Why I love Vancouver, Canada's relaxed star of the west coast
On the west coast of Canada, the relaxed city of Vancouver has plenty to offer for a gourmet getaway
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of Vancouver so special. From craft beer and chocolate to foraging and wild salmon, there's plenty for foodies to enjoy. Plus, we share where to eat and where to stay whilst you're in Vancouver. For more deep-dives into global cuisines, check out our guides to Grenada, South Africa and Mumbai. Jump to: 10 things we love about Vancouver Where to eat and drink in Vancouver Where to stay in Vancouver 10 things I love about Vancouver Angus An, owner and head chef at Maenam restaurant in Vancouver, shares the seasonal, relaxed eating that this west coast Canadian city has to offer. The produce Vancouver has four distinct seasons, so there’s real seasonality for produce. In the spring we have fiddleheads, elderflowers and nettles, and in the summer we have a bounty of different types of tomatoes – from Sungold to Heritage – and the markets are bursting with local berries. In autumn there’s an abundance of wild mushrooms and squashes. Vancouverites celebrate this seasonality not only in the restaurant scene but at home, too. Foraging Vancouverites love to get away to the wilderness at any opportunity and, as it’s right on our doorstep, it’s so easy to do. In the mountains you can often find a variety of wild mushrooms – my favourite is the Matsutake mushrooms, which are prized in Japanese cuisine but grow abundantly in our pine forests. This comes through in their flavour, as they are woodsy and almost spicy, which pairs perfectly with the Thai food in my restaurant Maenam. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2025/08/Foraging-GettyImages2183737892-copy-c51ca02.jpg" width="6691" height="4463" alt="Squamish, BC, Canada - November 07, 2024: A woman searches for wild mushrooms in a rainforest near Squamish, British Columbia, on Nov. 7, 2024. The region’s damp, temperate climate creates ideal conditions for foraging a variety of edible fungi such as Chanterelle mushrooms." title="Forager Hunts Wild Mushrooms in Lush Rainforest Near Squamish, B.C." /> Community No matter which area of Vancouver you live in, there’s a real sense of community among the residents. This is especially true among chefs and anyone in the restaurant scene, where we often go through the ranks and earn our stripes together. The scene is very close-knit and, if you don’t know someone directly, often another colleague will. There’s a real sense of camaraderie among chefs and it’s not unusual to see them joining together for collaboration dinners and experiences, leaning on each other for expertise or eating at other restaurants with great gusto. Asian food Vancouver is well known for its variety of cuisines, especially Asian options. On Robson Street in downtown, you can slurp many bowls of authentic ramen and enjoy amazing Korean fried chicken. Vancouver was also once the sushi capital of North America, with everything from casual places to Michelin-starred omakase destinations, such as Tojo’s. Vancouver is also home to a vast Chinese population and the largest Chinatown in Canada. As such we are lucky to enjoy a huge array of Chinese food, from casual barbecue, such as HK BBQ Master in Richmond, to contemporary Chinese dining at internationally acclaimed Mott 32 – we have it all! Craft beer We have a fantastic independent craft beer scene – Mount Pleasant is a great area to start with, as you’ve got Brassneck Brewery, 33 Acres and Main Street Brewing. Brassneck Brewery has been open since 2013 and offers a wide range of beers, from hazy IPAs and pilsners to dark ales. The tasting room at Brassneck is wrapped around the brew house and cellar, with a shop on site to pick up beers for later. If you’re over in East Vancouver, check out Powell Brewery, Superflux and East Vancouver Brewing Co. People are known to do a mini craft beer crawl around the city on foot so they can experience all these great places. Seafood As Vancouver is on the Pacific coast, we have some of the freshest seafood in the world. With albacore tuna, ling cod, halibut, Dungeness crab, geoduck and sea urchin, there’s a lot of variety to enjoy in restaurants across Vancouver. Or pick some up at the local Granville Market to make yourself. Both geoduck and sea urchin (called uni in Japanese) are considered delicacies in Chinese and Japanese cuisines but can now widely be found in western cooking – it’s great to see that influence coming through. You can also forage the Pacific coastlines for seaweed, sea urchins, crab and sea cucumbers. Granville Island Public Market There is nothing more quintessentially Vancouver than a visit to the Granville Island Public Market. There’s so much to see and try but it does get crowded, so go early. All the local produce is stacked and presented beautifully. Try tastings from Oyama Sausage Co, Armando’s Finest Quality Meats, Bon Macaron Patisserie, Benton Brothers Fine Cheese and Hobbs Pickles. After a bit of shopping you can also have a seat and order food from A La Mode for pie, Chau Veggie Express for Vietnamese, Kaisereck Deli for perogies or Sen Pad Thai for Thai. Just outside is also Popina Canteen – a great place for lunch after a shop. One tip: be careful of the very friendly seagulls when enjoying your meal outside – they are very bold and will snap that croissant out of your hand in no time. The salmon British Columbia is home to five wild varieties of salmon. In the autumn they migrate back to their native waters for the famous salmon run, which is a sight to behold. Sockeye salmon, with its deep red orange flesh, is a BC delicacy found in restaurants throughout the city. You can visit the Capilano River Hatchery along the Capilano River on the North Shore to watch the