuisine: 10 things we love Cross-alpine culture The beautiful thing about culture and cuisine is it can’t be contained. Slovenian produce and traditions are intertwined with those from neighbouring countries across the region – Italian snails and Austrian strawberry farms, for example, might be the closest to us to source. Ottoman legacy The Ottomans brought with them a love of grilled meats and fried breads. A popular dish still on many menus in the area is čevapčiči – small Bosnian-style shish kebabs in a grilled lepinja bread pocket topped with kaymak cheese that slowly melts into the bread, often served with roasted peppers. Austro-Hungarian influence The Austro-Hungarian empire left its mark on Slovenian cuisine – think Hungarian goulash with polenta, fluffy shredded kaiserschmarrn and potato dumplings, or knödels, filled with apricot or plum. Family-run gostilnas still serve this style of food, preserving the heritage. Agrarian culture The region is rooted in agricultural practices so we have many hearty mountain dishes to sustain through the winter – kranjska klobasa sausages with fermented cabbage, ričet barley stew and jota, a sauerkraut and bean stew. Walnuts are everywhere We are lucky to have walnut trees all over the region and we use the crop in everything from liqueurs to breads and sweet treats. They are rolled with buckwheat dough and soured cream into štruklji dumplings or baked into sweet dough to create potica for special occasions. Freshwater fish Our lakes and rivers are abundant with freshwater seafood, from the Drava’s crayfish to the Soča river’s trout and Lake Bohinj’s char. We often eat this fresh and grilled with seasonal vegetables and salads. Wild game We have a responsibility to adapt to our environment, for example during venison hunting season we enjoy everything from venison stew with mash and lingonberry jam to deer heart ragu. I also use game meat in elevated dishes such as wild boar ’nduja and beetroot with bear fat sauce. Forest floor foraging Foraging is part of life here. We forage frequently from the forest floor and mountain ridges. Yields include an eclectic variety of wild herbs, spruce tips, pine cones and ramsons, often dried into Julian Alps tea. Families forage blueberries to create their own unique desserts, for example traditional sweet omelette, pohorska omleta, filled with fresh berries and wild blueberry jam. Wine harvest celebrations Slovenia has a rich wine culture and Martinovanje, or St Martin’s Day, is one of our most joyful traditions. After the grapes are pressed and fermentation begins we celebrate with roast duck or goat with red cabbage and mlinci – crispy flatbread softened by pouring beef broth over the top. Eco-conscious culture Slovenia is a green country with sustainability deeply embedded into its customs. Many of us have gardens where we grow mostly organic produce, harvesting only what we need. There is something special about picking something fresh and cooking it immediately. More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
From the buzz of capital city Lisbon to the beachy wilderness of Comporta, these are the best places to visit in Portugal for foodies
Looking for food trips to take in Portugal? Check out our guide to the best places across the country to eat and drink, from the must-visit cities of Porto and Lisbon to eating on the beach in Comporta, vineyard stays for wine fans and discovering local pastries in the countryside. For more travel inspiration, check out our best French food trips, best Spanish food trips or best Morocco food trips. Not sure where to go? Browse our guide to the best European city breaks or our picks of the best European vineyards to visit. 8 best Portuguese food trips Lisbon For a budget-friendly city break Portugal's buzzing capital has undergone something of a culinary revolution. Time Out Market is a well-known stop on any Lisbon food journey for a reason, with 30 of the city’s best chefs selling small, reasonably priced plates alongside local wines and fresh lemonade, from a gathering of stalls. Another popular spot is Ramiro, serving great-value seafood in a rustic setting with a buzzy atmosphere. For modern spins on Portuguese cuisine, try Mini Bar for contemporary tapas and cocktails or Prado for updated versions of classic Portuguese dishes. For shopping, head out of the centre of the city to LX Factory, where Lisbon’s young creatives have set up shop in dozens of old fabric factories, with a flea market taking place every Sunday. Check out our full guide to the best places to eat in Lisbon for more ideas. Where to stay: North of Lisbon’s botanical gardens, in a 20th-century townhouse in the Praça das Amoreiras area, you'll find Casa Amora. Each bedroom in this charming B&B is inspired by a different Portuguese figure, from poets to Fado singers, actresses and painters. Soak up the charm of dazzling ceramic tiles, private balconies, embellished ceilings and wrought-iron bath tubs. Casa Amora’s cook, Nita, has been there since day one and her homemade breakfasts in the colourful courtyard – featuring pastéis de nata, almond cake and homemade jams to spread onto warm croissants, along with local charcuterie, fresh orange juice and coffee – are legendary. Doubles from £155, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Porto For eating like a local Located in the north of the country, Portugal's elegant second city should be next on your list if you've already ticked off Lisbon. Get stuck into the local tipple with a tasting flight of port at Taylor's Port House, worth the climb up the hill and over the famous Luís I bridge. For more traditional delicacies, Manteigaria is still the must-visit bakery for warm pastel de nata and you'll be queuing alongside locals at A Casa Guedes for loaded pork sandwiches. If you're self-catering or just like to explore a good food market, the 19th-century Mercado do Bolhão dazzles with fruit and veg, cured hams, regional cheeses and freshly caught fish. Check out our full guide to Porto for more inspiration and top restaurant picks. Where to stay: Rosa Et Al Townhouse is a six-room boutique hotel complete with a dinky walled garden to eat breakfast in the sunshine. Rooms feature original wooden floorboards, cornicing and sash windows that lead to balconies, and are made even more beautiful with claw-footed baths, contemporary furniture and local art. The reception desk even doubles up as a trendy food shop. Doubles from £111, check availability at booking.com. Cascais For a seaside break Just 30 minutes outside Lisbon sits Cascais, a port town with a sparkling beach that attracts day-trippers and weekenders from the city. Start your day at old-school Sacolinha, a bakery on Cascais' main palm-tree-lined street, for breakfast custard tarts and mini cheesecakes to take to the beach. If you're visiting on a Wednesday or Saturday, take time to explore the traditional market in the morning before it slows after lunch. It's only right to have seafood while you're on the coast – our pick is Marisco na Praça. The bustling fish market sits on the other side of a glass wall partition – head to the counter and choose your catch, then watch as chefs prepare simple dishes from it. For vegetarians, Galeria House of Wonders serves some of the best veggie food in town, including homemade tortilla wraps and cumin-spiked shakshuka. Head up to the vibrant rooftop for the best seats. Pick up an afternoon ice cream from family-run Santini (which also has shops in Lisbon and Porto). For sundowners with ocean views, head to Bago a Vin, with its terrace and panoramic views. See our full guide to Cascais for more ideas. Alentejo For exploring Portugal's rural heartland Field-to-fork and vine-to-glass are ways of life in Portugal’s fertile heartland. Fuel a tour of the region’s hilltop villages and rolling country estates with local delicacies and hearty traditional dishes. Wander the streets of the whitewashed village Monsaraz and stop off at Sabores de Monsaraz for lunch. Pork is king here: you eat every part, cooked just about every way – especially if the meat in question (as in this case) is porco preto, from black pigs fed on the acorns of the oaks that cloak the plains below the village. Next, wine buffs should head south through wildly beautiful landscapes studded with cork oaks and rosette-like rock roses to visit small family-run wine estate Quetzal, owned by the Dutch de Bruins family. Here, a state-of-the-art winery combines viticulture with food and modern art; works from the de Bruins’ collection are exhibited below the estate’s restaurant. Visit the medieval walled city of Evora for traditional pastries at Pastelaria Conventual Pão de Rala, petiscos (Portugal's equivalent of tapas) at Botequim da Mouraria's tiny counter, and the renowned partridge stew at Fialho. Where to stay: the São Lourenço do Barrocal estate has been owned by the same family for 200 years. Its farming traditions live on but are now combined with five-star hospitality; cowsheds and old farmworkers’ quarters have been turned into simple but stylish hotel accommodation with brick floors and locally woven fabrics. Don't be fooled by the simple decor – there's also a glamorous 20-metre pool, spa and impressive hotel bar and restaurant. Doubles from £491, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Comporta For beach chic For a weekend of local wines, fresh seafood and earthy rice dishes head an hour south of Lisbon to the wild sand-fringed coastline, pine forests and stylish beach retreats of Comporta. The area has long been protected by its status as a nature reserve (at its northern end is the Sado estuary, home to bottlenose dolphins, flamingos and storks). Add into the mix a handful of hippie-chic shops and galleries, local vineyards, upmarket horse riding and kayaking operators, a smattering of rustic rice and seafood restaurants – plus a couple of more elegant options for craft cocktails and finer Portuguese dining – and you have a recipe for the perfect summer weekend away. Comporta itself is a small, pretty village lined with cobbled streets, blue-and-white-painted rice barns, shuttered low-rise buildings and sweet-scented Indian neem trees. Restaurante São João is a popular spot serving traditional dishes including select-at-the-table starter trays, brimming pots of seafood rice and chocolate mousse for dessert, while Cavalarica is a beautifully elegant restaurant and cocktail joint set in an old stables right in the centre of town. Join the locals at Cegonha, a simple roadside restaurant specialising in grilled meat and fish cooked over coals, served in huge portions. Rumour has it that local chefs eat at Dona Bia, which serves traditional regional fare including porco Alentejana (a classic dish of pork and clams). Where to stay: the 17-acre estate of Sublime Comporta, its rooms, suites and cabana villas peppered among umbrella pines, cork trees, frangipane flowers and olives, is a blueprint for low-impact hotel design – stylish and subtle rather than dominating the surrounding landscape. Inside all is minimal and white, with the odd pop of polished concrete or warm wood. Though not directly on the beach (the closest is a five-minute drive away), the vibe is that of a grown-up, romantic beach retreat. There’s also a dedicated spa, using organic Amala products for its range of soothing treatments, and a yoga pavilion. Doubles from £561, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com L’and Vineyards For wine buffs This elegant 26-suite spa hotel combines contemporary design and gourmet cooking, set among vineyards in Portugal’s Alentejo region, an hour’s drive from Lisbon. A meal in the futuristic, pendant-hung restaurant, whose glass walls frame the vineyards, is the big draw. Chef José Tapadejo was born nearby in Castelo de Vide and trained in Portugal, but he’s also worked in Scandinavia, so his dishes are creative interpretations of regional classics, often using fermented and foraged ingredients – local black pork, scarlet prawns and pike-perch, on a cushion of Alentejo’s must-eat migas. Being surrounded by six hectares of organic vineyards, you’ll want to taste L’and’s own wines, made from a blend of native grapes, such as Touriga Nacional, and international varieties such as Alicante Bouschet and Syrah. Pick of the bunch is L’and’s full-bodied Reserva Red 2016. On site you can do tastings, and vineyard and winery tours, and the hotel can arrange visits to neighbouring vineyards too. Doubles from £197, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Algarve For gourmet coastline Fringed by limestone coastline and sandy coves, Portugal’s Algarve region is a stunning foodie destination. Seafood is a highlight, but black pork, sheep’s cheese, olives, oregano, tomatoes and oranges are also cultivated locally – and are easily found at local farmers’ markets, beach shacks and restaurants. Homemade piri piri chicken or shrimp, an Algarve speciality, is everywhere, and in the mountains beyond the coast, you’ll find aromatic pork stews, slow-cooked wild boar and honey cake. On the coast, try cataplanas and copper pots brimming with fresh seafood and rice. Visit Olhão's vibrant fish market, hop on a ferry to the sandy beaches of Armona Island and cycle along the Fuseta eco trail in the wetlands, home to oyster farms, eclectic birds and two families of flamingos. Where to stay: In the heart of a residential hamlet on the border of the Algarve’s Ria Formosa lagoon, Carlos Fernandes has lovingly converted his grandparents’ house into a striking boutique hotel. Many original features remain – Santa Catarina flooring, curved brick ceilings and stone fireplaces – interspersed with tasteful Algarvian knick-knacks for pops of colour. An honesty bar is stocked with Algarvian wines and Portuguese spirits. Continental breakfast is served home-style, laid on lace tablecloths in the kitchen. Make your selection from the likes of carrot and saffron bundt cake, fruits hand-plucked from the property, and Portuguese cold cuts – order your preference of eggs and take to the poolside terrace to enjoy beneath the dappled shade of the trees. Doubles from €220 per night, check availability at booking.com or welcomebeyond.com Tavira For historical charm The cobbled streets of Tavira are filled with historical charm – explore plenty of churches in the old town and Tavira Castle (a partially ruined medieval fortress), then follow the river down to the coastline for unspoiled wide sandy beaches and nearby islands to explore, accessible by ferry. The coastal location on the eastern Algarve means there is seafood aplenty here, with octopus and cataplana stew being must try dishes. Where to stay: Just a 10-minute drive from Tavira, Conversas de Alpendre is a family-run boutique hotel that offers the best of both coast and countryside. More homestay than hotel, the small farmhouse is simply adorned with tiles, fabrics and artefacts from the eastern Algarve, set within sprawling grounds of orchards, orange groves and a sleek saltwater pool. The hotel has traditional rooms and suites along with a stunning treehouse that sits more than six metres high atop a carob tree. It boasts two private terraces with sweeping views of the ocean on one side and the countryside on the other. The food here leans into its Portuguese roots with hints of neighbouring Spanish influences, and is based on local seasonal ingredients. Complimentary homemade cake is available daily. Come evening, a set surprise menu is an option – a different three-course meal each night, featuring dishes like slow-cooked beef brisket, fresh fish and traditional desserts like arroz doce, a Portuguese rice pudding. Breakfast runs at a gentle pace and is served until late in the day, with fresh bread, regional cheeses, homemade jams and local fruit on offer. Check rates and availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or en.conversasdealpendre.com More travel guides Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best Irish holidays for food lovers – Dublin, Cork, Galway and more
From restaurant-hopping city breaks to discovering artisan producers in the countryside and seafood-fuelled road trips, here's our pick of Irish holidays
Looking for Irish holiday ideas? Ireland is all about charm, great local produce and unique rural experiences, making it the perfect break for a food lover. Discover Dublin and Belfast’s delightful bistros and lively pubs, Galway’s artsy coastal vibes and seafood spots, bustling seaside towns or the green pastures inland, home to cider orchards, friendly farmers and even buffalo herds. These are our top picks of the best Irish holidays, with restaurants and bars to visit in each destination, including some Irish hotels to use as your base. For more hotel inspiration, check out the best UK boutique hotels, UK gastro pubs with rooms, best restaurants with rooms and and UK spa hotels for food lovers. Also see our city guides for the best restaurants in Belfast and best restaurants in Dublin. Best Irish holidays for food lovers Cork – for riverside luxury Cork is one of Ireland’s foodie hotspots. Get lost in the famous English Market, a covered warren of brilliant Irish food and drink producers. Café Paradiso has been open since 1993 serving refined but adventurous vegetarian food on a six-course testing menu. For drinks, head to Cask for expertly crafted cocktails or Arthur Mayne's for interesting wine and craft beer lists in quirky surroundings. Further out in the County Cork countryside, Toon's Bridge Dairy is a remarkable cheese producer making mozzarella, burrata, scamorza and more – you can find the produce at the English Market as well as its own pizzeria from April onwards. Where to stay in Cork: A luxury riverside hotel, River Lee Hotel is a warm and friendly space, flooded with light from windows that frame the entire building. The river-facing rooms are particularly pretty with views extending up past the Victorian buildings opposite to the rolling hills beyond. Bathrooms are fitted with baths and walk-in showers, and the large comfy beds have cosy duck down duvets. The Grill Room restaurant serves a classic hearty menu with Irish fish and meat taking centre stage, while the smart bar serves well-crafted cocktails. Breakfast is a lavish spread, with a huge buffet selection (including homemade soda bread and banana bread) and luxurious hot breakfast menu to choose from. Doubles from £205 per night, check availability at doylecollection.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk. Derry – for a growing food scene This Northern Irish city is a haven for foodies, with a burgeoning food scene and new openings every week. Seafood shines here: the fishing port of Greencastle, just 20 miles outside of Derry, means the city is supplied with super fresh langoustines, scallops and oysters. There's a lot of love for traditional Irish food so visitors should try boxty (Irish potato pancakes), local cheeses and award-winning Northern Irish pork. Drinks lovers have plenty to discover in Derry too. Irish whiskey is famous worldwide, but Derry has producers making other top-quality spirits as well: from Wild Atlantic Distillery which makes a great award-winning gin and some really high-end beautiful whiskeys, to Niche Drinks making St Brendan’s, which you won’t find outside Ireland but is a cream liqueur made in Derry. You're equally spoilt for choice with breweries: Walled City Brewery (who make an oyster stout made from leftover oyster shells), Northbound Brewery and Rough Brothers are just a few to visit. Dublin – for whiskey lovers You won't be short of things to do on a city break in Dublin, the capital of the Republic of Ireland. The compact city centre, divided in two by the River Liffey, is easily walkable when exploring, with the broader city made up of villages. A visit to the Jameson Distillery is a must for whiskey lovers, while beer fans should visit the Rascals Brewing taproom, which also serves great pizza. Bread-making is a treasured art form in Ireland and Dublin’s organic bakery, Bread 41, has caught the attention of bakers across the world due to its excellent sourdough, with grains milled in-house and unique sourdough loaves spruced up with local cheeses, new-season Carola potatoes and garlic. If you're visiting for a long weekend, Bastible serves Sunday roasts (as well as fabulous midweek tasting menus) in an innovative way with tasting dishes to share. Check out our full guide to the best restaurants in Dublin. Where to stay in Dublin: Stay in the heart of the action at The Dylan Hotel, just 750m from the live music, bars and restaurants of Grafton Street. Dublin's only five-star boutique hotel, it has contemporary décor throughout and a luxurious modern feel. Enjoy a full Irish breakfast in The Eddison, the hotel restaurant, and sip cocktails in the Ruby Room bar. Doubles from £183 per night, check availability at dylan.ie, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com. Galway – for a bohemian feel Discover bohemian Galway City on Ireland’s wild west coast, as well as the wider Galway county beyond. For a Michelin-starred experience, Aniar (Gaelic for ‘from the west’) is named because its dishes are inspired solely by County Galway’s fields and its rugged Atlantic coast; imported lemons and black pepper are out, vinegars and seaweed-based ‘spices’ crafted in house are in. To extend flavours and seasons, chefs draw on age-old traditions of salting, fermenting and pickling. For location, Ard Bia at Nimmos, near the city’s historic Spanish Arch and rainbow-hued Long Walk, wins out – visit for brunch or dinner. On Saturdays, foodie folk flock to Galway’s quaint street market for The Bean Tree’s madras curries, Greenfeast’s Irish vegetable-packed Vietnamese bánh mì, and BoyChik’s freshly made donuts. Where to stay in Galway: Base your trip at The Stop in the creative West End neighbourhood of Galway City, five minutes walk from the centre of the city and half a mile from the coast, giving you the best of both worlds. Rooms have bright minimalist design (with family rooms available) and the buffet breakfast focussed on local produce and home baking is a highlight. Doubles from £148 per night, check availability at thestopgalway.com or booking.com. Belfast – for a classic city break Tick the capital city of Northern Ireland off your wishlist with a visit to Belfast. Start by browsing St George’s Market, an indoor treasure trove of arts and crafts, as well as produce stalls selling everything from specialist Irish cheeses to freshly landed oysters and rare-breed meat and game. There’s also a huge variety of food stalls for lunch – try the Cuban Sandwich Factory’s Pollo Barbacoa, a hot grilled sandwich stuffed with marinated chicken, salsa, cheese and chilli sauce. On weekends there’s live music in the communal table area to listen to as you eat. Neighbourhood favourite Il Pirata serves rustic Italian food, or for a meal at the other end of the spectrum, book dinner at Michelin-starred Ox for a meal with a river view. Learn some Irish cookery skills of your own with a class at the Belfast Cookery School. Where to stay in Belfast: Expect panoramic views and Northern Ireland’s highest rooftop bar when staying at The Grand Central, a large, luxury hotel in the heart of Belfast’s Linen Quarter. Despite the grandeur and scale of 300 rooms, there is still plenty of cosy Irish charm. Rooms are spacious, calm and luxuriously furnished with king-size King Koil Cloud beds, smart white linen and thick, noise-cancelling carpets. The bathrooms are particularly swish with double sinks, freestanding baths, walk-in rainfall showers and toiletries by ESPA. The 23rd floor rooftop Observatory Bar is a must-visit to take in the views, before or after dinner – it's a trendy spot for Belfasters and has cocktails named after local landmarks. Doubles from £155 per night, check availability at grandcentralhotelbelfast.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk. County Waterford – for foodie festival Spend a foodie weekend in County Waterford. If visiting in September, the streets come alive with stalls for Waterford’s harvest festival: restaurants put on produce-led supper clubs, and tents host demos from foodies. Stop off at Seagull Bakery in nearby Tramore for a taste of Sarah Richard’s sweet treats – sticky vanilla buns, spiced apple danishes and cinnamon swirls with glossy caramel coating. Work off the pastries on one of The Sea Gardener’s guided coastal walks, foraging for seaweed and learning how to cook with it on beaches. Where to stay in County Waterford: Tannery Townhouse in Dungarvan is a boutique hotel, cookery school and restaurant. Sleep in one of the 14 simple, elegant bedrooms and wake up for full Irish breakfasts in the morning. Spend a day in the cookery school during your stay, and have dinner just round the corner and enjoy the changing seasonal menu. Doubles from £154, check availability at tannery.ie or booking.com. Portrush – for a seaside break One of Northern Ireland's most popular resorts, the seaside town of Portrush (pictured above) has three sandy beaches to explore and a pretty pier. It sits on the Causeway Coastal Route so is a great place to stop off, with plenty of foodie spots making it worth the visit. Stroll down the pier and pick up a coffee at Babushka (don't miss its sweet treats to snack on, too). Local produce is showcased at Ocho Tapas, in nearby Coleraine, with an Iberian-inspired menu using Irish produce. Seafood is a highlight, from mussels to hot-smoked trout, but there are plenty of interesting vegetarian dishes, too. Spend the evening in The Harbour Bar, a historic pub where you can enjoy classic Guinness, a selection of Irish gins and live music performances. Where to stay in Portush: Blackrock House is a smart townhouse converted into a luxurious B&B. Be greeted by welcome drinks and whiskey cake, or take in the views from the balcony overlooking West Bay with a tipple from the whiskey honesty bar. There are four rooms with king-size beds, compact en suites and plenty of extra touches to make the rooms memorable – think homemade fudge, hot water bottles and binoculars for taking in the views. Enjoy a traditional fry-up breakfast in the front room, or alternatively take a loaded breakfast bap (filled with poached eggs, bacon and caramelised onion relish) down to the beach. Doubles from £160 per night, check availability at blackrockbandbportrush.com. Dingle – for local specialities Explore the colourful shops, zigagging streets and bustling harbour of Dingle and its sparkling bay. The food scene is so strong there is an annual Dingle Food Festival every October, but you'll be spoilt for choice all year round. On sunny days, pick up local speciality seaweed-speckled cheese from The Little Cheese Shop for a picnic and enjoy homemade Dingle sea salt ice cream from Murphy's. On blustery days, stay cosy with a bowl of creamy chowder from Out of the Blue. Drinks enthusiasts will enjoy the craft beers and live music at O’Sullivan’s Courthouse Pub, or visit Dingle Distillery for a tour and chance to try the locally produced gin. Where to stay in Dingle: Stay at family-run B&B Castlewood House, just a five-minute walk from the centre of town with rooms overlooking the sparkling bay. Breakfast is a highlight: alongside a buffet including homemade compôtes and bread and butter pudding, owners Brian and Helen cook traditional Irish dishes such as kippers with scrambled eggs or decadent whiskey-laced porridge. Make sure you leave room during your stay for afternoon tea served in the front room. Doubles from £130 per night, check availability at castlewooddingle.com. More travel inspiration... 12 small towns across the UK every foodie should visit The UK's best pubs with rooms UK boutique hotels for food lovers 10 exciting UK city breaks for food lovers Best restaurants with rooms UK spa hotels for food lovers Best romantic UK hotels Best seaside staycations Best country hotels
