From the markets and riads of Marrakech to the wild coastline at Essaouira, these are the best places to visit in Morocco for foodies
Planning a trip to Morrocco? Explore the markets of Marrakech, discover Berber traditions in the Atlas Mountains and fresh seafood on the coast at Essaouira – these are our top picks of the best Moroccan trips for foodies, with recommendations of where to eat in each spot along with the best places to stay. For more like this, check out our suggestions for the best French food trips and Portuguese food trips. Fez For medina life Fez's old medina is the heart of social life for locals, where they meet friends for tea or coffee and to buy spices, fresh fruit and veg, incense and traditional dresses for Eid. Explore the winding, shaded streets then nab an outdoor table at Café Al Oud to watch the world go by over the signature lamb tagine. Afterwards, climb the steep, narrow stone steps Abdullah Thé & Café where 81-year-old Ba Abdullah has been serving his signature mint tea since 1969. If you want a guide, join a Fez Cooking School class. Meet your chef and guide over tea at Palais Amani before venturing into the heart of the medina to shop for veg, olives and spices, snack on traditional treats and chat to local merchants. Learn how to make a three-course Moroccan meal back on the rooftop, then enjoy it in the peaceful courtyard with new friends. Come evening, relax on the higgledy-piggledy rooftop of Cafe Clock, offering mountain and medina views as well as cheese briouats, hearty rfissa and mint lemonade with the backdrop of live Arab and oud music. Where to stay: Step in from the hustle and bustle of Fez’s old medina to peaceful riad, Palais Amani, centred around a courtyard abundant with orange trees, shaded tables and chairs, and trickling fountains. Look out for Ba Mohammed perched on his cushion ready to serve traditional mint tea. The rooftop is a haven of cushioned relaxation areas set among terracotta pots of peach bougainvillea, olive trees and rose bushes. On-site restaurant Eden serves traditional Moroccan cuisine such as slow-cooked aubergine zaalouk, pastilla stuffed with cinnamon-spiced chicken and nuts, lamb tagine and vegetable couscous. Breakfast platters of colourful bowls filled with jams, olives, herbed cottage cheese and olive oil accompany silver pots of tea and a daily rotating Moroccan soup served with warm, fennel-flecked flatbreads. Stained-glass windows adorn the bedrooms along with intricate bedheads, handwoven rugs and dark wood cabinets. Hotel luxuries are all sourced in Morocco, from Sultan herbal teas to essential oil bath products. Extend the pampering experience and pad down to the hammam for a sensory experience of hot water, steam, scrubbing and massaging, leaving you feeling as clean as you will ever be. Doubles from £172, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Marrakech For bustling markets Explore the bustling markets and food stalls of energetic Marrakech. Visit in winter for eclectic Christmas gift-buying from souks and usual daytime temperatures of 16-20C. There are plenty of intriguing food stalls to be found among Marrakech’s crowded streets and, after sunset in the main square, Jemaa el-Fna, where pop-up restaurants serve Marrakechi delicacies (sheep’s eyes, anyone?). Fight for a spot on a surrounding roof terrace and watch the stalls set up while you sip a mint tea. At Le Tobsil restaurant in the medina, guests sit on two levels around a courtyard, taking in live gnawa music (blues/Arabic fusion). Book and come hungry for the set menu of aperitifs, endless meze dishes, pastilla, tagine, couscous, fruit, mint tea or coffee, and pastries to finish. In the city’s bakeries, look out for the local special-occasion cake, m’hancha, a coiled ‘snake pastry’ made with almond paste, orange flower water and cinnamon. Take home saffron and spices from the souks, eating street-sellers’ roasted nuts as you go. For something more refined, head to Le Jardin, a courtyard restaurant filled with verdant plants and wildlife – you’ll often find tortoises slowly meandering between tables. Sweet, flakey pigeon pastilla, Moroccan cous cous and whole grilled sardines are must-try dishes. Be sure to book in advance as these tables are highly covetable. Where to stay: Riad Farnatchi is a luxurious, all-suites hotel – and a welcome oasis from the commotion of Marrakech. Five houses were remodelled (and joined together) to create Riad Farnatichi’s ten luxurious suites. All are gathered around two central courtyards, one of which is home to a small swimming pool, one abundant with orange trees, and each with plenty of private nooks to relax in with a mint tea. The 10 suites vary in size but each one blends Moroccan and European styles, with neutral white and stone-coloured walls and eye-catching black and white tiling. Book suite 10 and you’ll also have a walk-in shower, a marble-topped bath and your own roof terrace. There is no minibar, nor tea and coffee-making facilities, but obliging staff are on call to deliver whatever you fancy, often accompanied by traditional sweets or biscuits. Breakfast can be taken anywhere throughout the hotel and includes a menu of eggs alongside fresh fruit and traditional homemade breads. The hotel restaurant Le Trou au Mur offers international dishes alongside refined versions of dishes that would be found in traditional Moroccan homes. Many restaurants in Marrakech are understandably dry, but Le Trou Au Mur is not one of them. Morocco also has a burgeoning wine scene – something the team there has embraced. The menu offers a range of local wines by the glass or bottle, with staff on hand to talk you through the selection. Suites from £298 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Essaouira For a coastal break Essaouira, on Morocco’s often-blustery west coast, pulls in kite surfers from across the world, along with free-thinking expats on the trail of Jimi Hendrix and tourists looking for a bargain in the souks of the town’s bustling medina. Meander through narrow streets, past hole-in-the-wall boutiques and carts flogging fresh bread, and barter for souvenirs in the souks before ducking in to one of Essaouira’s restaurants for tagines and hearty salads. Queue up with locals to grab a pain au chocolat from Patisserie Driss, a small bakery founded in 1928, or duck through an arch to the adjoining tiled café for a nous nous (half espresso, half steamed milk) and a sticky bun. For a quick lunch, head to the port and the gargottes stalls that sell flash-fried sardine sandwiches fresh from blue wooden fishing boats. Try a Moroccan cooking class at Khadija’s Kuzina, where a husband-and-wife duo welcome you into their traditional home, to teach you how to prepare sweet fish tagine, couscous tfaya, homemade batbout and briwat, puff pastry parcels filled with spiced vegetables. The day kicks off with a visit the medina beforehand with Hussein, who’ll guide you to the bustling fish market to select fresh ingredients for your feast. Morocco may be a largely Muslim country but it has a long history of winemaking. Essaouira boasts some top-notch wines and even an award-winning vineyard to visit, Val d’Argan. Where to stay: At peaceful boutique escape Kasbah d'Eau, down the Atlantic coast, surfers, camels and donkeys share the beach. Kasbah d’Eau blends laid-back Berber hospitality with slow coastal living. Interiors fuse hand-carved woodwork and earthy tones across a traditional hammam, a beach-front infinity pool and serene shared spaces, ideal for a signature sundowner – gin, orange juice and a choice of cinnamon or mint for a distinctly Moroccan twist. There are just 17 rooms, each designed with traditional Moroccan finishes and calming, minimal décor. All feature tadelakt bathrooms and a sense of rustic luxury. For the full coastal experience, opt for a sea-facing suite for golden hour views of camels and donkeys trekking home. Mornings begin with a traditional Moroccan spread served with a view of the Atlantic. Soft batbout, flaky msemen or crumbly harcha arrive ready to be layered with jams, honey and compotes. Fresh mint tea flows freely, and eggs are cooked to order, always finished with a pinch of cumin for a spicy kick. Rooms start from £140 per night B&B, kasbahdeau.com Atlas Mountains For rural exploring Half an hour outside Marrakech, you can find yourself in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. Hotels in the area offer a range of excursions, from half-day hikes to more strenuous whole-day treks with a local guide and the opportunity to visit the weekly souk at Tahnaout. Berbers from the mountains haggle over straggly sheep and goats, while tethered donkeys wait patiently. Wander through the maze of makeshift stalls, past piles of vegetables on mats on the ground, mounds of salt and sacks of spices, crates of apples from the Atlas Mountains and lentils from the Kik Plateau. Locals buy their meat from the butcher stalls, and vegetables, spices and a ladle of olive oil from a seller sitting crosslegged amid bottles of murky golden liquid, and bring the ingredients here to be cooked. Pass along the river valley to Douar Azrou, a Berber village. A jumble of stone houses, bedded into the red rocks, it was once on an important caravan trade route and is now protected by UNESCO. Where to stay: Kasbah Angour is a tranquil hilltop retreat built in Moroccan style by English expat Paul Foulsham and run by a team of local Berbers. The property is surrounded by 10 acres of meticulously manicured grounds with a backdrop of snow-covered peaks. There are just 25 rooms, stone floors scattered with brightly coloured rugs, a dreamy pool and a generous peppering of cushion-strewn sun traps and shaded seating areas. It’s a world away from the mayhem of Marrakech. Excursions into the mountains, villages and markets can all be arranged. Doubles from £187, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk More travel guides Best unique UK holiday cottages Best glamping for foodies Best Irish holidays Best French food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best UK summer travel ideas
Celebrate Nigeria’s bold and diverse flavours, from smoky jollof rice to fiery roasted dishes — a feast that captures the country’s vibrant spirit
Want to learn about Nigerian cooking? Looking for recipes from Nigeria? Check out these recipes, then discover our guides to Ethiopian food and Tunisian food, then try our West African recipes. Celebrate Nigeria’s rich and diverse food culture with a feast of vibrant flavours and bold spices. Across hundreds of tribes and traditions one thing remains the same — a love of big personalities and even bigger flavours. Try sweet and savoury favourites such as chin chin, puff-puff and suya, alongside plantain chips and refreshing chapman. Each dish tells a story of heritage, hospitality and togetherness — a cuisine built on generosity, community and a zest for life. Nigerian recipes Nigerian-style roast lamb This dish holds a special place in Jess and Jo Edun’s hearts, created while cooking with their grandma in her Hackney kitchen. Lamb was her favourite and this recipe honours the Easters spent feeding the family, with memories of her bold, rich flavours. A pillar of her community, their grandma’s love for spice is captured in this dish. Slow-cooked, juicy lamb that melts in your mouth, seasoned with suya spice – a Nigerian street-food classic from the north. Combining the best of British and Nigerian flavours, this lamb is a perfect Easter dish, best served hot with jollof rice or roast potatoes, or both! Nigerian jollof rice Jollof rice is more than just a dish – it’s a cultural icon that sparks debates and brings people together, representing the vibrant essence of West African cuisine. At Flygerians, Jess and Jo Edun put their own spin on this classic, blending sweet Nigerian flavours with their signature smoky depth that keeps people coming back. The Flygerian jollof isn’t just for special occasions, it’s an everyday experience. Their late grandmother always said that good jollof takes time and patience and now, every time they cook it, they’re reminded of family gatherings filled with laughter and love. This recipe is perfect for sharing – best served hot with plantain, it works as both a main or a side. Nigerian egusi soup Egusi soup is a beloved Nigerian classic, often served during