Breakfast haddock

Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. Generously butter 4 × 150ml ramekins and put in a small roasting tin. Chop the haddock into roughly 2cm pieces and divide between the dishes.

Beat the cream with the mustard, a good grind of black pepper and a touch of salt in a large jug. Break an egg into each ramekin and pour over the cream mixture until all the yolks are just covered. Drop a knob of butter into each ramekin and sprinkle with freshly grated nutmeg.

Pour enough just-boiled water from a kettle into the roasting tin to rise ⅓ of the way up the sides of the ramekins and put in the centre of the oven. Bake for around 20 minutes or until the eggs are just set, the cream will remain fairly runny with more than a slight wobble, so try not to overcook the eggs.

Remove from the oven and check that the egg white is set by piercing one of the eggs with a cocktail stick. Return to the oven for a few minutes more if not. When ready, transfer the ramekins carefully to small plates. Sprinkle with chives and serve with plenty of hot, buttered toast.