salmon run in person and learn more about the salmon life cycle. Non-alcoholic drinks There’s been a big surge in popularity for non-alcoholic cocktails and drink alternatives in Vancouver, so now many bars, lounges and restaurants offer a selection completely dedicated to zero-proof options. It’s not only about flavoured soda anymore, either – bartenders are taking the same amount of care in creating non-alcoholic options as they would for their alcoholic counterparts. Check out The Drive Canteen on Commercial Drive for an abundance of non-alcoholic beers, wines and spirits. Or try one of Chinatown’s newest cocktail bars, Meo, for a cosmo fizz made with beet shrub. Chocolate The Nanaimo bar – a no-bake treat featuring a coconut crumb base, custard filling and chocolate ganache – is famously associated with British Columbia, and for good reason. Try Northern Bars’ version – you can find a stall at Granville Island Public Market, or throughout Vancouver. Stop in at Thierry Chocolates’ café, run by chef Thierry Busset, an artisan chocolatier and patissier, to gawk at its beautiful displays of shining, perfect chocolates and pick up a box for someone back home. 5 places to eat and drink in Vancouver Burdock & Co Burdock & Co presents the best of BC, using local growers, fishers, farmers and foragers to stock its restaurant. The set menu changes monthly, usually highlighting a specific ingredient for a thoughtfully curated, down-to-earth, special experience. The wine list, too, has been carefully selected to include responsibly sourced wines, local craft beers and cocktails. burdockandco.com Tojo’s This isn’t your typical Japanese restaurant – here you’ll find the inventor of the California roll, Hidekazu Tojo. Hidekazu loves to celebrate local ingredients by making creative new dishes with them, incorporating many different flavours into Japanese fine dining. Take a seat at the bar and watch the master at work while he creates a unique omakase experience for each customer. tojos.com Bar Corso Unassumingly tucked away on the popular Commercial Drive, Bar Corso has a huge grappa, amari and Italian wine selection, and chef Luke Boswell serving up delicious Italian small plates. This is perfect for a happy hour drink and snack with friends or a cosy date night spot. barcorso.ca Havana Filled with the vibrant colours and vibes of Old Havana, Cuba, this Latin restaurant is the ideal place to grab an ice-cold margarita. Pull up a seat on its year-round terrace and do some excellent people watching on the spirited Commercial Drive. You can wile away the day here with snacking on authentic Latin flavours infused with that seasonal, fresh BC style. Then head next door for cocktails and live music at The Flamingo Room. havanavancouver.com The Downlow Chicken Shack The Downlow Chicken Shack provides bold flavours with its spin on the classic Nashville hot chicken. Guests can also find a variety of creative fried chicken sandos, tenders and fries on ‘the downlow’ and even more on the current menu. Try the tender, crunchy, spicy chicken in this laid-back, casual restaurant. dlchickenshack.ca Where to stay in Vancouver The Douglas, Autograph Collection If you’re looking for a downtown location to easily explore the city and its sights, The Douglas will host you in comfortable luxury. Named after the Douglas fir tree, which is native to BC, you’ll find hints of its namesake throughout the hotel – from the large trunk dominating the reception area, to elegant décor in the rooms. The rooms are large, sleekly designed and comfortable, and have excellent views over BC Place and Rogers Arena (ideal if you’d like to watch a hockey game during your stay). With excellent on-site restaurants to choose from – such as The Victor, with locally sourced seafood and steak – you won’t have to travel far for good eats. From £244 per night; check availability at marriott.com. Granville Island Hotel This small boutique hotel is located on Granville Island, just across False Creek from downtown Vancouver. It’s the only hotel on this peninsula and, with its waterfront location, is excellently suited to peruse the unique artistic offerings of Granville Island. The rooms are airy and spacious, and the hotel offers a boutique experience, but the real star is the view over the creek from the rooms. You can watch the boats pass serenely by from your room in the morning before heading into the calm of the forests or bustle of the city. From £134 per night; check availability at granvilleislandhotel.com. More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
20 food experiences around the world that every food lover should try
From summer crayfish banquets in Malmö to Quebec's snow-taffy celebrations, check out Gurdeep Loyal's favourite foodie experiences from across the globe
Looking to add memorable foodie experiences to your bucket list? We asked food and drink trends specialist Gurdeep Loyal for 20 recommendations from around the world. For more from Gurd, check out his favourite homeware brands and products to discover, Gurdeep Loyal's culinary hotspots and Gurdeep Loyal's trend-led recipes. Gurdeep's favourite foodie experiences around the world 1. London, UK – Eat pie and mash in an iconic East End pie house Pie, mash and liquor (parsley sauce) is a culinary icon, upheld today by a handful of East End family eateries. G Kelly on Roman Road Market (in the Mile End neighbourhood) has been serving pies, mash, liquor and jellied eels since 1939. Its classic beef mince pie has a perfectly burnished pastry crust and is served with a puddle of flavourful green liquor and creamy mash. S&R Kelly & Sons in Bethnal Green is another East End institution – it’s been making traditional handmade mince meat pies since 1915. 