celebrations like weddings, naming ceremonies and family reunions. With roots in West Africa its preparation and ingredients can vary across regions. Jess and Jo Edun add their Flygerian twist by using spinach and/or ugwu (pumpkin leaf), while others may opt for bitter leaf. Nigerian efo riro Everyone deserves to leave the table full, with heartwarming food that nourishes both the body and soul. Jo and Jess Edun have taken the traditional Nigerian efo riro, usually made with meat, and perfected it for their family. This vegan-friendly version is packed with healthy spinach and loved by vegans and non-vegans alike. While it’s perfect year-round, it’s especially great during Easter, served with white rice, extra-crunchy roast potatoes or fried cassava. Ewa agoyin A comforting Nigerian classic made with black-eyed beans, ewa agoyin can easily be made vegan by swapping or omitting a few ingredients. Jess and Jo Edun say it’s a dish that works at any time of day – breakfast, lunch or dinner – because good food shouldn’t come with rules. Traditionally served with boiled yam, cassava, agege bread or fried plantain, it’s also delicious topped with a fried egg for something a little extra. Recipe extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flygerians-Cookbook-recipes-Nigerian-speak/dp/1788796225/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GJN3GP3U868L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7KIE-A6s6IiF-4CdfHQaM-iwZwvsDcBJ-CEwgYjXVav4qRuNwSvieWXdsVfej5dQRQFmvt861TbJ3djdA8U-WqZlOsOaI6FvcgUelFCitD1zQfL1NT32zyq47F_mt_ntHWU7KSUNcmzoq-5H7ojhiKxb03U3lKcLcRPzCezhUWx_AC63iwa9f85d-ZfkFUHadg0Rft8OHCNo9lWrdPTKR-XbprphYXVCOjNJ-YZBari-uLEqhJ-oQ3x5FRIbpZdM.p-Ui4STKqjb-PLrGaHVcEA-ellgSP1MKGrqW8CFjeEE&dib_tag=se&keywords=flygerian&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736339817&s=books&sprefix=flygerian%2Cstripbooks%2C70&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-273935" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">The Flygerians Cookbook by Jess and Jo Edun (£22, Ryland Peters & Small) and not retested by us. Photographs by Clare Winfield. Beef suya With its melt-in-the-mouth texture this is Nigeria’s number one street food. It’s bursting with cultural history and, most importantly, vibes. Beef suya is just as good as a snack or as a centrepiece and has a unique, beautiful flavour. You will need 10 skewers for this recipe. Recipe extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flygerians-Cookbook-recipes-Nigerian-speak/dp/1788796225/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GJN3GP3U868L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7KIE-A6s6IiF-4CdfHQaM-iwZwvsDcBJ-CEwgYjXVav4qRuNwSvieWXdsVfej5dQRQFmvt861TbJ3djdA8U-WqZlOsOaI6FvcgUelFCitD1zQfL1NT32zyq47F_mt_ntHWU7KSUNcmzoq-5H7ojhiKxb03U3lKcLcRPzCezhUWx_AC63iwa9f85d-ZfkFUHadg0Rft8OHCNo9lWrdPTKR-XbprphYXVCOjNJ-YZBari-uLEqhJ-oQ3x5FRIbpZdM.p-Ui4STKqjb-PLrGaHVcEA-ellgSP1MKGrqW8CFjeEE&dib_tag=se&keywords=flygerian&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736339817&s=books&sprefix=flygerian%2Cstripbooks%2C70&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-273935" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">The Flygerians Cookbook by Jess and Jo Edun (£22, Ryland Peters & Small) and not retested by us. Photographs by Clare Winfield. Mighty Supermalt wings There’s nothing quite like Supermalt – the rich, malty drink that’s earned a permanent spot in Nigerian households. Sweet, bold and unmistakably nostalgic, it’s a staple at celebrations across the country. Jess and Jo Edun’s Supermalt wings are a tribute to their mama (grandma), who adored the drink. Inspired by memories of dancing around the kitchen together, they’ve created a dish that’s full of warmth and flavour, bringing people from all walks of life to the table. Prefer something milder? Simply skip the scotch bonnet for a gentler kick. Recipe extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flygerians-Cookbook-recipes-Nigerian-speak/dp/1788796225/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GJN3GP3U868L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7KIE-A6s6IiF-4CdfHQaM-iwZwvsDcBJ-CEwgYjXVav4qRuNwSvieWXdsVfej5dQRQFmvt861TbJ3djdA8U-WqZlOsOaI6FvcgUelFCitD1zQfL1NT32zyq47F_mt_ntHWU7KSUNcmzoq-5H7ojhiKxb03U3lKcLcRPzCezhUWx_AC63iwa9f85d-ZfkFUHadg0Rft8OHCNo9lWrdPTKR-XbprphYXVCOjNJ-YZBari-uLEqhJ-oQ3x5FRIbpZdM.p-Ui4STKqjb-PLrGaHVcEA-ellgSP1MKGrqW8CFjeEE&dib_tag=se&keywords=flygerian&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736339817&s=books&sprefix=flygerian%2Cstripbooks%2C70&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-273935" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">The Flygerians Cookbook by Jess and Jo Edun (£22, Ryland Peters & Small) and not retested by us. Photographs by Clare Winfield.
Why I love South Africa, the home of renowned braii and incredible wines
From renowned braii and seafood to incredible wines and varied street food, discover what makes South African food so special
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of South Africa so special from South African-born Vanessa Marx, chef-patron of Bingham Riverhouse in Richmond. From renowned braii and seafood, to incredible wines and varied street food, there is plenty for foodies to enjoy. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, the Algarve in Portugal, Cork in Ireland or Istria in Croatia. South African cuisine: 10 things we love South Africa’s food scene is as diverse and captivating as its landscapes, and it’s one of the many reasons this country holds such a special place in my heart. From the warm, comforting dishes that tell the story of our multicultural heritage to the incredible flavours that emerge from every corner of the country, South African cuisine offers something for everyone. Here are 10 reasons why I love the food of South Africa, my beloved home. The diversity of flavours Much like the country’s landscapes, South African food offers an astonishing range of flavours. From the spicy curries of Durban’s Indian community to the hearty, flavourful stews of the Cape Malay, every dish reflects the region’s unique cultural influences. Whether you’re indulging in rich, slow-cooked dishes or vibrant street food, each bite tells a story of South Africa’s incredible diversity. Braai culture No trip to South Africa is complete without experiencing a braai – our national barbecue. A communal gathering that brings people together over sizzling meats, grilled vegetables, and a few cold drinks. While the boerewors (traditional sausage) and steaks are the stars, it’s the shared experience that makes the meal unforgettable. Braais are more than just a way to cook; they represent family, tradition, and the joy of eating together. Wine and food pairings South Africa is a global leader in wine production and its wines pair beautifully with the country’s food. Renowned for its Chenin Blanc and Pinotage varieties, South African wines are a natural complement to the hearty flavours of our cuisine. Picture yourself enjoying a glass of wine at a vineyard in Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, paired with a delicious platter of cheeses, cured meats, and freshly baked bread – this is the true taste of South Africa. Don’t miss a visit to my family’s wine Estate, Hillock Wines, located at the foot of the Towerkop mountain in the Klein Karoo. Cape Malay cuisine The vibrant, aromatic dishes of the Cape Malay community are one of South Africa’s culinary treasures. With a blend of African, Indian, and Southeast Asian influences, Cape Malay cooking features fragrant spices like turmeric, cinnamon, and cumin. A must-try is bobotie, a comforting baked dish of spiced minced meat topped with a savoury custard. It’s a classic that captures the essence of the region’s food culture. A trip to my favourite spice shop, Atlas Trading in Bo-Kaap, is always a must on a trip to the Cape. Street food culture South Africa’s street food is as diverse as its people. You can’t miss the opportunity to have bunny chow, a hollowed-out loaf filled with curry – a dish that originated with the Indian community and has become a beloved part of South African cuisine. In Durban, the curries are rich and spicy, while Cape Town offers Gatsby’s and koeksisters (sweet, syrupy doughnuts) for those with a sweet tooth. These street foods reflect the melting pot of flavours and cultures that make up South Africa. Find a local place for shisa nyama, it’s an unforgettable experience! You’re bound to find some ‘walkie-talkies’ (grilled chicken feet), and potentially ‘skaap kop’ a soup made from sheep’s head for the more adventurous palates. Fresh seafood Given its long coastline, South Africa offers an incredible variety of fresh seafood. From Cape Town’s snoek (a local fish) grilled on the braai to prawns, mussels, and calamari, the country’s coastal regions are a paradise for seafood lovers. Try the famous fish and chips along the vibrant shores of Kalk Bay or Hout Bay, or the salted and dried fish of the West coast, called ‘bokkoms’. You can’t beat the wild oysters of the south coast, we love visiting Knysna, famous for its oyster cultivation. Unique local ingredients South African cuisine takes advantage of an array of unique local ingredients that give dishes their distinct character. Mieliepap, a cornmeal dish similar to polenta, is a staple across the country and often served with tomato and onion sauce or a rich stew. Another essential ingredient is chakalaka, a spicy vegetable relish that accompanies meats, rice, and bread. And don’t forget about amahewu, a fermented maize drink that’s as unique as it is refreshing. You’ll find unique herbal teas on offer with powerful medicinal properties, like ‘buchu’ and the ever popular ‘rooibos’. In season for a short time only, in winter, ‘waterblommetjies’ grow wild in lakes and ponds, and are included in hearty stews of the Cape, called ‘bredie’. Delicious pastries and sweets South African bakeries offer a variety of indulgent treats that will satisfy any sweet tooth. Whether you’re enjoying a milk tart (a custard-filled tart) or a malva pudding (a spongy, syrupy dessert), these comforting desserts are a perfect way to end a meal. The koeksister – a syrupy, twisted doughnut – will win you over with its sweet, crispy exterior and soft, sticky centre. These traditional sweets represent the fusion of South African culinary traditions and offer a taste of home with every bite. If the opportunity arises, don’t miss out on a ‘souskluitjie’ a warm dumpling in cinnamon syrup. Traditional stews and comfort food South Africa’s comfort food includes hearty stews and rich, flavourful dishes that draw on the country’s indigenous ingredients and European influences. Bredie, a slow-cooked stew, often made with lamb and vegetables, is perfect for a chilly evening, while potjiekos, a stew made in a cast-iron pot over fire, is another beloved dish. The meat is tender and infused with spices, making it an irresistible choice for those looking for the ultimate in comfort. Karoo lamb is second to none with a unique herbal flavour, due to the diet of the sheep on the arid veld. The spirit of sharing Food in South Africa is more than just sustenance; it’s about community, connection, and hospitality. From the shared braai to family-style meals where everyone helps themselves, food in South Africa brings people together in a way that is truly unique. The concept of Ubuntu – the belief in shared humanity – shines through in our meals. Food is a way to nourish not just the body, but the relationships that bind us. South Africa’s culinary scene is as rich, varied, and colourful as the country itself. From vibrant street food to world-class wines, every meal is an opportunity to explore the country’s diverse cultures and history. It’s a place where food is not only a way to satisfy hunger but a way to bring people together and celebrate the joys of life. More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
Enjoy The Flygerians' guide to the fiery, complex flavours of this West African nation, including three vibrant recipes to make at home
