In a nutshell
Joshua Overington’s six-course seasonal tasting menu at intimate French neighbourhood bistro, Le Cochon Aveugle, is one of York’s higgledy-piggledy back streets’ best-kept secrets.
Chef Joshua Overington has recently returned to York, his hometown, after a Cordon Bleu training in Paris and a star-studded career at restaurants such as Ledoyen, Paris and The Waterside Inn, Bray.
Le Cochon Aveugle offers a six-course tasting menu that rotates with the seasons to make the most out of fresh produce when it’s at its prime. Think refreshing carpaccio of octopus, 12 hour short-rib and homemade black pudding, and charcoaled crème brûlée with made-to-order ice cream and crunchy rosemary sugar. The on-trend mini canelés with a burnt-sugar crust were served with a rum-spiked banana milkshake: a grown-up alternative to milk and cookies! The bread course was delicious: freshly baked pain de campagne with beurre noisette, as light as angel delight.
The menu is set, and changes with the seasons. However, fortunately for botanical-enthusiasts, the gin cabinet is a permanent installation. We loved The Botanist gin and tonic with cardamom and kumquat syrup, that came with whole kumquats and a sprig of fresh rosemary for a refreshing start to the meal.
What we’re going back for
The intricate balance syphon coffee maker provides a theatrical end to the meal. Watch your velvety coffee work its way through the beautiful contraption, and drink with accompanying petits fours.
What we loved
You can tell this is a local favourite. A warm welcome from co-owner Victoria and a wave from Joshua in his tiny kitchen behind the gin cabinet makes you feel like you’ve been coming to this tiny, neighbourhood restaurant for years.
Le Cochon Aveugle, 37 Walmgate, York
By Alex Crossley
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