2. Malmö, Sweden – Welcome August like a Scandi at a crayfish party August in Sweden is all about kräftskiva: outdoor parties centred around music, drinking and vats of freshly caught crayfish boiled in briny liquid (sometimes with a splash of ale), served cold with a crown of fresh dill. Malmö on the southwestern coast of Sweden is one of the best places to experience one. The Malmö Festival takes over Stortorget Square every August with long banquet tables (they stretch for more than 1km) piled high with boiled crayfish. 3. Mumbai, India – Do a sunset chaat street-snack crawl at Juhu Chowpatty Beach Juhu Chowpatty Beach in Mumbai is famous for its long sandy beach, sunset views and some of the best – and most colourful – street food stands in all of India. Visit Shree Ram Pav Bhaji for its paneer pav bhaji served with a buttery roll, masala pilou and Indo-Chinese hakka noodles. Sharma Chaat Bhandar is known for crunchy pani puri and papdi chaat, while Juhu Sealand specialises in technicolour falooda milkshakes and creamy pistachio-cashew kulfis. 4. Primorska, Slovenia – Visit a biodynamic orange winery Slovenia’s orange wines (made from white grapes where the skin and seeds are left in the macerations to impart an orange tint and tannins) are some of the best in the world. They’re known for their bold and complex flavours, with notes of floral herbs and rich honey. The north-western Primorska region, which stretches along the Adriatic Sea, is where Slovenia’s most prominent orange wineries can be found. Guerilla, a biodynamic winery in the Vipava Valley, is famous for its deep golden-coloured wines with notes of chamomile; and Movia wine estate in the village of Ceglo makes wines with intense bouquets of citrus, peaches, liquorice, vanilla and nutmeg. Make the most of your Slovenia trip with a few days exploring Ljubljana's best restaurants and the lush, green Julian Alps. 5. Penang, Malaysia – Take in the nighttime delights of Kimberly Street Night Market One of the most vibrant places to eat after dark in Penang is Kimberley Street Night Market in George Town’s Chinatown. Here you can try everything from laksa and oyster omelettes to char kway teow fried noodles and sweet si koh soup. Kimberley Street Duck Kway Chap is known for its rich braised duck flat-rice noodle soup. Tina’s Kitchen is a family-run spot that sells five-spiced Chinese sausage rolls, nasi ulum salted fish rice, and purple yam with tapioca jelly. And Tua Pui Curry Mee serves thick, aromatic curry soups with chicken, squid or cuttlefish. 6. Quebec, Canada – Head to a sugar shack for maple syrup snow-taffy celebrations Maple syrup taffy celebrations mark the Canadian culinary calendar every March and April. The highlight is when freshly tapped maple syrup is boiled, drizzled over clean white snow, then wound and twisted onto popsicle sticks into a sticky, chewy taffy. The area surrounding Montreal is famous for its cabanes à sucre (sugar shacks), which are traditional Quebec establishments where the new season’s maple syrup is celebrated in all its culinary guises. Érablière du Cap has been celebrating maple syrup since 1983 and offers a unique sugar shack menu and maple snow taffy experience. The Le Relais des Pins sugar shack experience includes visits to the maple sugar refinery and sleigh rides in the snow. 7. Houston and Louisiana, USA – Put on a bib and dive into a Viet-Cajun seafood boil Vietnamese immigrants have been thriving in the USA since the 1970s, particularly in Houston and Louisiana, which has resulted in a unique Viet-Cajun fusion cuisine. The most famous dish to come from this is Viet-Cajun seafood boil (traditional Cajun boil meets Southeast Asian aromatics). Crawfish & Noodles in Houston from James Beard Award-nominated chef Trong Nguyen specialises in Viet-Cajun crayfish, flavoured with a special spice blend (featuring lemongrass, ginger, garlic and cayenne) and served with Asian honey garlic wings on the side. Big EZ in Louisiana serves its Viet-Cajun boil Saigon-style: with kumquat, lemongrass and Cajun spices. 8. San Sebastián, Spain – Hop from bar to bar for pintxos and txakoli Basque-style tapas (pintxos) are typically served on long cocktail skewers or on top of toasted bread. San Sebastián, with is long sandy beach and characterful cobbled old town, is famous for its numerous pintxos bars, where hopping from one place to another is very much the done thing. Try the ‘igueldo’ at Antonio Bar: roasted tomato, tuna belly, Basque green peppers and salted anchovy on bread. Then head to Bar Txepetxa for fried calamari, gambas, vinegared anchovies and gilda, eaten alongside the region’s famous sparkling dry white wine, txakoli. Finish at La Espiga for thinly sliced jamón, oozy Spanish tortilla and stuffed piquillo peppers. Check out our full guide to the best restaurants in San Sebastian for more inspiration. 9. Oaxaca City, Mexico – Try freshly steamed street-side tamales Mexico’s Oaxaca City is all about tamales: steamed masa corn parcels filled with richly flavoured fillings, wrapped in banana leaves or corn husks, then freshly steamed. The rich, intensely savoury mole tamales at Mercado Sánchez Pascuas are some of the best in the city. Or head to Tamales de Tia Tila just outside of the city for black mole and salsa verde filled tamales, along with sweet tamales with cinnamon and tropical fruits. See our full guide to Oaxaca for more, including where to stay. We've also got a recipe for Mexican chicken mole rojo, to recreate at home. 10. Lagos, Nigeria – Enjoy barbecued suya skewers with yaji spice Nigeria’s famous suya skewers are strips of beef or goat, marinated in a yaji spice blend of chilli, ginger, garlic, peanuts and sometimes fermented locust beans and crushed bouillon. These are barbecued on skewers and served with more yaji spice sprinkled on top. The roads of Lagos are awash with suya carts and stalls. Glover Court Suya is one of the most loved spots, serving up beef and mixed grill skewers using its own unique spice blend. Locals favour Belton Suya Spot and Akerele Super Suya for their flavourful suya skewers. Discover more about Nigerian cuisine. 