Manchester’s food scene is buzzing, with fine dining to street food, hidden cocktail bars to craft beer joints. See our pick of the best places to eat and drink
Looking for Manchester restaurants? We've found the best places to eat and drink in Manchester, from the trendy Northern Quarter to neighbouring Salford. For more exciting restaurants and weekend ideas for food lovers, check out our best UK city breaks and UK's best artisan bakeries. For more foodie guides, discover the best restaurants in Birmingham, best restaurants in Liverpool, best restaurants in Glasgow and the places to eat in the Lake District. Best places to eat and drink in Manchester Skof – for Michelin-starred dining Located within a handsome phalanx of Victorian-era buildings, Tom Barnes’ debut restaurant is a suitably class act. A former exec chef at Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume, Tom deftly deploys exceptional produce (some from Rogan’s Cartmel Valley farm) across tasting menu dishes of, say, Orkney scallop, barbecued kohlrabi, apple and watercress, or miso custard, mushrooms, truffle and dashi. This is precise, flavour-forward food served with a rare polished ease in a warm, comfortable dining room. Skof was awarded a Michelin star in February 2025. skofmanchester.co.uk Winsome – for prime seasonal British produce After winning acclaim at Manchester’s The Edinburgh Castle gastropub, chef Shaun Moffat has moved across town to create Winsome, a restaurant and adjoining bar at Whitworth Locke, a hip aparthotel on the edge of the city’s Gay Village. “Thoughtful British cooking” is the tagline, with Shaun using prime seasonal produce, from Yorkshire rhubarb to Brixham crab, in multi-size sharing dishes of, for example, confit mussels and trotter on toast, pork chop with a sorrel, mustard and trout roe sauce, or whole brill with parsley liquor. These are served with European wines and, from the Winsome bar, well-executed classic and original cocktails. winsomemcr.co.uk Idle Hands – for brunch Serene, canteen-feel hang-out, serving excellent coffee and well-executed brunches including Turkish eggs with garlic yogurt, chilli butter and za’atar focaccia, and garlic and thyme mushrooms on sourdough in a fennel cream. Idle Hands’ sweet pies (think pecan, chocolate cream, banana and cherry) are much-loved, too. idlehandscoffee.com Stow – for open fire cooking When Stow opened in late 2024 its mission statement was “great ingredients cooked over open fire with very little faff”, which landed with an appealing directness. In the open kitchen at this 30-cover restaurant and bar, chef and co-owner Jamie Pickles leads the team in creating seasonal, smoke-kissed sharing plates using a custom-built grill by Somerset’s Fire Made, a pizza oven and barbecue. Dishes range from red peppers with sherry vinegar or overnight roasted beetroots, ricotta and smoked honey, to brined chicken with tarragon jus or monkfish tail in a trout roe beurre blanc. These are accompanied by French wines, neat cocktails and a discerning, modern beer list. stowmcr.co.uk Kala – for a family-friendly feast Chef Gary Usher’s northern restaurant group, Elite Bistros, creates highly persuasive, multi-gen spaces. Places cool enough for your hipster cousin and classic enough for granddad that deliver for diners of all ages (kids’ menus available). On-point dishes range from baharat-spiced butternut squash with hazelnut ‘cream’ and dill pickled cucumbers, to braised featherblade, truffled parmesan chips and red wine sauce. A good Sunday lunch option, too. kalabistro.co.uk Exhibition – for three independent kitchens in one restaurant This striking open-plan venue is unusual and unusually good. It houses both a large bar (good cocktails, DJs, 1am finish at weekends) and a restaurant where you can order from three kitchens, simultaneously. These are Baratxuri, a seriously good homage to the Basque Country, Scandi-influenced Osma, and Jaan, specialist in topped, Persian-style flatbreads. Whether having lunch with family, or cocktails with your crew, Exhibition works from all angles. Note: Jaan is a spin-off from Another Hand, a cool, creative restaurant hidden up on Deansgate Mews, and a must-visit in itself. exhibitionmcr.co.uk Slap & Pickle@Society – for food-hall favourites From the Arndale Market – home of the legendary, Mexican-owned Pancho’s Burritos – to Mackie Mayor, grand offspring of Altrincham Market, Manchester has a varied food hall scene. At Society, we can’t get enough of Slap & Pickle’s next-level smash burgers; also, Yoki’s Korean fried chicken or mandu dumplings, and Chaat Cart’s Indian dishes. The bar features a vast range of beers from excellent West Yorkshire brewery, Vocation. societymanchester.com Madre – for Mexican In its Sunday markets, pop-up events and venues such as NY-style pizza bar, Nell’s, and bakery-café, Pollen, the Kampus residential development is something of a foodie hub. Stylish, clubbable Mexican restaurant Madre is a key draw. Do not miss its slow-cooked beef birria tacos; wood-fired, pistachio-crusted lamb; and epic crispy potatoes with garlic cream. Madre exec chef Sam Grainger also runs the eclectic Medlock Canteen, across town at Deansgate Square. thisismadre.co.uk Higher Ground – for local produce and natural wines A restaurant, yes. But also in its sourcing and ethos, a model for hospitality’s sustainable future (think seasonal, heritage UK ingredients; whole animal butchery; minimal-waste cooking; natural wines). Often using produce from allied market garden, Cinderwood, chef Joseph Otway creates dishes both arresting and irresistibly comforting: an Isle of Mull cheddar tart; marinated celeriac, whipped goat’s curd and salted gooseberry; roast pork with a mushroom grain porridge. For a more casual taste of this aesthetic, Higher Ground has a wine bar, Flawd, at New Islington Marina. highergroundmcr.co.uk Go Falafel – for lunch on-the-go This corner of town (Gujarati snacks at Bundobust, the veggie-slash-vegan options at Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurant, Asmara Bella) is home to some of Manchester’s tastiest meat-free food. If you’re dashing around, Go Falafel is an essential stop. Packed with vibrant pickles and salad items, lush hummus, tahini and perfectly crisp, light falafel, its takeaway wraps are brilliant. gofalafel.co.uk Erst – for a natural wine bar and sharing plates The Ancoats side of Manchester city centre is alive with good food, from cutting-edge Michelin-starred Mana to Detroit-style pizza destination, Ramona. Natural wine bar and restaurant Erst, a chic, minimalist space with a convivial buzz, is a neighbourhood favourite of national renown. Chef Patrick Withington handles vivid flavours with great confidence across sharing plates of, for example, grilled scallops in roe and charcuterie sauce; short rib ragu with cavatelli pasta; or bream tartare, blood orange and radish. erst-mcr.co.uk Lupo – for everything Italian Tucked away on a Prestwich trading estate, about three miles from central Manchester, Nico Pasquali’s Lupo, a combined restaurant, take-out counter and bakery, is a cult favourite worth hunting out. Seated in a cosy, colourfully decorated nook of this warehouse space, you can relax over quality pasta dishes, pizzas and family recipes such as a starter of agrodolce fried peppers. lupocaffe.co.uk Nell's – for New York-inspired pizza A homage to New York pizza, Nell’s was created by Jonny and Charlotte Heyes, owners of the legendary bar Common in Manchester’s hip Northern Quarter. The foundation for Nell’s pizza – served in slices and whole 14-inch or 22-inch pies – is a 36-hour fermented dough made with Shipton Mill organic flour. Examples of its creative toppings include the Corn Supremacy (miso corn, Lancashire cheese and crispy onions with garlic and jalapeño creams) and the Funghi Jambon’s combination of roast ham, mushrooms, vodka sauce, mozzarella and oregano. Nell’s has four locations to choose from. nellspizza.co.uk Grub & Fairfield Social Club – for foodie events Hidden up Red Bank, on the edge of the city centre, Grub is best known for hosting spring-summer street food parties in its hip, upcycled beer garden. But this multiuse venue (cinema, comedy, disco bingo!) also hosts food events, from kids’ pizza making to immersive screenings of food-themed films such as Ratatouille. Nearby sister venue, Fairfield Social Club, will, this year, host cider and Italian food festivals, a regular Turkish brunch and food quiz, Mouthful, where contestants face on-stage taste challenges. grubmcr.com Companio Bakery – for baked goods and classes In addition to its original Ancoats outlet, Companio