Experience the multicultural flavours of this Australian island strait, from soy-braised chicken to citrus and coconut-marinated fish
Want to learn about the food of Torres Strait? Looking for Australian recipes? Read Nornie Bero's guide below, then check out more Australian recipes. Recipes extracted from Mabu Mabu, by Nornie Bero (£22, Hardie Grant) Torres Strait's cuisine The Torres Strait was multicultural long before the rest of Australia. Our dishes have strong Japanese and Southeast Asian influences, filtered through an Island lens. The Islands traded food, plants, baskets and nets with Papua New Guinea and Indonesia for generations. The Japanese settled there as early as the mid-19th century, diving for pearls and bêche-de-mer (sea cucumbers). Flour is an essential part of life in the Torres Strait Islands. While many kids come home from school and have a slice of bread, Island kids have dombois, which are similar to doughnuts and can be savoury or sweet. They’re very filling, especially when cooked ‘sabee’ style, in rich coconut cream. Damper is the bread I grew up with. You don’t get freshly baked loaves off the barges – just flour and tins of butter. It was always made ‘Island style’, wrapped in banana leaves and steam-baked in the kup murri (underground oven). You don’t often find a kangaroo tail in the meat aisle but Aboriginal people have been eating it for generations. They know it has some of the juiciest meat. Whenever we cook an animal, we make sure we eat the whole thing. Seafood is abundant – garfish, squid, oysters, mussels and periwinkles are all fished and foraged. Native Island ingredients include the sea succulents samphire and karkalla, and seeds such as pepperberry and wattleseed, a seed with a hazelnut flavour. Torres Strait recipes Semur chicken Semur is a hearty dish in which a whole chicken is cooked in a thick soy broth with vermicelli noodles – lemongrass, soy and chilli feature in many dishes from the Torres Strait Islands, influenced by the multiculturalism there. Wattleseed scones Wattleseed has a hazelnut-like taste and thickening ability similar to ground almonds – serve the scones with golden syrup butter or cream as part of an indulgent afternoon tea. Namas This dish is prepared in a similar style to ceviche. It’s always best when made with fresh fish straight out of the ocean. The raw fish will cure in the citrus and coconut to create a smooth, fragrant and refreshing starter. The hint of soy brings these multicultural flavours together.
Tasmanian food: how to cook like a local
From fresh-off-the-boat seafood to award-wining wine and fragrant indigenous honey, try a taste of this unique Australian island at home
Want to learn about Tasmanian food? Looking for Tasmanian recipes? Read Analiese Gregory's guide, then check out our Australian recipes and our guide to the cuisine of Torres Strait. Recipes extracted from How Wild Things Are: Cooking, Fishing and Hunting at the Bottom of the World by Analiese Gregory (£22, Hardie Grant). These recipes were supplied by the publisher and not retested by us. Tasmanian cuisine A tiny but wild island-off-an-island at the end of the world. The last stop between Australia and Antarctica, Tasmania is a pristine wilderness abounding in natural beauty and ingredients with a purity of flavour. From the abalone (large sea snails) that pepper the whole coastline, to oysters, mussels, sea urchins, fresh seaweed and rock lobsters, the seafood options are ingrained in the eating culture of the island. Wild local game and bush food plants, part of the indigenous diet, are in abundance, too. Another taste of Tasmania is leatherwood honey. Unique to the island, it comes from a rainforest plant that flowers for just six to eight weeks of the year. The flavour has been described as a taste of the Australian bush after it rains: buttery, creamy and distinctive. This is also a place of farmers’ markets, oyster shacks, cult fish ’n’ chip shops, food festivals, distilleries and vineyards. Tasmanian wine is particularly hot right now – House of Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged 2004 was named best sparkling wine in the world in Decanter’s Wine of the Year 2020 tasting. The island is cooled by the Southern Ocean, making ideal growing conditions for classic sparkling wine grapes such as pinot noir and chardonnay. Production is small but there are some great bottles to try. Tasmanian recipes Pickled mussels and octopus with XO aïoli Love seafood? Let it shine in this medley of pickled mussels, octopus, fresh herbs, thinly sliced turnips and a quick homemade XO aïoli. Honey madeleines Flavour your next batch of madeleines with honey (the leatherwood variety, used in this recipe, is from Tasmania) to add subtle sweetness to an elegant bake. Salt-baked beetroot with macadamia and mulberry A new way to serve beetroot, this recipe makes the most of juicy mulberries (or blackberries) and a sharp sherry vinegar dressing. Three Tasmanian wines to try House of Arras Brut Elite £34.99, majestic.co.uk From the same producer as the Decanter winner, but much more affordable. Jansz Premium Cuvée NV £17.99, waitrose.com Well balanced with delicate fruit flavours and a creamy finish. Devil’s Corner Pinot Noir £15.49, rannochscott.co.uk Ripe plum and cherry flavours with a hint of spice. Tasmanian honey to try Leatherwood honey, £4.95, harveynichols.com A golden-yellow honey, smooth and buttery in texture with an intense perfume and a clean, lightly spiced flavour.
A local insider’s guide to Queensland, Australia
In-the-know locals share their favourite al fresco restaurants, urban pitstops and hidden beaches across this sunny, laid-back state
With 260 days of sunshine, Queensland has always been a sought-after holiday destination thanks to its sparkling coastline. But scratch the surface and you’ll also uncover verdant tropical rainforests teeming with wildlife, an expansive scenic outback and remote, rugged mountains. Thanks to this rich and diverse landscape which yields an abundance of fresh produce, cutting-edge micro-producers, world-famous chefs and innovative locals have redefined the food and drink scene of the state over the last few years, making it one of Australia’s hottest culinary destinations. What better way to indulge in this flourishing food scene than by teaming it with the stunning surrounds. Think al fresco terraces, waterside restaurants and rooftop bars, sitting side by side with Queensland’s easy-going locals. In fact, these guys know some of the best places to soak up the scenery and where to dine in style, which is why we’ve asked a few for their insider foodie travel tips. Read on to discover some of the best spots along Queensland’s stunning coastline and tropical inland. Or, if you’re after itineraries tailored more to your taste, check out four foodie trips in Queensland here. Café culture in a sun-soaked city – Brisbane This lively city boasts a bit of everything for a foodie stay – rooftop bars with sweeping views, intimate restaurants hidden down quirky laneways and a lively coffee scene with a unique character. Cycle through the city on a coffee-shop crawl in Brisbane’s West End area. Order a double-filtered cold brew from Who Shot The Barista’s yellow hatch and take in the colourful mural displayed on the charming, heritage-listed building. Cycle via Streets Beach to the kiosk café on Goodwill Bridge, where you can sip on a flat white and soak up views of the river and South Bank. Local tip: Lee-Anne Harris of Walk Brisbane knows where to find hidden gems and hole-in-the-wall haunts in Queensland’s cool capital city, having led walking tours in Brisbane for more than five years. “My family and I came to Queensland for a two-year stint back in 1994 and 26 years later we’re still here! Queensland is such a diverse state – I enjoy its beautiful beaches, dramatic outback landscapes, and tropical rainforests, but I'm a city girl at heart. I live right in the middle of Brisbane and the city centre is my backyard! My go-to coffee spot is Bean Café which is tucked away in a laneway and just a short walk to the inner-city riverside oasis of the City Botanic Gardens. Laid-back al fresco dining – Gold Coast The Gold Coast, south of Brisbane, boasts some of the world’s best beaches as well as an eclectic dining scene. Start with coffee on the terrace at pretty Elk Espresso in Broadbeach. Chilled-out, al fresco dining is what Queensland is all about, so walk along the shore until you reach Peter’s Fish Market on Main Beach – one of the best places for fish and chips on the coast. Once you’ve got your grub head to Broadwater to tuck in with water views. In the afternoon, grab a surf lesson in Surfers Paradise before heading to Chinatown for dinner – try Thai at Sen Lek Thai Cafe, Vietnamese at Pho 333 or authentic northern Chinese Uighur cuisine at Xin Jiang. Local tip: Sammi (Samantha Jekyll) grew up on the Gold Coast in her parents’ surf school, Get Wet Surf School, and has been leading surf lessons since she was 16. “The best part about growing up on the Gold Coast is the diversity; I can be hiking in the hinterland with waterfalls in the morning and walking my dog on the beach in the afternoon. My favourite laid-back place to eat is the local Seaway café at the Spit. After a surf, I love to grab a mouth-watering burger or local fish taco and sit by the Gold Coast Seaway watching boats go by and spotting turtles and dolphins in the waves.” Fine flavours and fresh local produce – Sunshine Coast From microbreweries and coffee roasters to some of the state’s best fine-dining restaurants, the Sunshine Coast is a booming culinary mecca. For delicious cocktails and inventive Asian sharing plates, visit Sum Yung Guys, led by MasterChef alum, Matt Sinclair. For a traditional dining experience, head to the rainforest to Harry’s on Burderim. Housed in a 139-year-old homestead, the ever-changing seasonal menu champions local produce. Or try Spicers Tamarind in the hinterland for an award-winning menu that showcases contemporary Australian cuisine with an Asian twist. Local tip: Josh Donohoe is owner of behind-the-scenes Creative Tours on the Sunshine Coast, taking visitors to meet the makers and hear their stories. “I relocated to Queensland’s Sunshine Coast from Sydney, drawn to the region’s amazing climate, relaxed lifestyle and diverse range of local produce. For the best fruit and veg, go direct to the source and visit the farms in the Sunshine Coast Hinterland.” Shellfish and whale watching – Fraser Coast Declared the world’s first Whale Heritage site last year, Hervey Bay is the best base for spotting humpback whales. From there, hop over to Fraser Island, the world’s largest sand island. Trek through the rainforests to Indian Head for panoramic views, swim in rainwater lakes and drive the length of sand highway 75 Mile Beach. After a day exploring, reward yourself with Australian cuisine at Kingfisher Bay Resort. Try the tasting menu at Seabelle Restaurant (the Hervey Bay scallops are a must), cocktails in the Sunset Bar or a bush tucker experience, sampling and cooking native berries, leaves and nuts as well as crocodile and emu. Local tip: Fraser Island local John Peaker runs Hervey Bay Whale Watch with his family. It is the only whale watching tour that travels via Kingfisher Bay Resort on Fraser Island. “Fraser Island is a beautiful place to explore, full of rainforests, eucalyptus woodland, sand dunes and coastal heaths. Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Sand Bar bistro and its striking bush location is a must, with spacious decks giving views of the Great Sandy Strait and Aussie-style poolside dining on offer.” Private island dining – Wilson Island Wilson Island is both part of the Great Barrier Reef and surrounded by it. The pristine azure blue waters host a variety of marine life – in fact some of the best snorkelling on the Reef is right off the beach. Book one of only nine secluded luxurious safari tents and begin every evening with sunset drinks and canapés on the beach and a dinner party at the Longhouse restaurant. The resort is committed to Australian produce, and every ingredient and spirit comes from the country, with the exception of champagne. Local tip: Wilson Island’s Chef Andrew Sheridan is originally from South Australia. In 2019, he decided to move north with his wife Bec and they now spend their days in paradise, with Andrew cooking for guests and Bec hosting. “I love the weather, pristine beaches and amazing seafood you find in Queensland. Catch an incredible sunset on the north beach with champagne and oysters in hand watching the turtles swim by. It doesn’t get much better than that!” Secluded picnics on white silica sands – The Whitsundays Hop between this spectacular collection of 74 islands on the Great Barrier Reef. Guests of Hamilton Island can fly out to Heart Island, a new pontoon located near the world-famous Heart Reef for a closer look at the stunning part of the world. Stop off at Whitehaven Beach for a tropical picnic of fresh mangos, melons and barramundi before returning back for a luxurious stay at qualia resort. While in the region, immerse yourself in the region’s heritage with an Ngaro Indigenous Cultural Tour. Learn about the history of these sea-faring people, their customs and how they hunted and sourced their food. Local tip: Mark Jensen is executive chef at qualia resort on Hamilton Island. “My favourite spot on the Great Barrier Reef would have to be Heart Island. Exclusive to guests of Hamilton Island, Heart Island looks like it was constructed for James Bond himself and allows for a maximum of six guests. After a day exploring the Reef, I recommend an evening at Pebble Beach restaurant. The food is outstanding, with a menu inspired by the bounty of the surrounding Whitsunday Islands.” Gin and cheese tasting in Far North Queensland – Atherton Tablelands Only a 1.5 hour drive from Cairns, the Atherton Tablelands in Far North Queensland boasts incredible foodie experiences set amongst lush rainforest. Stay at The Falls Teahouse B&B, which is only a short walk to the picturesque Millaa Millaa Falls. For lunch, stop at Mungalli Creek Dairy for the signature cheese platter, drinking in the surrounding rolling hills. After lunch, head to Mt Uncle Distillery for a memorable gin tasting on a beautiful estate. Finish your day by visiting the Smokehouse Café to try freshly smoked barramundi and chicken with lemon myrtle while watching platypus play at sundown. Local tip: Mt Uncle’s premium distillery is making waves with its flagship Botanic Australis Gin and Iridium Gold Rum, which won World’s Best Pot Still Rum at the 2019 World Rum Awards. Bartender and orders manager Julia Parsons loves the sense of local community. “When on the Atherton Tablelands, we think the best spot for a sanga (Aussie for sandwich) has to be the Tolga Pub. 10 minutes up the road from Mt Uncle Distillery, it’s a classic Queensland heritage pub. Good food, cold beer and a perfect spot to kick back for an afternoon.” Foraging in the Tropical North – Daintree Rainforest Join aboriginal Juan Walker on one of his Indigenous Walkabout Cultural Adventures. Explore Kuku Yalanji country in the only place in the world where two world heritage sites meet – the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. When in the Daintree region, make sure you also check out the area’s self-guided Daintree Food Trail while you’re there. Local tip: Juan Walker, a Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal man from the Mossman -Daintree area of North Queensland, operates Walkabout Cultural Adventures. “I feel like we are lucky here in Kuku Yalanji country with so many great locations. I personally prefer to sit beside a freshwater stream in the Daintree rainforest to enjoy nature. It’s quiet and I can watch the wind through trees and the native fauna along the banks… or choose to jump in, take a swim. This is all part of the unique experience I provide to guests on my day tours." Whatever your taste, Queensland has something for everyone. For more information on a delectable foodie getaway served with a side of adventure, a healthy dose of nature and rich culture, visit queensland.com. Main header image: seaside lunch at Rick Shores, Gold Coast. Images courtesy of Tourism and Events Queensland
Four foodie trips in Queensland, Australia
Whether you’re after a tropical adventure, laid-back coastal unwind or an eclectic urban culinary tour, embark on one of our diverse foodie trips in this beautiful Australian state
Queensland has something to offer everyone – from action-packed tropical trips to relaxing beachside escapes and cultural city breaks. This Australian state has stepped up its game in recent years and now boasts a cutting-edge culinary scene thanks to innovative chefs, a laid-back dining culture and a crop of new-wave producers making the most of the rich soil and tropical climate. We’ve picked out four foodie itineraries catering to different tastes to help you discover this must-visit destination. Choose one or string all four together for a diverse fortnight full of adventure, sun and al fresco eating. BRISBANE – for eclectic urban diners For those seeking variety and a dynamic city buzz, Queensland’s capital boasts an eclectic dining culture. From elegant rooftop bars and fine-dining restaurants to hipster hangouts, there’s something for every taste. Fortitude Valley, known by locals as The Valley, is a neighbourhood with a buzzing food scene, culture and nightlife. Grab a coffee from trendy King Arthur Café then browse leafy James Street’s upmarket boutiques. Head into the laneways, a quirky network of small pedestrianised alleys brimming with intimate cafes, boutique bars and pop-up studios. Order colourful poke bowls from Raw + Rice on palm tree-lined California Lane, tuck into juicy patties at Ben’s Burgers down Winn Lane or book a spot at tiny omakase-style eatery Joy on Bakery Lane. Work up an appetite by kayaking down the Brisbane River, drinking up the views and spotting where you can head for lunch or dinner. Down by the river, beneath the iconic Story Bridge is the impressive, recently renovated Howard Smith Wharves. Reward yourself with Brisbane-brewed beer and pizzas at Felons Brewing Co. on the water’s edge. For more stunning city views along the water there’s also Mr Percival’s for sunset spritzes, Greca for contemporary Greek taverna food and the rooftop bar at arty hotel The Fantauzzo. To discover more of the city’s art scene, join a street-art tour with Brisbane Greeters to explore murals and local characters. SCENIC RIM – for farm-to-fork followers If you want to taste some of the best produce Queensland has to offer then take a foodie road trip through this breath-taking rural region; home to a warm, friendly community of farmers, convivial micro-producers and beautiful surrounds. Amongst Boonah’s timber-clad houses you’ll find Oppy’s Fruit and Veg, a charming farm shop housed in a former butter factory. Stock up on fresh produce (such as silverbeet, rosella flower jam and Rathlogan olives) from the surrounding farms and stop at Arthur Clive’s Bakery Café for lamingtons, local meat pies and picnic supplies. Don’t miss the Scenic Rim Brewery for craft beers including Digga’s Pale Ale, Fat Man’s Maroon Ale and Tasmanian cider – and the brewery’s heritage-listed, Wes Anderson-esque building is worth a visit in its own right. Continue a few minutes down the road for a long lunch at Kooroomba Vineyard’s restaurant. Here, enjoy Running Creek beef carpaccio, crispy Tasmanian salmon and lavender ice cream with macadamia crumb, paired with Australian wines and a backdrop of lavender fields, vines and mountains. Just remember that if you’re planning to sample some of the local brews and wines, make sure to organise a local driver. NOOSA – for laid-back sun-seekers Travellers wanting to make the most of the Sunshine Coast’s superb weather should head to this chilled-out surfing spot. The leafy beach town is bordered by Noosa River, the Coral Sea and Noosa National Park, so you’ll have plenty to explore during your trip. Start the day with a locally roasted Clandestino Coffee at one of the town’s many sociable cafes and al fresco brunch spots – the terrace of FOMO coffee is a great place to meet locals. After that you can work up an appetite koala spotting along the coastal trail through Noosa National Park, kayaking through the Everglades or getting involved in the local surf scene. Join locals on the terraces that spill out onto tree-lined Hastings Street, parallel to the beach. Try Massimo’s Gelateria for tropical ice cream, Betty’s Burgers and Concrete Co. to sink into some of Australia’s best burgers and Café Le Monde for cocktails and oysters with a surfer crowd. Watch people ride the waves at Sunshine Beach then wander over to Sum Yung Guys for the likes of king prawn toast, lemongrass chicken fritters and roast sweet potato salad. For seafood overlooking the ocean, there’s Ricky’s River Bar in Noosa Heads, Wasabi on Noosa waterfront and Sails on Main Beach – enjoy Queensland crayfish, barramundi and coral trout. TROPICAL NORTH – for intrepid travellers For foodies craving a bit of adventure, head to Queensland’s lush tropical north. Start at eco-luxe Silky Oaks Lodge, perched on the Mossman River. Head out on a kayaking adventure to spot local wildlife then feast on contemporary Australian dishes with a native twist, using tropical ingredients such as smoked barramundi, pickled papaya and rainforest herbs at the hotel’s Treehouse restaurant. Start the day with a hearty breakfast then drive down alongside the Mossman River to Cooya Beach, where you can join an Indigenous tour with Walkabout Cultural Adventures to forage the beach and mangroves for mud crabs. Explore more of the Daintree Rainforest, the world’s oldest tropical rainforest by downloading the Daintree Food Trail map and uncover orchards, fisheries and micro-dairies amongst the lush greenery. The most inquisitive will be rewarded with the likes of lychee gelato, rainforest honey and goat chorizo, as well as chances to meet friendly producers and uncover stories from small communities. You can even stay overnight on a tropical fruit farm. Whatever your taste, Queensland has something for everyone. For more information on a delectable foodie getaway served with a side of adventure, a healthy dose of nature and rich culture, visit queensland.com. Images courtesy of Tourism and Events Queensland