10. Nice, France – Take a fire-baked socca and pissaladière to the beach The regional cooking in Nice combines seasonal Provençal ingredients with Italian influences, as is best illustrated by socca and pissaladière. Socca (chickpea flour pancakes) are cooked in large iron pans over fire until scorched, then hand-cut into craggy pieces before being piled onto paper plates and served with sachets of salt and pepper. Pissaladière is a savoury Niçois pizza-tart with a thick layer of caramelised onions, anchovies and olives on top. Chez Rene Socca situated on a bustling corner of old town has queues for their piping hot socca and generously topped pissaladière at all hours. Chez Teresa, which also pops up in the old town market, is known for its crispy and moreish socca, perfect for taking to the beach with a cold bottle of French beer. Check out our round up of the best French food trips for more France travel inspiration. 11. Chicago, USA – Indulge in Chicago’s deep-dish and ultra-thin tavern-style pizzas Although Chicago deep-dish has attracted global fame, there are in fact two pizza styles that reign supreme in the windy city: buttery crusted cast-iron deep-dish, and ultra-thin crispy square-cut tavern style. For deep-dish, head to cult Chicago institution Piquods in Lincoln Park for ‘caramelised edge’ cheese-crusts, oozy layered inverted fillings and high-quality ingredients. For square-cut tavern style, visit Italian-owned Pat's Pizzeria, where the ‘cracker crust’ pizzas have been a hit with locals since 1950. 12. Singapore – Dive into some saucy Singaporean chilli crab Singaporean chilli crab is traditionally made with mud crabs that are cooked in an intensely flavoured sauce, rich with chilli, garlic, ginger, shallots, tomato paste and sometimes lemongrass, fermented soybean paste, sesame oil, or Shaoxing wine. Roland Restaurant is often cited as the birthplace of the dish and its recipe (invented by Madam Cher Yam Tian) has an intense chilli heat and deep flavour. The Michelin-recognised Keng Eng Kee Seafood at Alexandra Village is equally renowned for its own take on chilli crab, with a slick sweet and sour style sauce that’s thickened with egg. Try making it at home with our Singapore chilli crab recipe. 13. Tokyo, Japan – Try whisky highballs and drinking snacks in the alleyways of Golden Gai Golden Gai is a district of Kabukicho in Shinjuku where there are more than 250 tiny drinking dens across a handful of streets. Dongara-Gassyan specialises in Osaka-style fried meat and vegetable skewers, and Japanese karage-fried chicken with a tare glaze. Albatros bar with its kitsch chandeliers and chintzy interiors is famous for cocktails infused with ingredients such as spicy pepper and prickly pear. And Totobar is known for its sake, served up with small plates of grilled fish and sashimi. 14. Brussels, Belgium – Feast on shrimp bechamel croquettes and Belgian craft beer Belgium’s famous garnaalkroketten are deep-fried bechamel croquettes filled with flavoursome grey shrimp – expect a crisp, bread coating and creamy, velvety middle. Most traditional restaurants in Brussels have them on the menu, but the best place to try them is at Noordzee Mer Du Nord situated in a picturesque square in the historic old town, overlooking the gothic Église Sainte-Catherine. They’re freshly fried to order and are served with a rich mayonnaise and thick wedges of lemon – perfect for eating on outdoor tables that dot the square, with a craft Belgian beer to hand. Mare in the hip Wolf Food Hall also serves classic shrimp and old brugge cheese croquettes with homemade tartar. 15. St John’s, Antigua – Try the national dish of pepperpot and fungee Pepperpot is a one-pot stew that’s cooked long and slow with everything from beef to salted pork, spinach, yams, scotch bonnet peppers, thyme and all-spice. It’s served with fungee – a cornmeal and okra-based bread ball. Suga Beez is a road-side eatery with a daily changing menu of local specialities that serves up some of the most flavoursome pepperpot in St John’s. And Joe Mikes restaurant, which is attached to a casino, is a buffet-canteen style eatery that serves pillowy soft and delicate fungee alongside long-cooked pepperpot in a rich, meaty broth. 16. Crete, Greece – Eat traditional antikristo at a Cretan tavern Antikristo, which means ‘over fire’, is a traditional Cretan method of roasting salted lamb or goat on large skewers for several hours over open flames, then letting the meat cook in its own juices to give it a deep, intensely smoky flavour. Taverna Arhaia Lappa is an ancient tavern in the village of Rethymno that’s famous for its antikristo lamb. In Heraklion, Petousis is known for its traditional Greek barbecued lamb, cooked with the skewers in a circular formation for up to six hours until tender and deliciously charred. 17. Hong Kong – Dine at an old-school dim sum trolley-cart institution These unique establishments that serve freshly steamed dim sum on old-school trolley carts are treasured in Hong Kong. Lin Heung Lau Tea Room is one of the oldest, known for its steamed barbecued buns and har gau, pan-fried radish cake and deep-fried sesame balls. Luk On Kui is another traditional push-cart dim sum eatery that harks back to the 1970s with its décor and old world charms. Maxims Palace is one of Hong Kong’s most adored dim sum cart institutions, complete with white table clothes, crystal chandeliers and an almost endless selection of dim sum to select from trolleys that circle through the restaurant every lunchtime. 