Want to learn about Nigerian cooking? Looking for recipes from Nigeria? Read Jess and Jo Edun's guide to Nigerian cuisine then discover our guides Ethiopian food and Tunisian food then try our West African recipes. Recipes extracted from <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flygerians-Cookbook-recipes-Nigerian-speak/dp/1788796225/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3GJN3GP3U868L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7KIE-A6s6IiF-4CdfHQaM-iwZwvsDcBJ-CEwgYjXVav4qRuNwSvieWXdsVfej5dQRQFmvt861TbJ3djdA8U-WqZlOsOaI6FvcgUelFCitD1zQfL1NT32zyq47F_mt_ntHWU7KSUNcmzoq-5H7ojhiKxb03U3lKcLcRPzCezhUWx_AC63iwa9f85d-ZfkFUHadg0Rft8OHCNo9lWrdPTKR-XbprphYXVCOjNJ-YZBari-uLEqhJ-oQ3x5FRIbpZdM.p-Ui4STKqjb-PLrGaHVcEA-ellgSP1MKGrqW8CFjeEE&dib_tag=se&keywords=flygerian&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736339817&s=books&sprefix=flygerian%2Cstripbooks%2C70&sr=1-1&tag=olivemag-21&ascsubtag=olivemagazine-244635" target="_blank" rel="sponsored">The Flygerians Cookbook by Jess and Jo Edun (£22, Ryland Peters & Small). Photographs by Clare Winfield. Nigerian cuisine Despite there being hundreds of tribes and different religions within Nigeria, there is one thing that is distinctive across the country: our big, bold, charismatic personalities. You will know you have encountered a Nigerian without them even mentioning where they are from. We learned to cook from the ages of nine and 10 in our grandma’s kitchen in Hackney, east London. Edo is the tribe that our grandmother is from. Our recipes and cooking methods are derived mainly from the Edo style of cooking, mixed with a little British cooking style, too. Nigerian cuisine offers a diverse array of snacks and meals, ranging from savoury to sweet. Here’s a list of some popular Nigerian food for you to discover and enjoy: chin chin, puff-puff, suya, akara, plantain chips and chapman. Nigerian cooking involves a combination of frying, grilling and roasting, steaming, boiling and baking, resulting in flavourful dishes that reflect the country’s rich culinary heritage. We have added a few of our own cooking techniques along the way. Nigerian hospitality is all about abundance and respect. Anyone that enters our home is treated with generosity and warmth. Our guests are our family and whatever we do, no matter how big or small, we love to share, as we love life and the people who choose to embrace our culture. Nigerian recipes Ewa agoyin This is a traditional Nigerian dish made from black-eyed beans, and can be made vegan by swapping or taking out ingredients. In our opinion it can be eaten any time of the day, but then again we don’t believe in placing restrictions on food. Ewa agoyin can be served with boiled yam or cassava, agege bread, or fried plantains. If you are feeling extra, you can add a fried egg on top. Beef suya With its melt-in-the-mouth texture, this is Nigeria’s number one street food. It’s bursting with cultural history and, most importantly, vibes. Beef suya is just as good as a snack or as a centrepiece, and has a unique, beautiful flavour. You will need 10 skewers for this recipe. Mighty Supermalt wings There is nothing like a Supermalt – this sensational malty, non-alcoholic drink has earned its rightful place in the high ranks of all great Nigerian households. Its combined sweetness and maltiness is the reason for its firm place at every Nigerian social gathering. Nigerian culture is so diverse and, when we cater, we seek to cater to all; this showstopper dish is bound to have everybody from all walks of life wanting more. These wings were inspired by our mama (grandma), as Supermalt was one of her favourite drinks – we would dance around the kitchen from the age of nine until well into our early twenties, cooking up a storm and always drinking Supermalt. If you are not a fan of heat you can leave out the scotch bonnet. Nigerian-style roast lamb This dish holds a special place in Jess and Jo Edun’s hearts, created while cooking with their grandma in her Hackney kitchen. Lamb was her favourite, and this recipe honours the Easters spent feeding the family, with memories of her bold, rich flavours. A pillar of her community, their grandma’s love for spice is captured in this dish. Slow-cooked, juicy lamb that melts in your mouth, seasoned with suya spice – a Nigerian street-food classic from the north. Combining the best of British and Nigerian flavours, this lamb is a perfect Easter dish, best served hot with jollof rice or roast potatoes, or both! Nigerian jollof rice Jollof rice is more than just a dish – it’s a cultural icon that sparks debates and brings people together, representing the vibrant essence of West African cuisine. At Flygerians, Jess and Jo Edun put their own spin on this classic, blending sweet Nigerian flavours with their signature smoky depth that keeps people coming back. The Flygerian jollof isn’t just for special occasions; it’s an everyday experience. Their late grandmother always said that good jollof takes time and patience, and now, every time they cook it, they’re reminded of family gatherings filled with laughter and love. This recipe is perfect for sharing – best served hot with plantain, it works as both a main or a side. Nigerian egusi soup Egusi soup is a beloved Nigerian classic, often served during celebrations like weddings, naming ceremonies, and family reunions. With roots in West Africa, its preparation and ingredients can vary across regions. Jess and Jo Edun add their Flygerian twist by using spinach and/or ugwu (pumpkin leaf), while others may opt for bitter leaf. Nigerian efo riro Everyone deserves to leave the table full, with heartwarming food that nourishes both the body and soul. Jo and Jess Edun have taken the traditional Nigerian efo riro, usually made with meat, and perfected it for their family. This vegan-friendly version is packed with healthy spinach and loved by vegans and non-vegans alike. While it’s perfect year-round, it’s especially great during Easter, served with white rice, extra-crunchy roast potatoes, or fried cassava.
Houssam Laasiri, head chef of Palais Amani in Fez’s old medina, shares what makes his home city so special
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of Fez, a city in Morroco, so special, from the roots of its dishes to the treasured delicacies found in medinas, local twists on tagine and couscous and more. Plus, find some top places to eat in the city and the best places to stay. Want to learn more about regional cuisine? Check out our guides to the cuisines of Trentino in Italy, the Algarve in Portugal, Cork in Ireland or Istria in Croatia. The food in Fez: 10 things we love Tagine The tagine, describing both the dish and the clay chimney-style pot used to make it, is influenced by Berber, Jewish, Arabic and Andalucían communities. In Fez, the most popular are makfoul – beef or lamb locked in with onions and tomato – and chicken with preserved lemons and daghmira onion sauce. To try making your own, check out our collection of tagine recipes. Bastilla This light filo pastry snack was brought to Morocco by the Andalucíans. Traditional sweet cinnamon and almond versions are served at special occasions including weddings. There are also savoury options, filled with shredded pigeon or chicken, with crunchy almonds and a touch of cinnamon for sweetness. Friday couscous Fridays are sacred days in Morocco. Many merchants close shop to take a hammam, visit the mosque then catch up with friends and family over couscous. Fez’s regional topping is t’faya, a preparation of caramelised onions and raisins. Briouats You’ll find many types of these pastry parcels in Fez, enjoyed as snacks throughout the day. Most are triangular or cylindrical and filled with the likes of kefta (ground meat), cheese, rice and shrimp. Medina life Many locals live in the new town but come to the medina to meet friends for tea or coffee and to buy spices, fresh fruit and veg, incense and traditional dresses for Eid. People come to Fez’s medina from all over Morocco to buy chebakia – sticky, sweet, rose-shaped pastries made using sesame paste that are traditionally eaten to break fast during Ramadan. Tea shops Fez’s tea shops are where locals meet to drink tea made in a variety of styles, mostly combining green tea with herbs including marjoram, peppermint, spearmint, sage, wormwood and lemon verbena. We take it sweet, so if you just want a little less sugar, ask for ‘chouia chouia’. Spices There are many spices in Moroccan cuisine but the ‘head of shop’ is ras el hanout. This is a blend of up to 35 different herbs and spices. We use it in everything from tagines (including mrouzia beef and raisins) to stews including rfissa. Rfissa Rfissa is a stewed chicken and lentil dish cooked in a pot with a layer of pastry strips to soak up the spices and juices. It’s eaten on special occasions, most notably on the birthday of the prophet. You can see the pastry dough being stretched by hand in the medina. Breads Fez’s speciality is khobz bread, made with fine semolina and white flour, sprinkled with sesame and fennel seeds. We use this to dip into harira barley soup for breakfast or lunch. Teatime gatherings It’s traditional in Morocco for neighbours and friends to gather between 4pm and sunset at someone’s house to chat, play music and drink tea and coffee with an array of sweet treats. These include meloui (laminated pan breads), harcha (semolina flatbreads), baghrir (‘thousandhole pancakes’) and krachel (sweet brioche-style loaves). Where to eat in Fez Fez Cooking School Meet your chef and guide over tea at Palais Amani before venturing into the heart of the medina to shop for veg, olives and spices, snack on traditional treats and chat to local merchants. Learn how to make a three-course Moroccan meal back on the rooftop, then enjoy it in the peaceful courtyard with new friends. fezcookingschool.com Cafe Clock Relax on the higgledy-piggledy rooftop of this multi-level restaurant offering views over the medina and the surrounding mountains. Tuck into cheese briouats, hearty rfissa and mint lemonade with the backdrop of live Arab and oud music, or take part in a jam session. cafeclock.com/fez Café Al Oud Nab an outdoor table at Café Al Oud in the heart of Fez’s medina to watch the world go by over the signature lamb tagine, a sizzling dish of melting lamb, jammy, sesame-coated prunes, apricots and crunchy almonds. instagram.com/caferestaurantaloud Abdullah Thé & Café Climb the steep, narrow stone steps to a tiny cavern where 81-year-old Ba Abdullah has been serving his signature mint tea since 1969. He picks homegrown leaves of spearmint, marjoram, sage and lemon verbena, heats green tea in an ancient copper contraption and jokes around spraying orange blossom water to cool guests down while they wait. Rue Machatine Where to stay in Fez Palais Amani Step in from the hustle and bustle of Fez’s old medina to this peaceful riad, centred around a courtyard abundant with orange trees, shaded tables and chairs, and trickling fountains. Look out for Ba Mohammed perched on his cushion ready to serve traditional mint tea as he chuckles away at your attempts at repeating the Arabic cheers to your health, ‘sehha’. The rooftop is a haven of cushioned relaxation areas set among terracotta pots of peach bougainvillea, olive trees and rose bushes. On-site restaurant Eden serves traditional Moroccan cuisine such as slow-cooked aubergine zaalouk, pastilla stuffed with cinnamon-spiced chicken and nuts, lamb tagine and vegetable couscous. Breakfast platters of colourful bowls filled with jams, olives, herbed cottage cheese and olive oil accompany silver pots of tea and a daily rotating Moroccan soup served with warm, fennelflecked flatbreads. Stained-glass windows adorn the bedrooms along with intricate bedheads, handwoven rugs and dark wood cabinets. Hotel luxuries are all sourced in Morocco, from Sultan herbal teas to essential oil bath products. Extend the pampering experience and pad down to the hammam for a sensory experience of hot water, steam, scrubbing and massaging, leaving you feeling as clean as you will ever be. palaisamani.com Doubles from £172, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels
Sierra Leone food: how to cook like a local
Explore the rich, fiery flavours of this West African country, from pepe chicken grilled over hot charcoals to steamed fish balls