Looking for places to visit in Spain? Check out our top Spanish food trips, from pintxos in San Sebastian to al fresco paella in Barcelona
Looking for places to visit in Spain? Check out our top Spanish food trips and discover where to eat and drink across the country, from natural wines in Barcelona to ibérico ham and hand-cut chips in Tarifa, and juicy skewered prawns in San Sebastian. For more travel inspiration, check out our best Portuguese food trips, best French food trips or best Morocco food trips. Learn about Spanish coffee culture with our expert barista Celeste Wong's guide, including traditional rituals, how to order it and the perfect recipe for at-home brewing. Best Spanish food trips San Sebastián For pintxos and Michelin stars A picturesque port and resort on the Bay of Biscay, San Sebastián has notched up 16 Michelin stars. There are seven three-star restaurants across Spain and three of them are here: Akelarre, Martin Berasategui and Arzak, the bastion of chef Juan Mari Arzak. It has the second highest number of Michelin stars per square metre after Kyoto in Japan, and more than Paris. It's not all fine dining though. Pintxos is a signature of San Sebastián, born because “it’s not our custom to entertain at home. We meet friends for a drink and snack before dinner”. It’s one of the reasons that, originally, there were no sweet pintxos – these were pre-dinner snacks, not the main meal. There are over 100 pintxos spots to choose from in San Sebastian, mainly in the Old Town, and so a tailored tour is a good way to narrow it down. A locals top tip: ignore the piles of pretty pintxos on each bar’s counter and order dishes chalked on the blackboard. These are cooked fresh to order and each bar has its own specialities. At Goiz Argi that means the brocheta de gamba, a juicy prawn served on a skewer soaked in a sweet and sour garlic, pepper and onion marinade. The mari juli baguette, with salty slivers of smoked salmon, sardine and oily green pepper is equally moreish, with a glass of txakoli, the local sparkling white wine. Find out where else to eat and drink in San Sebastian. Where to stay: The glamorous belle époque Hotel Maria Cristina is a fitting base for the gourmet capital of Spain. The hotel, which nudges up to the Parte Vieja and overlooks the River Urumea, was exquisitely revamped in 2012, the year that marked its centenary. Its food credentials include its own concierge-designed DIY pintxos trail, a gourmet shop where you can stock up on gastronomic souvenirs from local wines to smoked olive oil and Basque cookbooks, while in the basement there’s the sleek, state-of-the-art cookery school. Doubles from £472, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or marriott.com. Málaga For churros and seafood Málaga offers a little bit of everything for hungry visitors: a charming old town, long coastal promenade for afternoon strolls and streets buzzing with tapas bars. Start your mornings with churros. Go to La Malagueña for the richest chocolate and churros with a satisfyingly chewy texture. Atarazanas Market is a great way to discover local produce, with stalls offering the freshest seafood – gambas rojas and razor clams are a must-try. Perch at the bar to absorb the hustle and bustle. Another bar to visit is Antigua Casa de Guardia, the oldest wine bar in the city, having opened in 1840. It's packed all summer long. Stand at the bar tasting sweet Màlaga wines from the barrel for just a couple of euros. For more seafood, grilled sardines on the beach are a Málaga staple. "It’s a tradition that goes back more than a century, originally created by fishermen cooking their catch on the shore," insider Milli Taylor says. "Today you’ll find the little boats-turned-firepits lined up along the coastline. You can smell them before you see them – olive wood smoke, charred skin and sea salt." Milli shared all her picks of where to eat and drink in the city: check out her full guide to the best restaurants in Málaga for all her recommendations. Menorca For an island getaway Ibiza, Mallorca and Formentera might usually draw the kaftan-wearing scenesters, but word is quietly spreading that there is more to be discovered on Menorca than clean turquoise waters, pale gold beaches, secluded white-washed farmhouses and lush greenery (the island is a designated Unesco Biosphere Reserve). Unlike its neighbouring party isles, this small Balearic island has managed to stay relatively unspoiled – in everything from the landscape to the food and culture. As on mainland Spain, tapas is big here (try some at the Mercat des Peix – fish market – in Mahon), but thanks to numerous occupations by the Moors, Brits, Catalans and French, the local cuisine is a melting pot. The most famous dish is caldereta, a Menorcan lobster stew that’s cooked and served in an earthenware pot; the local shellfish, in season from April to August, are sweeter than their Atlantic cousins. Sobrassada (a soft paprika sausage, similar to chorizo) is another must-try. And don’t miss the chance to go gin tasting at the last remaining distillery on the island, Xoriguer. Its Gin Xoriguer is a liquid legacy of the British presence here and is served, locally, with lemonade in a pomada. Where to stay: Go luxe and book into Hotel Torralbenc. Set in 70 hectares of vine-draped countryside in the south west of the island, it recently introduced wine tasting experiences at its winery, on foot or by bike. Doubles start from £549, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Barcelona For the famous food market One of the best Spanish cities for food, Barcelona offers a vibrant restaurant scene and chance to dive into Catalan cuisine. Start your day at Granja M Viader: locals line up at long-standing breakfast spot before the shutters rise. Go for a thick, velvety hot chocolate with churros, or one of its famous ‘bikinis’ – a cheese-and-ham-filled toasted sandwich. After the Sagrada Família, the Boqueria food market is the most popular destination in town. Get there before 11am to beat the crowds, browse the stalls and rub shoulders with local chefs over a plate of eggs and a glass of cava at El Quim de la Boqueria. Continue the food shopping at Casa Gispert and pick up marcona almonds, dried figs, saffron and smoky pimentón to take home. To get stuck into tapas, head to El Xampanyet – particularly popular among locals, who come to drink the bar’s own-brand cava before a night on the town. Tapas are simple but on-point – order as the locals do with ‘pimientos con carne’ to receive a plate of blistered padrón peppers and soft, pink pluma ibérico pork. At night, convivial Can Cisa Bar Brutal is the place to work your way through local natural wines paired with more superlative tapas, or slip into tiny Bar Zim for wines by the glass with farmhouse cheeses and organic charcuterie (Carrer de la Dagueria, 20). Read our full guide to Barcelona. Where to stay: Check into hip Casa Bonay, a renovated mansion where traditional hydraulic floor tiles are mixed with Gaudí’s iconic paving stones, adding a hint of edginess to its ground floor lounges, coffee bars and restaurant. Stylish, pared-back bedrooms redefine luxury with hand-woven blankets from Teixidors, maxi-bars stocked with premium gin, vodka and single malt, and room service in the shape of a tiffin tin to be eaten in bed. There's plenty to attract foodies: house restaurant Bodega Bonay serving Mediterranean sharing plates, the hotel bar Libertine for grown up cocktails and the tropical-themed Chiringuito on the buzzy roof terrace for tapas as you watch the sunset. Doubles from £197, check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Tarifa For unspoilt coastline Perched on Spain’s southernmost tip, windswept Tarifa attracts a youthful kite- and windsurfing crowd. Head to Los Lances beach to kick back on the dunes with a goblet of Gin Mare and tonic at Arte Vida. Tarifa’s old town comes alive at night, when visitors descend on the cobbled streets to eat secreto ibérico and hand-cut chips at La Vaca Loca (Calle Cervantes 6) and falafel from tiny vegetarian joint Chilimosa. Start the following day with a fruit salad, crêpe or smoothie in Café Azul’s courtyard, then lounge outside hip Café 10 with a café con leche. Where to stay: Check into hip Hotel Misiana in the centre of the old town. Winning points for location, there are sea views to be had and all the local highlights are a quick walk away. The 15 light and airy rooms are simply decorated and there's a continental breakfast in the morning and hotel-restaurant tapas bar for the evenings. Check rates and availability at expedia.co.uk. Ibiza For a gourmet side to the party isle The famed White Isle may be most known for it's beach clubs, international DJs and nightclubs, but there is a quieter side to discover too. On Playa D’es Torrent, enjoy old world elegance at Es Torrent as you dine with your feet in the sand, under gnarled ocean pines, overlooking a beautiful bay on the west coast of the island. Call ahead to order fresh-from-the-boat fish. Start with the grilled clams and finish with the indulgent pineapple crema catalana. On Playa Es Cavallet, El Chiringuito delivers beachside glamour at its best: great people watching plus fabulous food. The spaghetti frutti di mare for two makes an extravagant but delicious lunch. Start with the artichoke and gambas salad. For watching the famous Ibiza sunset, head to La Torre for fabulous views over the water. Sip cocktails then order its signature steak with chimichurri and wrinkled potatoes. Where to stay: Luxury meets nature at Atzaró Agroturismo, a hotel with exquisite indoor-outdoor design, a spa set within orange groves and a hard-working farm. White-washed buildings, manicured gardens and glistening swimming pools surrounded by huge, pristine day beds all create a gorgeous first impression. Discrete, secret VIP deluxe suites are where celebrities can holiday with complete privacy. So far, so luxe. But a stroll through the orange groves to the hotel’s vast vegetable plot reveals how sustainable and farm-to-fork this family-owned estate is. Solar panels and an on-site well supply power and water to the gardens, pools, spa and rooms. Herbs and botanicals are used in rejuvenating spa treatments. Figs, tomatoes, cucumbers and pomegranates are picked that day, and served just minutes and metres aways in the hotel’s sunny, vine-covered veranda. The garden also supplies its nearby, laid-back sister restaurant, Aubergine by Atzaró, where clever combinations like roasted aubergine carpaccio, cherry tomatoes, feta, dates, pistachio and rocket pesto create texture and zing. At Atzaró beach club, tuna ceviche with mango, chilli, coriander and tiger’s milk is light and flavour-packed. Design at Atzaró Agroturismo references Ibiza’s natural beauty with a profusion of plants, natural wicker and wood, bright whites, with splashes of colour provided through bougainvillea or swimming pool azure. Doubles from €245, check availability at booking.com. Madrid For a capital city break Find salt cod croquetas, elaborate squid sarnies, Iberian eggy bread and orange cappuccinos (plus cured ham and sherry, of course) in Spain’s lively capital. Not sure where to begin? In the heart of one of the capital’s most vibrant neighbourhoods, Mercado de San Ildefonso is a custom-designed street food space is spread over three floors. Set on the site of a 19th century food market, there’s a fuss-free, industrial feel to proceedings and a sociable vibe that comes from having plenty of places to perch while you eat, plus the addition of several bars serving interesting Spanish wines by the glass. To try local specialities, visit Casa Labra (going strong since 1860). It's packed with locals who throng the restaurant's elegantly austere, high-ceilinged interior for the house speciality – salt cod. Served by efficient, white-jacketed staff, it’s best eaten deep-fried or cooked in plump, creamy croquetas, paired with a little glass of vermouth. Those with a sweet tooth should drop into La Casa de las Torrijas. Colourful tiling, plates of huevos rotos (‘broken eggs’) with crispy potatoes and slivers of jamón, and chilled cañas of local beer are all on offer. But the clue to the chief attraction lies in the name. Torrijas is an Iberian take on French toast, and this restaurant’s version – thick slices of bread soaked in milk, egg and sugar (and sometimes sweet wine), then deep-fried until deliciously wobbly, with a creamy centre – is irresistible. Where to stay: Usefully positioned opposite Puerta de Atocha railway station, Only YOU Hotel Atocha impresses with its buzzy industrial-chic lobby (complete with barber, patisserie and restaurant) and complimentary glass of fizz on arrival. Spacious rooms have a sleek mid-century feel, and the hotel’s rooftop Sép7ima bar (with panoramic views of the city) puts on a lavish buffet every morning that includes pastries and churros, charcuterie and cheeses, fresh juice, fruit and cooked breakfasts. Doubles from £122, check availability at booking.com. Seville For the home of tapas The spiritual home of flamenco, Seville is also the birthplace of tapas. One of the best ways to experience Seville’s fabulous gourmet scene is to engage in your own little ‘tapeo’ – a relaxed wander around some of its many bars. You can also ask for a media ración or ración, which are larger than a tapa. For authentic tapas with charm that is hard to beat, Casa Morales was founded in 1850 and now in its fourth generation. Enjoy some salt cod with salmorejo, tortilla de patatas or lomo en manteca, with vermouth, sherry or house wine alongside them. Walk to the Metropol Parasol – nicknamed 'the mushrooms', it dominates the Plaza de la Encarnación with its futuristic-looking wooden structure. Underground is a museum displaying some of the city’s Roman walls and artefacts while above it is one of Seville’s best daily food markets. Make sure you visit the stalls selling jamón de ibérico bellota; it can be vacuum packed to take home (from €60-120 per kg). On the upper levels there is a 30-metre high walkway with panoramic views which you can access through the Antiquarium below. Don't leave Seville without trying some sherry: it's Andalucía’s most iconic wine, yet is often misunderstood. Versatile and fascinating, there’s a sherry – or sherry cocktail – for everyone. Let José and his expert team at the Premier Sherry & Cocktail Bar help you discover yours. Where to stay: Doubles at the Corner House, in the buzzy Alameda de Hércules (one of Seville’s most iconic squares), are very affordable. There's also an in-house restaurant/bar, El Disparate, serving a selection of traditional and innovative dishes; if you're lucky grab one of the tables on its spacious terrace, overlooking the square. Doubles from £86, check availability at thecornerhousesevilla.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk. Cadiz For historical delicacies The historical port city of Cádiz in Andalucia has bargain tapas bars, vibrant food markets and unique local delicacies to discover. Head to the Mercado Central, housed inside a former convent and watch as the theatre of the working day unfolds: swordfish are butchered, chocos (cuttlefish) cleaned of their black ink. If you're self-catering, stock up on vacuum-packed mojama (smoked tuna), ham, chicharrones and fritos, before hitting the stalls selling sherries, plates of local cheese, glasses of albariño at €2.50 and fat churros hot from the fryer. Stick with the locals at tapas bar Taberna Casa Manteca: try chicharrones de Cádiz, a speciality of the region, thin layers of soft, fatty pork dressed withe lemon and salt. Round the corner is Virgen de la Palma, a pedestrianised cobbled street in the heart of this slightly shabby former fishermen’s quarter. It’s lined with tapas bars and restaurants, but during daytime hours it becomes a magnet for weatherbeaten men selling oysters (six for €5) and prawns from carts on corners. For some more luxurious splendour, head to the rococo Cafe Royalty, a restored grand salon, and eat refined courses of Andalucian cooking, including a punchy gazpacho garnished with prawn, alongside a glass of albariño. It opened in 1912, and intellectuals, artists and politicians came here to chew the fat before it closed at the dawn of the civil war. Where to stay: Situated right on the coast, the Parador Hotel Atlántico affords astonishing views out across the ocean at almost every turn. It's central location makes it easy to walk anywhere, discovering new parts of the city down pretty cobbled streets. The stunning hotel pool equally makes the most of those sea views, plus you're just five minutes from the beach. Doubles from £211, check availability at booking.com or britishairways.com. Palma For local fusion cuisine Visit the capital city of Mallorca to get an insight into this unique island. Spend time browsing the city’s main market, Mercat de l’Olivar – check out the cheesemonger S’Aglà for the best Mallorcan and Menorcan cheeses. Elsewhere in the city a handful of gastronomic markets have also sprung up, including Mercado de San Juan and Mercat 1930, in an art deco building overlooking the marina, where you can also join cookery workshops. The international tourism that has generated a renewed appreciation for these types of markets has also fuelled a local spike in Mediterranean fusion cuisine. This is especially evident at Fera, where Austrian chef Simon Petutschnig combines Asian and Mediterranean influences in dishes as eye-catching as the space’s contemporary art. He dubs it borderless Mediterranean cuisine, and it’s anything but hearty, rustic mountain fare. This is the face of modern Mallorca. Where to stay: check into Boutique Hotel Sant Jaume in the heart of the historic old town. On hot days during a summer visit, the indoor pool, flower-covered roof terrace and outdoor plunge pool will have maximum appeal. Doubles from £451, check availability at booking.com, thomascook.com or expedia.co.uk. Bilbao For art and architecture Futuristic architecture, renowned art galleries, elegant cobbled streets and a thriving food scene make this Basque city a great Spanish weekend destination. Join locals at the bar for pintxos and txakoli wine, browse for seafood and croquetas at one of Europe’s largest food markets, and eat Basque-style French toast. A museum restaurant might not be your first stop in a new city, but the Bistró Guggenheim isn’t your typical gallery café. A favourite with locals and visitors alike, it focuses on Basque cuisine with a modern edge. Contemporary art decorates the walls and you can eat while enjoying soothing river views. Follow up with a coffee stop at elegant Café Iruña, or swing by Basquery – a brewery and bakery serving fresh crusty breads and flaky pastries. For traditional deli produce, head to Casa Rufo, a cute restaurant squeezed into a 1950s Italian deli. In the shop at the front they sell everything from cheeses and tinned seafood to bottles of wine; in the back, you can dine on regional delicacies such as anchovies from Cantabria, grilled asparagus from Navarra and peppers from Guernica. More shopping can be had at La Ribera market, which dates back to the 14th century and is one of the largest undercover markets in Europe, home to more than 100,000 square metres of food stalls. See our full foodie guide to the best restaurants in Bilbao. Where to stay: Iturrienea Ostatua is a simple yet charming bed and breakfast located right in the centre of the Old Town, housed in a property built in 1906 for a countess. Originally designed to look like a typical Basque country house, inside the largely modern décor is modest (simple white bedlinen, colourful quilted headboards, practical en-suite shower rooms) but homely. The nine bedrooms nod to the building’s history, with stone floors and wooden-beamed ceilings, and some have small private balconies. Breakfast is served in a country-style kitchen and stretches to local cheeses, charcuterie, sticky pastries and toast. Doubles from £85, check availability at booking.com. Trujillo For the finest Iberico ham The medieval town of Trujillo's kitchens have long been rich thanks to ibérico ham, smoky pimentón de la Vera and creamy sheep's milk cheeses. Just a few Spanish regions boast the holm oak trees (encinas) and open pastures necessary for the feeding and rearing of pure acorn-fed ibérico pata negra ham, including Trujillo. Everywhere, from restaurants to tiny cafés, offer plates of the stuff, freshly carved to order. All the steep, narrow roads in the town seem to lead to Plaza Mayor, the main square, with its ravishing conquistadors’ mansions. Restaurants are happily rustic, dependent on a wood grill and fryer for many of their treats. Just off the main square, is Corral del Rey where you can have jamón and also try ibérico pork secreto (the shoulder cut that, with its liberal marbling of fat, has sometimes been called pork wagyu) thickly dusted with another of Extremadura’s hero products – sweet, smoky pimentón de la Vera, and grilled over encino, the very wood that fed it – a wonderfully symmetrical cooking method. Sit on teh main square and people watch at Cerveceria for beers and the locals’ favourite dish, migas – paprika-laced breadcrumbs fried in pork fat, studded with chorizo and topped with a frilly fried egg. The Alpujarras For a rural escape The rugged foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, south-east of Granada, the Alpujarras exert a semi-legendary pull on many Andalucians, and indeed many other Spanish people. It’s a romantic, whimsical place, known to be remote, rural and – that most Spanish of things – quixotic. The region is blessed with extremely fertile soils that yield all kinds of ingredients, from almonds to grapes via figs, oranges and, of course, olives. The Moors, whose rule over the Alpujarras lasted for 800 years, introduced almonds, cumin, pomegranates and aubergines to the region, all of which thrived thanks to the many long days of sunshine. The ports, an hour or so away, are part of a thriving fishing industry, and the forests run thick with game and wild herbs – all high-quality raw ingredients that local kitchens make the most of. A largely unsung hybrid of North African and Spanish influences, la cocina Alpujarreña is as rudimentary as it is delicious. It is not fancy, it is seasonal and robust. What distinguishes it most of all is its relatively straightforward preparation – traditionally much of it would have been done outside in the fields, using portable ingredients and improvised fire-pits (when prepared inside, people used elementary hearths in the corner of a kitchen). Today, this approach hasn’t much changed. In Berber-like villages, small but resilient communities tend almond and olive terraces, and cultivate immaculate and ancient vegetable patches, while tiny local bars and restaurants serve recipes that have been handed down through generations of farmers. More travel guides Best European mountain escapes Best unique UK holiday cottages Best glamping for foodies Best Irish holidays Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best UK summer travel ideas
European hidden gems: must-visit hotels off the beaten track
From a vineyard to undiscovered beaches in Portugal and waterside Scandinavian boltholes, these are the best hidden gem hotels in Europe