Sydney foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
Eat your way around Australia’s vibrant east coast city via kingfish ceviche, laksa flecked with chillies and lime and peanut butter parfait with chocolate ice cream
The iconic Opera House and majestic Harbour Bridge, miles of sandy beaches, swish suburbs and crisp, clear light: Sydney is one of the world’s great cities. And one of its most foodie. The locals love eating out so there are great restaurants, bars and cafés to choose from whatever your appetite, with Asian cuisine a staple and a definite Middle Eastern culinary scene emerging. Australia is also the land of brunch, kicking Italian coffee into touch with a stellar home-grown coffee culture and introducing the world to avocado on toast. Best brunch spots in Sydney A1 Canteen – best for global flavours East meets West on the menu at this industrial café, home to some of the most interesting brunches in town. Za’atar eggs come with tangy braised rainbow chard, while a lip-smackingly good XO crab omelette has salty undertones from a touch of finely chopped dried fish, as well as a light hum from fresh red chilli. a1canteen.com.au Concrete Jungle – best for Insta appeal Become the envy of your Instagram followers at this feed-friendly café. It serves pretty plates of food that, thankfully, also taste rocking. There are a lot of plant-based dishes, including smoothie bowls and a dish of incredible beetroot hummus with sumac tomatoes. Brunch is brilliant, with an all-day selection of eggs and the obligatory smashed avocado. concretejunglecafe.com Reuben Hills – best for coffee Coffee roaster, ethical sourcer and incredible café all wrapped up in one gorgeous location on a sleepy street in Surry Hills. The coffee is the best in Sydney (fact!) and the menu knockout. Fried tortilla chilaquiles are drenched in yogurt, salty feta and sumac, and the café’s take on the infamous breakfast bun (a Sydney staple found in different guises on every brunch menu worth its salt) comes with bacon jam, chipotle aioli and a smashed omelette. reubenhills.com.au Best Middle Eastern restaurants in Sydney Nomad – best for seafood Located in sizzling Surry Hills, this epic Lebanese-inspired restaurant has a modern menu and a buzzy open-plan dining room. Everything is cooked over wood-fired grills, giving the food a sensational smoky taste. Standout dishes include charred octopus with salty chorizo, kingfish ceviche served in a tart lime dressing, and spiced cauliflower on a slick of creamy labna. nomadwine.com.au Tayim – best for a date-night dinner The Rocks neighbourhood would not be the first choice for a date-night dinner; it’s tourist-tastic. But Tayim breaks the mould. Hidden down a quiet alleyway, in a beautiful stone building, this intimate restaurant serves up a decent meze board to start, with lovely creamy hummus, thick labna and crisp falafel. Mains are equally exciting and the chermoula rainbow trout is face-plant food – tender, juicy fish encrusted with spices and made luxurious with decadent hazelnut butter. tayim.com.au Nour – best for new wave Middle Eastern dining This casual neighbourhood restaurant in Surry Hills has a serious menu that really showcases the best of Middle Eastern cuisine. Kifta nayyeh, a sensational raw lamb tartare, comes beautifully spiced and covered in melted butter. Prawn dumplings are plump and juicy, enriched with chilli yogurt. For the main event, try a classic Lebanese dish called samke harra (a juicy baby snapper served with an intense tahini sauce). noursydney.com Best Asian dining in Sydney Chin Chin – best for southeast-Asian cooking This riotous Asian restaurant is the fun, naughty cousin to the Melbourne restaurant of the same name. In a huge exposed-brick dining room, lit neon pink, you can feast on shared plates of silky-soft kingfish sashimi with coconut and Thai basil, huge shell-on scallops swimming in a fiery chilli sambal and Chin Chin’s signature dish, beef brisket massaman curry, full of fragrant spices and enrobed in a wickedly claggy peanut sauce. Come for the food and stay for the cocktails. It’s a blast. chinchinrestaurant.com.au/sydney Chinese Dumpling Master – best for Beijing dumplings With several sites across the capital, all with the same not-so-chic plastic tables and school dinner chairs, these little restaurants don’t look like much on first appearance. But boy do they pack a serious punch. It’s here that you’ll find the best Beijing dumplings in Sydney, all of them plump and juicy, and a steal at just under $13 for 12. Or try the mighty hand-pulled Xinjiang noodles, beautifully textured and flavoured with light soy and garlic, for an authentic taste of northern Chinese food. In fact, order both and roll home afterwards. instagram.com/chinese_dumpling_master Queen Chow – best for a night out With a cute cocktail bar and bright, breezy, first-floor dining room, this lively Asian restaurant is perfect for a fun Friday night. Fill the table with bowls of deliciousness. How does peppery squid, lightly steamed dim sum, unctuous honey-glazed pork char siu and black bean Wagyu beef sound? To be frank, there’s little on the menu that’s not worth ordering. It’s slap-bang in the middle of Newtown, a hip neighbourhood that’s packed with cool bars, so hang around for an after-dinner nightcap. merivale.com/venues/queenchow Spice Alley – best for Asian street food Just off Kensington Street (a foodie find in itself, with a great selection of restaurants and bars), Spice Alley is a collection of hawker stalls selling fast and furious Asian dishes, all brilliantly priced. Take your pick from Malaysian, Chinese, Indonesian or Japanese cuisine – sink into an authentic laksa flecked with chillies and lime, nutty nasi lemak or kecap manis squid. Everything is made to order and you can grab a cold beer while you wait. spicealley.com.au Best bars in Sydney Willie the Boatman – best for craft beers Kick back in the tasting room of one of Sydney’s hottest independent breweries, where you can take a seat and choose from one of 20 beers (all made using Australian hops) or grab a tasting flight of four fabulous brews. Try the Old Salty, a German-inspired Gosê beer made with coriander. It has a salty, mineral taste that is utterly addictive. willietheboatman.com Earl’s Juke Joint – best Sydney speakeasy Hidden behind a butcher’s shop facade in Newtown this swinging speakeasy is heaps of fun. It serves a wide selection of well-crafted cocktails, plus very quaffable ready-mixed drinks on tap. Try a refreshing Jazzy Jeff Spritz, made with Aperol, tequila and melon. facebook.com/earlsjukejoint The Barber Shop – best for gin Another speakeasy, this time hidden behind a barbers’ shop, this Dickensian spot in central Sydney puts the focus on gin. Slouch into a sofa and sip a Spice Trade, a decadent cocktail made with gin, dry sherry and orange sugar syrup. Or order a Desert Bazaar, a cool concoction of absinthe, gin, star anise and lemon curd. thisisthebarbershop.com Mojo Record Bar – best for beer and beats Basement bars don’t get much better than Mojo Record Bar, a subterranean vinyl store and beer bar. It’s dark and dingy in all the right ways – a rock ‘n’ roller’s paradise, where you can fall into a red leather booth and put the world to rights over a few well-produced Ozzie tinnies. Mojo Record Bar Best out of town restaurants near Sydney Barrenjoey House – best for all-day dining Set on the glistening Northern Beaches coastline, this all-day brasserie and boutique hotel is ideal if you need time out from the city. It’s swanky enough to warrant frocking up but also relaxed enough to settle in for a decadent meal. The food is beautifully prepared and the menu casual. Think coral-pink tuna spaghetti, juicy steak tartare or battered cod. Make sure you save room for the peanut butter parfait with chocolate ice cream, a hot mess that gets better and better as it melts. Sheer heaven. barrenjoeyhouse.com.au The Boat House – best for tables with a view On Palm Beach, of Home and Away fame, this roaring beach restaurant is the perfect spot to put your feet up after a hike in the surrounding area. Think Hamptons-style chic, with whitewashed tables on a terrace that extends right out over the sea. Order champagne and oysters and admire the coastline (some of the finest in the region). theboathousegroup.com.au Coogee Pavilion – best for long, lazy lunches This huge restaurant and bar has three floors, all heaving with brilliant booze, wood-fired pizzas and mouth-watering Mediterranean cuisine. The best place to hang out is on the roof, a plush haven with panoramic views of Coogee Beach. Indulge in a bucket-load of ice-cold rosé and enjoy plates of charred octopus with chilli and capers, ’nduja-flecked Kinawooka mussels and whole baby snapper. It’s an ideal spot for a long, lazy lunch. merivale.com/venues/coogeepavilion Watsons Bay Boutique – best for sunset dining With an enviable location right by the sea, this banging beach restaurant is the perfect destination for a day trip. There are several terraces to choose from and a modern menu of sensational seafood, comforting classics and salads. The sunset is truly magical here – watch the whole of downtown Sydney twinkle, as the sky fades into another epic evening. watsonsbayhotel.com.au Return flights from Heathrow or Manchester to Sydney, via Abu Dhabi, cost from £697 (etihad.com) Words and photographs by John Gregory-Smith
We've found some of the world’s best beer-based experiences, from a boozy walking tour of Berlin's coolest neighbourhood to a brewery-to-brewery road trip along the Norwegian coast