now has an attractive bakery-café in the Northern Quarter, where – as well as retailing A1 breads, pastries, savouries and coffee – co-founders Baneta Yelda and Neil Large are hosting collab events, supper clubs and baking classes. Tutorials in sourdough breads, brioche dough or cinnamon rolls will be seasoned with, for example, events where Iraqi-born Baneta explores Middle Eastern cooking. companiobakery.co.uk Climat – for wines and views of Manchester's skyline Manchester’s Climat, the second venue from Chester’s Covino team, is a wine-led rooftop restaurant, where the 300-bottle list ranges from classic grand crus (in Burgundy, a climat is a unique, prized vineyard plot), to hip orange, pét-nat or small-producer wines from less-celebrated areas. Executive chef Luke Richardson’s love of the new wave of informal, internationalist Parisian bistros informs Climat’s menu, created with head chef Simon Ulph. Signature vol-au-vents sit alongside sharing plates of, for example, sardines, salsa verde, lemon and pine nuts; tandoori quail, chilli carrot salad and lime pickle; or duck with clementine and radicchio. restaurantclimat.co.uk Rudy’s – for pizza Rudy’s is an unanimous favourite among Manchester’s foodies that has now spread across the UK. It’s a go-to place for pizza and cocktails with your pals. Pizza dough is made on site twice a day and cooked for no longer than a minute to produce a springy base. Choose from toppings including classic margherita with buffalo mozzarella, spicy nduja sausage with tomato and fior di latte, or white pizza with smoked mozzarella, Tuscan sausage and wild broccoli. The aperitivo list uses some of our favourite Italian brands to create great twists on classic cocktails – gin fizz is spiked with Cynar (a bittersweet artichoke leaf liqueur) and Disaronno is mixed with limoncello, lemon juice and fresh basil for a refreshing amaretto sour. Otherwise, go for a creamy Dolci Colline prosecco, a bright and citrusy Sicilian white or forest-fruity Puglian red. rudyspizza.co.uk 10 Tib Lane – for date night Its scale and location (two compact floors on a back street), décor (candles, wood, distressed walls) and feel (calm, welcoming) make 10 Tib Lane a date night doozy. Start with cocktails, such as the whisky and soda made using a house yogurt-washed Chivas Regal. Revived, head upstairs for on-point sharing plates of smoked trout mousse, roe and brioche toast; sea bream with champagne sauce; or sea salt caramel tart. 10tiblane.com Pollen Bakery – for 28 hour fermented sourdough With its rich, caramelised crust, Pollen’s 28-hour sourdough was a game changer when it hit Manchester in 2016. Pollen’s Kampus and Ancoats Marina bakery-cafés, both stylishly functional spaces, maintain similar standards in their stellar brunch dishes (think eggs benedict with smoked ham hock, brown butter hollandaise and crispy kale) and pastries ranging from cinnamon morning buns, made using laminated croissant dough, to seasonal specials such as light joconde sponge cakes, topped with pistachio and Yorkshire rhubarb. pollenbakery.com New Century – a slick and stylish food hall Built in the 1960s within a then-futuristic office complex for the Co-operative Group, the New Century conference centre and dance hall was a key fixture in Manchester’s cultural life, hosting the likes of The Rolling Stones and Jimi Hendrix. This now Grade II-listed building was reborn as a gig venue and ground-floor food hall. Its kitchens mean you can choose from pizza, 'Parmageddon', Japanese fusion and more. newcenturymcr.com Another Hand – for casual dining and natural wines In their slick Deansgate Mews hideaway, chefs Max Yorke and Julian Pizer marry the ancient (foraging and fermenting books share shelf-space with natural wines), and the modern – rare species of mushrooms cultivated indoors in Altrincham, for example – to produce visually dashing, highly creative plates. Think charred Hispi, pickled clams and burnt butter, or a trout tartare in a stunning smoked turnip and burnt apple dashi. anotherhandmcr.com The Feel Good Club – for relaxed & friendly brunches Kiera and Aime, the wives behind Feel Good Club, are on a mission to make spaces where people feel comfortable, safe and good about themselves. Their flagship coffee house in Manchester opened mid-pandemic from a simple aim to make one person each day feel less alone or give them a reason to smile. It also has a full bar and brunch menu with our favourite, classic crumpets on offer. Each Friday, they book out the long communal tables for freelancers and solo-workers. Look up their weekly events, you might catch anything from Plant Club, Karaoke, Juno’s Pup Club or even Miss Chief Cabaret. feelgoodclub.co Ginger’s Comfort Emporium at Afflecks – for small batch ice cream surrounded by curiosities Google Afflecks and you’ll find it described as an ‘emporium of eclecticism, a totem of indie culture in Manchester’s Northern Quarter.’ Iconic for its family of 60+ independent traders that make up the indoor market, it’s a seamless side-step into Ginger’s Comfort Emporium. Tucked in a bright corner of the first floor, it’s home to deliciously innovative real dairy, vegan ice cream and sorbet flavours you likely won’t have tried anywhere before. Chef and former food stylist Claire Kelsey has several British Street Food Awards and a recipe book, MELT under their belt, thanks to an idea she had in 2010 to refurbish an old ice cream van. Original ice cream flavours, including marmalade on toast and olive oil & sea salt, remain on the menu today. Toasted ice cream sandwiches, shakes and changing specials are also up for grabs. The mint stracciatella, flavoured with fresh mint leaves, was a perfectly sweet refresher. gingerscomfortemporium.com Mackie Mayor – for global food against a historical backdrop This 1852 Grade II listed market building is the only one remaining fully intact in the city’s historic Smithfield Market and is now home to 10 independent bars and kitchens. Its high window-lined ceiling means the space is always flooded with natural light and even when it’s busy, doesn’t feel overcrowded. It’s a great brunch spot for sharing a tray of Pico’s breakfast nachos layered with salsa roja or verde, queso fresco and topped with a runny fried egg. You don’t need to book, plus it’s dog friendly. instagram.com/mackiemayor Freight Island – for social street food, live music and rollerskating Just five minutes from Manchester’s Piccadilly station is one of the city’s latest examples of urban regeneration: a food hall in the footprint of what was formerly a freight depot, now a vibrant centre for eating and socialising. The space is packed with multi-level terraces, long benches and tables for trying diverse eats from the variety of street food joints, but there are quiet spots dotted around if you’re after a more relaxed date-night. Venture past the live music stage and you’ll find o Mayfield Park, the new green space, which opened in September 2022 as Manchester’s first new city park in 100 years. It’s 6.5 acres big, perfect for mooching around to walk off your food. escapetofreightisland.com Siop Shop – for alternative artisan doughnuts Coffee and doughnuts are the specialties here, but whatever you’re imagining, it’s better. Siop is the Welsh word for shop and this is just one of many personal, creative touches that owners, Iwan Roberts and Lucy Jackson of Blawd Bakery have curated to create a relaxed and welcoming pit stop on Tib Street. The doughnut menu changes regularly. During the Manchester Coffee Festival in November, we tried the brand’s limited edition coffee bean, ‘48hr cold proofed carbonic macerated thermal shock brioche with coffee creme diplomat injection’ doughnut. For firework night, they developed an apple compote-filled number with a toffee glaze on a lollipop stick. This is fun, delicious food. siopshop.co The Midland Hotel – for regal afternoon tea Its elegant tea room is a modern addition but the Grade II Midland has been acing the scone game since 1903. Said scones arrive with clotted cream and award-winning jams from Cheshire’s Mrs Darlington’s, amid a regal parade of sandwiches and enticing work from pastry chef, Austin Appleton. Think Valrhona dark chocolate mousse with salted caramel or raspberry opera cake with lemon grass panna cotta. The Midland’s loose leaf teas include three unique blends created with supplier Quinteassential. themidlandhotel.co.uk Wash House speakeasy – for satisfyingly secret cocktails Before Covid descended, the password to this speakeasy on Shudehill Street was reportedly, ‘I’d like to put a wash on.’ Now you book in advance, but the concept remains the same. Laundrette on the outside, cocktail bar within, the Wash House is inconspicuous to those not in the know and for those who do, an adventurous cocktail menu awaits combining a liquid alchemy full of surprises. washhousemcr.com Bundobust – for Indian street food and craft beers Bundobust is many things (craft beer haunt, Indian street food hangout, veggie restaurant) but it sells itself as a ‘beer and Indian joint’. The basement bar is filled with casual, communal tables that encourage interaction with fellow punters, and has a relaxed order-at-the-bar system that keeps the crowd mingling. The food menu is all about vegetarian Indian street food. We suggest opting for one of the combos that arrive on wooden trays – a modern twist on the thali. Plant-based are filled with paneer and mushroom tikka skewers marinated in yogurt curd, crisp onion, broccoli and kale bhajis spiced with fennel, and tarka lentil dhal to mop up with deep fried bhatura flatbread. Our highlight was the bundo chat – layers of crisp samosa, sweet-and-sour tamarind and frilly little crunchy bits on top. Beers include collaborations with Leeds brewery Northern Monk and several Manchester breweries (see some of the best in the Beermoth section below). There’s simple house chai for a booze-free option, though you can add a dash of bourbon or cognac if you’re after more of a kick. bundobust.com Federal – for leisurely brunch This popular antipodean cafe drags loyal Northern Quarter locals out of bed at the weekend for its epic brunches. Emily’s homemade banana bread is treacly and dark, spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg with a fragrant vanilla mascarpone. If you’re really hungry, the hefty French toast is very popular, laden with homemade summer berry compote, almonds, whipped vanilla mascarpone and salted caramel; while corn fritters with a choice of toppings make a worthy savoury choice. Federal’s owners are committed to excellent sourcing, with sourdough bread brought in from Lovingly Artisan in the Lake District, and coffee carted up from London’s Ozone Coffee Roasters (try a signature espresso martini made with vanilla infused vodka and Ozone espresso). It’s a lovely spot to spend a few hours – above wooden floorboards mustard banquettes hug two sides of the almost triangular corner room, and lush green plants spill out of tiny hanging pots. federalcafe.co.uk El Gato Negro – for stylish small plates This upmarket tapas restaurant opened in 2016 and quickly gained a reputation as Manchester’s go-to spot for a splash-out dinner, and now has a branch in Liverpool too. Set over three storeys of a converted townhouse, there are plenty of choices when it comes to seating – a ground floor bar framed with shiny black tiles and seats that spill out onto the pavement, and red leather stools overlooking the open kitchen on the first floor, allowing punters to inhale aromas from the Josper grill. Then there’s el Gato Negro’s trump card, a swish rooftop dining area, complete with sliding roof, where you can enjoy a glass of fresh and fruity Albariño wine from Galicia. The restaurant’s small plates menu sees chefs adding modern twists to traditional tapas dishes. Though we thought some additions weren’t needed (Galician octopus, for example, was so soft and beautifully finished on the Josper grill that it didn’t need the punchy pickled shallots), other dishes really shone – long, slim heritage carrots were drenched in walnut pesto, miso and aubergine purée, while croquettas entailed an extra cheesy béchamel encased in crisp breadcrumbs. elgatonegrotapas.com Bunsik – for Korean street food A viral sensation in London, Bunsik’s Korean-style corn dogs have now landed in Piccadilly Gardens. These crispy, deep-fried skewers of battered, crumbed chicken sausage (with the option of added mozzarella and diced fries) share a menu with Korean street food faves, including ddukbokki – tubular rice cakes in a spicy sauce – and fried chicken. bunsik.co.uk Beermoth – for craft beers by the bottle This small shop on buzzy Tib Street is jam-packed with bottles, cans and kegs of beers from Manchester, as well as from the UK and across the globe. Brews from the inner city include neon-packaged Runaway Brewery (smoked porter, summer saison, American brown ale), Track Brewing Co. (visit its weekly brew tap events under the arches of Picadilly), and Cloudwater (which has gained a global reputation over the past few of years). The friendly staff sure know their porters from their DIPAs, so make sure you pick their brains. We came across a fab new favourite from Northern Ireland after describing our preferences. beermoth.co.uk Adam Reid at The French – for fine dining Hidden behind a curtain in a corner of the grand lobby of the Midland Hotel, there’s more than a feel of Alice in Wonderland as you are transported through mirrored doors into the dining room of The French. Soft grey and sage green tones give everything a muted luxurious feel and there are two huge cylindrical chandeliers which throw light back and forth via the mirrored panelling around the room. Chef Adam Reid’s cooking is inventive and playful but executed with real precision and flair. When we visited, a nibble of the creamiest smoked cod roe with puffy squid ink wafers kicked the six-course tasting menu off in style. Crispy pig’s trotter to start, proper came as fall-apart meat slowly braised in a rich deep umami soy base then breadcrumbed and deep fried into a crisp nugget, with pickled onion purée. Courses to follow include corned beef and potato hash, brill with silky artichoke and basil purée and suckling pig belly served with fermented cabbage and punchy cherry sauce. Reid won the Great British menu in 2016 with his Empire apple dessert – a blown sugar apple filled with a meadowsweet custard mousse – and our incredibly pretty pud is a take on that, this time a shiny orange clementine sugar shell filled with airy white chocolate mousse. It’s a little piece of cooking wizardry which perfectly reflects the rest of the menu at this magical place. themidlandhotel.co.uk/thefrench TAST – for Catalonian cuisine Executive chef Paco Pérez, who holds five Michelin stars across seven restaurants around the world, is behind the Catalonian menu at Tast. ‘Tastets’ are similar in size to tapas, and beg to be matched with the all-Spanish wine list, Catalan gins and out-there cocktails (try vodka with apple, black garlic and basil oil). Order a couple of tastets each, then move on to shared rice platters, or the likes of Iberian pork presa and bone-in sirloin steak cooked in a charcoal oven. The décor is slick but understated, with plenty of natural light. tastcatala.com 20 Stories – for modern British with a view All-day restaurant, bar and grill, 20 Stories sits on the 19th floor of the No1 Spinningfields building in central Manchester. The modern British menu in the main restaurant showcases local produce, with the majority sourced within a 50-mile radius of the city. Herdwick lamb sits on potato gnocchi and chanterelle mushrooms, poached John Dory is served with a smart langoustine velouté and white asparagus, and butter-poached salsify is topped with burnt leeks and parsnip purée. There’s also a more casual brasserie focussing on the grill, serving the likes of Yorkshire beef steaks, grilled heritage beetroot salad, and bone marrow burgers topped with beef cheek, mushroom and an onion ring. With 360-degree views, the swish space also brings the outside in with glamorous interiors inspired by nature (plenty of wood, hanging plants, stone features). The bar and outdoor terrace is dedicated to cocktails, including the signature 20 Stories cocktail made with Tanqueray gin, vermouth, honey and herb cordial, and grapes shaken with fresh lemon. 