Looking for a gourmet getaway that is off the beaten track? We're sharing some of our favourite hotels and havens in places you might not have visited yet across Europe. Head to the wildlife-rich wetlands outside Amsterdam to stay at a 17th-century inn, discover a tiny Tuscan island, stay at a luxurious Sicilian farmhouse or experience French countryside chic in a hidden cabin. Read on to discover all our best European hidden gems. For more travel inspiration, check out our picks of the best Italian hotels, best Spanish hotels and the best European city breaks for foodies. For UK travel inspiration, check out our picks of the best country house hotels in the UK and the best hotel baths worth travelling for. Wiesergut, Saalbach-Hinterglemm, Austria Check rates and availability at wiesergut.com or booking.com Set at 1,000 metres above sea level, Wiesergut is a family-run boutique hideaway, surrounded by snow-dusted peaks and tucked into the quiet valley of Hinterglemm. The hotel sits directly at the foot of the Zwölferkogel lift station, offering effortless access to the slopes above, yet the village remains relatively quiet and peaceful. Style leans towards minimalist Alpine chic – warm timber, sweeping floor-to-ceiling windows, private gardens, in-room fireplaces and steaming outdoor hot tubs – yet the atmosphere remains warm and easy-going. Families, couples and solo travellers are all made to feel at home. The heated outdoor pool with hot tub jets and mountain views is the focal point of the hotel, with outdoor fire pits lit in the evenings for a magical end to the day. Wiesergut began as an Alpine hut offering home-produced snacks and refuge to travellers, and farm-to-fork eating still sits at the heart of life here. The menu includes herbs and vegetables from the hotel’s garden, matured cheeses from neighbouring farms, and breads baked in-house. Every evening you’ll find a changing tasting menu centred around seasonal ingredients and comforting Austrian classics such as beef goulash with pickles, soured cream and chives, or veal schnitzel with lingonberries. There are 24 rooms including the Manor, Garden and Hideaway suites, plus a separate mountain villa including a loft that sleeps up to six. Garden suites offer bright, spacious rooms with high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a private sun terrace with hot tub. The open living area with wood-burning stove and locally crafted furnishings is the perfect place to watch the sunset behind the mountains. The bathroom sits on a separate level with modern wood-and-marble finishes, plus there’s a freestanding bath in the bedroom for ultimate opulence. Breakfasts are an event in themselves. Guests can choose from an abundance of cheeses, freshly baked breads, fruits and freshly squeezed juices served from an à la carte trolley, or enjoy freshly laid eggs cooked to order. Check rates and availability at wiesergut.com or booking.com De Durgerdam, Netherlands Doubles from £312, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com A 15-minute drive or boat ride from Amsterdam city centre, De Durgerdam is a collection of colourful clapboard houses strung along a dike in the rural wildlife-rich wetlands. At its centre a 17th-century inn has been meticulously restored into a stylish restaurant with rooms. Perch on a parasol-shaded bench out front for coffee and madeleines, while folk cycle past on a country escape, before sauntering down the jetty to swim off the pontoon. The destination restaurant, De Mark, is a collaboration between some of Amsterdam’s most applauded chefs. Dine waterside among the reeds or head inside for cosy, candlelit dinners with nods to the sea at every turn. The cocktail list twists classics with the likes of spiced honey sours while the nautical take on a caesar salad tosses North Sea crab with sea herbs and shavings of Dutch parmesan. A hot skillet of grilled tarragonbrined chicken is best paired with skin-on crispy chips to mop up the salted lemon jus, before a coupe of strawberries macerated in Dutch herbal liquor. Post-meal, retire to the reading room – a terracotta cocoon complete with antique honesty bar, alluring window seat and wood stove to keep things cosy in the colder months. The 14 rooms are sumptuously decorated in warm, earthy tones with velvet throws, frilly wall lamps and armchairs. There’s a commitment to sourcing everything from the Netherlands, from Zenology products to use in the walk-in showers to Dutch herbal teas, stroopwafels and fisherman’s jenever for sipping in the garden while watching the sun set over the wetlands. The three suites, built into the main building’s characterful eaves, even come with blue Kassl raincoats for walks to the neighbouring farm’s milk tap. Doubles from £312, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Le Barn, Bonnelles, France Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com If you’re looking for a taste of serenity without the burden of long travel, Le Barn, set in France’s Bonnelles countryside, should be high on your wishlist. Just 40 minutes from Paris Orly airport, the 500-acre estate offers an outdoors experience with comfort and luxury. The grounds are shared with Haras de la Cense, a prestigious horse riding training centre, and there are horses dotted around the vast space, as well as the option to go riding or try the Whisperer’s Experience. Guests are shown the basics of horse training and invited to try what they’ve learned with one of the many animals on site. This hotel is all about switching off and enjoying nature. Digital detoxing is easy when there are warm Nordic baths, a steam room, sauna, electric bikes, forest walks and weekly activities all included in the price. Wind down for the evening with a drink by the fire in the colder months, or under a canopy of wisteria in the garden in summer. Food is seasonally led, using as much as possible from the kitchen garden and locally sourced produce. The menu changes daily, according to what’s available, but dishes can include stuffed rotisserie chicken or roasted leg of lamb, with sides of roasted carrots, leeks and potatoes. Desserts are a treat not to be missed, including the likes of tarte aux figues and iles flottantes. Breakfast is a satisfyingly French affair: crusty bread, salty butter and homemade jams alongside eggs, bacon and pancakes. Fruit from the grounds is piled high in bowls, including huge grapes and Mirabelle plums. The 73 rooms are separate from the main farmhouse building, mostly spread across two converted barns, and provide a cosy home for your stay, with balconies that look over the horses grazing in the fields or the lake (which you can swim in). There is a big emphasis on freedom at Le Barn, meaning guests can choose how to tailor their stay and, with most activities included in the room price, it works out very reasonably. Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com La Guardia, Tuscany Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Giglio, the second largest island in the Tuscan archipelago, is lush with clifftop vineyards, fig trees and pines. The serene and stylish seaside retreat, La Guardia, is perched atop a granite cave along from the pastel-hued harbour. Brushed concrete and original stone columns are softened with driftwood decorations and wispy wicker lanterns that gently flutter in the Mediterranean breeze. Chic neutral tones continue through to the rooms, all kitted out with luxury Sicilian Ortigia toiletries and many boasting balconies and sea views. Book the junior suite to embrace the elements with a bathroom built into the granite and a beachside terrace for watching the waves lap against the rocks. Mediterranean flavours and island cuisine are served in the on-site restaurant – sip on a Venetian Select spritz at aperitivo hour before a candlelit dinner of Sicilian anchovies, palamita fish with marinated courgettes, and tagliolini with lemon butter and bottarga. The 70-strong wine list showcases rare bottles from Italy’s islands – Giglio, Ischia, Salina and beyond. Breakfast includes the likes of prosciutto, omelettes with Tuscan cheese, homemade fig bread and freshly squeezed juices. There are sunset yoga sessions on the terrace, healing zen shiatsu and Ayurvedic treatments, and e-bikes to explore the island’s rugged trails, cliff-face vineyards and restaurants in medieval castles. Doubles from £241, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Casa Modesta, Portugal Doubles from €220 per night, check availability at booking.com or welcomebeyond.com In the heart of a residential hamlet on the border of the Algarve’s Ria Formosa lagoon, Carlos Fernandes has lovingly converted his grandparents’ house into a striking example of cubist architecture, now home to a nine-room boutique hotel. Many original features remain – Santa Catarina flooring, curved brick ceilings and stone fireplaces – interspersed with tasteful Algarvian knick-knacks for pops of colour. Four rooms are housed in the striking whitewashed extension, complete with terraces that offer swoony sunsets over the wetlands. Blankets and bespoke toiletries are curated from local artisans, while shower tiles are from nearby town Olhão (worth a visit for the impressive fish market). Continental breakfast is served home-style, laid on lace tablecloths in the kitchen. Make your selection from the likes of carrot and saffron bundt cake, fruits hand-plucked from the property, and Portuguese cold cuts – order your preference of eggs and take to the poolside terrace to enjoy beneath the dappled shade of the trees. Come evening, chef Alexandre works with local producers to put on intimate dinners using ingredients picked from the on-site pomegranate trees, fruit orchard and vegetable patch. There’s even a dedicated tea section in the herb garden – lemongrass, lemon verbena and chocolate mint. For those who prefer something stronger, an honesty bar is stocked with Algarvian wines and Portuguese spirits. Enjoy beside the original 1964 oven, still used during winter to cook chorizo bread. Sunbathe among the garden’s cork furniture, read in the shade of the replica regional fisherman’s hut, or cycle along the Fuseta eco trail in the neighbouring wetlands, home to oyster farms, eclectic birds and two families of flamingos. casamodesta.pt Doubles from €220 per night, check availability at booking.com or welcomebeyond.com Le Doyenne, Île-de-France, France Doubles from €265 per night, check availability at ledoyennerestaurant.com The allure of Le Doyenné is its remoteness. A small working farm and restaurant with a handful of charming bedrooms just 40 minutes south of Paris, this magical countryside escape is best enjoyed as a bolt-on to a Parisian weekend away. The expansive dining room is very much at the heart of the estate, surrounded by gardens which supply the kitchen. The 11 bedrooms are a considered mixture of traditional French farmhouse details (think terracotta tiles and antique furniture) and modern luxury finishes (plush beds and roll-top baths). Room 108 is the biggest – with two floors it easily sleeps a family of four. High ceilings and huge windows create an elegant penthouse feel with verdant green views. It’s the perfect place to sit for an evening aperitif. Despite the prestige of the restaurant, the atmosphere is incredibly laid back. A daily set menu showcases the best local produce, and dishes are refined but not fussy – emphasis is put on flavour. The crudités du jardin is a highlight, each raw vegetable or flower accented with a clever sauce or seasoning. The rotating main course may be local duck cooked over coal or chicken with new-season asparagus and girolles. Breakfast is a tempting array of viennoiserie, yogurt, granola and cold meats. The hot menu might feature Turkish eggs or anchovy tartines with salad. Anything else? Peek in the Le Doyenné shop, filled with homemade breads, books and pottery. Doubles from €265 per night, check availability at ledoyennerestaurant.com San Canzian, Croatia Doubles from £303, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or mrandmrssmith.com Tucked away in northern Istria’s foliage-rich hills is this medieval hamlet turned intimate boutique hotel, San Canzian. The 28 rooms are decorated in soft, muted tones pepped up with 15th-century vintage furniture and vibrant beeswax canvases. Elegant on-site restaurant Luciano is strategically placed so guests can enjoy an aperitif from the 600-strong wine cellar as the sky turns pink over the olive trees, Adriatic Sea and Dolomites in the distance. Executive chef Pavo Klaric works homegrown and local ingredients into contemporary spins on traditional Istrian dishes – polenta-crusted cod on pine nut cream, rabbit slow cooked in red wine, and agnolotti pasta filled with young Istrian curd. After a breakfast of cured ham, crumbly cheese and fruits plucked from the abundant estate, take laps of the pool or pad down to the serene spa complete with Finnish sauna and candlelit hot tub. Doubles from £303, check availability at booking.com, expedia.co.uk or mrandmrssmith.com Nordelaia, Piedmont Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Nordelaia is all about equilibrium: between tradition and modernity; simplicity and indulgence; the boundlessness of nature and the cosy, uplifting comfort of home. It lies within a hilly swathe of rural Piedmont – a region which itself represents a kind of geographical middle ground, suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800-year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are at once contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, while freestanding baths in the bedroom areas add a dose of opulence. On the first floor, the four rooms are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes by which Nordelaia, from its woody hillside perch, is engulfed: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn, and pearly whites in the winter. Two outdoor pools – one heated, one not, but both with views for miles – entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its warm stone floors, barrel-vaulted brick ceiling and stone arches, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Beyond the walls, Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here chef Charles Pearce pays stunning homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and to the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. The two coalesce inventively in his take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta that Charles instead pairs with barbecue-kissed prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a lip-smacking tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms, served with a deeply savoury anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Rooms from £261 per night including breakfast. Check availability at booking.nordelaia.com, booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com Brosundet, Ålesund, Norway Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The motto for this waterside boutique hotel is “curated luxury, the Norwegian way”. Set amid Norway’s striking fjords, Brosundet is housed in a set of converted warehouses perched on a cobblestone walkway beside Ålesund’s main waterway. Design geeks will love the unique features and original round windows of the loft suites as well as the one-room suite in the working lighthouse and the dramatic lobby fireplace that spans four floors. Each of the 131 rooms is unique but all are simply styled in soft, muted tones with contemporary bathrooms kitted out with Norwegian argan oil skincare brand Sprekenhus. Ground-floor brasserie Apotekergata No 5 focusses on flavours from the Sunnmøre region and spills out onto a renovated barge outside for alfresco dining on the water as sailboats slide past. Arkivet Bar gets its name from a local fish oil business and these days serves old-school classic cocktails with contemporary Nordic twists. Start the day with a curated breakfast buffet of Norwegian cheese, smoked fish, homemade pastries and Jacu coffee roasted in the same town. Pick up fresh sandwiches and cardamom knots from the on-site corner shop, and head out on an adventure into the fjords for kayaking, fishing and sea wildlife safaris. Reward your activities with a reservation at the hotel’s sophisticated bistro Sjøbua round the corner. Try local delicacies such as lobster bisque, grilled Sterling halibut with Norwegian cabbage and Røros sirloin aged at the bottom of the sea for 21 days. On Saturdays there are Norwegian tea dances accompanied by live piano. Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno, Catalonia, Spain Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at masdenbruno.com, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com In the vine-laced hills of Catalonia’s Priorat region, Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno is a bold reimagining of the traditional Spanish manor house. Once a 12th-century estate, this Relais & Châteaux property now houses 24 suites that strike a harmonious balance between monastic calm and contemporary elegance. Think arched stone walls, custom-made furniture, cool marble interiors, local ceramics and an infinity pool in the silhouette of a wine bottle. It’s rural Catalonia recast through a minimalist, high-design lens, with deliberate softness. At Vinum, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant in the main building, chef Josep Queralt elevates local ingredients with quiet precision. The Sent Soví tasting menu is inspired by a medieval recipe book from 1324 and one of the earliest records of Catalan gastronomy. Standout dishes include candied leeks with Bellmunt del Priorat cottage cheese and confit egg yolk, and poultry broth enriched with roasted Reus hazelnuts. Poolside Tarraco is a more relaxed space serving the likes of watermelon and tomato gazpacho, citrus-cured sea bass ceviche and creamy rice layered with ibérico pork loin and Piquillo peppers. At Bruno’s Bar bespoke cocktails and robust Priorat reds are served beside sculptural fireplaces and a terrace that spills into the landscape. Book Bruno’s Suite for its vaulted ceilings, panoramic vineyard views, freestanding bath and olive oil based local amenities. The in-room bar (yes, a full bar, no mini here) is stocked with bold regional wines and snacks sourced from nearby artisans. Breakfast is a lavish yet unfussy affair: cooked-to-order eggs, flaky ensaïmadas, cheeses from Montsant farms and house-made compotes. The cellar-level spa is an atmospheric sanctuary offering grape seed treatments, while cycling enthusiasts can borrow the hotel’s electric bikes, making Priorat’s undulating hills a little more forgiving. Visit nearby Clos Figueras for organic wines and lunch in its garden restaurant, and browse Agrobotiga Falset for local oils and vermouth. Rooms from €350 per night, check availability at masdenbruno.com, mrandmrssmith.com or booking.com Susafa, Sicily Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk It’s a family affair at Susafa, a sprawling estate that has been owned by members of the Saeli-Rizzuto family for five generations - brothers Manfredi and Tommaso are now at the helm. The fortified, 19th-century farmhouse at its heart sits at the foot the Madonie mountains, near Polizzi Generosa, and is the focal point for overnight guests. Around the farmhouse are 18 simple but chic guest rooms. Between terracotta floors and exposed beams are restful ricotta-coloured walls and the odd pop of olive green or tomato red from a headboard or throw. A restaurant is housed in the old granary and flavours here take their inspiration from the traditional Sicilian table. Vegetables, herbs, fruit and organic olive oil all come straight from the farm and the menu is elegantly rustic (think tomato salads, caponata and creamy risottos). Join a cookery lesson if you can drag yourself away from the pool. Doubles from £273, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Lådfabriken b&b, Orust, Sweden Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk An hour north from Gothenburg lies West Sweden’s Bohuslän coast, a series of islands and peninsulas home to fishing villages strung between rugged rocks. On the very western peninsula of Orust island sunshine bounces around quirky, colourful fish crate factory turned b&b, Lådfabriken. New for summer 2024 is the EKO Tiny House nestled in the cherry, almond and walnut trees of the waterside garden. Split over two levels, it’s a serene, secluded spot to gaze across the Skagerrak Sea at sunset. Owners Johan and Marcel serve family-style dinners such as cod fillets in buttery leek sauce and ‘East meets West’ coconut and lemongrass fish soup using catch of the day via Larsson’s fish shop in nearby Mollösund. When in season there is lobster soup on the menu and evenings dedicated to oyster shucking. Breakfast is a similarly homely affair, seeing the table laden with priest cheese, Swedish emmental, Leksands crackers and an array of homemade preserves – rosehip marmalade, cowberry, lingonberry and more. During the day, take a kayak out on the crystal-clear water, go wild swimming in the archipelago, kick back with a book on a deck chair in the rocky garden, or clamber over rocks following blue dots to the picture postcard Swedish hamlet of Edshultshall. Here, among red and white clapboard houses, families gather around barbecues on little jetties outside their boathouses. Guests all receive a pick-up stick on check in and are encouraged to join the owners in their #5minutesbeachcleanup initiative to sustain local ecosystems. Doubles from £133, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Les Sources de Caudalie, France Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Twenty minutes’ drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the epitome of French country chic. There’s a stone manor house at its heart, a small lake, and a hard-working kitchen garden, plus a hamlet-like extension of suites. Great food and wine are the focus at this gastronomic getaway, but even the finest dining (the hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, holds two Michelin stars) is done without fuss. The newer, cabin-like suites (designed to reflect the oyster fishermen’s huts of Cap Ferret, in the nearby Arcachon Basin), with their whitewashed timber walls, retro-influenced furniture and spa-like bathrooms, are the ones to splash out on; in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by frogs as you return to your room along flower- and water-lined pathways. In the mornings, step onto your private terrace and watch carthorses ploughing the vines just outside. The three restaurants at Les Sources have most tastes covered. Celebrate a special occasion with dinner in La Grand’Vigne and enjoy a meal where even the table salts stick in the memory (one of ours, blended with Bordeaux pimento, was the colour of roast peppers). The cheeseboard comes with fresh cottage cheese, from a local dairy, served with a dot of cherry jam. Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Castilla Termal Brihuega, Spain From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com Surrounded by lavender fields, this little town in the region of La Alcarria is home to a new boutique hotel in a restored cloth factory. Perfect for food lovers seeking to make new discoveries, it showcases regional specialities, while its thermal waters provide an opportunity to fully relax and rejuvenate. Breakfast is a delight: all the Spanish goodies like jamón ibérico, pan con tomate and tortilla, plus local ingredients like manchego, honeycomb and tarta de uvas – a grape sponge cake which teams well with the more contemporary touch in the cold drip coffee offered. At dinner, rustic plates like kid goat and the region’s famous rum baba style cake are served in the large glass-domed restaurant. Nearby food experiences include truffle hunting at family-owned TrufaZero, which supplies many restaurants in the region. Guests can dig for the black gold sniffed out by their dog, Nino. Brihuega’s thermal spa promotes a sense of wellness and relaxation with an outdoor pool, massage jets and a bespoke lavender treatment – a two-hour ritual which includes a lavender scrub, wrap and massage. Exposed brick, wooden beams and floors, a neutral colour palette and dried floral displays add to the calming effect. castillatermal.com From £226 per room, check availability at booking.com Sublime Comporta, Portugal Doubles from £561, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com For a weekend of local wines, fresh seafood and earthy rice dishes head an hour south of Lisbon to the wild sand-fringed coastline, pine forests and stylish beach retreats of Comporta. The area has long been protected by its status as a nature reserve (at its northern end is the Sado estuary, home to bottlenose dolphins, flamingos and storks). The 17-acre estate of Sublime Comporta, its rooms, suites and cabana villas peppered among umbrella pines, cork trees, frangipane flowers and olives, is a blueprint for low-impact hotel design – stylish and subtle rather than dominating the surrounding landscape. Inside all is minimal and white, with the odd pop of polished concrete or warm wood. Though not directly on the beach (the closest is a five-minute drive away), the vibe is that of a grown-up, romantic beach retreat. There’s also a dedicated spa, using organic Amala products for its range of soothing treatments, and a yoga pavilion. Doubles from £561, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Tilia Estate, Slovenia Huts from £184, check availability at booking.com Slovenia is a compact, under-the-radar destination whose diversity of landscapes has stacks to offer visitors who love the outdoor life. Tilia Estate runs a range of cellar tours and tastings of its wonderful wines, some conducted in English – contact them for details. The nearby Theodosius Forest Village – with its seven luxurious wood cabins, some with hot tubs or saunas, set in idyllic woodlands next to its own vineyards – makes a perfect base to explore this beautiful region, where options include hiking, cycling, kayaking, climbing and paragliding. Huts from £184, check availability at booking.com Extend your Slovenia trip with a few days in the capital exploring Ljubljana's best restaurants and in the lush, green Julian Alps. Levendis Estate, Ithaca Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Aussie-Greek couple Marilyn and Spero Raftopulos – plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko – run this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool on Spero’s family homestead. It overlooks a bay in the north of the island and has been going for more than 30 years. Bathrooms come generously stocked with Levendis’ own natural skincare products, while cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner. Plus peach juice, bread, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast. Click here for more places to eat and drink in Ithaca. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Harö Natur, Sweden Check rates and availability at 59north18east.com Take the ferry from Stokcholm to this restaurant and hotel, where your bed for the night is a unique choice between a floating greenhouse, boujie boathouse or glass-fronted treehouse. In the summer months, two Italians take residence on the pizza ovens, or opt for the tasting menu sitting; a succession of contemporary Swedish dishes that might include roe with dill oil and horseradish cream, smoked char with celeriac and cucumber celery jus and woodfire oven lobster with jalapaño cream. Take a dip in the clear waters and warm up in the hot tub and dinky sauna, perched on its own pier, while sunset casts a pink and orange glow over the archipelago. Check rates and availability at 59north18east.com Andrássy Rezidencia Wine & Spa, Tarcal Doubles from £155, check availability at booking.com In Hungary’s historic Tokaj-Hegyalja wine growing region (tours of local vineyards can be arranged), this five-star hotel and spa (treatments are tailored around vinotherapy) has won a following among modern-day wine buffs looking for less mainstream tastings. While its restaurant offers modern interpretations of Hungarian classics, it’s the accompanying wine pairing choices that most guests are more concerned about – the list runs to 80 different Tokaj wines from 25 different growers. More travel guides 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best Scottish hotels Black Friday hotel deals
