British food, so long disdained, is big news in Paris’s coolest quarters. Some venues were launched by Brits, like the pioneering Rose Bakery, an organic café in the 9th arrondissement celebrated for its carrot cake, €5.50 (46 Rue des Martyrs). Others are French-owned, such as Beef Club in the 2nd, where there’s a Bordeaux-heavy wine list to do justice to a burger with red Leicester and ogleshield (€23), or entrecôte (€36) raised in Yorkshire by Tim Wilson from Yorkshire’s Ginger Pig.
Frenchie To Go is a humble takeaway opposite the high-end neo-bistro Frenchie. It attracts a largely Parisian clientèle who visit for the scones (served with kumquat jam, €6). The Sunken Chip, appropriately located at 39 Rue des Vinaigriers, is clad in white tiles and formica and is uncannily faithful to the classic fish-and-chip shop, right down to Sarson’s vinegar, mushy peas and Kate-and-Wills mugs for your English breakfast tea (fish and chips, €14).
At Le Bal Café, a fashionable spot near the Place de Clichy, are Anna Trattles (formerly at London’s St John restaurant), and half-English Alice Quillet, who share a love of pies, offal and pickled walnuts. ‘We wanted to bring something new to Paris,’ says Anna, who puts on occasional weekend pop-ups with visiting English chefs, including Lee Tiernan, formally of St John Bread and Wine, and Pitt Cue’s Tommy Adams. You’ll find excellent kedgeree (€13), and bacon and eggs (€12), alongside Luscombe Farm ginger beer, and proper tea from a Brown Betty teapot. Crucially, though, all the produce is French (that would be a sacrilege too far), and the sourdough bread is from Poujauran, one of the most revered bakeries in Paris.
HOW TO DO IT: Return London-Paris fares on Eurostar from £69. Double rooms at chic guesthouse Eliel cost from €170, B&B.
Written September 2014