Looking for breweries to visit in the USA? Want to partake in the best beer tastings in Norway? Check out 10 of the best craft beer trips around the world here… Want to find the best beers? Check out our favourite British beers, lagers, IPAs beers, sour beers, winter beers to try and our guide to craft beers here. For cocktail lovers, we also have our best beer cocktails. Brews and Bites tour, Portland Portland is just as famous for its craft breweries as it is for its colourful food carts. Eat Adventures lets you indulge in both with a four-hour Brews and Bites tour, during which you’ll chat with chefs, taste locally inspired dishes and visit three breweries for seasonal samples, including Flamingo Planet Guava Blonde Ale (a fruit-forward beer brewed with guava) at the astronomy-themed Ecliptic Brewing. If you’re visiting during the first weekend of July don’t miss the annual Portland Craft Beer Festival; it features only beer, cider and wine that’s crafted within Portland’s city limits. The festival also segues nicely into Oregon Craft Beer Month. Great Swedish Beer Festival, Malmö As with so much food and drink in Sweden’s southern Skåne’ region, the approach to brewing is experimental but detail-driven. It’s no great surprise that, in recent years, a crop of microbreweries has grown up among the forests and fields of this beer-drinking district. So popular are the ensuing products, in fact, that a whole new festival – the Great Swedish Beer Festival – has been launched, to shine a light on exclusively independent Swedish craft beer brewers, food trucks and musicians. If you can’t make it to Malmö for kick-off on 26 October, the next best plan is to plot your own tour around some of Skåne’s best microbreweries. Top of your list should be Malmö Brewing, a taproom right in the city centre that does a brisk trade in Canned Wheat IPA, hopped with citra and full of juicy mandarin-orange flavour. Here's where to eat and drink while you're in the city... Beer and cider route, Norway Specialist tour operator UpNorway offers a dream trip for craft-beer pilgrims: a self-guided ten-day road trip that incorporates beer and cider tastings. Starting in Bergen and (eventually) returning via the Hurtigruten car-ferry from Florø, you’ll visit Ægir microbrewery in Flåm and Kinn brewery in Florø (try the latter’s Hipsteren, a coffee-flavoured ale that’s a local collaboration between brewers 7 Fjell Bryggeri and coffee roasters Sognefjord Kaffibrenneri). Along the way, admire waterfalls from the Scenic Route Hardanger, visit cider farms, enjoy Norwegian cuisine and stay at Skjolden Hotel, set inside the world’s longest fjord. Brewery walking tour, Berlin While beer has always been a focus for tourism in Germany, Berlin has also recently embraced the microbrewery renaissance. To get your cultural and hops fix in one, take a two-hour private walking tour of one of its coolest neighbourhoods, Kreuzberg, in the company of a WithLocals guide. Among its highlights is the chance to try Schopper Hell, a beer carefully brewed at low temperatures to produce a distinct, unfiltered taste. Try to time your visit for July, when the 10-day Berlin Beer Week hosts a variety of scheduled events across the city, from beer-matched dinners to boozy boat trips. Beer, baking and bathing, Japan Hinotani Brewery, in Japan’s Mie prefecture, makes an enticing getaway for beer lovers given that nearby Misugi Resort (part-owned by Hinotani’s brewmaster) incorporates all manner of hop-based activities for guests. Here you can make bread with beer yeast in a stone kiln, stay in a beer-themed room (help yourself to the draft taps), and bathe in an onsen that releases craft beer into hot natural spring water every 30 minutes (it’s excellent for the skin, apparently). For a more educational experience, sign up for one of Hinotani’s one-hour microbrewery tours, during which you can taste beers made with organic rice sourced from local farmers. Try the award-winning Hinotani lager, which is lightly grassy with citrus notes. Craft beer and pizza, Chicago The Windy City has the largest metropolitan concentration of breweries in America (167 and counting). Start with a stroll around Ravenswood’s Malt Row (renowned for its beer diversity) where brunch comes with beer pairing at Michelin-starred brewpub, Band of Bohemia. Or check out Chicago’s inaugural ‘coolship’, a fermentation vessel at Dovetail Brewery that spawned Dovetail’s first ‘kriek’ – a beer in the style of a Belgian fruit lambic, which is racked over tart Michigan-grown Balaton cherries. To get the most out of your visit, plan a trip during the annual Craft Beer & Pizza Festival (held over two days each July) and sample more than 70 craft beers in one location. Copenhagen Beerwalk Mikkeller is to craft beer what Noma is to food in Copenhagen, attracting connoisseurs from around the world. There are various Mikkeller outlets across the city, including one at the airport, but the microbrewery’s reach extends much further than bar-hopping. If you’re visiting in May, there’s a choice of two festivals: Mikkeller’s Beer Celebration and the Copenhagen Beer Festival, both of which include the fruits of various breweries around the world alongside the company’s own beers. Or, to take things at your own pace any time of year, try a self-guided Copenhagen Beerwalk: select four breweries, the order in which you visit them and how much time you spend at each place. Don’t miss Brewer’s Inc, where a winning beer made by a Danish homebrewer is chosen each quarter, and then brewed at the microbrewery to serve on tap. Craft beer and saunas, Tallinn Over the past decade, a craft-beer revolution has been quietly brewing in Estonia, not least in the country’s tech-savvy capital, Tallinn. Wander the cobblestoned Old Town to soak up some history, then head to Telliskivi Creative City, a former industrial complex turned artistic hub, for brews at Pudel and Humalakoda. Don’t miss the Põhjala Tap Room at Noblessner harbour, where you can have a sauna in the brewery then re-hydrate with the company’s Forest Series brews, made with locally foraged ingredients. The Mets Black IPA is a refreshing choice, with hand-picked spruce tips, forest blueberries and subtle coffee notes. Good Beer Week, Melbourne May is an ideal month for craft-beer fans to visit Melbourne – Good Beer Week incorporates both the Melbourne outlet of the GABS (Great Australasian Beer Spectacular) festival and the Australian International Beer Awards. So wide-ranging are these combined events that even the most focused drinkers could be paralysed by choice, but fortunately the Good Beer Week program is curated into four streams: Foodie, Beer Lover, Beer Geek and Good Times. Our tip is to head firmly for the Foodie stream and take your pick from BBQ and beer pairing sessions, seasonal beer and wine feasts, the chance to snack on smoked beers with smoked foods, a degustation of vegan eats and sips and more – many cooked by some of the city’s most inspiring chefs. Don’t miss Australia’s first female-owned brewery, Two Birds Brewing, and its Passion Victim: a pale summer ale infused with passion fruit purée. Great Taste Trail, New Zealand Set off along the South Island’s Great Taste Trail and you can enjoy a picturesque cycling trip around Nelson, New Zealand’s craft beer capital, as part of your two-wheel adventure. The full 174km circuit takes in some of the country’s best breweries, wineries and food stops but the route has many access points and loops, so can be tailored for any length of trip. The Gentle Cycling Company offers a 16km Great Taste Beer day trip, for instance, that covers two breweries and two pubs along the Trail, including Eddyline Brewery and its Pozzy Pale Ale, made with native Motueka and Riwaka hops. Written by Karyn Noble
Foodie road trip in Australia's McLaren Vale wine region
Drive just 45 minutes south from Adelaide to discover South Australia’s best-kept secret – a laid-back land of eccentric winemakers, abundant farmers’ markets, wild beaches and gourmet boutique hotels
Want to tour Mclaren Vale wineries? Hop on one of Mclaren Vale's wine tours and visit Australia's wine region south of Adelaide... Until now the Fleurieu peninsula has been South Australia’s best-kept secret. In Adelaide, the state capital, locals tend to innocently point tourists towards the Barossa and Clare Valleys, or to tourist hot spot Kangaroo Island, which dangles off the peninsula’s southern tip. Yet with Fleurieu (pronounced floo-ree-oh) just a 45-minute drive away – virtually Adelaide’s backyard – they’re starting to get wise. The Fleurieu has a Mediterranean climate, laid-back vibe, wild, windswept beaches (you might recognise the glorious sweep of Maslin Beach from Russell Crowe’s film The Water Diviner), swathes of silvery olive groves, a clutch of field-to-fork eateries and farmers’ markets along with more than 70 boutique wineries. Within the peninsula, McLaren Vale is the birthplace of the South Australian wine industry and home to some of the world’s oldest grapevines. This is shiraz country, the vineyards rolling right down to the beach. The cooling winds flowing from the Mount Lofty Ranges to the coast also create the perfect climate for cabernet sauvignon and grenache. Mclaren Vale Wineries What is McLaren Vale's USP? Most of the cellar doors are family owned, not commercial. Whether they’re the old brigade or the new vanguard, they’re all one-offs. D'Arenberg Wine-making is full of complexities. McLaren Vale’s larger-than-life winemaker, Chester Osborn, pondered how to showcase this strange alchemy. His response was the d’Arenberg Cube, a dazzling glass and steel structure that has been dubbed ‘Willy Wonka’s wine factory’. A wonderfully bonkers box of a building, it materialises, Tardis-like, out of the vines like a half-finished Rubik’s Cube. As you approach, eyes entranced by an optical illusion at the entrance, soft music (activated by weather stations among the vines) lures you in. Inside the five-storey attraction, restaurant and tasting rooms, visitors take a surreal Alice in Wonderland trip through a sensory aroma room padded with blowsy rose heads and strung with bottles of fragrant fruit and flowers, past a psychedelic art installation and a virtual fermenter, emerging into a light, bright rooftop tasting area. There you can sample wines with names as intoxicating as the vintages: The Anthropocene Epoch is the company’s first biodynamic wine, all ballsy beetroot and berries. The Athazagoraphobic Cat (a blend of sagrantino and cinsault grapes) is squeaky new leather and herbs laced with mouth-puckering tannins, while The Old Bloke & the Three Young Blondes’ gnarly wood and spice-steeped shiraz is tempered with three flirty floral, fruit-frilled whites (roussanne, viognier and marsanne). Love it or loathe it, the d’Arenberg Cube has put the Fleurieu Peninsula on the map since launching at the end of last year. darenberg.com.au Bekkers vineyard Stop at the pared-back, sleekly styled tasting room at Bekkers vineyard. Australian/French couple Toby and Emmanuelle Bekkers produce just three wines: a grenache, syrah grenache and a syrah. The 2016 grenache has a hint of aniseed. The 2015 had more clove on