Venice foodie guide: where locals eat and drink

00 39 041 522 5401

Osteria ai Promessi Sposi – for low-key dinner

For a quiet meal away from the crowds, grab a table at the unassuming Osteria ai Promessi Sposi. Order the stuffed mussels, squid-ink spaghetti, ravioli with red radicchio and fegato alla veneziana (fried calf’s liver and onions). Then finish with the molten chocolate lava cake.

00 39 041 241 2747

Estro – for a contemporary enoteca (wine bar)

With a list of more than 700 (mostly natural) wines from Italy and beyond, at contemporary enoteca Estro you can snack on baccalà mantecato (creamed salt cod), meatballs in tomato sauce and sarde beccafico (sardines baked with lemon, cheese and breadcrumbs) at the bar or try one of three tasting menus.

estrovenezia.com

Where to stay in Venice – Hotel Ca’ Gottardi

All hotels have been chosen and reviewed independently by our expert locals. This page contains affiliate links and we may receive a small commission for purchases made, but this comes at no extra cost to you and helps us to continue providing top-quality content for our loyal readers.

Doubles from £62 per night, check availability at booking.com

Conveniently located in the central Cannaregio district, in a 15th-century Venetian palace, Hotel Ca’ Gottardi oozes Italian style. Arty and elegant, the tiny hotel has comfortable rooms, helpful staff and a lounge that offers tea, coffee and biscotti throughout the day.

cagottardi.com

Torrefazione Cannaregio – for old-school coffee

Sip on a creamy cappuccino or straight-up espresso at the lively Torrefazione Cannaregio, where beans have been roasted for more than 80 years. Stock up on chocolate-covered coffee beans to take home.

torrefazionecannaregio.it

Acquolina Cooking School – for cookery classes

Escape to the tranquil island of Lido for a lesson with chef Marika at the Acquolina Cooking School. Dishes are prepared with local products and include stuffed calamari with braised artichokes, pasta with seafood, and panna cotta.

acquolina.com

Vino Vero – for natural wines

A gathering place for natural-wine lovers, minuscule bar Vino Vero stands out among the mediocre restaurants and pubs located along the Fondamenta della Misericordia. Feast on sublime cured anchovy canapés with friarielli greens, baccalà mantecato and seasonal vegetables over a glass or two.

vinovero.wine

Osteria Alle Testiere – for a fish supper

Book one of the nine tables at charming Osteria Alle Testiere, where the fish-based menu changes daily. Dine on fluffy gnocchi with baby squid, local sautéed caparossoli clams and grilled crustaceans. For dessert, ask for a tasting of the weekly featured cheese or indulge in a pear, chocolate and ricotta pie.

osterialletestiere.it

Dal Nono Coluss – for a family-run bakery

Family-run Dal Nono Colussi is the real deal. Franco (aka Nono), daughter Linda and granddaughter Marina work tirelessly making their renowned fugassa (a sweet focaccia) and krapfen (cream-filled doughnuts). Get there just after 9am to buy the latter still warm from the oven.

dalnonocolussi.com

CoVino – for bistro dining

Cosy CoVino features a three-course, prix-fixe menu packed with Slow Food produce. Its creative seasonal dishes include squilla mantis shrimp with radicchio and pomegranate, spaghetti in salsa di gò (a strongly flavoured Venetian sauce made with fish from the adjacent lagoon) and roast capon with a pumpkin purée.

covinovenezia.com

Words by Gina Tringali

Food writer Gina Tringali designs food and wine tours for Casa Mia Italy Food & Wine Tours and GT Food & Travel. High waters are a common occurrence in Venice during the winter months and can cause flooding in parts of the city. If you’re planning a trip, monitor weather updates and follow the advice of local authorities.

More places to eat and drink in Venice…

Osteria Ca’d’Oro/ La Vedova

A picturesque and historic bacaro known by two different names, people jostle at the bar here for small plates of Venetian meatballs, baccalà mantecato (creamed salt cod), sardine in saor (sweet and sour sardines), and artichoke hearts to go with their drinks.

Calle del Pistor 3942; 00 39 41 528 5324

La Cantina

With its outside tables La Cantina is worth a stop whatever the time of day. As its name (‘the cellar’) suggests, it’s a place to drink good wine and also a house beer, Morgana. Let Francesco advise you. He prepares high quality, market-driven dishes such as raw and cooked fish with crisp seasonal vegetables.

Cannaregio 3689, Campo San Felice; 00 39 041 522 8258

Alle due Gondolette

In a working-class neighbourhood far from the tourist flow, don’t miss Alle due Gondolette. This restaurant’s respectable family cooking includes baccala mantecato (creamed dried cod) and the baccala alle vincentina (dried cod with polenta).

Fondamenta de le Capuzine, 3016, 30121

Anice Stellato

Amid an elegant yet rustic setting, packed with locals and serving traditional Venetian cooking with modern influences, Franca, the chef, and her team will take very good care of you at Anice Stellato. The menu changes every day; if it’s on, definitely try the frittura of fish and vegetables.

osterianicestellato.com

Osteria Bancogiro

With its large terrace overlooking the Grand Canal, everything at Osteria Bancogiro is original and good, from eggplant-lardo-octopus tramezzini (little sandwiches, €2-5) to home-made bigoli (long, thick pasta) in salsa served with a cardoon (artichoke-like vegetable) puree (menu €35).

osteriabancogiro.it

Above words by Wby Laura Zavan

This feature was published in February 2015 and updated January 2020

Photographs by Getty Images/Maremagnum