Want to learn about Sierra Leone food? Looking for Sierra Leone recipes? Read Maria Bradford's guide below, then check out these West African recipes. We also have our cook like a local guides to Ethiopian, Tunisian and and Omani cuisine. Words and recipes extracted from Sweet Salone by Maria Bradford (£30, Quadrille). Imagine mountains rising from the sea, beautiful beaches, rainforests, mangrove swamps, savanna grasslands and rivers. That’s Sierra Leone. A country so beautiful that the locals have nicknamed it Sweet Salone. We have a rich culture, expressed in our arts and crafts, folklore and religion, clothing, cuisine, music and languages. Our cuisine is diverse and influenced by the country’s cultural heritage. There are 18 recognised ethnic tribal groups in the country, which adds value to the diversity in our food, food stories and culture. Our food is known for its rich flavours, use of fresh ingredients and a combination of African, European and indigenous culinary traditions. Rice, yam, fonio, plantain and cassava are key staples. We have a number of plasas (vegetable stews) made with a variety of leafy greens such as cassava leaves, sweet potato leaves and jute leaves. We are known for our groundnut stew, also known as peanut stew, which is a hearty dish made with peanut butter, tomatoes, onions, spices and meat. Sierra Leone also has a rich culture of street foods including morkor (sweet and savory banana fritters), untu (steamed fish or chicken balls) and gari kanyah (a chewing snack made with cassava and peanut butter). In many ways Sierra Leone’s colourful culture brings people closer together through food. Sierra Leone recipes Pepe chicken There are 54 beautiful countries in Africa and one thing they all have in common is African culture. We are party people. Our culture encompasses a love of celebrations that combine food, fashion, music and dance. In my view, no party is complete without pepe chicken. Street vendors in Freetown grill this over hot charcoal throughout the night and it is perfect pre- or post-club. Fish huntu This traditional dish of steamed fish balls is commonly sold on the streets of Freetown by Fula women. Fula people are one of the largest ethnic groups in West Africa and are widely dispersed throughout the region. They are predominantly followers of Islam and have traditionally been nomadic, trading and herding cattle, goats and sheep. I’ve used haddock but you could use cod or another white fish such as plaice, coley or pollock. Gari kanyah Kanyah is a simple snack that’s sold all over Sierra Leone. It’s gluten free and very simple – just three main ingredients: garri*, peanuts and sugar. The women in the villages make kanyah the old-fashioned way, using muscle power to pound it into oblivion. Women in Sierra Leone have muscles of steel and chat away as they work the ingredients to a smooth paste. *Cook’s note Garri – dried, toasted, granulated cassava – is made from the dried, ground tuberous roots of the cassava plant. The dried granules have a texture similar to medium semolina. Garri is a major part of the diet among various ethnicities of Nigeria, Benin Republic, Togo, Ghana, Guinea, Cameroon, Sierra Leone and Liberia. Buy in West African grocers or online.
Ethiopian food: how to cook like a local
From the country’s hot lowlands to its high plateaus you’ll find richly spiced stews, springy injera flatbreads and some of the world’s best coffee
Want to learn about Ethiopian food? Looking for Ethiopian recipes? Read Saba Alemayoh and Yohanis Gebreyesus' guides below. Now discover how to cook Omani food like a local. Saba Alemayoh's guide to Ethiopian cuisine Saba is a cookbook author and restaurateur who was born in Sudan to Ethiopian parents. Saba opened an eponymous restaurant in Melbourne's Fitzroy, where she worked front of house while her mother, Tekebash Gebre cooked the food of her homeland. Saba is also a regular on ABC radio in Australia. Her debut cookbook, Tekebash & Saba: Recipes from the Horn of Africa (£22, Murdoch Books), is out now. Located in the northernmost state of Ethiopia, Tigray’s cuisine has very much been influenced by faith and availability. 95 percent of Tegaru are Orthodox Christians – as part of this we practise Lent and other fasting periods, eating exclusively vegan meals 180-210 days of the year. Meat and veg are not seen as the backbone of meals here, nor is the idea of a three-course meal complete with dessert. That is not to say that food is only about sustenance in Tigray. It is revered in its own right, like music and dance, and there are entire events around the preparation of food. For large celebrations everyone comes together to peel tonnes of onions and make litres of honey wine. Women are allocated to the coffee station, and some are simply invited to provide entertainment with sentences that always start with ‘Remember...’. Tigray’s cuisine has three essential recipes that form the building blocks for most dishes: injera (a fermented flatbread), tesmi (spiced butter) and berbere or dilik (powdered chilli mixture or paste). Injera, which also doubles as a utensil with which we eat stews, is usually made with a grain called teff, which is one of the earliest grains to be cultivated in Tigray – as early as the third millennium BC. This hearty superfood is drought-resistant and relatively easy to grow in the mountainous lands of Tigray, although today many Tegaru make injera with self-raising flour instead. Saba Alemayoh's recipes Ethiopian dorho sebhi Discover the rich flavours of the Tigray region of Ethiopia with this chilli-spiked chicken and egg stew. Ethiopian salata dakwa This Ethiopian dish is great to complement spicy dishes, due to the creamy nature of the peanut butter. You can also add hard-boiled eggs and have it as a salad in its own right. Ethiopian dilik This chilli spice paste is fundamental to Tigray cuisine. Recipe author Saba recommends making this recipe in bulk as it stores well, but you can reduce the quantity if you prefer. Yohanis Gebreyesus's guide to Ethiopian cuisine Yohanis Gebreyesus trained in Lyon and worked as a chef in California before opening a restaurant in Ethiopia's capital, Addis Ababa. His cookbook, Ethiopia (£30, Kyle Books) is out now. Food is seen as feeding the soul, as well as the body, in many different cultures. In Ethiopia, however, it fulfils another, distinct, purpose – it conveys positive human energy. This is manifested in a powerful local saying, ‘enebla’. In Amharic, the country’s official language, enebla translates as ‘let us eat’ but it is also an invitation to share and show respect for one another. For instance, Ethiopia’s staple food, injera – a spongy, gluten-free flatbread that (literally) forms the base of most meals, with food placed directly on it instead of a plate – is used in a way that invites more than one pair of hands to a meal. Manipulating injera is sometimes dubbed ‘dancing with fingers’ (guests apply the flatbread over stews then dip and roll it to form a ‘goursha’ – an injera bite that combines various stews, or ‘wat’, from a platter). Yet despite this commonality there is also great diversity. Ethiopia is large and the country’s cuisine is influenced by its distinct climates and geography. From the Danakil Depression of Afar (more than 120 metres below sea level) to the high plateaus that cover two-thirds of the country, Ethiopia’s different landscapes produce different ingredients. The terrain also generates knowledge that helps communities, whether that’s using goat skin to cool water in Afar or burning specific plants to extract edible salt in Gambela. Ethiopia was never colonised but the legacy of trading with Asian and Middle Eastern countries, particularly Yemen, added spices to its dishes. Occupation by the Italians in the 1930s is another factor that has shaped the food. For the most part, however, Ethiopian cuisine has largely been left alone, its staple recipes handed down from one generation to the next. The country is also, of course, one of the world’s largest coffee-producing countries (it is where the coffea arabica plant originates). Yet Ethiopia exports less than half of what it grows. Coffee is drunk copiously across the country and, in a sign of enebla, never alone. ‘Buna tetu’ – ‘come drink coffee’ – is a communal tradition. Yohanis' Ethiopian recipes Nigella-glazed roast chicken with black and white sesame seeds Yohanis shares his Ethiopian-style roast chicken. He says: “This modern take on roast chicken highlights one of Ethiopia’s signature spices, nigella. Cooks often use ground nigella seeds in stews that also contain the berbere spice blend. However, when used as the dominant seasoning, nigella’s nutty, earthy notes take centre stage and combine sublimely with black and white sesame seeds.” What to eat in Ethiopia Asa lebleb Popular in Arba Minch, a town about 300 miles southwest of Addis Ababa, this quick fish dish is full of snappy flavours and textures. Asa means ‘fish’ and lebleb means ‘lightly cooked’ (a reference to the vegetables, which should be crunchy). Ful medames Mashed fava or broad beans might be the national dish of Egypt but it is also hugely popular for breakfast in Ethiopia. In the Middle East it often comes garnished with olive oil, parsley, lemon and garlic but in Ethiopia it gets mashed into onions and topped with eggs, yogurt and chopped jalapeños. Beg siga wat A popular dish to prepare on religious festivities or birthdays, this spicy lamb stew traditionally uses pieces from both the front and rear legs of the animal. Duba wat Pumpkin (duba) is grown, and sold, across the country. This spicy stew is usually served as part of a spread of vegetable dishes but also makes an excellent side dish for chicken, meat or fish. Chiko These barley flour bars are often referred to as ‘local chocolate’ but don’t expect them to be sweet (this is a cuisine virtually free of sugar). Some cooks like to add cardamom, cloves or black pepper. Words by Yohanis Gebreyesus. Photographs by Peter Cassidy. Buy Ethiopia here (£30, Kyle Books).
From restorative meat and grain-based broths, to spiced carrot salads, experience the vibrant and diverse flavours from North Africa
Want to learn about Tunisian food? Looking for Tunisian recipes? Read Hafida Ben Rejeb Latta's guide below, then check out 10 of the best Mediterranean islands for foodies. We also have our Cook like a local: Ikaria, Greece, Cook like a local: Crete and Cook like a local: Oman. Words and recipes extracted from The Tunisia Cookbook by Hafida Ben Rejeb Latta (£25, Nomad Publishing). Tunisian cuisine Tunisia is the jewel of North Africa, where green fertile valleys lead down to breathtaking views across the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean. The monuments of Roman-era Carthage speak of past civilizations who thrived here, and the land has been criss-crossed by invading empires ever since. Each has left its own indelible mark on the national cuisine. Today, the cuisine of Tunisia is possibly one of the greatest undiscovered treasures of the Mediterranean. The country’s proud heritage of embracing and assimilating the foods and tastes of other cultures is evident in every dish. From the Phoenician sailors who brought the olive tree and Spanish explorers returning with tomatoes from the New World, to traders who introduced the herbs and spices from the Middle East so valued by ancient physicians for their health-giving properties, Tunisia has always been a melting pot of societies and food traditions. The delicate flavours of garden vegetables stand in stark contrast to the pungent seasoning, but ever in harmony with the ubiquitous extra-virgin olive oil grown from ancient cultivars. The oil – and indeed the whole cuisine – are now the subject of contemporary research revealing the profound benefits for health at the heart of the Mediterranean diet. It seems the Tunisians evolved a natural goodness in their food which ties in well with the contemporary popularity of healthy eating. Tunisian recipes Shorbat frik (Tunisian soup) This hearty meat, frik (freekeh) and stock soup is flavoured with ras el hanout and paprika. It's especially well-loved in the fasting month, and appears on Tunisian dinner tables on almost all 29 nights of Ramadan. Tunisian chicken tajin Try this recipe for Tunisian tajin – a spicy tortilla packed with chicken, chickpeas, paprika and herbs. This is a slightly tweaked version of the dish that's cooked all over Tunisia. Omek houria (Tunisian carrot salad) Omek houria is a Tunisian salad made with puréed carrots and harissa – it's usually served with toppings like hard-boiled eggs, feta or tuna, but you can easily keep the dish vegan.