the palate, Emmanuelle tells us. The syrah grenache is silkier: adding syrah to the mix changes the texture, she explains. The syrah is intense, dense but still silky. bekkerswine.com Hugh Hamilton: The fifth generation to oversee one of the region’s most picturesque wineries (hughhamiltonwines.com.au). Wirra Wirra: Biodynamic Wirra Wirra dates back to 1894 and its winemakers like to hurl watermelons from a medieval siege machine – it’s their thing (wirrawirra.com). Samuel’s Gorge: A rustic cellar up a dirt track in an old olive mill overlooking the Onkaparinga Gorge (gorge.com.au). Alpha Box & Dice: One of the new kids on the block, this young team produces small-batch vintages, the cellar a ramshackle old stable strewn with vintage armchairs, a piano, pinball machine and stuffed armadillo (alphaboxdice.com). McLaren Vale wine tours A handful of specialist companies offer wine-tasting tours if you don’t want to worry about drinking and driving... Off Piste Tours: Jump into Ben Neville’s 4x4 and head off the beaten track, exploring the lesser-known side of the Fleurieu. Bump along dusty dirt tracks in the Onkaparinga River National Park, stopping safari-style on a hillside to sip a glass of local viognier as kangaroos hop among the trees, before careering down a dirt track lined with rustling red gum eucalyptus for a riverside picnic. offpistetours.com.au Wine Diva Tours: Clamber into Greg Linton's car to visit some of the region's unique wineries. More info here: winedivatours.com.au The Shiraz Trail: If you’d rather go under your own steam you can cycle The Shiraz Trail, a four-mile route along an old railway line between McLaren Vale and Willunga. Where to eat in the McLaren Vale Bocca di Lupo at Minimalist Mitolo For lunch in the McLaren Vale swing by this starkly modern winery. Minimalist Mitolo looks as though it’s been constructed out of shipping containers and has an industrial vibe. The on-site restaurant, Bocca di Lupo, combines contemporary Australian and Italian cuisine in innovative dishes such as baby beetroots, liquorice sponge, walnut and chocolate, and charcoal maltagliati with asparagus, lemon and truffle parmesan. mitolowines.com.au Star of Greece Pull up outside legendary seafood restaurant, Star of Greece, a rickety beach shack teetering on the clifftop at Port Willunga. The Fleurieu is also famous for its fish, the King George whiting in particular. Tuck into fish and chips Fleurieu style, along with Kangaroo Island salt and pepper squid, citrus aïoli and lime, watching surfers in the waves far below. starofgreece.com.au The Salopian Inn At The Salopian Inn chef-owner Karena Armstrong serves contemporary Australian dishes such as soy-braised kangaroo tail with chilli caramel and szechuan salt. salopian.com.au Pizzateca Try gourmet wood-fired pizzas such as fontina, salami and homemade chilli chutney, or homemade pork and fennel sausages with wood-smoked mozzarella, fior di latte and freshly sliced fennel. pizza-teca.com Willunga Farmer's Market Graze your way round Willunga Farmers’ Market. The first in South Australia, established in 2002, it hosts around 80 artisan producers, and holds special night markets with live music. Willunga is a picture-postcard heritage town with just a whiff of the Wild West. Mooch around stalls of organic fruit and vegetables, local honey, charcuterie and cheeses and buy bags of juicy peaches and tiny, crunchy Paradise pears. Little Acre Foods stand has long queues but it is worth the wait for moreish mushroom panini oozing deep, dark mushrooms smeared with melted raclette and gruyère. willungafarmersmarket.com.au Port Elliot and around After a few days in McLaren Vale venture south to the tip of the peninsula, jutting into the Southern Ocean. Here you’ll find the old Victorian seaside resort of Victor Harbor, 19th-century town Goolwa (renowned for its cockles and the mouth of the Murray River) and the Coorong National Park. Port Elliot Bakery Driving through quaint Port Elliot with its low-slung old buildings, cool beach boutiques, old-fashioned grocery stores and heritage trail, clock the queue snaking out the door of the legendary Port Elliot Bakery, famous for its meat pies. portelliotbakery.com Flying Fish This seafood restaurant on the gentle curve of sand at Horseshoe Bay specialises in the likes of scallops with wasabi and ginger, Streaky Bay King George Whiting (battered, grilled or herb-crumbed), and lemon peppered squid. flyingfishcafe.com.au The Beach Huts The Beach Huts in Middleton, just two blocks from a fabulously wild stretch of sand, are little clapboard cottages, candy coloured and cute. Noosa hut is retro-chic with soaring white ceilings and a mid-century vibe. In the fridge you'll find breakfast provisions – along with a complimentary bottle of bubbly from Langhorne Creek. beachhuts.com.au McLaren Vale accommodation Along with gourmet boutique hotel The Australasian (australasian1858.com) and rustic restaurant, art gallery, cellar door and b&b Red Poles (redpoles.com.au), a handful of new winery sleepovers are opening up, including Hotel California Road, a micro-hotel at Inkwell Wines (inkwellwines.com). The Vineyard Retreat The Vineyard Retreat is a cluster of four luxury cottages on a 15-acre working vineyard. These have a New England vibe – think wraparound verandas, wood-burning stoves, a smattering of antlers, tongue and groove, taupe and cream colour palettes, soaring ceilings and sweeping views over regimented rows of shiraz and old grenache vines. In August, owners Anthea and Stu Cross added a luxury ‘cadole’ glamping pod to the mix with another one to follow later in the year (cadoles were small vineyard huts used for centuries in France). The couple bought the property five years ago because they fell in love with the views – some of the best are from the hilltop hot tub. The cottages’ well-stocked kitchens include welcome packs of local produce including smoked bacon from Ellis Butchers (ellisbutchers.com), free-range eggs and a bottle of chilled viognier from nearby Yangarra Estate Vineyard in the fridge (yangarra.com). You can also order local tasting platters from Lisa Robertson at Waywood Wines – on my second night I devour goat’s curd, crusty bread, duck, pork and fig terrine, a beetroot dip, fig chutney, traditional saucisson, camembert and quince paste (waywoodwines.com). thevineyardmv.com.au How to get to McLaren Vale Australia's Fleurieu Peninsula Return flights from London Heathrow to Melbourne via Abu Dhabi start at £696 (etihad.com). Return flights from Melbourne to Adelaide start from £120 (virginaustralia.com). For more info see southaustralia.com. Follow Lucy on Instagram and Twitter @lucygillmore
Tassie may once have been seen as a sleepy backwater, but the island’s creative food scene now attracts chefs and tourists keen to try charcoal and blackcurrant cordial, dived-to-order sea urchins and sheep-whey vodka
Looking for places to eat in Tasmania? Read about our foodie road trip in Tasmania, including places to stay and eat in Hobart, Tasmania's riverside capital. It might be the gateway to Antarctica, but Hobart is hotter than Hades. Not in meteorological terms, of course – Tasmania, Australia’s southernmost state, is closer to Shetland in temperature than Sicily, but its culinary scene is sizzling. Whispers of the island’s lotus-eater pace of life and bountiful natural larder – from oysters and abalone plucked straight from the sea to wagyu beef and Cape Grim rainwater so clean they bottle it – has caused a stampede of hotshot chefs moving over from the mainland (read about Sarah Glover below). There’s plenty of homegrown Tasmanian talent too. This is an island of innovators and oddballs who love nothing more than to shake things up a little. Got some sheep? Lets make vodka from the sheep’s cheese whey. Whisky? Why not knock up a still in the barn and use a tumble dryer as a malting machine? Campfire cook up with Sarah Glover Instagram favourite Sarah Glover swapped life as a pastry chef in Sydney and New York to rediscover her culinary roots – and became a poster girl for outdoor cooking along the way – back on her home turf of Tasmania (her new cookbook, WILD, a collaboration with photographer Luisa Brimble, is part recipe collection, part adventure handbook). sarahglover.com.au Where to eat and drink in Hobart, Tasmania Faro at Mona (Museum of Old and New Art) Tasmania’s big-guns-blazing attraction is the creation of one man’s whimsy. David Walsh’s phenomenal art collection is wonderfully bonkers, irreverent and also home to one of the hottest tables in town, Faro (there’s a winery, Moorilla, next door for post-culture-vulture tastings; moorilla.com.au). Faro, the tapas bar and restaurant, is all brushed concrete, black tiles and huge picture windows looking out over the water. Sip a Night is Day, a black mocktail made with active charcoal, tonic water and homemade blackcurrant cordial, before a lunch of tender chargrilled octopus on a bed of deliciously smoky aubergine purée and punchy, pungent pickles. mona.net.au Gourmania food tour Over the past few years, Hobart has evolved into a hotbed of culinary innovation and the energy is palpable. A Gourmania food tour is a good way to get your gastronomic bearings and have a taste of the city. gourmaniafoodtours.com.au Pigeon Whole Bakers Pop in to the white marble-and-glass bakery, Pigeon Whole Bakers, for a sugary swirl of cardamom-laced carbs. A counter is laid with freshly assembled pastries, while bread loaves of all shapes and sizes (try the popular organic sourdough) spill out of wooden crates at the back. pigeonwholebakers.com.au Franklin – for industrial chic dining Another Sydney stowaway is Analiese Gregory, who now heads up the kitchen at Hobart hotspot Franklin. All polished concrete, cowhides and diaphanous drapes, it has an industrial vibe. We start with raw albacore tuna with tomatillo and soy-cured egg yolk, gossamer-light yet rich. Next we tuck into raw Bruny Island wallaby with pickled mulberry, mushroom and fresh horseradish. The combination is ridiculously moreish. For dessert there’s feather-light whipped brown butter and salted caramel, sandwiched between wafer-thin crispy potato rectangles. It looks brown and bland but tastes sweetly sensational. Happy in her new home, Analiese admits: “I had real chef envy when I visited from Sydney. There’s such a great energy here.” And then there’s the produce – sweet sea urchins can be scooped from the seabed and be on the table by lunchtime. franklinhobart.com.au Salamanca Market Graze your way around the Saturday Salamanca Market to sample artisan leatherwood honey, Tasmanian truffle oil and salt (tastruffles.com.au) – and sheep-whey vodka. Knock back a thimble sized measure of the 12-month oaked vodka and savour its beautiful butterscotch sweetness. Institut Polaire – for wine and martinis With more cool white marble and grey leather, this bar has chilly class and shakes up icy Sud Polaire Antarctic dry martinis. Pulling up a bar stool, however, we're swayed by its micro-batch Domaine Simha wines: the Rani riesling has notes of wildflower honey, the 2015 chardonnay citrus, white peaches, apricots and a hint of vanilla. institutpolaire.com.au Willing Bros – for wine There’s now a slew of cool wine bars in Hobart, including bare-brick watering hole Willing Bros. Here you can sit at the marble counter and choose a bottle from the rack. 