Best hotels in Paris for a memorable stay in the French capital
From cosy, characterful hotels with exotic gardens to minimalist spaces with historic open-air swimming pools, these are the must-stay foodie hotels in Paris
Looking for the best hotels in Paris? Want to know which city hotels to book? Our guide to Paris’s best boutique hotels… Feeling enamoured in the city of love? Now find out our best honeymoons for foodies. For more hotel inspiration, check out our best European hidden gem hotels or best Spanish hotels. Best places to stay in Paris Hotel Panache, Grands Boulevards From £108, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com, expedia.co.uk or lastminute.com Hotel Panache in a nutshell A super-chic hotel with 40 bedrooms scattered across seven floors. Why foodies stay here Café Panache occupies the hotel’s ground floor. It serves bistro dishes with a modern twist, including beef tartare with potato sticks, pork belly noodle soup and, for dessert, cookies sandwiched together with ice cream. For lunch, feast on a club sandwich stuffed with fried chicken, cabbage and a Japanese omelette. What are the bedrooms like? Choose from seven sizes, the largest of which are top-floor suites. A consistent colour scheme of light grey, dusty pink and pale blue runs throughout, with filament light bulbs, wicker headboards and old-school telephones adding elegance. The classic single comes with an en-suite shower room, double bed and writing desk, while the family room can sleep up to four people, with a small living space and double sinks. Breakfast Eggs come any way you want, with chunks of cheese, wodges of sourdough and fresh figs on the side. If you want something lighter, order muesli topped with maple syrup. Where to eat and drink nearby Parisian institution, Le Bouillon Chartier, is a two-minute walk away. Join the queue early (it doesn’t take bookings) and prepare for exemplary snails, steak frites and rum babas. From £108, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com, expedia.co.uk or lastminute.com Le Grand Mazarin, Le Marais Doubles from £515, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Le Grand Mazarin in a nutshell With twin inspirations of Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel (hence the purple-clad staff) and Alice in Wonderland, Le Grand Mazarin achieves an impressive feat of being full of eclectic colours and patterns, yet still remaining a chic and calm oasis in the heart of the bustling Le Marais district. Why foodies stay here Hotel bar and restaurant Boubalé (meaning ‘little darling’ in Yiddish) combines Eastern European and Mediterranean flavours. Make sure to look up at the colourful ceiling above you: it may look wooden, but every detail and flower was hand-painted. Share a giant chicken schnitzel and incredibly cheesy spinach risotto, then finish with the signature ‘benimousse’ – a large scoop of rich chocolate mousse topped with a generous drizzle of olive oil and scattering of sea salt. What are the bedrooms like? Originally three buildings (a chocolate shop, a bar and a hotel), the hotel renovation took five years with incredible levels of detail throughout – from the mural in the underground swimming pool to 1,300 hand-painted flowers in the courtyard patio (a hidden oasis just waiting for sunny lunches). There are now 61 rooms and suites, an indoor pool, restaurant, bar, courtyard dining and gym. There is an extraordinary level of detail to discover in every corner of the hotel, including nearly 500 artworks scattered throughout. Bedrooms are decorated with carefully sourced vintage objects, custom rugs and Murano light fittings. Rooms are bold and colourful yet always elegant. Think raspberry pink walls, tapestry canopies over beds and yellow tiles in the bathrooms. Extra touches such as Diptyque toiletries in the waterfall showers and curtains that close from a touch of a button by your bed add a luxurious feel. If you can drag yourself away from the comfy bed or super warm pool, don’t miss the gym with stone vaulted ceilings and chandeliers, surely the prettiest place to work out in the city. Breakfast Served in the colourful surroundings of Boubalé, the central breakfast buffet is laden with croissants, cakes, madeleines and brioche, with butter served in chic mini tins. Hot options, cheese and ham are available too, including an excellent omelette. Don’t miss the warm chocolate chip hazelnut cookies. Where to eat and drink nearby There’s plenty to choose from in the Marais district. A 10-15 minute walk from the hotel, past the Pompidou Centre, is Tekés. Enjoy sharing plates of vegetarian food from fluffy laffa bread and dips to curried gnocchi and unique egg-filled borek pastry. As part of the same group as Boubalé, you’ll find the showstopping benimousse on the menu here, too. Doubles from £515, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Hotel Lutetia, Boulevard Raspail Hotel Lutetia in a nutshell Oozing Parisian style, this is an impossibly handsome Art Nouveau meets Art Deco building on the corner of St Germain’s Boulevard Raspail and Rue de Sèvres. Why foodies stay here The hotel's food and wine credentials owe much to its connection with long-time previous owner champagne house Taittinger. The partnership lives on in its own Cuvée Lutetia, enjoyed in the frescoed Bar Josephine, or with an indulgent brunch of truffled scrambled eggs under the stained glass in salon Le Saint Germain. During Fashion Week Lutetia is home to the great, the good and the famous, its serene Akesha Spa being a major pull. Year round, Brasserie Lutetia provides unequalled people-watching opportunities on its perfectly placed outdoor terrace serving caviar, smoked oysters and lobster with black truffle. What are the rooms like? Luxurious in-room touches – monogrammed pillowcases, lavish fruit plates, chocolate sculptures – speak to its reputation as one of the city’s finest addresses. From €1445. Check rates and availability at hotellutetia.com or booking.com Hotel des Grands Boulevards, Grands Boulevards From £248, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Hotel des Grands Boulevards in a nutshell A gorgeous 18th century grand dame of a building given a glam but sympathetic modern makeover. This 50-bedroom hotel also has an elegant restaurant and a rooftop terrace. Why foodies stay here The third hotel in the Experimental Cocktail Club stable makes sure its food packs a punch. The hotel’s in-house restaurant marries French and Italian country cooking, serving it in a bright airy space, designed around a landscaped courtyard, with a central cocktail bar for pre-dinner tipples. Start with Italian charcuterie and grilled focaccia, or haddock croquettes with romesco sauce, before filling up on plates of pasta (linguine with zucchini, quail with cherries, or monkfish with miso and chards). Desserts are all about fruit: try pistachio biscuits with cherry coulis, or roasted apricot and orange blossom ice cream. Rise to the rooftop for stellar cocktails at The Shed, a small makeshift-style bar hidden among the greenery. Try the Pink Paloma made with tequila, Aperol, grapefruit juice and lime, or order the non-alcoholic East Indian, a sweet concoction of masala chai, lemon juice, maple syrup and ginger beer. What are the bedrooms like? Under the nuanced touch of designer Dorothée Meilichzon there are nods to the hotel’s 18th-century heritage here, including canopy beds (handmade in Brittany) and marble surfaces. But crisp linen, plain-painted walls and a muted three-tone colour scheme add modernity to the mix. Choose between five bedroom sizes, including Petit Boulevard (which sleeps one or two and looks out over the courtyard) and Parisian Eaves, complete with exposed beams and a private terrace. All bedrooms have in-room climate control and a minibar stocked with pre-made cocktails. Breakfast The Parisian come with pastries, fresh juice and a hot drink. Order à la carte for homemade cakes, avocado toast or fresh fruit salads. Teas come from Pascal Hamour. Where to eat and drink nearby For old-school classics - including scallops with cauliflower purée, roast sucking pig with pear, and Grand Marnier soufflé – make your way to Le Pantruche, a 15-minute walk away. From £248, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk The Hoxton, Sentier From £238, check availability at booking.com The Hoxton in a nutshell An elegant 18-century building turned hip hideaway with more than 150 bedrooms and a cosy cocktail bar. Why foodies stay here Rivié offers all-day dining, serving French-inspired dishes with Asian influences. Try cold carrot soup with corn and coconut milk, or share small plates of nori tempura with red cabbage slaw and yuzu tartare. The bavette steak marinated in lemon ginger comes with a peanut sauce and fries or, for something lighter, try a bulgar and broccoli buddha bowl. Sip on natural wines and tuck into cheese plates at casual wine bar Planche, or try Moroccan-inspired drinks and nibbles at the colourful Jacques’ Bar. What are the bedrooms like? Choose from four sizes, starting with Shoebox (the clue’s in the name) then Cosy, Roomy and, the largest of the four, Biggy. Compact Shoebox rooms have parquet flooring, rainfall showers and a selection of books curated by locals, while Roomy promises super-king size beds and roll-top baths. All bedrooms come with a handy neighbourhood guide and light breakfast bag. Breakfast For the full works head to the restaurant and start your day with a banana split served with coconut yogurt, red fruits, peanut butter and bee pollen, or quinoa granola topped with Greek yogurt, orange and blueberries. Avocado fans will love the upgraded toast, which comes topped with smashed avocado, peas, edamame beans, poached eggs and coriander. Where to eat and drink nearby La Guinguette d’Angèle is the perfect spot for a casual lunch. Veggie and gluten-free standouts include lentils on pesto rice with smoked tofu, hummus toast with roast vegetables, and vegan hazelnut cake (you can eat-in or take-away). From £238, check availability at booking.com Hotel Henriette, Croulebarbe From £137, check availability at booking.com Hotel Henriette in a nutshell A family-friendly boutique hotel on the Rive Gauche with 32 individually designed bedrooms and a private courtyard. Why foodies stay here Although there’s no restaurant at the hotel, the central courtyard is a great place to bring back a deli feast while affordable room prices mean more centimes to spend in the city’s restaurants. What are the bedrooms like? All of the bedrooms are decked out with vintage fabrics and flea market finds. Designed by a fashion editor turned hotelier, some boast statement yellow walls and rose gold side tables, while others have tropical wallpaper and pastel linens. Breakfast Breakfast runs to a full continental spread, from cakes and croissants to charcuterie. Where to eat and drink nearby Dip into a nearby Moroccan or contemporary French restaurant, or visit L’Auberge du Roi Gradlon, which specialises in Breton cuisine. The menu at the latter features haddock tart with Roscoff onions, galettes and, for dessert, a Breton speciality called Kouign-amann (swirls of caramelised, buttery parcels) served with salted caramel. From £137, check availability at booking.com L’Hotel, Saint-Germain-des-Pres From £365, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com L'Hotel in a nutshell An opulent and historic five-star hotel, with a charming cocktail bar. What are the bedrooms like? Spread over six floors, the luxurious bedrooms boast lavish furnishings, carefully selected artwork and one-hour private sessions at the hotel’s hammam pool. Mignon bedrooms look out over the Rue de Beaux Arts and come with leopard print wall coverings, chandeliers and ornate wooden headboards. Chic rooms are themed around famous historic characters (including Marco Polo and Mata Hari) and include separate sitting areas plus spacious tiled bathrooms. Oscar Wilde spent his final night at this hotel, and his namesake suite boasts a private leafy terrace. Breakfast Start the day with a continental buffet of pastries, juice and coffee, or made-to-order egg dishes. Detox juices and boozy breakfast mimosas are also available. Where to eat and drink nearby This arty neighbourhood (the famous literary pilgrimage site that is the Café de Flore is just a stone’s throw fro the hotel) is also one of the city’s most well-trodden areas, with the dining scene to match. For the ultimate indulgence head to the blue velvet-lined café run by luxury patisserie Ladurée just around the corner, for lunchtime classics (egg white, spinach and goats cheese omelettes or dainty chicken and mushroom vol au vents) plus exquisite pastries and macarons. From £365, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Molitor, Boulogne-Billancourt From £325, check availability at booking.com Molitor in a nutshell A modern, minimalist hotel with a historic open-air swimming pool. Why foodies stay here The urban brasserie encircles an Art Deco central swimming pool, allowing guests the luxurious pleasure of dipping and dining at the same time. Seasonal, uncomplicated cooking is at its heart, so expect the likes of truffled macaroni with ham and comte, pork belly with apricots and hazelnuts, and raspberry elderflower cheesecake. An elegant bar serves cocktails featuring classic French alcohols, so settle down with a Moli-Taï (grapefruit juice with ginger ale and Rinquinquin) or signature Molitor History X, made from pear vodka, tonic water and Absenteroux vermouth. In the summer months, a rooftop kitchen serves falafels with hummus and tabbouleh, crab salads and cheerful, crowd-pleasing desserts – hot cookies with pecan and vanilla ice cream, for example, or chocolate mousse. What are the bedrooms like? Choose between classic, luxury, executive or suite. Calm classic rooms are decorated in shades of white, grey and beige, with Bose dock stations and views over the pool, while executive rooms come with king-size beds and separate baths. If you want extra luxury, the Grand Suite has a separate lounge area and views over the city. Breakfast A lavish affair that covers all tastes. Go savoury with a “big bun egg” (brioche sandwiches stuffed with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce, plus your choice of bacon, salmon or mushrooms), or choose homemade crêpes decorated with chocolate, honey, caramel or maple syrup. Where to eat and drink nearby For colourful, precision-cooked neighbourhood dining walk book a table at nearby Plantxa, Colombian chef Juan Arbelaez’ Paris bistro. The menu changes each week but typical dishes might include pork with peas and artichoke, cod with girolles and wasabi or a prettily presented red fruit pavlova. From £325, check availability at booking.com Le Pigalle, Pigalle From £257, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Le Pigalle in a nutshell Contemporary design meets homely touches in the cool Pigalle neighbourhood. Why foodies stay here At the hotel’s restaurant, ingredients are sourced from local stores and suppliers to create a simple, seasonal menu. All-day dishes include burrata with sweet basil, smoked salmon toast with burnt lemon, or cheese served with nectarine chutney. Come dinner time, however, sharing plates are the focus: try sweet potato croquettes with spicy yogurt and haricot bean hummus, and green asparagus with citrus dressing. Head to the bar before 9pm for a Roches Rouges aperitif (cassis, Saint Raphaël, white wine and soda), or go for a house-bottled old fashioned cocktail, pepped up with walnut and maple. What are the bedrooms like? All 40 bedrooms mimic the style of Pigalle itself, with themes ranging from historic and decadent to modern, multicultural and musical. Comfortable rather than cluttered, rooms sport second-hand furniture and decorative music and books. Pigalle 17 comes with a separate bathroom, queen-size bed and in-room iPad (complete with personalised music selection), while the Pigalle 35 suite has a turntable, king-size bed and views over Sacré Coeur. Plus there are bunk beds available for families, or guests looking for a dormitory-style experience (neighbouring rooms can be accessed through a shared door). Breakfast Keep things classic with a croissant, or go for a zingy mango, avocado and ginger salad. Avocado toast comes with citrus and cream cheese, or you can order smoked salmon and comte cheese with buttered baguettes. Where to eat and drink nearby Opened by a Frenchman with a soft spot for Sydney, KB Café Shop (the KB stands for ‘kookaburra’) is a cheery, laptop-friendly space where the carrot cake is homemade and the beans are roasted on site. From £257, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Hotel Providence, Strasbourg – Saint-Denis From £219, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com and expedia.co.uk Hotel Providence in a nutshell A 19th-century townhouse converted into a smart 18-bedroom hotel. Why foodies stay here The kitchen has three cooking styles: raw, marinated or cooked over wood-fire. Take a seat in the moody dining room (mahogany wood, leather armchairs and a roaring fire), or on the heated terrace, and start with dinky petits fours – everything from avocado and prawn toasts to tuna rillettes – before moving on to bigger plates. Linguine comes dressed simply with lemon, roasted pine nuts and fresh oregano, while bream ceviche zings with lime and pomegranate. For dessert, keep things classic with tarte tatin or crème brûlée. What are the bedrooms like? Split into five categories (mini, classic, superior, deluxe and suite), the 18 bedrooms are luxurious yet homely, with some sporting their own balconies. Each room comes with its own bespoke cocktail bar, too. Classic rooms are draped in azure-coloured velvet, while the deluxe boasts a separate lounge, upholstered walls and striking mustard-yellow curtains. Breakfast Go low-key with a hot drink, pastry and fresh fruit juice, or help yourself from a buffet of organic yogurts, fresh-from-the-oven madeleines, farmhouse cheeses and fruit salads. Where to eat and drink nearby The Little Red Door is set in the backstreets of Paris’ arty Enfants-Rouge district. Pull up a blue velvet barstool and be seduced by a charismatic, apron-clad team, or sink into a chair on the bar’s more private mezzanine level. From £219, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com and expedia.co.uk Mama Shelter Paris East, Porte de Bagnolet From £126, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Mama Shelter Paris East in a nutshell An affordable hotel, styled by Philippe Starck, that’s one of two sister establishments in Paris. Why foodies stay here The downstairs space is home to a buzzing bar and restaurant serving brunch, lunch and dinner. Sit at long wooden sharing tables and tuck into pizzas topped with fresh cream, onions and bacon, or tomato, burrata and oregano. Bar snacks include plates of charcuterie, vegetable gyozas and focaccia with dips. Or head to the colourful rooftop terrace and share small plates of hummus with lemon confit, sardines in olive oil and stracciatella with cherry tomatoes. What are the rooms like? Take your pick between small, medium, large, XL or XXL. Simple decoration runs throughout -grey walls, white linen, large mirrors and an occasional pop of yellow – while a scattering of more outré touches (masks as bedside lights, the eyes beaming, and pop art murals) are pure Starck). Small bedrooms manage to fit in a double bed, iMac and desk, while large rooms have extra space for lounging. If outdoor space is what you’re after, book XL Mama Terrace, which comes with outdoor space and a living room. Breakfast A brunch buffet includes starters, mains and desserts, so arrive hungry. Start with fresh fruit and cereals before moving on to baked eggs, mini croque monsieurs and smoked salmon. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, tuck into crêpes, almond tarts and Nutella waffles. Where to eat and drink nearby Book ahead for a table at Bistrot Paul Bert. The menu is scribbled on a blackboard and includes indulgent dishes such as scallops with creamed potatoes, veal with mushrooms and a towering Grand Marnier soufflé that easily serves two. From £126, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Hotel Amour, South Pigalle From £139, check availability at amour.hotelamourparis.fr Hotel Amour in a nutshell A characterful 24-bedroom hotel with a surprisingly exotic garden and a stellar brunch offering. Why foodies stay here The brunch is what draws gastro guests. It’s served in a classic bistro, complete with red leather benches and library, and includes croque monsieurs, macaroni gratin, scrambled eggs with bacon and, at weekends, fluffy pancakes. For dinner, try classics such as lentils with bacon and herb vinaigrette, potato dauphinoise, rump steak and chocolate mousse. The covered garden brings a taste of the tropics to Paris, with leafy palm trees shading tables for two. Sit outside in summer and sip martinis, or try one of the house cocktails. Passions Unleashed combines rum, fresh lime juice, passion fruit purée and roast pineapple syrup, while Empire of the Senses is a heady concoction of whisky, toasted sesame syrup, Japanese green tea and bay leaf. What are the rooms like? There are singles, doubles, superiors and duplexes. Single rooms can still sleep two in a queen-size bed, with views over the patio. Doubles come with a bathtub, while the duplex has a mezzanine level (for sleeping) and a separate living area below. Breakfast Go for the full breakfast, where chunky nut-heavy homemade granola comes with yogurt, and baskets of baguettes are served with pots of butter and jam. The freshly squeezed grapefruit juice is a must, and the tea selection includes darjeeling yanki, vanilla rooibos and Japanese hōjicha. Where to eat and drink nearby At Sébastien Gaudard, indulge in caramelised choux buns and rum babas. Or pick up a jar of crème de marrons (chestnut cream) or a packet of candied fruits to take home. From £139, check availability at amour.hotelamourparis.fr More travel guides Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Where to eat and drink in Málaga: an insider shares her favourite restaurants
From breakfast churros to market seafood and sherry straight from the cask, here is Milli Taylor's pick of where to eat and drink in the sunny Andalucían seaside city
Looking for the best restaurants in Málaga? Want to know where to eat and drink in the southern Spanish coastal city? Insider Milli Taylor says, "My family spent much of my childhood between Málaga and London, and eventually settled there permanently when I was 17. Although I stayed in London, I think of Málaga as my soul home and, however many times I visit in a year, the city still gives me the same buzz. This year, I co-hosted our first Spanish retreat, Sobremesa – a few unforgettable days of introducing food lovers to the city and teaching them to cook and bake with its extraordinary local produce from the market. Playing city guide was pure joy, so I’m thrilled to do the same here." For more Spanish travel inspiration, check out our guide to the best Spanish food trips, best Spanish hotels for food lovers or the best restaurants in San Sebastian. A local's best restaurants in Málaga Eat breakfast at Churrería de Malagueña I like to get into the city early for coffee and churros. Everyone will tell you to go to Casa Aranda and, don’t get me wrong, both places do great churros (also called porras or tejeringos) but I prefer the chewy texture at La Malagueña and the chocolate is far superior. Where Casa Aranda is fun and fast paced, it is very touristy and I find La Malagueña a more chilled out local spot, perched up on the bar watching the waiters move around each other like dancers. Sample local wine at Antigua Casa de Guardia It’s the oldest wine bar in Málaga and really feels like not much has changed there since it opened in 1840. I wouldn’t order food other than a couple of banderillas to whet the appetite but standing at the bar tasting sweet Màlaga wines from the barrel for a couple of euros a pop really roots you in a good time and place. In the summer this place is heaving but the service is quick and the glasses are small so it’s worth waiting for your spot. When you’re done they chalk up your bill on the counter and you’ll feel ready to head out and eat. antiguacasadeguardia.com Head to Atarazanas Market for seafood The market is a joy for the senses and to walk around. It’s divided into fresh produce, meat and fish. It’s become a little touristy but if you know where to go it’s still brilliant. You cannot eat fresher fish than here. You’ll need to try gambas rojas and razor clams, or any clams really that take your fancy. Málaga is home to the concha fina, a big juicy clam that is eaten alive and with lemon juice. My favourite place for seafood is standing at the bar in the hustle and bustle at Marisqueria El Yerno. mercadomalaga.es Solo diners must try Mesón Mariano I like watching the food come out the kitchen and the jamón being cut. This place is famous for its artichokes so if they’re in season you must try them. I also love the huevos rotos here. For a fancy yet informal meal I love Mesón Ibérico This place is really popular with locals and so I get there just before doors open to secure a spot. Service is so swift and friendly, and it’s a beautiful bar to sit in. As soon as you sit down you are given a few slices of salchichón de bellota while you look at the menu. My top tip would be to order the bacalao al pil pil. If you order the fabada asturiana they will tell you it comes from a tin but it is exceptional and after just one day in Málaga you’ll be embracing all food from tins. mesoniberico.net After lunch try an ice cream at Casa Mira, an institution There are a couple of spots: go to the one on Calle Larios for all the slamming lids and drama, or the smaller one by the cathedral if you want to sit outside in a quieter spot. The local ice cream is almond and pedro ximénez soaked raisins, and really does taste like Málaga in a mouthful. No trip to Málaga is complete without eating espetos on the beach These sardines are skewered on a cane and slow-roasted over wood fires right in the sand. It’s a tradition that goes back more than a century, originally created by fishermen cooking their catch on the shore. Today you’ll find the little boats turned firepits lined up along the coastline. You can smell them before you see them – olive wood smoke, charred skin and sea salt. My favourite dessert is from a restaurant called La Cosmo It’s the corn flan with corn praline that is so iconic they cannot take it off the menu. If you ask nicely and they’re not busy they’ll let you in just to eat dessert. lacosmo.es/en More travel guides Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Looking for places to visit in France? Check out our top French food trips and take a spin around olive groves Uzes, relax in luxury in Provence or sample patisserie in Paris