18. Turin, Italy – Try gianduja hazelnut chocolates in all their guises Gianduja – a rich chocolate and hazelnut confection – is the culinary symbol of Turin and Piedmont in northern Italy, showcasing the regions intensely flavoured buttery hazelnuts. It’s often turned into chocolate bars, sold as a spreadable paste, or even made into gianduiotto chocolate nuggets. Guido Gobino is a 50-year-old Turin institution with a historic headquarters on Cagliari Street. Its gianduja combines 45% tonda gentile trilobata hazelnuts, Italian sugar and vanilla bean. Contemporary chocolatier Guido Castagna sells unique tear-drop shaped gianduiotto, made with chuao cocoa from Venezuela. 20. Hanoi, Vietnam – Tackle a deep-filled bánh mì at a street-side stall in the city The bustling motorbike-flooded streets of Hanoi are the best places in the country for Vietnamese bánh mì sandwiches (French-style baguettes filled with the likes of lemongrass-marinated barbecued meats, pickled carrots and radishes, whole red chillies and fresh coriander). Bánh Mì Bà Dần in Hanoi’s old quarter is known for its crispy-soft breads and generous fillings, while Banh Mi Lan Ong offers Vietnamese sausage and fried egg fillings, plus signature sauces and duck pâté. Check out our rainbow banh mí recipe to make your own at home. More global guides Puerto Rico cuisine: 10 things we love Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
Best restaurants in Halifax, Nova Scotia
Discover our pick of where to eat and drink in Nova Scotia's coastal capital, including local hotspots, chef favourites and foodie neighbourhoods, plus day trip ideas in the magical archipelago
Looking for Halifax restaurants? Want to know where to get the best lobster in Nova Scotia's capital? Check out our favourite local places to eat and drink in Halifax below, then check out our guide to Nova Scotia's cuisine. Halifax, Nova Scotia: the best places to eat and drink The Narrows Public House – for neighbourhood vibes A local duo lived in this heritage property in the city’s North End district while meticulously restoring it into a truly Nova Scotian neighbourhood hangout. On-point snacks include deep-fried pepperoni dipped in honey mustard sauce and pickled herring with homemade crisps, as well as pub classics – fish and chips, Lunenburg sausage supper (with mash and sauerkraut), and comforting hodge-podge. The province is well represented on the draught beers and ales list – look out for Big Spruce Brewing, Propeller and Boxing Rock – and there is live music three times a week. thenarrowspublichouse.ca Mystic – for fine dining Strikingly perched on the Halifax waterfront like a glass-fronted wave, this fine-dining restaurant showcases Nova Scotia’s distinct terroir in six- and eight-course tasting menus. Chef de cuisine Malcolm Campbell and his team use local ingredients in an inventive combination of traditional and contemporary techniques – think swordfish bresaola crafted into the shape of a rose, seaweed-wrapped lobster in scallop sauce, and saffron chocolate bon-bons served alongside haskap pâtes de fruits on dehydrated sea plants foraged from the Salt Marsh Trail. mysticnovascotia.ca Tony's Donair – for local street food Locals debate over who does the best donair in town – Tony's of The King of Donair. The former is a simple corner xxx that has been serving the unique Nova Scotian snack since 1976 Kebab meat is stuffed into a wrap and finished with the famous donair sauce to add a sweet, tangy, creamy finish. Another custom is to dip homemade pizza or garlic dough fingers into the sauce for a comforting snack. tonysdonair.com The Press Gang Restaurant & Oyster Bar – for oyster tastings Perch at the bar at this candlelit maritime- themed joint for local ales and fresh oysters. There’s always an oyster option from each Atlantic Canadian province, so you can taste your way up the coast. These might be huge, hand-dived Pristine Bay molluscs from Nova Scotia’s Pictou Island area, Prince Edward Island Barstool Cocktails, New Brunswick Beausoleil and Newfoundland Merasheen Bay varieties. Pair with a glass of Nova Scotian sparkling wine – perhaps a zingy, aromatic Gaspereau Tidal Bay. thepressgang.ca Elle's Bistro – for classic breakfast Locals line up outside this popular café for morning classics including old school diner breakfast, lobster benedict and breakfast poutine, alongside hot pots of coffee and fresh cinnamon rolls. There's a classic caff-cum-diner feel with bare brick walls and friendly local chat. 1678 Barrington Street The Highwayman – for local cocktails and tapas A personal recommendation from a local I met at MUIR hotel's gallery, this intimate, Spanish-style bistro serves tapas using Nova Scotian ingredients. Think scallop crudo served in coconut milk, seasonal corn ribs with Romesco and shrimp skewers with mojo verde.Keegan McGregor won bartender of the year at Diageo's World Class bar awards in 2024, thanks to his concoctions encapsulating the peninsula. New to the menu is the Canadian Tuxedo (that was yet to be named when we tried it on the new menu preview) – a blend of floral haskap berry and sweet maple syrup with bourbon and brandy infused with oats, raisins, dried apricots and Tonka bean to create a bright, floral ode to morning porridge. The Nova Scotia clarified pear soda highball finished with wild blueberry dust is another poignant drink. highwaymanhfx.com Peacock – for Nova Scotian wine If you want to taste your way through some Nova Scotian wines while in the city, Peacock Wine Bar in the Queen's Marque District has a happy hour when all Nova Scotian wines and g&ts are half price. Try Blomidon crémant, Lightfoot & Wolfville Tidal Bay, Benjamin Bridge rosé and more. Chef Moira Murray spotlights local ingredients in Italian-style dishes. She won the accolade for Halifax's best oysters recently with her dulse, prosecco and sherry foam topped Sober Island oyster starter. Pasta shells alla norma are made using Abundant