20stories.co.uk Salut – for wine by the glass “Salut aims to be the place where you want to break bread and drink wine with your pals,” says Sara Saunby, co-founder of Salut Wines, which she opened with husband Jon in 2014. With the help of an Italian Enomatic wine preservation and serving system, Salut offers around 60 wines by the glass as well as a large range of craft beers and spirits. salut.co.uk Porta – for inventive tapas Founded by brothers Ben and Joe Wright, there are now four Porta wine and tapas bars spread across the north-west. The Iberian-influenced tapas – staples of jamón, croquetas and patatas bravas but also slow-roasted ox cheek, pickled walnuts and purple sprouting broccoli with romesco sauce – is complemented by a carefully curated selection of Spanish wines, cava, beer, sherries and vermouth. portatapas.co.uk A weekend break in Manchester Mooch around Manchester’s Northern Quarter and adjoining trendy Ancoats neighbourhood for the weekend. Start at antipodean-style Federal, and brunch on French toast laden with summer berry compote or corn fritters piled high with toppings. Work your way through the Northern Quarter’s network of shops, cafés and bars – Beermoth is jam-packed with local brews. Amble over to Ancoats’s New Islington Arena to scandi-cool Pollen Bakery to enjoy canalside Manchester tart cruffins and cuddles with Maru the chow chow. For dinner, Rudy’s is the local go-to for Neapolitan pizza and refreshing aperitivo with pals. The next day, head over to The Feel Good Club for crumpets with thick lashings of butter and jam, or Mackie Mayor for a less traditional nacho brunch beneath the high glass ceilings of the former Smithfield market, built in 1852. For something sweet, pass Siop Shop to grab an artisan doughnut before venturing down to Mayfield Park, circling back to visit Escape to Freight Island’s self-contained deck courtyard lit by strings of festoon lights for wiling away long afternoons with Pomona Island craft brews and plates from its restaurants within. For a whistle-stop tour of Manchester’s cultural and foodie history on foot and more meals than you can fit in, try a bespoke Scranchester Food Tour. Where to stay in Manchester Converted textile warehouse Native Manchester is part of the Grade II listed Ducie Street complex of serviced apartments under five minutes walk from Piccadilly station. Each apartment comes kitted out with a well-equipped kitchen, living room and super comfy bedrooms, plus the lobby doubles up as a restaurant, bar and all-day deli. There are also classes available at BLOCK gym in the basement. Studio doubles from £125 per night, check availability at booking.com Words by Alex Crossley, Tony Naylor and Mark Taylor More UK restaurant guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in the Lake District
Chester best restaurants: where to eat, drink and stay
Check out our favourite restaurants, cafes, bars and foodie spots in Chester – from pillowy pancakes to perfect pizzas, there's plenty to discover
Looking for Chester restaurants? Here are our favourite restaurants in the small city in Cheshire. The best foodie spots include cracking aubergine pizzas at Stile Napoletano, pillowy blueberry pancakes at Flower Cup and freshly made dumplings at Pierogi. Check out our ideas for eating and drinking in Chester, between the city’s Roman walls and medieval alleys… For more city guides, check out our recommendations for the best restaurants in Brighton, best restaurants in Bath, best restaurants in Oxford or our best restaurants in Margate. Jump to: A festive visit to Chester Best restaurants in Chester Best bars in Chester Best brunch and coffee shops in Chester Best food shopping in Chester Where to stay in Chester A festive visit to Chester With its Roman walls, Tudor-style buildings and ancient, ornate ‘rows’ (split-level precincts home to boutique shops), Chester always looks great. In December, the city bejewelled with lights, it feels as close to a Victorian Christmas scene as you can get without time travel, whether you’re savouring a pint in the Brewery Tap, a former Jacobean feasting hall, or exploring Chester cathedral’s dazzling Christmas tree festival (from November 24). Over 80% of the 70+ stalls at Chester Christmas Market (November 15-December 22) are run by Cheshire and North Wales traders. With a hot spiced rum in hand, you will find plenty of unique gifts. Nearby, the Makers Market is a regular meet-up for northern artisans (Sat-Sun in December). Chester boasts a multitude of big names in fashion and retail, both in the city centre and out of town at Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet. Refuel while shopping with good coffee and Hulson’s mince pies at Chalk. In the evening, head out to eat at Chef’s Table or hip wine and small plates star, Covino. Pizzeria, Stile Napoletano, and next-level tapas restaurant, Porta, are equally essential. Best restaurants in Chester Upstairs at The Grill Inspired by New York steakhouses, Upstairs at The Grill serves great steaks alongside wine and cocktails. The knowledgeable staff will explain the different cuts on the menu, and you even get to choose your own steak knife. The vibe has a moody American members' club feel, with a bar upstairs, heated terrace with a fire, and a retractable roof for dining in summer. upstairsatthegrill.co.uk Twenty Eight Serving British tapas with a focus on seasonal vegetables, produce at Twenty Eight comes from its very own farm at Field 28. The regularly changing menu is designed around the farm harvest, with tapas and Sunday lunch menus available. Our highlights were an earthy beetroot tartare and lemon custard tart. restaurant28.com The Chef’s Table – for seasonal British dishes Don’t be fooled by this tiny spot’s simple décor; The Chef’s Table creates elegant dishes from carefully sourced ingredients. The heritage tomato soup is almost too pretty to eat, while honey and lavender peaches are the perfect foil for tender salt-aged duck breast and duck leg faggot. chefstablechester.co.uk Pierogi – for Polish food Within weeks of opening, Chester’s first Polish café had established itself as a firm favourite with locals. Pierogi only does two things: hearty soups and a pick ‘n’ mix of plump, freshly made dumplings that often sell out. Save room for dessert – sweet curd cheese and vanilla dumplings. @pierogichester Try our Polish pierogi recipe here. Porta – for tapas On Fridays and Saturdays you’ll need to arrive early to bag a spot at Porta, a snug tapas bar tucked beneath the ancient city walls. Order juicy pork belly with zingy mojo verde and romesco sauce-smothered broccoli, along with a glass of dry, nutty La Gitana Manzanilla sherry. There are branches in Altrincham and Salford too. portatapas.co.uk 1539 Restaurant & Bar 1539 Restaurant & Bar (named after the year racing first began in Chester) provides an unbeatable view of the world’s oldest racecourse. On race days, the glass-fronted restaurant offers a spectacular vantage point of the final furlong. restaurant1539.co.uk Stile Napoletano Although he worked as a chef in London before opening Stile Napoletano in 2018, Giacomo Guido hails from the island of Ischia in the Bay of Naples, well known for its sourdough pizzas. Here pizzas include Neapolitan sausage, wild broccoli, mozzarella, smoked mozzarella, fresh chillies and extra-virgin olive oil. Giacomo says: “I use a blend of flours selected by myself, and my dough rises for 48 hours to offer a light and digestible pizza. I think what makes my pizza special is the authenticity, the passion and the knowledge of what I do.” stilenapoletanopizzeria.co.uk Best bars in Chester Covino – for wine and small plates You won’t find sauvignon blanc on the menu at this wine bar but owner Chris Laidler is only too happy to guide novices through his intriguing array of organic, biodynamic and minimal intervention wines. Pair a crisp pétillant naturel with a plate of creamy Brillat-Savarin brie from Normandy. Originally purely a wine bar, it has evolved into a small restaurant serving seasonal small plates too. covino.co.uk The Cellar – for a pub specialising in beer An unpretentious pub, this promises 20 taps, 40 gins, a handful of real ciders and its own session brew – the zesty, hoppy Saison du Pint. Craft beer connoisseurs can order thirds and soak it all up with a handmade pork pie and pickles. thecellarchester.co.uk Vin Santo Located in historic 13th-century cellars, Vin Santo is a wine merchant and bar with an impressive selection of bottles from all over the world. There's an extensive wine list, but also gins, beers and champagnes to explore. Small snacks and cheese plates (with cheese sourced from The Cheese Shop) are available to accompany your drink. The fluid menu is constantly changing, so there's plenty to discover. vinsantochester.co.uk Best coffee shops and brunch spots in Chester The Jaunty Goat – for specialist coffee Choose between the fruity house blend or guest single-origin brew, a flat white or a V6O pour-over at this coffee shop, which takes its beans seriously, with four shops across Chester. Turn coffee into brunch with a bowl of gently spiced kedgeree or silken slow-poached eggs on sourdough (discover our guide to baking your own sourdough here). jauntygoat.co.uk Flower Cup – for brunch This plant-garlanded café is hidden away in one of Chester’s famous Rows (covered walkways on top of the street-level shops). You might come for the fiery tofu hash or pillowy blueberry pancakes, but you’ll probably leave with a cactus or funky pot from sister shop, The Violet Palm. flowercup.co.uk Kookaburra An Australian micro-bakery in the heart of Chester, this bright and cheery bakery is well worth stopping off at while exploring the city. Fresh baked goods include 'kimcheese' croissants, 'cheesymite' croissants and a goat's cheese and red onion swirl. Follow the savoury treats with Australian snacks, including Tim Tams and Milo. @kookaburra_bakehouse Best food shopping in Chester Chester Market With an artisanal bakery, sandwich bar and craft beer shop, Chester Market is rapidly turning into a foodie haven. There's a selection of street food traders to choose from – tuck into pizza, tacos, ice cream or authentic Bangladeshi cuisine, before browsing the produce traders. newchester.market The Cheese Shop If you’re in need of a picnic, or a delicious gift, look no further than The Cheese Shop, where farmer’s daughter Carole Faulkner stocks the fruit of 180 small producers. Team Mr Bourne’s 1845 (a punchy, tangy mature Cheshire) with artisan biscuits and Mrs Bridges’ caramelised onion chutney. chestercheeseshop.co.uk Best places to stay in Chester Hotel Indigo, Chester Doubles from £86, check availability at ihg.