Looking for the best food trips to take in France? Check out our guide to the best places across the country to eat and drink, from hearty ski food in the French Alps to undiscovered corners of Provence. For more French inspiration, check out our picks of the best hotels in Paris and foodie guide to Lyon, then hop across the border with our guide to the best Spanish food trips or further afield with our best Morocco food trips. 16 best French food trips Uzes For chocolat-style villages Pungent truffles and gummy bears? Just two of the more unusual ingredients on the menu in Uzès, one of those achingly pretty French towns whose Chocolat-style looks make it seem like a Hollywood film set. Indeed, its plane-tree-pricked Place aux Herbes once starred in the Gérard Depardieu movie Cyrano de Bergerac. Uzès is surrounded by truffle plantations and hosts a truffle festival every January, while confectionary giant Haribo opened Le Musée du Bonbon here in 1996. The company is synonymous with the gummy bears invented by German founder Hans Riegel in 1920. Your ticket comes with a bag of sweets to suck as you wander from room to room learning about the history of sugar and the candy-making process before ‘nosing’ some of the ingredients. Pressing a button releases a puff of vanilla, cacao or liquorice into the air. This less well-known corner of France is just 40 minutes from Avignon, where you can jump off the Eurostar as it hurtles on to Marseilles. Once here the pace is far more leisurely. Uzès has its share of sites to tick off including the cathedral of Saint Théodorit with its ornate Romanesque bell tower, the Fenestrelle, the Duke’s palace and the Medieval Garden in the grounds of a ruined château which has around 450 plants, many medicinal, and is a lovely spot to unwind with a liquorice tisane after clambering up the tower’s 100 steps for a sweeping panorama. Be sure to visit Uzès on a Wednesday or Saturday when you’ll find a food market in full swing. And don't miss a visit to Boulangerie Fougasse d’Uzès where you can buy fougasse filled with anchovies and olives. Where to stay: spend the night at boutique hotel La Maison d'Uzes set in a listed building the heart of the old town. The hotel restaurant, all parquet floors and vibrant velvet chairs, serves modern French dishes and local specialities, and the hotel has a spa, Roman baths and hammam. Doubles from £255, check availability at booking.com Read our full guide to Uzes, here. Provence For luxury relaxation Head to Provence to explore pretty villages, ancient vineyards and historical cities. Hike up Mount Ventoux, head to a wine-tasting at Cheateau Pesquie (and enjoy picnic in the pretty garden) or visit the idyllic village of L'Isle Sur-La-Sorgue on market day for antiques, bountiful fresh produce and lavender souvenirs to take home. The pretty walled city of Avignon is perfect for soaking up some history. Where to stay: Hilltop village Crillon Le Brave is a vision of Provençal style; a clutch of honey-hued, pastel-shuttered houses surrounded by slopes carpeted with olive groves and vineyards. The top of the village is now the effortlessly elegant five-star Hotel Crillon Le Brave. The highlight has to be the 180-degree views of unspoilt rolling countryside, vineyards, olive groves and Mount Ventoux. Made of nine houses linked together by the village streets, the 34 rooms are stylishly decorated in soothing neutral tones with Diptyque products in every bathroom. After a day of exploring, return to the hotel for dinner on the terrace at La Table du Ventoux. Admire the panoramic views whilst dining on seasonal French cuisine – expect local asparagus in spring and strawberries in summer. Spend your time playing boules in the terraced garden, relaxing by the pool the or having a massage in the tiny spa set in atmospheric ancient vaulted stables. Should you be able to tear yourself away from the hotel, borrow e-bikes to explore through fields and tiny villages. Doubles from £408, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Cognac For brandy, vineyards and medieval towns In southwestern France the Cognac region – birthplace of the world-famous grape brandy – is a rural one of rolling hills laced with vineyards and pristine medieval towns. It’s an area ripe for exploration, speckled with distilleries and cognac houses, many of which you can visit, from river boat rides and VR tours at Hennessy to intimate private dinners at Delamain, cocktail mixing at Château Montifaud and, of course, cognac tastings galore – sip neat or copy the locals and mix with tonic water. Many producers also use cognac to make a fortified wine, pineau des charentes, which makes a deliciously fruity aperitif. The town of Cognac is where some of the biggest cognac brands are located and makes a great base for exploration. Its quiet cobbled streets, full of medieval and 18th-century architecture, as well as the quay-lined Charente river, are perfect for walking off cognac tastings. It's also where you’ll find buzzy, industrial-chic Poulpette which has a counter lined with natural wines and a roster of pared-back seasonal plates. Or, further afield, head to Montendre for lunch at La Quincaillerie, an ironmonger turned restaurant with a classic French menu (don’t miss the cheese tray). Where to stay: In the heart of Cognac, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa is a 19th-century cognac house turned five-star retreat, a seamless fusion of period architecture with modern glass structures. Interiors cocoon you in buttery neutrals, and rooms come stocked with French toiletries and madeleines on arrival. Book a junior suite on the upper floor of the original 19th-century part of the hotel, which comes with exposed wooden beams. The Michelin-starred Les Foudres, in the old ageing cellar, serves tasting menus that ripple with seasonal, local produce, while the more casual La Distillerie serves classic Gallic fare as well as a majestic breakfast buffet that includes fresh breads and pastries, eggs cooked to order and pain perdu. From €265 per room, check availability at chaismonnethotel.com and booking.com. Lille For a gourmet city break Close to the Belgian border, Lille is but 1 hour 22 minutes on the Eurostar from London, and one of northern France’s undiscovered culinary gems. It has traditional Flemish estaminet restaurants like Estaminet La Ch’Tite Brigitte, which serves regional classics like carbonnade beef stew in beer, leek flamiche and escargot in maroilles cheese in an eclectic setting. Krevette is a stylish contemporary seafood bistrot serving the freshest local catch in dishes like breaded sardines with oyster mayonnaise and St Jacques with BBQ brown butter. Méert is a Lille institution famous for its pastel patisserie and caramel-filled waffles. Grand Scène is a colourful, neon-lit street-food market hall with 10 stands serving global specialities like tacos, bao, gyros and duck burgers. Finally, BierBuik is a trendy pink-tiled craft brew pub that also serves modern takes on Lille tavern dishes, including moules, crêpes, and some of the best frites in town. Bonnelles For a peaceful countryside escape Bonnelles is the idyllic setting to switch off, get outdoors and reset for a weekend. It’s a huge expanse of countryside just a short drive from Paris but it seems a world away from city life. Explore the protected Haute Vallée de Chevreuse Regional Natural Park or the Bonnelles Ponds nature reserve for serene walks. Le Barn is a must-visit for horse lovers, as it shares grounds with prestigious horsemanship school Haras de la Cense and is now offering a Horse Whisperer’s Experience for guests on Sundays. The two-and-a-half-hour experience introduces you to a horse, their training and behaviours, then gives you the chance to try out what you’ve learned at the lunge ring alongside an expert trainer. The venue is a popular retreat for Parisians looking to switch off from city life and is just as easily accessible from the UK, being just a 45-minute drive from Paris Orly airport. It champions local food, with a vast kitchen garden that provides a lot of the fruit and veg for the daily changing restaurant menu, designed by the head chef according to what’s in season. Other French classics, like award-winning cheese and wine, are locally sourced, and the simple breakfast is a treat. Think freshly baked baguettes, homemade jam, and bacon and eggs. Where to stay: Le Barn offers cosy rooms with tons of activities included in the price. From yoga to archery, there’s plenty on offer to occupy you while enjoying the 500-acre estate, full of grazing horses. The grounds have a sauna, hammam and Nordic baths, and two restaurants serving seasonal, locally sourced menus. Guests can also go for a massage, play board games by the fire or borrow an e-bike to explore the grounds, and kids can enjoy pony rides and games in the garden. Rooms are separate from the main building, across two converted barns with special suites available as well. Most have a balcony that overlooks the horse fields or the hotel’s lake (which is open for wild swimming if that’s your thing). Doubles from £200 per night, check availability at lebarnhotel.com or booking.com Normandy For local produce Calvados, cream, butter, cheese, apples, cider: like many places in France, Normandy is not easy on the arteries. It is, however, a superb place to sample AOC-status booze and food made by small, unfussy family producers, many of whom have been perfecting their produce since William the Conqueror started peppering the landscape with castles. Normandy boasts no fewer than 30 Michelin-starred restaurants and a packed calendar of food festivals throughout the year celebrating its natural larder, from the Fête du Camembert in Orbec in June, July’s oyster festival in Denneville, the Foire aux Fromages in Livarot in August, the scallop festival in Ouistreham in October and an annual cider festival in picturesque Beuvron-en-Auge. With 370 miles of coastline, menus are brimming with seafood. The region’s oysters have their own AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) and Port-en-Bessin’s scallops are justifiably famous – this is the home of coquilles St Jacques. The countryside is lush and green, grazed by native dairy herds, the region’s cheeseboard showcases the big four: livarot, neufchâtel, pont l’évêque and camembert de Normandie. The rolling hills are also blanketed with orchards of apples and pears, used to produce cider, calvados and poiré. Where to stay: soak up the impressive surroundings of the Château de la Puisaye, a rambling 18th-century property in Verneuil-sur-Avre, now an elegant b&b. British owners, Diana and Bruno Costes, have spent years renovating the Napolean III château, and now offer a handful of rooms in the main house, a studio over the stables and a holiday cottage: the old hunting lodge. Breakfast in the wood-panelled dining room is a delicious spread of home-baked bread and jams, fruit from their orchards, and local cheeses. Doubles from £115, check availability at booking.com Brittany For the home of crêpes You’re never more than a frisbee’s throw from a crêperie in Brittany. The northwest corner of France is famous for its pancakes – sweet, wafer-thin crêpes smeared with salted caramel or buckwheat galettes stuffed with artisan sausage. It’s also a popular bucket-and-spade destination. But there’s more to Brittany than beaches and pancakes. Its larder is bulging with cider, oysters and onions; that French stereotype, the beret-clad man on a bike with a string of onions round his neck, was an ‘onion Johnny,’ hopping from Brittany to Britain to sell sweet, pink onions from Roscoff. Butter is also big in Brittany – rich, creamy and seasoned with fleur de sel from the Guérande. Where to stay: Right by the water’s edge in Dinard, an elegant resort town in Brittany whose belle époque villas and grand hotels still hint at the grandeur of days gone by, Hotel Castelbrac holds its own among the surroundings. This fortress-like jumble of manicured stonework, originally built in the 1930s as a marine research station, sits on the town’s eastern shoreline overlooking St Malo across the water. Inside there’s a sophisticated, modern vibe (think art deco-inspired headboards and bathroom fittings, columns intricately tiled with mosaics and porthole-like windows illuminating velvet banquettes in the bar) while panoramic seaside views reflect the hotel’s restive, peaceful atmosphere. Splash out on one of the prestige rooms and you can enjoy panoramic windows stretching across the entire front of the room. Walk-in rain showers come as standard but some rooms also have elegant bathtubs at the foot of the beds Pampering is very much the order of the day here. Guests have access to private boat trips, bespoke treatments by Parisian spa brand Thémaéand a stunning sliver of a pool – a heated outdoor lap pool that lies just above the shore (bob your head up between strokes and you can look out at the sea below). Doubles from £349, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com The Dordogne For rural idyll There’s a reason why the Dordogne river has long been a magnet for those of us in search of classic beauty: it undulates through some of the loveliest parts of France, curling round towns and villages of gasp-inducing gorgeousness and, despite the odd sighting of jet-skis, gives the impression that nothing much ever changes. Head to Souillac (not for food, but for the slightly creepy Automaton museum; unmissable if you love the bizarre). And Sarlat, whose Saturday market is almost impossibly over-subscribed at the height of the summer season. As with many tourist destinations, the restaurants haven’t the greatest reputation, buy fat, vac-packed sausages and figs from the covered market in the Église Sainte Marie. For a blissful bout of people-watching at the heart of the market square, visit hilarious Jimmy’s Bar, a rockabilly French fantasy of a US diner, to eat oysters from one of the nearby market stalls and quantities of chilled Bergerac rosé. Where to stay: Chateau de la Treyne, clinging to the steep banks of the river, has baronial, wood-panelled rooms, vast open fireplaces and sense of serenity. Breakfast includes tiny, freshly made omelettes, cured ham, just-baked baguette and pastries, homemade jams and butter so luscious you could eat it by the spoonful. Dinner at the Chateau's Michelin-starred restaurant is quite the event, course after course of inventive cuisine making full use of the area’s native bounty – Quércy lamb, Aubrac beef and truffles (of course), in a tapestried room breathing stories of the past. Check rates and availability at chateaudelatreyne.com Read more about edible delights of the Dordogne here Sète For seaside fun Sète’s sandy beaches are thronged with visitors during summer, but the peninsula has bigger fish to fry than tourism – it’s the largest fishing port on the French Mediterranean coast, and behind it is the oyster-filled Thau lagoon. It’s picturesque, too – from the hillside ‘Little Naples’ district to its boat-lined canals, the 19th-century facades are an attractive reminder of the town’s prosperous wine-trading heritage. Local recipes – such as octopus-stuffed tielle pie – have stood the test of time, many brought by the Italian immigrants that settled here in the last century. The best seafood restaurants are along Quai Maximin Lucciardi near the harbour, where you’re likely to spot fishermen unloading still-writhing stock. Where to stay: Le Grand Hotel retains much of its belle époque charm. Velvet curtains and chandeliers set the scene for market-fresh ingredients at Quai 17, the hotel’s opulent restaurant; try the signature lobster risotto with bisque sauce, or local speciality bourride, a monkfish stew with aïoli. The bright bedrooms are spread across three elegant floors – go for one that overlooks the canal and gaze at the shimmering image of buildings and boats reflected in the water. Doubles from £149, check availability at booking.com Languedoc Roussillon For less crowded South of France West of the glitz and glamour of the Côte d’Azur is a quieter, less crowded corner of the South of France: the Languedoc Roussillon. Sweeping from Provence to the Pyrénées via a scenic string of historic towns and villages, shimmering coastline and wild, untamed countryside, the region is also one of the oldest and largest wine growing areas of the world. Inland you can take to the lazy waters of the Canal du Midi or the rugged surroundings of the Cévennes National Park or visit one of the many vineyards of the region. Historic local towns with their bustling produce markets like Pézanas, Béziers and Narbonne provide plenty of scope for picking up ingredients if you want to self-cater. Where to stay: wine forms the central theme of Château St. Pierre de Serjac, a 200-acre hotel-cum-vineyard outside Puissalicon. At its heart is a turreted, 19th century chateau surrounded by fragrant gardens, olive trees and palms. From its windows guests can gaze out over a huge, heated infinity pool onto regimented rows of vines and, beyond it, the fertile Langeudocienne landscape. The ground floor is home to the reception area, bar and a fine dining restaurant, and is decorated in a sophisticated palette of peacock and teal with Art Deco-style chandeliers picked up in the antiques market in nearby Béziers. A Cinq Mondes spa, with tranquil indoor pool, completes the picture. Upstairs in the château are eight, luxurious suites, fittingly decked out with chandeliers, antiques, roll-top baths and singular touches such as (in an eaves room) the hand-painted walls of a former chapel. An extensive renovation has also seen the repurposing of the estates’ many outbuildings, resulting in 36-self catering apartments and houses. These are the real appeal for families. Sleeping two to eight, each one has been tastefully decorated in 50 shades of Elephant’s Breath with lots of linen, oak and wrought iron. They also come with high spec kitchens and all the latest tech – some of the larger properties also have fenced off pools. Amble over to the château for breakfast in the main restaurant – a spread of freshly baked croissants and pastries, fruit, yoghurt, cereals and hot dishes cooked to order. Doubles from £238, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrsssmith.com South Pigalle, Paris For Parisian patisserie The once overlooked SoPi neighbourhood is now a must-visit for its artisan patisseries, hip bistros and stellar cheese shops. If you're travelling to Paris for the patisserie alone, check out Sébastien Gaudard’s Rue des Martyrs boutique. Whether you want a choux bun, or a jar of crème de marrons (chestnut cream), you'll feel like a child in a sweet shop. They look almost too good to eat, but don't let that stop you. After all those cakes, a coffee might be in order, so stop off at KB Café Shop. After spending time in Sydney, the French owner wanted to bring some Australian influence back to France. It's got a relaxed vibe and the beans are roasted on site so they're as fresh as can be. Flaine For a foodie ski trip Looking for the best French ski trip? Set in the French Alps, Flaine is the ideal base for a weekend spent skiing and indulging in vin chaud and crepes. Restaurant Le Michet is set at a handy spot where many of the runs converge. It’s a place to wallow inside on a cold evening, protected by timber rafters, thick stone walls and central fireplace. If you’re after Savoyard specialities you’ll find everything from tartiflette to home-smoked trout and salmon on the menu but it’s worth experimenting with some of the more unusual dishes; the subtly spiced lentils with coconut milk and black rice (essentially a creamy dhal) is great post-ski fuel. Make sure you take a big enough suitcase to squirrel away some gourmet souvenirs from artisan food store Chez Bolzi on your way home. In the centre of Flaine Forum, close to the tourist office, almost everything it sells comes from within a 50km radius of Flaine; take your pick from reblochon and tome cheeses, Savoie salamis, beer from Brasserie Mont Blanc and Savoie-produced Pinot Noir and Cremant. Where to stay: Make Terminal Neige Totem your base, with its views out on the slopes and outdoor hot tub. The buffet food they offer is much more than your average spread, think plates of charcuterie and cheese, pan-fried seabass as well as fondue. Don’t miss out on the dessert bar – a place to indulge in Nutella mug cakes, made-to-order waffles and homemade bluberry marshmallows. If you need a break from all the skiing, head to one of the street food stalls in Flaine Forum and warm yourself up with hot crepes. Read our full guide to Flaine, here. Bordeaux For a winter getaway This city’s robust signature dishes, rib-sticking entrecôte cooked in red wine, butter, shallots, herbs and bone marrow sauce, confit duck and lamprey, come into their own in winter, and it’s an excellent place to shop for foodie stocking fillers. Each year, Bordeaux’s Allées de Tourny is transformed into a Christmas market with wooden huts and stalls selling local gifts, many of them food-related. Stock up on canelés from Baillardran and don’t miss Maison Darricau for handmade chocolates peppered with honey and spices. Where to stay: Twenty minutes’ drive from Bordeaux, Les Sources de Caudalie is the epitome of French country chic. There’s a stone manor house at its heart, a small lake, and a hard-working kitchen garden, plus a hamlet-like extension of suites. Great food and wine are the focus at this gastronomic getaway, but even the finest dining (the hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, holds two Michelin stars) is done without fuss. The newer, cabin-like suites (designed to reflect the oyster fishermen’s huts of Cap Ferret, in the nearby Arcachon Basin), with their whitewashed timber walls, retro-influenced furniture and spa-like bathrooms, are the ones to splash out on; in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by frogs as you return to your room along flower- and water-lined pathways. In the mornings, step onto your private terrace and watch carthorses ploughing the vines just outside. The three restaurants at Les Sources have most tastes covered. Celebrate a special occasion with dinner in La Grand’Vigne and enjoy a meal where even the table salts stick in the memory (one of ours, blended with Bordeaux pimento, was the colour of roast peppers). The cheeseboard comes with fresh cottage cheese, from a local dairy, served with a dot of cherry jam. Doubles from £272, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or expedia.co.uk Biarritz For a foodie French seaside trip If you’re looking for a French spring getaway, head to Biarritz – a glitzy seaside resort which is the perfect place for cheese lovers. Start off with a visit to Crampotte 30, an old fisherman's hut turned restaurant serving a selection of pintxos. Head to halles-biarritz for a selection of regional produce including dry-cured bayonne ham. Don’t leave before visiting Patisserie Miremont, a confectionary shop that dates back to the 19th century. Order the speciality which is a chocolate mousse cake called Le Beret Basque. Bayonne For a visit to the French capital of chocolate The tranquil city of Bayonne embodies the gastronomic energy of the Basque region, historically famed for its artisanal hams, and as the French capital of chocolate. The legendary Chocolat Cazenave serves up intense bubble-topped ‘sparkling’ hot chocolates in porcelain cups. Chocolaterie Xokola Etxetera specialises in chocolate spreads infused with spicy Espelette pepper, and L’Atelier du Chocolat Bayonne has its iconic Bayonne chocolate shard bouquets. Eat pintxos including jamon croquettes, truffled croque monsieur and Pyrenees milk-fed lamb kebabs at Les Basses Pyrénées bar. Then, for dinner, head to La Brasserie Basa for fish dishes with daily catch from the local village of Saint-Jean-De-Luz, and sweet creations such as buckwheat almond praline choux to finish. Europcamp Domaine de Massereau For a foodie family camping trip Eurocamping is an affordable way to have a family holiday, but Domaine de Massereau promises so much more than just a campsite. The on-site vineyard produces 30,000 bottles a year, and you can sample of few of them on the free one hour-tour and tasting each evening. If you find one you like, stock up as they’re rarely exported. If you want to eat on-site, you can order pizzas fresh from the wood-fired oven or seafood platters piled high with crabs, razor clams and langoustines. Should you wish to explore the local area, head into Sommières – a beautiful French town with shuttered buildings and market squares. Read our full guide to Eurocamp Domaine de Massereau, here. 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Best restaurants in Tbilisi: where locals eat in the vibrant Georgian capital
Explore this energetic crossroads city via soup dumplings, supra-style sharing feasts and unique wines made using ancient techniques