Dodge donkeys in the souks, and piles of spices and vegetables in mountain markets, to track down slow-roasted lamb, coriander-spiked kebabs and sardines served with wedges of lemon
Looking for restaurants in Marrakech? Want to know where to eat in Fez? Travel writer Lucy Gillmore takes us on a foodie road trip through Morocco, stopping off at riad hotels, souks and street-food stalls. Marrakech Follow your nose from the Djemaa el-Fna, the mesmerising main square in Marrakech’s medina – its chaos and cacophony fed by a frenzy of hawkers, hustlers, henna tattoo artists and snake charmers – to Mechoui Alley. On the edge of a spider’s web of claustrophobic passageways and dark dead ends in the old quarter, the smoky aroma of slow-roasted lamb seeps out, drawing you in. It’s the lunchtime rush and vendors at the street-food stalls dish up tender strips of lamb, roasted in deep clay pits in the ground and devoured with bread, a sprinkling of cumin and salt, and sweet mint tea. Alongside this mechoui, another local speciality is tangia – urn-like clay pots stuffed with lamb, vegetables and olive oil, and slow-cooked over coals until the meat is falling off the bone – and a more niche delicacy: roast sheep’s head. It might be just a date stone’s throw from the stalls piled high with gaudily painted tagines and tourist trinkets but these are the authentic flavours of Marrakech. Flavours which, in this North African country, have their roots in French, Arabic and indigenous Berber culture. I’m hungry but I drag myself away, snaking through the medina to Le Trou au Mur, sleek sister restaurant of luxury riad hotel Le Farnatchi, where mechoui is also on the menu. I find the door and climb the stairs, emerging into a vibrant room ringed with lime-green banquettes, a vivid black-and-white-tiled floor and a roaring fire. Another set of stairs leads up to a roof terrace and tables with views over the magical muddle of the medina. The restaurant’s design might be starkly contemporary but its ethos is bedded in ancient traditions, the menu showcasing old family recipes passed down from generation to generation. It’s an eyeopener for diners who imagine Moroccan cuisine starts and ends with tagine (the slow-cooked classics of chicken with olives and lemon, or lamb with prunes and almonds). Cherchma is a mix of beans and lentils in a spicy sauce, served with couscous and fed to young children while they’re teething; tride are shredded pancakes with lentils, chicken and a saffron sauce that’s traditionally eaten by women after giving birth. I tuck into chermoula sardines, marinated in a pungent paste of coriander, cumin and lemon, and stuffed with spicy ratatouille-style vegetables. And then, the mechoui, cooked in the restaurant’s traditional clay oven – the shoulder cut is a mound of melt-in-the-mouth meat. For dessert, I can only manage a few spoonfuls of the sweet and creamy berkoukes: imagine a rich rice pudding made from mini Moroccan pasta. Atlas Mountains Marrakech, with its ancient medina and French colonial new town, is now liberally laced with boutique hotels, those in the old quarter converted from riads (traditional houses built around an internal courtyard or garden) but I’m staying half an hour outside the city in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. Kasbah Angour is a tranquil hilltop retreat built in Moroccan style by English expat Paul Foulsham and run by a team of local Berbers. The property is surrounded by 10 acres of meticulously manicured grounds with a backdrop of snow-covered peaks. There are just 25 rooms, stone floors scattered with brightly coloured rugs, a dreamy pool and a generous peppering of cushion-strewn sun traps and shaded seating areas. It’s a world away from the mayhem of Marrakech. The restaurant focusses on local recipes and a home-cooking style, with much of the fruit and vegetables, from aubergines to artichokes, grown in the kitchen garden, the freshly squeezed orange juice from citrus trees in the courtyard. Breakfast is a spread of cheeses, freshly baked breads, sweet Berber msemen (pancakes) and Berber eggs cooked on a bed of fried tomatoes. In winter you can tuck into a hearty bowl of bean-based harira soup with lamb, tomatoes and chickpeas in front of a fire, in summer relax on the terrace with chilled baked aubergine stuffed with tomatoes and thyme, and kefta (meatball) tagine with tomatoes. The hotel offers a range of excursions, from half-day hikes to more strenuous whole-day treks with a local guide and the opportunity to visit the weekly souk at Tahnaout. On scrubland surrounding the market, Berbers from the mountains haggle over straggly sheep and goats, while tethered donkeys wait patiently. We wander through the maze of makeshift stalls, past piles of vegetables on mats on the ground, mounds of salt and sacks of spices, crates of apples from the Atlas Mountains and lentils from the Kik Plateau. There are no women, I notice. The Berber culture is matriarchal, my guide Abdul explains. It’s the men who do the shopping. On one counter, earthenware tagines simmer over smoking charcoal. Locals buy their meat from the butcher stalls, and vegetables, spices and a ladle of olive oil from a seller sitting crosslegged amid bottles of murky golden liquid, and bring the ingredients here to be cooked. At another stall, sardines are deep-fried in a huge vat of oil, then served with wedges of lemon and fresh coriander. On the next, skewers of marinated meat sizzle on a grill. “Moroccan kebabs are different from Turkish,” Abdul says. “We don’t use lemons in the marinade. Our kebabs are simply meat, onions, ground spices and fresh coriander.” Near the fishmongers selling crates of silvery sardines from Essaouira, he points out a smoking conical mud and straw oven. “Mechoui,” he says, “it’s been cooking for five or six hours already.” We are heading back to the hotel on foot along the river valley from Douar Azrou, a Berber village. A jumble of stone houses, bedded into the red rocks, it was once on an important caravan trade route and is now protected by UNESCO. Today, some 25 families live here – one of them, I soon learn, is Abdul’s. Bumping into his cousin we get a taste of Berber hospitality as she invites us in for hot mint tea and homemade barley, honey and olive oil biscuits. Waving goodbye, we weave our way through the terraced landscape. Each family, Abdul explains, has grazing for one or two cows and a vegetable plot. We pass orchards of pomegranate, quince, peach and apricot trees alongside an irrigation canal, rows of silvery olive trees and a local olive press. It’s approaching midday as we wander into the next village to find a group of women chatting around a communal bread oven. They feed the flames with twigs and, smiling, offer us one of the flat round loaves to take with us. Hot from the oven, its crust burns our fingers and lips but we tear it apart, devouring the deliciously soft, doughy centre. Fez The next day I’m leaving the Atlas Mountains behind and travelling north to Fez, once the country’s imperial capital and around six or seven hours by road – or a 45-minute flight on Morocco’s low-cost airline, Air Arabia. Fez remains more off the beaten track than Marrakech, mass tourism yet to make its mark, although with twice weekly Air Arabia flights from Gatwick that might soon change. Here, too, there is a new town built by French colonists but the ancient medina, dating back to the ninth century, and the largest in Africa, is still home to 200,000 inhabitants and a vibrant local community. From the famous tanneries established in the 16th century by Spanish migrants from Córdoba (the stench from the vats and the view of the skins drying on the rooftops is unforgettable) to the hammering of coppersmiths, life goes on much as it has for centuries. My base for the next few days is Palais Amani a 17th-century palace restored and converted into an 18-suite hotel by husband and wife Abdel Ali Baha and Jemima MannBaha. Behind the huge wooden doors they’ve created an oasis of calm around a citrus-shaded, ornately tiled courtyard, a burbling fountain at its heart. They retained many of the original features but added a heavenly candlelit underground hammam. Food is also a highlight, breakfast a feast of fruit from the garden (sliced oranges picked from their trees, with pomegranate and mint), flatbreads with olives, cheeses, honey and homemade jams, and a different Moroccan ‘discovery’ each day. Chorba, for instance, is a traditional vegetable soup served with eggy flatbread; harcha is unleavened bread made with durum wheat, cooked in a cast-iron pan and served with cucumber, tomatoes and olive oil. For dinner you can choose from the local market menu or signature dishes from the à la carte. I can’t resist the pastilla, a flaky filo pastry parcel of chicken and almonds dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. One evening I wind my way to the other side of the medina to the Clock Café, a laid-back labyrinthine restaurant with a programme of cultural events on the rooftop terrace – and camel burgers on the menu; I opt for earthy chicken rfissa with flatbreads, lentils and ras el hanout. On Palais Amani’s roof terrace, meanwhile, there’s a lounge bar, and cookery school. Meeting the chef, Housman, in the courtyard, we go donkey dodging through the souk to buy fresh ingredients – all but the chicken, thankfully already marinating (they kill and clean the birds in front of you in the souk to guarantee freshness). Weaving through the throng, our chef seems to be a local celebrity, chatting to all the stallholders. We buy bunches of fresh mint, aubergines and spices, before stopping for breakfast at a street-food stall. Cramming around a small table, the owner ladles out bowls of bissara soup made from fava beans and garlic with olive oil, chilli, cumin and a squeeze of lemon. Before heading home we stop for another snack, sfenj. These devilishly good deep-fried doughnuts are eaten hot, dipped in butter and honey. Back at the hotel we don aprons to cook lunch. First zaalouk, a smoky aubergine and tomato salad. We char the aubergines on an open flame, grate tomatoes, chop coriander and garlic, and add them all to the frying pan with olive oil, cumin, paprika and salt. Next, the chicken tagine. Later, as we tuck into our culinary creations on the sun-dappled roof terrace as the haunting call to prayer echoes around the medina, I decide that, while there is far more to Moroccan cuisine than the king of one-pot cooking, sometimes the classic is the best way to go. Words by Lucy Gillmore Photographs by Lucy Gillmore and Getty For more info, see visitmorocco.com
The Indian Ocean island’s newest resort encourages guests to discover local flavours by visiting markets and supper clubs, trying shrimp croquettes, sticky tamarind sweets and homemade passion fruit aperitifs along the way
Looking for restaurants in Mauritius? Want to know where to eat in Port Louis? Food and travel writer Lucy Gillmore takes us on a foodie road trip though Mauritius, stopping off at sustainable hotels, roti stalls and fruit markets. Next find out our best honeymoons for foodies and best romantic getaways for food lovers. Ten minutes from the sleepy village of Clemencia, an organic smallholding is blanketed in thick, rubbery vegetation, a verdant tangle of coconut, banana, lychee, sugarcane and taro. It’s off the beaten track, and a million miles away from the clichéd, honeymoon images of Mauritius. There’s a makeshift shelter and mattress in a clearing, and red flags fluttering to ward off bad spirits and wild boars. “I love being up here on my own,” says young farmer, Denis Aristide. “I’ve just planted some chilli bushes and curry plants,” he says, as he points to some spindly stalks. He is also gradually replacing the sugarcane with taro plants, because he can get a better price for the root vegetable. Crouching down, he shakes a plant free from the soil. The leaves are one of the ingredients in a traditional Mauritian curry, the speckled stalks used to make very snackable taro chips. Denis, who farms without pesticides, supplies Salt, the new community-centred, food-focussed, environmentally savvy resort on the east coast (where I’m staying) with taro leaves. He’s also the head bartender. One of the hotel’s aims is to get guests out meeting Mauritian people, and this window into Denis’s life adds an extra dimension to my stay. I pull up a stool at the rooftop bar and watch as he whips up one of the hotel’s signature cocktails: No Smoke Without Fire. Each drink comes with a background story relating to the island’s heritage. In this case, I learn that sugarcane was once the most important crop on the island. And that, as far back as 1639, Dutch settlers used it to produce an alcoholic drink called arrack. My own, very 21st-century Mauritian tipple is a mix of oak-aged rum, burnt cane, home-smoked cinnamon syrup, savage pepper bitters and sweet orange oil, served over ice with a stick of cinnamon. For the final flourish, Denis sets fire to dehydrated sugarcane in a smoking gun, filling a glass cloche over the cocktail with sweet, swirling smoke. The result is silkily smooth and toffee-tinged, with a citrus twist – pure southern comfort. This rugged volcanic island has had a rollercoaster ride through centuries of slavery, sugarcane production and settlement. Today, it’s a mash-up of cultures and cuisines, from Creole to Chinese, Indian to French. It’s also a tropical idyll, its beaches washed by warm turquoise waters and cradled by coral reefs. The mountainous interior is swathed in luxuriant rainforest threaded with hiking trails that weave past thundering waterfalls. It’s a popular honeymoon destination for obvious reasons. But couples checking into the luxury resorts that garland the coastline often remain cocooned within the confines of manicured grounds. Salt is something different: a forward-thinking hotel brand that aims to provide authentic experiences for “culturally curious” travellers. The idea is to introduce guests not just to places but to people. The design of the 59-room hotel, courtesy of French interiors guru Camille Walala, reflects the island’s vivid colours. Among its library of 300 carefully curated books, three-quarters are Mauritian. Food is at the resort’s heart (the philosophy explained by catchphrases such as “Farming it, not flying it”) and everything from supper with a Mauritian family to fishing trips with a local fisherman are on the menu. With an eye on environmental impact there are no mini-bars in the rooms and no single-use plastics. Each guest is given an aluminium bottle to refill at the water stations, and to take home. The hotel has a Slow Food Travel ethos, supporting small-scale farmers and producers. In each room there’s a guidebook written by locals listing their top restaurant tips around the island, from vegan café Eat with Fingers in Grand Baie to roadside restaurant Chez Tino in the village of Trou d’Eau Douce, which serves a delicious octopus curry with green pawpaw. At the hotel, there’s no breakfast buffet (to limit food waste) and what is on the menu is seasonal and local. There’s an in-house bakery and the hotel smokes its own charcuterie. Then there’s the farm. Some hotels have kitchen gardens but, from this month, Salt will have a whole farm at its disposal, five minutes down the road and founded on permaculture principles. Developed with the help of a local NGO, Island Bio, the farm has a ground-breaking hydroponic system using beach sand for cultivation. As well as growing pesticide-free fruits and vegetables, cultivating mushrooms and establishing its own beehives, the farm will be home to a rustic vegetarian and vegan restaurant. The Salt Raw section on the current hotel menu features wildly creative vegan dishes – tacos made from seeds and stuffed with beet balls, vegan soured cream and avocado salsa. The lasagne is a must-order: layers of courgette, tomato sauce, cashew truffle cream, basil pesto and fresh basil leaves. On the main menu, highlights include homemade chevrette croquettes (crispy, deep-fried shrimp balls with herb mayonnaise) and nutty smoked beetroot with a tamarind dressing. The signature dish is also a showstopper: free-range Mauritian chicken curry with tomato chutney, mango pickle and faratha, a Mauritian flatbread. Printed on the menu is an invitation: “If you love it, ask for a lesson on how to make it from the chef.” The next morning I put on an apron in the resort’s state-of-the-art kitchen as head chef, Rehad Khader, shows me how to pound herbs, spices and chillies to a paste on a local volcanic stone slab. Along with the complimentary cookery sessions (you can also learn how to knock up vindaye: fish coated in turmeric, chilli, ginger and mustard seeds), the Salt Bakery offers bread-making classes and the bartenders mixology lessons. Keeping the Salt ethos in mind, I drive to the capital, Port Louis, an hour away, to join a street-food tour, passing pineapple plantations, fields of aubergines and corridors of sugarcane along the way. The Taste Buddies guide, Dada, gives us a potted history covering the discovery of the island by the Arabs and the arrival of the Dutch, French and British settlers, before leading us off to graze our way around the city’s different neighbourhoods. Our first stop is a roti stall, where Indian flatbread is spread with chilli and tamarind sauce and rougaille. Dubbed the soul of Mauritian food, this spicy tomato, thyme and chilli-laced ragout forms the basis of many local dishes. We dip into a tiny, off-the-beaten-track bakery, tuck into dholl puri (delicate pancakes made from yellow split peas and wrapped around a bean curry, rougaille and coriander chutney), then pull up a stool for a bowl of dumplings (fish balls, chou chou and sao mai) swimming in a light chicken broth. “Mauritian hangover food,” Dada smiles. In Chinatown, Dada dishes up more history (the arrival of Indian and Chinese workers after the abolition of slavery) along with gloopy steamed sweets made from rice flour and sweet lentil paste. In the Central Market we peel longan (a cousin of the lychee), chew sticky tamarind sweets with a vicious chilli kick and drink fresh sugarcane juice. Less touristy is the Sunday open-air market in Flacq, five minutes from Salt, the largest outdoor market on the island. I mooch around stalls piled high with coconuts, okra, plump purple aubergines, mangos, breadfruits and curry leaves. On the way back I swing by roadside snack bar, Ti Baz, for Jimmy Armoogum’s homemade tamarind juice: dark, almost syrupy, and sweet with a hint of saltiness. On my last night, Vimla, one of the hotel’s ‘Salt Shakers’ (a team of local experts), takes me to the village home of Mirella Armance, who hosts supper club dinners in her garden – with the help of her nine daughters and husband, Alain. The evening starts with an aperitif: a table under the mango and frangipani trees is lined with bottles of homemade flavoured rums: coffee, passion fruit, ginger, rosemary, vanilla, spice and cinnamon. Crammed around tables under the stars we tuck into chicken curry, rougaille, bean curry, green papaya gratin, and a little jar of spicy chilli paste. It’s hearty home cooking. “If we don’t have chilli, we don’t eat,” Vimla laughs. We even dip fresh pineapple into chopped chilli and salt. Alain is teaching the table some Creole phrases and regaling us with tales of his fishing trips. Vimla chats about her years studying in Canada and how her 17-year-old son hopes to become a chef. Anais, one of Mirella’s daughters, tells us they had 150 for lunch the day before to celebrate her niece’s christening. “Just a small gathering.” And then the Sega music starts, the singing and the dancing, guests and family together under the night sky. It’s a warm, all-enveloping Mauritian hug of a final evening. Words by Lucy Gillmore, May 2019 Photographs by Lucy Gillmore, Getty Follow Lucy on Instagram and Twitter @lucygillmore
Cape Town foodie guide: where locals eat and drink
Summer in South Africa means platters of crayfish and local oysters, and glasses of local chenin blanc enjoyed by the water’s edge
Looking for restaurants in Cape Town? Want to know where to eat in the South African capital? Local food writer Ishay Govender-Ypma shares her insider tips for the best restaurants in Cape Town, along with where to find killer brunches, the freshest seafood and local food markets. The Pot Luck Club – for dinner with a view Luke Dale-Robert’s The Pot Luck Club, headed up by rising star Wesley Randles, sits on the 6th floor of Woodstock’s Old Biscuit Mill lifestyle centre. Wraparound views of Cape Town and a chic, laidback ambiance set the tone for tasting plates of impeccably prepared local ingredients with an Asian influence; think grilled duck breast with naartjie and yuzu dressing. thepotluckclub.co.za Bo-kaap – for Cape Malay cooking Book a historical walk in colourful Bo-kaap, an iconic area renowned for its commanding views over the city and its tight-knit, traditional Cape Malay community. Shireen Narkedien, a Bo-kaap resident and guide can also arrange a meal in the home of a local after the tour, featuring Cape Malay classics like chicken curry and koeksisters – spiced, coconut-flecked doughnuts. shireen.narkedien@gmail.com Saucisse – for picnic ingredients The city’s numerous parks and Kirstenbosch National Botanical gardens are perfect for picnicking. For platters of the best Western Cape produce – think goat’s milk labneh, cumin-studded boerenkaas, chorizo, homemade pâtés, pickled South African peppadew peppers and spreads – head to Saucisse. Even the (eco-friendly) packaging is a step up from the norm at this deli. saucissedeli.co.za Neighbourgoods Market – for market vibes The Saturday Neighbourgoods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock is a great place to pick up artisanal staples and vegetables if you’re self-catering (or food souvenir hunting). Many shoppers stay on for a street food brunch from one of its stalls, from steak sandwiches at Kitchen Cowboys to cultivated Saldanha Bay oysters from Mother Shuckers. neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za Truth Coffee – for coffee and brunch You don’t have to search far to find a well-made, Fairtrade coffee in Cape Town but Truth Coffee is a pioneer of the craft. The café in the emerging Fringe district is an ode to steampunk, with vintage machinery, miles of metal pipework and leather-aproned baristas. Cold brews are the order of the day, though the team also make great standard espressos and flat whites. truthcoffee.com Fish on the Rocks – for fish and chips Fish and chips is a must in Cape Town. Take yours up a gear by ordering snoek, a large-boned member of the barracuda family. Eat it outdoors with the locals at no-fuss Fish on the Rocks in Hout Bay. Fish comes served with slap chips doused in vinegar and you’ll find the 25-minute drive from the city centre worth every bite. fishontherocks.com Harbour House – for fresh seafood At the V&A Waterfront, a shopping and dining complex, settle in for a magnificent view of the harbour and the mountain at waterside Harbour House (middle right) and take your pick from a fine selection of seasonal seafood caught by the restaurant’s own trawler; in late December it’s all about crayfish. harbourhouse.co.za Mariam's Kitchen – for foot-long sandwiches Few foods say Cape Town like a robust gatsby, a foot-long (or even longer) submarine filled with ingredients such as spicy masala steak, slap chips (proper chippy-style chips) and a variety of sauces. Cheap and cheerful, the ones at Mariam’s Kitchen are the city’s best. 33 Heerengracht Street; 00 27 213 007 277 Publik – for wine and cheese A contemporary butcher with a wine bar at the front, Publik is well worth a visit for its excellently curated list of local, and some international, wines. Prime quality biltong (dried, cured meat) from the meat counters and platters of local cheese and crunchy gherkins keep punters lingering. A wine flight is highly recommended. publik.co.za Devil's Peak Brewery – for South African beers With a view of Devil’s Peak Mountain, the Taproom at the aptly named Devil’s Peak Brewery is one of the best craft beer venues in the country. Start with a beer tasting at the bar, then move to a table for a casual lunch or snacks paired with beer, like pulled pork crubeens with amber ale or flash-fried broccoli with English ale. devilspeakbrewing.co.za Where to stay in Cape Town The Silo You’ll want a good head for heights to check into The Silo. This incredibly luxurious Thomas Heatherwick designed property occupies six floors above the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, which was originally built in the 1920s as a grain store. At the time it was the tallest building in sub-Saharan Africa and it remains an iconic spike in the city’s skyline; expect show-stopping views of the waterfront and beyond from its dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows (with bathtubs perfectly positioned for soaking up the views). The hotel is a reimagining of the former grain elevator, with 28 bedrooms, a spa, a range of cafés and bars and – the main event – a rooftop restaurant and pool. Doubles from £848 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2024/04/The-Silo-hotel-a5599ee.jpg" width="4000" height="2666" alt="VRimg File Description =Attributes= Version: 1.3 Compressed: true Resolution { width: 4000 height: 4000 pixelAspectRatio: 1 } Render Region { renderRegion: false xmin: 0 ymin: 0 width: 4000 height: 4000 } Regions Info { regWidth: 64 regHeight: 64 whatsXY: MaxSize } Camera Info { transform: matrix projection: perspective aperture: 36 fov: 71.4487 targetDistance: 22952.9 nearRange: 0 nearClip: 0 farClip: 1e+030 focalLength: 25 fNumber: 10 } Scene: "BIDEN HOTEL VIEW APPROVALS 007.2 bathroom01.max" =Channels= Alpha (float3) RGB color (float3) VRayExtraTex_Map #772673 (float3) VRayIlluminance (float3) VRayLighting (float3) VRayMtlID (float3) VRayObjectID (float3) VRayRawShadow (float3) VRayReflection (float3) VRayRefraction (float3) VRayRefractionFilter (float3) VRaySpecular (float3) VRayZDepth (float)" title="The Silo hotel" /> Trust olive: Ishay Govender-Ypma is an award winning Cape Town-based food and travel journalist. She also writes a food blog, foodandthefabulous.com Photographs: Hillary Fox/Cape Town Tourism, Getty, Haldane Martin, Sophie Smith Photograph
Babylonstoren, Stellenbosch, South Africa: hotel review
Read our review of this Cape Dutch farm hotel, restaurant and garden in South Africa, set in the country's wine region between the pretty towns of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek
Looking for vineyard hotels in South Africa? Want foodie places to stay in Stellenbossch? Read our hotel review and check out where to eat and drink in Cape Town here. What is Babylonstoren’s USP? A 3.5-hectare working farm in South Africa’s Cape Winelands (just half an hour's drive from Cape Town) which is the epitome of farmhouse chic. Previously a Cape Dutch stone fruit and citrus farm, the site, at the foot of the dramatic Simonsberg mountains, now houses a formal French fruit and veg garden, well-regarded vineyard and destination farm-to-fork restaurant (along with a tranquil spa and stylish bedroom suites housed in former farmhouse buildings). And the general vibe? Having previously worked as editor of South Africa's Elle Decoration, Babylonstoren’s owner Karen Roos has a sharp eye for interiors and attention to detail, resulting in the most stylish farmhouse stay in the Cape Winelands. The 3.5-hectare site is dominated by a luscious, fruitful garden where gnarled olive trees and sprawling pumpkins grow alongside perfectly manicured rows of lemon trees and heart-shaped prickly pears, and where working ducks patrol the grounds to ensure snails don’t undo the hard work of the gardeners. This balance between rustic and contemporary is a theme throughout the estate – smiley, casually-dressed staff knock on your farmhouse door every evening at sunset with an elegant glass of Babylonstoren’s crisp, cold white wine; guests in fluffy white robes pad from the farmhouse-style Jacuzzi, salt room and sauna to take a plunge in the swimming pool, and visitors take part in bread making workshops in the on-site bakery. Which room should I book at Babylonstoren? Book one of the one-bedroom suites tucked away beside the gardens. A track takes you from the reception building and restaurant past ponds of waterlilies, tanks of multi-coloured fish and shelters for tiny dozing hedgehogs down a shady avenue lined with 18th century whitewashed farmhouse buildings. Here, dark green shutters and stable doors frame bright and airy rooms decorated with modern white furnishings (and made cosy with cast iron stoves and handwoven throws). South African literature lines the bookshelves and framed botanical illustrations add pops of colour to the white walls. Bottles of red and white wine, homemade rooibos and honeybush tea and biscuits are all complimentary, along with a box of hand-picked fruit left on the bench outside each suite every day. Each suite is kitted out with small, thoughtful details to make your stay comfortable – from espresso machines and bespoke toiletries made from the garden’s botanicals (lemon verbena, rose geranium and lavender) to umbrellas and wellies left by the door, ready to help you embrace the surrounding grounds. What’s good to eat? Babel, the hotel's main restaurant, features nods to its former life as a cow shed – the original trough stands in the centre of the room, and a giant illustration of a cow’s head dominates the back wall. It’s light and airy, with delicate white flowers poking out of coloured glass bottles brightening up wooden tables. Glass walls look out onto shady courtyards where you can eat if you prefer (though take care not to tread on a resident tortoise). We’ve seldom seen a more evident farm-to-fork ethos, and to call Babylonstoren’s grounds a kitchen garden doesn’t do justice to the abundance of produce that grows under the hot South African sun. Seasonal fruit and veg are shown the limelight at Babel, with a list of what’s currently being harvested written up on the white tiles of the restaurant’s walls. Little tasters from the garden are brought to diners on sticks as an appropriate amuse-bouche (black paw plums, kei apples and multi-coloured carrots on our visit). Seasonal salads dominate the starters, plated according to colour – green is made up of slices of apple, limes and figs with a vibrant pesto, and served with mozzarella and wine-roasted ham. The yellow plate combines passionfruit and melon balls with super crisp pieces of battered squid and courgette flowers. Babel is big on steaks and show-stopping cuts of meat served on the bone (lamb cutlets, whole-roast baby chicken, fillet of beef with roast onion and Babel red wine). Sides follow the seasons, and might include pickled beetroot, butternut squash with orange and ginger glaze, broccoli with cheese and pepper sauce, and crisp potato wedges. If you can’t get a table at Babel, Babylonstoren’s greenhouse café is an idyllic alternative for an al fresco lunch or afternoon tea. And to drink? Babylonstoren boasts a working vineyard, complete with wine cellar, state-of-the-art winery and magnificent glass-fronted tasting room. Sit by the fire while staff prepare tasting flights at the green-tiled bar; the estate’s 88 hectares of vines hosts 13 different grape varieties. Citrusy yet creamy Burgundy-style Chardonnay is one of the estate's premium wines, along with a dark ruby, fruity Nebukadnesar made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The Viognier is refreshing and floral with zesty lime notes, while sparkling Chardonnay Sprankel has notes of passionfruit and grapefruit. What’s the breakfast like? Babel’s buffet breakfast is no ordinary affair. A huge table supports colourful plates of the garden’s produce and exotic fruits that even the widest travelled might not have heard of (tamarillo, num num, or 11 varieties of prickly pears). There’s even a section dedicated to healing herbs ­– lemongrass for nausea, lemon verbena for headaches, mint for digestion and elderflower for hayfever. Load up your plate with squidgy bread to dunk into homemade herb oil, dress your eggs with freshly picked leaves of the day, and dollop Jersey milk yogurt onto jewelled savoury granola. Juices are labelled by colour – yellow (carrot, ginger, pineapple, melon, orange) and red (beetroot, red apple, watermelon, plums) amongst others, along with yellow prickly pear (actually more blood orange in colour). What else is there to do at the hotel? Join a garden tour and follow one of the enthusiastic gardeners as they weave through rows of olive trees, pick little num num berries, and marvel at giant aubergines and pumpkins. Each corner of the garden reveals a story, whether it be a cutting from Newton’s apple tree in Kent or willow trees from the site where Napoleon is buried. Don't leave without exploring Babylonstoren's farm shop, complete with a refrigerated charcuterie room where saucisson and bresaola hangs against cool white tiles. The pantry is packed full with homemade biscuits, juices, cheese and preserves, and a treasure trove of shelves full of kitchen utensils and dining room decorations wouldn't look out of place on a front cover of Elle Decoration... Is Babylonstoren family friendly? Babylonstoren’s garden provides a magical labyrinth to spark children’s imagination – human nests to climb in, covered pathways to run through and little hedgehogs and tortoises to spot. There’s a small children’s menu available at Babel restaurant, and extra beds and cots can be put up in most rooms. What can I do in the local area? We highly recommend a trip to the Bond villain's lair-like Delaire Graff Estate. A dramatic driveway lined with impressive African art winds up to a huge building housing water features, statues of leopards and cases of Graff diamonds and the sprawling estate boasts a 360-degree view of the Cape Winelands (you can even spot Table Mountain in the distance). Enjoy a slap-up lunch on the terrace of The Delaire Graff Restaurant – a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc is the perfect pairing for pappardelle with plump king prawns, crunchy greens and a light creamy sauce. For something a little more casual, but still exquisitely stylish, the deli at Tokara estate over the road is a great option. Peruse the shelves of homemade and locally sourced preserves, oils and chocolates before relaxing on a squishy sofa next to a huge contemporary fireplace with a burger, salad or homemade pie. The concierge says… Spend a day hopping on and off the Franschhoek wine tram. There are various routes you can take, each named after a different colour, but the orange line and purple line both stop at Babylonstoren on their journeys through the western region of the Franschhoek Valley. Stop off for cellar tours, wine tastings and long boozy lunches before stumbling back to your suite and sleeping off the wines by the pool, or relaxing in the jacuzzi with a view of the vineyards. olive says… Make sure you book Babel restaurant well ahead (as well as other restaurants in the area) as it can often be full up two months in advance. Words by Alex Crossley Photographs by Alex Crossley and Babylonstoren <a href="https://go.redirectingat.com?id=71026X1546147&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fhotel%2Fza%2Fbabylonstoren.en-gb.html%3Flabel%3Dgen173nr-1FCAEoggJCAlhYSDNYBGhQiAEBmAExwgEDYWJuyAEM2AEB6AEB-AECkgIBeagCBA%3Bsid%3D33c3fa277f0d08b0b1bd2df681f354b8%3Bcheckin%3D2018-11-15%3Bcheckout%3D2018-11-17%3Bdest_id%3D900050851%3Bdest_type%3Dcity%3Bdist%3D0%3Bgroup_adults%3D2%3Bhapos%3D1%3Bhpos%3D1%3Broom1%3DA%2CA%3Bsb_price_type%3Dtotal%3Bsoh%3D1%3Bsoldout%3D0%2C0%3Bsrepoch%3D1540558852%3Bsrfid%3D5de1adc15587111c4acc13029006509e5f673fe7X1%3Bsrpvid%3Db7695b81e64200d3%3Btype%3Dtotal%3Bucfs%3D1%26%23no_availability_msg" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">For the best deals on rooms at Babylonstoren, click here
Riad Farnatchi, Marrakech: hotel and restaurant review
We review Riad Farnatchi, an all-suites hotel in the heart of the Moroccan capital with a new restaurant specializing in updated Moroccan classics and luxurious spa
Looking for luxury hotels in Marrakech? Read our expert review of Riad Farnatchi in Marrakech, a luxurious hotel with a new spa and restaurant serving traditional Moroccan cuisine with a contemporary twist. (Read our guide to the best restaurants and hotels in Marrakesh here...) Originally built as a holiday home, the at-home philosophy is still palpable at Riad Farnatchi today. Now a luxurious, all-suites hotel – and a welcome oasis from the commotion of Marrakech (be that the sound of citizens clamouring past on mopeds or merchants beckoning you to sample their mountains of spices) – the riad is run more like a house party. Breakfast, aperitifs (pre-dinner cocktails) or dinner are available to take wherever you choose and staff are a joy; charming and attentive without being intrusive. There’s also a luxurious new spa. The bedrooms at Riad Farnatchi Five houses were remodelled (and joined together) to create Riad Farnatichi’s ten luxurious suites. All are gathered around two central courtyards, one of which is home to a small swimming pool, one abundant with orange trees, and each with plenty of private nooks to relax in with a mint tea. The 10 suites vary in size but each one blends Moroccan and European styles, with neutral white and stone-coloured walls and eye-catching black and white tiling. Traditional Moroccan rugs and intricately carved plaster cornicing softens the hard lines. Each suite also boasts a fireplace, handmade beds and luxuriously soft duck-down bedding. Book suite 10 and you’ll also have a walk-in shower, a marble-topped bath and your own roof terrace. Fez hats and djellabas (traditional house robes) are also provided - enjoy them during your stay or buy them to take home as haggle-free souvenirs. There is no minibar, nor tea and coffee making facilities, but obliging staff are on call to deliver whatever you fancy, often accompanied by traditional sweets or biscuits. The food at Riad Farnatchi Tucked down the same alley, facing the Riad, Le Trou au Mur opened at the end of October. Part of the hotel but operated separately, the restaurant is bright and modern with statement monochrome tiling and lime green accent banquette seating but still manages to feel cosy and intimate thanks to a medley of rugs and historical paintings. International dishes are listed but the kitchen has worked hard to design a menu that demonstrates refined versions of dishes that would be found in traditional Moroccan homes, and as such have not shied away from Marrakech’s love of offal. A selection of Moroccan salads to start features a fresh tomato salad, silky sweet potato purée spiked with warming cinnamon, delicately spiced cauliflower, intense charred aubergine and sweet carrot salad. Berkoukesh, another Moroccan specialty of grain-like handmade pasta, is cooked with a rich tomato and herb sauce to give it an indulgently creamy texture. Mains include slow-cooked tripe with white beans and a spiced tomato sauce, offal medley and tripe; fine shredded pancakes with lentils, chicken and a saffron and herb sauce. The mixed mechoui was exactly as hoped; tender, fall-apart meat flavoured with rich, melting fat and served with a fragrant garlic and saffron sauce. It’s testament to the quality of the produce and skill in cooking that, while it enhanced the flavours of the meat, there was so much flavour in the lamb that the sauce was almost surplus to requirements. There is also a daily changing tagine du jour; on our visit this was succulent chicken served with jewel-like raisins and tfaya – sweet, caramelised onions. Although Moroccan cuisine is often laced with sweetness, desserts are not generally a strong point. One exception is berkoukesh – presented here as a luxuriously creamy, cinnamon-spiced rice pudding. Beyond the hotel, there are plenty of intriguing food stalls to be found among Marrakech’s crowded streets and, after sunset in the main square, Jemaa el-Fna, where pop-up restaurants serve Marrakechi delicacies (sheep’s eyes, anyone?). Fight for a spot on a surrounding roof terrace and watch the stalls set up while you sip a mint tea. For something more refined, head to Le Jardin, a courtyard restaurant filled with verdant plants and wildlife – you’ll often find tortoises slowly meandering between tables. Sweet, flakey pigeon pastilla, Moroccan cous cous and whole grilled sardines are must-try dishes. Be sure to book in advance as these tables are highly covetable lejardinmarrakech.com. The drink at Riad Farnatchi Many restaurants in Marrakech are understandably dry, but Le Trou Au Mur is not one of them. Morocco also has a burgeoning wine scene – something the team at Le Trou au Mur has embraced. The menu offers a range of local wines by the glass or bottle, with staff on hand to talk you through the selection. The breakfast Breakfast can be taken anywhere throughout the hotel and includes a menu of eggs alongside fresh fruit and traditional homemade breads (don’t miss the thin, layered flatbreads spiked with spices – perfect for mopping up the rich tomato sauce and runny egg yolks of shakshuka. Other options include eggs Florentine or smoked salmon and scrambled egg. Thinking of visiting Marrakech this winter? Check out our guide to the best places to eat, drink & stay in Marrakech, Morocco over the winter season... For more information see RiadFarnatchi.com and LeTrouAuMur.com Words by Sarah Kingsbury Photographs by Sarah Kingsbury, Alan Keohane and Riad Farnatchi
Marrakech, Morocco: Marina O'Loughlin's best restaurants and hotels
Marina O' Loughlin raids Marrakech’s souks and restaurants for slow-cooked lamb and fluffy couscous, then it’s back for a glass of wine by the hotel pool.
There are pomegranates growing outside our door. Behind the high, terracotta coloured walls and date groves of the Palmeraie district lie the houses of princes and potentates (I think an actual real-life prince lives next door to our hotel, the glamorous Mosaic Palais Aziza). We’re drinking chilled wine beside the pool, but half an hour ago, in a dusty alleyway off a vast square teeming with bewildering life, a man in a djellaba was fishing out a sheep’s head from a deep, smouldering pit and shredding it for our delectation. Marrakech is full of extremes. Extreme luxury – the mother-of-pearl inlaid bar at King Mohammed VI’s Royal Mansour hotel, its Yannick Alléno-headed restaurants with its eye-watering prices. Or the myriad, lavishly decorated, zillij-tiled, rose-petal strewn riads behind blank walls in the Medina (old town). Extreme challenges: trying to negotiate the souk with a shoal of fourteen-year-old boys deliberately trying to lead you towards their pet vendors (we give up and take refuge in a patisserie, gorging on sticky, honeyed cornes de gazelle and halwa chebbakia). And extreme eating: the blind faces of the animals on the street food stalls, vats full of oily, earthy snails, the pile of brown sludge that even our local translator doesn’t recognise (it turns out to be sellou, a pudding made from almonds and every spice from galangal to nutmeg). That sheep’s head was from ‘mechoui alley’, just off massive Djemaa el-Fna square where snake charmers, street food stalls and storytellers make you feel like you’ve been transported onto the set of Indiana Jones. Fortunately the slow-cooked lamb mechoui with freshly-baked khobz (bread) is glorious. I always try to unearth where locals eat, but it’s proving tricky. Marrakshis maintain that the best food is to be found in the home, so if you see them out, it’s mostly at street food stalls. Rich natives love vast, club-like ‘trendy’ dance spaces like Bo et Zin, the kind of place that brings me out in hives. The closest we get is at Rue Ibn Aicha – ‘meat street’ – in new town Gueliz, dedicated to carnivorous pursuits. Newbies at ordering by weight, we end up with what appears to be an entire barbecued lamb, cubed or chopped, minced or sausaged, with acres of salad, floppy chips and harissa. So after one too many encounters with animal heads or innards, we go with the tourist-expat flow. We eat at Maroliano – so called because the food is a mix of Italian and Morrocan – in our hotel, run by chef Daniele Turco, ex-Venice’s Gritti Palace, loving his sophisticated takes on tagines and fish soup rich with saffron. And we go French: years of occupation have given many restaurants a Gallic flavour, like Café Rouge-ish Bagatelle, full of expat French smoking like crazy. And rather lovely colonial-styled Grand Café de la Poste (00 212 2443 3038) in Gueliz, for steak tartare among the pillars and ceiling fans. All the sleek hotels have started offering cookery courses, but one of the earliest to do so was Maison Arabe, another swankpot hidden behind high old town walls. In a high-tech kitchen just in sight of the glittering pool, we learn how to make tagines with preserved lemon and musky dried peaches; round loaves of khobz; briouats stuffed with fragrant spiced lamb or delicate vegetables wrapped in the lightest, delicate warqa pastry (mine are perfect little pillows, D’s more like corner shop samosas). The highlight for me is being taken next door to a communal bakery where a grizzled chap in his subterranean, tiled lair cooks the raw loaves brought by the locals. ‘You can tell who’s marriage-worthy by the quality of their bread,’ confides the dada (cook) who guides us. It’s the kind of scene that hasn’t changed for centuries. Traditionally, women rule all the kitchens. At Al Fassia all staff are female, cosseting their customers in a typically no-nonsense way. Sure, the clientele is still foreign, but as you lounge on the velvet covered banquettes eating lamb tagine with plums, sweet, sticky onions and fluffy couscous laced with loads of smen (preserved butter), you sense that this is the food of tradition, not a sanitised version. They make a b’stilla – the Andalucian-scented pie of warqa pastry stuffed with pigeon, spices, eggs and dusted with icing sugar – of the gods. I tell our smiling server as we’re sprinkled with orange flower water that everyone told us to come here. She’s unsurprised: ‘Of course. We’ve been here for 26 years’. We have a high time in Marrakech, basking in the luxury of the Royal Mansour on one hand, getting almightily lost in the souks on the other. But I feel I haven’t quite got to the heart of the place, although I’ve enough argan oil to keep me supple for a lifetime. Maybe the dada at Maison Arabe is right: maybe we do need to eat in private homes. But hey ho – pass me another chilled Medallion sauvignon blanc and peel me a pomegranate. I’ll live with it. By Marina O'Loughlin (@MarinaOLoughlin) Written March 2013 Main image taken by David Thomas olive magazine podcast ep72 – Morocco with John Gregory-Smith This week on the olive magazine podcast, we have a special chat with food and travel writer John Gregory-Smith to celebrate his new book, Orange Blossom & Honey, and his magical Moroccan recipes. 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