In a nutshell
The renowned Chelsea haunt has revamped its menus to appeal to more serious foodies, whilst maintaining its buzzy, glamorous vibe.
Australian chef Matt Robinson, previously at Maze and Maze Grill, and Marco Pierre White at The Criterion, has revamped many classic dishes, adding an Asian twist.
Starters are light and colourful – flame-grilled mackerel is soaked in beetroot to give it a deep purple tint, and comes with a sweet beetroot curd, fresh apple, cucumber and radish. For a taste of Robinson’s Asian travel influence, go for thick-cut yellow fin tuna sashimi in a bath of ponzu and jalapeño dressing, topped with creamy avocado.
Vegetarian or not, the highlight of the mains was the pea and leek risotto. Charred baby leeks and garden peas that were so fresh they popped, on a bed of green risotto with tangy crumbled feta and delicate pea shoots showcased the best of seasonal ingredients. Roast Barbary duck breast was served with smoked duck leg croquette, its smokiness and saltiness was reminiscent of smoky bacon crisps. The duck was perfectly pink and soft, and came served on a crunchy bed of barley, glazed carrots and Scotttish girlies, with a light, sweet jus.
Eucalytpus parfait with Granny Smith apple, lime and honeycomb was a dessert with a difference, and, once you get over the surprising initial menthol taste, you’ll be going back for more. With just enough bite before melting into a light, creamy texture, it was the perfect end to our meal.
What’ the room like
Glamorous. Large windows look out onto chic King’s Road, and opulent chandeliers hang from the lofty exposed beamed ceiling. Though the room is large, wooden paneling divides white linen-clothed tables and cream leather seats into intimate areas. The huge bar in the centre of the room has a constant stream of well-dressed bright young things sipping on cocktails, chatting and even dancing. Along with a funky soul soundtrack, it creates a buzzy bar vibe that isn’t overbearing.
Prices reflect the area: starters from £7.50 to £16.50 , mains from £12.50 to £38.50, desserts, form £7.50 to £8.25.
By Alex Crossley
You might also like
Carousel presents Shaun Presland, London: restaurant review
Artesian bar at The Langham hotel: Surrealism menu review
The drawing room at Flemings Mayfair Hotel: afternoon tea review
I Robert, Mayfair, London: restaurant review
Egg Break, Notting Hill, London: restaurant review