Looking for restaurants in Tbilisi? Want to know where to eat and drink in the Georgian capital? Restaurateur Giorgi Mindiashvili showed me his favourite spots in his hometown, and shares a deep-dive into Georgian cuisine here. For more European travel guides, check out our picks of the where to eat in Porto, the best restaurants in Prague or our favourite European city breaks. Where to eat and drink in Tbilisi, Georgia Shavi Lomi – for sharing-style suppers Named after Niko Pirosmani’s Black Lion painting, this stunning tree-lined courtyard and cosy converted house is popular with artsy locals. Centre stage is the gobi, a thali-style wooden sharing bowl filled with multicoloured pkhali dips, fresh cheeses and breads. Next comes the likes of stuffed lobiani, whole grilled aubergines doused in walnut and pomegranate sauce, Georgian lamb risotto and beef dolma with minted yogurt. Plus, layered honey cake for dessert. instagram.com/shavilomi_tbilisicuisine/ Craft – for cosy bistro feels A concept store turned bistro and wine bar with a warm, homely feel, showcasing ceramics from Georgian artisans on its blush pink walls. Alongside rotating wines from small-batch producers (Artana, Ethno, Kiketi Farm), authentic flavours and regional dishes are given a contemporary lift. Think pan-fried butter mushrooms in bazhe (spiced walnut sauce), fresh from the oven lavash flatbreads and marinated aubergine from the charcoal makali grill served with spiced green chilli ajika and red pepper pkhali. craftwinerestaurant.com Saperavi – for wine ice cream Look out for kiosks selling unique, purple-hued wine ice cream, including this pretty wooden domed kiosk perched above the river by the Second Bridge of Love. Order a cone piled high with wine soft serve and a glass of fresh pomegranate juice before heading to the atmospheric Orbeliani Baths for a rejuvenating sulfur soak and scrub. 8 Abano Turn Oro – for western Megrelian dishes Set in a former printing house with elegant interiors and a leafy courtyard, Oro is an ode to Georgia’s historic western Megrelian region, with a little spicier cuisine and unique preparation techniques – for example, its pizza-style khachapuri served with bubbling cheese on top. Try regional sharing feasts of elarji (pulled sulguni cheese melted into cornmeal ghomi), adjika-roasted corn on the cob, herb-flecked kharcho stew, roast shkmeruli chicken in a creamy garlic sauce and cottage cheese dumplings served with fig jam and soured cream. The wine list has a section dedicated to qvevri wines using ancient techniques from Tegani, Nareklishvili and Kviriashvili vineyards. orotbilisi.ge Caravanserai Bakery – for Georgian bakes Housed in a vaulted cellar hidden beneath Tbilisi's old town, this traditional Georgian bakery offers all kinds of baked goods, most notably khachapuri cheese breads. Female bakers in traditional aprons are on hand to guide tastings through the repertoire of curd cheese-filled imeruli, meat-filled kubdari and megruli with extra bubbling cheese on top. 13/40 Sioni St Kakhelebi – for farm-to-table Kakhetian cuisine On the outskirts of Tbilisi lies this popular roadside restaurant, where locals flock for long lunches. Most of the produce used in the sharing dishes is grown on the restaurant's own farm in the rich, fertile Kakheti region. Salads come jewelled with pomegranates and walnuts and platters of delicate khinkali were the freshest I tried in the city. Slow-cooked tomato and herb goat stew and juices from an assortment of shish-style mtsvadi skewers (goat, lamb, pork) can be mopped up with grilled flatbread pockets. The owners even make their own wine following the traditional qvevri method, while surplus grapes are used to make pelamushi pudding. instagram.com/kakhelebi/ Keto & Kote – for special occasions Offering sweeping views of the city from its expansive terrace, this beguiling 19th-century mansion is nestled into the trees in Tbilisi's Vera district. Inside, chandeliers, handwoven tapestries and murals add splashes of colour to the building's wooden floorboards, shutters and intricate cornicing. Contemporary takes on Georgian classics include red bean-filled lobiani, megrelian cheese pie, chikhirtma herby chicken broth and plenty of fresh zingy salads. A dessert table is laid with the likes of meringue pie, walnut honey cake and the signature cherry tart. instagram.com/ketoandkote/ Saamuri – for natural wine This natural wine bar and shop is a lesson in industrial chic, housed in a former sewing factory as part of urban space Fabrika. Its shiny walls are left bare save for contemporary wooden shelves from which a curation of natural Georgian wines shine. Sit at the tiled window counter to watch the world go by before hopping across the way to Popolo for thin-crust pizza if you've had too many dumplings. fabrikatbilisi.com Where to stay in Tbilisi – Stamba Stamba’s former life as a 1950s publishing house is embraced from the moment you enter – a functional printing press runs along the ceiling of the brutalist-style lobby, through which trees grow alongside concrete pillars. A mustard-hued wood oven for baking kachapuri takes centre stage in the main all-day Georgian European fusion brasserie, with the kitsch Pink Bar offshoot serving signature cocktails and a coffee and chocolate roastery for soothing treats. The building sprawls out in all directions, with original floor-to-ceiling windows opening into concrete jungle courtyards, co-working spaces and a dedicated wine bar and shop, Warehouse, where an ex-Noma sommelier guides guests through tastings from Georgia’s finest vineyards. Spacious rooms interweave industrial features with contemporary Georgian artwork, bold furnishings and mini libraries. Plush amenities include brass and copper bathtubs, state of the art coffee machines and regional spirits, and recipes to craft your own cocktails. stambahotel.com
Best restaurants in Athens: where a local eats in the Greek capital
Discover the tavernas with sun-dappled courtyards, the top bakeries, coolest wine bars and more with our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Athens
Looking for the best restaurants, bars and café's in Greece's foodie capital? We asked Athens-based Kate Lough for her top recommendations. For more European travel guides, check out our picks of the where to eat in Porto, best restaurants in Tbilisi, Georgia, the best restaurants in Prague or our favourite European city breaks. After falling more and more in love with Athens over the past 18 months, I moved to its Kypseli neighbourhood in January 2025 – the fitting culmination of a childhood spent devouring Greek myths, exploring its sun-drunk islands and studying its ancient language. An undulating city that straddles ancient and modern, Athens fizzes with a creative energy. Its gastronomic scene also ripens from month to month, as homegrown chefs open dynamic restaurants and native wine producers bolster its drinks menus. From old-school classics to contemporary tavernas, here are a handful of my favourites, many of which celebrate homegrown ingredients, methods and vines. Best places to eat and drink in Athens Linou Soumpasis & Sia, Psiri Open since 2022, Linou Soumpasis & Sia is one of the best examples of Athens’ neo-gastronomy. It's a love letter to Greek produce and wines, including some brilliant pet nats, and most of its offerings are made from scratch. An all-white space is perked up with metal tables and chairs and wooden counters (a great option for solo diners), and warmed with skinny beeswax church candles — apt for a former candle shop. Choose from top quality dishes with a pescatarian leaning such as hot wild greens, tuna carpaccio in watermelon oil and grilled John Dory. New for 2025, it now serves breakfast — including a delicious schnitzel bun. Seychelles, Keramikos Located in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Keramikos, Seychelles is an older favourite on the neo-taverna scene. Always packed, this relaxed spot works just as well for a long lunch with friends as it does perching at the small bar for a late dinner à deux. The menu, inspired by small producers around Greece, changes regularly, but make sure to try its stalwart beef pappardelle, topped with soft mizithra cheese. Taverna Ton Filon, Kolonos Drawing a loyal crowd to scruffy Kolonos, Taverna Ton Filon is a co-venture from chef Yiannis Mousios and sommelier Giorgos Kontorizos. Charmingly decorated in homage to its 1950s origins, this modern taverna riffs on traditional Greek dishes, paired with good value Greek wines. The menu changes daily, but you can expect plates such as roasted beetroot with walnut skordalia, grilled sardines and some excellent wedges of potato — plus, for dessert, an addictive chocolate mousse laced with salt. In summer, the softly lit courtyard space is one of the loveliest alfresco spots in Athens. instagram.com/tavernatonfilon Oikonomou, Ano Petralona Opposite the much loved Zefyros outdoor cinema in the leafy neighbourhood of Ano Petralona, Oikonomou has been serving up comforting family recipes since 1930. With its chequered tile floor and joyful primrose yellow walls, it is a simple, homely taverna that nourishes stomach and soul. Alongside pitchers of hyma (house wine), order traditional dishes such as fava, rooster with spaghetti and roast lamb, which falls off the bone. On sunnier days, sit at one of its pavement tables under the shade of olive trees. Manari Taverna, Monastiraki A newcomer to the Athenian scene at the end of 2024, Manari has quickly cemented itself as one of the hottest tables in town. From the founder of Birdman and Nolan, it focuses heavily on meat, with a hefty chunk of its menu cooked over fire. Come with a big group and order a pile of the oregano-marinated chicken or mutton paidakia and the melt-in-the-mouth lamb giouvetsi, alongside its cabbage salad and top-notch patates. Make sure to book ahead. manaritaverna.com Epta Martyres, Neos Kosmos Run by a group of friends, this is a low-intervention wine bar with meze dishes inspired by the tsipouradika bars of Volos – where many of the team come from and sister to Loggia in Sifnos. Sit outside with a pét nat and make your way through the chef ’s surprise plates. @eptamartyres.athens Ta Kanaria, Moschato An idyllic option for Sunday lunch, you will be surrounded by Greek families in the sun-dappled courtyard of Ta Kanaria. Run by the Argyropoulos family since the 1950s, this fish taverna has no menu, which only makes it more delightful. Dark olives, thick slices of olive oil-drenched feta and a perfect tomato salad (with grated onion) are served ahead of platters of plump prawns and excellent whole fish such as bream or red mullet sold by the kilo. Pharaoh, Exarchia Don’t let its location on a dodgy street between Exarchia and Omonia put you off. Once inside, Pharoah always delivers on a sexy vibe. The proud owner of a Michelin Bib Gourmand, it combines village-style dishes cooked the old fashioned way (over fire and in wood ovens), an extensive natural wine list from Greece and beyond, and vinyl. Once the kitchen closes, it transforms into a late-night bar, soundtracked by the city’s finest DJs. pharaoh.gr Di Porto, Monastiraki Another Athenian institution, you will find Di Porto down a few stairs in a nondescript basement opposite the Varvakeios fish market. Workers and visitors mingle at this no-menu joint that has been in operation since the late 1800s. Retsina is served in aluminium jugs, bread is plonked straight onto butcher’s paper stretched across its few tables and plates (made with ingredients from the market) include simple things such as chickpeas, meat stews and Greek salad. No-frills authenticity. Black Salami, Exarchia The Black Salami micro-bakery makes the best sandwiches in Athens, with its chewy yet crispy focaccia-style bread. It sells out every day by closing time at 5pm, so get there early to choose the best fillings — including my favourite with mortadella, tomato, feta and pistachios. instagram.com/the_black_salami_microbakery Materia Prima, Pagrati Occupying a gorgeous spot on the edge of Mesolongiou Square in Pagrati, this is the second wine bistro from the Materia Prima team. A changing menu of dishes such as potato cakes, pasta with lemon and wild mushrooms, and short ribs with celeriac are married with an impressive wine list that changes monthly — and runs the gamut from Greek Assyrtikos and Xinomavros to Pinot Noirs from Chile. materiaprima.gr Dexamenes, Kolonaki An all-day spot leading up the pedestrianised street from Dexameni Square, this is a winner for a sunny weekend lunch in elegant Kolonaki. Informal and walk-in only — there is often a queue but it moves quickly — Dexamenes sets up its dark green tables on the pavement and serves up a reasonably priced menu of mezze-style dishes such as dakos salad and fried calamari, with jugs of white or tall glasses of cloudy ouzo. Afterwards, you can climb nearby Lycabettus Hill for a spectacular view of the Acropolis and the wider sprawl of Athens below. Kennedy Vins, Syntagma Self-styled as a ‘sans sulphite listening bar’, Kennedy Vins is one of the best-looking spaces in Athens, and the latest project from photographer and magazine founder Chris Kontos. Small but perfectly formed, the bar has a thoughtful list of wines from small French producers — with a focus on the Alsace region — simple plates of cheese and charcuterie and a high-end sound system for records, which Kontos personally selects each evening. instagram.com/kennedyvins Diporto, Downtown Diporto sits in a nondescript basement opposite the Varvakeios fish market. Workers and visitors mingle at this no-menu joint, in operation since the late 1800s. Retsina is served in aluminium jugs, bread is plonked straight onto butcher’s paper and plates include simple but market-fresh grilled sardines and stews. Kora Bakery, Kolonaki Near the bottom of Lycabettus Hill, Kora is a contemporary Athenian bakery specialising in sourdough and viennoiserie. Stop by for a high quality loaf, a pain au chocolat or one of its famous salted cookies. Look out for its fleeting offerings, including hot cross buns at Easter (a nod to co-founder Ianthi Michalaki’s time in London) or melomakarona (small honey cakes) at Christmas. korabakery.com Tanini Agapi Mou, Exarchia One of the pioneers of Athens’ natural wine scene, Tanini Agapi Mou (which translates as ‘Tanin my love’) has an impressive cellar of 100 all-Greek natural wines — most of which are available by the glass. Its knowledgeable, friendly staff are on hand to guide you through the vast menu (helpful ruler included), which roams from Serifos to Crete to Thessaly. Plus, look out for its regular tasting nights. taniniagapimou.gr Wine is Fine, Monastiraki A hit since it opened in 2023, this Gallo-Greek natural wine bar and restaurant puts a relaxed spin on white-tablecloth drinking and dining. Settle in at one of its pavement tables, and make your way through its low or no-intervention glasses of the day — soaked up with a bowl of its much loved cacio e pepe. Walk-ins only. wineisfine.gr A foodie day trip outside of Athens An hour’s drive from central Athens, just over the Corinth Canal, lies the Peloponnese. Book in for lunch at Kavos 1964, an iconic family-run taverna known for its fish and shellfish dishes. After a quick dip on the tiny beach nearby, order some taramasalata, kalamaraki and horta (wild greens) to start, before sharing a vast platter of spaghetti with clams. After a long lunch, you can visit the ancient theatre in Epidaurus, which is only a short drive away and one of Greece’s most important archaeological sites. More travel guides Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Why I love Georgia, the home of cheesy khachapuri and unique wine
Giorgi Mindiashvili, Georgian restaurateur and owner of soon to open DakaDaka in London, shares what makes the cuisine of his homeland so special
From cheesy khachapuri to hearty stews and unique local wines, Georgia has plenty to offer foodies. Restaurateur Giorgi Mindiashvili shares the things he loves the most about his homeland. Find out where he loves to eat and the best restaurants in Tbilisi here. After you've read our guide below, check out our guides to Turkey and Finland, then discover our Turkish recipes. Georgian food: 10 things we love Khachapuri We have endless varieties of khachapuri, each from a different region. From boat-shaped adjaruli, filled with mixture of imeruli and sulguni cheese, and topped with butter and egg yolk, to round imeruli stuffed with fresh curd cheese, and chakhragina, my personal favourite, filled with chard and salty cheese. Khinkali No Georgian table is complete without khinkali, our famous dumplings. The story goes that they travelled from the east centuries ago, carried by nomadic tribes crossing the Caucasus. Today they’re made in every region, each with its own touch – some with beef and pork, some with lamb, mushrooms or cheese curds. To eat one properly, pick it up by the twisted stalk (we call it the belly button), turn it upside down, take a bite, slurp the hot broth, then eat the rest. It’s a meal and a ritual in one. Spices Tbilisi’s position on the old Silk Road means centuries of spice passed through our kitchens. From Persian saffron to Syrian coriander and Indian flatbreads, everything found a way into Georgian cooking. The backbone of our flavour is khmeli suneli, a golden-green spice blend of blue fenugreek, marigold and coriander. It seasons our stews – kharcho and satsivi – and ties the country’s east and west together in one shared taste. Georgian wine Georgia is where wine was born. Archaeologists have found evidence of winemaking dating back to 8,000 BC. We still use qvevri – large clay vessels buried underground – to ferment and age the wine, allowing it to breathe naturally. It’s not a trend here, it’s ancestry. The soils, often chalky and mineral-rich, give our wines a saline edge. In the east, the region of Kakheti produces structured, powerful wines from grapes like saperavi, rkatsiteli, khikhvi and krakhuna. In the west, Imereti and Samegrelo give lighter, more aromatic expressions – tsitska, tsolikouri, ojaleshi, otskhanuri sapere. We distil the left-over grape must into fiery chacha (our grappa) and we make churchkhela, candle-shaped sweets of walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice. Walnuts – the sacred ingredient Almost every Georgian household has a walnut tree in its garden. We use walnuts in everything: as the base for sauces and spreads, for thickening stews and in countless versions of pkhali – finely ground walnuts mixed with spinach, aubergine or the wild mountain herb ekala. It’s one ingredient that defines the Georgian palate: earthy, nutty, nourishing and beautifully versatile. Supra and sharing-style menus If you really want to understand Georgia, start with a supra. These traditional feasts used to take place outdoors. There would be catfish in coriander-vinegar sauce, crispy suckling pig, whole chicken, tomato and cucumber salads, bundles of herbs, spring onions and radishes, bowls of pkhali – vibrant walnut and vegetable spreads – and still-warm shoti bread fresh from the clay oven. Every supra has a tamada, the toastmaster, who leads the table in toasts – to love, to peace, to the future – often accompanied by polyphonic singing. These days supras are mostly for celebrations and holidays but their spirit lives on in sharing-style dining in Georgian households and restaurants. Festive feasting Before Orthodox Christmas (7 January) many Georgians observe a 40-day plant-based fast. When the fast breaks it’s not just a meal, it’s renewal. Families gather, bringing dishes from their own homes: satsivi (chicken in walnut-garlic sauce), Rachan ham, aubergine pkhali, crispy roast pork and gozinaki, walnut and honey sweets. Candles glow in the window, a special cloth covers the table and the house fills with warmth. Rachan ham In the Racha mountains, people make a cured ham called lori. The pig is slaughtered in October, the hams hung, smoked and left to dry for months in the cold air. In winter, thin slices are added to lobio – a claypot stew of red beans, walnuts and spices – then sealed under a layer of cornbread and slow cooked over fire. The flavour is smoky, nutty and deep, like Georgia’s answer to cassoulet. Shkmeruli Named after the highland village of Shkmeri, this dish is the essence of Georgian comfort food. A spatchcock chicken is pan-fried until crisp, then cooked with garlic in its own juices. In the city people began to whisk the pan juices with a little cream, creating a silky emulsion not unlike a Basque pil pil. Traditionally it’s cooked in cast iron with a heavy stone on top for the perfect crust. Once served it’s drenched in its own hot garlicky sauce – simple, humble, extraordinary. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2024/04/GettyImages-1314856610-85f3a0e.jpg" width="594" height="396" alt="Shkmeruli, is a traditional Georgian dish of chicken in garlic sauce. Both sides of the chicken are fried and then is cooked over low heat for 20–25 minutes in the covered pan. When the chicken is done, it is placed in a plate and a little oil from the pan is added; garlic and nuts are simmered along with water in the remaining oil. After 5 minutes, the chicken is added to this mixture and heated before serving. Almaty, Kazakhstan. (Photo by: Kushamanov Didar/Majority World/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)" title="Shkmeruli, is a traditional Georgian dish of chicken in garlic sauce." /> Hearty stews Comforting stews slow cooking for hours over a stove are a staple in Georgian households. These include kharcho (beef, tomatoes, herbs and ghomi, our version of grits), workers’ favourite ostri (spicy beef with chilli and deep umami), chicken chahhokhbili braised with tomatoes, herbs and fiery ajika paste, and bright spring chakapuli with lamb, tarragon and sour plums. Perhaps the most beloved of all is satsivi, made of cold chicken bathed in thick walnut sauce, finished with saffron oil. 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Celebrate the bold, warming flavours of the Czech Republic with these classic recipes, from hearty dumplings to iconic beer snacks and buttery bakes.
Want to learn about Czech food or looking for Czech recipes? Read Evie Harbury's guide, then check out the guide to Turkish food and Maltese food. Recipes extracted from My Bohemian Kitchen by Evie Harbury (£20, Murdoch Books). Photographs by Ola O Smit. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us. Czech cuisine Czech cuisine is bold. Despite being a country not widely known for its gastronomy, boy, does the food speak volumes. It's accidentally seasonal and serendipitously simple. The flavours are similar to those you might be familiar with in German, Austrian and Polish cuisine (by no coincidence, since these are the countries that border it). With paprika, pickles, cabbage, mustard and dill featuring heavily, the rich cooked meats – such as beef, duck and pork – are complemented by perfectly prepared carbs and garden-grown vegetables. Other key flavour-makers that feature on a typical plate of food are caraway seeds, marjoram (both fresh and dried) and mushrooms (often foraged from the forests). As a Bohemian, I firmly believe the best things in life come wrapped in dough. In Czech cuisine, these take the form of hearty, warming dumplings stuffed with smoked meat and served on sauerkraut, or even turned into a sweet treat filled with strawberries, apricots or plums. Not all the array of Czech dumplings are stuffed, though – some are served on the side to soak up the flavourful sauces and accompany meats. Bakes and sweet treats are certainly a highlight of Czech cuisine, often favouring jam, fruit or nutty fillings over chocolate ones – the cakes, biscuits and bakes tend to be simple but purposeful. No fuss and few frills, but melt-in-your-mouth delicious. The linzer cookies featured here are a great example. Like in plenty of places around the world, the food is the language of love, but not in a soppy way – in a "I’m going to prove I love you by showering you (metaphorically) in copious amounts of food that I spent hours of my life growing, nurturing and preparing" kind of way. Importantly, the food is best washed down with slivovice, a Czech plum brandy that is drunk as an aperitif, digestif and everything in between. If someone offers you a taste of their homemade slivovice, made from the plums in their orchard, know that you’ve made a friend for life. Czech recipes Smoked ham stuffed dumplings (Bramborové knedlíky plnené uzeným masem) Satisfying to both make and eat, this recipe has such simple ingredients and yet delivers an interesting and massively filling plate of food. In the Czech Republic, you can buy a large piece of cooked smoked ham in any supermarket or butcher but, as that is not the case everywhere else, I have suggested using pancetta instead. These dumplings are served sprinkled with what I’ve heard described as České zlato {chess-kair zla-toh} – ‘Czech gold’ – a poetic term for golden crispy onions that accurately expresses just how valuable a part of the meal they are, the all-important finishing touch that brings the whole dish together. Marinated cheese (Nakládaný hermelín) This is one of Bohemia’s most iconic beer snacks, found in nearly every pub in the region. It goes hand in hand with Czech beer culture, where pivní chut’ovky (beer snacks) are an essential part of the drinking experience – arguably just as important as the beer itself. This is often made with hermelín, a soft Czech cheese from Sedlcany – 25 miles south of Prague – that is akin to camembert. It’s usually served with a couple of thick slices of freshly baked rye bread and always a large, ice-cold pilsner. A tangy, spiced, creamy snack that takes to beer like a duck to water. You will need a 500ml container or wide jar. Linzer cookies (Linecké cukroví) Two buttery biscuits sandwiched together with a gooey layer of jam: the textures here balance carefully on the line between beautifully crumbly and deliciously melty. As visually appealing as they are tasty, these cookies are an ideal sweet snack. Note that these need to be made the day before you want to eat or serve them, and the dough also needs chilling time. They are perfect to pack into a box to give as a gift, or just to keep on hand for your afternoon cup of tea. You can make mini ones as a part of your Christmas biscuit offering, too.