Acres tomatoes for extra sweetness, while chillis add a kick to the pulled pork confit and fried aubergine with fragrant Thai basil. peacockwinebar.ca Salt + Ash – for seafood lunch There's a nod to the province's surf culture in this relaxed waterfront restaurant. Sit on the deck with a local ale and watch the boats bob by or relax around the contemporary fires indoors. The casual dining menu of East Coast favourites includes battered cod tacos, chowder and plump, fire-roasted Digby scallops, alongside popular wood-fired pizzas topped with the likes of Brothers pepperoni or house-cured salmon. saltashhalifax.com Peace By Chocolate – for chocolate treats Nova Scotia has welcomed immigrants from all over the world over the years. At the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 Canadians can trace their roots and learn about the history and stories of communities that now call the country home. The Hadhad family were chocolate makers for over 30 years in their homeland of Syria before having to leave in 2012. With the support of the community in Antigonish in eastern Nova Scotia, the family rebuilt the business and now creates chocolate using Syrian and Canadian ingredients. Sample a selection at the contemporary boutique in the Queen's Marque district in Halifax, from luxurious hot chocolate to Nova Scotian cranberry and blueberry-jewelled bars. The packaging adorned with Canadian scenery and sayings means the bars make for great souvenirs to take home. peacebychocolate.ca Clearwater Seafoods – for airport lobster Locals are obsessed with lobster, as it's abundant all year round. You can even pick out a live lobster from the tank at Halifax airport to be prepared as you wish, while the display fridge offers whole crustaceans, tails and fresh meat to snack on while you wait to board if you so wish. clearwater.ca Where to stay in Halix Muir Recently opened as part of the impressive Queen’s Marque development, this five-star hotel sits majestically on the waterfront. Muir is Gaelic for ‘sea’ and references are woven into the contemporary ship-like design, most notable in a striking fresnel lens art installation at the entrance. Attention to detail in the plush rooms is exceptional – the sleek bar is stocked with local spirits and snacks (Halifax-based Compass Distillers gin, Lunenburg’s Ironworks rum and artisan bars from Peace by Chocolate set up by Syrian refugees); a QR code linking to natural Nova Scotian soundbites accompanies Canadian spring water at turn down; and curtains open at the press of a button to reveal views over the boardwalk, harbour and Georges Island lighthouse. Breakfast at Drift ranges from the nourishing The Hipster plate to huge frilly pancakes studded with wild local blueberries. Come evening, cocktails spotlight local spirits and ingredients such as foraged forest syrup, while chefs elevate traditional Acadian dishes in the likes of mini rappie pie with Abundant Acres pickled farm salad. Unwind at Windward Wellness, rotating between the sauna and eucalyptus steam room, revitalising dips in the cold plunge, and private sessions in the Himalayan pink salt room that pumps in maritime Atlantic salt air. The concierge can also organise helicopter rides to Cape Breton Island for autumn foliage viewing, whale watching and picnics on the beach. Doubles from £237, check availibility at booking.com or muirhotel.com Foodie day trips from Halifax Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia’s best lobster rolls – according to locals – are served by Tom and his small team from a blue shack perched above the lobster pots and stilted houses of fishing village Peggy’s Cove, 45 minutes drive from Halifax. The classic tosses lobster meat in a sweet, creamy sauce, while ‘naked’ is dressed in a simple garlic butter, stuffed in a lightly toasted brioche roll on a bed of kettle chips. Iced coffee is laced with maple syrup for a sweet, Canadian-style hit. After lunch, mooch up to the iconic lighthouse complete with swish viewing platform and clamber across the smooth rocks to soak up the Atlantic air and glistening sea views. A short drive further along the coast is Rhubarb, a homely restaurant where you can tuck into steaming bowls of seafood chowder and hot buttered scones. Most of the lobster used in these spots come from Ryer Retail. Stop by to get up close and personal with lobsters, some over 45 years old. Wolfville and the Annapolis Valley Drive into the Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia's agricultural heartland. The rich, fertile soils yield some of Canada’s best fruit and veg, including Honeycrisp apples, blueberries and pumpkins. There's a fantastic selection available at Noggins Corner Farm Market. Sample the region's apples pressed into ciders at Annapolis Cider Company in Wolfville, that always offers a seasonal flavour to raise money for charity. Across the road, church-turned brewery, Church Brewing Company, leans into its history – there’s a live music stage in the original sanctuary and aptly named seasonal specials are popped up on boards like hymns of the week: think Congregation Pilsner, Illuminate Pale Ale and Church Blonde. Eclectic seating areas are interspersed across the space beneath photographs of cultural icons including a tribute to Gord Downie, the late singer from Canadian band The Tragically Hip. Down the road at Grand Pré Winery, the Stutz family has lovingly cultivated a small vineyard, wine shop and pint-sized inn. Taste award-winning sparkling cider and Nova Scotian wines at the shop then pop over to Le Caveau for plump Atlantic Canadian oysters and made-to-order charcuterie boards. Rent an e-bike to cycle along the Harvest Moon Trail that connects the valley’s vineyards, ending at The Long Table Social Club that hosts sociable outdoor suppers with views over the Bay of Fundy and Cape Split.