'Wine food' includes charcuterie served with homemade piccalilli and sourdough, marinated olives or plates of Tasmanian and European cheeses. @WillingBros Ettie's – for speakeasy vibes with food Ettie’s, a basement piano bar and bistro, for late-night night candlelit lounging. The European bistro-inspired menu focuses on Tasmanian produce. Start with Pacific oysters and country terrine with sherry prunes, before the likes of roasted duck ravioli, red wine and radicchio risotto with gorgonzola, and octopus, white beans and ‘nduja vinaigrette. Or, pop in for a glass of wine in the bottle-stacked wine room on the ground floor. etties.com.au Fico - for a hip bistro Tiny hipster eateries are springing up all over town. We can’t vouch for Fico as it was closed for refurbishment, but enough people rolled their eyes when we mentioned the pared-back net-bistro to make us believe the hype. The produce is all sourced from locals, with whom the owners are on friendly first-name terms – pigeons from Phil, turnips from Tony and calamari from Ross. ficofico.net Dier Makr – for a tasting menu Dier Makr is downright alchemy. Kobi Ruzicka and Sarah Fitzsimmons wing it out front, performing culinary and mixological acrobatics in their hip hangout. The six-course tasting menu showcases unusual flavour combos. Perch at the counter and tuck into anchovies and lemon rind, a mouthful of intense oily saltiness with a sharp citrus edge. The mussels and turnip is extravagantly good, the baby turnips grilled, the larger turnips pickled and thinly sliced, and the fermented turnip paste giving the dish a pungent heat. All complemented by a tantalising, cloudy orange wine. diermakr.com Places to eat and drink in Tasmania on a foodie road trip Hartshorn Distillery and Grandvewe Farm Ryan Hartshorn of Hartshorn Distillery, aka the Vodka Shepherd, has taken the family farm off on a top-knot-friendly tangent. Not content with making cheese, he bought a still and started experimenting. The result is an award-winning vodka, its distinctive black bottles all hand-painted. You can also visit the farm, Grandvewe Cheeses, 25 miles south of Hobart, for a cheese-tasting or cheese-making session. They make eight different types including Brebichon, a sheep’s-milk version of reblochon (nutty and sweet) and Sapphire Blue, which is salty and creamy, like roquefort. grandvewe.com.au Tasmania Whisky Trail There’s more to Tasmanian wine these days than a cold-climate pinot. Along with cider (the island is known as the Apple Isle) and sheep-whey vodka, you can also down a dram or two on the Whisky Trail. The world woke up to Tasmanian whisky when Sullivans Cove French Oak won World’s Best Single Malt in 2014. Head out on a whisky-tasting tour with Brett Steel of Drink Tasmania (drinktasmania.com.au), through rolling farmland to bucolic Nant (nant.com.au), pioneering Old Kempton (oldkemptondistillery.com.au), Belgrove, and grand Shene Estate. taswhiskytrail.com Shene Estate Shene, a crumbling 19th-century estate, has been restored and given a new lease of life by David and Anne Kernke. In their smart timber distillery the couple make Irish-style triple-distilled whiskey and an award-winning gin, Poltergeist, infused with 12 native Tasmanian botanicals. shene.com.au Belgrove Estate Belgrove is as rustic as Shene is polished. Whisky-making maverick, Peter Bignell, is, Brett tells me, a creative genius. A sheep and arable farmer with a surplus of rye, he built his own copper still and started distilling in the old stables. An old tumble dryer in the yard is the malting machine. Black Rye, his take on Kahlúa, made with grappa, rye and coffee, is his biggest seller (for espresso martinis). Noma’s Rene Redzepi is a fan; when he created a pop-up in Sydney in 2016, he put Belgrove spirits on the menu. Surrounded by fields of barley, rye and wheat, it’s the ultimate paddockto-bottle set-up. “Or dirt to drink,” the whisky wizard says with a wry smile. belgrovedistillery.com.au The Agrarian Kitchen cookery school Tasmania’s first paddock-to-plate cookery school, meanwhile, is half an hour outside Hobart in the Derwent Valley. Rodney Dunn, one-time Sydney-based editor of Gourmet Traveller magazine, watched back-to-back box sets of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage before deciding to create an Tasmanian version. With his wife, Séverine, he founded The Agrarian Kitchen in 2008, a cookery school in a 19th-century schoolhouse on a farm in Lachlan. In 2017, he opened a light, bright eatery in nearby New Norfolk, celebrating local, seasonal and sustainable produce. We pitch up at the cookery school and wander around the garden with Séverine. The herb garden is brimming with lemon balm, Mexican tarragon, rosemary, thyme, chamomile and mint; the orchard’s branches are heavy with fruit; 100 types of tomatoes are growing in the polytunnels; and chickens and Wessex Saddleback pigs roam the fields. theagrariankitchen.com Tasmanian Seafood Seduction tour The small boat chugs out of the harbour along the Derwent River to the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, separating Tasmania from Bruny Island. Freshly shucked oysters come thick and fast, followed by oysters poached in champagne on deck. Lee, the guide, scrambles into his wetsuit and dives off the boat. Clambering up the ladder, his bag bursting with spiny sea urchins and abalone, lunch is a smorgasbord of sweet, saltwater-laced seafood: sustainable, hyper-local, seafloor-to-fork dining. It’s devilishly good. pennicottjourneys.com.au Hobart Tasmania hotels <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=71026X1546147&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fsearchresults.en-gb.html%3Flabel%3Dgen173nr-1FCAEoggI46AdIM1gEaFCIAQGYAS64ARjIAQzYAQHoAQH4AQuIAgGoAgQ%26lang%3Den-gb%26sid%3D33c3fa277f0d08b0b1bd2df681f354b8%26sb%3D1%26src%3Dsearchresults%26src_elem%3Dsb%26error_url%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fsearchresults.en-gb.html%3Flabel%3Dgen173nr-1FCAEoggI46AdIM1gEaFCIAQGYAS64ARjIAQzYAQHoAQH4AQuIAgGoAgQ%3Bsid%3D33c3fa277f0d08b0b1bd2df681f354b8%3Bac_click_type%3Db%3Bac_position%3D0%3Bcheckin_month%3D2%3Bcheckin_monthday%3D21%3Bcheckin_year%3D2019%3Bcheckout_month%3D2%3Bcheckout_monthday%3D22%3Bcheckout_year%3D2019%3Bcity%3D-1578440%3Bclass_interval%3D1%3Bdest_id%3D-1578440%3Bdest_type%3Dcity%3Bdtdisc%3D0%3Bfrom_sf%3D1%3Bgroup_adults%3D2%3Bgroup_children%3D0%3Bhighlighted_hotels%3D271318%3Binac%3D0%3Bindex_postcard%3D0%3Blabel_click%3Dundef%3Bno_rooms%3D1%3Boffset%3D0%3Bpostcard%3D0%3Braw_dest_type%3Dhotel%3Broom1%3DA%252CA%3Bsb_price_type%3Dtotal%3Bsearch_selected%3D1%3Bshw_aparth%3D1%3Bslp_r_match%3D0%3Bsrc%3Dsearchresults%3Bsrc_elem%3Dsb%3Bsrpvid%3D529173434e06008c%3Bss%3DThe%2520Henry%2520Jones%2520Art%2520Hotel%252C%2520Hobart%252C%2520Tasmania%252C%2520Australia%3Bss_all%3D0%3Bss_raw%3DHenry%2520Jones%2520Art%2520Hotel%3Bssb%3Dempty%3Bsshis%3D0%3Bssne_untouched%3DHobart%26%3B%26ss%3DTasmania%2C%2BAustralia%26is_ski_area%3D%26ssne%3DHobart%26ssne_untouched%3DHobart%26city%3D-1578440%26checkin_monthday%3D21%26checkin_month%3D2%26checkin_year%3D2019%26checkout_monthday%3D22%26checkout_month%3D2%26checkout_year%3D2019%26no_rooms%3D1%26group_adults%3D2%26group_children%3D0%26b_h4u_keep_filters%3D%26from_sf%3D1%26ss_raw%3Dtasmani%26ac_position%3D0%26ac_langcode%3Den%26ac_click_type%3Db%26dest_id%3D616%26dest_type%3Dregion%26place_id_lat%3D-42.112301%26place_id_lon%3D147.118779%26search_pageview_id%3D529173434e06008c%26search_selected%3Dtrue%26search_pageview_id%3D529173434e06008c%26ac_suggestion_list_length%3D5%26ac_suggestion_theme_list_length%3D0" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Looking for places to stay in Tasmania? Here are some boutique hotels in the area MACq 01 The glamorous new design hotel MACq 01 on Hobart’s harbour has architectural pizzazz and an imaginative concept: each of the 114 rooms is named after an extraordinary character in Tasmania’s colourful history (from Jørgen Jørgensen, king of Iceland turned Tasmanian convict, to Ma Dwyer, legendary landlady and madam of the local brothel) and guests can join complimentary door-to-door storytelling tours. <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=71026X1546147&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fhotel%2Fau%2Fmacq-01.en-gb.html%3Flabel%3Dgen173nr-1FCAEoggI46AdIM1gEaFCIAQGYAS64ARjIAQzYAQHoAQH4AQuIAgGoAgQ%26sid%3D33c3fa277f0d08b0b1bd2df681f354b8%26srpvid%3D3548732eaa31006a%26checkin%3D2019-02-21%26checkout%3D2019-02-22%26ucfs%3D1%26srpvid%3D3548732eaa31006a%26srepoch%3D1541175774%26highlighted_blocks%3D226853501_99206073_2_2_0%26all_sr_blocks%3D226853501_99206073_2_2_0%26room1%3DA%2CA%26hpos%3D1%26hapos%3D1%26dest_type%3Dcity%26dest_id%3D-1578440%26srfid%3D9a617c7f1ff35f21df8b44591477c7dc70c42bb9X1%26from%3Dsearchresults%3Bhighlight_room%3D%23hotelTmpl" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">For the best deals on rooms at MACq 01, click here macq01.com.au Henry Jones Art Hotel Wharf warehouse in style, this vision of slatted wood is in the same stable as the Henry Jones Art Hotel, also on the waterfront but set in an old jam-making factory. <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=71026X1546147&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fhotel%2Fau%2Fhenry-jones-art.en-gb.html%3Flabel%3Dgen173nr-1FCAEoggI46AdIM1gEaFCIAQGYAS64ARjIAQzYAQHoAQH4AQuIAgGoAgQ%26sid%3D33c3fa277f0d08b0b1bd2df681f354b8%26srpvid%3D529173434e06008c%26checkin%3D2019-02-21%26checkout%3D2019-02-22%26ucfs%3D1%26srpvid%3D529173434e06008c%26srepoch%3D1541175817%26highlighted_blocks%3D27131804_109167300_0_2_0%26all_sr_blocks%3D27131804_109167300_0_2_0%26room1%3DA%2CA%26hpos%3D1%26hapos%3D1%26dest_type%3Dcity%26dest_id%3D-1578440%26srfid%3D13e042ddff315a176d2430567017a439720b7427X1%26from%3Dsearchresults%3Bhighlight_room%3D%23hotelTmpl" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">For the best deals on rooms at Henry Jones Art Hotel, click here thehenryjones.com How to get to Tasmania Return flights from London Heathrow to Melbourne via Abu Dhabi start at £696 (etihad.com). Flights from Melbourne to Hobart start from $118 one way (virginaustralia.com). For more info see discovertasmania.com.au. Follow Lucy on Instagram and Twitter @lucygillmore.