From romantic markets dotted around a forest-lined lake to family-friendly markets in French towns, here are 9 of the best continental Christmas markets for the festive season
Looking for the best Christmas markets? Want to find the best European food markets? Read on for 9 of the best continental Christmas markets, then discover the best spots for winter sun and our favourite foodie city breaks by train. Brussels, Belgium Head to Brussels for Christmas markets filled with freshly fried frites, warm waffles and chocolatiers galore. Running from 28 November until 1 January 2025, the Christmas markets spread over several squares in the centre of the city with over 200 chalets, a towering Christmas tree, an ice skating rink, curling and a ferris wheel to take in views over the city. Choirs perform on an igloo-shaped stage at weekends and there's a Santas Workshop with children's activities. From 5pm to 10pm every day, a five minute video and light show is projected onto the tower of the City Hall every 30 minutes. This year's theme is 'Winter Wonders'. Chalets serve warming tartiflette, glühwein, thick hot chocolates and waffles – discover the difference between the two waffles styles, Liege and Brussels waffles, by trying both, naturally. brussels.be <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2024/11/Brussels-market-232cb1d.jpg" width="2118" height="1412" alt="Christmas tree in the iconic "Grand Place" (literally "Big Square") in the centre of Brussels. Built mainly between 1696 and 1704 the square has beautiful façades, with a mixture of baroque and Renaissance architecture. During Christmas evening, there's a light festival at dusk, as well as christmas markets." title="Magic Christmas light at Brussels Grand Place Belgium, Europe" /> Vienna, Austria You're spoilt for choice with Christmas markets to explore in Vienna, with festivities springing up in every square and palace gardens across the city and over 20 official markets. The Viennese Dream Christmas Market is the largest, held on the square in front of the city hall, with light installations, plenty of mulled wine and choirs singing carols at the weekends. Visit both the Schönbrunn Palace and Belvedere Palace for smart markets in the palace grounds. Hot punch (mulled wine, but also mulled amaretto, gin or even mulled Aperol) will keep your hands warm. Try langos – fried dough topped with sour cream and grated cheese, and hot kartoffelpuffer – freshly fried crispy potato pancakes. For something sweet, kaiserschmarrn is shredded fluffy pancakes served with plenty of icing sugar. austria.info Lisbon, Portugal Sweet aromas of roast chestnuts fill the air in the Portuguese capital from 11 November (St Martin’s Day). Grab a paper cone and wander the steep, cobbled streets, joining locals in corner kiosks as they shot cherry liqueur (ginja). Rossio Square comes to life in December with wooden huts in its Christmas market, as does the old Campo Pequeno bull ring, that hosts exclusively Portuguese artisans. The technicolour designs of Conserveira de Lisboa’s tinned fish make pretty stocking fillers to take home for loved ones, as do pastéis de nata scented lip balms and hand creams from Lisbon beauty brand Benamôr. visitlisbon.com Krakow, Poland Only a two hour flight from most UK airports, Krakow offers a picture perfect Christmas market experience. The Krakow Christmas market is centred in and around Krakow’s Main Square with over 80 huts, plus a main stage for festive entertainment. Foodies will find mulled beer alongside mulled wine, spiced beetroot soups, hot sausages and tender roasted pork knuckles. Pierogi (Polish dumplings) are a must try, with stalls selling wide varieties of fillings. Bruges, Belgium Bruges brings the fairytale festive charm with medieval buildings, winding streets and boats floating down the canal. Bruges' Christmas markets are known as 'Winter Glow' celebrations and two markets take over the city in December: the Market Square offers traditional Christmas market charm and the Simon Stevin Square is filled with crafts to buy for souvenirs. As well as the markets, there is ice skating, a magical lights trail and decorations throughout the city. The air is filled with the scent of fresh waffles and stopping into tiny chocolatiers for treats to take home is a must. Combine a trip to Bruges with stopping in Brussels for double the Christmas market fun. visitbruges.be Arras, France If you're craving a quick Christmas weekend getaway this December, look no further than the charming historic town of Arras. A mere 2-hour journey from London will transport you from the hustle and bustle of city life to the enchanting Christmas markets with more than 140 stalls nestled across three magnificent Flemish-Baroque-styled squares. These markets, while not the largest in Europe, boast a delightful array of attractions for all ages – from a vintage carousel and ice rink for the kids, to delectable local treats like chicory conserve, honey and craft beers. arraspaysdartois.com Bled, Slovenia A misty Lake Bled and the tiny, church-topped island at its centre form the backdrop to one of Slovenia’s most romantic Christmas markets, the Winter Fairytale, open from 28 Nov-4 January. Walk beside the forest-lined lake, following a route marked by flickering fire torches and watch a team of divers ceremonially recover the lake’s sunken bell on Christmas Day, then hit the market stalls to track down festive gifts, and food and drink typical of Slovenia’s Gorenjska region. Try a golden fried potato snack called pocrt krompir, or a slice of potica – a swirly cake made from paper-thin sweet dough and creamed nuts, rolled as tight as a pinwheel biscuit – but leave room for Bled cream cake, a neat little square made from layers of butter puff pastry, vanilla cream and whipped cream. bled.si Riga, Latvia The air is sweet with roast almonds, mulled wine and glazed gingerbread at Riga’s Old Town Christmas Market, open from 28 November. Way back in 1510, the Latvian capital was one of the first two cities in the world (the other was Tallinn) to display a Christmas tree in the way we do today – the supposed spot, in Cathedral Square, is where the festive market now stands. Little wooden huts sell everything from hand-knitted mittens to carved wooden spoons and piping-hot “grey peas”. Despite the uninspiring name, the latter is actually a delicious combination of sticky-sweet onions, Latvian peas and crispy bacon, fried together until fragrant. You can also eat sausages with sauerkraut and drink hot cocktails made with Riga Black Balsam (a herbal liqueur made from vodka infused by black pepper and valerian). vzt.lv/ Black Forest, Germany Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market takes place, as the name suggests, in a geological chasm beneath a railway viaduct in Germany’s Black Forest. Among its 40 or so snow-capped cabins are those selling everything from cuckoo clocks to cherry-topped Black Forest gâteau, Black Forest-smoked trout and venison, and flammkuchen – a German-style flatbread topped with bacon, onion and cheese. To drink, it's all about a theatrical glass of feuerzangenbowle: mulled wine topped with a square of rum-soaked sugarloaf which is set alight as it’s served. While you shop, frosty blue lights bounce off the Höllentalbahn railway line 40 metres above you, and for a special treat you can hike to the Christmas market via the Löffeltal walk, a 3km trail starting from Hinterzarten village (there are shuttle buses back, if you’re knocked out by all that feuerzangenbowle). hochschwarzwald.de Trento, Italy Split across Piazza Fiera and Piazza Cesare Battisti, Trento’s Christmas market is so dedicated to local produce and sustainability (there’s a ban on plastic bags) that the city has earned itself the reputation of Italy’s Città del Natale. Browse nearly 100 stalls selling regional specialities, including dried orange slices, local sheep’s cheese, grappa and mostarda di rosa canina, a Christmassy condiment made from rosehip berries and winter spices. Go hungry – there are shallow-fried potato pancakes called tortel di patate to try, as well as polenta wedges, panettone and apple strudel (a nod to the city’s previous life as part of the Austro-Hungarian empire). Sit and eat awhile, enjoying (if you’re lucky) views of the snow-dusted Dolomites beyond the city. visittrentino.info Bilbao, Spain Traditional Basque products hog the limelight at Bilbao’s Santo Tomás Fair, held on December 21 every year (officially the first day of Christmas in this part of Spain). Buy homemade cider, cheese, chorizo, honey and ever-so-slightly-sparkling txakoli wine from local farmers, then hit the street-food stalls for corn flour tortillas, txistorra pork sausages and rosquillas – cake-like ring donuts, often dipped in chocolate and dusted in icing sugar. There’s always an exhibition of farm animals and plenty of live music to enjoy, including those from bertsolaris (singers of bertso, a Basque form of musical verse) and txalapartaris (they make rhythmic music using wooden sticks and planks). tourism.euskadi.eus Bologna, Italy The Fiera di Natale is Bologna’s biggest wintertime celebration, running right through until January 7. On New Year’s Eve, amidst the bustle of Piazza Maggiore’s street market, a statue of an old man (or an old woman on leap years) is burnt to symbolise the ousting of the old and beginning anew. Stalls are set out underneath the gaze of San Pietro Cathedral, selling ornate Christmas decorations, handmade nativity scenes, roast nuts, chocolate-dipped orange peel and torrone (citrus-scented nougat, studded with almonds). Plus you’ll discover Bologna’s version of panettone: a dense fruit cake made with brandy, dried figs and cocoa, then brushed with alchermes or saba liqueur (a sort of syrup made by slow-cooking wine in copper cauldrons). bolognawelcome.com Angers, France An illuminated ferris wheel, vintage merry-go-round, ice-skating rink and colourful light show (projected onto Angers Cathedral) makes this French market ideal for families. Even Santa Claus shows up each year, to receive the keys to the city from the Mayor of Angers. Stalls are set out on the Place du Ralliement in front of the Grand Theatre selling food and drink typical of the Loire Valley – pommes d’amour (like toffee apples, but coloured red), nougat, vin chaud, gingerbread houses and warm galettes – while the nearby Maison du Vin offers tastings and sales of 70 local Loire Valley wines until 6:30pm most evenings. Better still, at a corner kiosk, you can get any purchased gift-wrapped in pretty paper. marchedenoelangers.com Torun, Poland Head to the Polish city of Torun if you want to get your Christmas market fix away from the crowds. Warm nippy hands around firepits, drink mulled wine spiked with warm honey, watch old movies in the Market Square and snap a photo with a life-size nutcracker. Food-wise you can indulge in everything from dried sausages to oscypek, a smoked sheep’s milk cheese that’s served warm with cranberry sauce. Whatever you do, don’t miss the peppery gingerbread – Torun has been making it in traditional moulds since the 14th century. Buy beautiful, intricate examples of the craft, or simple heart-shaped gingerbread cookies filled with plum jam. You can even learn how to make your own during the Christmas period, at the Museum of Torun Gingerbread. jarmarktorun.pl/ Tallinn, Estonia Estonia's enchanting Christmas markets in Tallinn beckon as snow blankets the landscape. Dating back to 1441, when the Brotherhood of the Blackheads introduced the first Christmas tree to Tallinn's town square, this tradition continues to captivate. From 21 November - 28 December, Tallinn's medieval Old Town and Tartu host festive markets blending holiday cheer with Estonian charm. Discover over 100 stalls in the UNESCO Old Town, offering hand-knit woollens, crafted woodwork and festive decorations. Indulge in traditional Estonian treats like black pudding and sauerkraut, and savour the magic from 10am to 10pm daily – an unforgettable blend of history, tradition and holiday joy. visitestonia.com/en/tallinn-christmas-market Image credits: Getty Images More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best European mountain escapes to visit in 2025
Discover the best European mountain escapes to visit in 2025, from a relaxing treetop retreat in the Dolomites, to an ancient spa nestled in the Troodos mountains in Cyprus
Whether you're after a restorative getaway or want to go hiking surrounded by beautiful scenery, a holiday in the mountains offers the ultimate escape. Breathe in fresh mountain air, spot unique wildlife and soak up the views, surrounded by nature. From architectural hideouts in the Italian Dolomites and the forests of the Bavarian Alps, to an ecotourism getaway in Cyprus, Europe offers a wealth of luxury mountain escapes to visit – discover our picks below of the best mountain hotels that foodies will love. Looking for more travel inspiration? Read our guides to the best saunas to visit in the UK, the best Italian hotels for food lovers and 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting. Best European mountain escapes 2025 Forestis, Dolomites, Italy Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it My Arbor, South Tyrol, Italy Rooms from £206 per night based on two people sharing a Nest Suite; check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or My Arbor Expect to be whisked high above the clouds at this architectural hideout in the Dolomites. Conveniently situated just 50 minutes from Bolzano airport, My Arbor stands proud on stilts against the snow-capped South Tyrolean mountains, making this the perfect spot to experience treetop seclusion. Guests are greeted with the signature cocktail, The Arborene, with its warming blend of sweet vermouth and homemade orange-cinnamon liqueur, best enjoyed on the sun-kissed patio. The hotel has more than 100 south-facing suites, each adorned with reclaimed wood from sunburnt larches and firs from the Eisack Valley. Features include large panoramic windows, a private terrace and a cosy nook for hunkering down with a book. With most of the produce for the restaurant sourced directly from Lake Garda and harvested by owner Markus Huber, sustainability is more than just a concept here. The tasting menu changes daily and is often centred around a theme (think ‘essence of water’ or ‘nature’s delight’). Expect bold flavours, from swordfish tagliata with saffron risotto to onsen eggs with potato truffle espuma. The breakfast buffet is an assortment of local treats, including a juice bar for turmeric and ginger shots, eggs as you like them and homemade breads such as South Tyrolean schüttelbrot – a crunchy flatbread peppered with fragrant spices. Make sure you carve out time to experience an invigorating sauna infusion where the sauna master uses balls of snow enriched with essential oils to control the heat and deepen relaxation. Schloss Elmau, Bavarian Alps, Germany Rooms from £580 per night based on two people sharing; check availability at booking.com or Schloss Elmau Set against the backdrop of the Wetterstein mountains and framed by an abundant pine forest and the icy blue Ferchenbach river, it’s hard not to lose yourself in the scenery and facilities at Schloss Elmau. While staying here, guests can enjoy access to six spas, eight restaurants, a concert hall and two hotels (The Retreat and The Hideaway). The lofty presidential suites at The Retreat are softened with plush furnishings, with an Indian elephant motif woven into the textiles, and are designed to show off panoramic mountain views – take your pick between a luxurious free-standing bath or regal chaise longue to soak up the snowscapes. Restaurant Tutto Mondo offers twists on comforting Alpine cuisine, including homemade tagliolini blanketed in Piedmont truffles. At the neighbouring pan-Asian restaurant Fidelio, expect succulent meats grilled over binchōtan charcoal and paired with foamed nori butter. For those wanting a touch more luxury, opt for the two Michelin starred Ikigai. Breakfast is equally bountiful, with a selection of smoothies and health shots, creamy bircher muesli and homemade breads – including the well-loved German pumpernickel that’s ready to be topped with honey from Schloss Elmau’s bees. Start the day with a soothing golden milk – a silky, fragrant hot drink infused with turmeric, cinnamon and maple syrup. As well as its next-level food and drink options, Schloss Elmau boasts a programme of activities for guests, including yoga, qigong, curling, concerts and cross-country skiing. Ideal for switching off and hunkering down. Nordelaia, Piedmont, Italy Rooms from £261 per night; check availability at Mr & Mrs Smith, booking.com or Nordelaia This stunning property lies in rural Piedmont, a region suspended between the mighty Alps and the coastal province of Liguria in north-west Italy. Occupying an 800- year-old converted farmhouse, the interiors of Nordelaia’s 12 rooms are both contemporary and classic. Two attic suites – all warm wood beams and pleasing oblique angles – evoke a sense of treetop seclusion, complete with freestanding baths for an extra dose of opulence. The four rooms on the first floor are themed around the striking seasonal colour palettes that surround the property: greens in the spring, yellows for summer, fiery reds in the autumn and pearly whites in winter. Two outdoor pools (one heated, one not, but both with views for miles) entice in all seasons, while a visit to the spa, with its stone floors and arches, and barrel-vaulted brick ceiling, is sure to restore a sense of internal equilibrium. Nordelaia is set within five hectares of arable land and boasts a working vineyard. Its offerings feature prominently on the wine list at the hotel’s destination restaurant, Lorto. Here, chef Charles Pearce pays homage both to the earthy, woodland character of Piedmont and the maritime bounty of neighbouring Liguria. His take on perbureira – a thick, bean-based sauce traditionally served with pasta – is instead paired with grilled prawns and a coral emulsion. There’s a potato risotto with mussels that hits all the right notes, and a tangle of barbecued oyster mushrooms served with a deeply savoury, anchovy-based ferment called garum. A bistro menu that leans towards traditional flavours with modern touches offers guests a more relaxed but no less excellent dining experience. Priesteregg, Leogang, Austria Berg chalet from £280 per person per night based on two people sharing, including breakfast and spa access; check availability at Priesteregg Surrounded by the snow-dusted Alps, this collection of 15 wooden chalets is reminiscent of a mountain village. Sitting at a height of 1,100 metres there are panoramic views with fresh Alpine air and the aroma of woodsmoke to greet you on arrival. The focus is on traditional local food using highquality ingredients – bread is freshly baked in a stone oven, bacon is smoked in a smoking chamber and the local cows provide the creamiest milk and butter. Each chalet is generously stocked with local treats and every morning guests are delivered breakfast bundles of cured meats, salmon, cheeses, fresh fruits and baked goods. In the evening you can request to dine in your chalet or bundle up and walk to Huwi’s Alm, the on-site restaurant. The signature dish is an event in itself, served on an iron hat that’s heated by small burners. Diners are given a selection of marinated organic steaks and pork loin to cook, with the brim of the hat filled with a rich beef and vegetable soup that gets more intense as the cooking continues. It’s served with crisp baked potatoes, salad and a selection of sauces. Chalets are a combination of beautiful natural materials and modern luxuries. Glass-fronted bedrooms, mountain views, freestanding outdoor baths, suspended fireplaces, private saunas and snow-clad rooftop hot tubs are just some of the unique features. Sheepskin rugs, cosy sofas and the softest bedding make it hard to leave the comfort of your chalet, despite the ski slopes across the valley being in sight of the sun decks. Wellness is taken very seriously here, too – guests can swim in the heated infinity pool next to an open fireplace, relax in Swiss pine saunas or take an invigorating guided dip in the unheated outdoor nature pool. The expansive open-air terrace has luxurious loungers, pillows and blankets to make the most of the winter sun. Casale Panayiotis, Cyprus From £286 based on a two-night stay for two adults in a comfort studio; check availability at booking.com, Hilton or Casale Panayiotis Nestled in the heart of the Troodos Mountains, the climate is noticeably cooler at Casale Panayiotis than down by the Cyprus coast. An agrotourism project saved Kalopanayiotis village from extinction nearly 13 years ago, restoring the historical buildings to their former glory in the form of 29 beautiful rooms and stone cottage suites. The award-winning spa complete with hydrotherapy pool, sauna, herbal steam room and private outdoor whirlpool harks back to the village’s ancient spa origins. Restaurants celebrate local ingredients, including seasonal fruit and veg from the on-site orchards. Byzantino Restaurant spotlights traditional Cypriot dishes, while Pantheon offers casual dining among magnificent mountain views. Grill restaurant Loutraki serves pan-seared, locally sourced trout, premium fillet steak and chicken breast ballotine. Local cultural, culinary and sporting activities are available to be booked for those seeking adventure and new experiences. Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, Switzerland Water is the stuff of life at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz where a special supply trickles down from Tamina Gorge in the Swiss Alps. It fills several pools at the Tamina Spa, an impressive indoor-outdoor omplex, to warmly envelop guests against a stunning backdrop of snowcapped mountains. Earn that soothing dip by striking out into the lush ‘Heidiland’valley. Follow wooded paths stretching out alongside the mighty Rhine or rent an e-bike to explore longer routes through villages and the Bündner Herrschaft vineyards. On Fridays there are tastings in the hotel’s own wine gallery, and there’s art to drink in, too. Martin Creed’s neon roof installation (assuring guests “everything will be alright”) echoes a harmonious balance between old world grandeur and a sharp, contemporary aesthetic. Among seven restaurants, there’s three-Michelin-starred Memories by Sven (Wassmer) for while Verve by Sven (one Michelin star) delivers precise, elegant treatment of local produce, such as braised veal cheek and gleamingly fresh cured alpine salmon. Tuck into heartier alpine fare – stews and signature fondues – at Zollstube, in rustic lodge-style surroundings. As much as you indulge, the alpine air – and something in the water – ensures you’ll leave feeling utterly refreshed. Doubles start from £296 based on two sharing, check availability at resortragaz.ch Related content Best hotels in Wales Best UK islands for food lovers European hidden gem hotels 10 best European hotels with Michelin starred restaurants Best day trips from London by train Best seaside staycations Best restaurants in St Albans Best new restaurants in the UK
Why I love the South Tyrol, Italy's unique alpine region
Local chefs Roland Lamprecht and Florian Fink share what makes the cuisine of this Austro-Italian alpine region (also known as Alto Adige) unique