Nova Scotia, Canada's cuisine: where to eat, drink and stay
Chefs Bill Osborne and Malcolm Campbell from Halifax’s Mystic restaurant share what makes the food culture of this Atlantic Canadian province so special
Want to know where to eat and drink in Nova Scotia? Or which foods to try in the Atlantic Canadian province? Read our guide to Nova Scotia's food and drink scene and where to stay while you're there, then check out our guide to restaurants in the capital of Halifax. 10 foods and traditions to try in Nova Scotia Foraging Nova Scotia’s rugged coastline is prime terrain for gathering sea truffles, sea lettuce and samphire. On land, bright yellow goldenrod flowers are reminiscent of rustling through the fields as children. We turn them into a delicate vinegar at Mystic, while small white carrot flowers are fried until crisp, and cattail pollen gives a corn-like touch to homemade breads. Pub culture The Celtic maritime influence ensures a lively pub scene in Nova Scotia. Music is a huge part of local life and there are regular live sets in most bars, pubs and restaurants. Traditionally the band would take a break, raise their glass and say ‘sociable’, so this has become a way of saying cheers among locals. Pub food classics include seafood chowder, fried clams and fish and chips. Lobster Nova Scotians are obsessed with lobster, as it is fresh and abundant all year round. The crustacean is used in everything from Acadian grandmother-style pies, hearty poutine and brioche rolls, to intense stocks and delicate mousse. The meat is also combined with seafood and vegetables to create hearty chowders that can be tasted along Nova Scotia’s Chowder Trail, including cosy coastal restaurant Rhubarb. Get up close and personal with 45-year-old lobsters at Ryer Retail in Peggy’s Cove. Brothers-style pepperoni Introduced to Nova Scotia by two Polish immigrants, woodfire smoked pepperoni is now a staple snack found in delis, shops and pubs across the province. It’s often served in deep-fried slices with a honey mustard dipping sauce. The sliced pepperoni creates a cup shape and the oil gathers in a pool in the centre for a moreish savoury treat. Haskap and blueberries Oxford, in the north of the province, is the wild blueberry capital of Canada, while Lunenburg is a haven for long, nutrient-rich haskap berries. Their tart, sweet flavour make them great dessert ingredients as well as botanicals to infuse into gin – try Steinhart Distillery’s haskap blend as a unique aperitif. Shellfish Nova Scotia’s clean, cold waters produce superb shellfish including plump oysters, from the minerally Eastern Shore Sober Island variety to Shandaph from the northern Antigonish area and briney molluscs harvested from the wild, rugged shores of Cape Breton Island. Digby scallops, grown in the pristine Bay of Fundy, are some of the largest and sweetest in the world. Regional produce The rich, fertile soils of the Annapolis Valley yield some of Canada’s best fruit and veg, from crisp, sweet Honeycrisp apples to strawberries, cranberries and pumpkins. Apples are also pressed to create still and sparkling ciders that can be sampled at Annapolis Cider Company in Wolfville. Wine The province was one of the first wine-growing regions in North America. Its cool climate and fertile soils, similar to Champagne in France, make prime conditions to produce sparkling, white and light red varieties. Nova Scotia has its own DOP – crisp, aromatic Tidal Bay created especially to be paired with seafood. Lightfoot & Wolfville makes a fantastic chardonnay, and Benjamin Bridge offers a selection of elegant bruts. Donair Donair is one of Halifax’s official dishes. A Greek immigrant invented the sweet, tangy, creamy sauce that accompanies the classic spiced doner kebab to create a unique twist. This is late-night, post-party food and there’s a constant debate among Nova Scotians whether King of Donair or Tony’s Famous Donair serves the best. Rappie pie This traditional dish is proper comfort food, created by the Acadians on their return to the land after the Great Deportation in the 18th century. Finely grated potato tops a rich, gooey chicken filling flavoured with a summer savory herb seasoning similar to marjoram. Where to eat and drink in Nova Scotia Tom’s Lobster Shack Nova Scotia’s best lobster rolls – according to locals – are served by Tom and his small team from a blue shack perched above the lobster pots and stilted houses of picturesque fishing village Peggy’s Cove. The classic tosses lobster meat in a sweet, creamy sauce, while ‘naked’ is dressed in a simple garlic butter, stuffed in a lightly toasted brioche roll on a bed of kettle chips. Iced coffee is laced with maple syrup for a sweet, Canadian-style hit. After lunch, mooch up to the iconic lighthouse complete with swish viewing platform and clamber across the smooth rocks to soak up the Atlantic air and glistening sea views. @tomslobstershack Mystic, Halifax Strikingly perched on the Halifax waterfront like a glass-fronted wave, this fine-dining restaurant showcases Nova Scotia’s distinct terroir in six- and eight-course tasting menus. Chef de cuisine Malcolm Campbell and his team use local ingredients in an inventive combination of traditional and contemporary techniques – think swordfish bresaola crafted into the shape of a rose, seaweed-wrapped lobster in scallop sauce, and saffron chocolate bon-bons served alongside haskap pâtes de fruits on dehydrated sea plants foraged from the Salt Marsh Trail. mysticnovascotia.ca Church Brewing Company, Wolfville This converted church leans into its history – there’s a live music stage in the original sanctuary and aptly named seasonal specials are popped up on boards like hymns of the week: think Congregation Pilsner, Illuminate Pale Ale and Church Blonde. Eclectic seating areas are interspersed across the space beneath photographs of cultural icons including a tribute to Gord Downie, the late singer from Canadian band The Tragically Hip. churchbrewing.ca The Narrows Public House, Halifax A local duo lived in this heritage property in the city’s North End district while meticulously restoring it into a truly Nova Scotian neighbourhood hangout. On-point snacks include deep-fried pepperoni dipped in honey mustard sauce and pickled herring with homemade crisps, as well as pub classics – fish and chips, Lunenburg sausage supper (with mash and sauerkraut), and comforting hodge-podge. The province is well represented on the draught beers and ales list – look out for Big Spruce Brewing, Propeller and Boxing Rock – and there is live music three times a week. thenarrowspublichouse.ca The Press Gang Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Halifax Perch at the bar at this candlelit maritime- themed joint for local ales and fresh oysters. There’s always an oyster option from each Atlantic Canadian province, so you can taste your way up the coast. These might be huge, hand-dived Pristine Bay molluscs from Nova Scotia’s Pictou Island area, Prince