in a nutshell
Situated within the luxury Grade II* listed Talbot Hotel, Malton Brasserie has taken the place of the building’s conservatory, bringing a fresh and modern alternative to the hotel’s two AA Rosette The Wentworth Arms. With a leaner, more keenly priced menu (main courses don’t break the £20 mark), it’s the chance for locals to grab an unfussy lunch or dinner in an elegant setting. You can enter through the hotel, or via the brasserie’s own front door, and with its rustic and simple décor the whole family (children, dog, et al) are made to feel at ease.
Celebrity chef James Martin went back to his Malton roots in 2012 to set up Talbot Hotel’s kitchen, create its menu and develop the team. He handed over the reins to Dan Graham earlier this year, who is also overseeing the brasserie. Graham trained with the Rouxs and cut his teeth working for Michel Roux Jnr at Le Gavroche. In fact, you might recognize him, should he pop his head round the kitchen door, as he’s also a MasterChef: The Professionals finalist.
With access to an impressive range of ingredients from the hotel’s own garden and the many nearby independent producers, Dan puts together a fantastic display of Yorkshire fodder on simple menus and blackboards. Go for an easy club sandwich or fish and chips, Yorkshire smoked duck Caesar salad, or a whopping grilled Barnsley chop with smoked mash and salsa verde. Don’t be fooled by the laidback brasserie style, though – the flavours are special and every element has been well sourced. Bread, beer, ice cream and coffee, for example, all hark from not just Malton but across the road at Talbot Yard Food Court.
what I’ll order next time
Ampleforth Abbey cider-steamed mussels and frites, mini croque monsieur, Brass Castle beer-battered fish and chips, and the plaice, chorizo, chickpea and creamed fennel.
Starters are no more than £7.95; mains £10.95-£17.95; sandwiches £7.50-£11.50; desserts hover around £6.
Malton Brasserie, The Talbot Hotel, Yorkersgate, Malton, YO17 7AJ
Written by Claire Smith yorkshirepudd.co.uk, September 2015