The Richmond, the joint neighbourhood restaurant from Brett Redmond (Pavillion cafe, Elliot’s in Borough) and Margaret Crow touts itself as a neighbourhood restaurant serving locally sourced comfort food. Comfortable it is; dark red walls glow warmly at night, and the painted wood floor takes the edge of newness off the room. Oysters are ordered off a printed check list – eat between 5 and 6pm Monday-Friday and 3-6pm Saturday and they are yours for a quid each. Or start with an oyster shooter, the shell balanced on a glass or spiced tomato juice, horseradish and vodka or lime, green chilli, coriander and tequila.
Try small, exquisite dishes from the raw bar, including tartare of tuna and sea bass with fine, crisp rye crackers; then move on to starters of crispy prawns with lemon mayo (you eat them heads and all), or perfect little muffins piled with crab start the meal with explosions of flavour. None of the portions are particularly big but they deliver flavour beyond their size.
Mains include nduja spiced seafood stew; pasta shells and aioli with a large octopus tentacle draped over one side (both tender and charred); and firm and juicy monkfish with crab butter and cooked little gem. Sides include seriously good chips and a properly browned and bubbling cauliflower cheese. Afterwards choose a nicely old fashioned looking rhubarb trifle, or you could have a white negroni depending on whether it’s a school night.
Bullseye: The heavenly crispy prawns
Misfire: There wasn’t really one, but you could rack up a large bill if you weren’t careful. And portions are small if you have a large appetite