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of this northern region of Italy so special from local chefs Roland Lamprecht and Florian Fink. From festive traditions to local pasta dishes and excellent wines, there is plenty for foodies to enjoy. Plus, we share some of the top places to eat in the region and our picks of the best places to stay. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, the Algarve in Portugal, Cork in Ireland or Istria in Croatia. Jump to: Where to eat and drink in South Tyrol Where to stay in South Tyrol South Tyrol cuisine: 10 things we love Austro-Italian culture The region’s difficult recent history is now embraced in a fusion of Austrian and Italian cuisines and culture. Historically the South Tyrolean kitchen is German-Austrian, featuring the likes of dumplings, veal schnitzel and kaiserschmarrn, but the Italians have added elegance, plus fish, vegetables, olive oil and salt. The two cultures – along with the Mediterranean and mountain climates – are now very much intertwined, to the extent that all towns have both an Austrian and Italian name. Speck While many cured meats are popular in South Tyrol, speck is the most popular (previously smoked venison). This air-dried, cold-smoked ham is lightly spiced and encased in a juniper crust. PGI-protected farmhouse bauernspeck is made only with the highest-quality meat and has a higher ratio of nutty marbled fat that melts on the tongue. Its red and white colour reflects the Tyrolean flag, and it’s a signature ingredient in countless dishes. Törggelen Celebrated following the grape harvest in late September or early October, and running through the end of November, Törggelen, the region’s ‘fifth season’, is a culinary trademark. It’s a time when Alpine huts and farmhouses throw open their doors for tastings of freshly pressed wine (grape must), alongside roasted chestnuts, large feasts (featuring schlachtplatte meat plates), folk tales and merriment. Knödel dumplings There are more than 20 types of regional dough dumplings, from rustic buckwheat to those flecked with spinach and herbs, and even sweet varieties made with apricot or plum. It’s a versatile dish, served as a soup garnish, main or side, that reflects our rich agricultural traditions inherited from generations past. Venison We use a lot of game meat, particularly venison, as it is abundant in the forests and includes roe deer and chamois. There’s also hare and wildfowl. The meat is naturally lean and healthy, and can be enjoyed in a variety of ways – braised, raw or roasted – always offering that distinct game flavour. Festive sweet treats Zelten is a traditional sweet bread flecked with dried fruit, nuts and spices. It’s a hybrid of Italy’s panettone and Austria’s stollen. We usually come together as a family to prepare it around 1 December then take it along to gatherings through the festive season. Other popular regional treats are krapfen (chewy doughnuts usually filled with apricot jam), apfelküchlein (apple fritters) and knieküchle (deep-fried dough with a thin middle and thicker edges). Christmas traditions South Tyrol is very religious, so Christmas is an important holiday. We mark Christmas Eve with soup and bread, and usually the 25th involves a centrepiece of braised venison or fillet of roast beef served with potatoes, red cabbage and herb dumplings to soak up the jus. Many traditional households celebrate with a bauernbratl (farmer’s roast) of pork belly or ribs in a caraway seed marinade. Pasta dishes The contemporary Italian influence is evident in the likes of ravioli filled with spinach and mountain cheese, tagliatelle with venison ragu and mountain herb pesto stirred through spaghetti. The most traditional regional speciality is schlutzkrapfen – ravioli-like pasta pockets, often filled with porcini mushrooms. Wine South Tyrolean wines have a great reputation, dating back hundreds of years thanks to wine-making traditions in the monasteries. The Eisack Valley makes the most of warm days and cold nights, which results in excellent fresh white and sparkling varieties. Merano and Bolzano, in the south of the region, benefit instead from warmer climates for elegant reds. Ladin culture A unique combination of German and Latin, this small Alpine community is one rooted in folklore and ancient traditions. The Ladin communities live in two valleys in the heart of the Dolomites: Val Gardena and Alta Badia. Signature dishes include ravioli-like cajinci, panicia barley soup and sweet grappa-infused furtaies (‘funnel cakes’), traditionally served to celebrate wedding engagements. Where to eat and drink in South Tyrol Finsterwirt and Vitis, Brixen Though housed in one of the oldest buildings in town, enveloped in wood panelling and stained glass, the tucked-away Finsterwirt restaurant serves creative contemporary plates, such as veal with salsa verde, Eisack Valley wine soup and duck leg with potato rösti and orange jus. Adjoining wine bar Vitis is home to 500 wines, many of which are local and best sipped by the stone fountain in the leafy courtyard. adlerbrixen.com Toma Spirit & Winebar, Bolzano Local duo Tobias and Marian’s compact but well-stocked wine bar is a great spot to soak up Bolzano’s bustling vibe while tasting some of the region’s finest wines by the glass, from Appiano’s sparkling elegant pinot bianco, to cabernet franc grown on the slopes above Lake Caldaro. instagram.com/toma.bozen Wirtshaus Vögele, Bolzano This traditional inn was an ancient meeting spot for poets, philosophers and intellectuals, and has wood-panelled walls that provide cosy surrounds for South Tyrolean classics such as spinach ravioli with bacon butter, wiener schnitzel, apple strudel and kaiserschmarrn. voegele.it Apollonia, Sirmiano Perched in the hills up a winding road above Bolzano, this Alpine guesthouse serves cuisine from Alto Adige and dramatic views of the Dolomites. Most ingredients are locally foraged or grown on site to create spicy beef goulash with speck dumplings, Passeier Valley char fillet with herby sweet potato cream and affogato doused in homemade nut liqueur. apollonia.it Decantei, Brixen Set in a cloistered courtyard, this is an atmospheric spot to try hearty South Tyrolean dishes – a colourful trio of knödel dumplings, pumpkin-topped ravioli and deep-fried puffed potato dough blattln with sauerkraut – alongside a wide selection of craft beers. decantei.it Where to stay in South Tyrol Forestis, Plose At 1,800m above sea level, surrounded by panoramic views of the Dolomites, this unique property embraces its original intention as a climate spa for Austrian monarchy. Split between the original 1912 larchwood building and three modern towers, everything is designed to bring the landscape in – floor-to-ceiling windows allow the sun to dance around pinewood suites, bathrooms are made from Dolomites stone and two-level penthouses sit at the tip of two of the towers. Wellbeing is at the hotel’s heart – there’s Plose spring water sweetened with pine syrup on arrival, plus the spa’s successive indoor-outdoor mineral pools and saunas, daily rituals and a wyda studio (a local Celtic version of yoga). Mountain activities include ski-in, ski-out facilities as well as forest bathing and foraging. In the main restaurant, individual booths are arranged in an amphitheatre-like structure, allowing for prime views while you enjoy Roland Lamprecht’s forest cuisine. This is also where breakfast is served – a buffet featuring pretzels, chocolate caprese, ricotta cake, pistachio cream, Eisack Valley honeycomb and wild berry jams. There’s also speck, mountain cheeses, foraged fruits, a salad bar and DIY juice room with bottled mountain apple juice ready to drink. An evening at new restaurant concept Yera is an experience like no other – follow a torch through the forest into an earthy mountain cave, hand in phones at the door and let Roland and his team guide you through an immersive spectacle of fire, ferments and ancient Celtic traditions. A nightcap at the bar might be a fresh fig old fashioned, apricot-enriched Plosestar martini or negronis infused with Plose cranberries for added fruitiness. forestis.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Fink, Brixen Nestled in the arcades of one of Brixen’s oldest monastery townhouses, this boutique hotel has been passed down through four generations. Husband-and-wife owners Petra and Florian Fink have a deep respect for the 1450s building, creating an intentionally minimalist feel to allow original features to shine in the nine suites – thick stone walls left bare, restored ceiling frescoes decorating cosy window seats and the terrazzo flooring flecked with South Tyrolean stone. A compact vaulted spa awaits behind an ancient wooden door, its central stone plunge pool ideal for cooling down after sessions in the sauna, steam room and Roman bath outhouse. Choose to dine in the chic vaulted restaurant or outside beneath the arcade’s graceful curves. Florian curates produce from 50 local farmers – most specialising in a single ingredient – for his fresh, simple, zero-waste monastery kitchen style. The main menu is vegetarian and includes clever alternatives, such as root veg tartare, tagliolini with red cabbage cream and black truffle, and organic grain ravioli filled with chanterelles and mountain cheese. Meat and fish options are succinct and include local game and freshwater fish, from lake trout fillet to venison stew with beetroot dumplings, and veal schnitzel with lingonberry sauce. Sweet plum dumplings come with black beer ice cream, while three South Tyrolean apple varieties are showcased in a tartlet with ricotta and caramel sauce. An elegant breakfast kicks off with a soothing herb broth followed by fresh juices and fruit salads, crudités to dunk into herb ricotta and compotes to spread over warm croissants and breads, plus made-to-order spelt pancakes and crisp buckwheat waffles. fink1896.it Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
Looking for places to visit in Greece? Check out our top Greek food trips and discover where to eat and drink across the country
Looking for places to visit in Greece? Check out our top Greek food trips and discover where to eat and drink across the country, from eating souvlaki surrounded by history in Athens to island escapes on Crete, Sifnos and Ithaca. Discover more of the Greek islands with our guide to the best Greek islands, along with plenty of Greek hotel recommendations. For more travel inspiration, check out our best Portuguese food trips, best Spanish food trips and best French food trips. If you love an island getaway, we've got the 10 best Mediterranean islands for foodies to visit. Best Greek trips Athens From bougatsa with cinnamon sugar and the locals' favourite souvlaki, to aromatic Greek wines by the glass, try all these and more in the Greek capital – there's plenty of food to discover in between cultural exploration. Souvlaki – marinated meat grilled on skewers, sometimes served in pitta bread – is the fast food of choice for most Greeks. Around since the 1950s, O Kostas is one of the best places to try it in Athens (join the queue at this hole-in-the-wall for a truly authentic gyros experience; there’s no website but you’ll find it at Pentelis 5, near Syntagma Square). Or, for an updated (albeit smaller) version, make your way to Hoocut (“butcher’s cut”), where a group of enterprising young chefs has put an artisanal spin on the dish, using carefully sourced pork, chicken, lamb and beef and serving a vegetarian version, too. Home to a famous flea market and several scenic (if tourist-heavy) ancient landmarks, the Monastiraki neighbourhood is a must-visit. Here, Café Avissinia’s artful mish-mash of blowsy wallpaper, marble-topped tables, antiques and picture-strung walls proves the perfect backdrop to its homely mix of traditional bistro-style cooking. In true Greek style, it’s a place to casually pop in to at any time of day, with a menu that covers the whole country but is marginally skewed towards Macedonian cuisine: try the stuffed sour cabbage with pork, or cheese-filled baked potatoes. Where to stay: At the centre of ERGON House’s double-height agora (gathering place) there’s a silvery, 200-year-old olive tree. It’s just one of the highlights at this hotel, restaurant and market. At breakfast you can sample traditional sweet or savoury pies called bougatsa, while the all-day dining menu includes Greek meze, pasta, fish and meat. There are also cookery classes on offer and, if hotel guests want to cook what they buy at the market – which sells everything from local fish to herbs (ERGON’s owners also run a string of delis) – there are communal kitchens available. Doubles from £204, check availability at booking.com Crete Greece’s largest island, food is the language of love for Crete. Set across mountain and sea, while drenched in year-round sun and carpeted in olive groves, it is an abundant natural larder of fish, meat, vegetables — Cretan horta (wild greens) are the best — fruit, honey and, of course, the finest extra virgin olive oil. The original Cretan capital and, today, its second largest city, Chania is charmingly low-key, the old town’s narrow streets tumbling down to a picturesque Venetian harbour. Its chequered history is still visible in its Minoan ruins, old city walls, Venetian lighthouse and Turkish quarter, but the harbour is now lined with fish restaurants and tavernas, while 16th-century Venetian townhouses converted into chic boutique hotels hide down little backstreets. The grand covered market hall, built in the shape of a cross at the beginning of the 20th century and modelled on the market in Marseilles, has butchers’ stalls in one arcade, fishmongers in another and speciality food stores stocked with salted sardines, glistening olives and golden oils, cheeses and charcuterie. It’s open throughout the week, but on Saturdays there’s also an open-air farmers’ market nearby. Where to stay: Set amid chestnut trees with the rugged mountainous beauty of the Kissamos region as a backdrop, Milia is a beautifully renovated collection of 15th-century stone buildings. All rooms have thick stone walls and their own fireplaces, making it perfect for cosy off-season stays, and the retreat is surrounded by an extensive network of hiking trails. The restaurant serves traditional Cretan “humble gastronomy”, such as wild greens soup and grilled aubergine spread, as well as roast baby goat, lamb with herbs and boureki courgette pot pie cooked in a wood stove. Every Wednesday, guests can join a four-hour traditional Cretan cooking session in the kitchen. Doubles from £75, check availability at milia.gr Sifnos Known as the Cycladic island of gastronomy, Sifnos is the birthplace of renowned 20th century Greek chef Nikos Tselementes, whose cookery book is still the home-cooking bible for Greeks. While on the island, you must taste two of its most traditional dishes: revithada, a slow-cooked chickpea soup with onion, garlic and bay leaves; and mastelo, lamb cooked slowly with dill and wine in one of the ceramic pots that Sifnos is synonymous with. In recent years, Sifnos has begun to draw an elegant crowd with its contemporary restaurants, notably Cantina, which perches above the water in the shadow of Kastro, the ancient capital of the island, and its new sister restaurant Pelicanos, a reimagined waterside taverna in Faros. Omega 3 is a trendy but unpretentious seafood bar: order sharing plates of taramasalata and various raw fish dishes and accompany your meal with a bottle of fresh, crisp white (ideally a malagousia). Where to stay on Sifnos: The place to stay is Verina Astra, a boutique hotel just above the idyllic swimming spot of Poulati, which opens a second restaurant in the port of Kamares this June. Doubles at Verina Astra from £349 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Peloponnese Discover the scenic Peloponnese peninsula, a region with strong Mediterranean flavours and rich culinary traditions. Olive fans should visit the coastal town of Kalamata to try the famous black olives in their namesake town. Further south, the rugged Mani Peninsula has more to explore, from the stone village of Areopoli filled with unpretentious tavernas, to fortified medieval town Monemvasia which clings to a rock off the coast. You can dine on seafood and local specialties inside the castle walls at Chrisovoulo. Charming Nafplio is another town worth visiting - a vibrant seafront destination full of neoclassical architecture and culinary delights. The Peloponnese makes for a great road trip – discover this and more in our 10 unmissable road trips for food lovers. Kefalonia A Greek island that feels unspoilt but is easy to get to. Pretty towns to explore and stunning beaches to relax on. Local specialities to discover in charming restaurants. Kefalonia ticks all the boxes of what we're looking for in a Greek island getaway. You can fly direct from several UK airports and you'll be transported to rolling hills, lush greenery, dramatic cliffs and sparkling blue sea. Myrtos Beach has been voted one of the best beaches in the world so is a must-visit for white sand sandwiched in between dramatic cliffs. Stop for fresh juices and sandwiches at Myrtillo at the top of the cliff before heading down. Hire a car to drive further along the stunning cliff road and spend time in the pretty villages of Fiskardo and Assos – ideal locations for a long lunch overlooking the water. Where to stay: Eliamos is an all-villa hotel that blends privacy with five-star hotel luxury. Designed to feel like a home away from home, 12 secluded villas are set on the hillside, divided by lavender-lined paths to create a village atmosphere. Expect high ceilings and open beams, generous bathrooms with olive oil toiletries to use in waterfall showers and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors opening onto private terraces with saltwater pools that boast uninterrupted views over the Ionian Sea. Wake up early to watch the sunrise from the breakfast terrace. The à la carte menu includes a range of egg dishes and avocado on toast variations, along with Greek specialities such as bougatsa thessalonikis (vanilla cream and cinnamon filled pastries), fresh pita and pancakes with local honey and apricot jam. The terrace is also where lunch and dinner are served: don't miss the traditional tomato fritters, a must-try that you'll want to order on repeat. When you're not relaxing by the pool, you can hire e-bikes to explore the island, have an in-room massage, take a cooking class or hit the outdoor gym. From £650, check rates and availability at eliamos.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Ithaca Visit this peaceful Ionian island to beach-hop by boat, swim in dazzling cobalt waters and graze your way through meltingly soft feta, local olives, just-caught fish and note-perfect lemon tart. There are plenty of food shops in Stavros, from a greengrocers and a fishmongers to a basic supermarket but don’t miss the shop marked 'General Store’ – the last small family-owned grocery on the island, it’s been operating since 1930 and still has beautiful old wooden cabinets towering all the way around its walls. Also in Stavros, cheerful orange-hued Cafe Margarita is the centre of local village life, in no small part thanks to owner Maria’s renowned baking skills. There are normally spinach and cheese pies on offer and, occasionally, a delicious courgette quiche but she’s also known for her rovani – local cake made with ground rice, olive oil and honey. Visit Frikes, a postcard-perfect arc of painted houses overlooking glitteringly clear water. There are plenty of cafes to choose from here but only the seriously steel-willed could miss Dodoni, the ice cream parlour. Just beware that it’s addictively good. Check out our full guide to Ithaca for more recommendations. Where to stay: stay at the Levendis Estate. Run with great care by an Aussie-Greek couple, Spero and Marilyn Raftopulos plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko, this collection of four cottages plus a swimming pool is set on Spero’s family homestead, overlooking a bay in the north of the island. Cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner, plus supplies for breakfast. You can easily stay within the Levendis gates – happy to swim in the pool and snooze in the cottage garden (each one has cleverly been designed for ultimate privacy) – or you could amble down to one of two little coves around 10-20 minutes’ walk away, the routes thrumming with butterflies and the sound of goat bells as you make your way past olive and cypress trees. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com. Spetses The name Spetses derives from an ancient Greek word that reflects the pine trees that blanket much of the island. But the Venetians also christened the island “Spezia” as it was on a major spice route, floating in the Saronic Gulf between mainland Greece and the Peloponnese. During the Greek war of Independence from Turkey, in 1821, the island played a pivotal role. Today, however, it’s a tranquil, Hellenic version of the Hamptons, albeit slightly more low-key, where some of Greece’s wealthiest dynasties come to play attracted by its verdant charm (its interior is laced with walking trails) and by quiet coves and beaches like Ligoneri Vrellas and Agioi Anargyroi. Food-wise, it's the classics that win out here: grilled octopus with parsley pesto and lobster spaghetti at taverna Patralis. Don't leave the island without sampling or buying a box of the orange blossom-scented, sugar-dusted chewy almond cookies called amygdalota. Where to stay: In the Old Harbour, the former port authority building has been sensitively restored to house the Orloff Resort. Doubles cost from £141, check availability at booking.com Rhodes Known for its ancient ruins, medieval old town and sun-drenched coastline, Rhodes is ideal for those seeking a historic retreat with exceptional food. Once home to the Colossus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the island’s Ottoman, Italian and maritime influences are clear in both the architecture and fare. For seafood lovers, Limanaki Restaurant in Kolymbia is a must – simple grilled catch of the day (choose your own fresh from the counter) is drizzled with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. For something a little less traditional, beach-front Ronda in the old town offers a stellar sushi selection and cocktails perfect for golden-hour sipping. Sweet cravings are best satisfied at Gelateria Palladion in the old town – once voted Greece’s best – the Italian-influenced architecture of the town square making it the ideal place to enjoy a scoop or two. Or cool down with local frozen yogurt at one of the many cafés housed in the signature whitewashed buildings of Lindos after an ascent up its clifftop acropolis. Where to stay in Rhodes: For a modern, laid-back stay, Casa Cook Rhodes is a stylish boho-chic adults-only retreat backed by mountains. Its two restaurants serve thoughtfully prepared dishes – expect all the meze classics like creamy taramasalata, tzatziki and hummus with warm pita or grilled souvlaki and gyros, with vegetarian options throughout. Breakfasts here are a standout: local honey drizzled over thick yogurt, scrambled eggs with salmon and a daily rotating smoothie selection. Don’t miss a chilled freddo coffee before heading off to explore. Come evening, the beach bar pulses with laid-back DJ sets, the ideal backdrop to sip on sweet local Rhodian melitio wine. While you’re there, hike up to hilltop Tsambika Monastery for panoramic views of the Med and you might even spot a goat or two. Doubles from €209 per night, check availability at casacook.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk Thessaloniki Want to explore more of the Greek mainland? Thessaloniki is Greece's second-biggest city and has plenty to offer foodies. It was the country’s first City of Gastronomy in 2021 and has a diverse cuisine influenced by its varied history from the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. Spend time in Ladadika, the historic waterfront district with pretty cobbled streets to explore, lined with colourful pastel-painted buildings and filled with tavernas, restaurants and cafes. Try local produce at the covered Modiano market and visit one of Thessaloniki's oldest bakeries, Koukos, for lunch for the famous cheese pie – a feta-filled slab of flaky filo pastry. As Thessaloniki sits on the coast, it's great for fresh fish and seafood lovers; 7 Thalasses offers simple grilled or fried fish dishes or try something unique at Mourga for the regularly changing menu based around the best fish available. Where to stay in Thessaloniki: ON Residence sits right on Thessaloniki's seafront. The elegant hotel exudes a slick, art deco vibe, retaining many original features from its 1920s-era construction from chequered black and white floor tiles to intricate ceiling mouldings. The interiors of the 60 rooms are understated but chic, with pearl grey walls and snowy white bed linen contrasting with rich, jewel-coloured velvet furniture. On-site restaurant, Olympos Naoussa, serves up a buffet-style breakfast in tastefully plush surrounds; pile your plate with anything from local cheeses to hot egg dishes and bougatsa, a traditional sweet custard pastry dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. Doubles from £150, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.com or hilton.com Folegandros If you want to escape the crowds of well known Greek islands like Santorini or Mykonos, add Folegandros to your wishlist instead. It is one of the lesser known Cyclades islands with a population under 1,000, no airport and one road. It's the perfect destination to switch off, slow down and simply soak up the views of the Aegean Sea. The limited phone signal should help. Visit the traditional Cycladic town of Chora, take a boat trip round the island and swim at Katergo and Livadaki beaches. For dinner, head to the main square to Kritikos. Order matsata as an accompaniment to rabbit stew, tomato-stewed rooster or kontosouvli (pork roasted on a large spit) and wash it down with the house wine. The remote taverna Papalagi offers spectacular views for a memorable meal. Where to stay in Folegandros: The opening of Gundari in 2024 helped put Folegandros on the map. This five-star eco-friendly resort is the pinnacle of sustainable luxury. Its 29 suites and villas are bio-climatically designed, using solar energy to minimise energy use, kitted in natural colours and with private pools. The cliff-edge pool with swim-up cocktail bar is as dreamy as it sounds, as is the subterranean sea view spa. The resort's own organic farm provides produce and restaurants are helmed by Greece’s first Michelin-star chef, Lefteris Lazarou, serving dishes such as squid with basil pesto, seabass carpaccio and Cycladic salad with local souroto cheese. gundari.com Doubles from £394; check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Ikaria This tiny, rugged island in the north Aegean region is renowned for longevity and a zest for life and featured as one of the Blue Zones in the Netflix series by Dan Buettner. Come to soak up the sunshine and embrace a slower pace of life. Ikaria has brilliant beaches to offer: visit Seychelles or Nas beach for super white sand and clear blue seas. The island is also home to several thermal springs that claim to reduce stress and anxiety and promote relaxation. For the more active, the island is dotted with hiking trails and 37 saves to explore. Where to stay in Ikaria: Cavos Bay Hotel & Studios has a traditional architectural style and is located on the north coast of Ikaria overlooking the stunning Armenistis Bay. Low-key and locally owned, the property oozes Greek charm and has two pools, but is also just a short stroll from a sandy beach. Doubles from £63, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels