Best restaurants in Birmingham: where to eat, drink and stay
Birmingham has long had a constellation of Michelin stars – and balti restaurants – but the city’s street food stalls, brunch spots and wine bars also shine
Check out the best restaurants in Birmingham and other places to eat and drink in the city with our local foodie guide, from the best pizza and burgers to Michelin-starred dining, cosy gastropubs and must-visit bakeries. We've also picked the best places to stay in Birmingham so you can make a foodie weekend of your trip. For more exciting restaurants and weekend ideas for food lovers, check out our best UK city breaks, the best restaurants in Bath, best restaurants in Manchester or the best restaurants in Edinburgh. Jump to: Best places to eat and drink in Birmingham Where to stay in Birmingham Best places to eat and drink in Birmingham Otto – best pizza Hip, utilitarian Jewellery Quarter space that serves some of the best Neapolitan-style pizza this side of Sorrento. From Otto’s lush, crushed tomato sauce to its homemade ham, or its pea and wild garlic pesto, every element of the menu has been lovingly honed. Fermented for at least 72 hours to create delicious flavour complexity, then blast-cooked to puffy, leopard-spotted perfection (in an imported wood-fired Gianni Acunto oven), Otto’s bases are thoughtfully topped with, for example, beef ragu, taleggio, braised red wine shallots and pecorino, or ‘nduja, honey and – Otto’s makes good use of British charcuterie, too – Wenlock Edge Farm chorizo. A relaxed buzzy vibe completes this attractive deal. ottopizza.uk Bonehead – best for fried chicken Tucked in behind New Street station, the black-clad Bonehead has a rock bar vibe (heavy metal memorabilia, street art, craft beers, cool, grungy-alternative music), and a stellar rep for its buttermilk fried chicken. Think: juicy poultry encased in crisp, light 'original' or 'Nashville hot' coatings, deftly layered with vibrant flavours. Tenders can be dipped in sauces from lime aioli to ranch dressing, while the chicken thigh burgers include various additions and glazes, such as bourbon BBQ or sriracha honey. Look out for one-off events and collaborations. This summer, these included a fish sandwich created using a new hot sauce from the electronic DJ-producers, Bicep. Bonehead also has a sister bar in Stirchley, Deadbeat. boneheaduk.com Albatross Death Cult – best omakase experience With its theatrically black interior and rock soundtrack, chef Alex Claridge’s The Wilderness restaurant is a singular experience. His second Birmingham venue, Albatross Death Cult, is similarly distinctive. A 14-seat, omakase-style counter dining set-up, it uses wild British seafood to create dishes which it promises will “smack you in the face like ocean spray”. ADC’s tasting menu is constantly changing, dictated by the seasonality and volatile availability of the exceptional fish and seafood it relies on. Said produce is treated with great technical skill and an intelligent restraint to create plates of, for example, smoked trout belly and belly fat XO with smoked caviar, which aim to enhance these prime ingredients, without any superfluous cheffy flourishes. The chatty staff are enthusiastic exponents of the methods and ingredients used to execute dishes which might range from Cornish mackerel with fermented plum ponzu to a crowning sushi rice ice cream, mushroom caramel and candied nori seaweed. If, like olive, you were wondering about that name, it was inspired by Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s epic 18th century poem, The Rime of the Ancient Mariner. albatrossdeathcult.co.uk Riverine Rabbit – best for small plates Birmingham’s hottest restaurant? Quite possibly. Launched in the suburb of Stirchley early in 2024, Ash and Erin Valenzuela-Heeger’s counter-dining small plates venue quickly won plaudits from Michelin, clued-up Brummie foodies and the National Restaurant Awards – Ash was tipped on its annual 'Chefs to Watch' list. This South African-born rising star has cooked in some seriously high-level kitchens (Cape Town’s Test Kitchen, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal), and that calibre is reflected in her assured, creative use of sustainably farmed, seasonal ingredients. To give you a flavour of the excitement on offer, standout dishes so far have included bone-in turbot collar and black pepper sauce; charred leeks with lemon oil, brown butter hollandaise, fried shallots and breadcrumbs; and Ash’s take on tartare: beef marinated in rapeseed oil, shio koji and tosazu dressing vinegar, topped with crispy seaweed. Monday to Friday dinner only. riverinerabbit.co.uk Tropea – best sharing Italian food Named after a coastal Calabrian town, this hip Harborne restaurant takes inspiration from across Italy, while putting its own contemporary spin on that source material. “In a culinary sense, each region is almost independent. It’s fascinating,” says co-owner Ben Robinson-Young. Chef Kasia Piątkowska’s sharing plates menu might run from bombolone doughnuts filled with gorgonzola, pickled walnuts and red onion jam, to lightly battered, fried courgette flowers stuffed, not with ricotta, but goat’s cheese, mint and lemon juice, then dressed with local honey. Pappardelle is a permanent fixture, the ragu for these thick ribbons of egg pasta changing with the seasons. “My favourite is a rabbit ragu braised with spring vegetables and white wine,” says Kasia. tropea.uk Asha's – best Indian sharing dishes There’s no danger of anyone going hungry at this Birmingham institution. Be prepared for a spectacular Indian feast in the UK’s ‘curry capital’, and bring friends. Go à la carte or, if you want a taste of everything on offer, try the Asha’s dining experience. The six-course menu includes a tandoori kebab platter, a house speciality made to order. Choose from lobster tail, tandoori lamb or spiced paneer, served with all the trimmings. Tuck into bowls of creamy dhal, plates of fluffy naans and a choice of your favourite curry classics. Great for vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike, this colourful spread is the perfect choice for an elevated evening feeding a crowd. ashasbirmingham.co.uk Land – best for plant-based dining Land focusses on modern, seasonal dishes that make veg the star. The menus change frequently to reflect whatever produce is at its peak but you can guarantee whatever you’ll be served is delicious. Choose from a four- or six-course menu, complete with special snacks to whet your appetite. Expect expertly plated morsels with perfectly balanced flavours. You can also choose a drinks pairing with your menu, with each experimental wine chosen to make the flavours of your meal pop. It’s a great spot for celebrating a special occasion or simply enjoying a leisurely lunch with friends. land.restaurant The High Field – best gastropub The High Field is a couple of miles from Birmingham city centre in leafy Edgbaston. One of the Peach collection of pubs, the food is overseen by Trevor Blake and Paul Hunter-Finn with Sam Collins in the kitchen. Ingredients are well sourced, with pork from Jimmy Butler, seasonal game and a menu of pub dishes such as chicken schnitzel, anchovies and gremolata and fish-packed pie pictured below. highfieldedgbaston.co.uk Kilo Ziro – for vegetarian afternoon tea With their zero-waste refillable store, Clean Kilo, now in Moseley, owners Jeanette Wong and Tom Pell have turned the original Digbeth site into a hip bar, where biodynamic wines are served on tap from reusable stainless steel kegs, alongside carbon-negative gin and seasonal ‘waste-not’ cocktails that use rescued, surplus fruits. Each weekend, Kilo’s meat-free afternoon tea showcases the work of local producers, including Artisan Epicurean and Sunshine Bakehouse. The menu aims to strike a neat sweet-savoury balance. Before your brownie bites, chocolate and sultana tiffin or victoria sponge cake, expect goodies such as filled piadina, vegan sausage rolls and goat’s cheese, shallot marmalade and pistachio tarts. kilozirobar.com Folium – best tasting menu Chef-patron Ben Tesh’s dishes look almost austere in their sleek minimalism but never skimp on flavour, with an imaginative approach to British ingredients that makes a visit to Folium, in the city’s Jewellery Quarter, a must for foodies. The tasting menu changes daily but might feature homemade bread (using flour milled on-site) and butter; light-as-air crab tart with crab meat hollandaise and a fluffy grating of frozen duck livers; crisp-skinned cod draped in silky cured pork fat with mussels and preserved white asparagus; and blushing lamb neck and saddle spiked with salty anchovy paste and umami seaweed jus. Delicate desserts include sheep’s yogurt sorbet with aerated white chocolate, and salted milk ice cream with nuggets of cobnuts and caramelised ice cream crumbs. restaurantfolium.com Medicine Bakery + Gallery – best bakery Walk into this bakery in the city centre and you’ll be greeted with trays upon trays of baked goods, from baskets piled high with rye loaves and plump sourdough croissants to serried ranks of glossy white chelsea buns, plus brownies, cronuts, cupcakes and more. Make your selection (try the enormous passion fruit cronut – you’ll need two hands to eat it) then tuck in at communal tables in the bakery’s light-filled, grandly proportioned Victorian dining space (it doubles as an art gallery). Medicine is also a great spot for brunch, from masala eggs and falafel tartines to pesto ricotta on sourdough toast. medicinebakery.co.uk Grain & Glass – best whisky bar Forget dim basement bars, this bright, bustling spot in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter is a must visit for whisky fans. The friendly staff will guide you through the extensive library of more than 300 drams to find your perfect sip. We recommend trying the house cocktails showcasing different styles of whisky in lip-smacking combinations. For even more adventurous exploration, try a tasting flight grouping together regions or flavour characteristics. There’s something for everyone, from full and fruity sherried whiskies to smoky peated spirits. grainandglass.co Faculty Coffee – best coffee shop Mellow tunes and spare, stripped-back décor define the vibe at this laid-back coffee den inside the city’s elegant Piccadilly Arcade. Take a break from shopping (and admiring the Arcade’s hand-painted ceiling murals) and head inside for guest roasts that range from Square Mile Coffee Roasters to local Quarter Horse Coffee. Order a dinky, super-smooth piccolo and a jaffa brownie or matcha canelé (cakes and pastries are supplied by sister bakery Sixteen, next door), grab a seat by the window and people watch. facultycoffee.com Kilder – best craft beer bar Next door to Digbeth’s Original Patty Men is its hip sister bar, which combines clean, sleek interiors with an impressive craft beer offering (there are around 15 on tap and more in cans and bottles – anything on the menu is also available to take away at a 20 per cent discount). Find anything from IPAs and pale ales to porters, stouts, goses and saisons, and a brewery line-up that includes the likes of Alphabet Brew Co, Magic Rock, Northern Monk, Cloudwater, Siren, Mills and more. There are also plenty of craft ciders on offer (think the likes of Tom Oliver and Little Pomona) and natural wines, including a scrumpy-like orange wine and Austrian pét nat on our visit. Line stomachs with the bar’s speciality, grilled cheese sandwiches, including ’nduja with cheddar, Ogleshield, mozzarella, honey and mint. kilderbar.co.uk 40 St Pauls – best gin bar There’s a decidedly speakeasy feel to this multi-award-winning gin bar in the Jewellery Quarter, where you have to knock on an unmarked door to get in. Inside, discover a low-lit, intimate drinking den with a 140-strong gin collection that’s meticulously and informatively detailed in a book-like menu – gin novices will find it especially helpful. Service is attentive and friendly, and tutored gin tastings are also on offer. Go classic and order a G&T, or try the silky dirty martini, with its subtle lactic notes. 40stpauls.co.uk Tiger Bites Pig – best bao Just two minutes from New Street station, Tiger Bites Pig is all about soft, pillowy baos stuffed with moreish fillings such as peppery chicken with crispy sesame chicken skin; red-braised pork belly with pickled mustard greens, and salt and pepper tofu with fish fragrant aubergines. Choose from house-made XO sauce and szechuan chilli oil to pep up your buns (or one of the rice bowls) and wash them down with an array of Japanese drinks, from ice-cold Kirin beer, to Suntory whisky and Haku vodka. tigerbitespig.co.uk Chakana – best Peruvian restaurant Having left Michelin-starred Peruvian restaurant Lima in London to set up shop in Moseley, Robert Ortiz’s first solo project combines light and bright interiors with seriously colourful, flavourful plates of food. Kick off the meal with elegant flutes of creamily foamy pisco sours at the cobalt blue bar before feasting on classic and modern Peruvian dishes. Ceviches are well represented on the menu – try the sea bream, with butter-soft chunks of fish swimming in a zesty tiger’s milk with creamy sweet potato and crunchy, nutty canchita corn – as well as tiraditos (think Peruvian sashimi) and causas, a spicy potato terrine (order the king crab version, with potato coloured bright red with achiote, spicy avo purée and sweet morsels of crustacean). Mains lean towards hearty, from confit suckling pig with yucca root to sea bass fillet in tiger’s milk and pisco broth. Finish with Amazonian chocolate mousse and a pisco from the restaurant’s extensive menu. chakana-restaurant.co.uk The Oyster Club – best seafood restaurant A few minutes’ walk from central New Street station, The Oyster Club is chef Adam Stokes’ second Birmingham restaurant. Grab a seat at one of the luxe leather barstools at the counter and order a platter of oysters – there’s normally six different varieties on ice, ready to be shucked, with the option of having them as nature intended or with a Japanese or rockerfeller dressing. There are also three different types of caviar, served with crème fraîche and blinis. Or, of course, you can visit here without trying oysters at all. There’s a comprehensive menu of small and large plates (aka starters and main courses) covering anything from sea bass sashimi and a selection of cured meats, to fish pie with an Old Winchester cheddar mash top and a wagyu beef burger in a brioche bun. the-oyster-club.co.uk Opheem – best Indian restaurant Originally from Aston, North Birmingham, with Bangladeshi parents, Aktar Islam has made a name for himself as one of the Birmingham's leading chefs, and Opheem is his first solo restaurant. Focussing on Indian culinary traditions married with modern techniques, this is fine dining with dialled-up flavour. Choose from Herdwick lamb loin with tongue beignet and bone marrow sauce, or tandoori cauliflower with lentil bhaji and coconut milk, and curd dumpling with milk sorbet and finger lime. The room is dark with a large twinkly-light chandelier dominating the dramatic space, with brown leather chairs, cloth-less dark wooden tables and grey walls. There’s also a private dining room and a bar, where you can have small plates and snacks. opheem.com Read about chef Aktar Islam's gadget-filled home kitchen. Purnell’s – best for service and fine dining “Fine dining doesn’t have to be stuffy,” says Sonal Clare, sommelier and restaurant manager of Glynn Purnell’s eponymous Birmingham restaurant. Sonal has also curated the Book of Wine, a 25-page drinks list that includes a section of wines currently being enjoyed by the staff, as well as vintage champagnes at £3,250 a pop. “We don’t have linen tablecloths or serviettes but what we try to do is pass on the philosophy, ethos and personality of Glynn through the food and service. People see his fun personality on TV, so that’s what they come to the restaurant for.” With a Michelin star since 2007, Purnell’s has forged a national reputation for its food and service; Sonal says it’s all about adding theatre to a meal. “I don’t see a problem with a bit of romanticism or ‘va va voom’ during the dining experience. There’s nothing nicer than a smart and sophisticated waiter or waitress attending to your table, and as long as the table chat is genuine and in good nature, then everyone leaves feeling happy. Personalities are very important here at Purnell’s – we certainly aren’t robots who all look and act the same.” purnellsrestaurant.com Loki Wine – best wine bar A wine merchant and bar with its own tasting rooms, Loki has two sites in Birmingham and more than 800 wines on its list. Customers can enjoy any of these bottles on site for a nominal £7 drink-in corkage charge and Loki’s wine-dispensing machines enable the bars to serve tasters of some 70 wines, which tend to be exciting new discoveries such as bottles from Japan, China and Israel, alongside classic wines from the new and old worlds. As well as charcuterie and cheese, sandwiches and scotch eggs, Loki also works regularly with street food businesses to provide guest pop-ups. lokiwine.co.uk Baked in Brick – best pizza The 60-seater pizzeria in Birmingham's funky Custard Factory is seriously relaxed with rough and ready wooden-clad booths, tables and chairs, exposed industrial ceilings, with looming fans, and a Mini Cooper breaking through the wall. There’s charcuterie, cheese and the odd salad, but the star attraction here is the pizza. The majority are served with mozzarella and San Marzano tomato sauce, which is a good start. Beef shin ragu and wild mushroom calzone won the title of best street food dish at the British and European Street Food Awards, and its meltingly tender meat with rich sauce stands up. The dough, too, is impressive – bouncy, crisp and with plenty of flavour – and works well in another iteration, topped with goat’s cheese, caramelised red onion and grape chutney, with wild rocket and a slick of onyx balsamic. bakedinbrick.co.uk The Wilderness – best British restaurant Cooking that focusses on native, often foraged, British ingredients and a theatrical, boundary-pushing approach (don’t be surprised to find an arrangement of ants on your plate) have made The Wilderness one of the hottest restaurants in Birmingham. Book early and enjoy the ride. wearethewilderness.co.uk Original Patty Men – best burgers Cutting its teeth on the street food scene before partnering with Siren Craft Brew to launch its own restaurant, Original Patty Men serves the best burgers in Birmingham. Big Vern’s Krispy Ring is a meat patty encased in a doughnut; it sounds weird but it works. originalpattymen.com Where to stay in Birmingham High Field Town House – best boutique hotel This listed Victorian villa in leafy Edgbaston has 12 high-ceilinged, elegantly decorated bedrooms filled with antiques and expansive beds. If your budget can stretch to it we suggest opting for one of the premium rooms with roll-top baths set in front of bay windows – perfect for a morning soak. It’s self-check in (with free coffee and an honesty bar in the cosy, newspaper-filled lounge) which keeps things pleasantly low-key, and you can head next door to gastro pub The High Field for hearty, free-range breakfasts such as classic fry-ups, shakshuka, creamy mushrooms on sourdough or coconut yogurt with berries and granola (you can book either on a room-only basis or a breakfast-included basis). Doubles from £138 per night, check availability at booking.com. The Grand Hotel – best luxury hotel This imposing spot on Birmingham’s Colmore Row is an eye-catching mixture of Victorian, art deco and French renaissance style. The Grand Hotel sits right at the heart of Birmingham city centre overlooking St Phillip's Cathedral, five minutes from shops galore, restaurants and Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery. The iconic building was refurbished over 18 long years and it was worth the wait. Make time for a pre- or post-dinner cocktail in Madeleine, the stylish hotel bar. Filled with chandeliers and sumptuous wingback chairs, it’s the ideal spot for an aperitif. Try the house Madeleine martini or a punchy antique negroni with aged liqueur. There’s also a leafy green garden terrace where you can sip your morning coffee and get some fresh air. The New York-style brasserie, Isaac’s, is a mouth-watering mix of American classics, from crispy buttermilk chicken to prime rib-eye steaks. There are substantial veggie options, too, try the aubergine ‘Philly cheese steak’ with caramelised onions. Doubles from £143 per night, check availability at booking.com. More UK travel guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Words | Laura Creaven, Georgina Kiely, Tony Naylor, Laura Rowe and Mark Taylor. Laura Craven runs Full to the Brum, a Birmingham-based food and drinks blog (fulltothebrum.co.uk). Photographs | Jack Spicer Adams, Team Loaf, Tom Bird Photography, Wesley Alcorn
Get your burger fix courtesy of Britain’s finest patty purveyors, from Korean brisket burgers in the North West, to beef short rib cheeseburgers in the capital
Looking for the best burger restaurants across the UK? Want to know where to find the best gourmet burgers? Read on for our restaurant guide, or check out our burger recipes here... Best burger restaurants in London… Buster's, Brixton A stone’s throw from Brixton station is potentially the best new burger in London. You’ll find it at Buster’s, effectively a hole in the wall joint, bar a few small tables, serving up delicious wagyu beef and fried chicken burgers. The London restaurant scene is full of spots trying to claim they do ‘simple things, executed perfectly’ but Buster’s is a spot that is actually nailing it. The wagyu cheeseburger is made up of tender meat, seasoned perfectly and cooked to a juicy medium. The green peppercorn dijonaise adds a welcome acidity, and the potato roll it is all sandwiched between is soft and bouncy. The chicken burger is equally excellent, crispy, juicy and served with plenty of pickles. The IPA cheese sauce is aerated and rich, perfect for dipping lots of hot, crispy fries in. We finished off the meal with a chocolate mousse, which was light but decadent. If you’re looking for a great burger south of the river, Buster’s is where it’s at. busterslondon.co.uk Supra Burger, Queen's Park Housed as a permanent pop-up in the cosy rotisserie restaurant Cocotte, Supra does smashed burgers and it does them well. The burger menu is short and the five burgers on offer are a variation on double stacked smashed cheeseburger, to which you can add bacon or salad, or change up the sauce to make it a Supra, truffle or barbecue burger. The burgers are generously portioned but without being too big to eat. There’s attention to detail in the preparation, along with the use of high-quality ingredients, resulting in burgers that are juicy, flavourful and smashed to perfection. The fries are crisp, golden and fresh from the fryer, and a side of chicken tenders were succulent from what we guessed must have been a wet brine. As well as a choice of six sauces (the burnt chilli was our favourite), there’s a short list of desserts. We tried the Mont Blanc, which was a tall sundae of sweetened chestnut purée, vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and almonds. There’s a fair few eateries on this stretch of leafy Queen's Park and Supra is now the go-to for burgers. supra-burger.com MEATLiquor, Clapham November marks 10 years since the first MEATliquor restaurant launched. Their origins from a burger van in Peckham, to a pop-up above an abandoned pub in New Cross, couldn' be further from the latest venture — and biggest yet — in Clapham's Old Town. The huge space has two bars, a heated outdoor dining area with TVs and a large projector and photo booth inside. Everything about MEATliquor is full-on — from the graffiti-led design and the music played, to the flavours on the menu, a mix of American diner specials, all with a MEATliquor twist. Burger aficionados will point to the Dead Hippie: a French's-mustard-fried double patty with onions, cheese, lettuce and pickles all within a soft bun that soaks up the good stuff. Buffalo chicken wings are a match for any of those found in the US and the loaded fries on offer are a meal within themselves. There are a range of vegetarian and vegan options — from the Tempeh Tantrum patty to the Black Bean Chilli Dog. The drinks list is a mix of craft beers and cocktails, and that's before you hit the 'Poke For Jäger' button on your table. meatliquor.com Tucka Burger, Shoreditch Andy Gardener and Lachy Brown met at school in Australia, and both moved to London to pursue careers in accountancy and consulting. Lachy says: “We quickly realised our passion lay elsewhere, and so in July 2018 we turned to our burger truck dream.” The beef is a high-fat blend of chuck, brisket and bone marrow, which has been dry-aged for 35 days. Try the signature Tom Tucka American cheeseburger, or the vegetarian What the Tuck (beef is substituted for grilled halloumi). “Our burgers are incredibly juicy and messy,” says Lachy. tuckaburger.co.uk Hawksmoor, London This upmarket steakhouse chain also serves a mean burger – notably the £17.50 beef short rib cheeseburger with kimchi, which was launched in 2010 when the Seven Dials restaurant opened. Inspired by a trip to Seoul, it features Hawksmoor’s own kimchi, the recipe for which you can find in the Hawksmoor at Home cookbook. thehawksmoor.com Bleecker, London What started as a street-food truck by former corporate lawyer Zan Kaufman now has three sites in Bloomberg, Victoria and Old Spitalfields Market. Bleecker serves six burgers with a range of fries, including the “angry” version with hot sauce and blue cheese sauce. The patties are made with native-breed beef, and brand director Liam O’Keefe says the secret blend they’ve created helps the butcher use the whole animal. “We believe we have the best-tasting beef burger possible,” he says. bleecker.co.uk Black Bear Burger, E1 (Shoreditch) This Box Park Shoreditch operation keeps things simple with three classic burger options. Stew Down, who opened Black Bear alongside his wife Liz, says: “We don’t mess around with gimmicks – everything in our burgers is there for one reason: flavour.” Beef comes from grass-fed South West native breeds (Stew’s family are beef farmers in Devon), and the most popular burger is the Black Bear: dry-aged beef, American cheese, bacon, onion jam and garlic mayo in a super-light seeded bun. It’s the balance of flavours that sets these burgers apart – Stew says that they’re keen to avoid overpowering sauces, incorrect seasoning and unnecessary ingredients. blackbearburger.com The Wigmore, W1 (Oxford Cirus) An upmarket pub just off Regent Street and Oxford Circus, The Wigmore serves a mean cheeseburger with grilled ox tongue. It was created by head chef James Hawley, who says the idea came from enjoying ox tongue and English mustard rolls when he was a kid. The Wigmore burger also features a caramelised onion brioche bun, crispy shallots and the same melted three-cheese mix used in the pub’s signature toasties. the-wigmore.co.uk Best burger restaurants across the UK… Bunsen, Belfast Keeping it simple and using high-quality ingredients (such as Black Aberdeen Angus beef minced on site every morning, and homemade soft Amish dinner rolls) is what sets Belfast’s Bunsen apart from competitors. It’s a straightforward choice between classic hamburger or cheeseburger, the latter of which includes a special blend of comté and monterey jack. bunsen.ie Steak & Honour, Cambridge Steak & Honour (which also has mobile burger vans across Cambridge) serves three types of burger: classic, cheese and a veggie shroom. The meat patties are made with 100% hand-minced chuck beef from cattle that graze East Anglian pastures and water meadows. Nothing is added except Maldon salt as they sizzle, and Dovecote Bakery created the brioche bun recipe for them. Order a side of three-cheese mac ’n’ cheese, too, which comes sliced and grilled. steakandhonour.co.uk Patty & Bun, Brighton Eight Patty & Bun branches have opened in London and Brighton over the past seven years. It’s known for impeccable sourcing – beef from HG Walter, bespoke buns from Bread Ahead, cheese from Neal’s Yard and Kupros Dairy – and bestsellers include the Lambshank Redemption: a lamb patty with coriander and chilli, buttermilk baby courgettes, pickled aubergine, cumin aïoli and feta. pattyandbun.co.uk Hills, Brecon A mile outside the town and overlooking the Brecon Beacons, the glass-fronted Hills restaurant is a destination that attracts thousands of diners every month. Owain and Emily Hill showcase Welsh produce in their burgers, with signature options including a chips and gravy cheeseburger, sweet and sour chicken burger, and pulled pork with hoisin and soy sauce burger. Hills uses aged PGI Welsh beef from local butcher Paddy Sweeney, and cooks its burgers using the ‘smashed’ method, creating an incredible crust and flavour. Each burger comes with two 3.5oz smashed patties and a blend of monterey jack and American cheese as standard. hillsbrecon.co.uk Blas Burgerworks, St Ives, Cornwall “Not fast, just fabulous” is the motto at Blas Burgerworks, the tiny restaurant and takeaway close to St Ives harbour. Now into its 14th year, it has become something of a local institution thanks to an unwavering commitment to provenance and sourcing. Beef comes from nearby Trevaskis Farm, Cornish potatoes are used for the hand-cut chips, and all the sauces are made on the premises. Blas Burgerworks also makes a mean vegetarian organic black bean burger, and occasionally serves a special mackerel burger using fish landed in the bay around the corner. blasburgerworks.co.uk Libertine Burger, Leamington Spa Charles Harris of Libertine Burger says that the main reason his patties stand out is the quality of the meat. It’s a mix of double-ground chuck, brisket and flank from 35-day dry-aged Angus beef, supplied by renowned butcher, Aubrey Allen. Hand-smashing the patties to order on a really hot grill lends a great crust. The Warwickshire punters also love the buttermilk fried chicken burger. libertineburger.com Squeezed, Bristol He might be cooking in a tiny shipping container on Bristol’s harbourside but Squeezed founder Alex Hayes was still crowned burger chef of the year at the National Burger Awards 2019. Signatures include the Beetlejuice (double beef patty, smoked bacon, cheese, black garlic, squid-ink aïoli and gochujang ketchup) and the Reverse Cowgirl (beef patty, smoked bacon, peanut chipotle BBQ and charred scallion soured cream). Alex says: “You can taste every element, as well as the overall flavour profile.” bristolsqueezed.co.uk Fat Hippo, Newcastle, Durham and Sheffield “Get ready to sink your teeth into something juicy,” is one tagline at the Fat Hippo, which started life in Newcastle and has since added Durham, Jesmond and Sheffield branches to its empire. The idea is indulgence, messy fingers and a full belly. The Bubba Gump burger, for example, includes a double patty, cheese, popcorn shrimp, smoked bacon and pickleback slaw. fathippo.co.uk The Beefy Boys, Hereford The Beefy Boys are four childhood friends who have always loved cooking burgers at garden BBQs. They’re regular competitors at worldwide burger championships (their next challenge in October takes them to Dallas, Texas) but, following a series of pop-ups across Hereford, the crew now has a restaurant in the city. Co-founder Murf says: “The Beefy Boys are the definition of a drunken BBQ that’s got seriously out of hand... so much so that we now own a restaurant, a food truck and an events business.” Murf puts their success down to local Hereford beef (100% chuck and brisket), toasting the bun with bacon fat, butter or aged beef fat, and seasoning. “We also steam our burgers, a tip we picked up from American diners. You spray water onto the hot plate, then steam the burgers under a cloche – it heats the bun up and melts the cheese, making the whole thing come together in a cacophony of cheesy, meaty goodness.” thebeefyboys.com Free State Kitchen, Liverpool “We serve straightforward American classics,” says Kate Hughes of Liverpool’s Free State Kitchen, whose bestseller after six years of business is still the cheeseburger (served in a locally baked brioche bun). The core menu may stay the same, but Free State Kitchen likes to use its specials board to mix things up on a regular basis. Expect treats such as the Korean brisket burger, made with locally produced kimchi, bulgogi-style beef and a crispy fried egg. freestatekitchen.co.uk Slap & Pickle, Leeds James Tabor and Zoe Perret run Slap & Pickle at Assembly Underground, a street-food hub located in the basement of a Grade-II building in Leeds city centre. The burgers are made from 100% grass-fed Yorkshire beef, and showcase a signature blend of chuck, short rib and clod. James says: “We can serve every item on our menu in meaty, veggie or vegan incarnations, and we make all of it ourselves. We don’t buy ‘science-lab fake meats’, because they’re all horrible.” slapandpickle.co.uk Big Boys, Folkestone Brothers Gareth Attwell and Guy Meurice launched Big Boys in 2014, and have made it to the finals of the National Burger Awards twice since then. Chef Gareth worked in top-end restaurants for 16 years, including spells with Marcus Wareing. The burgers are made with local rare-breed beef (matured for 28 days) and French brioche buns (or even mac ’n’ cheese ‘buns’, pictured). Big Boys are well known for their specials – try the Fat Elvis for its peanut butter, raspberry jelly and bacon jam. bigboysburgers.co.uk El Perro Negro, Glasgow Nick Watkins started El Perro Negro as a kitchen takeover pop-up, but it became such a hit with Glasgow burger fans that it was a permanent restaurant by 2018 (and winner at the National Burger Awards 2019). Using beef from small local farms, specials include the Top Dog, with bone marrow and roquefort butter, bacon and black truffle mayo, and the Black Dog, which adds black pudding to the mix. Nick says: “We don’t attempt to reinvent the wheel, we just use great beef, great bread and great ingredients. Our short rib and marrow patty gives a super juicy burger, with a really intense bovine flavour. The beef should be the star of the show. Anything that goes on the patty is there to complement the beef, not drown it out.” @ElPerroNegroGLA Magu, Bath Magu founder Leon Dunnett makes his own sauces and serves fantastic smashed beef patties in bespoke buns. But his Bath diner has also gained a formidable reputation for the veggie burger with Somerset-made halloumi, roasted Mediterranean vegetables, pickled red onion and mint yogurt. magudiner.com Meat:Stack, Newcastle Following pop-ups around Newcastle, Meat:Stack found a permanent home in the city’s Grainger Market. Its American cheeseburgers are the stuff of legend, especially the Cease and Desist (made with rare-breed dry-aged beef, smoked bacon, mascarpone and black garlic honey). “We are obsessive about simplicity and clarity of flavour,” says co-founder Tom Westman. The beef is cooked on a searing hot grill, then steamed, and you should order a portion of beef dripping fries on the side. meat-stack.com Honest Burgers, across the UK With more than 30 sites across the UK, Honest Burgers has a point of difference from other chains – it’s heavily invested in its own butchery, with each restaurant making burgers from scratch. Co-founder Tom Barton says: “From day one we’ve made the majority of our menu in-house, starting with chips, relish, pickles and sauces. By having our own butchery, we now know exactly where our beef comes from. We also love working with nearby suppliers, whether it’s for a local burger (every branch of Honest has one) or a local brewery.” honestburgers.co.uk Hoof, Cardiff Sibling business to Cardiff’s Dusty Knuckle Pizza, Hoof has a permanent residency at the city’s Sticky Fingers street-food market in the Brewery Quarter. It serves a 100% Welsh beef featherblade patty with Teifi cheese, pickles, cultured cream and sweet chilli herb sauce. One of the secrets of their success, according to owner Phil Lewis, is the fact award-winning Hay-on-Wye baker Alex Gooch provides the buns. “Alex’s organic challah buns are slightly spongy and a bit crusty. They hold together perfectly and are a great marriage with our beef patties, especially when grilled with dripping.” @hoofcdf Original Patty Men, Birmingham “Our tag line is ‘Purveyors of Filth’ and we do our best to live up to that,” says Thomas Maher, director of Birmingham’s Original Patty Men. Five burgers are on the menu, including the Pineapple Express (aged longhorn beef patty, maple-coated bacon, lettuce, roquito chilli pepper, fresh tomato, cheddar and pineapple hot sauce). Thomas says: “Our suppliers list is something we’re incredibly proud of, and the majority supply Michelin-starred restaurants across the country. Our style of cooking is just a bit different to theirs!” originalpattymen.com Words by Mark Taylor Photographs by Justin D Esouza, David Griffen, Ed Sowerby
Pensons, Netherwood Estate, Herefordshire: restaurant review
Try cherry blossom cosmopolitans, sourdough with Marmite butter and Herefordshire Herdwick lamb at this bucolic escape
Looking for restaurants in Herefordshire? Read our review of new destination restaurant Pensons, and check out our foodie road trip guide to Herefordshire here. Pensons in a nutshell Pensons is a new destination restaurant for Herefordshire, that’s redefining the modern, rural fine-dining experience. Who's cooking? Last seen as the ground-breaking head chef of Bethnal Green’s Typing Room, Lee Westcott is back behind the pass of Pensons and making a big impression with locals. What's the vibe? Lots of restaurants talk a good talk about provenance but so integral is it to Pensons’ ethos that the (hyper) local sourcing begins right at the front door. Housed in a previously derelict 15th-century barn, the space has been dramatically restored and renovated using materials from its surrounds, the Netherwood Estate. The farm’s manger is now a lighting rig. Fabric made on a weaving mill on the estate, from Netherwood wool, forms the unique napkins. Striking bell-bottomed lampshades are made with estate-harvested willow. There are even excavated treasures, found in the surrounding fields, framed. You can find out more about the makers who helped shape the space, here. Lunchtime is worth a venture, just for the light, which pours through the stylish Crittal windows, or if you’ve a night-time booking it’s hard to resist the glow of the open kitchen. Either way you’re in for a good meal. What's the food like at Pensons? Fans of Lee’s food in London will be more than satisfied with the food at Pensons – which feels familiar yet future-looking. Ingredients lead the direction of the menus (there’s an à la carte lunch and dinner menu, alongside a five- or seven-course tasting menu) – whether they’re plucked from the kitchen garden, yards away from the pass, foraged or farmed from the estate. (There’s a pescatarian and vegetarian menu available, too, but not vegan.) On our visit there were new takes on recognisable signatures from Lee – including fish skin, crisp like pork crackling, topped with delicate dots of smoky salt cod brandade, oyster and dill emulsion and tiny, brackish sea vegetables; perfect miniature rounds of sourdough with Marmite butter and roasted yeast; and a final dessert course of flawless, palate-cleansing sheep’s yogurt sorbet, with textures of apple and dill, and a tangy meringue crisp. Flavours and textures build with every course – from mackerel with beetroot, horseradish and smoked yogurt, to brill with pine, mussels and purple sprouting broccoli. Herefordshire Herdwick lamb particularly impresses with its simple, traditional flavours – potato, turnip and greens – but elegant execution (think silky smooth purées, glossy emulsions, and potato cakes of a thousand, or so, layers). And the drinks? Seasonal guest cocktails are the thing to look out for here (we spotted a cherry blossom cosmopolitan in the spring). Otherwise, work your way through the classics, Wye Valley beers, or the crowd-pleasing wine list. olive tip Pensons is happily in what feels like the middle of nowhere so, for the full experience, it’s worth booking a stay at one of the estate’s properties – The Hyde (a Grade-II* medieval hall house that can be booked for individual bed and breakfast) or The Freeth (which is only available for exclusive use for groups of up to 18). Pensons Restaurant, Pensons Yard, Stoke Bliss, Tenbury Wells, WR15 8RT Words by Laura Rowe Interior photographs by John Carey, food photographs by Patricia Niven