Melbourne foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
Its multicultural make-up and an influx of pioneering chefs has helped Melbourne take the crown as Australia’s culinary capital. Whether you’re after cardamom and roast pistachio ice cream, a rooftop gin cocktail or whipped emu egg, the southeastern city caters for all
Want to know what to do in Melbourne? Read our foodie guide to where to eat, including the best restaurants in Melbourne. Melbourne food experiences If you want to find your foodie feet in Melbourne turn to Allan Campion. A chef turned food writer, with a library of cookbooks and food guides under his belt, Campion founded Melbourne Food Experiences in 2002. His food tours include the grazing and give you the lowdown on the secret spots you'd be mad to miss. Melbourne after Dark, for instance, steers you down tiny alleyways to some of the city's coolest cocktail bars, such as Union Electric's new rooftop gin bar, where the gin list includes Yarra Valley's Four Pillars - or go wild with a signature Lola cocktail, a heady ginger, gin, curacao and coconut cream concoction. melbournefoodexperiences.com.au The best coffee shops in Melbourne Where can you get a decent coffee in Melbourne? Cold-drip, AeroPress, siphon or espresso, flat white or long black? Coffee is king, customers are connoisseurs and baristas and micro-roasters are gods in Melbourne. This is the city that invented the flat white after all – or so they say (that's a latte with less milk and a smoother texture – it's all about the micro-bubbles). The roll call includes sleek, pared back Sensory Lab (which also holds barista classes), Market Lane (which roasts its own single origin beans and offers public cuppings - tastings) and Industry Beans (also famous for its bagels). marketlane.com.au; sensorylab.com.au; industrybeans.com Spring Street Grocer The Spring Street Grocer might sound like a local corner shop but it's not. Upstairs it's a gourmet food store but most miss the spiral staircase down to the extraordinary cheese cellar – and Australia's first underground cheese maturation rooms, where regular cheese tastings and workshops are held. Try Holy Goat artisan cheeses from Sutton Grange organic farm – Black Silk is a tangy, ash-coated, fresh curd pyramid. There's also a bakery and espresso bar and, on the way out, hit the gelato counter for what is - possibly - the best ice cream in the world. The seasonal selection changes daily with flavours including cardamom and roasted pistachio, chestnut and rosemary and an eye-poppingly refreshing watermelon and mint sorbet. springstreetgrocer.com.au Atlas Dining The hottest young chef in a city that sizzles with culinary talent is Charlie Carrington, whose innovative concept restaurant, Atlas Dining, combines his two passions: travel and cooking. Every four months he hits a different country, takes notes on native ingredients and key flavours and then distils them into a spectacular tasting menu. Since 2016 he's taken diners from Vietnam to Israel, Mexico to Korea and (currently) Peru. His Peruvian menu showcases flathead ceviche with avocado purée, sweet potato, onion and a zingy tomato and passion fruit jus while 'potato, ocopa, aji' is his kick-ass take on the tamale. There's also a nod to Peru's Japanese fusion cuisine: a roasted fig with a miso and smoked eel paste has a subtle smokiness, with lime giving a citrus hit. atlasdining.com.au Lamb, arroz, uchucuta at Atlas Dining Beechworth Honey This sleek boutique in the Block Arcade is all clean lines and stylised tree murals hiding shelves – stocked with honey: 37 different types. Beechworth Honey specialises in single-varietal Australian honey categorised by flavour style: Bee Delicate (mild and light), Bee Fruity (lively eucalypt honeys), Bee Warm (caramel and butterscotch notes) and Bee Bold (dark and strong). A complimentary tasting helps you to choose. Bee Delicate Ironbark is light, buttery and great with pancakes while Bee Fruity Green Mallee is a good marinade. Then there's the Bee Cause Landscape Honeys (river, mountain, coastal, meadow) launched to support the fourth generation family of beekeepers' work to save the Australian honeybees. beechworthhoney.com.au Attica No stranger to the world's best restaurant lists, Attica lives up to the hype. Ben Shewry's tasting menu takes you on the culinary ride of your life. Wash your hands first as you'll be using your fingers - and listening to tall tales. There's a narrative element to many of the dishes, such as An Imperfect History of Ripponlea in Three Tarts. Each of the bitesize tarts represents one of the communities that lived in Ripponlea: from the Bunurong people to the English and Jewish settlers. 'Our Vegemite, Our salada' is a nod to Aussie school kids (homemade vegemite, tomatoes and crackers) while 'Green Ant Pav' is a tiny savoury pavlova with a dusting of green ants for a citrus explosion. Dessert is 'whipped emu egg' in a vibrant emerald eggshell served with Daintree chocolate ice cream and quandong. attica.com.au QT In the psychedelic elevator of design hotel QT Melbourne the sassy voiceover might send you scurrying to the restroom on your way up to the award-winning rooftop bar: “you’re looking a little peaky go and rub some rouge in your cheeks”. The views are worth the confidence-kicking ride. Try a Tarty Twist (Tanqueray Gin, grapefruit, lime and rosemary infused syrup) or a Rooftop G&T (West Winds Sabre gin, elderflower quinine, fresh lime, cucumber, rosemary-infused sugar and Capi cucumber soda). Back on the ground floor there's also a Cake Shop and a branch of Japanese knife shop, Tanto, where chefs and foodies can have their knives sharpened or buy specialist sashimi-slicing blades such as the blue steel, ebony and black Australian buffalo husk handled Kiritsuke Hayate knife. qthotelsandresorts.com Annam Nudging up against Chinatown, Annam is not your run-of-the-mill Vietnamese. This pan-Asian joint, with its open-kitchen and martial arts movies playing on a loop, is the vision of chef Jerry Mai who founded popular pho and banh mi stalls, Pho Nom. Annam is an area between Cambodia and Vietnam and the flavours are a Vietnamese, Cambodian and Thai fusion with a nod to China – don't miss the signature oxtail dumplings braised in sarsaparilla. The Instagram-ready dishes are designed to share. Try the blackened, squid ink-coated cuttlefish with prickly ash, fried in a crunchy rice flour and Sichuan pepper batter. annam.com.au Charcoal Lane Charcoal Lane has not one but two USPs: this restaurant in funky Fitzroy dishes up an innovative take on 'bush tucker' and runs a training programme for disadvantaged and indigenous young people – a bit like Jamie Oliver's Fifteen. The menu of modern native Australian cuisine features starters such as roasted emu fillet with a Thai herb crust, sandalwood nut salad, quandong (a desert fruit) and witlof (chicory) while, for mains, you can tuck into chargrilled kangaroo with beetroot reduction and celeriac purée or Parma ham-wrapped wallaby. charcoallane.com.au Seafood and Oyster Spot At the Seafood and Oyster Spot, in Queen Victoria Market, they shuck 300 dozen oysters every Saturday (at Christmas that rises to 2,000 dozen a day). This historic landmark opened in 1878 and, spread over seven hectares, is the largest open-air market in the southern hemisphere. Inside you'll find organic butchers, fishmongers and a dairy hall – check out Curds and Whey, the last remaining butter specialist and cheesemongers. There are almost a thousand traders here. You can mooch around the stalls or take a guided market tour. qvm.com.au For more information see: visitmelbourne.com Words and photographs by Lucy Gillmore
Best places to eat and drink in Wellington
Eat your way around New Zealand’s craft beer and coffee capital, sampling barbecued halloumi skewers, kimchi croissants and lemon meringue pie doughnuts
Check out some of the best cafés, bars and restaurants in Wellington, New Zealand's foodie capital. Here you'll find local beers and interesting wines, lively bars and buzzy cafés. Check out our local food and drink guide to Wellington... Nikau Café Just off Civic Square, in the City Gallery, you’ll find Nikau Café. A stalwart of the city, it serves an inspired, NZ-produce-driven menu, with some of the best breakfasts in town. Beautiful coffee, an array of sweet treats, and sage fried eggs are standouts, but it’s most famous for its kedgeree. Harbourside Market The Wellington waterfront is worth a wander in any season and, rain or shine, its Harbourside Market is a great place to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables, and to browse an array of food vendors and trucks. Don’t miss the barbecued halloumi on a stick from Brazilian Skewer. Shepherd Fairly new to the Wellington restaurant scene, Shepherd comes with a high-calibre team. Serving an ever-changing and inspired menu, expect surprises such as baby kimchi croissants or miso crème brûlée. With local beers and interesting wines, it’s equally good to stop by for a drink and a snack as it is for a full meal. Golding's Free Dive Hannah’s Laneway is home to various artisan food factories (think peanut butter, bean-to-bar chocolate and soda). There’s also a dive bar called Golding’s Free Dive. Like something out of a movie set, the eclectic fit-out has a rotating selection of the best beers from NZ and abroad. Order a legendary pizza from across the laneway (pizzapomodoro.co.nz) and eat it at Golding’s with the local brew of your choice. Hawthorn Lounge Low-slung lights and a healthy dose of velvet adorn Hawthorn Lounge, the place in Wellington for a cosy, late-night cocktail. Sometimes weird but always wonderful, seasonal drinks here include the likes of a cauliflower sour crafted from house-made saffron and mole bitters. Tucked away upstairs, it also serves a small range of snacks, including a ham and cheese toastie with hot sauce and, if you’ve got room, a bread and butter pudding served with warmed caramel. Customs One of three local cafés run by the cool kids at coffee company Coffee Supreme (which began in Wellington but now spans Australia and New Zealand), Customs specialises in toast, with rotating toppings and doughnuts of the day, as well as single-origin cups and perfect espresso. Try the deconstructed lemon meringue pie doughnut with a filter coffee served in a beautiful mug. Moore Wilson's Wellington's speciality food store Moore Wilson’s sells everything from restaurant-quality ingredients to kitchenware. Browse an array of seasonal produce, buy local food and drink products (there’s a dedicated cheese room) – or a souvenir gadget for your kitchen – then grab a buttermilk-fried chook burger or a chicken and peanut salad from the on-site Chook Wagon. Ortega Fish Shack A dining room that errs on the side of quirky, Ortega Fish Shack is the epitome of modern New Zealand dining. The regularly changing menu focusses on the best NZ seafood (with influences from around the world) and service is that perfect mixture of professional and friendly. If it’s on, try the ceviche. Little Penang Wellington has long been known for its abundance of excellent and cheap Malaysian food, but when unassuming Little Penang opened a few years ago it proved to be a game changer. The cooking is dedicated to authenticity here – you’ll find the best assam laksa this side of Penang. Tommy Millions The 2am food craving after a few of Wellington’s finest brews (they’re famous for them) is best dealt with at Tommy Millions. Pizza by the slice (go for a classic margherita or the spinach and mushroom), sub sandwiches and coffee are all on offer, and it’s ideal for lunch or a snack when you’re not under the influence. Trust olive Gin-loving food writer Delaney Mes is editor of the New Zealand Restaurant Cookbook, published by Penguin. Delaney spent eight years living in Wellington and visits regularly. HOW TO DO IT Return fares from the UK to Wellington start from £686 (quantas.com). Doubles at Ohtel start from £130 per night, b&b. More info; wellingtonnz.com Words | Delaney Mes Photographs | Getty