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk This gleaming 75-bedroom hotel makes a sensible city centre base. Not only are its bedrooms peppered with racecourse memorabilia (Chester’s racecourse is the oldest still in use in England) and kitted out with stylish bathrooms (complete with rainfall showers) but dining is a real draw. With Masterchef winner Simon Wood at the helm of the hotel’s restaurant, WOOD (one of three branches, the original is in Manchester with another, slightly more informal, outpost in Cheltenham), the menu focuses on dishes that celebrate local produce, be that Cheshire short rib with truffle, or lamb with Bosworth Ash goat’s cheese and lavender honey. If you fancy something more casual there’s also a separate, small plates, lounge menu (yakitori meats with crispy onion, breaded halloumi or falafel with mint yogurt), plus a choice of ‘surprise’ seasonal tasting menus (5, 7 or 10 courses). Doubles from £86, check availability at ihg.com, booking.com or expedia.co.uk Words by Claire Webb, Mark Taylor and Ellie Edwards
Get your burger fix courtesy of Britain’s finest patty purveyors, from Korean brisket burgers in the North West, to beef short rib cheeseburgers in the capital
Looking for the best burger restaurants across the UK? Want to know where to find the best gourmet burgers? Read on for our restaurant guide, or check out our burger recipes here... Best burger restaurants in London… Buster's, Brixton A stone’s throw from Brixton station is potentially the best new burger in London. You’ll find it at Buster’s, effectively a hole in the wall joint, bar a few small tables, serving up delicious wagyu beef and fried chicken burgers. The London restaurant scene is full of spots trying to claim they do ‘simple things, executed perfectly’ but Buster’s is a spot that is actually nailing it. The wagyu cheeseburger is made up of tender meat, seasoned perfectly and cooked to a juicy medium. The green peppercorn dijonaise adds a welcome acidity, and the potato roll it is all sandwiched between is soft and bouncy. The chicken burger is equally excellent, crispy, juicy and served with plenty of pickles. The IPA cheese sauce is aerated and rich, perfect for dipping lots of hot, crispy fries in. We finished off the meal with a chocolate mousse, which was light but decadent. If you’re looking for a great burger south of the river, Buster’s is where it’s at. busterslondon.co.uk Supra Burger, Queen's Park Housed as a permanent pop-up in the cosy rotisserie restaurant Cocotte, Supra does smashed burgers and it does them well. The burger menu is short and the five burgers on offer are a variation on double stacked smashed cheeseburger, to which you can add bacon or salad, or change up the sauce to make it a Supra, truffle or barbecue burger. The burgers are generously portioned but without being too big to eat. There’s attention to detail in the preparation, along with the use of high-quality ingredients, resulting in burgers that are juicy, flavourful and smashed to perfection. The fries are crisp, golden and fresh from the fryer, and a side of chicken tenders were succulent from what we guessed must have been a wet brine. As well as a choice of six sauces (the burnt chilli was our favourite), there’s a short list of desserts. We tried the Mont Blanc, which was a tall sundae of sweetened chestnut purée, vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and almonds. There’s a fair few eateries on this stretch of leafy Queen's Park and Supra is now the go-to for burgers. supra-burger.com MEATLiquor, Clapham November marks 10 years since the first MEATliquor restaurant launched. Their origins from a burger van in Peckham, to a pop-up above an abandoned pub in New Cross, couldn' be further from the latest venture — and biggest yet — in Clapham's Old Town. The huge space has two bars, a heated outdoor dining area with TVs and a large projector and photo booth inside. Everything about MEATliquor is full-on — from the graffiti-led design and the music played, to the flavours on the menu, a mix of American diner specials, all with a MEATliquor twist. Burger aficionados will point to the Dead Hippie: a French's-mustard-fried double patty with onions, cheese, lettuce and pickles all within a soft bun that soaks up the good stuff. Buffalo chicken wings are a match for any of those found in the US and the loaded fries on offer are a meal within themselves. There are a range of vegetarian and vegan options — from the Tempeh Tantrum patty to the Black Bean Chilli Dog. The drinks list is a mix of craft beers and cocktails, and that's before you hit the 'Poke For Jäger' button on your table. meatliquor.com Tucka Burger, Shoreditch Andy Gardener and Lachy Brown met at school in Australia, and both moved to London to pursue careers in accountancy and consulting. Lachy says: “We quickly realised our passion lay elsewhere, and so in July 2018 we turned to our burger truck dream.” The beef is a high-fat blend of chuck, brisket and bone marrow, which has been dry-aged for 35 days. Try the signature Tom Tucka American cheeseburger, or the vegetarian What the Tuck (beef is substituted for grilled halloumi). “Our burgers are incredibly juicy and messy,” says Lachy. tuckaburger.co.uk Hawksmoor, London This upmarket steakhouse chain also serves a mean burger – notably the £17.50 beef short rib cheeseburger with kimchi, which was launched in 2010 when the Seven Dials restaurant opened. Inspired by a trip to Seoul, it features Hawksmoor’s own kimchi, the recipe for which you can find in the Hawksmoor at Home cookbook. thehawksmoor.com Bleecker, London What started as a street-food truck by former corporate lawyer Zan Kaufman now has three sites in Bloomberg, Victoria and Old Spitalfields Market. Bleecker serves six burgers with a range of fries, including the “angry” version with hot sauce and blue cheese sauce. The patties are made with native-breed beef, and brand director Liam O’Keefe says the secret blend they’ve created helps the butcher use the whole animal. “We believe we have the best-tasting beef burger possible,” he says. bleecker.co.uk Black Bear Burger, E1 (Shoreditch) This Box Park Shoreditch operation keeps things simple with three classic burger options. Stew Down, who opened Black Bear alongside his wife Liz, says: “We don’t mess around with gimmicks – everything in our burgers is there for one reason: flavour.” Beef comes from grass-fed South West native breeds (Stew’s family are beef farmers in Devon), and the most popular burger is the Black Bear: dry-aged beef, American cheese, bacon, onion jam and garlic mayo in a super-light seeded bun. It’s the balance of flavours that sets these burgers apart – Stew says that they’re keen to avoid overpowering sauces, incorrect seasoning and unnecessary ingredients. blackbearburger.com The Wigmore, W1 (Oxford Cirus) An upmarket pub just off Regent Street and Oxford Circus, The Wigmore serves a mean cheeseburger with grilled ox tongue. It was created by head chef James Hawley, who says the idea came from enjoying ox tongue and English mustard rolls when he was a kid. The Wigmore burger also features a caramelised onion brioche bun, crispy shallots and the same melted three-cheese mix used in the pub’s signature toasties. the-wigmore.co.uk Best burger restaurants across the UK… Bunsen, Belfast Keeping it simple and using high-quality ingredients (such as Black Aberdeen Angus beef minced on site every morning, and homemade soft Amish dinner rolls) is what sets Belfast’s Bunsen apart from competitors. It’s a straightforward choice between classic hamburger or cheeseburger, the latter of which includes a special blend of comté and monterey jack. bunsen.ie Steak & Honour, Cambridge Steak & Honour (which also has mobile burger vans across Cambridge) serves three types of burger: classic, cheese and a veggie shroom. The meat patties are made with 100% hand-minced chuck beef from cattle that graze East Anglian pastures and water meadows. Nothing is added except Maldon salt as they sizzle, and Dovecote Bakery created the brioche bun recipe for them. Order a side of three-cheese mac ’n’ cheese, too, which comes sliced and grilled. steakandhonour.co.uk Patty & Bun, Brighton Eight Patty & Bun branches have opened in London and Brighton over the past seven years. It’s known for impeccable sourcing – beef from HG Walter, bespoke buns from Bread Ahead, cheese from Neal’s Yard and Kupros Dairy – and bestsellers include the Lambshank Redemption: a lamb patty with coriander and chilli, buttermilk baby courgettes, pickled aubergine, cumin aïoli and feta. pattyandbun.co.uk Hills, Brecon A mile outside the town and overlooking the Brecon Beacons, the glass-fronted Hills restaurant is a destination that attracts thousands of diners every month. Owain and Emily Hill showcase Welsh produce in their burgers, with signature options including a chips and gravy cheeseburger, sweet and sour chicken burger, and pulled pork with hoisin and soy sauce burger. Hills uses aged PGI Welsh beef from local butcher Paddy Sweeney, and cooks its burgers using the ‘smashed’ method, creating an incredible crust and flavour. Each burger comes with two 3.5oz smashed patties and a blend of monterey jack and American cheese as standard. hillsbrecon.co.uk Blas Burgerworks, St Ives, Cornwall “Not fast, just fabulous” is the motto at Blas Burgerworks, the tiny restaurant and takeaway close to St Ives harbour. Now into its 14th year, it has become something of a local institution thanks to an unwavering commitment to provenance and sourcing. Beef comes from nearby Trevaskis Farm, Cornish potatoes are used for the hand-cut chips, and all the sauces are made on the premises. Blas Burgerworks also makes a mean vegetarian organic black bean burger, and occasionally serves a special mackerel burger using fish landed in the bay around the corner. blasburgerworks.co.uk Libertine Burger, Leamington Spa Charles Harris of Libertine Burger says that the main reason his patties stand out is the quality of the meat. It’s a mix of double-ground chuck, brisket and flank from 35-day dry-aged Angus beef, supplied by renowned butcher, Aubrey Allen. Hand-smashing the patties to order on a really hot grill lends a great crust. The Warwickshire punters also love the buttermilk fried chicken burger. libertineburger.com Squeezed, Bristol He might be cooking in a tiny shipping container on Bristol’s harbourside but Squeezed founder Alex Hayes was still crowned burger chef of the year at the National Burger Awards 2019. Signatures include the Beetlejuice (double beef patty, smoked bacon, cheese, black garlic, squid-ink aïoli and gochujang ketchup) and the Reverse Cowgirl (beef patty, smoked bacon, peanut chipotle BBQ and charred scallion soured cream). Alex says: “You can taste every element, as well as the overall flavour profile.” bristolsqueezed.co.uk Fat Hippo, Newcastle, Durham and Sheffield “Get ready to sink your teeth into something juicy,” is one tagline at the Fat Hippo, which started life in Newcastle and has since added Durham, Jesmond and Sheffield branches to its empire. The idea is indulgence, messy fingers and a full belly. The Bubba Gump burger, for example, includes a double patty, cheese, popcorn shrimp, smoked bacon and pickleback slaw. fathippo.co.uk The Beefy Boys, Hereford The Beefy Boys are four childhood friends who have always loved cooking burgers at garden BBQs. They’re regular competitors at worldwide burger championships (their next challenge in October takes them to Dallas, Texas) but, following a series of pop-ups across Hereford, the crew now has a restaurant in the city. Co-founder Murf says: “The Beefy Boys are the definition of a drunken BBQ that’s got seriously out of hand... so much so that we now own a restaurant, a food truck and an events business.” Murf puts their success down to local Hereford beef (100% chuck and brisket), toasting the bun with bacon fat, butter or aged beef fat, and seasoning. “We also steam our burgers, a tip we picked up from American diners. You spray water onto the hot plate, then steam the burgers under a cloche – it heats the bun up and melts the cheese, making the whole thing come together in a cacophony of cheesy, meaty goodness.” thebeefyboys.com Free State Kitchen, Liverpool “We serve straightforward American classics,” says Kate Hughes of Liverpool’s Free State Kitchen, whose bestseller after six years of business is still the cheeseburger (served in a locally baked brioche bun). The core menu may stay the same, but Free State Kitchen likes to use its specials board to mix things up on a regular basis. Expect treats such as the Korean brisket burger, made with locally produced kimchi, bulgogi-style beef and a crispy fried egg. freestatekitchen.co.uk Slap & Pickle, Leeds James Tabor and Zoe Perret run Slap & Pickle at Assembly Underground, a street-food hub located in the basement of a Grade-II building in Leeds city centre. The burgers are made from 100% grass-fed Yorkshire beef, and showcase a signature blend of chuck, short rib and clod. James says: “We can serve every item on our menu in meaty, veggie or vegan incarnations, and we make all of it ourselves. We don’t buy ‘science-lab fake meats’, because they’re all horrible.” slapandpickle.co.uk Big Boys, Folkestone Brothers Gareth Attwell and Guy Meurice launched Big Boys in 2014, and have made it to the finals of the National Burger Awards twice since then. Chef Gareth worked in top-end restaurants for 16 years, including spells with Marcus Wareing. The burgers are made with local rare-breed beef (matured for 28 days) and French brioche buns (or even mac ’n’ cheese ‘buns’, pictured). Big Boys are well known for their specials – try the Fat Elvis for its peanut butter, raspberry jelly and bacon jam. bigboysburgers.co.uk El Perro Negro, Glasgow Nick Watkins started El Perro Negro as a kitchen takeover pop-up, but it became such a hit with Glasgow burger fans that it was a permanent restaurant by 2018 (and winner at the National Burger Awards 2019). Using beef from small local farms, specials include the Top Dog, with bone marrow and roquefort butter, bacon and black truffle mayo, and the Black Dog, which adds black pudding to the mix. Nick says: “We don’t attempt to reinvent the wheel, we just use great beef, great bread and great ingredients. Our short rib and marrow patty gives a super juicy burger, with a really intense bovine flavour. The beef should be the star of the show. Anything that goes on the patty is there to complement the beef, not drown it out.” @ElPerroNegroGLA Magu, Bath Magu founder Leon Dunnett makes his own sauces and serves fantastic smashed beef patties in bespoke buns. But his Bath diner has also gained a formidable reputation for the veggie burger with Somerset-made halloumi, roasted Mediterranean vegetables, pickled red onion and mint yogurt. magudiner.com Meat:Stack, Newcastle Following pop-ups around Newcastle, Meat:Stack found a permanent home in the city’s Grainger Market. Its American cheeseburgers are the stuff of legend, especially the Cease and Desist (made with rare-breed dry-aged beef, smoked bacon, mascarpone and black garlic honey). “We are obsessive about simplicity and clarity of flavour,” says co-founder Tom Westman. The beef is cooked on a searing hot grill, then steamed, and you should order a portion of beef dripping fries on the side. meat-stack.com Honest Burgers, across the UK With more than 30 sites across the UK, Honest Burgers has a point of difference from other chains – it’s heavily invested in its own butchery, with each restaurant making burgers from scratch. Co-founder Tom Barton says: “From day one we’ve made the majority of our menu in-house, starting with chips, relish, pickles and sauces. By having our own butchery, we now know exactly where our beef comes from. We also love working with nearby suppliers, whether it’s for a local burger (every branch of Honest has one) or a local brewery.” honestburgers.co.uk Hoof, Cardiff Sibling business to Cardiff’s Dusty Knuckle Pizza, Hoof has a permanent residency at the city’s Sticky Fingers street-food market in the Brewery Quarter. It serves a 100% Welsh beef featherblade patty with Teifi cheese, pickles, cultured cream and sweet chilli herb sauce. One of the secrets of their success, according to owner Phil Lewis, is the fact award-winning Hay-on-Wye baker Alex Gooch provides the buns. “Alex’s organic challah buns are slightly spongy and a bit crusty. They hold together perfectly and are a great marriage with our beef patties, especially when grilled with dripping.” @hoofcdf Original Patty Men, Birmingham “Our tag line is ‘Purveyors of Filth’ and we do our best to live up to that,” says Thomas Maher, director of Birmingham’s Original Patty Men. Five burgers are on the menu, including the Pineapple Express (aged longhorn beef patty, maple-coated bacon, lettuce, roquito chilli pepper, fresh tomato, cheddar and pineapple hot sauce). Thomas says: “Our suppliers list is something we’re incredibly proud of, and the majority supply Michelin-starred restaurants across the country. Our style of cooking is just a bit different to theirs!” originalpattymen.com Words by Mark Taylor Photographs by Justin D Esouza, David Griffen, Ed Sowerby
Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about restaurants as a food pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?* We review the new Allerton branch of the much loved Maray in the heart of Liverpool's independent quarter
The pro Tony Naylor is a Manchester-based journalist who writes regularly for olive as well as Restaurant magazine and The Guardian. The punter Pamela Quinn is a beauty and massage therapist who lives in Wallasey, Wirral. She eats out twice a week and her favourite restaurant meal was at The Baltic Social in Liverpool. This is the second branch of Liverpool’s much-loved Maray – the first opened in 2014 on Bold Street, in the heart of the city’s independent quarter. It’s new bigger sister, in the more suburban area of Allerton, has more covers over two floors: the interior look, with beautiful marble-topped bars and an open kitchen, was designed by local architects Harrison Stringfellow. Executive chef Sam Grainger’s menu is split into snacks (bowls of nocellara olives, goat’s cheese with cardamom and honey), sides and mains, and there’s a seriously good selection of vegetarian options. Try sprouts with medjool dates and lime; artichoke with miso and coconut; or a mezze plate of falafel, hummus and all the trimmings. Otherwise, experiment with octopus and pomegranate molasses; crab with bisque; or buttermilk chicken with plums and tarragon. For a cocktail, try chai old fashioned, made from chai-infused bourbon, wild flower honey and Angoustura bitters. maray.co.uk Our pro says... If Yotam Ottolenghi is a prophet from the Holy Land (and he is), Maray is a true disciple. This Liverpool crew is spreading the Levantine food gospel both in the city centre, at its dark and boozy Bold Street den, and now at this larger, suburban Allerton Road spot. It has an open-kitchen and hip music, but the smarter, brighter Maray 2.0 feels comparatively grown-up. The service is all smiles, gracious tasters (of surprisingly good zesty, mineral Cypriot white wine, Tsiakkas Xynisteri), and the only real cock-up – the wrong salad – is ably rectified. We’re given it on the house and the right dish arrives promptly. *I was not recognised. Our server looked a bit taken aback when I asked to order in waves, but it’s wise. Maray isn’t immune to the curse of the small plate restaurant: everything suddenly arriving at once. Rather than speed-eat from a crowded table, we wanted to linger over this food. Supposedly airy ‘whipped’ goat’s cheese was, in fact, far too dense for the accompanying shards of deep-fried flatbread. A dish of salt-baked beetroot with orange and smoked blue cheese was a funky experiment I’m not keen to repeat. But, otherwise, the 10 plates we meandered through ranged from good – elegantly spiced kofta; yielding scallops with burnt spring onion sauce – to real keepers. Those highlights included the steak with baba ganoush and preserved lemon. This is food of big and punchy, complementary flavours. Truffle oil-dressed raw tuna interleaved with hard-fried beetroot crisps and lardo (cured pork fat), was no less bold. The tuna is effectively a delicate palate-cleanser for the more guttural, salty elements on the plate. The star of the show, however, is Maray’s half cauliflower: cooked in turmeric water then deep-fried, its interior is sweetly vegetal and its surface deliciously meaty. Slathered in harissa, herb oil, tahini and pomegranate, it delivers kaleidoscopic flavours. THE BOTTOM LINE This is not an experience of the greatest finesse. Flavours are huge (and occasionally go awry), the tables are tightly-packed and Maray’s bright staff are busy. But minor gripes aside (the beer menu is poor), this is pretty much everything I want from a neighbourhood restaurant in 2017. Total for two, excluding service: £103 Food: 7/10 Service: 8/10 Vibe: 7/10 TOTAL: 22/30 Our punter says… Our greeting at Maray was a little flat and the timings weren’t great. For example, we were told about the unavailability of certain dishes too late (when we were about to order), and the wine recommendations came after we’d already ordered a bottle – once more too late for our purposes. Maray has a small plates menu and most of the dishes – lamb prosciutto, duck egg edamame wasabi – sounded intriguing to our table of three. Plus the prices were so reasonable that we didn’t hold back on ordering, picking snacks and sides to go alongside our mains. But don’t be fooled – despite the cost, portions are extremely generous. Deep-fried whitebait was crispy, delicious and plentiful. The half cauliflower with flaked almonds, pomegranate, tahini, yogurt and harissa was an absolute delight (perfectly cooked, wonderful flavour combinations with creamy, well-balanced hummus), and we all enjoyed the falafel sharer from the vegetarian mains menu – it came with yet more of that velvety hummus, tabbouleh, house pickles and flatbread. Unfortunately, the scallops, served with burnt spring onions, were overcooked and in our opinion didn’t need the accompanying yuzu or milk. The duck egg, edamame, wasabi and za’atar had no discernible wasabi and I didn’t like the cold sous-vide egg yolk. We had far more luck with the tuna (light and perfectly seasoned) accompanied by white truffle, potatoes, mushroom and lardo; a well-executed dish and my favourite of the night. Likewise the smoked duck, golden raisins and pickled aubergine was perfectly pink and juicy inside, but the raisins made the dish too sweet for me – I couldn’t detect any aubergine. Our table shared a dessert, which left us wanting. Baklava consisted of charred pastry, layers of roasted carrot and oversweet raisins; for me, a disappointing mock-up of a classic dessert. Wine was surprisingly expensive in comparison to the cost of the food. THE BOTTOM LINE Liverpool is awash with excellent independent restaurants, so Maray needs to up its game a little. Inconsistent food, only four beer choices and overpriced wine could all be improved. I would pop in at lunchtime, but it’s not a dinner venue for me just yet. Total for three, excluding service: £141.90 Food: 6/10 Service: 6/10 Vibe: 7/10 TOTAL: 19/30 Maray's Food Made Good rating: 6/10 Maray’s menu features an inviting range of seasonal veg, including the cauliflower and beetroot eaten by the reviewers. The beef and lamb chosen by the pro and punter are both sourced from farms in the Lake District a short distance up the M6 from the Merseyside restaurant. And if you followed their lead and picked the scallops you’d be reassured to know they are hand-dived – not dredged – from Scottish waters. The one question mark left hanging over the provenance of Maray’s ingredients is the tuna. We established that it’s from Sri Lanka, but not how it was caught or what sub-species it is. With such a wide variety of seafood available from British waters, there are so many other sustainable options to choose from. British food lovers will be cheered by the organic whipped goat and smoked blue cheese on offer. Good to see that for those not tempted by meat, fish or dairy, there’s a vegan menu. And if you want to leave the restaurant with a smile on your face and a warm feeling inside, go for lunch and £2 goes to Share Your Lunch a local charity providing meals for people in need. Images by Hannah Cassidy
Manchester House: restaurant review | Tony Naylor
Read our unique review of Manchester House in Manchester, from the viewpoint of both a professional reviewer, Tony Naylor, and a regular punter.