Edward Island Barstool Cocktails, New Brunswick Beausoleil and Newfoundland Merasheen Bay varieties. Pair with a glass of Nova Scotian sparkling wine – perhaps a zingy, aromatic Gaspereau Tidal Bay. thepressgang.ca Where to stay in Nova Scotia Muir, Halifax Recently opened as part of the impressive Queen’s Marque development, this five-star hotel sits majestically on the waterfront. Muir is Gaelic for ‘sea’ and references are woven into the contemporary ship-like design, most notable in a striking fresnel lens art installation at the entrance. Attention to detail in the plush rooms is exceptional – the sleek bar is stocked with local spirits and snacks (Halifax-based Compass Distillers gin, Lunenburg’s Ironworks rum and artisan bars from Peace by Chocolate set up by Syrian refugees); a QR code linking to natural Nova Scotian soundbites accompanies Canadian spring water at turn down; and curtains open at the press of a button to reveal views over the boardwalk, harbour and Georges Island lighthouse. Breakfast at Drift ranges from the nourishing The Hipster plate to huge frilly pancakes studded with wild local blueberries. Come evening, cocktails spotlight local spirits and ingredients such as foraged forest syrup, while chefs elevate traditional Acadian dishes in the likes of mini rappie pie with Abundant Acres pickled farm salad. Unwind at Windward Wellness, rotating between the sauna and eucalyptus steam room, revitalising dips in the cold plunge, and private sessions in the Himalayan pink salt room that pumps in maritime Atlantic salt air. The concierge can also organise helicopter rides to Cape Breton Island for autumn foliage viewing, whale watching and picnics on the beach. muirhotel.com The Inn at Grand Pré Winery, Annapolis Valley The Stutz family moved from Switzerland to the Annapolis Valley in 1994 and lovingly cultivated a small vineyard outside the town of Wolfville. They’ve now turned their house into a pint-sized inn. Many cosy features remain, reflected in the black and white photographs dating back to 1828 when the house was built, including a domestic wood-panelled kitchen and cosy reception room where breakfasts of freshly baked scones with pear butter are served. Six stylish rooms lead off the original wooden staircase, each offering unique features. The light-filled Sun room has a chic cabin ambience and huge en suite with built-in bath; Courtyard is a spacious wood-panelled suite with original fireplace; and the Loft boasts two rooms and a stylish seating area beneath original eaves. Mini bars are stocked with a generous selection of the property’s wines and beers. Accompany with a made-to-order charcuterie board piled high with an ode to the province – chilli coriander salami, hot-smoked duck, pickled grapes, acorn squash and fermented peach. The latter can also be enjoyed at on-site restaurant Le Caveau along with fresh oysters, tuna crudo and red deer stew. During the winter months, there are supper clubs and raclette nights at the inn, and wine tastings in the adjoining wine shop. Rent an e-bike to cycle along the Harvest Moon Trail that connects the valley’s vineyards, ending at The Long Table Social Club that hosts sociable outdoor suppers with views over the Bay of Fundy and Cape Split. grandprewines.com For more travel information, visit explore-canada.co.uk and novascotia.com. Image credits: Doublespace, Getty Images, Aaron McKenzie Fraser, Alex Crossley, Yarmouth & Acadian Shores Tourism Association (YASTA)
Check out our guide to the best of the Americans food trips for 2018. From beautiful beaches in Trancoso to lively city breaks in New Orleans, here are our favourites
Looking for the best food trips to take in North and South America? Check out our guide to the best places to visit in the USA, Canada and South America. From top city breaks, to beautiful beaches in Trancoso, you can expect to try boozy brunches in the states, ceviche in Peru and indoor markets in Canada. If you want to check out more places to eat and drink in America, read our guide to Chicago, Illinois, here Peru From ceviche in Lima, to alpaca carpaccio in the Andes, Peru is no longer just a stop off point, but now a magnet for foodies. If tapas is what you’re after, head to 1940s bodega – La Preferida for ceviche served in shells. Try a range of ones, from mussel mixed with onion, coriander, chilli and lemon to scallop and avocado. Make sure to drive to the Sunday morning market at Chinchero where trading is done the traditional way. A bowl of steaming chicharrones (fried pork) with crispy potatoes is a must. Read our guide to the best places to eat in Peru, here Trancoso Brazil’s palm-fringed beach town, Trancoso, is an idyllic foodie haven filled with relaxed restaurants and cafes. Fresh seafood is a real focus, so sign up for a lesson in how to make Bahian fish stew at Uxua Casa Hotel. If you’re happy just eating, order a bowl filled with white fish, prawns, garlic, coconut cream and chilli. You might not expect it, but you can get a great flat white from The Coffee Bar. Don’t leave before you try pão de queijo, a crisp bread puff filled with cheese. You’ll find these everywhere and they’re hard to resist. Read our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Trancoso, here New Orleans For lively bars, buzzy cafes and Southern soul food, New Orleans is a must visit. Start your day with breakfast at Brennan’s; while there are dozens of egg dishes to choose from, make sure you save room for the bananas Foster – a boozy banana and ice cream dessert. If you’ve got room, head to Killer Po' boys for New Orleans’ most famous sandwich. Choose between black beer beef debris or seared gulf shrimp. End the day at Arnaud’s French 75 bar and order a local cocktail like a brandy crusta. Read our guide to the best places to eat and drink in New Orleans, here Montreal Quebec province’s largest city, Montreal, has a buzzing restaurant and cafe scene. First up, grab a cortado from Café Pista before strolling around Cochons Tout Ronds, Canada’s largest food market. If you need a mid-afternoon sweet pick me up, head to Cocoa Locale for a slice of chocolate chai cake. Pay a visit to restaurant Le Diplomate before you leave – share some bar snacks or a plate of brown butter poached calamari with summer truffles and cured egg yolk. Trinidad and Tobago Get an early flight from Trinidad airport to make the most of the food court. Watch as vendors slosh ladles of curried chickpeas between fried flatbreads before twisting them into a pastry shape. After an early morning snack, visit Eden’s sweet and sour hot spot on the way to the beach for kurma – sweet, deep-fried dough biscuits spiced with cinnamon. For some of the best crab and dumplings in Tobago, pay a visit to Miss Trim who added extras cloves to the spice mix for a personal touch. The soft flesh of the crab and juices are soaked up by homemade cornmeal dumplings. Read our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Trinidad and Tobago, here