Looking for an authentic taste of a city? Eat your way around Melbourne, Athens, Lisbon, Malmo and Paris with these food discovery tours
Melbourne For anyone with a sweet tooth, Queenies’ Sweet Dreams food tour is a must – as is a trip to Melbourne, where high-end confectioners and pastry chefs have created a major new food trend. Last-course-only restaurants like Om Nom (omnom.kitchen) are increasingly popular, some of the world’s best chocolatiers are here (make time for a visit to chocolate brewer Mörk, morkchocolate.com.au), and people even go on dessert dates. Is there a better philosophy by which to live than the one decorating the window of pudding restaurant LuxBite (luxbite.com.au), the first stop on the tour? ‘Life is uncertain. Eat dessert first’. Andrew Prior founded Queenies’ after taking part in MasterChef in 2013, as an alternative to returning to his former, corporate, life. The Sweet Dreams tour is one of four small-group food trips he leads around the city, and includes five sugar-laced stop-offs in the up-and-coming South Yarra neighbourhood – some for shopping, some for eating. Don’t miss: The seven-layer lolly cake at LuxBite has to be seen to be believed – its wafer-thin layers include mandarin jaffa ganache, spearmint leaf buttercream and musk mallow. Or try a Meringue Monster: green tea sponge, pistachio, watermelon yogurt and strawberry mousse all wrapped in softly charred meringue. If you love macarons, leave room for Mercédé Coubard’s beauties at A La Folie (alafolie.com.au). After years of experimentation she has discovered a secret ingredient which allows her to add far more fruit than most macaron recipes allow; her signature is the Rose Delight, with orange blossom and raspberry jelly. Like a posh Willy Wonka, Burch and Purchese Sweet Studio (burchandpurchese.com) is famous for its large-scale edible installations and beautifully over-the-top wedding cakes – check out the shop’s wall art, all made entirely from sugar. Where to eat & drink after the tour: Cross the Yarra River into neighbouring Richmond and grab a seat at Kong BBQ (kongbbq.com.au). One of Prior’s favourite restaurants, it’s loud, achingly hip, and has a no-bookings policy, but it serves the best short ribs in town (with pine nut ssamjang and daikon kimchi). Or go for soft-shell crab with salted duck egg relish, wood-roasted sweet potato with wakame butter and a pile of Korean fried chicken wings. How to do it: Queenies’ three-hour Sweet Dreams walking food-tours cost £45pp. Return flights from Heathrow to Melbourne with Malaysia Airlines start at £875 (malaysiaairlines.com). Rooms at the Olsen Hotel, decorated with original works by artist John Olsen, start at £120, b&b (artserieshotels.com.au/olsen). More info: visitmelbourne.com Athens The Greek capital is famous for its souvlaki stalls, which sell cheap kebabs for when you’re on the hop, but it is a city packed with must-eats that tourists rarely discover, unless they book a Culinary Backstreets tour. On these, local chef Carolina Doriti leads small groups to some of the lesser-known highlights of Athens’ food scene. From doughnut balls soaked in syrup and sprinkled with sesame seeds and cinnamon to traditional Greek coffee, made ‘at hovoli’ – in warm sand – at café Mokka (mokka.gr), most local favourites are covered. Then there’s a detour to unearth the city’s best souvlaki (kebabs), and a stop at Carolina’s preferred cheese shop, an atmospheric time warp that’s just celebrated its 100th birthday. Plus there are pit stops to buy wild mountain herbs on Evripidou Street. Don’t miss: Athens’ Central Market. Here, Carolina points out the best fish, fresh pork and ripe tomatoes before zooming in on a tiny stall selling herb sausage patties with salad, olives and glasses of tsipouro, a brandy-like drink. Carnivores will love Ta karamanlidika tou Fani, whose name means ‘cold cuts and delicacies’, where you can enjoy just that by ordering a platter of sausages, meats and pastourma – cured meat coated with paprika, fenugreek and garlic (karamanlidika.gr). Where to eat & drink after the tour: To Triantafilo tis Nostimias is a lunchtime-only taverna specialising in seafood (Lekka 22, 00 30 210 322 7298). It’s worth returning the following day to take a seat and share plates of fava (broad-bean dip) and zohi (boiled wild greens) alongside anchovies, sardines and calamari. If you’re still hungry, refer to your copy of Culinary Backstreets’ Athens: An Eater’s Guide to the City – it’s a local food bible and all participants get one. How to do it: Culinary Secrets of Downtown Athens 51/2 hour tours cost £93pp, including everything eaten and drunk along the way (culinarybackstreets.com). Return flights from various UK airports to Athens start from around £60 (easyjet.com). Double rooms at Athens Hilton cost from £163, b&b (hiltonathens.gr). More info: visitgreece.gr Lisbon It’s easy to make a pig of yourself ‘at the pork place’, aka Manteigaria Silva, where shelves of spiced, cured and smoked porcine produce fill the cabinets of this 100-year-old deli. Delivered to port-barrel tables out front: plates of requeijão (ricotta), marmelada (quince paste) with delicate dried figs and silken slices of 24-month-cured presunto (aged ham) from Portugal’s Barrancos region. Having started the day with a shot of ginginha (sour cherry brandy) at the eponymous, neighbouring bar, you might welcome these gourmet stomach-liners, but there’s more to come. These are just two of many stop-offs on a new, two-hour walking tour hosted by Lisbon’s Inspira Santa Marta Hotel, themed around petiscos, the Portuguese answer to tapas. These aren’t just the ‘small plates’ of the worldwide bar-snack type, but rather an excuse to graze or to dine with friends on deli dishes or half portions. Hosted by local food experts from Eat Portugal, these bespoke tours are a great introduction to Lisbon’s affordable food scene. Don’t miss: Lisbon’s recently revamped Mercardo da Ribeira may have hipster food trucks, but the pretty 1930s Mercado de Campo de Ourique stocks a no-nonsense range of Portuguese goods; look out for classic pasteis de nata (custard tarts) from Pasteleria Aloma (mercadodecampodeourique.pt). Where to eat & drink after the tour: The flaming chorizo is the fiery standout on the small but perfectly formed menu at Dona Quiteria. This teeny bistro, in a 19th-century grocer’s, is a cool new addition to a residential hilltop overlooking the Cais do Sodre nightlife district. Garlicky gambas and delicate bacalhau are also a must (instagram.com/dona_quiteria). How to do it: Return flights from Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester to Lisbon cost from £121 (flytap.com). Inspira Santa Marta Hotel offers petiscos tour packages for €548 for two people, including two nights’ b&b and a guided petiscos tour (inspirahotels.com). More info: visitlisboa.com Malmö Matkaravan’s (‘food caravan’) food tours were originally set up to help Swedes navigate the exotic and unfamiliar ingredients of the ethnic food stores and stalls around the city’s Möllevången square. Still based in the same vibrant area, the focus has shifted over the years to include more local ingredients, Swedish food history and current food trends. Don’t miss: As Sweden’s youngest and most multicultural city, Malmö has a dynamic food scene and the tour’s passionate guides Lena Ilkjaer and Linda Dahl lead visitors to gems such as Söder om Småland, a hop-head’s paradise where you can sample locally brewed sour beer (twitter.com/soderom), and Söderberg & Sara for the best cardamom buns in town (soderbergsara.se). At cheese shop Möllans Ost, taste creamy, astringent tommarpsrulle goat’s cheese rolled in vine ash from Österlen and sweet, nutty skåne alp cheese, perfectly paired with local rosehip marmalade (mollansost.com). Where to eat & drink after the tour: If you’ve been lucky enough to have enjoyed a poke around chef Simon Lennblad’s larder at Far i Hatten restaurant (farihatten.se) during the tour, you’ll probably want to return for dinner to discover what magic he works with foraged ingredients such as dried pike perch liver and meadowsweet cordial. Skilled cooking, with a modern edge and a dash of humour, it’s very Malmö. How to do it: Two-hour food tours with Matkaravan cost from £30pp; tailor-made tours in English can also be arranged (matkaravan.com). Return flights from Gatwick to Malmö Sturup cost from £145 (norwegian.com). The recently opened Clarion and Congress Malmö Live hotel (nordicchoicehotels.com) has double rooms from around £120, b&b and a Sky Bar that serves killer cocktails with a view. More info: malmotown.com Paris Montmartre is one of Paris’ iconic districts, with well-trodden tourist routes that rarely give much insight into how the local residents live or eat. A three-hour Secret Food Tour, however, unlocks another side of Montmartre, showing you where to shop for food and wine, where to eat out and leaving you with all manner of insider tips, including why a baguette is made to be torn and not cut. The tours are often guided by P.J. (Pierre Jean), a knowledgeable bon vivant of truly awesome French-ness, beret and all. He is an absolute hoot, giving an impromptu lecture on how to buy good-value, good-quality wine by drawing a map on a cardboard box, peppering the day with historical anecdotes (from his own political perspective) and explaining how the layout of the streets makes Paris the city it is. He will also do his best to get you to eat chocolate, macarons, cheese, pork belly, saucisson and more chocolate before lunch. Then it’s off to a local park for a picnic bought from the shops you’ve just visited and more mini lectures on charcuterie, wine and how to eat like a French person (shop every day, know your shopkeepers). Montmartre is five minutes from the Eurostar terminal at Gare du Nord so a perfect day trip from the UK. Just don’t eat breakfast before you start; you’ll barely be able to move by the end of the tour as it is. Don’t miss: The chance to retrace your steps and do a bit of shopping on your own afterwards. You’ll visit at least one patisserie, butcher, boulangerie, creperie, chocolate shop, and wine shop and it won’t be until you’ve sampled everything that you will be able to decide what will be best to take home. Where to eat & drink after the tour: Naming names would spoil the secret but, as you tootle around Montmartre, you’ll learn how to spot a good French restaurant. The gospel according to P.J. is that the venue should make its money by selling food, not wine (unless wine is what you’re after), should have a blackboard with specials and no more than 40-50 covers. Look out for places embellished with pink Le Bonbon window stickers. Distributed by the local newspaper, they’re a sign of local approval; if you want to do more research before you go, you can look up some of the places listed on its website (lebonbon.fr). How to do it: One-day Secret Food Tours of Paris cost €89pp (secretfoodtours.com). Return Eurostar fares from London to Paris cost from £58 (eurostar.com). More info: paris.info You may also like Hot food trips for 2016 Best outdoor restaurants in the UK