Does an average diner reach the same conclusions about restaurants as a food pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?* Tony Naylor and reader Suzanne Stockton-Lappage compare notes on Manchester House. the pro Tony Naylor is a Manchester-based journalist who regularly writes for Olive, as well as Restaurant magazine and The Guardian. You’ll also find him blogging online for The Guardian’s Word of Mouth. the punter Suzanne Stockton- Lappagelives in Chorlton, Manchester. Her favourite food is modern Indian and her best eating out experience was at QuoVadis in Soho, in particular the rabbit pie and calves’ liver. Aiden Byrne was, at 22, the youngest chef in Britain to be awarded a Michelin Star while working as head chef at Adlard’s in Norwich. His latest venture, Manchester House, opened in October, with a view to turning out more Michelin-quality cooking. The industrial space, in Tower 12 of Manchester’s Spinningfields development, is split into a lounge with an impressive terrace and views on level 12 and the informal but ultra-modern restaurant on level two. The tasting menu is the most expensive in the city, but comes with theatrics such as dry ice and spheres of sauce. There’s an open plan kitchen, with a six-seater chef ’s table that puts the diner in the heart of the action. the service the pro With its quirky terrace and its bold, post- industrial design, Manchester House feels pretty radical. Certainly for a ‘posh restaurant’ chasing a Michelin Star. Dressed in tweed waistcoats, ties and jeans, the chatty demeanour of the well-drilled staff sets the tone for a less formal, warmly Northern experience. However, as with the food, there is still too much fayn dayning faff (napkins draped in laps; wine parked remotely and poured for you). *I wasn’t recognised. the punter On our arrival, we were invited for canapés in the 12th floor bar. However, we were left in the bar for an hour and had to ask several times to be taken to the restaurant on the 2nd floor. Once in, after a ‘Hi’ from Aiden Byrne himself, service was friendly. The menu was explained well. My husband asked the waiter to choose wines to go with the dishes, and he made inspired selections. the food the pro Once Britain’s youngest Michelin star chef, Aiden Byrne can cook, no question. Personally, I don’t think the tropical fruit element of his prawn cocktail (a Great British Menu winner) is sharp enough to counter-balance its powdered seafood base. And there were small technical flaws. But these were minor gripes, amid much pleasure. Byrne’s fire-roasted lamb was terrific, smoked to the bone, but subtly. Tenderfrogs’ legs kiev in panko crumbs, burst with buttery garlic flavour.The steak in Byrne’s ale pie was profoundly beefy. Its salad of capers, heritage carrots and veal tongue delivered a lovely interplay of pickled, vegetal and mineral flavours. Yet, despite all this nice food, two thoughts nagged at me. Firstly, none of it made me do that startled double-take.Secondly, for all the menu’s refreshing straight- talking, there is less candour on the plate. That steak ‘pie’ is, in fact, pastry-less. The base is mash, the case a potato ring, the top an espuma (foam). It’s clever, but is it better than an actual pie? No. Likewise, the lamb dish is served across two plates: the meat and a bowl of broth with faggots and gnocchi. Do you combine the two? If so, how?They aren’t entirely satisfying individually. The menu promises gutsy British food. Broadly, it delivers, but it does so in spite of Byrne’s tendency to reconstruct dishes and equally dated theatrical flourishes, such as lamb served with a smouldering ember or prawn cocktail under a frozen dome of its sauce. the punter There are lots of expensive options here: for a start, the full 12-course tasting menu is the most expensive in Manchester. There is also the à la carte, as well as a two, three or six course lunch menu. I had the six-course taster, with the wine flight to match. While all my wines were well- matched, none were particularly imaginative. My husband ate from the à la carte. Bread was a mini brioche with pea butter and juice, very refreshing and a great palate cleanser. My first starter, lobster with borlotti beans and grilled lettuce, was sweet and meaty, the charred lettuce adding texture and smokiness. The best dish I ate was a rabbit ballotine with carrot lasagne sheets giving added crunch. The meat was rich, with a deep flavour. My husband opted for frog’s legs kiev. Some were covered with fermented black garlic, some plain, but all were really punchy. My John Dory with a crab and lettuce ravioli was a touch over-seasoned, but the ravioli was made from the lettuce, with the unctuous crab meat inside – clever cooking. An accompanying lemongrass mousse however, had an unpleasant slimy texture. The suckling pig with fennel was much better, with sticky, tender meat and light-as-air crackling. The sauce had the slightest hint of fennel and held up well against the strong flavour of the meat. The star dish, though, was the rack of lamb, tender, melting lamb with a bright pine broth. We shared desserts, a disappointingly zing-free pineapple cannelloni, and a silky chocolate panna cotta which added nothing to the dish. As a final flourish we were given six macaroons with the bill. the bottom line the pro I love the space: the stark drama of the open kitchen, built right into the room; the cotton and industrial design features. It feels fitting for Manchester. If tweaked, the service and food could make a similarly clean break with fine dining’s pompous past. But, three weeks in, Manchester House felt like it was hedging its bets. FOOD 7/10; ATMOSPHERE 7/10; SERVICE 7/10; TONY'S TOTAL: 21/30 the punter Aiden Byrne brings some real technical know-how to quality ingredients. But the menu is quite broad and spreads itself thinly by trying to please too many people. Next time, we’ll go à la carte, as the flavours get a better chance to shine in the bigger dishes.The service and relaxed atmosphere are definite plus points. FOOD 8/10; ATMOSPHERE 8/10; SERVICE 7/10; SUZANNE'S TOTAL: 23/30 Manchester House Sustainable Restaurant Association (SRA) rating: 6/10 Manchester House mostly serves locally sourced meat, but it would be encouraging to see them use more free range and organic meat. Despite purchasing seasonal seafood from British waters, it would benefit from implementing a sustainable seafood sourcing policy. Social sustainability is where Manchester House excelled, though, especially through robust staff management policies, responsible communication with customers and close engagement with its local community. Written January 2014